Creality K1C 100 Hour review
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In today's video, we dive into Creality's latest release, the K1C, to determine whether it lives up to the hype as a reliable 3D printer. We'll explore its key features and put it to the test with prints using different filaments. Stick around to see if the Creality K1C is the real deal for your printing needs!
Patreon: / twomoose
Items used in this video:
Creality k1C: shrsl.com/4lj1u
Creality Space Pi Filament Dryer: shrsl.com/4lj1v
Amazon Links:
Creality k1C: amzn.to/4acviv6
Creality Filament Dryer: amzn.to/3IKV9yl
Silk PLA: amzn.to/43ozuWj
Sunlu pla plus: amzn.to/3uL3GOF
Tpu 95A: amzn.to/48WtchJ
Carbon fiber pla: amzn.to/3veNwNG
3D printing Accessories:
Brim Remover: amzn.to/3TRH1dK
All Two moose design links: linktr.ee/twom...
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shrsl.com/4grd6
First thing I did was get rid of that build plate and put in a textured pei. then installed a riser for the lid. finally removed the ptf tube from the chain. So now its much easier to load filament. I have been running this machine round the clock for nearly a week. This thing has been running awesome. mine did come with an extra nozzle.
You have the K1C not the K1? You had no issues without the rubber nozzle wiper? I wasn’t sure if it would register the same without it. It does nozzle touch on it so it would probably account for it being gone 🤔 I’m glad they started including an extra nozzle as they should.
Thanks for watching everyone! I appreciate you all!
FYI, you can use any PEI plate that is designed for the creality printers. During the nozzle wipe routine it probes to see if there is a wipe brush there and acts accordingly, so it will still work without it.
I gotta be honest...I received mine today along with the filament dryer like in the video. Printed a Benchy at .01mm in 16 minutes and a .01mm 600s Test. Both came out perfect...yes literally perfect. Maybe I got lucky with this machine but I would highly recommend the K1C. Creality has a promo you can sign up for...17% off. Note: Also, I didn't need to glue the plate. Follow the manual to the tee in setting everything up and you are set to go.
Mines been great 🤷🏼♂️ I haven’t had any issues either. I just wish they would add adjustment knobs to the bed.
where do you sign up for 17% off?
creality watching this when making their new printer "Hmmmmm he said name it the k2 THATS GENIUS write that down write that down" (the newest printer released for pre-order is k2)
Is the FLASHFORGE AD5M PRO better than this?
what would be your pick for a first 3Dprinter having 1500$ budget given the surface smoothness and bigger print size as a wish?
Bambu X1C with an AMS if you want a larger printer than that the qidi Xmax 3 has treated me well.
doesnt adding shims under bed defy the purpose of auto leveling?
Yeah, I wish they would just add knobs to make the micro adjustment’s.
It's totally a marketing thing.
At least it prints nicely 🤷🏼♂️
Carbon fiber filament is not the greatest thing, it's just more stiff and more brittle. ASA material is best for outdoor application under the hot sun and cold. PA6/PA12 for engineering components.
Thanks for the input! I’ve had great luck printing ASA
I'll show you a hot end.
I’d love to see it 😍
Lmao nasty ass
My k1c bed mesh looks a LOT better than yours. mine is about .25 millimeter front to back on all sides. I'd take mine back if it was a ski slope like that. Also, In orca set your bed temp to 65, tell it it's got a hardened steel nozzle, and KRC 60. After that it prints awesome.
I’ll check that out thanks
When will they just get it right. Open a box and print. You need to put shims? LOL
I wish they would just let me adjust it, I hate the shims 😆
K2 bambu killer soon
General Question to all: On the screen under Movement/Temp there are speed options of...Ultrafast 125%, Standard 100%, Stable 50%, and Silent. What print speeds (mm/s) each of these equivalent to??? Also, which of these speeds are recommended for PLA, Hyper PLA, and Carbon.
I run everything in standard so im not sure what the actual speed outputs are for those on screen settings. I set all my filaments and perimeters in the slicer but the hyper pla is designed to print at high speeds.
Cool...I do the same...run in Standard.@@TwoMooseDesign
watch Nathan Builds Robots videos where he shows carbon is a safety hazard printing and handling afterwards.
There is a simple solution for the sheets "Creality K1C Silicone Nozzle Cleaner Mod Easy Bed Plate Swap" on printables.
Carbon fibre filaments are mostly not stronger, they are stiffer and some filaments profit regarding warping from the fibre, like Nylon eg.
You’re killing it on RUclips these days - good information and good quality. Congratulations and keep up the good work.
Thanks! I appreciate it 🙏🏼 We should be cranking out videos on a regular schedule now
I have a hard time finding the right settings for my k1 max I have calibrated my k1 max and done everything to solve my problem. my bearings look too damned and I can't get the machine to run properly. I've tried setting up clipper and orca slicer but I can't get it to work. I run with normal PLA which is not too high speed but they are normal PLA. if you have a good profile I can test with and how you set it in clips, i.e. fluidd, maybe I can get my k1 Max to work as it should, they feel like the machine sometimes does a little what it wants. So please share your settings or make a video of how you set up both fluidd and your slicer with all settings would be great if it could be solved and help get my k1 max up and running and enjoy my prints. also want to say good video this you do a good job.
Hey! What’s the printer doing or not doing? I mainly run the stock profiles and then tweak them slight as needed.
@@TwoMooseDesign They feel like the machine is going fast and they feel like I might have missed something. they become like my edges go out of the printer because of too low flow or too low or high speed.
You might have the bad extruder. I would buy the newest version or see if customer support will send you one. It’s hard to tell without seeing your prints or the machine running. Possibly try posting in the k1/k1 max facebook group. Without seeing anything it’s hard to say but under extrusion is an issue with the K1 max and the extruder is usually to blame especially on the first generation models.
@@TwoMooseDesign I have the latest one as far as I know I contacted them to get the newer one and got it sent. I don't know how I can show you here, unfortunately, as it is not possible to send pictures.
Will they release a k1c max with 300x300x300 print size?
I don’t know but they are coming out with a K2 that’s 350x350x350 in a few months
@@TwoMooseDesign thanks! Will wait for it then
It will also have multi color 🙌🏼
Carbon fiber support is less marketing, and more what consumers are demanding. Like most cases, it's not primarily based on objective factors, but more on consumer perception that CF is "better." Having printed in Onyx for several years, there's a marginal increase in strength, but you'd only really take advantage of it in engineering applications.
watch Nathan Builds Robots videos where he shows carbon is a safety hazard printing and handling afterwards. In USA you seem to have no proper health insurance and no care for your heath too. While that is fine in saving insurance money, why make your heath worse and pay money to Creality or other chinese company?
How are the quality of this compared to the elegoo Saturn 3 ultra?😊
I haven't used that printer so I cant really help you sorry!
@@TwoMooseDesign I guess I Can ask - how is the quality compared to a resin printer? I am thinking for printing minis for Dungeons and dragons.
Resin and plastic are 2 seprate things entirely (Saturn 3 (Resin)) This is PLA, PLA+ ABS etc.. if you want high quality models to paint for DnD stick to resin, if you want large easy to spray paint scenery, stick to plastic. Keep in mind Resin is toxic and a pain in the @$$ to manage and ventilate properly. PLA is relatively easier to manage.
@@spotsworth7805 yea but filament is so much more intricate to troubleshoot than resin.
are they going to do a max of this machine?
I do not know but I would absolutely love a 2.0 version of the max!
Damn I wanne get a printer and print stuff for my starwars friends :)
Carbon fiber pla and petg are pretty bad but carbon fiber nylons and paht cf or other Bambu lab filaments have a really good performance compared to their non infused fiber versions
Awesome! I’ll definitely have to experiment with those
How do you tell what generation k1 printer is on the market? I don’t see it listed specifically on crealitys website.
hey! You can tell by the extruder, if you look in the k1 and k1 max facebook group theres a bunch of threads talking about the differences to tell whats what.
At what speed did you print the TPU?
would you say this printer is begginer friendly? or should i go for something else
Absolutely, set up and operation are easy. You can use multiple softwares as well, I prefer orca but it’s personal preference
Are the links working with anyone else?
I fixed them. Thanks for letting me know
do a x max 3 review
I did, it’s a good printer. Like most of them it has its ups and downs. Watch my last video. Thanks for stopping by!
oh ok thanks!
is this a good printer for first 3d printer or is this overkill ?
If you have the budget I think it is. Bambu is great too but a little more pricey. Generally the cheaper you go the more tinkering and messing around you will have to do. Bambu was my first printer and it saved me a lot of frustration.
@@TwoMooseDesign what bambo you recommend for first printer ?
The P1S is a great option, if you can afford the AMS I would recommend that too. It makes life a little easier. The X1C is the top of the like but pricey. The P1P is totally fine too but it’s not enclosed which is required for some filaments. Most likely you will print with PLA for a while which is fine for most things except outdoors which does not require an enclosure. Todays printers are far less intimidating as they once used or be and websites like Printables and thingiverse have tons of free files to print.
@TwoMooseDesign I just want a good quality printer for printing fpv planes and rc cars this kind of stuff
And some thing that will not make so much noise
Then I would buy the P1S as it’s enclosed you’re going to want to use something like ABS or ASA for outdoor use. The K1C is more than capable too again what ever printer you go with I’d get an enclosure for those types of filaments
I'm just going to say... bambu videos never include needing to print a leveling piece to make the bed work
You’re right, I have a Bambu as well it’s a great printer. It also has a higher price tag and is not open source. I personally don’t care about it being open source but to some people it’s a big deal
@@TwoMooseDesign they dropped the a1 mini down to 250 and I'm torn between it and waiting for the phrozen arco
I haven’t used a Bambu mini but for $250 it seems pretty legit. Especially if it’s a first printer.
I just bought the qidi max 3 or whatever it is.
It’s a good printer. It’s massive
@TwoMooseDesign can't wait to start printing some big stuff and this new filament from polymaker. You helped my my decision making progress thank you.
can you do 2 or 3 colors at the same time?
No only Bambu can currently do that. Creality has a machine coming out in July that can print multi color
I can't get my k1c to extrude. When I use the extrude function, the material is actually retracting. What am I doing wrong?
You might have a piece stuck in there. Pull the cover off so you can see the gears. You could also have a clog, if that’s the case heat it up to like 240 and shove the little needle up the nozzles to help clear the clog. It could be a number of things but those would be the easiest to check
@TwoMooseDesign hey there! These are all the things I've already tried. I had one clog that required a new hot end. Then I broke the wires on the extruder stepper motor so I replaced that part and now I don't know what to do
Have you changed any settings or tried rooting the printer? If so I would factory reset it. My next guess would the the extruder but If you replaced it I’m not sure. If it just clicks it typically has some resistance/clog I would make sure your nozzle is actually heating up too.
@TwoMooseDesign I have factory reset and still won't work. Can you confirm which plug the stepper motor plugs into?
I can also confirm that the hot end is hot as I can manually get the filament to come out the hot end.
There is also no knocking sound coming from the extruder.
I had the same issue and finally solved it with pushing harder the filament on the back 😅
Hi, Are you using orcaslicer with your Creality K1C?
Yep!
Great review! 😃
Thanks for watching!
'a bunch of hours' lol
My K1 still prints like new after 46 days/1,100 hours of print time
I said it wasn’t a bunch of hours
Would you suggest the k1c or the flashforge 5m pro? They are the same price for me.
I personally haven’t used the flashforge so I can’t help you with that one. Looks like a nice printer 🤷🏼♂️
@TwoMooseDesign oh okay, thanks.
@@TwoMooseDesign do you think the k1c is worth 800 cad after tax?
I do yeah, or wait for a sale. They run them on all major holidays. Bambu is great too but even higher price tag. Pretty much any decent printer like this is going to run you $500-600 usd.
@TwoMooseDesign alright, thanks for letting me know
When it came to buying a new super fast printer I did not even consider the Creality machines, after buying 5 different models of Creality printer I know just how janky they can be, I bought the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon and AMS and I know I made the correct printer!
I love my Bambu printer it’s been great, no complaints
very happy with my p1s as my first 3d printer!
@@TwoMooseDesign One thing those Creality printers taught me was how to repair and them when they went down as I learned how they worked
@@peterpeter5666p1s with the AMS is the best bag for your money in my opinion. Great printers
@@AndrewAHayesdefinitely a little more finicky than my Bambu but they are getting better. Just need to stop rushing them to market and have better QC
After hundreds of hours tinkering and upgrading my Creality Ender V2, I'm grateful for the learning experience. However I would never buy another Creality machine. I love my Bambu Lab X1C.
I have the Bambu X1C as well, great machine
still using the ender 3 pro. Will definitely get the a1 mini ams. 1000% will skip this model.
That looks like a solid printer too. I haven’t used one but my X1C is great too
I believe the C in K1C stands for Camera not for Carbon. That's from a Creality sales guy at a convention booth.
Great review thanks,
looking at upgrading from a Ender-5 pro. looking forward to it.
Thanks for watching! I appreciate it and I got that off their website, he must not have read the brochure lol “The K1C, as indicated by the "C" in its name, stands for "Carbon" and introduces support for wear-resistant filaments like PLA-CF, PA-CF”
I've been dealing with a bambulab x1c that has never worked. Bambulab has sent a new bed, psu, hotend assembly, for me to install. I have spent over 100 hours disassembly, installing parts, and reassembly. None of it worked. Bambulab eventually told me my warranty had run out and told me to kick rocks. It has been a horrible experience beyond compare for a $1600 product. I refuse to give them another dime. I am seriously looking at a Qidi or a k1c max if they release one.
Creality is coming out with a K2 that has multi color. And sorry to hear that I’ve had no issues with mine. The qidi x max 3 is pretty good too
How would this stack up against the Qidi X-Max 3 for print quality everything els ?
I have a video comparing the k1 max and the x max 3. Both good printers but the x max 3 had a better first layer resulting in better first layer adhesion
i have the last version of the k1 the worst thing is that stupid build plate! you do need to buy a PEI plate ather then that its solid and yes if they made that printer 5mm taler !
Yeah not sure why they tried to cram everything in the top.
Carbon fiber filament is not really stronger, since the fibers are basically cut into small pieces to fit inside the filament, but these filaments sometimes look better because they are matt