When I was your age I was building crappy go karts out of kids bikes and lawnmower engines. I'm constantly amazed by the quality of what you're building here and I can't wait to see the final result move under its own power.
Can’t wait to watch this channel in 10 years... you can fab up stuff like this and you’re still a kid (compared to me) Keep up the great work and stay safe.... 👍👍👍👍
A couple of things. Wouldn’t folding up the sides make for less welding and leaks? Also since you welded the rivets, why not put flanges on baffles and weld to inside.
I notice on commercial fuel cells they appear to be welded on all edges, but for the price of argon to do that extra welding I could probably make a light duty press brake.
Great project! I would be a bit careful with mounting the tank with those welded alu tabs though. The wieght of the fuel in combination with vibrations may cause cracking of the tank. Would consider mounting it with steel banding/straps instead. Check out Project Binky Ep 13 for example. Keep up the good work!
Absolutely please use straps, not only are those tabs suspect to fatigue, in a collision they will very likely make a bad day much much worse! On the rear left tab you could use a clamp with a rubber grip to hold the tank in place, but allow it to shift in a collision. Other than that, nice job!
I have been a sub here for quite a while and i really enjoy watching you do your projects and grow into a pretty damn good fabricator, thank you for sharing all this 😊 but what about a Q & A ? Tell us a bit about yourself and maybe introduce your old man to us, that would be neat 😊 have a great summer
real nice job outstanding workmanship, you might want to consider using a gas tank coating, you pour it in the tank and it makes a liner (fuel is thinner than water ) it's a good idea to pressure test the tank overnight, on a piece of white paper , you do great work Pete m
I have been building boat tanks (in stainless of course) but the principle is the same. A good drawing, calculating the least amount of welded seams!! All fittings mounted before the final welding process! Pressure test with air pressure and soap water. No fasteners welded to the tank, only support points. The tanks should be secured to the vehicle with isolated metal straps. Don´t forget to isolate the aluminium from other metals (the galvanic corrosion which goes very quickly). Also connection with the cars earth to eliminate the static electricity which can make a giant explosion. I should have chosen stainless for the tank!!
for a marine application stainless is a must, however on a car both are good, and alloy is best here; because of the weight gain (this car only gets a jag small bore six) and the location the tank sits in, unexposed to the elements. besides, do you weld edge to edge, or do you weld with one side folded a few mm underneath, when you do thin sheet tanks? i was wondering.
@@comethiburs2326 That depends on the tank size and shape. In boats they can have weird designs but for a relatively cubic tank less than 75 liters the 1.5 mm steel will do fine and welded edge to edge. You must consider the risk of a crash that could damage the tank. It´s not fun to be sprayed with petrol!
Nice work, again. There's a stuff they sell for "router mat". Kind of very grippy rubbery material. It works well in that application, and I think it would work a lot better than the cardboard sheet you're using when nibbling the sheet aluminium
Awesome project! I'm getting ready to go into the Navy as an SW, a steel worker, hopefully some of the skills from that will translate out into other fields like this! Also, have you thought about using a tank liner? It'll definitely help with corrosion and such. I know it's an aluminum tank but you can't be to careful!
Fantastic, I'm gonna watch the rest of this series... But why didn't you fold the tank from a larger piece? By my count, you could have avoided welding 4-6 seams with folds...
Nice work! question: Why didn't you weld it on the inside too? Wouldn't that make it more non-leaking? Keep it up - can't wait to see you drive it eventually!
Looks great. Now comes the engine right? the one thing I have been waiting for ever since this project has started, and you know that..LOL. Can't wait for the next video. Take care buddy
Looking great brother. keep it up. Every time i get down on a project, i watch your videos and it helps me get excited about shop time again. I cant wait to see u out cruising in it. Side note, not sure if u said u are registering or not? Hope to catch you at a car show in the near future!
Great. But add some extra mounting points to the gas tank, it'll weigh 80lb when full. Any G force amd vibration will pull your mounts out and cause a rupture = inferno, and we want to keep you safe. Enjoying your work.
Nice scratch built tank, looking forward to seeing the Gas Cap video. Do you have to use any type of sealer or coating before you fill in with gasoline?
Indeed. Water fill is nowhere near as reliable as low air pressure and soapy water. Tank that size with square corners should take about a pound of pressure.
Yea, I like to make an adapter to fit the fill spout with a piece of rubber radiator hose and a freeze plug with a Schrader valve and hose clamp it in place. Set your regulator to 10 or 15 psi and pressurize the tank and check with soapy water and a spray bottle. If your cap isn't vented you'll need a vent. Early 20s and 30s race cars used a small copper pipe twisted into a cork screw and mounted on the body, looks cool.
Scooter Tramp I agree with Scooter. LP Air and soapy water is a better medium for your application. DO NOT EXCEED 1 psi. If you go much higher than that you risk deforming your tank and possibly crack your welds. In the shipyard I work in, we use 2 psi and hold the pressure for 30 minutes for our 4 and 7 mm steel tanks.
Nice job how’s the Xk engine coming on were did you find it and are you going to do the rebuild yourself it would be interesting to do a breakdown of costing as I’m certain there are lots of people who would like to have a go at building
Don't forget gasoline is not as dense as water, might get a bit of a leak. An air test might also work with a balloon on the spout and a tiny bit of air pressure. I did this when building my Rebel aircraft.
love youre video's. keep.up ths good work! don't you think it was better to put the gascap in the middle like the old boattails got ? grtz from the Netherlands
Neat looking tank. What is the main benefit of using the solid rivets through the tank body to baffle brackets (with welding) over just doing puddle welds onto the baffle brackets?
Welding the bracket onto the tank without using the rivets would a) make it harder to hold the bracket onto the tank (Al not steel so no magnets) b) risk the integrity of the thin metal
Great job on the tank build. Do you plan on applying any type of fuel tank sealer in the tank for a added measure of protection and corrosion resistance?
I suggest cutting some practice pieces and then start on the lowest settings and work your way up. With Aluminum you have to be careful not to melt. I learned at a Tech school and the instructor had us practice with soda cans.
Your rpm on that hole saw is way to fast slow that down and it will cut like butter and use some WD,40 blow the chips away. I do enjoy you work here on this car. You are doing a really good work.
How is the balance of the car? You are on the left side and your fuel is left side. Is there going to be some counter weight on the right? Ethanol gas does nasty corrosion to aluminium.
Can you tell us more about the aluminum welder set up? How many amps, AC? What balance setting and frequency? Just bought a TIG welder for aluminum and I seem to melt the aluminum rather then weld it.
It's a very fine line between melting and welding for aluminum. Heat her up, dab the rod and move. Amperage depends on what thickness of metal you are working with, he's using highfrequency start with AC from the sound of it.
i admire yr efforts and skills and determination to build it all yourself but when it comes to fuel tanks id be using an aproved fuel cell with a bladder being so close seated to it. the weight of the fuel combined with noise vibration harshness will surely result in cracks in areas that are highly stressed. also making it from a mere 1/16th is far to thin, I've made aluminium tanks for vehicles and ive used 2.5mm marine grade and also folded it up where ever possible to reduce the amount of welds hence reduce possibility of cracks. for yr safety don't use that tank !! but thumbs up for giving it a go and keep up the great work
aluminium is a tough material to weld. i wouldnt personnally grind a pinhole unless it's a safety concern, like a pressurized tank. on stainless/mild steel i absolutely would open it up with a cutting disk and make a new pass, unless i cant clear up the shavings inside. cleaning half stuck shavings inside a closed tank is a chore.
Sorry to point it out but when you cut the hole in the top of the tank, you let aluminum shavings into the tank... you don’t want those going into your engine.
Why did you drill holes and make brackets for the baffle plates? Welding them straight on from the inside would have made things alot simpler and aesthetically pleasing. You still need to fit the fuel tank level guager , so one more hole to drill. Don't forget to vent the tank, use a motercycle gas cap, the vent is built into most of them nowadays and there are some really stylish lockable ones for $30 to $70+ or cheap standard unlockable chrome at about $15+ , I'd check out the local scrap yard first though. Good work and good luck.
Ok I trust you, but if it warped, you spent too long on one spot. ......faster ,smoother flow welds, it comes with practice......I am not an expert....So my criticism /Advice is from watching others with similar problems. I used to spray paint heavy machinery and sometimes trucks, cars or bikes,weld abit , so I know basics....and some tips. I'm a Jack of all trades......... A master of none..... If I had your skills and ambition, specially at your age, nothing would stop me, so keep on doing what you're doing. Ambition gains knowledge ,age gains wisdom , failure creates learning, so keep pushing and nothing can stop you. Refusal is just a negotiation point, all professionals will listen to a counter offer . Good luck.
You know what this tank needs? A filler from @craftyb looks period correct and absolutely awesome! I have no affiliation with him just think it would top this off perfectly.
theres a special foam you can put intoo gastanks that prevent the fuel from sloshing around and helps prevent vapour inside the tank www.ebay.nl/itm/332272329768 you might be able to push it in there through the the tankfiller iff the baffles inside the tank are not enough as for finishing the complete tank , i think pressurising it and go around it with soapy water is a better idea , in that there is no water left in the tank and air is thinner than water makes it eazie to spot leaks
If ye’r going to TAJ the car on the track you got to have one of those race car fuel cells with a rubber bladder in them and the anti sloshing around foam. Won’t pass the safety inspection without one. If it just for the street you’re fine.
ive never made any gas tanks before but it seems to me like it would make more sense to have a corner or the bottom lower than all of the other points just so when it gets low its not level and a bunch of gasoline wont be used
Ah, good! Since I'm about a week or so late to the party, I'm glad to see my main thought was already posted. What Kyle described is called a sump, It would kinda suck if you could only consume 8 gallons out of a 10-gallon tank before the fuel pump starts cavitating. Not quite so necessary back in the century when you had 20-gallon tanks on your Buick and gas was 22 cents a gallon...
Ihave done the same many times , I would had thought you could had folded four sides in one piece weld in two ends all done your folder can do it , don’t forget the vent pipe
Nice work, well done. It's a shame to do all this amazing work and than have a live axel! I would mate it with MX 5 suspension and running gear, possibly even disk brakes! It would turn out much more fun, usable and safe
Where did you learn to TIG weld ? I suggest you practice a lot. Most of those joints were simple and easy and could easily have been done without filler. Have you heard of purge ? I have also noticed that no negative or constructive hints are in the comments. If you can't take helpful criticism you will never learn or improve.
When I was your age I was building crappy go karts out of kids bikes and lawnmower engines. I'm constantly amazed by the quality of what you're building here and I can't wait to see the final result move under its own power.
Can’t wait to watch this channel in 10 years... you can fab up stuff like this and you’re still a kid (compared to me)
Keep up the great work and stay safe.... 👍👍👍👍
Searched diy suicide front axle on the youtoobs and wound up binge watching all of the boat tail videos, was not disappointed at.all.
I like to put air pressure in the tank and spray my seams with soapy water from the outside and watch for bubbles to find pinholes.
A couple of things. Wouldn’t folding up the sides make for less welding and leaks? Also since you welded the rivets, why not put flanges on baffles and weld to inside.
I notice on commercial fuel cells they appear to be welded on all edges, but for the price of argon to do that extra welding I could probably make a light duty press brake.
Great project!
I would be a bit careful with mounting the tank with those welded alu tabs though. The wieght of the fuel in combination with vibrations may cause cracking of the tank. Would consider mounting it with steel banding/straps instead. Check out Project Binky Ep 13 for example.
Keep up the good work!
I was sooo thinking of blinky....
also a lower section to collect the fuel and Pump from ?
A fuel gauge ?
I think you're right about the steel straps instead of the aluminum tabs
@@964cuplove Fuel gauge? Two level fuel pickup and a reserve petcock ;)
Absolutely please use straps, not only are those tabs suspect to fatigue, in a collision they will very likely make a bad day much much worse! On the rear left tab you could use a clamp with a rubber grip to hold the tank in place, but allow it to shift in a collision. Other than that, nice job!
You are doing a truly amazing job on your project there! You have talent I wish I had. Keep up the great work. I enjoy your videos... keep em coming.
Neat job on your custom gas tank. I'm looking forward to seeing how you tackle the gas cap.
I have been a sub here for quite a while and i really enjoy watching you do your projects and grow into a pretty damn good fabricator, thank you for sharing all this 😊 but what about a Q & A ? Tell us a bit about yourself and maybe introduce your old man to us, that would be neat 😊 have a great summer
Impressive work and engineering as always.
That is a sexy gas tank! I'm surprised your not casting your own engine block!
Just wait. We're getting there.
Really keen to see what you do with the gas cap !
real nice job outstanding workmanship, you might want to consider using a gas tank coating, you pour it in the tank and it makes a liner (fuel is thinner than water ) it's a good idea to pressure test the tank overnight, on a piece of white paper , you do great work Pete m
Good job lad, don't forget to install a vent, I would recommend a check vent that shuts itself off in the event of a rollover
I have been building boat tanks (in stainless of course) but the principle is the same. A good drawing, calculating the least amount of welded seams!! All fittings mounted before the final welding process! Pressure test with air pressure and soap water. No fasteners welded to the tank, only support points. The tanks should be secured to the vehicle with isolated metal straps. Don´t forget to isolate the aluminium from other metals (the galvanic corrosion which goes very quickly). Also connection with the cars earth to eliminate the static electricity which can make a giant explosion.
I should have chosen stainless for the tank!!
for a marine application stainless is a must, however on a car both are good, and alloy is best here; because of the weight gain (this car only gets a jag small bore six) and the location the tank sits in, unexposed to the elements.
besides, do you weld edge to edge, or do you weld with one side folded a few mm underneath, when you do thin sheet tanks?
i was wondering.
@@comethiburs2326 That depends on the tank size and shape. In boats they can have weird designs but for a relatively cubic tank less than 75 liters the 1.5 mm steel will do fine and welded edge to edge. You must consider the risk of a crash that could damage the tank. It´s not fun to be sprayed with petrol!
Always entertaining to watch, always. 😊👍🏻
Usual nice work and some obvious thought.
Won't you need a vent on that to let the air out when you fill it? I love the fab on this and can't wait to see the gas cap!
JayinMI
Sure. And he probably needs a way for the fuel to get to the engine. He clearly isn’t done with it yet.
And that my friends is how you bust out one awesome guess tank.
Nice work, again. There's a stuff they sell for "router mat". Kind of very grippy rubbery material. It works well in that application, and I think it would work a lot better than the cardboard sheet you're using when nibbling the sheet aluminium
Love your work and videos!!!
I think your need more holes in the baffel plate inside your tank.
Looking good. Thank you for sharing.
Awesome project! I'm getting ready to go into the Navy as an SW, a steel worker, hopefully some of the skills from that will translate out into other fields like this! Also, have you thought about using a tank liner? It'll definitely help with corrosion and such. I know it's an aluminum tank but you can't be to careful!
The tank looks great
Lookin good. Love the alum. work.
Looks great and fits the space well. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Fantastic, I'm gonna watch the rest of this series... But why didn't you fold the tank from a larger piece? By my count, you could have avoided welding 4-6 seams with folds...
Nice work! question: Why didn't you weld it on the inside too? Wouldn't that make it more non-leaking? Keep it up - can't wait to see you drive it eventually!
Looks great. Now comes the engine right? the one thing I have been waiting for ever since this project has started, and you know that..LOL. Can't wait for the next video. Take care buddy
For a little inspiration; check out Rizoma gas caps (they have a motorcycle focus), might find something to steal. :)
Looking great brother. keep it up. Every time i get down on a project, i watch your videos and it helps me get excited about shop time again. I cant wait to see u out cruising in it. Side note, not sure if u said u are registering or not? Hope to catch you at a car show in the near future!
Looks so cool
Nice work, can't wait to see what you do for the cap. :)
Excellent well done.
Hell yeah awesome job I think thanks for the videos.
Thanks for watching!
Great. But add some extra mounting points to the gas tank, it'll weigh 80lb when full. Any G force amd vibration will pull your mounts out and cause a rupture = inferno, and we want to keep you safe. Enjoying your work.
Nice scratch built tank, looking forward to seeing the Gas Cap video.
Do you have to use any type of sealer or coating before you fill in with gasoline?
You don't need to fill tank with water, just pressurize it and apply soapy water to welds. Bubbles shows all the leaks.
Indeed. Water fill is nowhere near as reliable as low air pressure and soapy water. Tank that size with square corners should take about a pound of pressure.
Yea, I like to make an adapter to fit the fill spout with a piece of rubber radiator hose and a freeze plug with a Schrader valve and hose clamp it in place. Set your regulator to 10 or 15 psi and pressurize the tank and check with soapy water and a spray bottle. If your cap isn't vented you'll need a vent. Early 20s and 30s race cars used a small copper pipe twisted into a cork screw and mounted on the body, looks cool.
Scooter Tramp I agree with Scooter. LP Air and soapy water is a better medium for your application. DO NOT EXCEED 1 psi. If you go much higher than that you risk deforming your tank and possibly crack your welds. In the shipyard I work in, we use 2 psi and hold the pressure for 30 minutes for our 4 and 7 mm steel tanks.
Nice job how’s the Xk engine coming on were did you find it and are you going to do the rebuild yourself it would be interesting to do a breakdown of costing as I’m certain there are lots of people who would like to have a go at building
Don't forget gasoline is not as dense as water, might get a bit of a leak. An air test might also work with a balloon on the spout and a tiny bit of air pressure. I did this when building my Rebel aircraft.
Good job!
CAN NOT wait for gas cap
I really enjoy watching you build this lovely car.
love youre video's.
keep.up ths good work!
don't you think it was better to put the gascap in the middle like the old boattails got ?
grtz from the Netherlands
Neat looking tank. What is the main benefit of using the solid rivets through the tank body to baffle brackets (with welding) over just doing puddle welds onto the baffle brackets?
Welding the bracket onto the tank without using the rivets would a) make it harder to hold the bracket onto the tank (Al not steel so no magnets) b) risk the integrity of the thin metal
Muito bom trabalho... tanque chique em parabéns
Great job on the tank build. Do you plan on applying any type of fuel tank sealer in the tank for a added measure of protection and corrosion resistance?
Hey, I just received my AC Tig welder today. Any settings suggestions for 1 and 2mm Aluminium?
I suggest cutting some practice pieces and then start on the lowest settings and work your way up. With Aluminum you have to be careful not to melt. I learned at a Tech school and the instructor had us practice with soda cans.
Your rpm on that hole saw is way to fast slow that down and it will cut like butter and use some WD,40 blow the chips away. I do enjoy you work here on this car. You are doing a really good work.
Don't forget to bond the tank to the frame well. Don't want a static charge going off while filling.
How is the balance of the car? You are on the left side and your fuel is left side. Is there going to be some counter weight on the right?
Ethanol gas does nasty corrosion to aluminium.
Can you tell us more about the aluminum welder set up? How many amps, AC? What balance setting and frequency? Just bought a TIG welder for aluminum and I seem to melt the aluminum rather then weld it.
It's a very fine line between melting and welding for aluminum. Heat her up, dab the rod and move. Amperage depends on what thickness of metal you are working with, he's using highfrequency start with AC from the sound of it.
It is beautiful. But I would have done was use a racing fuel cell made to withstand crashes and has foam inside.
Tip: welding seals good to check with kerosene as it lighter than water and chalk. U dont need to fill fully, just spray.
What welder do you use?
Thanks great job👍🏻
You should consider using a mic when you're talking and evening out the volume in your different segments
i admire yr efforts and skills and determination to build it all yourself but when it comes to fuel tanks id be using an aproved fuel cell with a bladder being so close seated to it. the weight of the fuel combined with noise vibration harshness will surely result in cracks in areas that are highly stressed. also making it from a mere 1/16th is far to thin, I've made aluminium tanks for vehicles and ive used 2.5mm marine grade and also folded it up where ever possible to reduce the amount of welds hence reduce possibility of cracks. for yr safety don't use that tank !! but thumbs up for giving it a go and keep up the great work
are you on lehigh's fsae team? your skills kill it!
Enjoyed
I’m impressed, not a single tungsten dip. Unless of coarse they were edited out 😀.
I understand you are studying mechanical engineering. What part of that field are you interested in ? Thanks
Hey! You've got that can of denatured alcohol awfully close to your welding area! Love your welding though.
Well you have any type of fuel gauge for this car? Maybe as part of the gas cap?
Hey Marco I recommend using kerosene for testing your tank if you have any it is thinner than water
If you have a leak, should you not grind back, then reweld? Just curious, never actually tried welding, although I really want to.
aluminium is a tough material to weld. i wouldnt personnally grind a pinhole unless it's a safety concern, like a pressurized tank. on stainless/mild steel i absolutely would open it up with a cutting disk and make a new pass, unless i cant clear up the shavings inside. cleaning half stuck shavings inside a closed tank is a chore.
@@comethiburs2326 thanks for that, very informative.
Sorry to point it out but when you cut the hole in the top of the tank, you let aluminum shavings into the tank... you don’t want those going into your engine.
Why did you drill holes and make brackets for the baffle plates? Welding them straight on from the inside would have made things alot simpler and aesthetically pleasing. You still need to fit the fuel tank level guager , so one more hole to drill.
Don't forget to vent the tank, use a motercycle gas cap, the vent is built into most of them nowadays and there are some really stylish lockable ones for $30 to $70+ or cheap standard unlockable chrome at about $15+ , I'd check out the local scrap yard first though. Good work and good luck.
That's exactly what I tried doing first, but the aluminum was warping horribly so I scrapped it and riveted them instead.
Ok I trust you, but if it warped, you spent too long on one spot. ......faster ,smoother flow welds, it comes with practice......I am not an expert....So my criticism /Advice is from watching others with similar problems.
I used to spray paint heavy machinery and sometimes trucks, cars or bikes,weld abit , so I know basics....and some tips.
I'm a Jack of all trades......... A master of none..... If I had your skills and ambition, specially at your age,
nothing would stop me, so keep on doing what you're doing. Ambition gains knowledge ,age gains wisdom , failure creates learning, so keep pushing and nothing can stop you.
Refusal is just a negotiation point, all professionals will listen to a counter offer . Good luck.
Beau travail
Hi from Russia!
You know what this tank needs? A filler from @craftyb looks period correct and absolutely awesome! I have no affiliation with him just think it would top this off perfectly.
very nice. That much welding can be tedious.
At this moment the video has 9 views and 8 likes (one of them is mine, of course), good job! 👍
reproductions? I'm guessing you are talking about views lol
@@darkwatersband right, thx, already fixed it
@ 10:59 I stopped to say, watching you drill through the tail panel hurt, I understand why but it still hurt!
Every design has a bug in it!!! LOL 🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪🤪
Do not forget to proper electrically earth it to the frame.
Seems like thin gauge for an aluminum tank.
I wish I was you.👍
I would of went with a 4cyl it would be more correct
theres a special foam you can put intoo gastanks that prevent the fuel from sloshing around and helps prevent vapour inside the tank www.ebay.nl/itm/332272329768
you might be able to push it in there through the the tankfiller iff the baffles inside the tank are not enough
as for finishing the complete tank , i think pressurising it and go around it with soapy water is a better idea , in that there is no water left in the tank and air is thinner than water makes it eazie to spot leaks
If ye’r going to TAJ the car on the track you got to have one of those race car fuel cells with a rubber bladder in them and the anti sloshing around foam. Won’t pass the safety inspection without one. If it just for the street you’re fine.
ive never made any gas tanks before but it seems to me like it would make more sense to have a corner or the bottom lower than all of the other points just so when it gets low its not level and a bunch of gasoline wont be used
Ah, good! Since I'm about a week or so late to the party, I'm glad to see my main thought was already posted. What Kyle described is called a sump, It would kinda suck if you could only consume 8 gallons out of a 10-gallon tank before the fuel pump starts cavitating. Not quite so necessary back in the century when you had 20-gallon tanks on your Buick and gas was 22 cents a gallon...
Put Red Food coloring in the water
Ihave done the same many times , I would had thought you could had folded four sides in one piece weld in two ends all done your folder can do it , don’t forget the vent pipe
a large part of this was just baffling
Nice work, well done.
It's a shame to do all this amazing work and than have a live axel!
I would mate it with MX 5 suspension and running gear, possibly even disk brakes!
It would turn out much more fun, usable and safe
Good thing its air cooled, so you wont need to make an -actual water tank :P
VG
Where did you learn to TIG weld ? I suggest you practice a lot. Most of those joints were simple and easy and could easily have been done without filler. Have you heard of purge ? I have also noticed that no negative or constructive hints are in the comments. If you can't take helpful criticism you will never learn or improve.
I am surprised with all your attention to detail, you didn't set the tank to the passenger side to help compensate for the drivers weight?