Ive never bought anything other than royal purple for 15 years there products and oil is really worth it. Everytime i come on this channel this man is taking it to then next level of helping out the community. Chris you Channel really does give me hope for automotive industry as far as when it comes to moral and ethics. So many bad 🍎 have permanently engraved an ideology or belief on mechanics or automotive industry that will take decades to even change a little. Keep it up bro!👊👏
Watching this in 2024. Just watched a couple other videos, yours & other mechanic channels. I appreciate your transparent testing & results - no commission earned recommendations. From the comments it seems alot of people feel the same. This video is 8 yrs old, I hope you haven't changed❣️
I think this is more of a fuel injector cleaner, which is great to restore some power. From what I read on reviews, people were happy that this stopped their hesitation issues.
Yep. It's fuel injector cleaner, not a deposit remover. To remove the deposits, Gumout Multi-use Tune-up works wonders! This test is based on bad information.
Oh yea, I forgot to mention your engine cleaning tutorials! I’m actually proud of how clean all 4 of my cars engines turned out!!!!!!! Thanks again brother!
Remember, you can't expect the fuel system cleaners to perform miracles if they've never been used on a regular basis. That's a lot of buildup over the years. Good test.
And you gotta use top tier fuel which contains detergents that help clean as you go. That was a game changer for our vehicles. My lovely Toyota would hardly go at only 50k because of gas that was only a couple dollars cheaper per tank but just let that carbon build right on up because they didn’t add the detergents that clean the system all times of operation.
I have not used anything for 160k. LT fuel trim was over 30 on acceleration. Put in Lucas injector cleaner. 30 mi later it was 5. DOn't discount what can be done.
I agree. Chris seems like a hard working guy, with the support of his amazing parents. He’s actually testing products he’s not getting paid to review, and he had me subscribe to one of my first RUclips channels by his headlight cleaning tutorials. I’ve cleaned mine, my wife’s, and my parents cars headlights with the spot on results he walked me through. You’re awesome. I also just watched the Thunderbird, you gave your mom. Much luv, your word to me, now is freaking golden! Thanks man, for doing what you do. I’m proud to say, your word means it’s weight in that “golden” description I just made! I’m stoked to do all my cars with the Sea foam line. I’m a little disappointed in the Lucas cleaner, because everything besides that one has never done me wrong. Here’s to an awesome guy, with awesome parents! Love your kids guys! My kids are my reason for living, and I hope they all end up like you buddy.
@@hammertime4257 bro, at least he’s trying. Who cares about who’s paying him. Almost all his hacks, I’ve tried, used, and have saved sooooo much money instead of paying someone god knows how much more. No hate man, but he found a way to make a living. Yea, F you Susan Wazowski! I support you totally, but to hate on him for becoming somewhat successful? Bro, then you do do it.
I second the BG44K cleaner. It's something I've noticed marked improvement on my carbed motorcycle which wouldn't idle without the choke... after one tank of BG44K, it now runs better than when I first bought it.
I am really glad you made this video, and especially the Seafoam video. I actually used the Seafoam on my Lawn Tractor to stop surging. Although it still surges it is a lot better than before. I know you are not advocating one product over another, but I wanted to report that I have had a positive result. Thanks for your videos!
I used to work for a dealership for many years. One product worked so well, it had to be diluted with gasoline because it was so powerful (unless the job called for 100%) Its called GM Top engine cleaner. You may have to ask at parts department for it, it's not expensive (maybe $6-10) a can. You can use it many ways but I seen it spayed into the throttle body over 15 minutes (with a pressured air adaptor). I would like to see how it works in your videos.
Is Chris from a different world? Seriously bro your really good You gave me confidence in fixing my own car and it’s never been running so smooth I’ve done all the fluids change and a lot more it’s running 100% good now Thank you tons Chris 🙏
Wow Chris, you broke my heart with this video.. well Royal Purple did. I'm a big believer in RP, I use their rear end diff oil, engine, transmission, and even radiator "purple ice" (for aluminum heads and water pump treatment) Hell, I haveRP Gun oil as well. My dad gave me the gas treatment a few times and can't wait to show him your un-biased video.. thx man, keep it up
Good job man, keeping it straight to the point without any BS. I wish there were more people on RUclips taking this approach. It's good to see someone with minimal resources doing solid research.
My dad who worked for years as an aircraft mechanic and for a while as a race car mechanic and currently works on a lot of cars volunteering at a seminary in texas. He suggests putting in a quart of ATF fluid to clean out these deposits. He says it works well in making cars run smoother.
I noticed a considerable improvement in acceleration performance with one treatment on a high-mileage vehicle. Remember: Royal Purple is a _fuel injector cleaner._ Sure it will scrub carbon from your cylinder but that isn’t the point.
"......I'd say it's still not as good as Sea Foam......" and that's all I needed to know since my 2001 Tacoma is due for some love! Thanks Chris, Sea Foam it is!
Hey Chris, If you wanna see results from these products, try getting an worn or a short trip runner engine and give them two bottles as in double dose, you should run these engines in highway speed conditions, as much as possible while using the cleaner, I suggest this it's due to as you describe in your vid the engine you're testing here aren't really having carbon related running issues, so most likely it isn't going to do much. Thanks for the vids
I think even the best cleaners will need at least 3 applications, in order to flush out the carbon that broke loose and deposited somewhere else. Also, the reason the cleaner pistons don't see as much result is that those pistons are not getting as much fuel. Since the cleaner is in the fuel, those pistons won't clean as well. It's usually the pistons furthest from the fuel pump, at the front of the engine that will be cleanest.
Chris Fix ,. I was smelling FUMES in my car for long months and I knew it would COST me hundreds of dollars to get it checked by a shop! I saw a video on Sea Form and I poured that stuff in my GAS tank about halfway! SeaForm really works!! I can now breathe in my car with less fumes!! Just $ 14.00 cost CURED my problems! My prayers 🙏🙏 came TRUE, thank God! And I really appreciate your tips on products and car repairs! Your a mechanic and a doctor! ⚠️⚠️⚠️⚠️
Another good one from Chrisfix. It seems like all these cleaners work to some degree more or less. What the mfgrs don't tell you is that it takes gallons of the stuff before there's any significant affect.
@@jonmo2694 fair enough I was speaking more to the fact its not really meant to clean hard deposits that are already there more to prevent the buildup in the first place
ChrisFix! Spray some water lightly into the intake with a spray bottle and see how that works! Theres a ton of people that say this is how you clean that carbon off completely. Even EricTheCarGuy says it works. I wanna try it on my 06 Mustang GT but I'm scared to do it! lol!
+Christian Neff, He already did this, he told in the end you never get a shiny piston head as from a head gasket leak :) This is the conclusion water cleans the best over time :)
+Christian Neff Water can do a pretty good job on the carbon buildup on pistons, but will do nothing for the intake valves. Intake valve deposits cause more driveability issues than piston deposits, unfortunately.
Based on each valve, having pretty substantial differences in carbon, one being completely clean, one being totally dirty, I’d probably say that that engine has issues outside of a fuel system cleaner being needed
I've been using RP Max clean since this video came out. Figured I'd share my experiences over the years for the folks that will end up here later. Vehicle 1- 2004 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L . Can't say I really noticed any improvement in MPG, but after putting in a few cans, the truck did accelerate smoother and seemed to have a little bit more bottom end power. Vehicle 2- 2015 Ford Taurus SHO 3.5L EcoBoost. I didn't notice any good or bad with using Max Clean. The vehicle already ran fine with no issues. it just didn't seem worth the money with this specific vehicle. It's worth noting that the 3.5L EB is a direct injection engine, so the valves never got fuel+Max Clean sprayed on them. Vehicle 3- 2020 Nissan Murano 3.5L V6. This was when Iearned that Max Clean is best used before heading out on a road trip. I noticed the car did idle and accelerate smoother after a 3.5 hour drive with Max Clean. There were way too many variables on these trips (construction closures, stop and go driving due to accidents, weather, etc.) for me to say anything about fuel economy. Only paying $20 for noticeably smoother idling and acceleration doesn't seem like a bad deal at all.
Most of these are recommended every 3k miles/ every oil change interval so it’s silly to expect massive results from one application. They’re intended to maintain not restore. 👍
@N Diesal you can literally see the results yourself, there are also people who have used this product multiple times, My camera to look at the inside just like he did and it does absolutely work there's no if ands or buts about it it's irrefutable video evidence. So if it's trash in the can then it is trash in a can that works, I bet you're the guy who says clean them yourself which obviously yes that is the best way to do it is to get a valve job done but if you're just trying to get some simple cleaning and improve performance and life of the vehicle this absolutely helps on a measurable scale nice childish comment dude. You could at least explain WHY you think it's trash if you want to have a discussion like an adult.
With enough applications as preventative maintence, it will likely restore a lot, but you're right it will take multiple applications as part of a maintence plan. I like to think of it like brushing our teeth, consistency is key.
Hey Chis, just wanted to run this idea to you. Love your videos! So what I get from these videos is that the fuel additives aren’t a “one and done” type of thing. I believe that they should be approached as a maintenance method. You said that carbon build up is created “over time” so it only makes sense that these thing be used in intervals in order to get drastic results. For example before every oil change or after x amount of miles. I assume that it will take time to get results like with anything else. Those are my thoughts, let me know what you think!
Old video new comment. I've been using this stuff for the past few months in my vehicles and have noticed a serious difference with how they exhaust.... I always add the max clean when engines at 205° and drive aggressively to clean the valve seats and injectors. Looking at the top of the piston head you will see some of the carbon eaten away.... But where you're really wanting it to eat carbon away is on the cylinder wall so the rings can compress freely the way they do on a new engine.... Using this every other time I get gas... I have noticed how much cleaner my fuel system is, and it even saved me a fuel filter change on a project truck I bought that was straight piped and ran lean for a LONG time.... Royal purple is worth the money. Lucas and techron have been successful for me as well, but this stuff has always been the most effective as far as performance. Chrisfixx makes great videos but I've noticed he is more focused on the top of the piston head than where.the.rings meet the cylinder wall. Those rings HAVE to stay clean in order for that engine to survive for a long time. Either way, love these videos!
I've used Berryman's B-12 Chemtool for years. Now I've been a mechanic since the early '70s. Before the time of computer controlled fuel injection, carbs were the norm and quite frankly, they were a dirtier affair, as far as the engine internals were concerned. It wasn't just carbon build-up inside the cylinders that affected an engine's life/performance, but the oil would be contaminated too from excess fuel getting past the rings. The points-based ignition systems and the whole thing would be lucky to last 100k miles. Spark Plugs and points would need to be changed every 12K miles. Today, engine life expectancy is twice that or more. Plus tune-up frequency is between 60-100K miles. So life is a lot different today for most engines. As I said, I've found Chemtool to be a great general purpose brake and gunk cleaner. It removes gasoline varnish while leaving most other brands looking stupid. I have never tried testing it using a borescope, but you might want to add B-12 Chemtool it to your testing arsenal. In my day, I used to recommend a customer run a gallon of Diesel fuel through the gas tank every fourth or fifth tank full. I can tell you my results were engines with clean top-ends, heads that didn't have a nasty build-up of crud/wax/grease around the valve springs or in the oil galleys. (This is what also leads to internal engine wear.) The pistons and valves also appeared to be significantly cleaner over the long haul. The real difference was in their mileage - most of my customers who followed this advice would expect another 50-100k miles out of their rides. From personal experience, I had a '68 Mustang 302 that went over 238K miles before I broke it down (radiator leak caused it to over heat) and when I examined it - it was amazing, really, after this kind of care. Yes, the piston rings cracked from the heat, but the engine was very clean inside and throughout. Besides the diesel or Chemtool, you might also want to try adding a small stream of water to your intake, like you did with the seafoam cleaner, limit the amount injected through a small hose. Again, do not use enough to create hydro-lock, but enough to vaporize within the combustion chamber while running. The expanding stream of steam will often times blow away most of the larger (and more porous) hunks of attached carbon. I think the diesel fuel works the same way as it has a very low octane count. Diesel is oily and wet, and will tend to saturate in to the carbon deposits. It is not ignited by the spark plug or compression, however. Instead, in this case, the diesel is ignited by the gasoline. This gives the wet diesel an opportunity to wet then blow-off the carbon deposit(s). YMMV. But since you were interested in running these tests, I thought you might be interested in giving these age-old tests a run through as well. IF you try the diesel, I would suggest you do so with premium fuel - and non-ethanol added fuel to boot. The increased octane will help offset the lower octane rating of the diesel. (You should be able to find premium recreational fuels at some local gas stations. You might want to to call around to locate a retailer near you. Most motorcycle enthusiasts prefer this blend.) kind regards, Michael
Is this pre catalytic converters, that you used diesel? How would it work with today’s computer control engines? Cut in half for computer engine and catalytic conv.?
You've got some great vids for the DYI person who likes to keep their car or truck clean and maintained. I have one issue though with some of the 'fuel cleaner' vids. I was always taught to not let your vehicle go below a quarter tank of gas so if any garbage is in their it won't all hit your engine at once. In this vid you instructed your friend to drive the truck til it was almost out of gas and then you use the cleaners. Is this to also get rid of any garbage in the tank or....??? Thanks and keep the vids rollin'!
You did a very good job on this video Chris, it’s the best one I’ve seen from anyone. Awesome job. Question? do you know anything about Diesels? Keep up the good work Chris. I have told many about your videos 👍🏻
For anyone wondering about this stuff I use it every oil change that I do. I recently had to change my MDS solenoids in my 5.7L hemi. while doing that I had to pull my intake and I looked at my intake in my heads and they still look brand new no carbon at all. Same with the valves look brand new. took my borescope to the pistons thru my spark plugs they look good as well, not near as good looking as the intake runner or valves but a thin coat of carbon. But for my cars miles looks great. My car has 250,000mi on it and I have had it 7years and used this every oil change. I do an oil change every 5-7k miles. So I would say that if you use it regularly you will get the best results.
Chris, Love your videos. Your a favorite and the public is in debt to your time and experience. I certainly subscribed. I found this series so informative and wanted to express my appreciation to you. I do have a question to expand on your testing as I saw another video that came at this from a different angle - Water. I saw that water can be more effective and it seem to make sense. The products that burn hotter clean the best. highways driving is the best conditions. Steam is much hotter and may be more effective agent than these cleaning products. Logically it makes sense but I have no data to support my perceived logic from my research. What are your thoughts on using water to clean out carbon deposits? How would it compare to these products? Thanks. Fan of ChrisFixOops, saw that others have commented on the water approach. I'll read up.
I've used the STP 5 in one cleaner and the valveoline on my 3.7L V6 2013 mustang. The stuff does work, it's just slow. I add it in every 4 our five tank fills along with my octane booster. Everytime I take my car in and ask them to take a look at my piston heads the mechanic tells me its really clean in there. No rough idleing from this car either, which is nice. It isn't miraculous like the bottle says it is, but it does work. I'd recommend you start using it every couple thousand miles or so after you've hit the 30K mile mark, or after your warranty expires.
My Dad has said for some time he doubts any fuel injector cleaner can do what it claims based on % in the fuel system. It would be like putting one bottle of shampoo in a huge city water tower and expecting that to be enough to wash everyone's clothes or for everyone taking a shower to get clean from that alone. He says the reason he uses some periodically is to clean the tiny pin holes in his injectors. He claims that just the tiniest bit of varnish build up or carbon and the spray pattern goes from fine mist to rather large droplets. He claims it would take a much larger concentration by volume of the ingredients in fuel injector cleaners to ever hope to make a meaningful impact on piston deposits.He is talking about Amine based cleaners not cheap crude solvents since gas is already rather solvent like. Anyone that has ever had to replace a cylinder head knows how easy it is to clean all the carbon off the top of a piston with a solvent brush and a few splashes of liquid B12 Chemtool. Dropping a can of B12 Chemtool into the tank is not going to do any better then the other "Injector/Fuel System Cleaners" it always comes back to concentration. You can only dilute something so much and still have it do anything productive. If it was ran at high concentrations though your octane number migh drop enough to cause detonation which is no good at all.
I wonder if you could use this royal purple product like seafoam and not deposit it in the tank but directly to the fuel rail. That way you are getting 100% of the cleaner run through the engine.
+Adam Maxwell Seems reasonable!! Compared to carburated engines fuel injection has far less issues with excessive carbon. I have never seen a fuel injected car diesel or run-on after being switched off. I think keeping those injectors clean is the real key. If the fuel is well controled then the carbon is so minor that is it likely not much of an issue today. Sure it is their but it is so little compared to carburated vehicles that the carbon cleaning effects are not that big of a deal compared to how they are advertised.
Fuel system cleaners are not meant to clean the internal engine components. They are designed to clean the fuel system i.e. Fuel Injectors, pumps, the lines, the tank(minimally), the fuel rail, and regulator. I hate to say it but you were looking for evidence in the wrong place
the can states that it will remove carbon. that's what chrisfix was testing. and fuel system cleaner are meant t clean any part that the fuel comes in contact with like internal engine components "pistons and valves"
Hey Chrisfix, would you be up for a challenge? I'd like you to run your car on 2 tanks of BP ultimate or shell v power and have a look at the cylinder heads to see if it cleans anything! This seems to be a big question for a lot of people these days. Cheers, keep up the good work
Dolby 109 A failed intake manifold gasket is the reason for the coolant entering through the intake ports because the coolant crossover between the two cylinder heads is leaking. The intake gasket is used not only to seal the intake runners but also the coolant crossover. When the intake manifold fails the coolant can escape from the crossover and run freely down the intake ports of the head and it usually fills the spark plug wells causing a misfire as well. An intake manifold gasket failure is often misdiagnosed as a head gasket failure because some of the symptoms are similar.
Dolby 109 Well, it's not too strange. Every V8, V6, V10 I've ever seen has coolant crossovers through the intake manifold. Most of the time the thermostat housing is also incorporated into the intake manifold as well. On top of that there are usually EGR passages as well.
Im just going through all your videos and Just wanted to say I am soooooooooo glad I found your channel man. Thanks for everything your doing. Once suggestion is can you try Zmax fuel cleaner. I am super curious to see what those results could be
Smashing video as allways chris :-D And another cleaner that does almost nothing, i would be supprised if any of the the "snake oil" products actually do the job.
+zx8401ztv here is the thing...they dont work on high mileage engines because all of that stuff that took years build inside is impossible (rock solid) to move without mechanical cleaning you need to dismantle engine and use abrasives to safely remove that stuff how ever...if you use these cleaners from day one ...( 0 kilometer ) i can assure you 200% that the engine will be mirror shine clean and day and night difference in performance up to 300 000 miles let suppose that there is a super cleaner out there than clean that stuff out in one run ...then you will have wonderful things happen to your engine mainly rapid wear and clunking and in many cases seized engine ... the proper way to clean that neglected engine is to dismantle it piece by piece and use abrasives (power tools or good old hand scrubbing ) put it back together exactly the way it was (each part in its original place) + fresh oil and witness the magic of superb heat management and rapid accelerations lol i own a taxi fleet and and wrote down a comparison (car A and car B ) on one of chrixfix fuel cleaners videos ...both car A and B had similar mileage but the difference is car A had the cleaning solutions ( many brands through its life ) every 5000 to 10000 miles we used a bottle while car B used far less cleaners and just major service car A was brand new in performance and spotless clean from the inside car B was almost dead...in fact the more we use the cleaners the worse it gets because of that crap being released into the the oil system and doing rapid damage , bottom line : YES they do work...from day one....and DONT use it on high mileage engines (its too late for high mileage engines cars)
Francisco D'anconia my pleasure generally when approaching oil change use one bottle...and then change the oil and filter all together so the crap does not remain in the system ....and your engine is happy happy happy...most of the time
Faisal Abdulaziz My car is one of those too old to help ones haha. I just cleaned the throttle body a few days ago. COMPLETELY BLACK, and the entire intake... I was scraping with a spoon, black sludge... so so bad xD
I'm not doing anymore fuel system cleaner tests, after testing a bunch of them out I concluded that almost none of them worked as well as advertised so there wasn't much point to test anything out
@@chrisfix Thanks for the quick response, You have allot of great content! I know that most quality fuel system cleaners mainly do a great job at cleaning the fuel injectors and valves, Its hard to remove carbon build up on top of the piston. .If you want to get carbon off your piston rings use Valvoline restore and protect it slowly removes carbon build-up so your oil filter will not get clogged up so quick
I'd love to see one of these tests on a newer car. Maybe it'll keep the combustion chambers like new if it's used every oil change as they suggest. Just a thought.
Have you ever done a control? It would be interesting to see if there is any noticeable changes when running through a tank without anything in it. Also I'd argue there's a good chance that some of the carbon in this case was relocated down line, much as you hypothesized with the one valve that got dirtier.
Royal Purple works. I can tell by before and after engine performance. Big difference in idle speed, and acceleration, and fuel economy. So it does more than just cleaning.
+Tater79bj its actually condensation...that was my first thought too that it looked like antifreeze but cameras are really bad at guessing what color stuff is when theres no white to balance against...its called "white balance" and its how digital cameras figure out what color stuff is...ie the green/ gold dress photo that some people saw as green and some saw as gold was really a goof by the camera's white balance
Pretty sure a little bit of water isn't bad, but water doesn't compress and instead turns into steam which cleans some of the carbon off. Eric's got a video on it so I assume it's not that bad. Buzz is right about the acid part but it is negligible and is removed with the exhaust stroke of the engine. In short, use 50/50 of alcohol and water if you want it to burn properly and not hydrolock easily.
Frank Gutowski Unless your car has throttle body injection, the intake runners usually gunked up with deposits from the pcv system or dirt tbh. For the rest of us unfortunate people with port or direct injection, it's more maintenance lol.
Frank Gutowski Too bad they are not deemed necessary but power utilities are standard... They just assume it's another maitenance item for the majority that don't do work on cars. My take is that spraying water increases compression, but where I live gas is always contaminated with water lol.
It's pretty funny how convenience takes over cost, particularly auto cars that never see more than half throttle, or cars that are short driven and never reach operating temperature... Don't even get me started on atmospheric vent catch cans lol.
I always get 2 cans at a time. First can into the tank when its down to a 1/4 and then run it till the gas light comes on, then put in the 2nd bottle and top off the tank with it. I always use Shell 93 on fill-ups with cleaner since it always seems to enhance it lol. I haven't tried their max-clean, but I've used their Max Atomizer before and I could instantly tell a difference. I used to use Gumouts multi-system tuneup additive since other videos showed the biggest difference in the before and after with it and I thought it did a good job, though I never quite noticed a difference and both my cars (17k miles and 34k miles) always had a slight miss every now and then at idle. That Max Atomizer stopped the occasional miss the Gumout never did and it had a noticeable improvement in pep and idle smoothness just 50 miles into it that I never noticed with the Gumout Multisystem TuneUp additive (was always told to stay away from their "all in one" additive as it was a joke).
It would be interesting, how the carbon deposits vary over the same timeperiod without any cleaning additives. I assume, it will be about the same. Carbon will bild up untill it falls of randomly (like cylinder 1)
This stuff is designed to clean the fuel system, so to me that means build up in the lines and injectors, not inside the engine. Seems to be a vast oversimplification and a misunderstanding of what the product is supposed to do. You should have examined the carb or injectors first and done economy tests before and after. The way to remove carbon deposits is with subtle water injection.
I'm sure they write all kinds of convincing statement on labels designed to move product, but just look at the chemistry of the product if you want a serious idea of what it will do. Ideally all engine tests need engine test equipment. So ideally to show the benefits of cleaning injectors properly: 1. Dyno motor before as is. 2. Strip and examine the injectors, flow test before cleaning. 3. Clean and flow test injectors so you have a before and after comparison. 4. Reinstall injectors and dyno motor again, map changes in torque curve and afrs if any. Or to test this miracle product from royal purple: 1. Dyno engine before, remove and flow injectors. Physically inspect them 2. Pour it in your gas and follow the instructions on the label. 3. Re dyno the car and physically compare injectors and performance tests. Mostly with clogged injectors you will have poor idle and off idle performance, and not really notice a loss of performance as much as the motor speed sup. All you really need to do to clean a fuel system is to remove the injectors, have them flowed, cleaned and tested professionally, drain and put fresh fuel in the tank, maybe clean the screen on the pump inlet, and do a new fuel filter, and its going to be like new. Any kind of non mechanical solution is a daydream at best. Im sorry if that offends, but its just mechanical fact. Unfortunately this was just a guy playing with a bore scope and not a fuel system cleaner test. I would love to see you do another test with the fuel system in mind. A better video title for this would be 'Does fuel system cleaner also clean combustion chambers?'
Not sure if anyone said this, but I think you should have shown two of the cylinders from the other side and left them untreated. So we have a control to compare to. Because as it is, these results are really spotty and I'm skeptical. Regardless, you make great videos so I hope this doesn't sound like nit picking. Just trying to be helpful.
There is no way to leave them untreated. All the cylinders have to get fuel. Great tip though and yea, having that type of control for this test would have been a nice addition if it was possible!
Given that a lot of new cars are now going to "direct injection", it would be interesting if this product would actually work on a direct injection engine. I would suspect that it would take many more tanks applied with this stuff to show some progress but you might want to consider that. I know VW has been using direct injection for a while and you could probably find an older VW with significant carbon deposits to run such a test on. Just a thought.
That's what ruined my fuel pump on my car the fuel needle wasn't accurate and every now and then my car would run out of gas before replacing a new fuel pump on every turn i took the motor would shut completely, But why does that happen ? whats the reason that the fuel pump gets destroyed if you kept running out of gas completely
Because Ford's fuel pumps are horrible. They just refuse to make them better, so we have to replace them more often. We have Fords trucks and we have had to replace both of them in the past couple years. Never let it get below 1/4 tank.
KBHfinanceguy Have you thought of checking out if there's an aftermarket fuel pump for your Ford's ? (not a performance one something long lasting or heavy duty)
Hey Chris, did you check to see if the fuel injectors were clear before this test? I wonder if the injector for cylinder two was clogged and prevented the cleaner from working as well as it may have in cylinder one.
I haven't watched all the videos , but I know a fine mister bottle of water and a little naptha mixed in really used to clean up the carbon on the piston tops. Have to do it slow and when it's warm and the carbon bits out the tailpipe would show its result. Also when pulling the heads to replace them with a set of Holly heads, really was clean on those piston tops!
It has PEA in it which is a nitrogen-based cleaner I learned. It works well, but only if you use it regularly. That goes with any quality fuel system cleaner. I use 44k roughly every 5,000 miles. You can also do a BG 44k fuel treatment where you hook up a canister to the fuel rail through a hose, however, I left that to the professionals. You only have to do that once or twice for the life of the car they told me.
***** My oil change routine is usually to run a can of BG through on my last tank of gas before every oil change (3000mi/6mo OCI, almost 100% city driving). Used to use techron, but bg seems to work better (maybe all in my head). Seems to darken my oil noticeably sometimes, so I assume it's dumping a lot of the carbon into your oil. My grandpa and uncle always told me "if it doesn't come in a metal can, it's garbage." Dunno if that still rings true today, but BG products all still come in metal pop tops....
As someone else pointed out, it wouldn't be a good thing if it actually did a whole lot of cleaning. That would indicate a very corrosive/powerful product, who knows what it could damage.
It's not a magic thing, use it once and bam its brand new looking again. If you used this stuff once every 10,000-12,000 miles over the service life of the engine, it would help out even better.
Hey Chris thank you for all your videos and all of us enjoy every single one of them! With that said and these fuel system cleaners, when it comes to the combustion chamber I wonder if it would just be better to run the highest octane available as well as some fuel stations have racing fuel that is 100 octane plus and just run your car really hard causing higher fuel combustion temperatures there for getting rid of some of the carbon that would have the same effect. so somebody who puts this in their vehicle when they're getting on the freeway happens to floor it causing high RPMs and higher temperatures in the combustion chamber. Maybe possibly adding a higher octane racing fuel or 91 + adding the fuel system cleaner to it as well as a octane booster that is sold at most automotive stores. This would be the cleaner and a higher octane booster causing a higher temperature in the cylinder possibly cleaning out some of this carbon buildup. thank you so much for your videos look forward to the next one.
Higher octane doesn't necessarily mean better for your car. Most cars are engineered and tuned for specific octane ratios. Going below or above can cause issues. Mostly less power and milage due to the car not having the ability to ignite that mixture effectively. Resulting in unused/unspent fuel. You'll smell gas when u drive.
you do a great job with your videos. I've watched a lot of them. I know you've tried a lot of fuel system cleaners. in your opinion what is the best one you tried? have you tried Redline?
I have a good question, what if you put lucus oil base every weekend or when you put a full tank of gas? Will it be better for the engine or it won't matter?
look up a product called x66p by ac delco. I'm not a spokesperson for them but that product works. You do have to use it in a professional injector cleaning tool. Basically you pour some cleaner in the tool, add some gasoline and put on a compressed air line. Set the fuel pressure on the tool. Pull the fuse on the fuel pump and start the vehicle. Idle the car until the fluid runs out. I have witnessed this product unclog a bad plugged injector. It was like watching an engine smoother after plugging in a loose spark plug wire. What you can do with all the products is put a few drops of each product on a carbon covered part and see which dissolves the best.
Hey Chris, do you think sometime in the future you could do a spot on top tier fuels? I'm really curious to see if they're really better for your engine and help keep it cleaner.
Looks like you wanna do the fuel cleaner for a while to clean the valves, then do the seafoam treatment to clean the piston heads of the carbon that moves from the intake. Good stuff to know. I'll stick with the seafoam though.
There is a big mistake being made that by just filling half a tank of gasoline to a full can of the fuel system cleaner will yield better results because the the mixture will be more concentrated that way. But it that's not how these products work. The dilution they recommend is the proper amount that is mean to be effective and the product is specifically meant to yield the best results when it's run for a FULL tank of gas and allowed to remove carbon build up slowly, just as it got built up in the first place. By using only half a tank of fuel, you are effectively cutting in half the amount of time and repetition that the product would have had to have it's full effect on the carbon build up versus if you had actually filled the tank all the way, and no, having the mixture be more concentrated by only filling the tank halfway does not make up for cutting the application time in half. As the initial layers of carbon begin to get removed during the first part of the tank of gas, a fair amount of it will end up getting deposited downstream, as you can even see in this video, but if you run a full tank instead of a half a tank, during the 2nd half of that tank, the carbon that got deposited downstream eventually starts to dissipate as well and the areas upstream get even cleaner during the 2nd half of a full tank. Some things just work better over time at the proper ratio rather than all at once at a higher mix ratio. This is one of those times.
I would want to see a vehicle with history of regular fuel treatments and Tier 1 gas vs a cheap gas and no cleaners. My bet is that the carbon takes a .while to blow out so the long term test would be more definitive.
Had a bad miss a few days ago (P0302 on cyl 2) on my ‘01 250 5.4 v8 and was 50 miles from home. It was over 100 degrees in So Texas so I knew if we broke down in that heat we would be in trouble. Bought 2 cans of VP Madditive 7 in 1 for $32. Poured in both cans and headed home on the highway. Kept it in 2nd and not d 50 mph as you felt the miss less. Made it home checked the codes and got the P0302. Next day I took truck for a ride to run all the gas out that had the additive. Did not feel the miss. Checked and no codes.Bought another can VP Madditive and will be adding it to next tank. Will post an update in a week.
this product only have acetone, xylene and tuluene, just buy this stuff and add in fuel! for the price of one botthe of this stuff buy 3 liter of the stuff i said
add little oil also for lubrication! BTw this stuff if ride Slow will increase MPG if ride hard will spend more fuel because will burn more!! like chip tuning in low speed "less engine stress" spend less because have more power... in high rpm more fuel is required and burn more fast with this stuff i use in 30l fuel 30/50 ml of pre mixed with xylene, industrial acetone and toluene in big trips of all fuel or almost all used will add 60 liter 50ml ACETONE and 50ml pre mix with all 3 this big tank id for fuel economy and acetone work well in emissions and smoke the xylene and toluene in big trips if ride lets say 100MPh or more will spend more fuel and worse MPH , if stay in the 60/80 MPH will increase MPG max i see is about 15% if ride quietly and less smoke and old car ride like new i dont believe in fuel aditive will work riding fast because will always burn better and use more fuel, if have something that always increase MPG will decrease Octane and power for sure i use more this stuff for emissions and less smoke, and work nice in my petrol car i dont use diesel car so cant say
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Ive never bought anything other than royal purple for 15 years there products and oil is really worth it. Everytime i come on this channel this man is taking it to then next level of helping out the community. Chris you Channel really does give me hope for automotive industry as far as when it comes to moral and ethics. So many bad 🍎 have permanently engraved an ideology or belief on mechanics or automotive industry that will take decades to even change a little. Keep it up bro!👊👏
Tried the Royal Purple on my hybrid and it's smoothed out the acceleration nicely but hasn't improved my fuel economy yet. Happy with the purchase.
which hybrid and did you use the entire bottle?
change the air filter to high end ones
Watching this in 2024. Just watched a couple other videos, yours & other mechanic channels. I appreciate your transparent testing & results - no commission earned recommendations. From the comments it seems alot of people feel the same. This video is 8 yrs old, I hope you haven't changed❣️
I think this is more of a fuel injector cleaner, which is great to restore some power. From what I read on reviews, people were happy that this stopped their hesitation issues.
I used it to clean my fuel injectors because it was running a bit too rough at idle. Runs smoothly now. I'm impressed.
@@Mooseman327 did you use it more then once. Its done pretty good so far but I'm thinking of doing a second round
Yep. It's fuel injector cleaner, not a deposit remover. To remove the deposits, Gumout Multi-use Tune-up works wonders! This test is based on bad information.
Oh yea, I forgot to mention your engine cleaning tutorials! I’m actually proud of how clean all 4 of my cars engines turned out!!!!!!! Thanks again brother!
Remember, you can't expect the fuel system cleaners to perform miracles if they've never been used on a regular basis. That's a lot of buildup over the years. Good test.
Yeah I was wondering about that
And you gotta use top tier fuel which contains detergents that help clean as you go. That was a game changer for our vehicles. My lovely Toyota would hardly go at only 50k because of gas that was only a couple dollars cheaper per tank but just let that carbon build right on up because they didn’t add the detergents that clean the system all times of operation.
I have not used anything for 160k. LT fuel trim was over 30 on acceleration. Put in Lucas injector cleaner. 30 mi later it was 5. DOn't discount what can be done.
Exactly. It's like an old vessel stuck with grime.
@@djdannyp9581what’s top tier Fuel?
I want one of those cameras so I can look for where my gas mileage went.
💀💀
That was funny bro
Lmfao 🤣💯🤦🏾♂️
lmao tell'em bro
😆 lol
I agree. Chris seems like a hard working guy, with the support of his amazing parents. He’s actually testing products he’s not getting paid to review, and he had me subscribe to one of my first RUclips channels by his headlight cleaning tutorials. I’ve cleaned mine, my wife’s, and my parents cars headlights with the spot on results he walked me through. You’re awesome. I also just watched the Thunderbird, you gave your mom. Much luv, your word to me, now is freaking golden! Thanks man, for doing what you do. I’m proud to say, your word means it’s weight in that “golden” description I just made! I’m stoked to do all my cars with the Sea foam line. I’m a little disappointed in the Lucas cleaner, because everything besides that one has never done me wrong. Here’s to an awesome guy, with awesome parents! Love your kids guys! My kids are my reason for living, and I hope they all end up like you buddy.
He's getting paid by RUclips Hello anybody in there junior
@@hammertime4257 bro, at least he’s trying. Who cares about who’s paying him. Almost all his hacks, I’ve tried, used, and have saved sooooo much money instead of paying someone god knows how much more. No hate man, but he found a way to make a living. Yea, F you Susan Wazowski! I support you totally, but to hate on him for becoming somewhat successful? Bro, then you do do it.
@@hammertime4257 sorry you live such a sad life..............
Sea foam is for 2 stroke, not modern cars
I second the BG44K cleaner. It's something I've noticed marked improvement on my carbed motorcycle which wouldn't idle without the choke... after one tank of BG44K, it now runs better than when I first bought it.
I am really glad you made this video, and especially the Seafoam video. I actually used the Seafoam on my Lawn Tractor to stop surging. Although it still surges it is a lot better than before. I know you are not advocating one product over another, but I wanted to report that I have had a positive result. Thanks for your videos!
Seafoam sucks.
Not meant for 4 stroke engines
I used to work for a dealership for many years. One product worked so well, it had to be diluted with gasoline because it was so powerful (unless the job called for 100%) Its called GM Top engine cleaner. You may have to ask at parts department for it, it's not expensive (maybe $6-10) a can. You can use it many ways but I seen it spayed into the throttle body over 15 minutes (with a pressured air adaptor). I would like to see how it works in your videos.
I looked this up online and it definitely seems to be one of the most potent ones on offer.
Interesting friend thanks
Keep that in mind
Marcel Zues I designed this rhyme?
abeg1571 to remind you of the time?
Is Chris from a different world? Seriously bro your really good
You gave me confidence in fixing my own car and it’s never been running so smooth
I’ve done all the fluids change and a lot more it’s running 100% good now
Thank you tons Chris 🙏
Wow Chris, you broke my heart with this video.. well Royal Purple did. I'm a big believer in RP, I use their rear end diff oil, engine, transmission, and even radiator "purple ice" (for aluminum heads and water pump treatment) Hell, I haveRP Gun oil as well. My dad gave me the gas treatment a few times and can't wait to show him your un-biased video.. thx man, keep it up
Royal purple is good stuff, but it's more on par with mobile1. If you want the best of the best get amsoil or redline.
Good job man, keeping it straight to the point without any BS. I wish there were more people on RUclips taking this approach. It's good to see someone with minimal resources doing solid research.
Thanks Brock!
I agree with you Brock! I couldn't have written it better, thumbs up for both of you!
Exactly real genuine human. Would be honored to help this man if he ever needed it. 🙏
My dad who worked for years as an aircraft mechanic and for a while as a race car mechanic and currently works on a lot of cars volunteering at a seminary in texas. He suggests putting in a quart of ATF fluid to clean out these deposits. He says it works well in making cars run smoother.
I noticed a considerable improvement in acceleration performance with one treatment on a high-mileage vehicle. Remember: Royal Purple is a _fuel injector cleaner._ Sure it will scrub carbon from your cylinder but that isn’t the point.
Add "scrubbing bubbles" for a cleaner experience.
@@SpaceCadet4Jesus 10-4
The main point often is fuel injector maintenance and cleaning
"......I'd say it's still not as good as Sea Foam......"
and that's all I needed to know since my 2001 Tacoma is due for some love! Thanks Chris, Sea Foam it is!
Hey Chris, If you wanna see results from these products, try getting an worn or a short trip runner engine and give them two bottles as in double dose, you should run these engines in highway speed conditions, as much as possible while using the cleaner, I suggest this it's due to as you describe in your vid the engine you're testing here aren't really having carbon related running issues, so most likely it isn't going to do much. Thanks for the vids
"Heh, and this stuff is ACTUALLY purple...."
...Said every Royal Purple user ever.
+YoloMcSwaggins lol
+ChrisFix PLEASE DO BG44K next!!
Alexander Chow Not heard of that. I'll have to look that one up!
+Alexander Chow I was about to ask the same thing. BG44K please.
i did lol
I think even the best cleaners will need at least 3 applications, in order to flush out the carbon that broke loose and deposited somewhere else.
Also, the reason the cleaner pistons don't see as much result is that those pistons are not getting as much fuel. Since the cleaner is in the fuel, those pistons won't clean as well. It's usually the pistons furthest from the fuel pump, at the front of the engine that will be cleanest.
Chris Fix ,. I was smelling FUMES in my car for long months and I knew it would COST me hundreds of dollars to get it checked by a shop! I saw a video on Sea Form and I poured that stuff in my GAS tank about halfway! SeaForm really works!! I can now breathe in my car with less fumes!! Just $ 14.00 cost CURED my problems! My prayers 🙏🙏 came TRUE, thank God! And I really appreciate your tips on products and car repairs! Your a mechanic and a doctor! ⚠️⚠️⚠️⚠️
Another good one from Chrisfix. It seems like all these cleaners work to some degree more or less. What the mfgrs don't tell you is that it takes gallons of the stuff before there's any significant affect.
Using these cleaners early on in the engines life about every 3000 miles gives amazing results.
I think thats the idea it says every 10,000 miles right on the can its more preventative than anything else
@@Codemeister99 not the max clean 6 oz it's every fill up or 3k
@@jonmo2694 fair enough I was speaking more to the fact its not really meant to clean hard deposits that are already there more to prevent the buildup in the first place
Clear enthusiasm in voice tone and camera angles
ChrisFix! Spray some water lightly into the intake with a spray bottle and see how that works!
Theres a ton of people that say this is how you clean that carbon off completely. Even EricTheCarGuy says it works.
I wanna try it on my 06 Mustang GT but I'm scared to do it! lol!
me 2 :) doit pls pls.
+Christian Neff, He already did this, he told in the end you never get a shiny piston head as from a head gasket leak :) This is the conclusion water cleans the best over time :)
+Christian Neff It would be nice to see some before/after results of a proper water fog treatment.
EricTheCarGuy did this. Pretty amazed with the results.
+Christian Neff Water can do a pretty good job on the carbon buildup on pistons, but will do nothing for the intake valves. Intake valve deposits cause more driveability issues than piston deposits, unfortunately.
marvel is the one I'm waiting on. over 80 years it must do something
Stay tuned. I'm looking for a car to test it on.
+ChrisFix i been waiting for the marvel oil also bro. lol
me too
+ChrisFix me too!
+ChrisFix me 4. please test mmo
Great test using the camera. Past tests show that fuel cleaners with D.E.A do the best job as far as gas additives.
love the kid, so knowledgeable, learning a lot from him, about time, thank you, now I can really keep track of maintaining my truck
Based on each valve, having pretty substantial differences in carbon, one being completely clean, one being totally dirty, I’d probably say that that engine has issues outside of a fuel system cleaner being needed
I've been using RP Max clean since this video came out. Figured I'd share my experiences over the years for the folks that will end up here later.
Vehicle 1- 2004 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L . Can't say I really noticed any improvement in MPG, but after putting in a few cans, the truck did accelerate smoother and seemed to have a little bit more bottom end power.
Vehicle 2- 2015 Ford Taurus SHO 3.5L EcoBoost. I didn't notice any good or bad with using Max Clean. The vehicle already ran fine with no issues. it just didn't seem worth the money with this specific vehicle. It's worth noting that the 3.5L EB is a direct injection engine, so the valves never got fuel+Max Clean sprayed on them.
Vehicle 3- 2020 Nissan Murano 3.5L V6. This was when Iearned that Max Clean is best used before heading out on a road trip. I noticed the car did idle and accelerate smoother after a 3.5 hour drive with Max Clean. There were way too many variables on these trips (construction closures, stop and go driving due to accidents, weather, etc.) for me to say anything about fuel economy. Only paying $20 for noticeably smoother idling and acceleration doesn't seem like a bad deal at all.
Most of these are recommended every 3k miles/ every oil change interval so it’s silly to expect massive results from one application. They’re intended to maintain not restore. 👍
@N Diesal you can literally see the results yourself, there are also people who have used this product multiple times, My camera to look at the inside just like he did and it does absolutely work there's no if ands or buts about it it's irrefutable video evidence. So if it's trash in the can then it is trash in a can that works, I bet you're the guy who says clean them yourself which obviously yes that is the best way to do it is to get a valve job done but if you're just trying to get some simple cleaning and improve performance and life of the vehicle this absolutely helps on a measurable scale nice childish comment dude. You could at least explain WHY you think it's trash if you want to have a discussion like an adult.
With enough applications as preventative maintence, it will likely restore a lot, but you're right it will take multiple applications as part of a maintence plan. I like to think of it like brushing our teeth, consistency is key.
Hey Chis, just wanted to run this idea to you. Love your videos! So what I get from these videos is that the fuel additives aren’t a “one and done” type of thing. I believe that they should be approached as a maintenance method. You said that carbon build up is created “over time” so it only makes sense that these thing be used in intervals in order to get drastic results. For example before every oil change or after x amount of miles. I assume that it will take time to get results like with anything else. Those are my thoughts, let me know what you think!
I think you’re right!
That's what I was thinking also.
Old video new comment. I've been using this stuff for the past few months in my vehicles and have noticed a serious difference with how they exhaust.... I always add the max clean when engines at 205° and drive aggressively to clean the valve seats and injectors. Looking at the top of the piston head you will see some of the carbon eaten away.... But where you're really wanting it to eat carbon away is on the cylinder wall so the rings can compress freely the way they do on a new engine.... Using this every other time I get gas... I have noticed how much cleaner my fuel system is, and it even saved me a fuel filter change on a project truck I bought that was straight piped and ran lean for a LONG time.... Royal purple is worth the money. Lucas and techron have been successful for me as well, but this stuff has always been the most effective as far as performance. Chrisfixx makes great videos but I've noticed he is more focused on the top of the piston head than where.the.rings meet the cylinder wall. Those rings HAVE to stay clean in order for that engine to survive for a long time. Either way, love these videos!
I've used Berryman's B-12 Chemtool for years. Now I've been a mechanic since the early '70s. Before the time of computer controlled fuel injection, carbs were the norm and quite frankly, they were a dirtier affair, as far as the engine internals were concerned. It wasn't just carbon build-up inside the cylinders that affected an engine's life/performance, but the oil would be contaminated too from excess fuel getting past the rings. The points-based ignition systems and the whole thing would be lucky to last 100k miles. Spark Plugs and points would need to be changed every 12K miles. Today, engine life expectancy is twice that or more. Plus tune-up frequency is between 60-100K miles. So life is a lot different today for most engines.
As I said, I've found Chemtool to be a great general purpose brake and gunk cleaner. It removes gasoline varnish while leaving most other brands looking stupid. I have never tried testing it using a borescope, but you might want to add B-12 Chemtool it to your testing arsenal.
In my day, I used to recommend a customer run a gallon of Diesel fuel through the gas tank every fourth or fifth tank full. I can tell you my results were engines with clean top-ends, heads that didn't have a nasty build-up of crud/wax/grease around the valve springs or in the oil galleys. (This is what also leads to internal engine wear.) The pistons and valves also appeared to be significantly cleaner over the long haul. The real difference was in their mileage - most of my customers who followed this advice would expect another 50-100k miles out of their rides. From personal experience, I had a '68 Mustang 302 that went over 238K miles before I broke it down (radiator leak caused it to over heat) and when I examined it - it was amazing, really, after this kind of care. Yes, the piston rings cracked from the heat, but the engine was very clean inside and throughout.
Besides the diesel or Chemtool, you might also want to try adding a small stream of water to your intake, like you did with the seafoam cleaner, limit the amount injected through a small hose. Again, do not use enough to create hydro-lock, but enough to vaporize within the combustion chamber while running. The expanding stream of steam will often times blow away most of the larger (and more porous) hunks of attached carbon.
I think the diesel fuel works the same way as it has a very low octane count. Diesel is oily and wet, and will tend to saturate in to the carbon deposits. It is not ignited by the spark plug or compression, however. Instead, in this case, the diesel is ignited by the gasoline. This gives the wet diesel an opportunity to wet then blow-off the carbon deposit(s). YMMV. But since you were interested in running these tests, I thought you might be interested in giving these age-old tests a run through as well. IF you try the diesel, I would suggest you do so with premium fuel - and non-ethanol added fuel to boot. The increased octane will help offset the lower octane rating of the diesel. (You should be able to find premium recreational fuels at some local gas stations. You might want to to call around to locate a retailer near you. Most motorcycle enthusiasts prefer this blend.)
kind regards,
Michael
+Michael Myjak Thanks for the info and sharing Michael!
Plus it's really cheap next to Royal Purple and Seafoam.
Is this pre catalytic converters, that you used diesel? How would it work with today’s computer control engines? Cut in half for computer engine and catalytic conv.?
Really enjoy your experiment videos, has a weird sense of originality and mystery to it I guess you could say.
You've got some great vids for the DYI person who likes to keep their car or truck clean and maintained. I have one issue though with some of the 'fuel cleaner' vids. I was always taught to not let your vehicle go below a quarter tank of gas so if any garbage is in their it won't all hit your engine at once. In this vid you instructed your friend to drive the truck til it was almost out of gas and then you use the cleaners. Is this to also get rid of any garbage in the tank or....??? Thanks and keep the vids rollin'!
Love these videos man. How long have you been into cars to know so much about cars?
You did a very good job on this video Chris, it’s the best one I’ve seen from anyone. Awesome job.
Question? do you know anything about Diesels? Keep up the good work Chris. I have told many about your videos 👍🏻
For anyone wondering about this stuff I use it every oil change that I do. I recently had to change my MDS solenoids in my 5.7L hemi. while doing that I had to pull my intake and I looked at my intake in my heads and they still look brand new no carbon at all. Same with the valves look brand new. took my borescope to the pistons thru my spark plugs they look good as well, not near as good looking as the intake runner or valves but a thin coat of carbon. But for my cars miles looks great. My car has 250,000mi on it and I have had it 7years and used this every oil change. I do an oil change every 5-7k miles. So I would say that if you use it regularly you will get the best results.
Its been almost three years, where are the other fuel system cleaner tests? I'm interested in the Amsoil PI test.
This comment is now 3 years old
@@THXIIIRTEEN Holy shite, I forgot all about this 😅
6 y now
Chris, Love your videos. Your a favorite and the public is in debt to your time and experience. I certainly subscribed. I found this series so informative and wanted to express my appreciation to you. I do have a question to expand on your testing as I saw another video that came at this from a different angle - Water. I saw that water can be more effective and it seem to make sense. The products that burn hotter clean the best. highways driving is the best conditions. Steam is much hotter and may be more effective agent than these cleaning products. Logically it makes sense but I have no data to support my perceived logic from my research. What are your thoughts on using water to clean out carbon deposits? How would it compare to these products? Thanks. Fan of ChrisFixOops, saw that others have commented on the water approach. I'll read up.
I've used the STP 5 in one cleaner and the valveoline on my 3.7L V6 2013 mustang. The stuff does work, it's just slow. I add it in every 4 our five tank fills along with my octane booster. Everytime I take my car in and ask them to take a look at my piston heads the mechanic tells me its really clean in there. No rough idleing from this car either, which is nice. It isn't miraculous like the bottle says it is, but it does work. I'd recommend you start using it every couple thousand miles or so after you've hit the 30K mile mark, or after your warranty expires.
ChrisFix, I want to see a review about BG 44K Platinum.
Just finished watching your all your fuel additive videos, & THANKS!!! Big help & will probably use this cleaner from now on
Always love the videos even seven years later , you should do a update or a how to for GDI engines considering they are pretty popular
My Dad has said for some time he doubts any fuel injector cleaner can do what it claims based on % in the fuel system. It would be like putting one bottle of shampoo in a huge city water tower and expecting that to be enough to wash everyone's clothes or for everyone taking a shower to get clean from that alone.
He says the reason he uses some periodically is to clean the tiny pin holes in his injectors. He claims that just the tiniest bit of varnish build up or carbon and the spray pattern goes from fine mist to rather large droplets.
He claims it would take a much larger concentration by volume of the ingredients in fuel injector cleaners to ever hope to make a meaningful impact on piston deposits.He is talking about Amine based cleaners not cheap crude solvents since gas is already rather solvent like.
Anyone that has ever had to replace a cylinder head knows how easy it is to clean all the carbon off the top of a piston with a solvent brush and a few splashes of liquid B12 Chemtool. Dropping a can of B12 Chemtool into the tank is not going to do any better then the other "Injector/Fuel System Cleaners" it always comes back to concentration. You can only dilute something so much and still have it do anything productive. If it was ran at high concentrations though your octane number migh drop enough to cause detonation which is no good at all.
+buckaroobonsi555 so true
I wonder if you could use this royal purple product like seafoam and not deposit it in the tank but directly to the fuel rail. That way you are getting 100% of the cleaner run through the engine.
+Adam Maxwell Seems reasonable!! Compared to carburated engines fuel injection has far less issues with excessive carbon. I have never seen a fuel injected car diesel or run-on after being switched off. I think keeping those injectors clean is the real key. If the fuel is well controled then the carbon is so minor that is it likely not much of an issue today. Sure it is their but it is so little compared to carburated vehicles that the carbon cleaning effects are not that big of a deal compared to how they are advertised.
Fuel system cleaners are not meant to clean the internal engine components. They are designed to clean the fuel system i.e. Fuel Injectors, pumps, the lines, the tank(minimally), the fuel rail, and regulator. I hate to say it but you were looking for evidence in the wrong place
I had to scroll way too far to find someone who got it
the can states that it will remove carbon. that's what chrisfix was testing. and fuel system cleaner are meant t clean any part that the fuel comes in contact with like internal engine components "pistons and valves"
But if it removes carbon, only to re-distribute it somewhere else, what good is it?
Ur comment wouldnt be here if ChrisFix wuznt generous enough to do tje vid pal heeeehehe
It's supposed to come out of the exhaust...
I just want to say thank you, I’ve learn a lot from you and hace saves probably thousands
Hey Chrisfix, would you be up for a challenge? I'd like you to run your car on 2 tanks of BP ultimate or shell v power and have a look at the cylinder heads to see if it cleans anything! This seems to be a big question for a lot of people these days. Cheers, keep up the good work
The car has an intake manifold gasket leak. You can see clearly that there's coolant pooling on the closed intake valves in your borescope shots.
It probably helped with cleaning too lol
Why would there be coolant running through the intake manifold? Wouldn't that be a head gasket failure?
Dolby 109 A failed intake manifold gasket is the reason for the coolant entering through the intake ports because the coolant crossover between the two cylinder heads is leaking.
The intake gasket is used not only to seal the intake runners but also the coolant crossover.
When the intake manifold fails the coolant can escape from the crossover and run freely down the intake ports of the head and it usually fills the spark plug wells causing a misfire as well.
An intake manifold gasket failure is often misdiagnosed as a head gasket failure because some of the symptoms are similar.
Mike Tunstall
This must be a very strangely designed intake manifold.
Dolby 109 Well, it's not too strange. Every V8, V6, V10 I've ever seen has coolant crossovers through the intake manifold. Most of the time the thermostat housing is also incorporated into the intake manifold as well. On top of that there are usually EGR passages as well.
Im just going through all your videos and Just wanted to say I am soooooooooo glad I found your channel man.
Thanks for everything your doing. Once suggestion is can you try Zmax fuel cleaner. I am super curious to see what those results could be
Smashing video as allways chris :-D
And another cleaner that does almost nothing, i would be supprised if any of the the "snake oil" products actually do the job.
+zx8401ztv
here is the thing...they dont work on high mileage engines because all of that stuff that took years build inside is impossible (rock solid) to move without mechanical cleaning you need to dismantle engine and use abrasives to safely remove that stuff
how ever...if you use these cleaners from day one ...( 0 kilometer )
i can assure you 200% that the engine will be mirror shine clean and day and night difference in performance up to 300 000 miles
let suppose that there is a super cleaner out there than clean that stuff out in one run ...then you will have wonderful things happen to your engine mainly rapid wear and clunking and in many cases seized engine ...
the proper way to clean that neglected engine is to dismantle it piece by piece and use abrasives (power tools or good old hand scrubbing ) put it back together exactly the way it was (each part in its original place) + fresh oil and witness the magic of superb heat management and rapid accelerations lol
i own a taxi fleet and and wrote down a comparison (car A and car B ) on one of chrixfix fuel cleaners videos ...both car A and B had similar mileage but the difference is car A had the cleaning solutions ( many brands through its life ) every 5000 to 10000 miles we used a bottle
while car B used far less cleaners and just major service
car A was brand new in performance and spotless clean from the inside
car B was almost dead...in fact the more we use the cleaners the worse it gets because of that crap being released into the the oil system and doing rapid damage ,
bottom line : YES they do work...from day one....and DONT use it on high mileage engines (its too late for high mileage engines cars)
+Faisal Abdulaziz Awesome story thank you! You make a wonderful point that I didn't think of. start from new.
Francisco D'anconia
my pleasure
generally when approaching oil change use one bottle...and then change the oil and filter all together so the crap does not remain in the system ....and your engine is happy happy happy...most of the time
Faisal Abdulaziz My car is one of those too old to help ones haha. I just cleaned the throttle body a few days ago. COMPLETELY BLACK, and the entire intake... I was scraping with a spoon, black sludge... so so bad xD
Francisco D'anconia aaa yes you have those too....it amazing how fast carbon builds up in these components ....
I use BG 44k. Great stuff. Using Top Tier gas is also important in keeping your injectors clean.
Chris do a test with 505 CRF fuel system cleaner, you go more than out of your way on your tests , much appreciated
I'm not doing anymore fuel system cleaner tests, after testing a bunch of them out I concluded that almost none of them worked as well as advertised so there wasn't much point to test anything out
@@chrisfix Thanks for the quick response,
You have allot of great content!
I know that most quality fuel system cleaners mainly do a great job at cleaning the fuel injectors and valves, Its hard to remove carbon build up on top of the piston. .If you want to get carbon off your piston rings use Valvoline restore and protect it slowly removes carbon build-up so your oil filter will not get clogged up so quick
I'd love to see one of these tests on a newer car. Maybe it'll keep the combustion chambers like new if it's used every oil change as they suggest. Just a thought.
Have you ever done a control? It would be interesting to see if there is any noticeable changes when running through a tank without anything in it.
Also I'd argue there's a good chance that some of the carbon in this case was relocated down line, much as you hypothesized with the one valve that got dirtier.
The control was in the beginning. He video taped the insides with "nothing in it" to base the whole experiment on.
@@maurice2014-- When I saw the post I thought, so you want him to add 20 ounces of plain gas and test with that as a control?
Royal Purple works. I can tell by before and after engine performance. Big difference in idle speed, and acceleration, and fuel economy. So it does more than just cleaning.
anybody notice what looks like coolant sitting on top of the valve?
+Tater79bj That is what happens to metal when it heats and cools many times.
that's what I was thinking
+Tater79bj MORTAL KOMBAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
+Tater79bj Probably motor oil from leaky valve guide seals, or condensation that has formed inside the intake as it cooled.
+Tater79bj its actually condensation...that was my first thought too that it looked like antifreeze but cameras are really bad at guessing what color stuff is when theres no white to balance against...its called "white balance" and its how digital cameras figure out what color stuff is...ie the green/ gold dress photo that some people saw as green and some saw as gold was really a goof by the camera's white balance
spraying a mist of water into your intake works better to remove the carbon
Damages engine. The water changes into a acid. Its the acid in carbonated water. Carbonic acid
Pretty sure a little bit of water isn't bad, but water doesn't compress and instead turns into steam which cleans some of the carbon off. Eric's got a video on it so I assume it's not that bad. Buzz is right about the acid part but it is negligible and is removed with the exhaust stroke of the engine. In short, use 50/50 of alcohol and water if you want it to burn properly and not hydrolock easily.
Frank Gutowski Unless your car has throttle body injection, the intake runners usually gunked up with deposits from the pcv system or dirt tbh. For the rest of us unfortunate people with port or direct injection, it's more maintenance lol.
Frank Gutowski Too bad they are not deemed necessary but power utilities are standard... They just assume it's another maitenance item for the majority that don't do work on cars. My take is that spraying water increases compression, but where I live gas is always contaminated with water lol.
It's pretty funny how convenience takes over cost, particularly auto cars that never see more than half throttle, or cars that are short driven and never reach operating temperature... Don't even get me started on atmospheric vent catch cans lol.
I always get 2 cans at a time. First can into the tank when its down to a 1/4 and then run it till the gas light comes on, then put in the 2nd bottle and top off the tank with it. I always use Shell 93 on fill-ups with cleaner since it always seems to enhance it lol.
I haven't tried their max-clean, but I've used their Max Atomizer before and I could instantly tell a difference. I used to use Gumouts multi-system tuneup additive since other videos showed the biggest difference in the before and after with it and I thought it did a good job, though I never quite noticed a difference and both my cars (17k miles and 34k miles) always had a slight miss every now and then at idle. That Max Atomizer stopped the occasional miss the Gumout never did and it had a noticeable improvement in pep and idle smoothness just 50 miles into it that I never noticed with the Gumout Multisystem TuneUp additive (was always told to stay away from their "all in one" additive as it was a joke).
I don't see the link to the REDLINE...have you done the test? is it working?
thank you
Please try the liqui moly cleaner. They make some of the best products!!
Dude you're using your own money with no sponsors just to give us a heads up? Subbed.
He gets millions of views so its chump change to him
It would be interesting, how the carbon deposits vary over the same timeperiod without any cleaning additives.
I assume, it will be about the same. Carbon will bild up untill it falls of randomly (like cylinder 1)
This stuff is designed to clean the fuel system, so to me that means build up in the lines and injectors, not inside the engine. Seems to be a vast oversimplification and a misunderstanding of what the product is supposed to do.
You should have examined the carb or injectors first and done economy tests before and after. The way to remove carbon deposits is with subtle water injection.
+MJBOGAN thanks for sharing. While you are correct, it also says on the bottle that it cleans the combustion chamber as I showed in the video.
I'm sure they write all kinds of convincing statement on labels designed to move product, but just look at the chemistry of the product if you want a serious idea of what it will do.
Ideally all engine tests need engine test equipment.
So ideally to show the benefits of cleaning injectors properly:
1. Dyno motor before as is.
2. Strip and examine the injectors, flow test before cleaning.
3. Clean and flow test injectors so you have a before and after comparison.
4. Reinstall injectors and dyno motor again, map changes in torque curve and afrs if any.
Or to test this miracle product from royal purple:
1. Dyno engine before, remove and flow injectors. Physically inspect them
2. Pour it in your gas and follow the instructions on the label.
3. Re dyno the car and physically compare injectors and performance tests.
Mostly with clogged injectors you will have poor idle and off idle performance, and not really notice a loss of performance as much as the motor speed sup.
All you really need to do to clean a fuel system is to remove the injectors, have them flowed, cleaned and tested professionally, drain and put fresh fuel in the tank, maybe clean the screen on the pump inlet, and do a new fuel filter, and its going to be like new. Any kind of non mechanical solution is a daydream at best. Im sorry if that offends, but its just mechanical fact. Unfortunately this was just a guy playing with a bore scope and not a fuel system cleaner test. I would love to see you do another test with the fuel system in mind. A better video title for this would be 'Does fuel system cleaner also clean combustion chambers?'
@@chrisfix Yeah but that's not it's main use man.
Not sure if anyone said this, but I think you should have shown two of the cylinders from the other side and left them untreated. So we have a control to compare to. Because as it is, these results are really spotty and I'm skeptical. Regardless, you make great videos so I hope this doesn't sound like nit picking. Just trying to be helpful.
There is no way to leave them untreated. All the cylinders have to get fuel. Great tip though and yea, having that type of control for this test would have been a nice addition if it was possible!
Chris you're awesome, love all your videos. Very thorough
Given that a lot of new cars are now going to "direct injection", it would be interesting if this product would actually work on a direct injection engine. I would suspect that it would take many more tanks applied with this stuff to show some progress but you might want to consider that. I know VW has been using direct injection for a while and you could probably find an older VW with significant carbon deposits to run such a test on. Just a thought.
It won’t work on valves in a direct inject engine since the fuel goes directly into the engine.
I think after you try all of the tests, you should do a top ten. I’d think that would be a great idea dude.
I would love to see GM Top engine cleaner vs Amsoil Power Foam!!!!!
that_guy_right_there _ GM TOP ENGINE CLEANER is the name ?
Love to see the results for the Redline cleaner, and amsoil!!
Thanks for the videos. That's the kind of information exchange this medium was made for. Keep up the good work
never run your car completely out of gas, you could ruin your fuel pump
That's what ruined my fuel pump on my car the fuel needle wasn't accurate and every now and then my car would run out of gas before replacing a new fuel pump on every turn i took the motor would shut completely, But why does that happen ? whats the reason that the fuel pump gets destroyed if you kept running out of gas completely
+SalemMillion gasoline lubricates the pump. if the tank goes dry it will burn up.
Because Ford's fuel pumps are horrible. They just refuse to make them better, so we have to replace them more often. We have Fords trucks and we have had to replace both of them in the past couple years. Never let it get below 1/4 tank.
carbonunit
So if a car is parked in a garage say for 5 years that's going to damage and ruin the fuel pump ? and thank you for explaining
KBHfinanceguy
Have you thought of checking out if there's an aftermarket fuel pump for your Ford's ? (not a performance one something long lasting or heavy duty)
Hey Chris, did you check to see if the fuel injectors were clear before this test? I wonder if the injector for cylinder two was clogged and prevented the cleaner from working as well as it may have in cylinder one.
I haven't watched all the videos , but I know a fine mister bottle of water and a little naptha mixed in really used to clean up the carbon on the piston tops. Have to do it slow and when it's warm and the carbon bits out the tailpipe would show its result. Also when pulling the heads to replace them with a set of Holly heads, really was clean on those piston tops!
Please try BG44k and compare it to the other fuel system cleaners
How about BG 44K? That stuff has been around ages as well.
+rewtuser INDEED
Love bg products. I use it everyday
It has PEA in it which is a nitrogen-based cleaner I learned. It works well, but only if you use it regularly. That goes with any quality fuel system cleaner. I use 44k roughly every 5,000 miles. You can also do a BG 44k fuel treatment where you hook up a canister to the fuel rail through a hose, however, I left that to the professionals. You only have to do that once or twice for the life of the car they told me.
***** My oil change routine is usually to run a can of BG through on my last tank of gas before every oil change (3000mi/6mo OCI, almost 100% city driving). Used to use techron, but bg seems to work better (maybe all in my head). Seems to darken my oil noticeably sometimes, so I assume it's dumping a lot of the carbon into your oil.
My grandpa and uncle always told me "if it doesn't come in a metal can, it's garbage." Dunno if that still rings true today, but BG products all still come in metal pop tops....
Get the 44K,
I use B-12 chemtool. Very satisfied with that brand.
Overall these fuel system cleaners really don't do a whole hell of a lot
As someone else pointed out, it wouldn't be a good thing if it actually did a whole lot of cleaning. That would indicate a very corrosive/powerful product, who knows what it could damage.
THANK YOU. FINALLY SOMEONE WITH BRAINS. WHY ARE PEOPLE SO FUCKING GULLIBLE?
It's not a magic thing, use it once and bam its brand new looking again. If you used this stuff once every 10,000-12,000 miles over the service life of the engine, it would help out even better.
Hey Chris thank you for all your videos and all of us enjoy every single one of them! With that said and these fuel system cleaners, when it comes to the combustion chamber I wonder if it would just be better to run the highest octane available as well as some fuel stations have racing fuel that is 100 octane plus and just run your car really hard causing higher fuel combustion temperatures there for getting rid of some of the carbon that would have the same effect. so somebody who puts this in their vehicle when they're getting on the freeway happens to floor it causing high RPMs and higher temperatures in the combustion chamber. Maybe possibly adding a higher octane racing fuel or 91 + adding the fuel system cleaner to it as well as a octane booster that is sold at most automotive stores. This would be the cleaner and a higher octane booster causing a higher temperature in the cylinder possibly cleaning out some of this carbon buildup. thank you so much for your videos look forward to the next one.
You're talking the "Italian tuneup" mostly. Not sure it works as well on modern engine design, although it used to work well way back in the day.
Higher octane doesn't necessarily mean better for your car. Most cars are engineered and tuned for specific octane ratios. Going below or above can cause issues. Mostly less power and milage due to the car not having the ability to ignite that mixture effectively. Resulting in unused/unspent fuel. You'll smell gas when u drive.
You have such an awesome attitude and it is fun watching your videos thank you for making them and thank you for your help
you do a great job with your videos. I've watched a lot of them. I know you've tried a lot of fuel system cleaners. in your opinion what is the best one you tried? have you tried Redline?
Why do you think fuel system/injector cleaner should clean the valves and pistons?
I think Seafoam should be paying You for promoting there product... Great Vid 👍 👊
I have a good question, what if you put lucus oil base every weekend or when you put a full tank of gas? Will it be better for the engine or it won't matter?
Please test Marvel Mystery Oil!!
A waste marvel mystery oil sucks it doesn't work..
Marvel mystery is not good for oxygen sensors and catalayc converters
look up a product called x66p by ac delco. I'm not a spokesperson for them but that product works. You do have to use it in a professional injector cleaning tool. Basically you pour some cleaner in the tool, add some gasoline and put on a compressed air line. Set the fuel pressure on the tool. Pull the fuse on the fuel pump and start the vehicle. Idle the car until the fluid runs out. I have witnessed this product unclog a bad plugged injector. It was like watching an engine smoother after plugging in a loose spark plug wire. What you can do with all the products is put a few drops of each product on a carbon covered part and see which dissolves the best.
Hey Chris, do you think sometime in the future you could do a spot on top tier fuels? I'm really curious to see if they're really better for your engine and help keep it cleaner.
@@Random-ed2xf TOP TIER FUEL does not mean 91 or higher octane. TTTF Is Higher quality fuel.
Great videos ! Have you tried Berryman® B-12 Chemtool® Carburetor, Fuel System and Injector Cleaner ?
Again thank you for all your videos !
Ohh yeah B12 is the best
Looks like you wanna do the fuel cleaner for a while to clean the valves, then do the seafoam treatment to clean the piston heads of the carbon that moves from the intake. Good stuff to know. I'll stick with the seafoam though.
"This stuffs actually purple"
Every Royal Purple user ever (original comment stolen by Alex Greenwood)
+Mark Rampersad lol
ChrisFix could you do a test to prove whether spraying water into your engine works? and how that compares to these other remedies
ChrisFix have you tried just plain old water?
He mentioned in one of these videos that plain water would be one of the tests.
Marvin Harrison Smith II Chavez you ever heard of hydro lock
There is a big mistake being made that by just filling half a tank of gasoline to a full can of the fuel system cleaner will yield better results because the the mixture will be more concentrated that way. But it that's not how these products work. The dilution they recommend is the proper amount that is mean to be effective and the product is specifically meant to yield the best results when it's run for a FULL tank of gas and allowed to remove carbon build up slowly, just as it got built up in the first place. By using only half a tank of fuel, you are effectively cutting in half the amount of time and repetition that the product would have had to have it's full effect on the carbon build up versus if you had actually filled the tank all the way, and no, having the mixture be more concentrated by only filling the tank halfway does not make up for cutting the application time in half. As the initial layers of carbon begin to get removed during the first part of the tank of gas, a fair amount of it will end up getting deposited downstream, as you can even see in this video, but if you run a full tank instead of a half a tank, during the 2nd half of that tank, the carbon that got deposited downstream eventually starts to dissipate as well and the areas upstream get even cleaner during the 2nd half of a full tank. Some things just work better over time at the proper ratio rather than all at once at a higher mix ratio. This is one of those times.
I would want to see a vehicle with history of regular fuel treatments and Tier 1 gas vs a cheap gas and no cleaners. My bet is that the carbon takes a .while to blow out so the long term test would be more definitive.
have you ever tried the water method?
try liqui molly every time i use it my car instantly feels like its on roids
Who makes that
Had a bad miss a few days ago (P0302 on cyl 2) on my ‘01 250 5.4 v8 and was 50 miles from home. It was over 100 degrees in So Texas so I knew if we broke down in that heat we would be in trouble. Bought 2 cans of VP Madditive 7 in 1 for $32. Poured in both cans and headed home on the highway. Kept it in 2nd and not d 50 mph as you felt the miss less. Made it home checked the codes and got the P0302. Next day I took truck for a ride to run all the gas out that had the additive. Did not feel the miss. Checked and no codes.Bought another can VP Madditive and will be adding it to next tank. Will post an update in a week.
Yes I erased the 302 code when I parked over night.
did you test marvel mystery Oil !
this product only have acetone, xylene and tuluene, just buy this stuff and add in fuel! for the price of one botthe of this stuff buy 3 liter of the stuff i said
+RbG84 thanks for the tip
add little oil also for lubrication! BTw this stuff if ride Slow will increase MPG if ride hard will spend more fuel because will burn more!! like chip tuning in low speed "less engine stress" spend less because have more power... in high rpm more fuel is required and burn more fast with this stuff
i use in 30l fuel
30/50 ml of pre mixed with xylene, industrial acetone and toluene
in big trips of all fuel or almost all used will add
60 liter
50ml ACETONE and 50ml pre mix with all 3
this big tank id for fuel economy and acetone work well in emissions and smoke
the xylene and toluene in big trips if ride lets say 100MPh or more will spend more fuel and worse MPH , if stay in the 60/80 MPH will increase MPG
max i see is about 15% if ride quietly
and less smoke and old car ride like new
i dont believe in fuel aditive will work riding fast because will always burn better and use more fuel, if have something that always increase MPG will decrease Octane and power for sure
i use more this stuff for emissions and less smoke, and work nice in my petrol car
i dont use diesel car so cant say
Add Yamalube feeling injection cleaner it’s made for Marina application, but the engines and engine works very good
Thanks for sharing, i'll check it out
Berrymans b12 is cheaper and does clean. If you have water in the gas it will get you back to normal. Hope this helps someone. ✝️God Bless✝️