New Brass Preparation
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- VIEW MY PLAYLISTS BELOW!! Time to think about new brass! Just wanted to go through my process for prepping it...Enjoy!!
00:00 Intro
00:55 When To Consider New Brass?
01:54 New Brass Prep Process
04:23 Fire Forming Considerations
05:57 Detailed Prep Process
07:54 Final Thoughts
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New brass I always mandrel first. Why? well chamfer/debur some new brass by hand with/without doing the mandrel first and you'll immediately feel why. Those you did the mandrel will feel even as you do it and some without will cut unevenly due to being out of round. Basically I want to assure my chamfer/debur is concentric and it's not if the neck isn't round when you do it.
Case head separation is due to case stretch which generally comes from two sources. 1. any lube on the cartridge or in the chamber will cause the round to not grab the chamber on firing and this usually shows up as more bolt pressure (bolt thrust) depending how much slip there is. Basically assure your chamber is clean and dry before use and of course rounds too, no lube or oils on either. 2. would be too much headspace and of course that's mitigated by amount of shoulder bump. At 15 reloadings you're likely doing everything right, but we all need to remind ourselves of these two items so we're not getting lax. If you're bumping more than 1-1.5k then maybe back off a bit so there's less stretch per firing over the life of the brass. Basically even with annealing over the life of the case the neck should fail before you see case head separation.
As for assuring you're not impacted by separation during live fire. I also shoot 220 Swift which really are susceptible to this due to their case design and I know for a fact that you cannot always see the tell tale impending case head separation line on the outside of the case.
If you do, you know it's time to discard those cases but what about those you can't see the line? It's almost certainly there are more, just not visible outside of case.
An excellent way to tell is to inspect the inside of the case as part of our case inspection process. This is far easier to do after a wet tumble vs dry but basically use a bore scope to look for the line on the inside of the case. Do this without the 90deg end, it only takes a quick in/out operation on each case while watching the screen, you can't miss it as it will be slapping you in the face obvious if you wet tumbled and if it's got a good start you'll see the shadow even with just dry tumble. I don't do this every reload, but for any given lot of brass usually once one or more cases start to show any indication of the line on the outside, I wet tumble, inspect them all with the bore scope and toss all that have any indication of the line starting. This way I know those I'm reloading regardless of times have zero indication of impending issues. While looking inside of course look for any other issues too. Maybe there's a blem somewhere else inside or maybe the flash hole has issues, toss it and one less potential issue or unexplained flyer.
You might be thinking oh how many more could this be that only show up inside the case? Well I can tell you with my Swift cases there were a lot that showed a clear start of case separation inside the case that showed zero indication externally even after wet tumble to shiny clean and see close glasses. Some were so bad I was shocked that it wasn't showing externally. That's an eye opener!
Side note on this. Some dies can leave a mark about the .200 line that can appear similar to the impending case separation line, using your bore scope is a great way to confirm which you are seeing and if you ever do get the start of case head sep then you'll know the differences in how the two look.
Bore scopes are great, but don't over think it. They are simply another tool which can be used or abused.
As you know I'm new and appreciate videos like this one..Thanks!!
Thanks Erick!
Great info. Mighty timely. Thank you. I have 100 6.5Creedmoor & 100 6.5Grendel cases that I'm going to prep & load today for ladders on two rifles.
Hi Dub! Thanks for watching! In your previous comment you mentioned target shooting and such, so if you're not going to go out beyond say 500 yds, don't get hung up on all the SD and ES numbers, focus on your groups. A larger ES for example at 500 yds isn't going to matter as much as if you were planning on PRS competition out to 1,000 yds. Glad you're liking the content!
Removing the ejector plunger helps fire form the brass to the chamber better
Hi Justice! I've read about that and talked to some folks about it and yes, it can certainly ensure that the blowback from the initial firing sends that case head squarely back against the bolt face. Single load/shot shooters generally don't even have an ejector, so they don't have to worry about it. I've never taken the time to remove it, just lazy I guess, but I still get very concentric brass. Thanks for watching my friend!
One of the fellers at my local club does the out of box to prime, load and shoot, so he says. Runs the circuit. Just received my new dasher brass and was curious. Good info.
Hi michaellane1316! Nothing wrong with what your friend is doing...Many of the folks I shoot with do the same. But, I have see feeding issues, and in a match, I just don't want to take that chance. To each his own I say. Thanks for watching my friend!
Awesome video brother. You coming back to shoot in the scorcher this year?
Thanks CJ! Not sure of my schedule this year, but I'm gonna try! Thanks for watching another one my friend!