Just a few important points to add about the portable A/C units and the portable Evaporative Cooling units (Swamp Coolers): On those portable A/C, you should know they are less effective energy usage wise vs a window unit so I would suggest you only use them where installing a window unit is impossible or impractical. Also, the most common version of those portable A/C is the single hose version but it is also the most inefficient version. They make a two hose version that is more efficient but may be harder to find in your local home/DIY store but if you can find one that is the most efficient model to get. With regard to portable evaporative/swamp coolers, these only work in areas were you have low humidity meaning they will not work in regularly humid places like the American South, for example. They will work in regularly arid places like Arizona or places like Sourthern California when the humidity is low. However, in my experience they will not cool down the room much on extremely hot days. Stay away from the small tabletop/desktop models as I have never seen those work well enough at all to be worth it.
A good review. We picked up 2 portable units when our old central unit's capacitor failed on the forth of July. (Just changed out that old 35 year old unit yesterday.) The portables work, keeping the house livable but don't compare to the central unit. Draining the condensation is a pain depending on the outside humidity.
Thanks for the explanation! My issue is: can anyone actually post a video about a legitimate portable ac unit where access to a wondow is limited. I understand windows units are most effective and the "portable" units I am looking for are less efficient, but can I please get a video that addresses that? I can't have a window mounted unit or needs window access and while I have something considered as central air, I just need something to get me through the night without sweating my soul away. So am I searching wrong looking for a "portable" ac unit? Because based on this video, I need the one that requires ice and water. Signed, 😓
@@dianasaetern I don’t know the size of your industrial space your trying to cool but if it’s small enough for an AC Unit then a duel hose portable AC unit might be something you could adapt to the situation but even better would be a mini-split AC unit. It would cost more then a portable AC unit but less then a full AC installation. Installing a mini-split isn’t as simple as a portable or window Ac unit but less complicated then a full AC system. I should clarify that I am not a licensed heating/AC installer so i’m speaking based on my own research and watching many videos of YT on the various AC options from experts on the subject.
One thing not mentioned about the portable AC: I have that exact model they show in the video, the LG. In order for it to evacuate the heat out of the window, it has to suck air from the room. This means if you are in a small room, or an enclosed room, it will suck air and create a pressure. When I use mine, it actually sucks hot air from underneath my door to compensate for the air going out the window. The portable AC is really only good to assist a central AC, or when you need to take the edge off. (I'm in Central Florida, btw)
I'm surprised these things are not banned. Install one of these portable ac units in a well sealed home, you will get carbon monoxide poisoning if you have a gas water heater.
I modified mine I blocked the louvers air (intake for the condenser) mine hat another 6" flange in the back that led right into the condenser area but no connection for a 6" intake hose, I bought a second hose kit and made it fit as it is now a 2 hose portable. What a difference. They should only sell 2 hose units
We have used the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
It's that or -20 degrees, freezing. Freezing weather is deadly, hot weather is not as life threatening. Heating and cooling usually cost money. You heard them 5 billion a year on electric bills.
Portable AC is not the best but if you live in an apartment then they often end up being your only choice. I currently used a Sharp air conditioner and really love how it's made. It's still soldiers on for over 7 years. Take good care of your AC and it will take care of you. Clean your intake filters often with only straight water and no soaps and detergents for the detergents leave an invisible fine dust magnet residue after they have dried out. Clean only with straight water.
Was just posting this. Agree completely except not all dual hose units are intake/exhaust. I made that mistake. The one I have has dual exhaust and it's awful! If you don't push doors shut all the way until they latch the negative pressure in the room is so great the doors swing open with a gust of wind. It is clearly sucking all the heat back into the room anywhere it can get it to make up for the air that gets blown out.
Wish they had talked about the mini-split unit. I converted the 1 car garage in my 1960's ranch house into a man cave(Don't worry I also built a proper detached garage/workshop) Installed a Mitsubishi split unit in the converted garage, must say that thing is AWESOME. I think my electric bill is about $20 more in the heat of summer or in the dead of winter. Really happy with my small split unit heating that 26x16 space.
the portable ac unit shown will actually put the room under negative air pressure and is much less efficient than the newer 2 pipe systems that bring in outside air for the condenser and then exhaust it the same way that the 1 pipe system does. Also, the newer units have a sling condenser fan that will pick up moisture from the dehumidification of the evaporator coil and spray it on the hot condenser to increase efficiency and then expel the moisture in the exhaust air. They will still have a bucket for excess condensation under a very humid day with a safety shut off but it isn't always needed.
I took a picnic cooler and installed a Ryobe fan blowing into the cooler and then 2 three inch pipes on each side blowing air from in the picnic cooler out. And I placed ICE inside the cooler. I get temps in my 19x19 room down to 66°F in the room in the summer when it's 103°F outside. Only spent $120 dollars. The door in the room is closed, and the window is covered with blackout curtains. And If a blackout happens, I can run it on solar power with a total of 800Ah batteries.
I've seen dual-hose portables that draw outside air AND INSIDE air to cool the condenser and get dumped outside. Some are pretty lousy at getting rid of water condensate, which could boost efficiency by evaporative cooling of condenser. Enough water collection, and the unit shuts off- don't cool no mo. Not to mention, the thin plastic hoses can dump quite a bit of heat indoors. "Window-shakers" duck those probs. Good luck!
With portable air conditioners, the only thing one must consider is the SACC rating, or seasonally adjusted cooling capacity. And using the SACC rating, figure 20 BTU per square foot for cooling. That means these portable air conditioners are only good for about 500 square feet max, so you will need 2 of them to sufficiently cool down spaces larger than this.
After 60-some years of life, the one rule-of-thumb that sticks in my mind is that the size of a room air conditioner (assuming 8 foot ceilings and two windows) is Length Times Width times 32. So if the room is 20x15, the air conditioner should be 20x15x32 = 9600 BTU. I don't know why I remember this :)
You don't have to dump the portable units with the hose. It uses the heat to evaporate the water taken from the air. The downside to those models, it they radiate heat from the hose back into the room. Wrapping the hose with insulation helps, as does keeping it short.
JD - Would you have any recommendations for a unit like you describe? Been searching for one for my office & can only find the ones where you have to continually empty the bucket...
@@RealRuler2112 Yes. Certainly. Just look for self evaporating units. LG makes a good portable unit that is self evaporating. No condensate pump. There about $450 CDN at Home Depot. Would need to exhaust the hot air so an outside area and all portable units have a short electrical power cord, and maybe and extension will be needed.
I have a lg model i use for supplemental coolingthe master bed/bath . It evaps the water and exhaust it out the back. I do notice that the exhaust tube is warm but plastics are poor conductors so that makes me feel better.
If it has an uninsulated hose.. its radiating heat through that hose. that is a fact that can be confirmed in many ways. Try a cheap IR thermometer pointed at the hose. This is reality. Even with an insulated hose you have some transfer from in the hose to outside the hose... But not as much. This can also be confirmed with the cheap IR thermometer. To deny this is to deny the basic laws of thermodynamics. You might as well say the Earth is flat and only 6000 years old.
Plastic in general are piss poor conductors, of both heat and electricity . There is absolutly heat transfer but it is not significant and insolating it is overkill. You are gaining more heat from the exhaust creating a negitive pressure and drawing in air from leaky points in the house. That house exhaust xyz cubic feet of air / minute that is being sucked into the house through other means, from the outside. More than likely the poor sealing that the exhaust mount in window / door has created
I absolutely do not recommend a portable air conditioner as it is so inefficient because it creates negative pressure in the room causing it to suck in heat from other room/outside and therefore, unable to cool the room as well, but consume more energy.
There are applications where a portable is your only choice. And yes, they don't work well for entire room cooling usually, but I only needed it for spot cooling so I could sleep well and it did that job good enough.
You can also buy reverse cycle ACs for more efficient home heating than straight electric, but I'm not sure if these portable units are any good for that because they create a vacuum inside the home which brings cold air in from all kinds of cracks in the wall.
The window AC units grow black mold fast these days because the manufacturers don't seal the front of the units from the backs, so if you're getting sick once a month, it's probably black mold which is highly toxic. I think it would be less likely to grow mold if the outside portion is under an awning or porch that prevents rain from getting into the back of the unit. Either way, make sure you're looking regularly for black mold and if you see it, get rid of that unit. If you try to clean it and miss a single spore of mold it'll grow right back.
Portables also take air out of the room to dump the hot air outside. This creates a vacuum and pulls air in from elsewhere, usually from hot air rooms or from outside via cracks/air spaces in house. Either way it’s less efficient
I’m surprised they didn’t mention this flaw in the design. There are some portable units that have two hoses to pull in air with in and exhaust with the other, so it won’t create that vacuum in the house.
It's meant for spot cooling, and does a great job at it. Try living in a room that has no air conditioning period and have to work or sleep in there... don't need the whole room cold, just the space around you.
3:10 no! The water evaporating in the swamp cooler to vapor absorbs the heat! The temperature of the water is a minor factor. The heavy lifting is done by the change in state: Liquid to gas. You trade more humidity for a lower temperature. It’s cool but it’s a moist cool.
Have central air, going to add a window AC to my detached garage with a big window Ac that will be added in a fresh cut out section in the garage, then I'll make a cover on it for the winter. Be install on the back side of the garage wall
Don't get Single hose, get Dual hose model. Single hose are inefficient. And avoid LG products. Nothing like them locking up because they need to be emptied, at 3am in the morning!
Generalizations that dual hose portables are more efficient than single hose models are not entirely true. The SACC rating, or seasonally adjusted cooling capacity, and quantity of BTU's is in the end all that matters, and the highest rated SACC portable air conditioner just so happens to be the single hose LG LP1914ivsm model. Dual hose models have their own inefficiencies, you have 2 hoses radiating heat indoors, and you're pulling much hotter outdoor air across the condenser than the cooled air pulled across the condenser with a single hose model. R4.2 flex duct sized up one size, and pulled over exhaust and intake hoses eliminates the heat radiating from them back into the conditioned space and improves efficiency considerably.
@DH but you’re forgetting the fact that the single hose exhaust is going to cause air to be pulled from somewhere else in the home. Most likely cracks, crevices in ceiling or walls etc. For this reason, single hose machines are absolutely not as effective. They may be as effective at producing or blowing cold air, but because of the imbalance in pressure it caused by only exhausting air and not pulling air in, they are not very effective.
@@TrackMagicBeats SACC ratings are the end all, be all in portable air conditioners, and the single hose LG LP1419isvm has the distinction of being the highest rated. I realize single hose models pull in air from where they can, but the air has to make it's way back to the cooled room with the air conditioner, which means the intake air across the condenser will be much cooler than outside air pulled straight in from the outdoors, and that intake hose will also radiate heat indoors, so now you have 2 hoses radiating heat indoors, instead of just one.
means water tank is full, it would beep to warn you, because if it keeps running, the tank will overfill and leak or damage the system, you must ALWAYS search up what it means "portable ac code e4.e5" please
Dual hose portables are the only ones that make sense. Single hose types suck warm air intonthe room as they vent hot air out the hose. That's simple physics. You made the correct choice.
Helpful for sure. We’re renting a condo which has central air, unfortunately it appears the coil etc need to be replaced and the owner likely won’t replace it due to cost, so we’re considering a mobile unit.
2:34 Does anyone have one of these who live in the S.W? We live in AZ and have nothing but disgusting luck with rentals due to moldy mildewy smelling acs.
Portable ones need more watts to run as explained in another video. You are pulling air from inside. Usually a window ac 5,000 btu runs 550 watts while a portable one runs 830 watts. Meaning higher bills and it can trip brakers if you live in a house with many people running a lot of appliances. If you can go for the wall unit.
How can i direct air from my portable air conditioner to the upper bunk bed? My daughter sleeps in the upper bunk, and it's very uncomfortable up there.
Always appreciate free sound advice and tips...so thank you. I would have liked to have heard them explaining the importance of matching the square footage of a room with the BTU. It is an important part of the factor...window AC units are more efficient than the portable ones on casters.
I honestly prefer these over central air, that way you can set your own temperature without having to fight over the thermostat, yes you can do zoning but this is simpler if your house isn't set up for it and then sometimes other people in your house don't even want the central air on especially if you only want one room like a bedroom cooled.
ALWAYS pick the window unit where practical. All portables are uncomfortably noisy. They also start to lose the battle with the heat when it gets to about 90 degrees outside. Really inefficient devices. Portables are a bit of a godsend, but only as a last resort.
I have an Ocean Breeze portable unit, it’s only blowing out half of the vent , cycling on and off every 5 minutes ! I’ll never buy another one of these units, I keep the filters clean, why isn’t it working properly ? It’s only been used 2 summers now, I paid 400 for this piece of junk and I take care of my things ! Is there something I can do to fix it ?
Does portable get super hot if in use all day and night? Also what does an inverter do? I heard this was a good thing? Lastly how many btus is best for a large studio room. My math sucks . Just like to have an idea whats best. For a studio rented room or large efficiency?
Hold on smart gentleman, the ac units that sits on the floor pushes the hot air through the flexible duct to outside, but where does that air get replace from? ahhhh, from inside the house witch comes from the outside into the house. So therefore while you are pushing the hot air out, you are pulling the outside air in, which is also hot. So it is time to go back to the drawing board.
Your thoughts on the portable unit. Why do they use cool air in your house to cool the coil going outside? I’ve seen double hose units but have never looked at one close enough to know if those types take care of that issue.
Y2022, no ventless AC? I have central AC for 1800 Sq ft condo, place is cool at ac set at 73 summer, I just put Duct cleaning in, was that a good idea? Did sealant screw up vents? I also revamped ac inside closet and serviced outside maintenance, it's 98 degrees last night central FL heat index. HOT, & bedroom is only warm room, I have dehumidifier set up when I shower, so what's the deal ? Westerly side of home, white building, but no neighbors above, no AC either. Do I just crank AC to 68 at night? Or can I get a room AC Ventless system?
@@DenwoodNOAA no problem at all. Easy to miss, Richard mentioned renters or people who couldn't afford a central system. However, he did mention it quickly.
We added central air when replacing the furnace a couple of years ago. In Denver we had the option of using evaporative cooling, but I don't like adding humidity and the up keep of those units.
Denver is super-dry already, due to its location and elevation, which is not only damaging to your skin and overall health, but also to your home. Too dry air will pull moisture right out of the structure of your home, potentially leading to cracks, splinters, and shrinkage, which could cause expensive damage, especially to load bearing structures.
Good info, thanks! On a side but related note, if I have both a full-size freezer and a fridge / freezer is it better to have them inside my house or outside like in the garage? I know that they make the house hotter so the AC has to work more but they probably run more efficiently and have a longer life if they aren't exposed to the Texas heat! Can they be ducted to the outside? Just curious to know what setup you recommend! Thanks!
Blakehx You are right it would be better to dump the heat of the fridge outside the house. Theoretically you could get some refridgerant mechanic and let them run the coil on the back of the fridge to outside through the wall. Otherwise than that, it’s a choice to either or pay more for AC energy costs or walk outside the air conditioned room to where you would then keep your fridge. But the time you have your living room door open, probably more cool air gets wasted than what placing the fridge outdoors would save.
It would be better to have a fridge and freezer inside a house. The fridge doesn’t have to work as hard to keep the inside cold because the difference in temperature is not as wide if it were outside in the heat. In addition, fridges and freezers aren’t typically made to withstand the high temperatures of the outdoors and their running life would be reduced because of the added wear and tear.
Modern fridge doesn't heat the house much. The modern fridges are highly efficient and well insulated. Its not worth the cost or effort to re-plumb the cooling system, separating the condenser coils to outdoors. The loss of efficiency due to the fridge beig exposed to higher temperature plus the added wear on the cooling system, by it needng to operate more often, would more than offset any saving by moving the fridge to the garage vs in the house. Save a LOT more money by insulating your garage door. Just glue pink insulating foam sheet inside the door panels. Your garage will be far cooler in summer and warmer in winter. (win-win) and you will have less heat transfer through that wall between the garage and the main house, both summer and winter... Maybe $20 to $30 to do it and it will pay for itself usually in 1 year.
serious question: is there an AC unit that is the reverse of the portable AC unit shown here? Specifically, the mechanical assembly (and drainage) is set on the ground outside, and the de-ressurizing cooling action happens outside too, then two hoses (intake and outlet) circulate air from inside, through the window, through the outdoor unit, and back in again?
The closest is a Spot Cooler Air Conditioner mainly for contractors use. U shaped Saddle Window Air Conditioner unit works next but still needs uses part of a window
Been wondering if anyone knows. I live in an apartment building that still has the old wall heater. It’s a metal cage about 5ft tall and 3 inches depth from the wall. It’s no longer operational. I have the same portable ac unit in this video, the one on wheels with the exhaust tube. Can a wall heater be used to exhaust the heat out with the tube? Just wondering because looking to have a more slick cooling look in my place with less things sticking out the window
You: "How do I choose the best amidst several units" Them: "how to choose the best unit for your situation". I.e. climate, housing, regulations, safety, efficiency.
@@DC... I found the video informative but I agree with OP. The key word was "portable" and they only showed 1 was "portable". I'd agree with you if "portable" wasn't in the title.
Kristina you take the duct from the portable ac and turn it vertically. I borrowed one from a friend when my ac went down last summer and that rectangular piece slid out and extended to cover the length of the window opening.
Can I put this in an 8 by 8 storage building and run it off an extension cord my dogs are outside dogs and my dogs and I would like to get them some type of way to cool off
can you mount a window unit through the wall??? Have a new shed delivered next week and no windows! can I just mount the current window unit i have in a hole in the wall?
Sure you can! Just build the frame around it slide it in there and then brace it on the outside with the braces that are provided. Easy peasy. Just make sure your measurements are right when you cut the hole in the wall
Portable ACs don't work well with casement (crank windows). Because the window cranks open, there is a very large gap that isn't sealed, so the hot air from outside comes inside.
Is it possible to add a portable air conditions and connect to the heating duct so that portable a/c can be placed in garage/ pump room away from room. This will eliminate the requirement to put a duct out through window opening in the room?
I love my window a/c unit because the setting can be kept on "energy saver" and I don't even have to make the setting very high to cool my entire house!
they also pull cold air out of the room in order to cool off the condenser coil wheras a window unit pulls air from outside over the condenser coil. Window units are far more efficient (except for dual hose portable units which are quite rare)
@@joshdoeseverything4575 theyre very rare perhaps, ubuy actually has affordable dual hose acs that are expensive but affordable and none are outta stock, yet
@PepperMeat If you're home is before 1977 many didn't have insulation. Me and my parents owned a home with no insulation for Summer or Winter It was classed as a cabin and most were built in 1950 by the people that owned the property. Everything had to be sealed off windows and cover doorways to hold in as much heat as possible. As I understand most standard homes by law have to have insulation. With 14x70 trailers depending on the year and what state it was built will vary with quality of insulation. A 2x4 for a standard home is that size. But a trailers rate 2x4 differently due to obvious costs and different regulations 🙄You have to investigate yourself to find the year to know exactly and your state rules. That's my best answer
Technically they're all dehumidifiers, except a dehumidifier is not concerned with air temperature, just humidity. Dehumidifier just blows the cold air across the condenser coils and has a net gain of heat due to heat made by motors.
Do you think that the WattFun 320W (640W peak) or similar power station (e.g., the Jackery 300, or Goal Zero Yeti 200x) can run a portable air conditioner (e.g., 10,000 BTU) for at least for as long as the battery lasts? 🤔 Thank you.
If you go onto Home Depot website you can use the filters to pick which one you need based on room size in sqft. If you live in the desert west coast dry to no humidity get a "swamp cooler". If you live on the east coast lots of humidity use the one with a hose or a traditional air conditioner. Hessaire has good reviews but it's a swamp cooler so unless you live on the west coast it wouldn't work. Wynter (so) is also good and well know in the portable ac unit world. These are good for the humidity. Bunch of reviews to watch to narrow it down.
Garages are tricky since it depends if there are external walls and whether it's insulated or not. Most homes those walls are not insulated! Plus the garage door itself as it's a leaky mess but can mitigate with the correct sealing done and ensure gaps are kept small, plus insulate the door itself. If it's a metal door and facing south then you got to add a significant amount of btu's just for that. Also, if you just plan to blast the a/c during limited periods rather than constant cool, you'll need a heck of a lot more btu's for that... common btu calcs assume there is a constant cooling effect going on. This is why car air conditioners are massive beasts like 40k btu's for comparably small spaces simply because it has to rapid cool a 100+ degree interior fast. With that said, if you need it just for working out, then a 12k btu spot cooling might be "good enough" where you just vent the cool air directly as close to you as possible rather than expectation to cool down the entire garage.
I live in the Northeast US and I just need a unit that is NOT hooked up or mounted to anything, BUT, will keep my greenhouse cool on sunny winter days. My GH can get up to 100F in winter IF the sun is out. I JUST need an AC unit that needs NO real "installation" and can cool my GH off to about 82F, just cool enough to stop the temps in my GH from reaching 100F and anything above 80-85F when the sun is out. I also do NOT want anything that is put into a window in my GH that will let cold air in. Now, IF the 1 hose AC units can be put in and the hose will NOT let all the cold air in in winter maybe THAT would be okay. My greenhouse is only a 12X8 and about 9 feet tall, maybe cooling that small of a space will NOT be TOO much to ask from a small AC unit. What IF I did get a small portable 1 hose AC unit and NOT hook the hose up to go outside? What kinda air is coming out of that hose anyway? I wouldn't need it to cool off the GH every day, just sunny winter days, in SUMMER, I can put most plants outside anyway. My greenhouse does have a window in it BUT it has a screen in it so I am NOT sure HOW I COULD vent it anyway.
Yes here in Florida we are still in the mid 90's. It is applicable for us. I might not even pull the air conditioners out of our windows during our winter. We will see.
@TerraTN Sure. Absolutely but you need to run a condenser to an exterior area. A split system is a ductless system. The condenser dumps the heat outside. This only difference between a split and a heat pump is that heat pumps (typical home AC) is supply through a series of ductwork on the home. A split system would only cool one area. Usually see them in hotel rooms, small offices, etc
Depends on your budget. Mini-splits work great and are really quiet. How big is the garage? If it's 2 car, that would be a great choice. If it's 3, 4, or bigger, I'd probably recommend a split system with a few ducts. I don't know where you live. Heat pumps are good for mild winters. If you aren't going to maintain the temp, I'd go with natural gas if available. The short answer is have a local HVAC company come out and give you options.
Thanks everyone for their input. It looks like a mini split would be the better choice. I need to add some insulation prior to install according to the articles I read. It’ll be a fun project to undertake in the coming weeks! Thanks!!
Why is this posted in September? And he said the seasons are changing and it’s heating up but the season is going to be fall so it’s cooling down and you need to think about heaters.
can you guys make a video about how to make a template for portable ac units for people that have swing out windows that is easy to make and understand
Hey Richard when I'm using my portable air conditioner why doesn't the humidity drop in the room I'm in I heard that the portable air conditioner creates a vacuum when it sucks air through the fins this in turn draws outside air into the building through any cracks or holes is this true
Because it is causing a negative pressure zone, potentially moisture-laden outdoor air is drawn back into the room through cracks and gaps. This is one reason why they are less efficient than window-mounted AC units.
@@danbo8520 You mean retrofit an existing portable? I'm afraid that is beyond me because the flaw is in the design. Two hose units are intrinsically more efficient but I don't know if you can adapt an existing one-hose unit. The best you can do is try to insulate the hose to prevent heat from re-escaping back into the room.
Portable ac units are terrible. They not only pull in cold air it just generated to cool the hot coils, but it also dumps that air outside, thus lowering the air pressure in the room. This causes air to come into the room through the walls and windows in order to stabilize the air pressure. In other words, not only are you pushing cold air out of the room, you are also forcing air from outside of the room into it. Window AC units are much more efficient in that they only recirculate existing air while only extracting heat. The heat is displaced through the hot side with outside air. So no air pressure loss, and no cold air loss. Avoid portable ac units whenever possible or just get a spilt system.
Depends. Single-hose draw (cooled) air from inside, run it through the condenser, and dump it outside. SOME double-hose draw outside air to pass through the condenser and dump outside; some ALSO draw indoor air to go to the condenser. Go figure. And ... all those hoses are thin-wall plastic (poorly insulated) dumping heat indoors. Of course, single-hose draw outside air into the house to make up for what's sent out. No free lunch.
You would need to fabricate your own hose extension. A trip to the plumbing section at the home center will offer plenty of options but you'll need to be creative.
If you’re interested in putting central air-conditioning which I’ve already got a new furnace and separate heat zone in the basement but I would like to have its own blower for just the air conditioning if possible and it would be central air because all the vents are and everything is done I also have the rods put in for the air-conditioning already installed into the new furnace. If you want a project and it’s a decent price give me a jingle. But only from this platform no other contractor should try to reach me.
A single hose portable AC sucks cool air from the room and dumps it out. That air has to be replaced so it seeps in from the outside all around the house. In other words the room the portable AC is in will cool down while the rest of the house increases in temperature.
Window AC's are much more efficient than portable AC's. Just look at the amp ratings for each, window AC's will usually draw 10-20% less power. They also take up less room and are much cheaper to purchase. If you can't use a window AC, get a dual hose portable AC. The common single hose ones suck air from inside and blow it outside, this creates negative air pressure by blowing some of the cooled air outside. If you live in the mid-west, or any place that gets significantly cold winters. Don't waste money on the AC/Heat pump combo units. Those only work well for areas with mild winters.
gl finding a dual hose, remember some people cant get windows acs, either its to impractical or will never work since they likely have casement windows. either way, someone pointed out that portable acs are more for spot cooling, not for cooling the entire room much. i would use it when it gets hot where i sit
Nothing at all. I leave mine in window all year the white noise from fan helps me sleep better. In winter just run the fan it will not pull cold air from outside and dump it in the room.
Some people can't get central air conditioning because they live in old prewar buildings in NYC. People down south always make remarks about wimdow or wall units. That dont know realize some of is can't have central air because of the way the building is made
A single duct portable AC should be banned. It should have 2 ducts or dual. A single duct puts the house in a negative pressure. The negative pressure causes infiltration of untreated air to enter the house. Basically, the same amount of air that exhaust out of the single duct is pulled back into the house from the path of least resistance. Huge waste of electricity and efficiency. Take the advice of a professional HVAC tech and do not buy a single duct portable AC.
Dual ducts are harder and harder to find at $400 or less price points. BTW since the second duct (going out the same window mount) is pulling air in from the outdoors (and really close to the exhaust) isn't that untreated air too? Do the dual hose models have two air fans like central units. One to blow room air over the cool coils and one to blow outside air over the hot coils (the two air flows never meet) Or is to the same as this LG except the intake is now a hose instead of a grill. If the latter then why bother. In fact I use the unit for a hot spot in a house the HVAC guys have not been able to address. I'm fine with the air vacuuming as it forces some air from the rest of the house to that room, then rechills it. It is a Victorian house. Those are murder on the AC bill and never balanced.
@@STho205 The two duct design is similar to a window unit. Note: not all 2 duct units are made like that. Larger btu may have 2 ducts, but both will be exhaust. Make sure 1 is intake and 1 is exhaust. That means it's pulling air from outside, across the condenser coil, then back outside. There won't be a negative pressure created this way. Remember the negative pressure pulls in untreated outside air that now needs to be cooled and dehumidified. A single duct unit pulls air from inside the house, across the condenser coil, and then outside. I still prefer a window unit.
@@bradclary7463 a proper removable minisplit would be best, if affordable at $400 or $500 and no installation specialist.** Nobody makes that. All these Chinese boxes today (window units or floor portables) mix the intake to room and intake to exhaust. If there is a separation it is a very minimal one like a plastic flap. Not like window units of the 60s. Completely different fans and two sealed air boxes must must add cost the Chinese can't justify. ** a microsplit window unit would have two separate boxes and the coolant lines connecting them through a window ledge yoke/channel. Noisy compressor and hot air intake/exhaust outside. Quiet air handler and air intake blower inside, just recooling the same air in a convection. Both boxes sit against the wall below the window bottom so they don't block the window. Nobody builds this I can find, except for marine applications. I'm no HVAC guy, but if I had the licence, tools and coolant I might experiment with separating a 12,000 btu cheap window unit.
@@STho205 Window units I'm used to have a dual shaft motor and the indoor and outdoor are separated. That little cheap plastic flap is usually to bring in outside air if you choose to. Mini-splits are great, but expensive. Very quiet. Definitely not made for the do-it-yourselfer.
@@bradclary7463 could be though. All they have to do is lock the lines inside a sturdy sleeve that fits into the window opening, instead of putting the whole damned ugly box in the window path.
“Stay cool” he was waiting to say that lol
Just a few important points to add about the portable A/C units and the portable Evaporative Cooling units (Swamp Coolers):
On those portable A/C, you should know they are less effective energy usage wise vs a window unit so I would suggest you only use them where installing a window unit is impossible or impractical. Also, the most common version of those portable A/C is the single hose version but it is also the most inefficient version. They make a two hose version that is more efficient but may be harder to find in your local home/DIY store but if you can find one that is the most efficient model to get.
With regard to portable evaporative/swamp coolers, these only work in areas were you have low humidity meaning they will not work in regularly humid places like the American South, for example. They will work in regularly arid places like Arizona or places like Sourthern California when the humidity is low. However, in my experience they will not cool down the room much on extremely hot days. Stay away from the small tabletop/desktop models as I have never seen those work well enough at all to be worth it.
A good review. We picked up 2 portable units when our old central unit's capacitor failed on the forth of July. (Just changed out that old 35 year old unit yesterday.) The portables work, keeping the house livable but don't compare to the central unit. Draining the condensation is a pain depending on the outside humidity.
Thanks for the explanation!
My issue is: can anyone actually post a video about a legitimate portable ac unit where access to a wondow is limited.
I understand windows units are most effective and the "portable" units I am looking for are less efficient, but can I please get a video that addresses that?
I can't have a window mounted unit or needs window access and while I have something considered as central air, I just need something to get me through the night without sweating my soul away. So am I searching wrong looking for a "portable" ac unit? Because based on this video, I need the one that requires ice and water.
Signed, 😓
Which one would u recommend for a industrial building without a window. I only have a roll up door and a glass commercial door.
@@dianasaetern I don’t know the size of your industrial space your trying to cool but if it’s small enough for an AC Unit then a duel hose portable AC unit might be something you could adapt to the situation but even better would be a mini-split AC unit. It would cost more then a portable AC unit but less then a full AC installation. Installing a mini-split isn’t as simple as a portable or window Ac unit but less complicated then a full AC system. I should clarify that I am not a licensed heating/AC installer so i’m speaking based on my own research and watching many videos of YT on the various AC options from experts on the subject.
Also in window AC units can spread mold when the water builds up and doesn't drain. Or it rains a lot and you got the AC running same time.
One thing not mentioned about the portable AC: I have that exact model they show in the video, the LG. In order for it to evacuate the heat out of the window, it has to suck air from the room. This means if you are in a small room, or an enclosed room, it will suck air and create a pressure. When I use mine, it actually sucks hot air from underneath my door to compensate for the air going out the window. The portable AC is really only good to assist a central AC, or when you need to take the edge off. (I'm in Central Florida, btw)
I'm surprised these things are not banned. Install one of these portable ac units in a well sealed home, you will get carbon monoxide poisoning if you have a gas water heater.
I modified mine I blocked the louvers air (intake for the condenser) mine hat another 6" flange in the back that led right into the condenser area but no connection for a 6" intake hose, I bought a second hose kit and made it fit as it is now a 2 hose portable. What a difference. They should only sell 2 hose units
But don't regular window ac's do the same thing? I'm getting too old to put the window ac in and out.
@brianrose6989 first thing that comes to mind is a garage with a water heater.
We have used the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
“Americans love their air conditioning”... uhh yeah, it’s 102°F outside...
It's that or -20 degrees, freezing. Freezing weather is deadly, hot weather is not as life threatening. Heating and cooling usually cost money. You heard them 5 billion a year on electric bills.
@@hsnwfl7766 in Canada B.C. last few weeks we got up to 45 Celsius (113 farenheit) so yeah, pretty life threatening lol
Fun fact, cooling a room requires WAY LESS ENERGY compared to heating a room.
Lol facts
Cutting your ac off and on uses wayyyy more electric than just leaving it on
Portable AC is not the best but if you live in an apartment then they often end up being your only choice. I currently used a Sharp air conditioner and really love how it's made. It's still soldiers on for over 7 years. Take good care of your AC and it will take care of you. Clean your intake filters often with only straight water and no soaps and detergents for the detergents leave an invisible fine dust magnet residue after they have dried out. Clean only with straight water.
They made a major mistake by not mentioning the dual hose mobile airconditioning. Those ones eliminate a major drawback of any other mobile aircon.
THIS! The single hose will suck air from wherever possible. Pulls hot air in from outside from vents and such. Go dual hose, or don't.
Was just posting this. Agree completely except not all dual hose units are intake/exhaust. I made that mistake. The one I have has dual exhaust and it's awful! If you don't push doors shut all the way until they latch the negative pressure in the room is so great the doors swing open with a gust of wind. It is clearly sucking all the heat back into the room anywhere it can get it to make up for the air that gets blown out.
Even the dual hose units are not that good. Window units are still the best.
GoatZilla Window units might be better (never seen one with my own eyes though), but ductless split unit or even central AC is the real deal.
Lowest price air ticket from Detroit to hong kong
Wish they had talked about the mini-split unit. I converted the 1 car garage in my 1960's ranch house into a man cave(Don't worry I also built a proper detached garage/workshop) Installed a Mitsubishi split unit in the converted garage, must say that thing is AWESOME. I think my electric bill is about $20 more in the heat of summer or in the dead of winter. Really happy with my small split unit heating that 26x16 space.
They didn’t talk about mini splits because the title of the video is PORTABLE air conditioning units. Different topic for a different video
Best dang video that explained all that I needed to know without the BS. They need to bring guys like them back, not diy kids
the portable ac unit shown will actually put the room under negative air pressure and is much less efficient than the newer 2 pipe systems that bring in outside air for the condenser and then exhaust it the same way that the 1 pipe system does. Also, the newer units have a sling condenser fan that will pick up moisture from the dehumidification of the evaporator coil and spray it on the hot condenser to increase efficiency and then expel the moisture in the exhaust air. They will still have a bucket for excess condensation under a very humid day with a safety shut off but it isn't always needed.
As hot as my house is, 80% of the time it is still cooler than outside. Isn't more efficient to cool cooler, less humid air?
I took a picnic cooler and installed a Ryobe fan blowing into the cooler and then 2 three inch pipes on each side blowing air from in the picnic cooler out.
And I placed ICE inside the cooler. I get temps in my 19x19 room down to 66°F in the room in the summer when it's 103°F outside. Only spent $120 dollars.
The door in the room is closed, and the window is covered with blackout curtains. And If a blackout happens, I can run it on solar power with a total of 800Ah batteries.
I've seen dual-hose portables that draw outside air AND INSIDE air to cool the condenser and get dumped outside. Some are pretty lousy at getting rid of water condensate, which could boost efficiency by evaporative cooling of condenser. Enough water collection, and the unit shuts off- don't cool no mo. Not to mention, the thin plastic hoses can dump quite a bit of heat indoors. "Window-shakers" duck those probs. Good luck!
With portable air conditioners, the only thing one must consider is the SACC rating, or seasonally adjusted cooling capacity. And using the SACC rating, figure 20 BTU per square foot for cooling. That means these portable air conditioners are only good for about 500 square feet max, so you will need 2 of them to sufficiently cool down spaces larger than this.
After 60-some years of life, the one rule-of-thumb that sticks in my mind is that the size of a room air conditioner (assuming 8 foot ceilings and two windows) is Length Times Width times 32. So if the room is 20x15, the air conditioner should be 20x15x32 = 9600 BTU. I don't know why I remember this :)
Why x32?.
@@bigred9428 As I recall It takes into account losses through windows/walls/ceiling.
Window a/c units will always work best just choose the correct BTU
I grew up with swamp coolers and I love them. I live in Colorado where its dry.
You don't have to dump the portable units with the hose. It uses the heat to evaporate the water taken from the air.
The downside to those models, it they radiate heat from the hose back into the room. Wrapping the hose with insulation helps, as does keeping it short.
JD - Would you have any recommendations for a unit like you describe? Been searching for one for my office & can only find the ones where you have to continually empty the bucket...
@@RealRuler2112 Yes. Certainly. Just look for self evaporating units. LG makes a good portable unit that is self evaporating. No condensate pump. There about $450 CDN at Home Depot. Would need to exhaust the hot air so an outside area and all portable units have a short electrical power cord, and maybe and extension will be needed.
I have a lg model i use for supplemental coolingthe master bed/bath . It evaps the water and exhaust it out the back. I do notice that the exhaust tube is warm but plastics are poor conductors so that makes me feel better.
If it has an uninsulated hose.. its radiating heat through that hose.
that is a fact that can be confirmed in many ways. Try a cheap IR thermometer pointed at the hose.
This is reality.
Even with an insulated hose you have some transfer from in the hose to outside the hose... But not as much. This can also be confirmed with the cheap IR thermometer.
To deny this is to deny the basic laws of thermodynamics. You might as well say the Earth is flat and only 6000 years old.
Plastic in general are piss poor conductors, of both heat and electricity . There is absolutly heat transfer but it is not significant and insolating it is overkill. You are gaining more heat from the exhaust creating a negitive pressure and drawing in air from leaky points in the house. That house exhaust xyz cubic feet of air / minute that is being sucked into the house through other means, from the outside. More than likely the poor sealing that the exhaust mount in window / door has created
I absolutely do not recommend a portable air conditioner as it is so inefficient because it creates negative pressure in the room causing it to suck in heat from other room/outside and therefore, unable to cool the room as well, but consume more energy.
Yes I made the mistake of getting one and on really hot days it didn't work because of the negative pressure.
There are applications where a portable is your only choice. And yes, they don't work well for entire room cooling usually, but I only needed it for spot cooling so I could sleep well and it did that job good enough.
And we’re publishing this video in September???
I live in the north of Indiana and it's still 80degrees. Not to mention the 150 million Americans who live in almost year around summer...
Mhmm in the south we ONLY have winter for 3 months. It was 92 degrees today in mid September.
The show is produced in the North East. It is kind of strange.
You can also buy reverse cycle ACs for more efficient home heating than straight electric, but I'm not sure if these portable units are any good for that because they create a vacuum inside the home which brings cold air in from all kinds of cracks in the wall.
Cheers from Australia :D 44 celcius here today, I think that's about 117 in us system.
timely post. summer is coming to an end and you post about the season changing and it is heating up
Just go buy a kerosene heater and be happy.
So please tell us the model and brand of the wi - Fi unit !!!!!
I have the same Frigidaire unit you showed and it cools like a dream. It’s pretty light too.
The window AC units grow black mold fast these days because the manufacturers don't seal the front of the units from the backs, so if you're getting sick once a month, it's probably black mold which is highly toxic. I think it would be less likely to grow mold if the outside portion is under an awning or porch that prevents rain from getting into the back of the unit. Either way, make sure you're looking regularly for black mold and if you see it, get rid of that unit. If you try to clean it and miss a single spore of mold it'll grow right back.
Portables also take air out of the room to dump the hot air outside. This creates a vacuum and pulls air in from elsewhere, usually from hot air rooms or from outside via cracks/air spaces in house.
Either way it’s less efficient
I’m surprised they didn’t mention this flaw in the design. There are some portable units that have two hoses to pull in air with in and exhaust with the other, so it won’t create that vacuum in the house.
It's meant for spot cooling, and does a great job at it. Try living in a room that has no air conditioning period and have to work or sleep in there... don't need the whole room cold, just the space around you.
oldtwins na agreed its better than nothing but unless missing a window, I think you’d be better off w/a window hanger unit.
@@oldtwinsna8347 true, but people generally want the room cool, its extremely hard to find a dual hose anywhere!
3:10 no! The water evaporating in the swamp cooler to vapor absorbs the heat! The temperature of the water is a minor factor. The heavy lifting is done by the change in state: Liquid to gas. You trade more humidity for a lower temperature.
It’s cool but it’s a moist cool.
Many window units use the condensate to cool the condenser coils, so there is little if any dripping.
Have central air, going to add a window AC to my detached garage with a big window Ac that will be added in a fresh cut out section in the garage, then I'll make a cover on it for the winter. Be install on the back side of the garage wall
Don't get Single hose, get Dual hose model. Single hose are inefficient. And avoid LG products. Nothing like them locking up because they need to be emptied, at 3am in the morning!
I have my leg for 3 yrs. never dump anything. Run all day and night in my daughter s room
Generalizations that dual hose portables are more efficient than single hose models are not entirely true. The SACC rating, or seasonally adjusted cooling capacity, and quantity of BTU's is in the end all that matters, and the highest rated SACC portable air conditioner just so happens to be the single hose LG LP1914ivsm model. Dual hose models have their own inefficiencies, you have 2 hoses radiating heat indoors, and you're pulling much hotter outdoor air across the condenser than the cooled air pulled across the condenser with a single hose model. R4.2 flex duct sized up one size, and pulled over exhaust and intake hoses eliminates the heat radiating from them back into the conditioned space and improves efficiency considerably.
@DH but you’re forgetting the fact that the single hose exhaust is going to cause air to be pulled from somewhere else in the home. Most likely cracks, crevices in ceiling or walls etc. For this reason, single hose machines are absolutely not as effective. They may be as effective at producing or blowing cold air, but because of the imbalance in pressure it caused by only exhausting air and not pulling air in, they are not very effective.
@@TrackMagicBeats SACC ratings are the end all, be all in portable air conditioners, and the single hose LG LP1419isvm has the distinction of being the highest rated. I realize single hose models pull in air from where they can, but the air has to make it's way back to the cooled room with the air conditioner, which means the intake air across the condenser will be much cooler than outside air pulled straight in from the outdoors, and that intake hose will also radiate heat indoors, so now you have 2 hoses radiating heat indoors, instead of just one.
@@dh2392Medea and others now have these concentric, oval shape single duct with both hot exhaust and intake ducts. Also easier to manage.
DO NOT get the Hisense brand
Mine keeps shutting down every 2 hours with an E5 code.
Cheap Chinese junk.
means water tank is full, it would beep to warn you, because if it keeps running, the tank will overfill and leak or damage the system, you must ALWAYS search up what it means "portable ac code e4.e5" please
I just purchased a Whynter 123OWN 12000 BTU SACC with Dual Hose with Inverter. I have not received it yet. I hope I made the right choice.
Dual hose portables are the only ones that make sense.
Single hose types suck warm air intonthe room as they vent hot air out the hose. That's simple physics. You made the correct choice.
No
@@pilarmartin5051 it works amazingly well.
I need an a/c that doesn’t require an opening like a window. Would that last one you showed work?
clearest explanation of those kind of units, thanks!
Helpful for sure. We’re renting a condo which has central air, unfortunately it appears the coil etc need to be replaced and the owner likely won’t replace it due to cost, so we’re considering a mobile unit.
Ñot
2:34 Does anyone have one of these who live in the S.W? We live in AZ and have nothing but disgusting luck with rentals due to moldy mildewy smelling acs.
Portable ones need more watts to run as explained in another video. You are pulling air from inside. Usually a window ac 5,000 btu runs 550 watts while a portable one runs 830 watts. Meaning higher bills and it can trip brakers if you live in a house with many people running a lot of appliances. If you can go for the wall unit.
How can i direct air from my portable air conditioner to the upper bunk bed? My daughter sleeps in the upper bunk, and it's very uncomfortable up there.
what was that last iption with wi-fi
Always appreciate free sound advice and tips...so thank you. I would have liked to have heard them explaining the importance of matching the square footage of a room with the BTU. It is an important part of the factor...window AC units are more efficient than the portable ones on casters.
The rating you should look for on indoor units is the SACC rating. It's the "true" rating. This accounts for the loss in cooling for these units.
I honestly prefer these over central air, that way you can set your own temperature without having to fight over the thermostat, yes you can do zoning but this is simpler if your house isn't set up for it and then sometimes other people in your house don't even want the central air on especially if you only want one room like a bedroom cooled.
And not every house have room for central ac.
But there's literally no reason to want these over a window AC unit
I love informative videos likes this - brief but right on point!
ALWAYS pick the window unit where practical. All portables are uncomfortably noisy. They also start to lose the battle with the heat when it gets to about 90 degrees outside. Really inefficient devices.
Portables are a bit of a godsend, but only as a last resort.
I have an Ocean Breeze portable unit, it’s only blowing out half of the vent , cycling on and off every 5 minutes ! I’ll never buy another one of these units, I keep the filters clean, why isn’t it working properly ? It’s only been used 2 summers now, I paid 400 for this piece of junk and I take care of my things ! Is there something I can do to fix it ?
Does portable get super hot if in use all day and night? Also what does an inverter do? I heard this was a good thing? Lastly how many btus is best for a large studio room. My math sucks . Just like to have an idea whats best. For a studio rented room or large efficiency?
We have plenty of humidity in the desert southwest , renders evaporative coolers useless for much of the summer.
Hold on smart gentleman, the ac units that sits on the floor pushes the hot air through the flexible duct to outside, but where does that air get replace from? ahhhh, from inside the house witch comes from the outside into the house. So therefore while you are pushing the hot air out, you are pulling the outside air in, which is also hot. So it is time to go back to the drawing board.
That's why they make the two duct version.
@@olddirtbiker5088 they dont make them, barely
Your thoughts on the portable unit. Why do they use cool air in your house to cool the coil going outside? I’ve seen double hose units but have never looked at one close enough to know if those types take care of that issue.
Y2022, no ventless AC? I have central AC for 1800 Sq ft condo, place is cool at ac set at 73 summer, I just put Duct cleaning in, was that a good idea? Did sealant screw up vents? I also revamped ac inside closet and serviced outside maintenance, it's 98 degrees last night central FL heat index. HOT, & bedroom is only warm room, I have dehumidifier set up when I shower, so what's the deal ? Westerly side of home, white building, but no neighbors above, no AC either. Do I just crank AC to 68 at night? Or can I get a room AC Ventless system?
Is there one for an off grids situation.
So, split-mini is out of scope for this video?
A mini-split could be a good choice for many home owners. However, it is a permanent install, so outside the scope of this particular video.
@@horseshoe_nc Ah, my confusion, thank you for the clarification, and the video.
@@DenwoodNOAA no problem at all. Easy to miss, Richard mentioned renters or people who couldn't afford a central system. However, he did mention it quickly.
@@horseshoe_nc yeah no 1 likes permanent installations, even me, please no!
We added central air when replacing the furnace a couple of years ago. In Denver we had the option of using evaporative cooling, but I don't like adding humidity and the up keep of those units.
Denver is super-dry already, due to its location and elevation, which is not only damaging to your skin and overall health, but also to your home. Too dry air will pull moisture right out of the structure of your home, potentially leading to cracks, splinters, and shrinkage, which could cause expensive damage, especially to load bearing structures.
For people that live up north, just buy the inwall a/c units. They are so much better.
I rent the property I reside in. Window units are out also due to having a school child in the house with safety concerns.
Good info, thanks! On a side but related note, if I have both a full-size freezer and a fridge / freezer is it better to have them inside my house or outside like in the garage? I know that they make the house hotter so the AC has to work more but they probably run more efficiently and have a longer life if they aren't exposed to the Texas heat! Can they be ducted to the outside? Just curious to know what setup you recommend! Thanks!
Blakehx You are right it would be better to dump the heat of the fridge outside the house. Theoretically you could get some refridgerant mechanic and let them run the coil on the back of the fridge to outside through the wall. Otherwise than that, it’s a choice to either or pay more for AC energy costs or walk outside the air conditioned room to where you would then keep your fridge. But the time you have your living room door open, probably more cool air gets wasted than what placing the fridge outdoors would save.
It would be better to have a fridge and freezer inside a house. The fridge doesn’t have to work as hard to keep the inside cold because the difference in temperature is not as wide if it were outside in the heat. In addition, fridges and freezers aren’t typically made to withstand the high temperatures of the outdoors and their running life would be reduced because of the added wear and tear.
Modern fridge doesn't heat the house much. The modern fridges are highly efficient and well insulated.
Its not worth the cost or effort to re-plumb the cooling system, separating the condenser coils to outdoors.
The loss of efficiency due to the fridge beig exposed to higher temperature plus the added wear on the cooling system, by it needng to operate more often, would more than offset any saving by moving the fridge to the garage vs in the house.
Save a LOT more money by insulating your garage door. Just glue pink insulating foam sheet inside the door panels. Your garage will be far cooler in summer and warmer in winter. (win-win) and you will have less heat transfer through that wall between the garage and the main house, both summer and winter...
Maybe $20 to $30 to do it and it will pay for itself usually in 1 year.
How to use a window ac unit with a window 🪟 with plantation shutters ?
serious question: is there an AC unit that is the reverse of the portable AC unit shown here? Specifically, the mechanical assembly (and drainage) is set on the ground outside, and the de-ressurizing cooling action happens outside too, then two hoses (intake and outlet) circulate air from inside, through the window, through the outdoor unit, and back in again?
The closest is a Spot Cooler Air Conditioner mainly for contractors use. U shaped Saddle Window Air Conditioner unit works next but still needs uses part of a window
Been wondering if anyone knows. I live in an apartment building that still has the old wall heater. It’s a metal cage about 5ft tall and 3 inches depth from the wall. It’s no longer operational. I have the same portable ac unit in this video, the one on wheels with the exhaust tube. Can a wall heater be used to exhaust the heat out with the tube? Just wondering because looking to have a more slick cooling look in my place with less things sticking out the window
Hi do you know where I can buy a dual hose AC in Sweden?
Nothing about the topic "How to Select a Portable Air Conditioner". You definitely should change the video name.
You: "How do I choose the best amidst several units"
Them: "how to choose the best unit for your situation".
I.e. climate, housing, regulations, safety, efficiency.
@@DC... I found the video informative but I agree with OP. The key word was "portable" and they only showed 1 was "portable".
I'd agree with you if "portable" wasn't in the title.
What options are there for windows that open latterally?
Kristina you take the duct from the portable ac and turn it vertically. I borrowed one from a friend when my ac went down last summer and that rectangular piece slid out and extended to cover the length of the window opening.
Cut a hole in your wall to fit the unit.
Can I put this in an 8 by 8 storage building and run it off an extension cord my dogs are outside dogs and my dogs and I would like to get them some type of way to cool off
I'd just make sure you get a 12 gauge extension cord for it to ensure it doesn't get hot from the load.
can you mount a window unit through the wall??? Have a new shed delivered next week and no windows! can I just mount the current window unit i have in a hole in the wall?
Sure you can! Just build the frame around it slide it in there and then brace it on the outside with the braces that are provided. Easy peasy. Just make sure your measurements are right when you cut the hole in the wall
That last ac unit is a serious cyber security nightmare
@@derk3933 INFINIT HEAT
Portable ACs don't work well with casement (crank windows). Because the window cranks open, there is a very large gap that isn't sealed, so the hot air from outside comes inside.
i have those windows unfortunately, on the side of it theres a sliding window but its too tall,
There are videos on how to use a portable AC with a crank window.
Is it possible to add a portable air conditions and connect to the heating duct so that portable a/c can be placed in garage/ pump room away from room. This will eliminate the requirement to put a duct out through window opening in the room?
Hm... Evap coolers sound great, for the humidity byproduct, up here in the dry Wintery states!
No mention of a mini split?
@KevN There is a thing called a portable mini split. No complex tubing needed.
@KevN www.forestair.ca/en/serie-mini-anglais
@@riopato2009 those things break
Published September 16? You guys are a bit late with this one.
Best time to buy the unit.
Thank you
I love my window a/c unit because the setting can be kept on "energy saver" and I don't even have to make the setting very high to cool my entire house!
Jeff: One family house?
@@eddyvideostar Yes, my house is 960 sq.ft. in size.
Yeah, and nothing happens. It doesn't cool off.
Did not mention wall ac unit.
When you have the hose fully extended these portable units cant even cool a room. The hose gets way to hot
they also pull cold air out of the room in order to cool off the condenser coil wheras a window unit pulls air from outside over the condenser coil. Window units are far more efficient (except for dual hose portable units which are quite rare)
@@joshdoeseverything4575 theyre very rare perhaps, ubuy actually has affordable dual hose acs that are expensive but affordable and none are outta stock, yet
They insulated vent pipe to make sure less heat is transfered inside the house during the removal of the air.
what if you dont have insulation?
@PepperMeat If you're home is before 1977 many didn't have insulation. Me and my parents owned a home with no insulation for Summer or Winter It was classed as a cabin and most were built in 1950 by the people that owned the property. Everything had to be sealed off windows and cover doorways to hold in as much heat as possible. As I understand most standard homes by law have to have insulation. With 14x70 trailers depending on the year and what state it was built will vary with quality of insulation. A 2x4 for a standard home is that size. But a trailers rate 2x4 differently due to obvious costs and different regulations 🙄You have to investigate yourself to find the year to know exactly and your state rules. That's my best answer
Technically they're all dehumidifiers, except a dehumidifier is not concerned with air temperature, just humidity. Dehumidifier just blows the cold air across the condenser coils and has a net gain of heat due to heat made by motors.
Do you think that the WattFun 320W (640W peak) or similar power station (e.g., the Jackery 300, or Goal Zero Yeti 200x) can run a portable air conditioner (e.g., 10,000 BTU) for at least for as long as the battery lasts? 🤔 Thank you.
What size portable ac unit do I need to cool a 2 car garage? I need it to workout in the summer
If you go onto Home Depot website you can use the filters to pick which one you need based on room size in sqft. If you live in the desert west coast dry to no humidity get a "swamp cooler". If you live on the east coast lots of humidity use the one with a hose or a traditional air conditioner. Hessaire has good reviews but it's a swamp cooler so unless you live on the west coast it wouldn't work. Wynter (so) is also good and well know in the portable ac unit world. These are good for the humidity. Bunch of reviews to watch to narrow it down.
Garages are tricky since it depends if there are external walls and whether it's insulated or not. Most homes those walls are not insulated! Plus the garage door itself as it's a leaky mess but can mitigate with the correct sealing done and ensure gaps are kept small, plus insulate the door itself. If it's a metal door and facing south then you got to add a significant amount of btu's just for that. Also, if you just plan to blast the a/c during limited periods rather than constant cool, you'll need a heck of a lot more btu's for that... common btu calcs assume there is a constant cooling effect going on. This is why car air conditioners are massive beasts like 40k btu's for comparably small spaces simply because it has to rapid cool a 100+ degree interior fast. With that said, if you need it just for working out, then a 12k btu spot cooling might be "good enough" where you just vent the cool air directly as close to you as possible rather than expectation to cool down the entire garage.
NO modern portable A/C needs a condensation dump or hose. all goes out with discharge air.
They mention the noise, but no discussion of the inefficiency of portable A/Cs.
I live in the Northeast US and I just need a unit that is NOT hooked up or mounted to anything, BUT, will keep my greenhouse cool on sunny winter days. My GH can get up to 100F in winter IF the sun is out. I JUST need an AC unit that needs NO real "installation" and can cool my GH off to about 82F, just cool enough to stop the temps in my GH from reaching 100F and anything above 80-85F when the sun is out. I also do NOT want anything that is put into a window in my GH that will let cold air in. Now, IF the 1 hose AC units can be put in and the hose will NOT let all the cold air in in winter maybe THAT would be okay. My greenhouse is only a 12X8 and about 9 feet tall, maybe cooling that small of a space will NOT be TOO much to ask from a small AC unit. What IF I did get a small portable 1 hose AC unit and NOT hook the hose up to go outside? What kinda air is coming out of that hose anyway? I wouldn't need it to cool off the GH every day, just sunny winter days, in SUMMER, I can put most plants outside anyway. My greenhouse does have a window in it BUT it has a screen in it so I am NOT sure HOW I COULD vent it anyway.
never knew what a swamp cooler....I've heard it a million times before. but now I know
This must be intended for those southern hemisphere viewers.
Yes here in Florida we are still in the mid 90's. It is applicable for us. I might not even pull the air conditioners out of our windows during our winter. We will see.
like the south pole?
I’d like to know what choices I have in heating. I turned my garage into a workshop and I’d love to know since we’re heading into colder seasons
Expensive - look into small heat pump.
Cheaper - look for portable baseboard electric radiator
@TerraTN Sure. Absolutely but you need to run a condenser to an exterior area. A split system is a ductless system. The condenser dumps the heat outside. This only difference between a split and a heat pump is that heat pumps (typical home AC) is supply through a series of ductwork on the home. A split system would only cool one area.
Usually see them in hotel rooms, small offices, etc
Or you can look at a small wood burner to put in your garage if you have room make sure you put rockboard behind it so it doesn't heat up the wood
Depends on your budget. Mini-splits work great and are really quiet. How big is the garage? If it's 2 car, that would be a great choice. If it's 3, 4, or bigger, I'd probably recommend a split system with a few ducts. I don't know where you live. Heat pumps are good for mild winters. If you aren't going to maintain the temp, I'd go with natural gas if available.
The short answer is have a local HVAC company come out and give you options.
Thanks everyone for their input. It looks like a mini split would be the better choice. I need to add some insulation prior to install according to the articles I read. It’ll be a fun project to undertake in the coming weeks! Thanks!!
Well I love my 1980's Fedders Window Air Conditioner Unit.
Why is this posted in September? And he said the seasons are changing and it’s heating up but the season is going to be fall so it’s cooling down and you need to think about heaters.
Any unit can be turned in a wifi unit with an alexa smart plug. This way I send alexa a message when to turn on my ac unit. Works perfect
can you guys make a video about how to make a template for portable ac units for people that have swing out windows that is easy to make and understand
Use cardboard
those are called casement windows, its really hard but you gotta buy a hose set designed for those issues
you can search up sealing kits for casement windows, thatll do
Hey Richard when I'm using my portable air conditioner why doesn't the humidity drop in the room I'm in I heard that the portable air conditioner creates a vacuum when it sucks air through the fins this in turn draws outside air into the building through any cracks or holes is this true
Because it is causing a negative pressure zone, potentially moisture-laden outdoor air is drawn back into the room through cracks and gaps. This is one reason why they are less efficient than window-mounted AC units.
@@SmallWorldFilms how can I make the portable unit more efficient
@@danbo8520 You mean retrofit an existing portable? I'm afraid that is beyond me because the flaw is in the design. Two hose units are intrinsically more efficient but I don't know if you can adapt an existing one-hose unit. The best you can do is try to insulate the hose to prevent heat from re-escaping back into the room.
Create video on new series
I have 2 Wynter (single hose, 14,000 btu) portable air conditioner, they work great!
Hi, I heard that single hose are ineffective for heatwaves above 95 degrees Fahrenheit / 35 degrees Celsius, is that your experience ? Thanks
Portable ac units are terrible. They not only pull in cold air it just generated to cool the hot coils, but it also dumps that air outside, thus lowering the air pressure in the room. This causes air to come into the room through the walls and windows in order to stabilize the air pressure. In other words, not only are you pushing cold air out of the room, you are also forcing air from outside of the room into it. Window AC units are much more efficient in that they only recirculate existing air while only extracting heat. The heat is displaced through the hot side with outside air. So no air pressure loss, and no cold air loss. Avoid portable ac units whenever possible or just get a spilt system.
Great animations to explain how it works
Do portable air conditioners draw air in from inside the house/apt or from outside?
Depends. Single-hose draw (cooled) air from inside, run it through the condenser, and dump it outside. SOME double-hose draw outside air to pass through the condenser and dump outside; some ALSO draw indoor air to go to the condenser. Go figure. And ... all those hoses are thin-wall plastic (poorly insulated) dumping heat indoors. Of course, single-hose draw outside air into the house to make up for what's sent out. No free lunch.
Question for this old house - If the room has no windows, are there extension hoses so I can run the hose to a window in the next room?
You would need to fabricate your own hose extension. A trip to the plumbing section at the home center will offer plenty of options but you'll need to be creative.
If you’re interested in putting central air-conditioning which I’ve already got a new furnace and separate heat zone in the basement but I would like to have its own blower for just the air conditioning if possible and it would be central air because all the vents are and everything is done I also have the rods put in for the air-conditioning already installed into the new furnace. If you want a project and it’s a decent price give me a jingle. But only from this platform no other contractor should try to reach me.
A single hose portable AC sucks cool air from the room and dumps it out. That air has to be replaced so it seeps in from the outside all around the house.
In other words the room the portable AC is in will cool down while the rest of the house increases in temperature.
Window AC's are much more efficient than portable AC's. Just look at the amp ratings for each, window AC's will usually draw 10-20% less power. They also take up less room and are much cheaper to purchase.
If you can't use a window AC, get a dual hose portable AC. The common single hose ones suck air from inside and blow it outside, this creates negative air pressure by blowing some of the cooled air outside. If you live in the mid-west, or any place that gets significantly cold winters. Don't waste money on the AC/Heat pump combo units. Those only work well for areas with mild winters.
Sean Place pay for my unit thanks
gl finding a dual hose, remember some people cant get windows acs, either its to impractical or will never work since they likely have casement windows. either way, someone pointed out that portable acs are more for spot cooling, not for cooling the entire room much. i would use it when it gets hot where i sit
What happen if you don't remove the window AC in the winter?
Nothing at all. I leave mine in window all year the white noise from fan helps me sleep better. In winter just run the fan it will not pull cold air from outside and dump it in the room.
Oh, good. I left mine in place last winter and this Summer it works fine...so I guess I can just leave it in place all year round :).
I installed mine 9 years ago but I'm going to take it out this year to clean it. I keep filter clean but I want to clean inside
why there is not thermostat on a 5,000 btu AC ? I hate it when it runs for nothing.
Some people can't get central air conditioning because they live in old prewar buildings in NYC. People down south always make remarks about wimdow or wall units. That dont know realize some of is can't have central air because of the way the building is made
Exactly m upgrade from window to portable its better forgetting the air where you want.
Which is better Central Air or a Window Unit?
A single duct portable AC should be banned. It should have 2 ducts or dual. A single duct puts the house in a negative pressure. The negative pressure causes infiltration of untreated air to enter the house. Basically, the same amount of air that exhaust out of the single duct is pulled back into the house from the path of least resistance. Huge waste of electricity and efficiency.
Take the advice of a professional HVAC tech and do not buy a single duct portable AC.
Dual ducts are harder and harder to find at $400 or less price points.
BTW since the second duct (going out the same window mount) is pulling air in from the outdoors (and really close to the exhaust) isn't that untreated air too? Do the dual hose models have two air fans like central units. One to blow room air over the cool coils and one to blow outside air over the hot coils (the two air flows never meet) Or is to the same as this LG except the intake is now a hose instead of a grill. If the latter then why bother.
In fact I use the unit for a hot spot in a house the HVAC guys have not been able to address. I'm fine with the air vacuuming as it forces some air from the rest of the house to that room, then rechills it. It is a Victorian house. Those are murder on the AC bill and never balanced.
@@STho205 The two duct design is similar to a window unit. Note: not all 2 duct units are made like that. Larger btu may have 2 ducts, but both will be exhaust. Make sure 1 is intake and 1 is exhaust. That means it's pulling air from outside, across the condenser coil, then back outside. There won't be a negative pressure created this way. Remember the negative pressure pulls in untreated outside air that now needs to be cooled and dehumidified. A single duct unit pulls air from inside the house, across the condenser coil, and then outside. I still prefer a window unit.
@@bradclary7463 a proper removable minisplit would be best, if affordable at $400 or $500 and no installation specialist.** Nobody makes that. All these Chinese boxes today (window units or floor portables) mix the intake to room and intake to exhaust. If there is a separation it is a very minimal one like a plastic flap. Not like window units of the 60s. Completely different fans and two sealed air boxes must must add cost the Chinese can't justify.
** a microsplit window unit would have two separate boxes and the coolant lines connecting them through a window ledge yoke/channel. Noisy compressor and hot air intake/exhaust outside. Quiet air handler and air intake blower inside, just recooling the same air in a convection. Both boxes sit against the wall below the window bottom so they don't block the window.
Nobody builds this I can find, except for marine applications. I'm no HVAC guy, but if I had the licence, tools and coolant I might experiment with separating a 12,000 btu cheap window unit.
@@STho205 Window units I'm used to have a dual shaft motor and the indoor and outdoor are separated. That little cheap plastic flap is usually to bring in outside air if you choose to.
Mini-splits are great, but expensive. Very quiet. Definitely not made for the do-it-yourselfer.
@@bradclary7463 could be though. All they have to do is lock the lines inside a sturdy sleeve that fits into the window opening, instead of putting the whole damned ugly box in the window path.