Ski Boat Trailer Brakes Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2019
- Part 1 shows repairing the most common brake actuator found on Ski Boat trailers.
From: www.skiboatpartsonline.com/in...
Parts used is this video can be found below:
skiboatpartsonline.com/UFP-Br...
skiboatpartsonline.com/UFP-Ma... 
Хобби
I am watching this because I did the big bone head mistake! I pulled the truck away from trailer without removing breakaway cable. New cable on the way. This video is very helpful. Thanks.
My only suggestion, when you insert actuator rod in to master cyl. boot. Do not use petroleum grease. Use silicone base grease/brake grease, Sil-glyde. Rubber brake parts swell from petroleum products.
Retired dealership auto tech, 30+ years experience. Replacing just the cable would be a great video! I can’t be the only bone head out there that did this!
thank you Ron for this video and channel i actually grew up in South Florida and i’ve owned over 17 or 18 boats so far as a young guy i often bought used boats and trailers and everyone i bought generally they didn’t work and i left them like that out of ignorance on my end as a adult i began buying boats i had to have Professionally hauled due to size etc and i also bought Camping trailers with Electric Brake systems and the Trailer Brakes became my freinds i am fairly handy and mechanically minded this video taught me a lot about the Surge brakes that as a kid i thought were too expensive and complicated to learn i will also note used Marine products inFlorida are usually Rust Buckets too from all the Salt Water Exposure that don’t exactly make things enticing to work on and a boat trailer is used for storage and in my case i lived only 2 miles from the closest boat ramp from my home the Camping trailers i bought i towed at highway speeds in the Appalachian Mountains and that was a big game changer i watched this video out of curiosity and a desire to see what is out there now and thanks to it i. know my next boat and trailer will have hydraulic working brakes of course i’m smarter now and perhaps even slightly more pateint and wealthier as well
This guy know his stuff, thanks for a great video!
Thanks for this and the second trailer brakes video. Absolutely excellent!
Great Video! I am getting ready to take this job on and I think you made it easy. Thanks
Great info and a great sense of humor! You did all fo that with a white shirt on too!
Thank you sir, mine is really ratty!!! Love these vidios that save us guys 100's!!!
Previous owner welded mine up. I'm about to do work on the trailer and debating just getting rid of the brakes.
Well done - Still a really relevant video, I got the exact education I needed on how these brake systems work!
great explanation on how to do this job, I'll give it a go...
Good video but the part number you have for the master cylinder is for the break away cable kit. That's what came up when I looked for it. It showed TRP-0100 for the master cylinder. Great tip to blow the brake lines out with air. Thanks for the video
what a fantastic video!
Excellent Video! Very well done Sir
Excellent video; very helpful. However, in the video you listed the wrong part number for the replacement master cylinder; it should be TRP-0100 (according to your website). I noticed this because the same part number was listed for both the master cylinder and the breakaway cable kit.
I'd like to know more about the plastic brake lines. My trailer has steel lines, and I'm pretty sure they're corroded, possibly to the point that fluid isn't flowing through them. Plastic sounds like a much better replacement than buying all new steel lines and having them bent to fit. Thanks.
Brake fluid is my secret penetrating oil. Never met nothing it would not free up yet. Good video.
Andrew Brake fluid isn’t actually that good. Liquid wrench or sea foam deep creep are proven to be the best in private tests.
Thank u Ron.great video.
3:23 DANG IT!
The system you won't discuss is kind of like what I'm looking for info on
Did you find some info it? I have same.
Thank you!!! This is fantastic!!
GREAT VIDEO -THANK YOU
Love your video Thank you so much
Great video..made me decide to do this myself..but ordered new master cylinder started install process then out of nowhere the small tab u push on to release the rod fell out..has some kind of small wire that held it in place but I can't figure out how to get it reinstalled..
Ron, nice video. I like how you take pains to adjust camera angle for the viewer. I would have liked to see you test the old/new master cylinder to verify proper operation.
I have an A-75 actuator, which is similar. I ordered the entire assembly that slides in. It wasn't that much more for all new parts. However, when I tried to slide it in, it would only go so far in without forcing it. Has that ever been a problem for you? If so, how to you remedy the problem? UFP doesn't seem to have any directions for installation and there is nothing I can find on the Internet.
Great video! Do you have the part number for the shock absorber?
You do not need to take the front pin out to change the cylinder - Mine would not budge and the i realized the brake cylinder will come out without removing the whole unit.
..
1. - Remove the rear pin 2. - Remove the bolt on top of the cylinder. You can see / reach it through the fill cap -- -- -- The cylinder slides right out and the new one back in
Thank you!!♡
Can I use my trailer with a broken master by just keeping the pin rod forward With the magnet ? Also, how do push the pin to forward position again?
Cześć. Czy taki zaczep A60 pasuje na kule haka o średnicy 50 mm?
Exelen tutorial, I am obout to do this. I think I can do it. Thx.
Hi Ron, you give loads of info, thanks a lot indeed. You do refer to DOT approved plastic hydraulic lines, where would I be able to get more info about these?
skiboatpartsonline.com/Trailer-Parts/Brake-Line-Kit-TRP-0090
Hi Ron from Alberta Canada, I just purchased a boat and the master cylinder was completely empty and rusted. I can push on the hitch and slide the actuator to apply the brake ( the brakes don’t work though) then I must pull the actuator back towards the truck by hand. Should I be able to do this if the black piston is in good shape. I know I need to replace the master cylinder for sure. I have looked at other videos but no one talks about how hard it should be to push it. Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds like you need a master cylinder, probably a brake line set, and probably wheel cylinders
Where can I buy new parts for an older trailer ? 2005 eagle tandem trailer hydraulic disc brakes on 1 axle
Great video. I will now confidently do my own work on my trailer. One question, how do you manage to wear a nice white shirt and not get any crud on it? Remarkable.
What is part number for td80
What's the part number for the shock absorption item thanks
After some persuading I got the back pin out, it was pitted and badly rusted, BUT the front pin is stuck. Only moves a little each way. I have a prop puller that I was using to try and force the pin out, BUT again it is really stuck. Any suggestions? Great video by the way! Made me want to do it myself. . Parts were only about $70 shipped.
I use a homemade brew penetrating fluid, mix 50/50 trans fluid & acetone, then saturate the pin soaking it sever times
@@rontanis1024 I figured out that disc brake cleaner was the agent that helped it free up. Job went well once I got it all out. Thx
Hi Ron Allan here again. I have a question about the bleeding process, is it ok to put pressure on the actuator till it goes as far back as possible before opening the bleeder screw. Both of my cylinders are leaking and need to be replaced and during the bleeding I put full force on the actuator until it could travel no further, then I opened the bleeders. Any help from the great white North would be appreciated.
Yes, I apply full pressure to the actuator, then crack the wheel cylinder bleeder & then close it, repeat until you get clear fluid. IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR FULL
So well done! Thanks.
Great, I have the only type he doesn't address in this video. Any links to that type?
thanks for the video Ron! now go get yourself some black no show socks and join us in the 21st century ;-)
Is there no need to bench bleed the master cylinder?
Mine looks like the blue A-60 actuator you show near start of video. The master cylinder is rusted out and the 2 pins are so frozen, then will not budge regardless of how big of a sledgehammer I tried, I have them soaking in some Kano Kroil penetrating fluid and maybe will mix of some 50/50 acetone and dextron tomorrow, but I am thinking it so rusted it might have to go to a mechanic welder in town for some major heat and force to get the actuator out. I had already decided against doing a rebuild due to the rust and had ordered a new A-60 actuator to just replace it and not have to deal with the extensive rust on 27 year old trailer. Maybe you have some suggestions to help me get the frozen pins to loosen up and avoid hauling it over to mechanic, rather be able to DIY if I can get it loose. Love your videos!
use a weatherhead socket to save brass
Ron, is there any reason the pins won't knock out of the A-60 actuator? I have hammered on them to the point of not damaging the end of the pins, and they still won't budge. I had lubricated them and took the retaing pins off several days ago. It seems like its not a rust problem. More like they are permanently attached somehow.
The snap rings on the ends are the only things holding the pins in, I have had very stubborn ones before, lots of penetrating oils and big hammer took them out.
Since the PB Blaster didn't work I'll try some of your magic penetrator LOL. Thanks for your answer!@@rontanis1024
HI RON, WHAT HAPPENS IF THE SHOCK ABSORBER'S BAD? EVERYTIME I ACCELERATE FROM A STOP I HEAR A LOUD CLUNK. IT ALSO HAPPENS WHEN I STOP. IS THIS BECAUSE OF A BAD SHOCK ABSORBER?
Check and see if you have fluid in your trailer’s master cylinder. The tongue might be compressed and decomposing too freely due to a lack of pressure in the master cylinder and brake lines. Mine ran dry last year and did the same thing
I just replaced my shock absorber that was definitely bad. It seems like the master cylinder was good and squirting juice…however the whole hitch assembly still slams back and forth upon braking and acceleration. Does that mean the master is bad or that they just aren’t bled properly or is there a whole different problem?
A small amount of fore/aft play is normal 1/8" -1/4" but not 3/4" to 1" If the brakes are bled correctly and the fluid is up you should be able to compress the actuator about 1/4" before it gets hard and begins to stop the wheels, the harder you compress the harder the brakes will expand/stop the wheel. Leaking lines will also cause this as the fluid is pushed out.
Thank you! There seems to be more play in it than that and the thud it makes is pretty bad. I am getting fluid out of the bleeders, but I can move the plunger fairly easily, more than 1/8”. At this point I am assuming the master cylinder is weak/bad and I’m need of replacement?
@@chadqueckboerner6423 The mastercylinder should not be easy to compress, time for a replacement
Thankyou sir... excellent..
Your welcome
You need to lubricate the casters on your stool. 😂
I would have put grease on glide also
Did someone replace the spring and rod?
No, but we did clean them up
good information im korean
You failed to address the reinstallation of the plastic rollers like you said you were going to.
I have the actuator you didnt want to talk about 😭
@14:00min - that’s what she said
That shock is bad.
Great video, but please get a new work chair. That thing is really distracting while listening to you lol
Better to fix your chair first 😜
Great video..made me d
Grease your chair
Perfect.