@@travisferguson1721 This model says 1000sq ft but in a basement definitely more since the demand is less and if you are in hotter parts of the country you may want to go a little larger.
Hold on, any ac unit needs the lines and unit to be vacuumed sealed in order for it to work properly.. this is the part that stops almost all diyr . That’s usually the hidden cost of a diy unit like this.
@@eric4052 This kit doesn't require that, the lines are sealed, you can see the valve on each end. There is no part of the system that is exposed to air during the install., clever design that eliminates all that.
@@eric4052 You don't need to with this kit. Look closely when we remove the black/gray caps, you will see a valve on both ends end, within the lines. These valves don't open until the lines are screwed down. Both lines are already under vacuum, this clever design preserves this until everything is connected & the system remains air free,
Next time have someone outside to let you know when the pilot bit on the drill breaks thru the concrete then go outside put the pilot bit in the hole and finish drilling. Done this for years and no concrete patching will be necessary. Looks way more professional.
my Milwaukee core bits don't have a pilot bit... I start with the "centering bit" then once the carbide teeth make a circumference, I remove the centering bit and bore...
Purchased: August 2022 - still works GREAT! ruclips.net/user/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install.This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment.I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
A couple ideas: check studs before starting, you can make sure the inside unit will land on one and the hole will not. Also make your hole slope slightly towards the outside of the house in case of water.
I was thinking the same thing, only knowing it was a basement with walls skinned on concrete, I would have opened up the wall. Using the template, you know exactly where to cut, so open up the whole area behind the unit. Clear out your working space, do your foundation hole work with the downward taper hole, then block out the remaining opening with PT wood studs attached to concrete with tapcons, then plywood over that flush to sheetrock with the same holes cut out as required by the template. Gives you a far more solid mount for the inside unit, and if you missed anything you can box it with wood trim and itll look like a million bucks.
@@BazookifyThese units come with a warranty. That's kinda the point, or a big part of it anyway. I installed one of these because they provide a warranty for self installs.
@@sc5015That's how I installed mine. I cut out the drywall behind each indoor unit just under the footprint of it, then screwed a piece of plywood of the same thickness as the drywall in the hole, then mounted the unit onto that. No way in hell would I mount one of these the way they did in the video!
If you can afford another $250 or so I would recommend getting a set of referigeration gauges and a vacuum pump (Harbor Freight). The referigerant line connections are the most common point of failure in DIY installs. Someone who does this all the time will be able to tell when the fittings are tight enough to seal just by feel. But for non-professionals, after everything is hooked up you can connect a set of guages and the vacuum pump, then draw the system down into a total vacuum. Close the valve to the vacuum pump and let the system set idle for 24 hours. If it's still in a complete vacuum you're good to open those valves and let the referigerant charge into your tubing. If not, you saved yourself a very expensive service call because you would have vented your referigerant charge into the atmosphere and needed to call someone to locate the leak and recharge the system.
Yes, counterboring from the outside should prevent the breakout problem. Another tip for various situations is that a holesaw ran in reverse doesn't grab. Its a good way to start holes or when dealing with materials that tend to grab. A shop vac or the suction end of a leaf blower is good for dust control.
I would say instead of leveling the outside unit on the dirt you should have laid a layer of gravel, compact it, then lay loose gravel to level the platform on. That way it will remain level for years and will have good drainage around the unit
Exactly..... these guys in the video have no clue what the hell they are doing. Over time with snow and rain , that unit will start to sink. specially when they are using plastic as a foundation 😂😂
@Nick Moore They also screwed up on the hole itself. When they drilled the hole, they did it straight instead of implementing a 8-degree radius tllt, To prevent water from seeping into the house through the whole when it rains and snows over time. They also didn't weather treat the inside of the hole which is open spored concrete that over time accumulates condensations from the weather and seeps into the concrete wall creating what we know as "Black-Mold" THIS is why people should let "Professionals" do certain jobs, such as this.... I understand people want to save money and all, in this bad times its understandable. But MOST home owners trying to do it themselves don't know what they are doing or don't know building codes and strict guidelines when it comes to home remodeling or equipment installations such as these. One guy I know electrocuted himself so bad, that he lost his entire arm, because he thought he know how to install a breaker box 240-volt rail. upgrading from 120-volt. He watched a youtube video & thought he knew what he was doing, Well he did it wrong and created an electrical ARC that almost killed him and lost his entire arm in the process. 🤷♂️🤦♂️ People need to stop trying to be professional installers without experience or training. many times it can get you killed. Or like this video, you do more damage than good because they have no experience & years of training to know what not to do and what to do.... 🤷♂️🤦♂️
Did one of these a couple of years ago. Easy to install and still working great. We bought a wall mount so it didn't sit on the ground. Ours also has a wifi connection so we can control it from anywhere via a phone app.
It is very large but keep in mind his upstairs is only one level, so he is doubling his living space by doing this. It's a great way to get space down the road when you have more money to do it, which is exactly what he did.
If you do one again, you can get rid of most of the external concrete damage by noting the pilot drill penetration and moving the drill outside to finish. These mini-splits are great, and even with inflation making them more expensive, still a better solution for many areas. I'm always a little worried about bending pipes, and would suggest a small pipe bending tool. Good job!
Had our HVAC provider install a Mitsubishi mini-split in our master bedroom last year...probably the single best home owner decision we've made. I considered the DIY MrCool system but went with the pros since it was a second story install.
@Birthing Girdle It was literally a year ago, so prices likely have changed. We live in the Mid Atlantic region (Hint: Joe Biden's home state), the price was $5,450 for a 24 SEER 9K BTU Mitsubishi unit (Outdoor unit model: MUZ-GL09NA Indoor unit model: MSZ-GL09NA Warranty: 1 year labor and 12 year parts. Our master bedroom has always been too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter (due to a first floor redesign by the previous owner). After years of using window AC and space heaters we pulled the trigger on the mini-split. We leave the bedroom door open and the unit will help cool the entire 2nd floor of our 4 bedroom colonial. We wish we had done this years ago.
Mitsubishis are very nice units, used to be called Mr Slim. I agree with you, The Mr Cool is as good as you can get without going that route, especially for DIY
Honestly, this is more of a look what I did video vs being informative. You left out A LOT and always leave these projects to a professional, professionally speaking.
Once the center bit made that little hole on the outside, you should have taken your cement bit to the outside and finished the cut making it look nice.
Installed the 36k btu model last year. It's really as easy as it looks. Including all the wiring and accessories I needed, came out to about $2,400. I got quoted 6-7 grand to have one installed by an hvac company.
I really appreciate you sharing this. I know many watch the video and think it's too good to be true, but this one is real. Glad you had a good experience too my friend absolutely loves it.
@@2004elcamino Mr Cool gives you a warranty and they already have dealers in most states. But keep in mind they will usually just ship what you need if anything just like when you got the original unit.
I worked as technician for installing these ac i really recommend to put your tube under pressure with vacuum pump and check for leaks then vacuum the tubes and turn the gas on that way you can be sure to not lose any gas it's good for environment and your pocket 😉
You can also get a bracket to mount the outside unit up on the wall of your house. I did this because where mine had to go was right near a driveway. But putting it up on a wall (above head height) means it won't get hit by lawnmowers, or covered with snow, and makes it harder to steal.
Living in China for ten years, this kind of system was quite the norm. I've seen them install this in apartments 30 flights up on the outside of the apartment. I've seen them also do similar in large houses outside major cities. These fan units on the wall high up are so quiet, AND the unit outside is also unusually quiet. This how they zone their rooms. We should have this kind of system a long time ago. Thanks for bringing back memories.
Me doing this install (figuratively speaking)- Day 1 - Unit shows up w/ mounting plate bent, and a dent in the main unit. Call manufacturer, they tell me to contact the shipping company. Contact the shipping company, they tell me to contact the Manufacture. Back to the shipping company to file a claim - 2 weeks later new unit shows up. Day 15 - Rain Day 16 - Slip and slide through mud digging out roots to level out base pad, takes ALL day - trek mud through the house when heading inside. Day 17 - Rent carpet cleaner Day 18 - Units leveled outside, head inside to find my spot - the ONLY spot is 21 feet away from the unit outside, a foot too far. Back outside to move unit/dig roots. Day 19 - Time to mount that plate inside - Forgot my neighbor borrowed drill, he's not home. Day 20 - Wife asks me what's taking so long, I never do anything! Day 21 - All set, time to drill - need an extension cord. Head to shed and naturally it's on the back wall so pull out the Mower, 3 kiddie pools, 75 shovels/rakes, 45 lawn chairs, get attacked by a raccoon - start drooling - head to the Hospital. Day 21 Continued - that night - Wife says "you going to leave all that stuff outside of the shed?". Day 22 - Go to the basement to stare at the wall. Day 53 - I Finish staring at the wall and decide to hire a contractor who specializes in ductless A/C units.
forgot back goes out on first day and cant hardly get out of bed to use bathroom for at least 2 weeks... leave stuff outside... its stolen as they do in many places where THEY SEE IT... THEY STEAL IT.... if dont set it in REINFORCED CONCRETE WITH BIG LEGS INTO THE GROUND and expanded metal cage around it so it cant be stolen ... easily... and surrounded by bushes so they cant see it... but the unit can still breathe and can be worked on if necessary... a nice shed over it to keep blazing sun off it and the leaves/snow/rain etc.
A lot of people are confused about the line set and vacuum requirement. There are at least two options for this brand of A/C. One option comes with open line that must be cut to length, and nitrogen purged, pressure tested, and vacuumed. The other option ( The one shown here) has a line set that is sealed and pressurized with refrigerant and has special fittings that allow connection to both inside and outside units and does not require vacuum. Also, in both cases the condensing unit contains refrigerant that is released into the system when everything is connected.
A vacuum is always required. There is moisture present in the air, and without first pulling a vacuum, you are introducing moisture to your system that the condenser unit will never be able to condense.
@@andrewsmith9678 - The line-set is pre-sealed/charged to match the heat pump . . . . the connectors pierce each other when connected allowing no external air to enter. As long as your connecting procedure follows the instructions without backing off for any reason the installation will be air/contaminant/moisture free with the 'perfect' factory charge. Kind of like buying a refrigerator ! IF you allow the initial connection procedure to fail ( open to atmosphere ) . . . DUH !
@@andrewmckinlay2964 - The line-set is pre-sealed/charged to match the heat pump . . . . the connectors pierce each other when connected allowing no external air to enter. As long as your connecting procedure follows the instructions without backing off for any reason the installation will be air/contaminant/moisture free with the 'perfect' factory charge. Kind of like buying a refrigerator ! IF you allow the initial connection procedure to fail ( open to atmosphere ) . . . DUH !
I have the Media window Mini split you reviewed last year. That thing is amazing. 92 and humid in Florida outside. 74 and comfortable inside. Plus my AC bill is 35% less.
These Midea splits are beautiful and work great. I have a 18000 Btu system for my 130 square feet bedroom, which I bought for $350 here in Bangladesh and got it installed for $36. Sometimes I feel like I'm in the north pole and specially for so cheap!
I purchased a MrCool 24K 3rd Gen for a 1,000 sq foot 2nd floor in my Condo. I installed it in March 2021 because I was preparing for the dreaded 120 degree weather in Los Angeles. I paid $1,800. Normally it gets 95 degrees because the Sun faces my floor for 5 hours. MrCool keeps me freezing COLD (kicks out 55 degrees cold at lowest temp) even when it is over 100 plus outside. However my LADWP bill went from $800 per MONTH to $150 per month because MrCool is more energy efficient than my central air conditioning. I did 4 months of testing and compared bills from the last 5 years. MrCool not only you keeping me freezing cold (temp gun) but your saving me $$$ per month during the summer.
Back in the late 90's I was installing " Sanyo splits" It's good to see a unit available for the homeowner to install and save huge. These are much more efficient and quiet.
Love it I remember when this units were $5, 000 in Puerto Rico,plus install. And look now is so cheap and easy to install. Thats unbelievable!!! I can do this my self !!!
5:25 (tip) make sure the platform is level first and to make higher put more dirt or w/e the platform is going on. To lower you just take some material out and put the level on the platform first. It will make it much easier than doing it with the unit on the platform.
Yup and compact that base down first before installing the pad. Dirt settles, so just because it is level now doesn't mean it's going to stay that way in a month/year. The guy making this DIY video clearly didn't watch any DIY videos himself first and it shows.
In February we stayed at an air-bnb in Georgia in what the listing said was a Cabin. It was more like a large SHED converted into livable space - that's another topic for another day. But it did have one of these Mr Cool units. Unfortunately the heat didn't seem to stay on for more than a couple of hours before it would start blowing cool air. It seemed like if you turned the unit off and on it would work again but that was unreliable. Regardless we were glad to only stay in that "cabin" for only one night. It was a unique and unforgettable experience that's for sure!
From a retired HVAC tech ... Good Job Very informative Should have mentioned the efficiency of your unit and whether or not it was a combo heat pump/ac unit Great video
@@dillard715 We installed one (different brand) in our shop last winter up here in Canada where it goes well below freezing for much of the winter and it did a very nice job of keeping it warm. We've had one in our (mostly) uninsulated lunchroom for a few years now and does just as well.
Important to mention that you can skip the line set vacuuming / evacuation step ONLY with the MRCOOL DIY style units because their line sets are actually charged with the refrigerant. If you do this with other units you’ll have problems.
The second you hook them up you contaminated the refrigerant and the vacuum also proves you don’t have a leak. R410a refrigerant is bad for the ozone layer and is not supposed to be leaked out. This was a poor showing on the product and cooling and efficiency of the unit is hurt in the process.
If you pause at 6:06 you can see that the lines have fittings like a hydraulic line quick connect. I can only guess MrCool evacuates the line of air and adds some refrigerant so no vacuuming needed.
I installed a 36kBTU version of this. It cost 2 1/2 times as much, but it's much bigger, has three indoor units, and wow are the additional line sets expensive! But I wanted a warranty, and these are the only option for that for self-installs. Mine took much longer, but I also did, well, a better installation, with a concrete pad I poured, extra line set length in the attic instead of outside, and I replaced the drywall underneath the indoor units with plywood (I'd never use toggle bolts for something like this). I rigged up a method of temporarily hanging the indoor units so I could test their connections for leaks before permanently mounting them. I ran the condensate lines into wall-mounted PVC pipes (this is in my shop, so appearance is less important), as the flimsy tubing they provide didn't inspire confidence. The system has worked great for almost a year! No complaints, other than that the louver position setting is a joke, and the app doesn't always correctly display what the units are doing (restarting it fixes that). Long term reliability is a concern, as these are just rebranded Midea systems, but so far so good, and the 7 year warranty is very nice.
That's why hiring a pro may cost you less than DIY. You may f*ck up a lot of things that will cost more than the actual installation. Why is so many people cheap anyway? You got a job, it's obvious you think you deserve to get paid, but you think that other professionals should be working for min wage or less... That's many people's thinking.
@@MrDomestosWC The problem is, the pros charge too much for this type of work. Typical install costs for a 1 ton minisplit, where the unit itself is about $1500, are typically $4000+. Even if it took the pros 8 hours (it doesn't), that would be over $350/hr. Pretty far from minimum wage. I think $100-$150/hr, with a total cost of around $2500-$3000 would be much more compelling vs. DIY. HVAC guys are scared of these things, and with good reason. It makes DIY possible, without expensive tools, and most of the work is easily done by reasonably competent DIYers. They're starting to offer traditional split systems as DIY - that will be interesting.
@@bnasty267 I agree with you. HVAC guys hate splits for a reason though, the installation on some units can be a nightmare. Also, I don't know how it looks like in your town, but my local jurisdiction (Calgary) requires electrical permit to be pulled with the final inspection for the AC. DYI is not an option in that case. I had two guys installing the central unit in my place (VERY weird townhome). It took them a full day (approx. 12hrs shift for both). They brought everything, the unit, the coil, lines, connected the electrical, pulled the permit, run testing, built a cover pergola to masque the AC unit etc. They had to run it thru common area concrete. It costed me nearly 5k. I know the cost of the supplies and permit was approx. $2k. So $3k/24hrs is approx. $125 per hour for each. $5k seemed like a lot at first but then I didn't realize they would spend so much time on it. They even had to remove the pooper in the bathroom for the rough-ins and rearrange some lines. I'm happy as they did a fantastic job and I do realize I wouldn't be able to DIY, even though I fully understood the sequence and logic (I'm an engineer). I had no tools and no hands-on experience. I see that most HVAC guys are scared of splits, they have no experience with it, while in Europe (where I'm originally from) it's the most common thing. Central AC in EU is exotic. That's probably the reason why.
They are not without their flaws!!! Every 5 years or so (depending on usage and indoor air quality)they need a full cleaning They build up black mold inside because of the cool damp environment I charge CAN$500 for the full cleaning... if you balance that out it's about $100/yr maintenance Just be aware of this
If he didn't already, make sure that drain line is below the refrigerant lines and slopes slightly downwards through that hole in the wall, otherwise you'll have condensate running around inside the interior wall!
@@rortify let's try and at least keep the comment section civil here. The air handlers create condensate and the manual clearly states a downward angle. Try sloping it up and see what happens.
@@bentonrp I am not talking about mounting the unit. I am talking about cutting a stud, even if it is not structural, moving over an inch and a half and no worries about having to cut through a stud for zero reason.
Based on the finished project's appearance, I would have saved myself a ton of money and time and just installed a slick looking window unit. Unless there isn't sufficient clearance for said window unit I can't imagine going through all this for something that looks just as bad as a window unit. Perhaps this was meant more as an advertisement and in that case you failed miserably to gain my endorsement based on all of the previously mentioned points. But it was a pleasant enough video and did not seem too terribly difficult to install. Kudos for a well shot and written production that does everything right except foster the enthusiasm required for such an undertaking. Thanks again for the video.🙃
When the drill bit come through the wall you should have come around & finish drilling from the outside. That way the hole would of been clean instead of busting out
@@Skeetah3113 there is a blower wheel inside the wall units which will grow mold and its pretty common after 5 years for the fan to lose airflow because of it and you have to cover the surrounding area with plastic and literally hose them out. you still have filters like a regular ac, still have coils that need to be regularly washed. everything inside these things are plastic so it very common after 5ish years to break pieces when servicing. the whole system is controlled by a board with multiple temps/ pressure sensors which are prone to fail at some point. If the board fails don't be suprised to fork out 1k to fix it. refrigerant leaks are also very common on the flare fittings that connect the copper lines to the units and let tell you it is a nightmare trying to fix one on a unit hanging 6ft in the air.
I would set up each outside wire/tubing connector in a “drip loop” configuration to prevent rainwater from getting into the interior of the condenser mechanicals. Beautiful setup. You’ family will be enjoying the fruits of your labor a long time.
We instal one last summer, it works well until this year. No more freon in the unit. A professionnal come to check it, the installation is great and did'nt know why it's empty. He refill it and it cool again. Really disapointed, we change it soon. If you want an a/c unit it's better to use professionnal service to have guaranty and pieces.
@claudine laflame, Mr. Cool and similar cheap products are only worth it if you install them. If you pay a professional to do the install, then you might as well spend a little more and get a quality product like Mitsubishi.
I think you should put the 220vac supply power and communication wires into a seal tight for extra protection also prolongs it life. It looks like all day job to me! In addition if you live in Massachusetts then your condenser should be mounted on a stand or a wall bracket that’s at least 12in above the ground to avoid snow filling up during winter time !
Very cool. I’ve installed 2 ymgi units in my home several years ago. They are very similar to these but require a hvac tech to properly charge the system. I have been very pleased with them. However these units you showed are great. I really like that I could install myself. I will definitely be keeping these in mind the next time I need one. Great video
when we install AIR CONDITIONING like this one before we let the gas loose we use a vacuum tool to be on the safe side + no air in the lines where the gas is the name of AIR CONDITIONING we use is qulima and costs around 1433 usd takes around 2- 3 hours to install there are 2 types of connectors 1 fast where the gas runs free as soon as the connector is locked the other type is like this video where we a vacuum too before letting the gas trough the pipes about the video that was a nice clean set up and the way you placed tho out door part i think was nice
@@phillipmontoya5326 it depends on the size you buy. They have one small enough to plug into an electrical 110 outlet and they have one large enough to cool your home.
Loving the DIY spirit. I think you guys did an excellent job. Top shelf system installed for a fraction of the price a contractor would have charged....home run in my book.
Except it's not installed right. They never vacuumed down the system before releasing refrigerant. If they run it like that the system wont last long at all. Head pressures arent checked with HVAC gauges. And temp drop wasnt measured. You need about 2k worth of equipment to do it right that they didnt show in this video
@@MassiveGarbage it's definitely not an extra 5k. I guess it depends on the contractor, but my company offers name brand for around the same price and you're paying labor. Maybe 2k depending on how many heads and how extensive everything else is. Power needs to be run. If the panel is right there then that's cheaper already. So for an extra 2k, you get one of the best brands and professionally installed. It will last you 10 years longer than this one will. Easy. Maybe even longer.
@silence19999 wow that is astronomically high in price! Now I understand why home owners want to do this themselves! Is that in a bigger city? Where I'm at I could do that job for around 14k give or take. I can install a mini split for around 7-8k all day here. I know labor rates fluctuate big time depending on location. But that massive difference in cost isn't all labor lol. Wow thanks for enlightening me on what others are charging. That's insane!
@silence19999 ahhh. Yeah I guess that makes more sense actually. You probably don't have very many choices between heating companies so there isn't much of a competition to keep prices low.
@6:50 - Insert step: Connect vacuum pump to gauges and service port. Draw a vacuum and hold for 15 min; If no change in negative pressure, continue to vac for 30 min to dry out the lines, close up, then proceed to let the gas out... If you had a leak and did it without a test, then you'd lose your charge to the leak... Plus it's best to remove the atmospheric air from the lines...
I work in that field and i highly encourage to vacuum out the copper lines before you let the refrigerant gas in the lines !! The fact that this step was skipped may leave contamination and moisture inside the lines and with time the condenser will get damaged and the performance of the machine will be greatly reduced, you absolutely need to hook a vacuum pump on there and vaccum out any contamination down to AT LEAST 500 MICRONS (there is a special gauge made by yellowjacket for this) and also if the tines are directly going to the wall and into the condenser the unit might freeze when cooling because the refrigerant do not have enoug room fully diffuse its temperature after hitting the coil inside the machine ! (Excuse my bad english) my first language is french) but really guys be cautious with this machinery it is really sensible to moisture and contamination any line that is smaller in lenght than 10 feet in a back to back installation has a higher risk of freezing simply because the lines are too short to diffuse the temperature in between the gaz cycles
Pro Tip-- When the drill bit sticks out but the hole saw's "cup" has not broken through, take the drill outside and go from the other side to avoid blow-out of the concrete. Also, make sure it is sealed from water/frost/ice/air/rodents/etc. Some zoning codes may require a higher or lower hole in the wall because various factors like snow or structural concerns. If in doubt, ask first instead of cry later.
Addition to your protip, keep the bit wet to avoid a blow out. It will cool the bit and cool the material brick / concrete from exploding, hence friction and heat build up.
There are a lot of comments about the lines need to be vacuum down. What many don't seem to get is these lines are pre charged with refrigerant MrCool has made it easier for DIY. Read the site if you don't believe the comment. Specifically the DIY models.
They still won't believe it, because most are techs that don't return calls, or want to install these but they also don't want homeowners to do it themselves.
No, most are techs that have to go back and fix these when an incompetent home owner (and I am not saying you or all home owners are, but there definitely are a lot) mess them up and it takes their time away from their actual customer base. Most people don't realize this, but the "extra" you pay for a professional to install a system is for the service they will provide you years down the road, not some huge profit margin, cause that's just not there.
Maybe I am missing something here. But even if a tech is coming out because the home owner installed it incorrectly aren't you still be paid for that service. Even if it's taking away from your customer base you still have a chance to earn new customers. Maybe not for that job but for most of these install it's addition to their regular heating and cooling system. I know there are some that do their whole house with these split system but most of those are install by a tech.
@@xalint1 You are 100% correct. This is what plumbers said when sharkbites came out, then the stories of sharkbites failing everywhere and plumbers having pick up the pieces. All fake stories of course. The people buying these DIY units were likely never hiring anyone in the first place so nothing is lost and as you said service calls, etc all are new revenue.
Just so you know, the lines aren’t whats charged. The condenser is. Not pulling a vacuum = moisture in the lines = acid in your compressor which will lead to failure but hey, I’m only a professional.
Was unfamiliar with these systems. Thanks for the info. Straight to the point and simply explained. Question though, Why did you not center unit inside between the 2 windows. Sorry bud, that would bother me every time I see it .
Really nice to see North America using these A/C units. I can get the same unit for 1/4 of the price. So hopefully you all will start seeing cheaper options on the market soon.
*_This looks so awesome!_* 🤗 *_I can already imagine the nightmare I'd have to deal with, though. For these guys - Less than 4 hours. For ME - Around 3 weeks, 2 trips to the ER 🏥 and a few visits with my shrink._* 🤨🧐
These units look cool. I would of course pay a professional to install it and be done with it. If they screw it up, the responsibility is on them and NOT ME! Nothing in my house is NORMAL so I would never take this on myself.
Hope it doesn't snow where that is because if u use it for heat an snow is around condenser fan it won't last long. Should be 2' off the ground. Minimum 18". BTW I'm a professional HVAC technician
HVAC tech here aswell...yeah when I saw that they didn't pull a vacuum on those lines going to the evaporator I wanted to cry a bit.Now your system has air in it, the moisture in the air will turn the compressor oil acidic over time and the compressor wil kill itself from the inside in the long run.
If you noticed the connections are not flared. The linset and indoor coil are preevacuated. I agree this should still not be diy. I'll have to watch again now to see about the disconnect NEC violation
I agree with the height, makes good sense to do that. the rest of the replies, anyone that is an HVAC tech knows they don't know the new systems coming out. read the manufacture's info first. for example, are you all aware you can now buy your own R134 in a can and recharge your own system? sure maybe it has leaks, maybe you overcharge because you can't read the gauge on the can, maybe the inline filter needs replaced, maybe its too cold now but your better half is still sweating in the 110 degree heat. But not talking about all the what ifs, in this case, this unit, is sealed until you connect the fitting. They already have it vacuumed and the fitting is designed to stay sealed until the seal is broke on fastening. Maybe it still lets in air, moisture or a cricket or two, well its not supposed to and if that happens then it isn't because you didn't follow the directions. Now there are split units that still require it to be pumped down. but if you read about this unit he wrote that he used in this case, you don't. Can you? sure, I can also take my tire back off the car rim after the guy installs it, to be sure the rim bead is in good shape... but probably won't undo what someone that makes or manufactures just to see if they did the job they say they did. I have a friend with a small shop and he has had one of these running now for at least 2 years if not 3. No complaints there but he also has all the HVAC gear to fix it if it did. Anyway, wish people would quit posting about pumping it down, we have moved into a new era of HVAC and for simple things, they are trying to catch the niche market of people wanting to do it themselves, without needing a specialist. Will it last or fail in a few years like the old plastic water lines and such, I don't know. but I have one ordered and while we do have vacuum pumps I do not plan on using it since they do not say to do it in the instructions. That is my rant, good video. Now about the code issue, well, if there is code enforcement where he lives then they should take advantage of that assurance, but I would not shirk on safety for disconnects. But then again, if you only put a wire staple every 14 inches instead of 12 inches, is your home going to definitely or even more likely burn down....
Anyone who has an extra $3 Grand to spend! Did this myself about 6 years ago, piece of cake. I plan to do another for the main part of the house later this year. Full disclosure, I do work with tools of all kinds on a regular basis. I would not recommend trying this to someone who has no experience working with copper tubing or hand tools. But the average "DIY home engineer" should have no problem.
America is really a decade or two behind modern Era. All of major cities in Asia and Europe has been using mini split ACs 2 or 3 decades ago and we are here thinking "oh this is nice"
That's because in the USA most if not all homes are built with AC and in Europe & Asia the homes were probably built before central air/heat ever existed. btw these types of units been here for years but have become more popular than window shakers.
That's cause most homes built since the 1980's come with central air and heating. Only houses here with central air are usually older homes and depending where you live you only use a/c 5 months out of the year
In the Philippines , they have only the option of the split-air conditioning unit , no central air conditioning . As this is used in the area of the home where you would be conversing , as it is " quiet " . For the window air conditioning , they have to modify usually a window for the unit . The best I've heard is putting a hole in a wall as high as possible . I suppose in the middle is best ? As heat rises and cold air falls , placing as high as possible to be the most efficient . The specifics and rationale you could easily find . Then they would put a heavy duty metal cage around it . To prevent burglars from removing it and getting inside , as they sadly use children to get inside because of their size . As well , it creates noise to block out the typical roosters and dogs barking .
"Will never find a stud" right after cutting one out? Was the location inside and the hole thru the wall so critical it couldn't move a couple of inches? Maybe the steel studs aren't useful but I still prefer to get at least a couple of the support screws into studs, and it seems with 14in to 22in between studs the line set could have found a gap without cutting out a stud.
Yes but like he said, they're rated for 120lbs and if you were to only screw into studs, you would have to drill new holes into the bracket which is just a pain in the ass and not needed.
@@JoshuaBeel This house was an exception, with a concrete foundation wall extending up to the first floor. My wood frame home which is typical of older ones has western framing. The exterior studs are ALL load bearing, go sill to roof rafters. Newer ones may have collar joists at each floor or not. Regardless, there's no excuse ever for not knowing where wall studs and utility lines are located before cutting into a wall, especially if you are going to going a load from one. An anchor's rating is not the wall rating.
@LeuCustomKnives That’s true they are bigger and heavier for sure. Most I felt with were thru the wall installation. Some apartment complexes some offices. There not bad if closer to ground easy to slide out of the case had quite a few installed up higher I had a portable high Jack to use for that. Another thing about window units is parts can be quite exclusive and after about 3-5 years they discontinue them for older units. Controls fan motor and fan blowers and blades can be hard to replace because they are specific to the unit. Us the bigger units 18,000 to 36,000 take 230 volts 20-30 amp circuits.
The lines are pre-charged and do not need to be vacuumed down, they are factory filled with the exact amount of freon and ready for use. They are sealed and only open after being tightened down. Its a clever design that eliminates the vacuum and filling step completely.
@@p-mac5969 I don’t believe you can do it with these precharged line sets, they come with 410-a in them and have special fittings that when they are tightened they release the gas so you do not have to pull a vacuum on them for home owners wanting to do a DIY install
I live in Korea and they use these mini splits EVERYWHERE. We have 3 of them in our apartment and they hardly use any electricity. At night we turn off everything but the room we are sleeping in. Makes sense right? In the US we were running 2 big central air units trying to keep the entire house cool. It's about time the United States caught up with Asia and Europe!
I have noticed that for years in videos and I think you are right that the popularity here is soaring for all those reasons. I also like not having ductwork collect dirt, mold, etc. seems cleaner.
@@SilverCymbal Thanks. Yes it's crazy how slow people are in the US to change. Our ductwork in our house in the states is all in the attic and it gets 140 up there in summertime. (60 for celsius) So our big central A/C units are trying to cool that hot air 24 hours a day. The first thing I am doing when we get back is installing mini splits like in this video! It will save me a ton of money on electric.
@Biggus Dickus Bro don't try to twist my words out of context. Yes. When it comes to certain construction techniques the USA is behind Asia and Europe. Why would you run a big central A/C unit 24 hours a day when you don't need to. Also home construction in general. In Asia and Europe they build houses out of concrete and rebar. No hurricane or tornado can knock that down. In the US they are still building houses like cardboard boxes along the coastlines no less. Literally nothing but 2x4's spaced 16" and then OSB and insulation and plastic vinyl siding. Even a small hurricane can destroy that kind of construction. I love the USA and I am coming back to retire there but yes we are behind the rest of the world in construction technology.
@@hyper2.034 I agree. They do look kind of cheap and cheesy hanging there on the wall but they are very quiet and efficient and they cool a room great. Or heat a room in winter if you get the heat pump. The ones I have had will heat way down below freezing too. Eventually they will quit heating tho if it gets too cold. Then you have a problem. LOL.
I mean don’t forgot that Milwaukee hammer drill he used is like a 500$ dollar tool. If you don’t have one I guess you can rent it. But if you don’t thats 1/4 cost of the job right there.
This seams like it would be a big market for businesses to pursue for the DIYers in my opinion. The only thing that would concern me with this is the products quality and length of usage compared to say like units from Mitsubishi or other top AC/Heat manufacturers
Nice work! But I honestly have to say after having the split types put on our new house, the old style are much much cooler. They disappoint me in cooling so much, I'm contemplating pulling them out. Efficiency and quiet is their strong suit but the old window shakers win the battle. They also make inverter type box units now.
Did you install it yourself? One big problem I saw in this video is that I didn't see them remove air from the lineset, or indoor unit before letting refrigerant out of the system. Air is much harder to compress so basically they're diluting the refrigerant with air making it less effective. Never installed one of these, but if this is how they intend for it be installed its likely not going to cool as well as a window unit, or central AC.
Great video, I’ve been thinking about getting one of those for the basement in our new house. Looks fairly simple as long as you’ve got the correct tools 👍👍
@@_abbilina_ evacuating the line set and evaporator; I don't care how tight those connections are, each of those brass connectors are going to be allowing air and moisture into the system when connected. Also, it is illegal to use refrigerant as the primary leak detection method. A properly installed system is pressure tested with nitrogen (not refrigerant), leak searched if it does not hold pressure, put under vacuum, and then, only if the vacuum holds, release refrigerant and adjust charge as necessary.
I've been thinking about going this for years but didn't want to have to bring a guy out to fill the refrigerant. That's great to know some come pre filled these days.
No matter what connections you have be it the one's in this clip or flared connections you have to pressure test for leaks usually 1.3 times the max discharge pressure 38.5 bar 4 at least 4 hrs depending on the size of the system then evacuate the system to reach lower then 500 microns which could take 3 to 4 hrs this is the right way to commission a split or vrf system purging refrigeration gas to find leaks is not good and wrong practice says a install engineer with 15 yrs experience
I own an HVAC company and in my experience, more often than not the factory made flare fittings on the premade line sets almost always leak. I often have to cut them off flare them myself. I gauruntee that if you don't have the right tool and don't know what you are doing you will have major problems and may even ruin the system.
@@xxavi213 Yes, that is correct. Refrigerant lines should always be thoroughly pressure tested with nitrogen. A vaccum pump should then be used to drawn down the system to 500 microns for any system utilizing R-410A refrigerant. This is necessary to ensire any moisture or non condensing gases are purged from the system. Skipping these steps can lead to costly issues down the line.
@@roux5044 This particular unit - the Mr. Cool DIY series - uses sealed and precharged linesets. No purging or vacuuming needed. What you said is correct for other brands of units, but not for the Mr. Cool DIY.
Thanks for watching please LIKE & SUBSCRIBE - Mr Cool: amzn.to/3vczVAx Toggle Anchors: amzn.to/35bjtps
Can you please tell me how much space it covers?
@@travisferguson1721 This model says 1000sq ft but in a basement definitely more since the demand is less and if you are in hotter parts of the country you may want to go a little larger.
Hold on, any ac unit needs the lines and unit to be vacuumed sealed in order for it to work properly.. this is the part that stops almost all diyr . That’s usually the hidden cost of a diy unit like this.
@@eric4052 This kit doesn't require that, the lines are sealed, you can see the valve on each end. There is no part of the system that is exposed to air during the install., clever design that eliminates all that.
@@eric4052 You don't need to with this kit. Look closely when we remove the black/gray caps, you will see a valve on both ends end, within the lines. These valves don't open until the lines are screwed down. Both lines are already under vacuum, this clever design preserves this until everything is connected & the system remains air free,
Next time have someone outside to let you know when the pilot bit on the drill breaks thru the concrete then go outside put the pilot bit in the hole and finish drilling. Done this for years and no concrete patching will be necessary. Looks way more professional.
Came to say this. Great tip. 👍
I totally agree, we couldn't do that here there was too little clearance from the wall to the existing compressor outside
my Milwaukee core bits don't have a pilot bit... I start with the "centering bit" then once the carbide teeth make a circumference, I remove the centering bit and bore...
Im cutting holes in wood and just learned that.
@@SilverCymbal you can also put piece of plywood against wall, someone has to hold it, but that will push the concrete and hold it together
Purchased: August 2022 - still works GREAT! ruclips.net/user/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install.This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment.I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
A couple ideas: check studs before starting, you can make sure the inside unit will land on one and the hole will not. Also make your hole slope slightly towards the outside of the house in case of water.
I was thinking the same thing, only knowing it was a basement with walls skinned on concrete, I would have opened up the wall. Using the template, you know exactly where to cut, so open up the whole area behind the unit. Clear out your working space, do your foundation hole work with the downward taper hole, then block out the remaining opening with PT wood studs attached to concrete with tapcons, then plywood over that flush to sheetrock with the same holes cut out as required by the template. Gives you a far more solid mount for the inside unit, and if you missed anything you can box it with wood trim and itll look like a million bucks.
or idk have a professional install it or something similar so it comes with more of a warranty.
And.. I have 14 inches of concrete.
@@BazookifyThese units come with a warranty. That's kinda the point, or a big part of it anyway. I installed one of these because they provide a warranty for self installs.
@@sc5015That's how I installed mine. I cut out the drywall behind each indoor unit just under the footprint of it, then screwed a piece of plywood of the same thickness as the drywall in the hole, then mounted the unit onto that. No way in hell would I mount one of these the way they did in the video!
If you can afford another $250 or so I would recommend getting a set of referigeration gauges and a vacuum pump (Harbor Freight). The referigerant line connections are the most common point of failure in DIY installs. Someone who does this all the time will be able to tell when the fittings are tight enough to seal just by feel. But for non-professionals, after everything is hooked up you can connect a set of guages and the vacuum pump, then draw the system down into a total vacuum. Close the valve to the vacuum pump and let the system set idle for 24 hours. If it's still in a complete vacuum you're good to open those valves and let the referigerant charge into your tubing. If not, you saved yourself a very expensive service call because you would have vented your referigerant charge into the atmosphere and needed to call someone to locate the leak and recharge the system.
Wrong. These tubes are filled sucker
Yes, counterboring from the outside should prevent the breakout problem. Another tip for various situations is that a holesaw ran in reverse doesn't grab. Its a good way to start holes or when dealing with materials that tend to grab. A shop vac or the suction end of a leaf blower is good for dust control.
I would say instead of leveling the outside unit on the dirt you should have laid a layer of gravel, compact it, then lay loose gravel to level the platform on. That way it will remain level for years and will have good drainage around the unit
Absolutely
Stop giving real advice. They only pay him if he made it look as easy as possible.
Exactly..... these guys in the video have no clue what the hell they are doing. Over time with snow and rain , that unit will start to sink.
specially when they are using plastic as a foundation 😂😂
@Nick Moore
They also screwed up on the hole itself. When they drilled the hole, they did it straight instead of implementing a 8-degree radius tllt,
To prevent water from seeping into the house through the whole when it rains and snows over time. They also didn't weather treat the inside of the hole
which is open spored concrete that over time accumulates condensations from the weather and seeps into the concrete wall creating what we know as "Black-Mold"
THIS is why people should let "Professionals" do certain jobs, such as this....
I understand people want to save money and all, in this bad times its understandable. But MOST home owners trying to do it themselves don't know what they are doing
or don't know building codes and strict guidelines when it comes to home remodeling or equipment installations such as these.
One guy I know electrocuted himself so bad, that he lost his entire arm, because he thought he know how to install a breaker box 240-volt rail. upgrading from 120-volt.
He watched a youtube video & thought he knew what he was doing, Well he did it wrong and created an electrical ARC that almost killed him and lost his entire arm in the process. 🤷♂️🤦♂️
People need to stop trying to be professional installers without experience or training. many times it can get you killed.
Or like this video, you do more damage than good because they have no experience & years of training to know what not to do and what to do.... 🤷♂️🤦♂️
@Nick Moore 😂😂😂
Did one of these a couple of years ago. Easy to install and still working great. We bought a wall mount so it didn't sit on the ground. Ours also has a wifi connection so we can control it from anywhere via a phone app.
?... Being that it's on a wall mount, do you hear any vibration or noise on the wall from the inside?
@@anndrambo never noticed any
What generation mr.cool has the wifi option?
Mine didn’t work on first day and I got my money back!!
When someone's basement is the size of your house 😢
Cool video nonetheless!
It is very large but keep in mind his upstairs is only one level, so he is doubling his living space by doing this. It's a great way to get space down the road when you have more money to do it, which is exactly what he did.
yea noticed that gotta be back east
True story! 🤣🤣🤣
He had 2 AC units for upstairs also. So, 3 AC units total and concrete walls 3 feet thick. He live on Mercury or something?
@@101perspective depends on location ? here in belgium 1 good unit is enough for a whole house
If you do one again, you can get rid of most of the external concrete damage by noting the pilot drill penetration and moving the drill outside to finish.
These mini-splits are great, and even with inflation making them more expensive, still a better solution for many areas. I'm always a little worried about bending pipes, and would suggest a small pipe bending tool. Good job!
Great tutorial!!
I'm a hvac technician and this explains it very well.
I hope this doesn't take my job lol
Had our HVAC provider install a Mitsubishi mini-split in our master bedroom last year...probably the single best home owner decision we've made. I considered the DIY MrCool system but went with the pros since it was a second story install.
I was quoted about $5600 for a second story Mitsubishi SEER 23 install with a single head
@Birthing Girdle no problem. Keep it mind that I'm in New England so your rates may vary
You did the right thing, because when Mr. Cool breaks no one is going to come and fix it for you.
@Birthing Girdle It was literally a year ago, so prices likely have changed. We live in the Mid Atlantic region (Hint: Joe Biden's home state), the price was $5,450 for a 24 SEER 9K BTU Mitsubishi unit (Outdoor unit model:
MUZ-GL09NA
Indoor unit model:
MSZ-GL09NA
Warranty: 1 year labor and 12 year parts.
Our master bedroom has always been too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter (due to a first floor redesign by the previous owner). After years of using window AC and space heaters we pulled the trigger on the mini-split. We leave the bedroom door open and the unit will help cool the entire 2nd floor of our 4 bedroom colonial. We wish we had done this years ago.
Mitsubishis are very nice units, used to be called Mr Slim. I agree with you, The Mr Cool is as good as you can get without going that route, especially for DIY
Honestly, this is more of a look what I did video vs being informative. You left out A LOT and always leave these projects to a professional, professionally speaking.
I am not sure why I watched this, I dont own a house. Your videos just make me feel good
You might be able to help someone, and charge them a little on the side.
All skills are useful, eventually.
Once the center bit made that little hole on the outside, you should have taken your cement bit to the outside and finished the cut making it look nice.
Local guy quoted me 14k for the install of a 4k system. These markups are just insane so I really appreciate you uploading this!
Installed the 36k btu model last year. It's really as easy as it looks. Including all the wiring and accessories I needed, came out to about $2,400. I got quoted 6-7 grand to have one installed by an hvac company.
I really appreciate you sharing this. I know many watch the video and think it's too good to be true, but this one is real. Glad you had a good experience too my friend absolutely loves it.
6-7 grand what the hell thats expensive... Here it is 2k-3k € all included.
@@Noobletti $6-7k and you can have a 5 ton central ac installed by some honest hvac guys lol. Got quoted $5800 for a 5 ton heat pump in east Texas!
You get a warranty when you go through an hvac company. Lots of hvac companies won’t warranty customer supplied equipment.
@@2004elcamino Mr Cool gives you a warranty and they already have dealers in most states. But keep in mind they will usually just ship what you need if anything just like when you got the original unit.
I worked as technician for installing these ac i really recommend to put your tube under pressure with vacuum pump and check for leaks then vacuum the tubes and turn the gas on that way you can be sure to not lose any gas it's good for environment and your pocket 😉
Not to mention, you don't want any outside air or water in the air into an ac compressor.
I thought this as well. I wonder if this will last?
Under 500 microns
Aren't those pipes sealed with vacuum already and a seal inside is broken when the gas is released. Is that right?
Vacuum pumps do not pressurise. Pressurising the lines, to check for leaks, is done with a gas, like nitrogen.
You can also get a bracket to mount the outside unit up on the wall of your house. I did this because where mine had to go was right near a driveway. But putting it up on a wall (above head height) means it won't get hit by lawnmowers, or covered with snow, and makes it harder to steal.
This is basically a Company Installation tutorial video. Great vid
Living in China for ten years, this kind of system was quite the norm. I've seen them install this in apartments 30 flights up on the outside of the apartment. I've seen them also do similar in large houses outside major cities. These fan units on the wall high up are so quiet, AND the unit outside is also unusually quiet. This how they zone their rooms. We should have this kind of system a long time ago. Thanks for bringing back memories.
Me doing this install (figuratively speaking)-
Day 1 - Unit shows up w/ mounting plate bent, and a dent in the main unit. Call manufacturer, they tell me to contact the shipping company. Contact the shipping company, they tell me to contact the Manufacture. Back to the shipping company to file a claim - 2 weeks later new unit shows up.
Day 15 - Rain
Day 16 - Slip and slide through mud digging out roots to level out base pad, takes ALL day - trek mud through the house when heading inside.
Day 17 - Rent carpet cleaner
Day 18 - Units leveled outside, head inside to find my spot - the ONLY spot is 21 feet away from the unit outside, a foot too far. Back outside to move unit/dig roots.
Day 19 - Time to mount that plate inside - Forgot my neighbor borrowed drill, he's not home.
Day 20 - Wife asks me what's taking so long, I never do anything!
Day 21 - All set, time to drill - need an extension cord. Head to shed and naturally it's on the back wall so pull out the Mower, 3 kiddie pools, 75 shovels/rakes, 45 lawn chairs, get attacked by a raccoon - start drooling - head to the Hospital.
Day 21 Continued - that night - Wife says "you going to leave all that stuff outside of the shed?".
Day 22 - Go to the basement to stare at the wall.
Day 53 - I Finish staring at the wall and decide to hire a contractor who specializes in ductless A/C units.
forgot back goes out on first day and cant hardly get out of bed to use bathroom for at least 2 weeks... leave stuff outside... its stolen as they do in many places where THEY SEE IT... THEY STEAL IT.... if dont set it in REINFORCED CONCRETE WITH BIG LEGS INTO THE GROUND and expanded metal cage around it so it cant be stolen ... easily... and surrounded by bushes so they cant see it... but the unit can still breathe and can be worked on if necessary... a nice shed over it to keep blazing sun off it and the leaves/snow/rain etc.
Bro do you mean you trek dirt in with your shoes or your bare foot?
Just Asking...
A lot of people are confused about the line set and vacuum requirement. There are at least two options for this brand of A/C. One option comes with open line that must be cut to length, and nitrogen purged, pressure tested, and vacuumed. The other option ( The one shown here) has a line set that is sealed and pressurized with refrigerant and has special fittings that allow connection to both inside and outside units and does not require vacuum. Also, in both cases the condensing unit contains refrigerant that is released into the system when everything is connected.
A vacuum is always required. There is moisture present in the air, and without first pulling a vacuum, you are introducing moisture to your system that the condenser unit will never be able to condense.
@@andrewsmith9678 how much more efficiently will it run with a vacuum vs without?
@@andrewmckinlay2964 I don’t know the answer to that question. But I do know that this outdoor unit will burn itself out trying to condense moisture.
@@andrewsmith9678 - The line-set is pre-sealed/charged to match the heat pump . . . . the connectors pierce each other when connected allowing no external air to enter. As long as your connecting procedure follows the instructions without backing off for any reason the installation will be air/contaminant/moisture free with the 'perfect' factory charge. Kind of like buying a refrigerator !
IF you allow the initial connection procedure to fail ( open to atmosphere ) . . . DUH !
@@andrewmckinlay2964 - The line-set is pre-sealed/charged to match the heat pump . . . . the connectors pierce each other when connected allowing no external air to enter. As long as your connecting procedure follows the instructions without backing off for any reason the installation will be air/contaminant/moisture free with the 'perfect' factory charge. Kind of like buying a refrigerator !
IF you allow the initial connection procedure to fail ( open to atmosphere ) . . . DUH !
I have the Media window Mini split you reviewed last year. That thing is amazing. 92 and humid in Florida outside. 74 and comfortable inside. Plus my AC bill is 35% less.
So glad to hear that. That one is amazing. Not the cheapest but easily the best window air condtioner made!
These Midea splits are beautiful and work great. I have a 18000 Btu system for my 130 square feet bedroom, which I bought for $350 here in Bangladesh and got it installed for $36. Sometimes I feel like I'm in the north pole and specially for so cheap!
There’s no better feeling in the world than to enjoy a cold room from a system you installed yourself.
I purchased a MrCool 24K 3rd Gen for a 1,000 sq foot 2nd floor in my Condo. I installed it in March 2021 because I was preparing for the dreaded 120 degree weather in Los Angeles. I paid $1,800. Normally it gets 95 degrees because the Sun faces my floor for 5 hours. MrCool keeps me freezing COLD (kicks out 55 degrees cold at lowest temp) even when it is over 100 plus outside. However my LADWP bill went from $800 per MONTH to $150 per month because MrCool is more energy efficient than my central air conditioning. I did 4 months of testing and compared bills from the last 5 years. MrCool not only you keeping me freezing cold (temp gun) but your saving me $$$ per month during the summer.
Back in the late 90's I was installing " Sanyo splits" It's good to see a unit available for the homeowner to install and save huge. These are much more efficient and quiet.
Love it
I remember when this units were $5, 000 in Puerto Rico,plus install.
And look now is so cheap and easy to install. Thats unbelievable!!!
I can do this my self !!!
5:25 (tip) make sure the platform is level first and to make higher put more dirt or w/e the platform is going on. To lower you just take some material out and put the level on the platform first. It will make it much easier than doing it with the unit on the platform.
Yup and compact that base down first before installing the pad. Dirt settles, so just because it is level now doesn't mean it's going to stay that way in a month/year. The guy making this DIY video clearly didn't watch any DIY videos himself first and it shows.
I'm in LOVE with that basement!!
In February we stayed at an air-bnb in Georgia in what the listing said was a Cabin. It was more like a large SHED converted into livable space - that's another topic for another day. But it did have one of these Mr Cool units. Unfortunately the heat didn't seem to stay on for more than a couple of hours before it would start blowing cool air. It seemed like if you turned the unit off and on it would work again but that was unreliable. Regardless we were glad to only stay in that "cabin" for only one night. It was a unique and unforgettable experience that's for sure!
From a retired HVAC tech ...
Good Job
Very informative
Should have mentioned the efficiency of your unit and whether or not it was a combo heat pump/ac unit
Great video
Hopefully it doesn't snow there
@@dillard715 We installed one (different brand) in our shop last winter up here in Canada where it goes well below freezing for much of the winter and it did a very nice job of keeping it warm. We've had one in our (mostly) uninsulated lunchroom for a few years now and does just as well.
Important to mention that you can skip the line set vacuuming / evacuation step ONLY with the MRCOOL DIY style units because their line sets are actually charged with the refrigerant. If you do this with other units you’ll have problems.
Not true.......
All if the "DIY" kits have pre-charged refrigerant lines. The systems that don't are specifically for professional commercial installations.
The second you hook them up you contaminated the refrigerant and the vacuum also proves you don’t have a leak. R410a refrigerant is bad for the ozone layer and is not supposed to be leaked out. This was a poor showing on the product and cooling and efficiency of the unit is hurt in the process.
If you pause at 6:06 you can see that the lines have fittings like a hydraulic line quick connect. I can only guess MrCool evacuates the line of air and adds some refrigerant so no vacuuming needed.
@@Monzataylor31 this unit's do not require to vacum the lines for 30 minutes lines are precharge if you look closer the lines have special connectors.
I love DIY HVAC guys. You keep the service calls rolling in! Thanks!
As an HVAC technician, I approve this comment.
Can I second it
I just put a Mr Cool 36,000 btu in my house. It is AMAZING and I Love it!!!
I installed a 36kBTU version of this. It cost 2 1/2 times as much, but it's much bigger, has three indoor units, and wow are the additional line sets expensive! But I wanted a warranty, and these are the only option for that for self-installs. Mine took much longer, but I also did, well, a better installation, with a concrete pad I poured, extra line set length in the attic instead of outside, and I replaced the drywall underneath the indoor units with plywood (I'd never use toggle bolts for something like this). I rigged up a method of temporarily hanging the indoor units so I could test their connections for leaks before permanently mounting them. I ran the condensate lines into wall-mounted PVC pipes (this is in my shop, so appearance is less important), as the flimsy tubing they provide didn't inspire confidence.
The system has worked great for almost a year! No complaints, other than that the louver position setting is a joke, and the app doesn't always correctly display what the units are doing (restarting it fixes that). Long term reliability is a concern, as these are just rebranded Midea systems, but so far so good, and the 7 year warranty is very nice.
4 hours with help, and they knew what they were doing.
For a layman, expect 1 to 2 days.
That was me. But I also had to trench and bury a 240v supply line in the yard to my shed.
That's why hiring a pro may cost you less than DIY. You may f*ck up a lot of things that will cost more than the actual installation. Why is so many people cheap anyway? You got a job, it's obvious you think you deserve to get paid, but you think that other professionals should be working for min wage or less... That's many people's thinking.
pretty sure they used more than 4 hours.
@@MrDomestosWC The problem is, the pros charge too much for this type of work. Typical install costs for a 1 ton minisplit, where the unit itself is about $1500, are typically $4000+. Even if it took the pros 8 hours (it doesn't), that would be over $350/hr. Pretty far from minimum wage. I think $100-$150/hr, with a total cost of around $2500-$3000 would be much more compelling vs. DIY.
HVAC guys are scared of these things, and with good reason. It makes DIY possible, without expensive tools, and most of the work is easily done by reasonably competent DIYers. They're starting to offer traditional split systems as DIY - that will be interesting.
@@bnasty267 I agree with you. HVAC guys hate splits for a reason though, the installation on some units can be a nightmare. Also, I don't know how it looks like in your town, but my local jurisdiction (Calgary) requires electrical permit to be pulled with the final inspection for the AC. DYI is not an option in that case. I had two guys installing the central unit in my place (VERY weird townhome). It took them a full day (approx. 12hrs shift for both). They brought everything, the unit, the coil, lines, connected the electrical, pulled the permit, run testing, built a cover pergola to masque the AC unit etc. They had to run it thru common area concrete. It costed me nearly 5k. I know the cost of the supplies and permit was approx. $2k. So $3k/24hrs is approx. $125 per hour for each. $5k seemed like a lot at first but then I didn't realize they would spend so much time on it. They even had to remove the pooper in the bathroom for the rough-ins and rearrange some lines. I'm happy as they did a fantastic job and I do realize I wouldn't be able to DIY, even though I fully understood the sequence and logic (I'm an engineer). I had no tools and no hands-on experience. I see that most HVAC guys are scared of splits, they have no experience with it, while in Europe (where I'm originally from) it's the most common thing. Central AC in EU is exotic. That's probably the reason why.
It's good we are finally getting mainstream split units in the usa .
I couldn't agree more, I have seen these overseas like crazy for ages.
They are not without their flaws!!!
Every 5 years or so (depending on usage and indoor air quality)they need a full cleaning
They build up black mold inside because of the cool damp environment
I charge CAN$500 for the full cleaning... if you balance that out it's about $100/yr maintenance
Just be aware of this
@@walterbrunswick That news to me, and I appreciate your input, bud. 👍
$100 in maintenance isn't too bad. You no longer have a window shaker to clean every year and no window shaker!
@@jonanderson5137 its 500$, not 100$
If he didn't already, make sure that drain line is below the refrigerant lines and slopes slightly downwards through that hole in the wall, otherwise you'll have condensate running around inside the interior wall!
It’s not a window air conditioner. The condenser is outside so there’s no need anyway. Quit being a moron
Well the suction line is usually insulated so that shouldn’t be a problem
@@lostinthewoods3918 nothing to do with insulation, if the line doesn't slope at a downward angle the water could flow back into the air handler!
Yep. Install instructions on mine very clearly called for a slight downward slope coming out of the wall.
@@rortify let's try and at least keep the comment section civil here. The air handlers create condensate and the manual clearly states a downward angle. Try sloping it up and see what happens.
imagine having great tools but not a stud finder.
Hahaha. Good point. That's what I thought.
I thought a tape measure was a stud finder.
@Mark A. Demaline Not every wall is 16 on center.
...I dunno whut I'm talkin about !
Might not have studs in the exact location you want to mount the unit. Toggle bolts work just fine
@@bentonrp I am not talking about mounting the unit. I am talking about cutting a stud, even if it is not structural, moving over an inch and a half and no worries about having to cut through a stud for zero reason.
Based on the finished project's appearance, I would have saved myself a ton of money and time and just installed a slick looking window unit. Unless there isn't sufficient clearance for said window unit I can't imagine going through all this for something that looks just as bad as a window unit. Perhaps this was meant more as an advertisement and in that case you failed miserably to gain my endorsement based on all of the previously mentioned points. But it was a pleasant enough video and did not seem too terribly difficult to install. Kudos for a well shot and written production that does everything right except foster the enthusiasm required for such an undertaking. Thanks again for the video.🙃
When the drill bit come through the wall you should have come around & finish drilling from the outside. That way the hole would of been clean instead of busting out
I was thinking the exact same thing, but it might be hard to line up the holes exactly.
Yeah I guess we all have the same thought.
These no duct split systems are truly game changers now that they're coming down in price.
The four that I installed were also much more efficient than the window units they replaced -- very low bills for the tenants!
@@Duke_of_Prunes lower power bill maybe but maintenance no.
This 24k unit has actually gone up $650 since feb 2019 😢
@@TheMax13542 What maintenance? Cleaning or? Just curious
@@Skeetah3113 there is a blower wheel inside the wall units which will grow mold and its pretty common after 5 years for the fan to lose airflow because of it and you have to cover the surrounding area with plastic and literally hose them out. you still have filters like a regular ac, still have coils that need to be regularly washed. everything inside these things are plastic so it very common after 5ish years to break pieces when servicing. the whole system is controlled by a board with multiple temps/ pressure sensors which are prone to fail at some point. If the board fails don't be suprised to fork out 1k to fix it. refrigerant leaks are also very common on the flare fittings that connect the copper lines to the units and let tell you it is a nightmare trying to fix one on a unit hanging 6ft in the air.
I would set up each outside wire/tubing connector in a “drip loop” configuration to prevent rainwater from getting into the interior of the condenser mechanicals. Beautiful setup. You’ family will be enjoying the fruits of your labor a long time.
Look forward to seeing your video on the install.
Wow, I can do this. Saved me a whole lot of money with this video. Thanks bro
Nice house. Pretty easy install.
I really love ducks. Glad is duck free.
We instal one last summer, it works well until this year. No more freon in the unit. A professionnal come to check it, the installation is great and did'nt know why it's empty. He refill it and it cool again. Really disapointed, we change it soon. If you want an a/c unit it's better to use professionnal service to have guaranty and pieces.
Yeah and don’t buy some cheap brand from costco
Mines has been working 3 years straight heat and air
@claudine laflame, Mr. Cool and similar cheap products are only worth it if you install them. If you pay a professional to do the install, then you might as well spend a little more and get a quality product like Mitsubishi.
Once the pilot bit of the core saw pokes through, stop. Then drill from the outside to get a clean hole on each side
Absolutely, but if you look the original compressor was outside and we only had about 10" to work, the bit itself was 14" long, nevermind the tool.
Silver Cymbal, as thin as what was left it could have been hand chiseled. Still great video and informative. Thanks
I think you should put the 220vac supply power and communication wires into a seal tight for extra protection also prolongs it life.
It looks like all day job to me! In addition if you live in Massachusetts then your condenser should be mounted on a stand or a wall bracket that’s at least 12in above the ground to avoid snow filling up during winter time !
2000 dollars. Not bad at all. I was quoted for a full AC central unit around 9000 dollars plus mileage. Thanks for the video.
This reminds me of LinusTechTips' AC installation with ✨BRYAN THE ELECTRICIAN✨
Just got done watching them. I definitely don’t see it only being 4hrs
@@JOKERETHANCORDELL that 4 hour doesnt include the time required for power oultet and 220v
@@JOKERETHANCORDELL if your an experienced installer an ac should take 2-3 hours max
I have that same Milwaukee rotary hammer. Best quality to price ratio around, and it is good enough for professional use.
That one was a rental, but it was definitely quite a tool!
Very cool. I’ve installed 2 ymgi units in my home several years ago. They are very similar to these but require a hvac tech to properly charge the system. I have been very pleased with them.
However these units you showed are great. I really like that I could install myself. I will definitely be keeping these in mind the next time I need one.
Great video
These systems are used all over Asia and they really work great.
when we install AIR CONDITIONING like this one before we let the gas loose we use a vacuum tool to be on the safe side + no air in the lines where the gas is the name of AIR CONDITIONING we use is qulima and costs around 1433 usd takes around 2- 3 hours to install there are 2 types of connectors 1 fast where the gas runs free as soon as the connector is locked the other type is like this video where we a vacuum too before letting the gas trough the pipes about the video that was a nice clean set up and the way you placed tho out door part i think was nice
Great system! I did it myself, love the unit! Very easy, very efficient.
Gow big of an area can it cool?
@@phillipmontoya5326 it depends on the size you buy. They have one small enough to plug into an electrical 110 outlet and they have one large enough to cool your home.
What was your most difficult part of the project for you? I’m debating on getting these.
@@_abbilina_ there was nothing hard about it. I enjoyed doing it took probably an hour or a hour and half something like that.
Loving the DIY spirit. I think you guys did an excellent job. Top shelf system installed for a fraction of the price a contractor would have charged....home run in my book.
Except it's not installed right. They never vacuumed down the system before releasing refrigerant. If they run it like that the system wont last long at all. Head pressures arent checked with HVAC gauges. And temp drop wasnt measured. You need about 2k worth of equipment to do it right that they didnt show in this video
@@MassiveGarbage it's definitely not an extra 5k. I guess it depends on the contractor, but my company offers name brand for around the same price and you're paying labor. Maybe 2k depending on how many heads and how extensive everything else is. Power needs to be run. If the panel is right there then that's cheaper already. So for an extra 2k, you get one of the best brands and professionally installed. It will last you 10 years longer than this one will. Easy. Maybe even longer.
@silence19999 wow that is astronomically high in price! Now I understand why home owners want to do this themselves! Is that in a bigger city? Where I'm at I could do that job for around 14k give or take. I can install a mini split for around 7-8k all day here. I know labor rates fluctuate big time depending on location. But that massive difference in cost isn't all labor lol. Wow thanks for enlightening me on what others are charging. That's insane!
@silence19999 ahhh. Yeah I guess that makes more sense actually. You probably don't have very many choices between heating companies so there isn't much of a competition to keep prices low.
@6:50 - Insert step: Connect vacuum pump to gauges and service port. Draw a vacuum and hold for 15 min; If no change in negative pressure, continue to vac for 30 min to dry out the lines, close up, then proceed to let the gas out... If you had a leak and did it without a test, then you'd lose your charge to the leak... Plus it's best to remove the atmospheric air from the lines...
..ahh thanks for the correction "there are two versions", and this is the one with a sealed and purged lineset.
I work in that field and i highly encourage to vacuum out the copper lines before you let the refrigerant gas in the lines !! The fact that this step was skipped may leave contamination and moisture inside the lines and with time the condenser will get damaged and the performance of the machine will be greatly reduced, you absolutely need to hook a vacuum pump on there and vaccum out any contamination down to AT LEAST 500 MICRONS (there is a special gauge made by yellowjacket for this) and also if the tines are directly going to the wall and into the condenser the unit might freeze when cooling because the refrigerant do not have enoug room fully diffuse its temperature after hitting the coil inside the machine ! (Excuse my bad english) my first language is french) but really guys be cautious with this machinery it is really sensible to moisture and contamination any line that is smaller in lenght than 10 feet in a back to back installation has a higher risk of freezing simply because the lines are too short to diffuse the temperature in between the gaz cycles
Congratulations on your new unit!
Pro Tip--
When the drill bit sticks out but the hole saw's "cup" has not broken through, take the drill outside and go from the other side to avoid blow-out of the concrete.
Also, make sure it is sealed from water/frost/ice/air/rodents/etc. Some zoning codes may require a higher or lower hole in the wall because various factors like snow or structural concerns. If in doubt, ask first instead of cry later.
How do you line up with the hole on the other side?
Addition to your protip, keep the bit wet to avoid a blow out. It will cool the bit and cool the material brick / concrete from exploding, hence friction and heat build up.
There are a lot of comments about the lines need to be vacuum down. What many don't seem to get is these lines are pre charged with refrigerant MrCool has made it easier for DIY. Read the site if you don't believe the comment. Specifically the DIY models.
They still won't believe it, because most are techs that don't return calls, or want to install these but they also don't want homeowners to do it themselves.
No, most are techs that have to go back and fix these when an incompetent home owner (and I am not saying you or all home owners are, but there definitely are a lot) mess them up and it takes their time away from their actual customer base. Most people don't realize this, but the "extra" you pay for a professional to install a system is for the service they will provide you years down the road, not some huge profit margin, cause that's just not there.
Maybe I am missing something here. But even if a tech is coming out because the home owner installed it incorrectly aren't you still be paid for that service. Even if it's taking away from your customer base you still have a chance to earn new customers. Maybe not for that job but for most of these install it's addition to their regular heating and cooling system. I know there are some that do their whole house with these split system but most of those are install by a tech.
@@xalint1 You are 100% correct. This is what plumbers said when sharkbites came out, then the stories of sharkbites failing everywhere and plumbers having pick up the pieces. All fake stories of course. The people buying these DIY units were likely never hiring anyone in the first place so nothing is lost and as you said service calls, etc all are new revenue.
Just so you know, the lines aren’t whats charged. The condenser is. Not pulling a vacuum = moisture in the lines = acid in your compressor which will lead to failure but hey, I’m only a professional.
Was unfamiliar with these systems. Thanks for the info. Straight to the point and simply explained.
Question though, Why did you not center unit inside between the 2 windows. Sorry bud, that would bother me every time I see it .
Cuz he wanted to cut through a metal stud instead? Cuz he's blind? Cuz he doesn't know what he's doing? Take yer pick!
Really nice to see North America using these A/C units. I can get the same unit for 1/4 of the price. So hopefully you all will start seeing cheaper options on the market soon.
Never been interested in AC before but I love your vids. I also got an ad right before this video for the same one haha
To avoid the concrete spilling you can finish the last drill core from the outside using the center bid hole as a guide.
The correct term is spalling, Mr. know-it-all, and if you looked, the same suggestion was made over a year ago.
*_This looks so awesome!_* 🤗
*_I can already imagine the nightmare I'd have to deal with, though. For these guys - Less than 4 hours. For ME - Around 3 weeks, 2 trips to the ER 🏥 and a few visits with my shrink._* 🤨🧐
These units look cool. I would of course pay a professional to install it and be done with it. If they screw it up, the responsibility is on them and NOT ME! Nothing in my house is NORMAL so I would never take this on myself.
Hope it doesn't snow where that is because if u use it for heat an snow is around condenser fan it won't last long. Should be 2' off the ground. Minimum 18". BTW I'm a professional HVAC technician
I'm surprised they didn't pull a vacuum on the lineset after connecting it.
HVAC tech here aswell...yeah when I saw that they didn't pull a vacuum on those lines going to the evaporator I wanted to cry a bit.Now your system has air in it, the moisture in the air will turn the compressor oil acidic over time and the compressor wil kill itself from the inside in the long run.
I didn't even watch the entire video cuz I was getting upset just watching. He didn't put it on vac? Yea that unit is not gana last very long
If you noticed the connections are not flared. The linset and indoor coil are preevacuated. I agree this should still not be diy. I'll have to watch again now to see about the disconnect NEC violation
I agree with the height, makes good sense to do that. the rest of the replies, anyone that is an HVAC tech knows they don't know the new systems coming out. read the manufacture's info first. for example, are you all aware you can now buy your own R134 in a can and recharge your own system? sure maybe it has leaks, maybe you overcharge because you can't read the gauge on the can, maybe the inline filter needs replaced, maybe its too cold now but your better half is still sweating in the 110 degree heat. But not talking about all the what ifs, in this case, this unit, is sealed until you connect the fitting. They already have it vacuumed and the fitting is designed to stay sealed until the seal is broke on fastening. Maybe it still lets in air, moisture or a cricket or two, well its not supposed to and if that happens then it isn't because you didn't follow the directions. Now there are split units that still require it to be pumped down. but if you read about this unit he wrote that he used in this case, you don't. Can you? sure, I can also take my tire back off the car rim after the guy installs it, to be sure the rim bead is in good shape... but probably won't undo what someone that makes or manufactures just to see if they did the job they say they did. I have a friend with a small shop and he has had one of these running now for at least 2 years if not 3. No complaints there but he also has all the HVAC gear to fix it if it did. Anyway, wish people would quit posting about pumping it down, we have moved into a new era of HVAC and for simple things, they are trying to catch the niche market of people wanting to do it themselves, without needing a specialist. Will it last or fail in a few years like the old plastic water lines and such, I don't know. but I have one ordered and while we do have vacuum pumps I do not plan on using it since they do not say to do it in the instructions. That is my rant, good video. Now about the code issue, well, if there is code enforcement where he lives then they should take advantage of that assurance, but I would not shirk on safety for disconnects. But then again, if you only put a wire staple every 14 inches instead of 12 inches, is your home going to definitely or even more likely burn down....
As an installer this was comical to watch! 😂. Good effort none the less!
Who needs vacuum???
It's a nice idea to understand how to drill first. Use a path finder before installing..... But this is a really easy DIY.
You really do produce some of the best DIY content on RUclips. Thanks for taking the time.
This looks like something that almost everyone would have professionally installed.
Anyone who has an extra $3 Grand to spend! Did this myself about 6 years ago, piece of cake. I plan to do another for the main part of the house later this year. Full disclosure, I do work with tools of all kinds on a regular basis. I would not recommend trying this to someone who has no experience working with copper tubing or hand tools. But the average "DIY home engineer" should have no problem.
@@patricialorentzen4874 did you vacuum the system? Or did you follow these instructions and contaminated your system? 🤔
America is really a decade or two behind modern Era. All of major cities in Asia and Europe has been using mini split ACs 2 or 3 decades ago and we are here thinking "oh this is nice"
That's because in the USA most if not all homes are built with AC and in Europe & Asia the homes were probably built before central air/heat ever existed. btw these types of units been here for years but have become more popular than window shakers.
Using central AC isn't a bad thing, it's just a sign that we've used AC for way longer than Europeans or Asians.
That's cause most homes built since the 1980's come with central air and heating. Only houses here with central air are usually older homes and depending where you live you only use a/c 5 months out of the year
I blame Big Air Conditioning
Great tutorial. These units are extremely popular in Texas. Thanks for sharing.
Oh yeah, if you using a window unit, I'm sure that purchasing a $2400 split system will be no problem.
my thoughts exactly, using a 500$ industrial hammer drill Is not DIY. I don't even want to know how much that drill bit cost.
Hahaha
@@samohteel4393 That's why places like Depot rent them.
@@robertpearson8798 How does that process work? Do they really let you walk out with a 500$ drill for 38$?
@@samohteel4393 Yes, provided they have your credit card information in case you never come back. I've rented one of those a couple of times.
In the Philippines , they have only the option of the split-air conditioning unit , no central air conditioning . As this is used in the area of the home where you would be conversing , as it is " quiet " . For the window air conditioning , they have to modify usually a window for the unit . The best I've heard is putting a hole in a wall as high as possible . I suppose in the middle is best ? As heat rises and cold air falls , placing as high as possible to be the most efficient . The specifics and rationale you could easily find . Then they would put a heavy duty metal cage around it . To prevent burglars from removing it and getting inside , as they sadly use children to get inside because of their size . As well , it creates noise to block out the typical roosters and dogs barking .
"Will never find a stud" right after cutting one out?
Was the location inside and the hole thru the wall so critical it couldn't move a couple of inches? Maybe the steel studs aren't useful but I still prefer to get at least a couple of the support screws into studs, and it seems with 14in to 22in between studs the line set could have found a gap without cutting out a stud.
It's a basement so those studs are only there to support the sheetrock.
@@JoshuaBeel naw you can use self tapping screws they thread in much stronger than drywall anchors
@@JoshuaBeel but he is saying it would be better to screw your support bolts into those studs. This guy has a 100 pound unit supported by Molly bolts.
Yes but like he said, they're rated for 120lbs and if you were to only screw into studs, you would have to drill new holes into the bracket which is just a pain in the ass and not needed.
@@JoshuaBeel This house was an exception, with a concrete foundation wall extending up to the first floor. My wood frame home which is typical of older ones has western framing. The exterior studs are ALL load bearing, go sill to roof rafters. Newer ones may have collar joists at each floor or not. Regardless, there's no excuse ever for not knowing where wall studs and utility lines are located before cutting into a wall, especially if you are going to going a load from one. An anchor's rating is not the wall rating.
Awesome! Although I know from experience, 4 hours for you guys means 8-10 hours for ME haha....or more XD. Still, makes me want to try it though...
Wow I like this definitely buying this for the house
Asia countries had this for over 20 years. I didn't understand why I couldn't find it in US for such a long time.
Lmao "don't use a $100 window unit, use this $1500 unit" 😂
You won't get a window unit that is 24,000BTU and also produces heat too for winter
@@SilverCymbal Right. And when your old those window units are tuff to take in and out each year.
@Silver Cymbal Sure you can they make window units up to 36,000 btu and with heat modes
@@james4582 but you lose the use of your window! $36,000 btu window unit has to be up there in price.
@LeuCustomKnives That’s true they are bigger and heavier for sure. Most I felt with were thru the wall installation. Some apartment complexes some offices. There not bad if closer to ground easy to slide out of the case had quite a few installed up higher I had a portable high Jack to use for that.
Another thing about window units is parts can be quite exclusive and after about 3-5 years they discontinue them for older units. Controls fan motor and fan blowers and blades can be hard to replace because they are specific to the unit. Us the bigger units 18,000 to 36,000 take 230 volts 20-30 amp circuits.
I’m not an HVAC expert but I thought it essential to pull a vacuum on all refrigerant lines to evacuate the air and moisture.
The lines are pre-charged and do not need to be vacuumed down, they are factory filled with the exact amount of freon and ready for use. They are sealed and only open after being tightened down. Its a clever design that eliminates the vacuum and filling step completely.
@@SilverCymbal very clever.
Definitely a fat thumbs up on this one, great voice over and video footage. I may do this some day. thank you for posting.
Thanks for the HVAC degree! Time to start my business!
What did you do with the extra several feet of line set?
He coiled it up behind the condenser
Coil it up
I'll just run my lines through the attic and out the soffit down the exterior wall and cover with a sheet metal wall cover
Just cut it to length and flare the ends
@@p-mac5969 I don’t believe you can do it with these precharged line sets, they come with 410-a in them and have special fittings that when they are tightened they release the gas so you do not have to pull a vacuum on them for home owners wanting to do a DIY install
I live in Korea and they use these mini splits EVERYWHERE. We have 3 of them in our apartment and they hardly use any electricity. At night we turn off everything but the room we are sleeping in. Makes sense right? In the US we were running 2 big central air units trying to keep the entire house cool. It's about time the United States caught up with Asia and Europe!
I have noticed that for years in videos and I think you are right that the popularity here is soaring for all those reasons. I also like not having ductwork collect dirt, mold, etc. seems cleaner.
@@SilverCymbal Thanks. Yes it's crazy how slow people are in the US to change. Our ductwork in our house in the states is all in the attic and it gets 140 up there in summertime. (60 for celsius) So our big central A/C units are trying to cool that hot air 24 hours a day. The first thing I am doing when we get back is installing mini splits like in this video! It will save me a ton of money on electric.
@Biggus Dickus Bro don't try to twist my words out of context. Yes. When it comes to certain construction techniques the USA is behind Asia and Europe. Why would you run a big central A/C unit 24 hours a day when you don't need to. Also home construction in general. In Asia and Europe they build houses out of concrete and rebar. No hurricane or tornado can knock that down. In the US they are still building houses like cardboard boxes along the coastlines no less. Literally nothing but 2x4's spaced 16" and then OSB and insulation and plastic vinyl siding. Even a small hurricane can destroy that kind of construction. I love the USA and I am coming back to retire there but yes we are behind the rest of the world in construction technology.
@@hyper2.034 I agree. They do look kind of cheap and cheesy hanging there on the wall but they are very quiet and efficient and they cool a room great. Or heat a room in winter if you get the heat pump. The ones I have had will heat way down below freezing too. Eventually they will quit heating tho if it gets too cold. Then you have a problem. LOL.
2 grand? Wow that's super affordable. I think I will be installing one next summer.
Bruh that is affordable?
Well... nvm as I was writing this and thinking.
It really is worth it. The condenser and the ac for 2k is good deal.
That's crazy expensive you can get a 2 ton amana mini split for 800 dollars minus the rest of materials you need to install
I mean don’t forgot that Milwaukee hammer drill he used is like a 500$ dollar tool. If you don’t have one I guess you can rent it. But if you don’t thats 1/4 cost of the job right there.
Said no one ever
Deangelo Dee oh cut the shit.
This seams like it would be a big market for businesses to pursue for the DIYers in my opinion. The only thing that would concern me with this is the products quality and length of usage compared to say like units from Mitsubishi or other top AC/Heat manufacturers
I am very impressed with this video. Thank you sooooo much👍😎 Please keep em coming👍
Nice work!
But I honestly have to say after having the split types put on our new house, the old style are much much cooler. They disappoint me in cooling so much, I'm contemplating pulling them out. Efficiency and quiet is their strong suit but the old window shakers win the battle. They also make inverter type box units now.
Did you install it yourself? One big problem I saw in this video is that I didn't see them remove air from the lineset, or indoor unit before letting refrigerant out of the system. Air is much harder to compress so basically they're diluting the refrigerant with air making it less effective. Never installed one of these, but if this is how they intend for it be installed its likely not going to cool as well as a window unit, or central AC.
@@TheNeoLoneWolf True. I saw no evacuation. This is a must. Yes I installed them myself.
I do all my own AC work.
Great video, I’ve been thinking about getting one of those for the basement in our new house. Looks fairly simple as long as you’ve got the correct tools 👍👍
Fun fact: the guys who made this video don't have the correct tools and skipped or skimped on vitally important steps.
@@Mattjammarwhat steps?
@@_abbilina_ evacuating the line set and evaporator; I don't care how tight those connections are, each of those brass connectors are going to be allowing air and moisture into the system when connected.
Also, it is illegal to use refrigerant as the primary leak detection method.
A properly installed system is pressure tested with nitrogen (not refrigerant), leak searched if it does not hold pressure, put under vacuum, and then, only if the vacuum holds, release refrigerant and adjust charge as necessary.
@@_abbilina_ also, it's convenient to note that guy who made this video is sponsored by Mr. Cool
1500.00 for a 24k unit through Costco. Finishing my install tomorrow.
Looks Good. Explained Well. Nice Unit. Thanks.
I've been thinking about going this for years but didn't want to have to bring a guy out to fill the refrigerant. That's great to know some come pre filled these days.
No matter what connections you have be it the one's in this clip or flared connections you have to pressure test for leaks usually 1.3 times the max discharge pressure 38.5 bar 4 at least 4 hrs depending on the size of the system then evacuate the system to reach lower then 500 microns which could take 3 to 4 hrs this is the right way to commission a split or vrf system purging refrigeration gas to find leaks is not good and wrong practice says a install engineer with 15 yrs experience
8 cfm vacuum pump and a 1/2” hose will have that bad boy down to 250 microns in 5 minutes🤘🏻
Window units are much cheaper and still much quicker and easier to install. Also, they can be easily removed/moved.
I own an HVAC company and in my experience, more often than not the factory made flare fittings on the premade line sets almost always leak. I often have to cut them off flare them myself. I gauruntee that if you don't have the right tool and don't know what you are doing you will have major problems and may even ruin the system.
I was told to pressure test the line set at all time and vacuum pump the lines as well I did not see that at all why is that ? I need answers plz
@@xxavi213 Yes, that is correct. Refrigerant lines should always be thoroughly pressure tested with nitrogen. A vaccum pump should then be used to drawn down the system to 500 microns for any system utilizing R-410A refrigerant. This is necessary to ensire any moisture or non condensing gases are purged from the system. Skipping these steps can lead to costly issues down the line.
@@roux5044 This particular unit - the Mr. Cool DIY series - uses sealed and precharged linesets. No purging or vacuuming needed.
What you said is correct for other brands of units, but not for the Mr. Cool DIY.
@@roux5044 yup I knew it thanks I’ve been doing Hvac for 5 years and still learning not very familiar with mini splits but I have installed some
@@roux5044 to me they taught that it needs to be 270microns
Cutting holes into studs and mounting a heavy AC onto drywall nice 👍👍
Just put these in a indoor sports court. Works great!