How To Remove A Stuck Piston With A Master Tech
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2022
- How To Remove A Stuck Piston With A Master Tech | Y Legal Racing
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In today's video we show the new apprentice how to remove a slightly stuck piston. Basic engines 101
This video will be handy for anyone that like chaos in the morning.
#automotiveengineering
#futuretech
#ford
#s550mustang
#obstrucks
#mechaniclife
#DIY
#musclecar
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#dragracing 
Авто/Мото
Burnt oil is the best for that kind of projects let it soak . Got to love it .
Smells great
Torch Heating the cylinders from inside the water jackets with the freeze plugs removed saves the pistons.
I'd like to see that
Was the rust too deep where a .030 or .060 overbore wouldn't have cleaned it up?
a bore job can fix it, all rod bearings shot and obviously the piston are not useable, my buddy who wanted the motor was told the bottom end was useable. going 30 or 60 over would work, but that also mean going 30 over pistons with a full bottom end rebuild, which is out of the budget. video was for fun
#ford can you help me out with a used motor?
🤣
Iron block?
Yes iron
Could’ve been saved with patience
Yeah......
Pistons rarely seize to the wrist pin, so it would have been a much better idea to remove the main bearing caps, rotate the crank and then remove it. Seized pistons should always be pressed out downwards into the block because you are moving away from the rusted cylinder wall towards unrusted cylinder wall. You can also use a billet of aluminium machined to fit the cylinder to spread the load on the top of the piston. If the pistons don't seem saveable a socket close to the bore size will do. This way you can remove the piston without damage and without the risk of damaging or cracking the cylinder wall.
I'll note that for next time
I would also suggest "if possible" to remove all caps and take the crank out so you don't damage the journals. Also since some engines are worn, there will be a lip created by the rings on top of the cylinder which prevents things coming out if the rings are stuck inside the piston.
So not only should you press away from the rust, you also press away from that lip.
@@Diglo1 Of course we should also recognise that on some engines the pistons cannot be extracted through the crankcase because there is too little space between the main bearing webs. However for all the reasons previously discussed, pressing the pistons downward first is best and will allow access to the rusty cylinder wall between the top of the piston and the first ring. This can then be removed with a bearing scraper or the cylinder filled with a rust chelator like evaporust and left for a couple of days. Using a chelator is an advantage because it helps free seized rings which would otherwise jam on the wear lip you mention at the top of the cylinder.
Noted
@angusmurray3767 noted
Soak it in a good solution fill it full of oil .
👍🏼
I came here coz wanted to do it myself 😒😪
In this case it's everything you don't want to do
Bore hone the top wtf
we really could, a junk yard roller engine pull out would be the cheaper than repairing this one
@@YLegalRacing it was getting stuck on the combustion ring at the top of the cylinder, it just needed honed
it was siezed everywhere....
@@YLegalRacing then how was it moving? It was seized at the combustion ring. This is normal. You hone the top, with the piston down, then take it out
@@YLegalRacing not to mention taking out the crank first and pushing them out the bottom
What a master, not
Master si
Wish it was a decent motor 😪
Bro ...... You see it now.....
@@YLegalRacing yup now time to hunt for another 351w