How to Remove a Seized Piston
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- Опубликовано: 27 июн 2016
- Update: I had the block bored 40 over and the crank turned 20 over on both the rods and the mains. I have since built the engine with Tim Meyer flattop pistons and a mild cam 268h from computer cams. And of course an edelbrock intake and 1405 edelbrock carburetor.
How to remove a piston using a rag, gasoline, and ATF. This is on a Ford 400 but will work on just about any motor. Not only was the piston seized from being run without oil but also because the motor had sat out in the rain for who knows how long without valve covers or a carb on it.
Here is the link to the video I originally saw but the guy never showed the piston actually being removed so I made my own video.
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Wakes up one morning and thinks 'think I'll put some new piston rings in the old engine'. And that's how the story started!
After the fire has been burning for a while, throw freezing water onto it.
The engine block will crack allowing the piston to be removed!
um i think he wanted the piston and the block in tact and not cracked/busted
I think he was being funny...i hope 😂😂
R/WOOOOOSH jesus fuck people seriously are thick skulled
scatcat1994 I’m gonna try that thanks
Only on piston from below. Aluminum piston shrinks more and faster than cast iron block. Simple physics from mid school.
umm you had made this the worst scenario possible. If you heat the piston it expands and will never ever move, i think the video watched was a troll.
Well I had pounded on the thing for hour trying to get it out. Only reason I did this is cause I was out of options. And it worked so it happy. I've torn apart several motors in my life and have never had one this seized up. The engine had been run dry and locked up. Then sat for several years and got rusted.
Wait until it cools. Heat and cool a couple times to break rust or metallic seizure. If it will ever come apart, this will work.
fire works nice, but you must try to pry it out when it starts to cool, aluminum cools faster so you hit it when it shrinks and cylinder still expanded..
greasemonkeypol
My thought exactly. I would have also given it a few blows from the top end also and alternate direction of force.
if he just pour cold water right after the fire, it might be working much easier
Best way to remove a stuck piston is go past the wrist pin with a solid rod and knock the piston crown off. Then all you have to deal with is the skirt and that's easily collapsed with no support from the top of the piston. I've done it many times. Quick and simple.
Yep. And if its a Ford, put the block in your garden as a 8 hole seed starter, and leave it there.
I could never be so calm with something that doesn’t work the first time like this man lol
Hole saw the piston crown to remove the rod. Fracture the remaining piston with cold chisel.
You can just take a "jitterbug" air hammer muffler gun and start punching holes in the top of the piston with a pointed chisel and just break the piston up until it lets loose.
Thank you for the tips! Husband is rebuilding his 58’ F100 292!
if you apply heat to seized components...wait until after the heat is gone and parts have cooled. you're basically expanding the metals. key part is the piston is made of different material than the block...e.g. different expansion rates. it will come loose, just wait for the heat to dissipate first. this wouldn't be my first choice to pull a block apart...but use what you have. sometimes a fella has no choice.
Good job dude! I love making stuff work that others give up on! The 400 is actually really easy to get to be a strong running motor. Jon Kasse was asked how to get 400 horse power out of one of these... he says easy! Just ad 3 C’s. compression, cam and carburetion. Then pull off plug wires till you get there lol.
I've found the best way to free up a seized engine and it has worked for me many times. I made a big pot out of an old propane tank, put legs on it, put the engine in, fill it with water, build a fire and boil it. Skim off the grease and dirt and your engine can be taken apart with ordinary hand tools and the bonus is that it's as clean as a whistle.
make a video of that please.
Tried that once with simple green in boiling water... worked pretty good but still had to scrub a couple spots that were deep
That's called hot tanking. Lol Of course it's usually only used these days in the clean up process.
I have boiled many engine works great metal trash can simple green and lye drain cleaner leave for 10 ish hrs
50/50 acetone and atf
don't light it let it sit like a week
kenneth pauli not even lol 2 days at most
you start it on fire to make the block expand but not the whole piston so its easier to remove.
She junk.
napthal and at. let it sit
Why does it seem everybody is making videos of reviving burned out cars, trucks and now engine blocks? Giving new meaning to Hot Rod
Thanks for posting this video. Out of curiosity what ever came of this block afterwards? Were you able to use it and how much machine work (or DIY work) did you do to get it running? I'm starting my first project with a BMW M21 diesel, one is running in the car, other is a parts motor but must have had coolant sit in 2 3 4 and 5 for a while as it's seized up.
"you Always see those videos where they set piston on fire and then cut the video to when it's already out" dude you just did the same thing lol
Put diesel on the top of the piston for a week. (Or a month.) then use a wooden block(end wood) that sticks out a little more than the combustion chamber is. put back the cylinder top, tighten the four surrounding cylinder top bolts and the piston will move down. wiggle it up and down with hammer. use thin oil or diesel. finally it will come all the way. To use heat can do the trick, but I would think twice since the cooling water is not there and heat can make serious damage to the cylinder block.
I am in stationary engine restoration so seized pistons are a norm. All I use is a 20 ton jack and it never failed!!!! I am talking about 7" and 8" pistons on Blackstones and Petter-Fielding engines:-))))
I’d assume for best results do the fire flip the engine spray some water on the bottom of the piston and that should cool the piston faster then the cylinder wall and would break the rust my two cents that’s how I’d do it
one thing i have seen on a program trying to un seize a Gloucester gladiator plane was to boil engine oil and put the boiling oil in the cylinders and then after a while tap the crank and low and behold it freed up
Put Ice Cream in the cylinder and park the block outside a Jenny Craig Meeting... Come back after the meeting is over and like magic the offending piston will be gone...
I've used a propane torch to remove stuck bolts and nuts. Even worked on salt water eye bolts to anchors. They go 'tink' and that's the sign it has started popping loose. Would a torch work on the piston and cylinder the same?
I generally use a dead soft copper gasket fabricated for the job also
good way to remove seized pistons is to pour coca-cola in the cylinder and let it sit for few days
Doesn't that make the Coke taste kinda flat, after?
Not sure with this new watery soda. Lol
The proper way to remove it was to make sure you have full coverage insurance and then burn your ford!
What do you do about the marred cylinder now the piston is out?
next time try sea foam deep creep I had some cross threaded impacted spark plugs rusted to some cylinder heads and it got those freed up after letting sit for ten minutes. the spray is expensive but works really good. or use acetone and ATF and let set it'll work to.
I have moved tight things in the past with a Hilti hammer drill, with it set on chisel mode and with a flattened chisel in the end.
I used to have problems with that but i found if bout a week before starting the rebuild put oil in the spark plugs than put back the old plugs or rags if the broke..... Now if you do all that and it still sticks i put pb blaster or some higher grade of penetrating oil overnight and so far those are the only two methods i have needed
That stand acts like a spring and absorbs the blows from the hammer. You had the right hammer and the fire trick. But you should have laid the block on the ground and beat on the piston with a few hard blows.
We all have set backs when working on engines. I couldn't get an exhaust to bolt up to a header once. I had to sit back and think about it. Took the header off the block loosely bolted it to the exhaust and the block where they could all wiggle together. Then bolted them all up at the same time. That worked.
if there was a big ring groove at the top, how you gonna get past that coming out the top.
Alrighty folks. In regards to all these nephsons and their comments. I had been trying to get this piston out for about an hour before finnally deciding to try this. I tear down motors all the time and I've never had one this seized up. I tried a torch before I made this video as well. Only reason I tryed is is cause I saw another video of a guy doin it. And it worked. I wasn't trying to save the piston. I already knew it was gone. The motor was not damaged and it is back from the machine shop in my garage ready to go together. Btw, that sledge had a heavy steel tube as the handle cause the wood handle broke. It weighs almost 40 lbs. it's like picking up a crank shaft.
Guarantee marvel mystery oil would have worked
Tell me more - I've never used it, but what, pour it in the cylinder, wait, knock the piston out?
@canuckguy worried Thanks for that reply.
Stephen and Lori Young me and my friend was hunting years ago and when we was headed home it had got dark and my 30’06 was beside me and we went around a curve and it was gonna side over into his side of the floor board in the 1980 dodge truck with a slant 6 well I reached quick like to grab it and some how managed to knock the safety of and hit the trigger at the same time
It was just a freak accident and the bullet went through the floorboard and hit the top of the frame rail ricocheted up and went through the oil filter and we was only half a mile from my house and didn’t realize that the oil filter was hit and it ran out of oil and locked right when we got there
Well my friend had borrowed the truck from his dad and his dad was a big dude just looking for a good reason to kick my friends ass so the next day I went and got some Marvel mystery oil and put it in all the cylinders and let it soak for a day or so and the starter would not turn the motor or even try so I hooked my truck to it and drug him out the hard top and after a few minutes the motor came loose so I pulled him back to my house and put the plugs in and it fired right up and still runs today and that has been 25 years ago or more so I’m hear to tell you that shit works and the truck only smoked for a few minutes
I’ll never forget it as long as I live and would be a perfect story for commercial👍🏻
50 years ago a guy told me how good MMO was .
Tried it a few time then stopped wasting my $$$ on the fancy looking red can !
NOTHING , nothing will soak down past the top of a well seized & rusted piston in your lifetime !
BTW I have removed many, many pistons from extremely rusted rare blocks just to save the block & never ruined a block or rod & usually never spent more than about 2 hours on an engine even with several stuck pistons .
B Anno I’ve had to beat the pistons out of a few blocks myself in my time and I agree with you cause mmo would not have worked on them but I would not have believed it if I didn’t see it for myself and to think that dodge still runs today amazes me
I’d love to see the pistons in that thing
who the fuck still does up and down videos anymore
Frank Ziola I used my phone and then realized after recording that I made it vertical on accident
I've heard people doing that trick and it not working and what they did was they did that plus used a torch on the Block to get everything super hot and once the fire went out on the piston they would put dry ice on the piston and then it would fall out... you wouldn't even have to hit it. When you watch them do it you can hear the piston contracting and it makes weird popping sounds.
Dont waste the fire, grab some marshmellows and chocolate
Did you try a torch?
Another trick I've seen used us to heat a pan of engine oil so that it's ridiculously hot, and then pour the hot oil into the cylinder, wait 2-4 minutes and hey presto the seized piston is free
uhmm.. heat makes it expand... why not place a piece of dryice on the piston ??
Haven't seen the video referred to, but pretty sure you are supposed-to give it a few minutes after removing the heat source, before hitting it.
Aluminum expands & contracts faster that steel.
You heated both for a while, now give it a few minutes without heat, and as they start to cool, the piston will "shrink" faster than the block.
Did you used to play with matches when you grew up?
this guy has kangaroos in his top paddock what a frootloop.
Next time you run into this problem heat up the cyclinder and sit a bar of parafin was on top and let it melt it's way down past the piston and rings ..wait few mins smack it with a hammer and drift it'll fall out 20xs easier than you can imagine..works Everytime!
Aluminium expands more than cast iron when heated, so the trick is to put a little water in the piston before banging on it, so it contracts while the cast iron cylinder is still hot and expanded!
I did one an engine, its was in the weather for 10 years plus.. it took me 45 minutes to get in out with just a good peace of wood & a sledgehammer, never used fire yet.
I am sure your neighbors love you
Oxy-acetylene torch could do the job quite nicely too.
Lol.
If you have a blowtorch and don't have much time heath the piston so it expand and "break" the rust! Wait it cool (again if you don't have much time you can use water to faster it but i recommend you to just wait) and try to hammer it again.
A even "faster" option (if you have the right tools) would be drill/destroy the piston.
The best way would be leave it on a penetration old/rust cleaner for some days/weeks.
Build a thick plate 2 Bolt over the cylinder hole with a grease fitting inside of it with a hand grease gun you can shove any piston out I don't care how stuck it is
Just a guess, but you would want the piston and the block to get hot. I'm guessing as the piston would cool faster than the block, that's when you would get it to move.
What became of that engine Ay???
Helps if you dont melt the piston to the sleave lol i use a blow torch. Works for me
4:22 sick beat
Another old trick that works well, is to heat the metal around the piston, then hit the piston with some CO2 from a CO2 fire extinguisher. it caused the block to expand, and the piston to shrink. The piston should come out relatively easily. You started OK with the fire, which heated the block. The CO2, when it comes out of the nozzle is very cold.
this should work for my 48 olds been sitting since 68....
two minutes into the video , I said geez heat up the block and smash the piston out, that block looks like a real piece of work.
Help me understand this. Heat the piston, which will make it EXPAND to remove it? Dry ice would have been easier.
The heating and subsequent expansion and contraction breaks down the rust (or whatever) between the 2 components. Multiple cycles of heat are often required to get the job done. Dry ice may work but at what cost and risk of thermal shock?
Can you provide an update? Was the block used, and how much did you have to bore it out?
Mike O'Brien Yeah I’ll post an update in the description
Fill the bore up with coca cola the acidity will eventually break down the rust around the rings after a day or so that's how I done mine when the block was outside for years. Done mine from the top but you could probably flip it and fill the bores from the under side to make sure you get plenty in there. We used to do this as kids on our bicycles too, when the seat post was jammed solid with rust we filled the seat tube up
I guess it just depends on how fast you need to get that seized piston out of there. I had an inline 6 that had been seized for several years and added Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder and let it sit a month. it broke loose pretty quickly.
03:44 YOU MADE A GREAT MUSICAL INSTRUMENT LMAO!
the old school remedy for this problem is, = with an electric hot plate is to heat ,half a quart of fuel oil #2 do not boil the oil, pour it on top of the Piston, let it cool . after the natural expansion , contraction , process and COOL DOWN piston will come out.
An acetylene torch will put a lot more heat stress on the seized piston. Heat it white hot and hit the piston with a cold chisel. The piston will split and come out in pieces.
James Henry Lol shut up aluminium gets white hot?
It seems the cylinder grinder did exactly the same with the piston in the cylinder #1 in my 413 Chrysler engine. The piston was sized due to a melting top end. I saw the broken piston. The skirt didn't seize. It was the result of driving under WOT with a massive air leak (running ways too lean) at the cylinder #1 intake.
When I disassembled this engine, the piston #1 was the sole one with a melted top. All other 7 pistons I could remove myself with a handle and a Tom Tom hammer. Of course I tried the 50/50 mixture out of Acetone and ATF.
If you put in that much heat you can end up overheating the piston bore/sleeve and fracture it.
Think it would have better to heat the engine block, metal expands as it heats up, then while the block is hot try to drive it then, by heating the piston you are making tighter in the bore!
You know if you soak it with penetrating oil and then hit it from the top on the crown of the piston enough to get it loose then it will come right out.
Am I the one thinking that the block is junk and beyond rebuild at this point?
Well the block can now be bored for bigger pistons.
It would make a good boat anchor.
Sleeves are a thing too.....
Well you wouldnt know unless you are familiar with how magnafluxing works. 😁
No you can Sleve any block
I would have tried a chunk of dry ice on top of the piston. It would cause the piston to shrink and I would hit the piston from the top. Connecting rods looked good though.
The small sledge is a 3 lb and the larger one at work we called a ten lb. I know they weigh different than that but at work that was what we called them when asked to get one
Thank you
PB Blaster
I had no idea an engine block was so acoustic.
Did you wanna save the piston? Been a lot easier to just shatter the piston.
Blow torch(propane) works too
diesel thats wat you need....
Aluminum expands more than steel so flood with diesel from a jar in the freezer to shrink piston Not sure about the stress you put on the block. I would have cooked the whole block
You mean contracts with cold. But I got the idea.
It's going to expand.
any problems with seized bolts????!
kenneth pauli bolt came out with ease. If I remember correctly, I think I may have use an impact gun. But maybe a breaker bar. If I had problems with them, I probably would have used a torch to heat em up.
The closer you are to a new car and garage full of flammables, the better.
What's the 400 going in?
The scrap pile.
I would have just heated the block with a torch instead of the piston because when the block expands it will go loose on the piston that takes longer to heat up. how you've done it will probs be no different to room temperature as they've both heated up together and expanded at the same time.
Aaaaannddd again....heat fracture the piston bore/sleeve.
I would have put that Ford block in the garden as an 8 hole seed starter. 😁
There : good as new !
Well for one thing you never supposed to hit a piston up towards the deck to remove it supposed to hit it down towards the crank because that cylinder becomes tapered at the top
You sort of missed the point.
There is a few reasons for heat
The trans fluid and gas fire all do a few things
One of the other comments had it right with expansion rates.
Before you started to remove any piston.
1/ pour trans fluid or WD40 on the under side of the pistons to soak for a day or a week the longer the better.
2/ do the same on top of the pistons. The longer the better.
Setting fire on top if piston does a few things.
1/ expands the piston as it does it crushes the rust and alloy corrosion this allows the fluid to creep in around the piston
2/ it expands faster and more than the cast iron
3/ once the block is hot cold water on the back of the piston "in the piston only" even ice cubes they will disappear fast.
4/ wack that piston as it would have shrunk quite a bit.
Thats why at first you couldnt move the piston but after a while it came as the piston had cooled but the block would still be hot.
Yes, let the piston cool off, then hammer.
Heat up the whole block so the cylinders expand. Then drop some liquid nitrogen onto the piston so it contracts. Expanded block and contracted piston = removal
Actually the best thing to do is go to walmart and get a bottle of toilet bowl cleaner and I mean the strong stuff that contains almost pure acid.You pour that into the cylinder and it eats the rust and corroded piston away down past the rings allowing the piston to be freed up..Ive done it many times and it works great and doesnt take long and since the block will be bored anyway there's no worry about causing damage to the good iron especially if you neautralize it after your done.
you need to warm the block around the piston ,thensspray cooling spray on the top if the piston.Never use a metal hammer on alu piston,a piece of a broomstick vill do and before all this you spray 5-56 on the top of the piston,and let that work overnight.
You can always tell by the change of note that something is letting go.
Next time get heat on the piston with a torch or how you did, you need heat! Then use paraffin wax (plain candle wax from the grocery store, usually its white and comes as a brick). After heating the piston/ area no hotter than 250°f(any hotter you anneale the metal), rotate the engine so the deck is facing down then rub the wax around the bottom of the piston. The heat will wick the wax past the piston ring. Let everything cool right down, the piston should tap out without causing any damage.This trick works on anything metal that's seized. ☆WARNING☆ when heating metal to a glow and waxing, the wax bursts into flames! Always, always let the metal cool to a blue color before waxing.
a good 400 block that hard to find?
Fukk nooooo !!!!!!!
@@dennishensley1150 thats what i thought. lol
TURN BLOCK UPSIDE DOWN AND SQUIRT LIQUID PROPANE IN IT!
WHEN IT EVAPORATES IT TURN THE PISTON VERY COLD AND IT SHRINKS ENOUGH TO START OUT WITH A LITTLE TAP!!
ALSO TRY DRY ICE PELLETS!
Well, you got it HALF right. There is supposed to be a fire on top of the piston. But the cylinder head must be attached first. LOL... All joking aside: during the "cash for clunkers" campaign in the USA, there were several unscrupulous dealers who tried to keep the customers' vehicles. So, the government seized all of their engines.
if the block is truly salvageable and worth it, gently break the gudgeon pin(wrist pin) with a sharp chisel and remove the conrod, then just have that piston crown bored out to the size it is now.
then have it worked over.
Why didn't you just let it keep burning so the piston could come out from the bottom....
Why not just soak it with a 50-50 blend of Marvel Mystery Oil and Liquid Wrench, then vibrate it with an air chisel while hammering on the rod? It would have come right out. I used to work in a transmission shop, and my boss swore by the air chisel. Especially for impossibly stuck bushings in blind holes. It worked quite well. No heating required.
Of course, since you were re-boring the block anyway, the red wrench would be even faster. A skilled fabricator can blow out a sheared off 1/4" (or larger) thread stub from a sheared off pipe nipple in a cast iron body, without damaging the parent threads. I was once working on a steam press at a dry cleaners. I was their general mechanic. A quarter inch steam pipe broke off flush with the receiver, leaving the remains of the nipple galled to the threads inside. I tried several bolt extract ion tools (EZout, etc), to no avail. Two slipped, and one broke off inside the broken pipe. Since I had nothing to lose at this point, I went and grabbed the red wrench. I was able to burn out the broken off tool and pipe fitting, without damaging the female threads in the body. You see, the galling provides insulation and protection from the heat. The body is a massive heat sink, so the parent threads simply cannot get hot enough for the oxygen to burn, provided you do it right. A skilled oxy-acetylene weldor can blast just about any broken off fastener or fitting from an engine block or boiler tank. You could've had that piston out of there in a few minutes with the red wrench.
Top to bottom top to bottom unless your gonna trash the piston then have at it.
Maybe try spraying liquid wrench around the inside.
After you get it hot, let it cool off to ambient, then start hammering.
I usually quit after 3 minutes. 6 hours. Wow, persistence.
"It worked"? Yeah right, Doctor, you killed the patient! Sick never again.
tap tap tap fucking hit man.
The block is probably unusable or is now unusable. You still get a like for showing me that this method is not viable.
Helps if you actually hit it with some force...