Really helpful video sir, thank you very much for taking the time to make it! I have an '01 Skeeter with a dual axle trailer that has the same actuator. The boat is new to me and the brakes have been disconnected for an unknown amount of time, so I'm expecting there may be issues with the actuator since it has been dry and neglected for a long time. We'll see.
Thanks for the video. I’m getting ready to totally rehab a 30 year old triple axle trailer and I used every tool to get mine apart so far. I’m making a video as well. I’m just trying to identify what model my actuator is because it’s so rusted and corroded.
Great video sir I have to do this on my 05 Triton TR 21 trailer and was wondering how it was done..Saved me $800 at least since that's what I was told it would cost to have a shop repair it..
Awesome video! I need to replace my actuator and am debating doing it myself vs. paying 400+ to have someone do it. I can get a replacement actually for less than $250. I just need to understand how to bleed the lines. Thanks for putting this video together!
It’s not a difficult project, the most time consuming and hardest part was getting the rusted seized steel pins out, especially the one in the back. In regards to bleeding the brakes, use a tube and bottle with some brake fluid inside covering the bottom of the tube, attach the other end to the little bleeder of the disk brakes. Then pump the plunger with a screwdriver. The hole to pump the plunger is located on the bottom towards the front of the actuator. It’s the same concept as bleeding car brakes the simple way. I show how it’s done in the video. Good luck.
Great video! Very much appreciated. I need to replace mine. I have same exact setup. But need to replace the whole tongue unit like you did. We’re can I find this unit at??
Thanks for posting. Looking to do the same. At the hitch, unit with the spring is the master cylinder. The part you broke off is the proportioning / distribution valve.
J R J R Good luck with your project. Not sure what some of the parts are called. The one with the wires going to it must be a valve of some type that does not allow brake fluid to the brakes when I put the SUV in reverse.
I have installed a hydraulic brake 660. when braking a trailer a TIE DOWN beating occurs. Could this be a defect in some part inside the mechanism? How can I diagnose?
I’m not an expert in this and can’t tell you how to diagnose, but I do know when my trailer was new, when I braked, it was smooth and 15 years later it clunked, so I knew the mechanism was worn out and had to be replaced. At least the shock inside did, but I ended up replacing the whole thing. When you try to back-up up a slight hill and you can’t, that means the brakes are working. If you can back up, then they are not working and maybe that’s why your are getting the TIE DOWN beating when you brake. Not sure what that is, but assumed it’s some kind of clunking or noise like that when you apply the brakes on your vehicle and the trailer doesn’t stop well. Another idea is to try to bleed your trailer brakes. I showed that towards the end of the video. Put screwdriver in slot and pump piston.
I thought it was just me with rust frozen pins on a 27 year old trailer. Mine are way worse and I am into a couple days of soaking with Kano Kroil penetrating lube, but no movement at all so far. I might try to duct tape or otherwise secure an old impact socket in place so I can use a full sized sledge hammer. I have not heated it yet, but that will likely happen. I have also wondered if I could rig a press with a vise to pressure them out, but impact might be better? What a crappy design!
I got the pins out, it took 3 days of soaking in penetrating lube and also some CRL acid with a few more hours of slamming the pins with sledge hammer to get the pins to move back and forth. I used a 11MM impact long socket held with a large set of channel locks. The pins were very rusted and deformed, but they do eventually come out if you keep at it. Once you get them to move, even a 1/16th of an inch, you now they are moving and just keep messing with them and they will come out.
Really helpful video. Quick question tho. The solenoid on my actuator came with a white and blue wire coming out of it. Do u know where the white goes? Is it a ground? Didnt have one on the old one. Thanks
It must be the ground. On my trailer, the blue wire coming out of the top of the solenoid goes to the red wire going to the front of the trailer and my white wire from the front of the trailer goes to the bottom of the solenoid and it’s attached with a screw to the bottom of the solenoid. Unlike yours, mine did not come with a white wire coming out of the solenoid only a hole and a screw, so I attached my white wire coming from the front to the screw at the bottom. Hope that helps.
Looking to do the same thing for my 2005 ranger. How did you know what model to buy? Where did you buy it? Have not found anything useful online. Probably searching for the wrong things
My Ranger boat came with a Owner’s manual for the A-60 hydraulic brake actuator. I would think it would be the same for a 2005 Ranger with the same kind of trailer surge brakes. I bought my new assembly online from Pacific Trailers. The original A-60 manual says the it has a 6,000 lbs maximum load rating. Look for one in that range.
You’re welcome, glad it helped you. The video is not great because I didn’t plan it out, just filmed as I went, but I knew it would help others because there weren’t many other videos out there on this topic at the time.
I could never get old lockout to work, don’t know why it didn’t work. I haven’t tried the new one. I just pulled the boat out from Winter storage, snow finally gone. I’ll try the new one when I have a chance and post back here.
@@lfa1010 I got this one: ruclips.net/video/x549K1AakRw/видео.html and it works perfect for me. I was wondering if the new one you have is as good or not. Please let me know.
Fady Hakim, I tried the new top lockout today for the first time and it worked well, no problem. Just turn it 1/2”+- counterclockwise. If you turn it more it doesn’t work.
Really helpful video sir, thank you very much for taking the time to make it! I have an '01 Skeeter with a dual axle trailer that has the same actuator. The boat is new to me and the brakes have been disconnected for an unknown amount of time, so I'm expecting there may be issues with the actuator since it has been dry and neglected for a long time. We'll see.
Thanks for the video. I’m getting ready to totally rehab a 30 year old triple axle trailer and I used every tool to get mine apart so far. I’m making a video as well. I’m just trying to identify what model my actuator is because it’s so rusted and corroded.
Great video sir I have to do this on my 05 Triton TR 21 trailer and was wondering how it was done..Saved me $800 at least since that's what I was told it would cost to have a shop repair it..
Awesome video! I need to replace my actuator and am debating doing it myself vs. paying 400+ to have someone do it. I can get a replacement actually for less than $250. I just need to understand how to bleed the lines. Thanks for putting this video together!
It’s not a difficult project, the most time consuming and hardest part was getting the rusted seized steel pins out, especially the one in the back.
In regards to bleeding the brakes, use a tube and bottle with some brake fluid inside covering the bottom of the tube, attach the other end to the little bleeder of the disk brakes. Then pump the plunger with a screwdriver. The hole to pump the plunger is located on the bottom towards the front of the actuator. It’s the same concept as bleeding car brakes the simple way. I show how it’s done in the video. Good luck.
Fantastic video and information. Thank you for posting this.
Thanks! Glad I could help others fix something. Like everyone else, I use RUclips videos to fix stuff too.
Really helpful video. Would you believe they want $360 for that actuator now?
Great video! Very much appreciated. I need to replace mine. I have same exact setup. But need to replace the whole tongue unit like you did. We’re can I find this unit at??
You can find the unit at pacifictrailers.com
Thanks for posting. Looking to do the same. At the hitch, unit with the spring is the master cylinder. The part you broke off is the proportioning / distribution valve.
J R
J R
Good luck with your project.
Not sure what some of the parts are called. The one with the wires going to it must be a valve of some type that does not allow brake fluid to the brakes when I put the SUV in reverse.
I broke the same piece off the reverse solenoid. Was able to remove it. Cost to replace just the fitting was $5
It’s always something with boating
I have installed a hydraulic brake 660. when braking a trailer a TIE DOWN beating occurs. Could this be a defect in some part inside the mechanism? How can I diagnose?
I’m not an expert in this and can’t tell you how to diagnose, but I do know when my trailer was new, when I braked, it was smooth and 15 years later it clunked, so I knew the mechanism was worn out and had to be replaced. At least the shock inside did, but I ended up replacing the whole thing.
When you try to back-up up a slight hill and you can’t, that means the brakes are working. If you can back up, then they are not working and maybe that’s why your are getting the TIE DOWN beating when you brake. Not sure what that is, but assumed it’s some kind of clunking or noise like that when you apply the brakes on your vehicle and the trailer doesn’t stop well.
Another idea is to try to bleed your trailer brakes. I showed that towards the end of the video. Put screwdriver in slot and pump piston.
I thought it was just me with rust frozen pins on a 27 year old trailer. Mine are way worse and I am into a couple days of soaking with Kano Kroil penetrating lube, but no movement at all so far. I might try to duct tape or otherwise secure an old impact socket in place so I can use a full sized sledge hammer. I have not heated it yet, but that will likely happen. I have also wondered if I could rig a press with a vise to pressure them out, but impact might be better? What a crappy design!
I got the pins out, it took 3 days of soaking in penetrating lube and also some CRL acid with a few more hours of slamming the pins with sledge hammer to get the pins to move back and forth. I used a 11MM impact long socket held with a large set of channel locks. The pins were very rusted and deformed, but they do eventually come out if you keep at it. Once you get them to move, even a 1/16th of an inch, you now they are moving and just keep messing with them and they will come out.
Really helpful video. Quick question tho. The solenoid on my actuator came with a white and blue wire coming out of it. Do u know where the white goes? Is it a ground? Didnt have one on the old one. Thanks
It must be the ground. On my trailer, the blue wire coming out of the top of the solenoid goes to the red wire going to the front of the trailer and my white wire from the front of the trailer goes to the bottom of the solenoid and it’s attached with a screw to the bottom of the solenoid. Unlike yours, mine did not come with a white wire coming out of the solenoid only a hole and a screw, so I attached my white wire coming from the front to the screw at the bottom. Hope that helps.
Looking to do the same thing for my 2005 ranger. How did you know what model to buy? Where did you buy it? Have not found anything useful online. Probably searching for the wrong things
My Ranger boat came with a Owner’s manual for the A-60 hydraulic brake actuator. I would think it would be the same for a 2005 Ranger with the same kind of trailer surge brakes. I bought my new assembly online from Pacific Trailers. The original A-60 manual says the it has a 6,000 lbs maximum load rating. Look for one in that range.
The pin is bonded up. Because of the bunker cord on the front
Love the moss growing on your trailer ...lol
Thanks for posting bud
You’re welcome, glad it helped you.
The video is not great because I didn’t plan it out, just filmed as I went, but I knew it would help others because there weren’t many other videos out there on this topic at the time.
Hey man, I notice you have the UFP Top Lockout Upgrade. How that works for you? I have the side lock and its kinda pain to install it.
I could never get old lockout to work, don’t know why it didn’t work. I haven’t tried the new one. I just pulled the boat out from Winter storage, snow finally gone. I’ll try the new one when I have a chance and post back here.
@@lfa1010 I got this one: ruclips.net/video/x549K1AakRw/видео.html and it works perfect for me. I was wondering if the new one you have is as good or not. Please let me know.
Fady Hakim, I tried the new top lockout today for the first time and it worked well, no problem. Just turn it 1/2”+- counterclockwise. If you turn it more it doesn’t work.
“PB Blaster”. Not “PT Blast”.
Bunjeecord
No logic in trying to rebuild an old made in China part. For 200 bucks replace and be done with it.