I really like what your videos have become, they are unlike any sailing channel I watch and that's probably why I keep watching. You are some very special and creative people, I hope you keep entertaining us for years to come.
Everyone else is sailing around the Caribbean like "look how great my life is". BOAB is like "we removed a bolt this week!!!" I love it. This is my life too! I think you guys must be long lost relatives. Love the videos!
@@Bumsonaboat I could see the frustration at the end when Michal kept looking at you like "is he gonna lose it?" Don't give up. BTW, you guys are getting really good at the video editing. Keep up the good work. You're my fav youtube channel.
Yea Michal just admitted that she was worried about me at that moment. We may not have removed a bolt but we did succeed in totally annihilating one. Thanks for the encouragement!
I almost feel guilty for how much I'm enjoying watching your trials and tribulations. Frustrating stuff, but what an education you two are getting! I admire your persistence and can-do attitude. Good on ya! Keep it up! You're getting there.
I feel guilty for laughing when others share their stories of hard times working on the boat. Don't know why but I laugh out loud just imagining their struggle. No need to feel guilty, truth be told we are enjoying living them.
By the way, I was a Bering sea fisherman for 25 years with most of those being engineer...this is Mike, Stephanie is my wife.....you have no idea how I love watching your struggles while at a boat yard in the Caribbean while I am relaxing in Texas and sipping a beer...good luck!!
As below, fully drill out set screw. Plenty of cutting oil while drilling. Sharp sharp drills. never use a dull one. further, penetrating oil on coupling. Then get steel socket which is slightly smaller than the shaft and put between the flanges concentric to the shafts. Get 4 high strength fine threaded bolts sufficiently long and 4 high strength nuts to match along with washers under the nuts. Assemble as your friend suggested with the coins. Get setup then heat the collar (not the shaft) till ~200C (smoking hot). Pull the flanges together against the socket a little on each bolt, evenly. It will come off, no problemo!
Bums, this is how its done. Just takes some practice to feel it out! If you cant manage then cut the flange with a grinder and get a new one. They are easy to find.
You guys have crossed the "this refit should have been done stateside" threshold. A lot of the work you're doing is deep and difficult and you're far away from abundant resources. But, what's done is done and now you're fully committed. You're doing great and I hope you can get it all back together.
You’ve turned a corner with your video production. The BOAB style is really coming out lately. I know it’s not been fun content to film, but the resulting videos have been some of your best yet, IMO. :) -B
Anyone want to wager at this point that this boat will never see water again. Almost every problem has been because of something done wrong. I really enjoy the show keep doing what ur doing. I just knew you were gonna spray that bug spray while you had the torch going. Oh man the footage would have been epic. First 30 seconds absolutely comedic genius. Obviously a fan.
coreynfunkytown I put the odds at 50/50 3 weeks ago. I would say much less now it ever sees the water. They abandon it and go home and live in a barn and get landscaping jobs. (If they make it through the border)
Hi guys, great video. One suggestion is to take a grinder or dremal and grind two groves down the length of the coupler on opposite sides. do not grind all the way through to the shaft. Then take a cold chisel and split the coupler. A socket is also a good suggestion but there may be too much force placed on the output shaft of the transmission which may cause other problems. You two are hard workers. Cheers.
Always entertaining guys. When using heat, it makes the metal expand. So don't heat the screw heat the piece it is in directly. A little late now. But you guys will get it! That's why we love you guys! Never give up and always have a great outlook on things
Glad to see you got some bearing/gear pullers, only way to remove the grub screw is to drill it out, use a cobalt HSS C drill bit as the shaft will be a hardened steel, probably stainless steel, but it could be a tool grade steel, stainless to stainless is a F@#$UP, crossed threads and seizing are guaranteed, another thing you will find really handy over time is a sliding hammer, this is basically a sliding weight on a shaft with a threaded end and two flanges on either side of the weight, also highly recommend tapping the ends of your shafts depending on the diameter, good luck
Sure sucks how a little screw can set you back so much. I used to rebuild cars and came across this sort of thing all the time. Drill the screw out first, then heat the flange and strike it with a mini sledge until it breaks free from the shaft. Once the flange is off you can drill and tap for a new screw with a larger diameter.
Wow! Glad to see y'all keep your sense of humor. Y'all had my body aching just watching. I'd have to bleep out most of the video if that was me working cramped up like that. Y'all will get it, somehow. Sorry I don't have any idea except beat the bleep out of it with a big bleeping hammer. Fair seas guys and lots of luck. 👍⛵🐶♥️🍻
Hey BOAB, If all else is failing your best bet is simply cut the flange with a cutoff disc, maybe even in 2 places if it still refuses to come off. If you can cut out maybe a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap you should be able to get a chisel in it. If it still refuses to come just keeping more chunks out and sooner or later it will fall off!!! Good luck, I've had the same problem with a flange and just kept cutting chunks out of it and it fell off!!! Peace Luv & Rock N Roll
Drill the entire bolt out. Threads and all. Once the flange is removed from the shafts take the flange end to a metal shop to get filled, drilled, and tapped.
The best penetrating oil: 50% acetone/50% ATF. Shake it very well before each use because they don't mix. Let it soak and reaply. This combination makes a quimical reaction with rust that breaks it, and lose the bolt.
I've never really worked on sailboats personally for what its worth, but if the set screw actually screws into a hole in the shaft the issue might be that the bit you drilled out with is too small and there is still an outer ring of the set screw remaining in the hole, passing between the two pieces. You might want to try drilling the hole down to the shaft to a bigger diameter, one that is correct for the next next standard screw/tap you would be able to get so you can replace it with a bigger screw later. Even just the thread of the original screw can be a deceptively large amount of material and being a set screw like that it's intentional that it has a significant mechanical advantage against removing the shaft
I got to give you guys a lot of credit you are taking on some really horrible tough jobs that in a boat yard the workers resist doing you guys are bad to the bone well done
I agree. Drill it out big as needed. Also (after your success of removing the shaft) you can start another spot to drill and add a new set screw or two. Keep up the good attitude and determination. Thanks for sharing your ups and downs.
Bums on a Boat drill out completely, bigger, and tap new threads and lots of heat ! Cherry red! The coupling is going to be rusted solid on that shaft! Behind all that you have a (stupid) dripless seal unfortunately, when you pull the shaft thru it the shaft must be perfect or it will damage the seal and need very expensive parts to fix. I assume you are doing all this because you know your cutters bearing is bad? I ask because it water fed from the tube going to the dripless seal and should not really be worn...... Horrible conditions you are working in. Cheers Warren
You will need to drill the set screw out as it’s too late to do anything else. Make sure your drill bit is the same size as the set screw and dribble undiluted washing detergent on the drill bit as you are drilling....it keeps the drill bit cool and helps it cut....good luck
I totally feel for them! One muther fucing screw! I've been there. It's the dumbest thing. A whole project held up over something so small. And boy are they trying!! I really don't like how the boat designers put stuff like this in these tight hard to reach spots!!
I used to work a diesel turbocharger bench for big Cats ... lots of frozen bolts, baked by hi-temps. Ideal scenario: Cut the bolt / set screw flush; center punch it and drill it. Center punch as accurately in the center of the flush set screw as you can, start with pilot hole and increase drill bit size 'til you get to the threads. If done right, you preserve the threads and can pick the remains of the set screw out of the preserved threads. Less than ideal scenario: If centering the punch was not correct and the threads are damaged, I would drill a larger hole, tap it for new threads and use a thread insert. We used Helicoils (example link below). Hole, threads, helicoil, set screw must all match-up. The main issue, of course is to get the shaft out. Once done, you can make decisions about repairing / reconstructing the hole using above techniques or otherwise. So having and knowing the above techniques, consider just drilling the whole damn thing out. www.amazon.com/Helicoil-Insert-Stainless-Unified-Coarse/dp/B00FAV78P4/ref=lp_6909192011_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1555123524&sr=1-6 www.amazon.com/Threaded-Inserts/b?node=16410701 There are bolt/screw extractors. But be _really_ carefull with those. I think they are hardened and if you break one in the hole, you are f*kd. Good luck. Would luv to be there to help.
So we didn't use the center punch accurately enough so it looks like we are looking at the less than ideal scenario. Thanks for the info on a thread insert. This is most likely our next move.
Another thing to try is left fluted drill bits. Works sometimes. Depends on what sort of stuck it is.www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Cobalt-Broken-Damaged-Extractor/dp/B01MYRR603/ref=asc_df_B01MYRR603/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241941495556&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13530748795715362113&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011312&hvtargid=pla-668903921205&psc=1
Good job on that wheel. Tip tighten then tap pretty good on the centre bolt to shock it. Lots of oil on shaft. If that is a good puller you can use much more wrench than you had in the video. Clean up well and it can be easy to take off when it interferes with drinks service.
True dat... the bennies of taking the wheel off is to make it easier next time anchored out and need more room in the cockpit, also dissuade the theives that are following all the work you are putting in just to go off and leave her again for next Hurricane season....
I'm an aircraft mechanic and boat owner for 30-years. If you HAVE to remove it: drill out the bolt, threads and all. Squirt penetrant into hole and tap-tap with a hammer around flange. Do this tap-tap over a few hours. Wipe up oil. Put a spacer in there like the restaurant guy said - a socket should work well and moderately tighten the flange bolts. Heat the coupling near the bolt hole 360 all the way around with the torch - you don't have to get it red hot - just enough to expand the coupling WITHOUT transferring heat to the shaft - so do it quickly. Transmission in reverse should help lock the shaft and then crank down on the flange bolts. Again, work quickly. If this does not work, then you're going to have to either cut the shaft or split the coupling (fore-aft) with an angle grander. In both of those cases, unfortunately, new shaft or coupling. Good luck and careful of bug-spray around a flame.
I’m sorry but you guys are hilarious! I look forward to every video. But don’t give up. I have no doubt you guys will someday be out there sailing. Best wishes.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure !" When assembling items that are pressed on to a shaft (like the wheel or the prop) or assembling stainless steel bolts/nuts ALWAYS use anti-seize. Also, things like props, coupling, wheels should be removed, inspected, lubed every few year. My guess is that those have NEVER been removed. Drill bits are an interesting topic. Of course they have to be sharp. Cobalt bits ARE very hard, but that also make them very brittle and they will break easier when you apply pressure.
We have learned this lesson the hard way and this is what we are attempting to implement with all of this tearing apart nonsense. If we can get back to square one we will have an easier time inspecting things every few years. Thanks for sending the anti-seize...it also appears to be a lock tight!? Crazy, didn't know such a product existed.
Another point on using anti -seize It is one of the best for preventing corrosion in salt water. A bolt that had anti-seize on it was as good as new after ten years but where it did not it was half eaten away.
I'm a fan of using heat, but you are a little past that point now. Remember when you are using the torch, don't heat the bolt but the area around it, heat creates expansion and you don't want to make the bolt any bigger. I think the drill crowd is on the right track, good luck!
A few things. 1. An EZout. Bolt extractor. 2. When applying heat, you want to heat the coupling, not the bolt. You want the hole to expand, not the thing stuck in the hole.
With regards to the set screw, you need to drill the full diameter of the set screw. If you do not, the remaining portion with continue to hold things in place. You can drill it over sized and then tap it later for a larger set screw. After you have it totally drilled out, fill it up with penetrating oil a few times a day for a couple of day. Then apply pressure as you are doing.
If all else fails.. use a die grinder on the Coupler cutting through to the shaft Lengthwise then insert A chisel In the cut And hammer It until it splits .. or just enough to spread it open to pull the shaft if you do the latter you might be able to salvage the coupler by welding the cut back up instead of buying a new one .. Good luck.
Your doing great and you have a ton of courage. Note: Reverse Thread... Right tight Left Louse NORMAL This is reverse thread Left Tight Left Tight.... use a pipe wrench due to the head being removed. your going backwards/reverse the screw. Good luck and keep it up.
I'm assuming this video is way behind where you are as you read this but if not... What you need is an easy out. It's basically a thing that looks like a cross between a drill bit and a screw. BUT it's backwards. It actually pulls itself into the hold you drilled but it does it as you turn it left instead of right. It's a lefty tighty and righty loosy. The complete opposite of what you usually do. But when you turn it to the left it pulls itself into the hole while it's forcing the stuck bolt to turn lefty loosy. Suggestion 2 soak all the stuck area with white vinegar. Vinegar reverses rust from iron ozide to iron freeing up the corrosion in the process. IF you've never done this... put some vinegar in a glass bowl and put a rusted nut, bolt or any iron object that is rusted into the bowl and wait about 15-20 minutes and pull out the metal piece. You'll be amazed.
Whenever we had an issue with removing screws while I was in the US Navy, we would break out a kit of easy outs. Plus if you damage the internal threads try using a helicoil instead of re-tapping the hole.
The owner was in the right direction, you need to stack stuff inside tell it creates a wedge, it appears they sink inwards, thus will require more thickness to create the wedge for when you tighten the bolts.. When you tighten the bolts they should not allow the flange to touch or it will never wedge it off..
4" cutting wheel. Cut the coupling along the keyway so as not to damage the shaft too badly and replace the coupling. Or cut the shaft and replace both. Don't forget to replace the cutlass bearing when you get the shaft out
That's about as much frustration as a human can stand! If there is no key between the shaft and coupling, then the shaft torque may have distorted the end of the screw where it meets the shaft, which would jam it in place. So as the others have said, keep drilling bigger till it gives up. Greg
I would recommend using the Dremel to make two flat surfaces on the outside of that set screw, but you already drilled it out. At this point you may have to keep drilling bigger hole until you are positive there are no threads left and then tap it out again for a bigger bolt. Or just get a torch cutter in there and rip the whole damned thing out, lol.
worse case scenario if you cannot remove the jam screw there is a keyway still under it by drilling and tapping or extractor removal is to see if there is another propeller shaft to gearbox coupling available. If there is get some thin metal cutting blades for your angle grinder and split it in parallel with the jambolt and smaller diameter of the hub on the shaft and sacrifice it to the coupling gods. It looks pretty much standard 2-piece motor coupling, a machine shop could bore the right sized holes and broach new keyways. Sometimes you have to take the replace it route. There might even be some in their boneyard you could make use.
Once you have tension on the puller and you can't turn the wrench any more take a 2 lb hammer and smack the end of the puller shaft HARD. The wheel will pop right off. 25 yrs as an equipment machinic taught me that :o) Soon as the set screw would not turn, THAT is when you should have used heat. You don't want to heat the screw but the collar around the set screw. When it gets hot the coller will expand away from the screw. You have to get it HOT! like 450-500 deg hot and the set screw would have come right out. If it sticks, freezes or otherwise wont budge...STOP dont force it cause you will get the same result every time a FKD UP part. Love your vids by the way...
As others have said drill out the set screw hole wider and make sure you get all the way down to the actual shaft and go into it a bit. The man at the bar had the best idea put a socket or something that will put pressure on the actual shaft when you tighten the 2 flanges together. You may have to get some longer threaded bolts for this process. Once you have some pressure on the actual shaft using the process just mentioned turn the shaft where the set screw hole is in the up position and put your penetrating oil into the hole and keep it there and keep it full for a few days then try and tighten the 2 flanges further together each day or so it will start to come off at a point but time is your friend when using penetrating oil. Also I have heard you mention you have acetone. If you combine 50 percent acetone and 50 percent automatic transmission oil it makes the best penetrating oil in the business. I have done shafts before not a newby. Also I heard you guys say you had damaged the threads on the shaft. I have taken a file that is triangle in shape and repaired threads on a shaft taking my time etc and using the nut (serviceable nut) to make sure it will thread onto the shaft where I repaired it. You can also drill a small hole through the shaft (for small cotter pin) which would be behind the nut to keep the nut from being able to back off the shaft when at sea and save you from losing your prop. If their is a nearby machine shop they can also put in a lathe and repair your threads and make sure the shaft isn't out of true. You can also spin it on a level surface like a glass table to see if its true won't be as good as a machine shop but better than nothing especially since it doesn't spin as fast as a power boat. I am also guessing you will be replacing the cutlass bearing you can take a sharp hack saw blade and put it through the cutlass bearing and cut it in half on the bottom side then in half on the top side and it will be easy to get it out then. When I make my packing for the prop shaft or steering shaft I wrap the packing around the shaft 4 times and hold it tight with one hand at both ends then take a razor knife and cut all 4 wraps it in half using the razor knife that gives you 3 perfect circles for your packing. I also use marine grease and pack the packing with marine grease before re-assemble. You also have to adjust your packing by how many drips per second come into the boat on steering it doesn't need to drip as often if at all because a steering shaft is not spinning like a prop shaft is. A prop shaft needs to drip to keep the packing from overheating when the shaft is spinning. I hope that helps!!
I allways leave retapping for last...first thing i do is to hit the screw..or nut with a hammer...this will shake the thread some...and then apply heat with any sort of a torch...it works for me...cheers!
I've always heard PB Blaster is basically acetone and automatic transmission fluid mixed 50/50, it works. Another initial trick is to heat the bolt and apply paraffin wax to the threads. The wax sucks down and lubricates the threads. I once snapped off an intake to head bolt, then I snapped off an ease out! I dulled several bits trying to get that ease out, out and finally called a drill bit speciality shop and told them I needed a drill bit from hell. So fifty bucks later hell bit came in the mail and drilled through that ease out like it was butter.
you first have to drill through the bolt so that it no longer sticks to the shaft perhaps making an M6 a M8 ? put a nut in between it, put it under tension, and hit it with a heavy hammer at 4 points put the bolts back on tension and hit them again. so you make the shaft vibrate and it comes loose.
drill larger hole to get all of set screw drilled out, then when out, retap larger size thread, then to get off, heat flange and not shaft and try socket idea
This was the toughest bums vid to watch. Currently I have a brace on my left arm from 2017 winter when I needed to replace our stuffing box. 1972 boat. Did all of the things you have done and more... that screw will never turn, that shaft coupler will likely never come off in one piece. A new coupler is not that expensive. I used an angle grinder to cut the flange off the coupler, then cut the rest of the coupler into two pieces. It was such an odd angle and to get at, I ended up pulling a couple tendons in my left elbow. Looks like you've got it easy with even lying down next to it and room enough to work! I'd suggest sourcing a new coupler for the shaft and taking a grinder to it, but don't get hurt. :)
Oh man sorry to bring back tough memories. It is refreshing to hear that this can be a tough job. We were pretty discouraged at how much time and effort went into accomplishing pretty much nothing. I think we will try drilling out a bigger hole first before we move to the next option which will be the angle grinder.
@@Bumsonaboat yeah drilling that out over sized is not a bad thing. You can always drill and tap a new set screw hole. Use a LOT more heat, but that gets in to other things possibly getting damaged. Angle grinder is fastest if you have a replacement coupler. Even then it might be tough to separate from shaft due to corrosion. I really don't believe that thing will EVER slide off though. If it was it off the boat with big torch and gear puller, MAYBE. Keep kicking ass!
Next time, before doing anything . . heat the metal around the bolt as hot as you can. Then spray with oil ,let it cool(when it cools it will suck the oil in ) repeat 3 or 4 times . . . then try to remove the bolt . . use the expansion and contraction to your advantage to suck the oil in as much as possible . . it works
1) drill out set screw till every trace is removed. 2) Flange is siezed onto shaft. It may be mostly at the aft end of the flange. Put a grinding bit on that dremel and remove just a few thou right at the metal to metal junction so there is no lip or rust. 3) Do boat guys have an oxy acetylene torch. If so, heat that flange to near red while rotating it for even heat . 4) tape a huge washer to the cold sided of the flange 5) put the nut back on the end of the prop shaft to protect the threads 6) BFH to drive the shaft further into the flange. If you move it at all, more oil then try the socket and bolts again to draw it back. 7) Rinse and repeat. Last time I did something similar I did about 6 cycles before she came loose. Patience. Tiny increments. 10 thou is a win.
Hi Guys. Drill out 0.5-1.0mm bigger than the bolt diameter. Drill carefully until all the bolt is out - you will put a ding in the shaft 1-1.5mm deep to allow for the drill tip/web but that won’t matter. Once off, clean up hole, retap to new size. Use a bolt you can wire lock secure as with the ding in the shaft, you won’t need it so tight to hold it for the next time you want it off.
If you have not drilled over size the tip of the set screw is probably still in the shear line, between the coupler and the shaft. At this point you may consider an oversized hole to clear the shear line. Also you maybe able to jam the shaft by placing a pipe wrench on the coupler while jacking the screw on the gear puller. Good luck.
Also stainless to stainless gauls very easily. Sometimes you must destroy the least expensive part to save the other. If all else fails you cut coupler off with a cutoff disc on grinder split length wise with shaft to allow coupler to expand and use a ss antisieze when putting back together, ie blue goop
If you can find a left handed drill bit. They come with an EasyOut kit, but you might find one separately. You then drill in reverse, eventually the bit will catch, and the screw will come out.
Something like this... www.amazon.com/Comoware-Drill-Piece-Titanium-Coating/dp/B07LCCBYSL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=15L0Y79O80WBD&keywords=left+handed+drill+bit+set&qid=1555218896&s=gateway&sprefix=lefthanded+dr%2Caps%2C267&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
First off you guys are SUPER TALENTED at putting together videos. Absolutely remarkable.I believe that set screw was stainless,it GAULED [technical term]Antiseize was SUPPOSED to be put on before tightening.Same with the steering wheel a little antiseize or grease works wonders.Your wife has good mechanical instincts that was a good idea slotting that set screw if it were not stainless that would have worked.Unfortunated you are going to have to drill out that hard stainless set screw out of that hard cast steel [or iron]coupler half.The real trade name of PB blaster is weasel piss.[just in case some one ask you if you put weasel piss on it.]Both of you have good mechanical skills in my humble opinion.I,m retired from mechanical trades.Your videos are absolutely fantastic and better that what hollywood can put out!!!The music great!!Sail boaters are a talented bunch!!Put a little grease on the treads of that puller if you have to use it again.Good Luck!!!You guys are fun!!Your going to have to drill and tap a new hole.If that is a 5/16 set screw the drill size is 1/4.If its 3/8 drill 5/16.Use lots of oil of the tap.Its probably NC[national course]
You will have to drill out the old screw and once you have it off re-tap the hole one size bigger. Thats all you can do now...or get a new/used coller to replace it with. Good luck guys.
just drill it and next time u have a stuck bolt, use penetrating fluid direct and heat if that fails, and dont heat the bolt very important else u will end up strip it, heat the material that the bolt is stuck to. now theres nothing left but to drill it out. but be careful not to destroy the threads, you can take a other bolt and drill a hole into it and then screw that bolt just a millimeter in and drill out the rest of the snap off bolt and after use a threader to clean the threads out, if the threads is destroyed you must drill out the hole to a larger diameter and then thread new threads. greets from sweden
Drill the bolt out completely and tap for a larger set bolt. But if the shaft is shot from taking the prop off the get the dimensions and post them public. I personally come across tons of good useable shafts everyday that could be sent to you if the correct size.
Use acetone mixed with automatic transmission fluid. In my previous life on ships at sea we used wintergreen to free up bolts. Just some old-timer solutions
You can clean up the damaged threads on the shaft with jewelers files and lubricant. Once you can get the nut started, if you need to you put some very fine grit lapping compound on the threads and work the nut on (back and forth, a little at a time). I would recommend using a different nut with the correct thread size for that. Yes I've had to do that. No, it wasn't pretty. Memories.
Here in Colombia you weld another screw or a piece of iron on top of the broken one to unscrew it. Welding inverters are cheap nowadays. Now that you have drilled a hole, maybe you can 1. Fill in the hole with welding electrode to drill a correct size and redo the thread or 2. just redo a thread with a bigger thread size. In the hardware store there are a kind of threaded bits to do so.
I feel for you man! Measure the coupling thickness to determine how deep you need to drill. You want to avoid drilling into the key as this may just add friction to the coupling removal. If a machine shop is available Id borrow an "end mill bit" as it is flat on bottom. Do the yard boys have a set of torches? I am afraid even with the set screw out of the way you will need way more heat than the one you have. With your socket inside the coupling tighten up the bolts and start to apply heat. Shock the coupling with a large hammer. Recheck the bolt tightness if they loosen the shaft is moving. Good luck and thanks for the videos!
drill it out to a bigger size you can aways find a bigger set screw, much more heat with the spacer between the two couplers and as you heat and heat tighten the bolts
You already have the best suggestions listed over drill and retap, heat entire flange and use puller( watch out for fire ) or cut flange (make sure you can get replacement first ) Good luck Last resort and most $ cut and replace shaft.
I stepped on a bee as kid my parents took me to the seaside, after walking in the sea water for five minutes the pain was completely gone, try it if it still hurts
drill the set screw right out first. then use the spacer and put as much fetch on the bolts as you can and heat it with the torch if it doesn't come off spray with penetrant again and leave it. come back later and repeat. also when you're using a puller to remove anything off a tapered shaft first grease the threads on the puller put it on, tighten it then hit the end of the bolt on the puller with a hammer it increases the pressure and the shockload will usually break it free. if it doesn't and you can't tighten it more just leave it on there and come back later and try again then try heat if necessary.
You Need a small propane torch and get the yellow bottle it burns hotter... You will be amazed at what a little heat can do to help get stuck bolts and other things out!!!
Hello Just drill the hole out the size of the bolt and it should come out and of course you will have to re tap the coupler that should work , hope this helps
definitely let it soak in the lubricant. From there try the socket again, except tap it with a hammer every so obtain when tightening the bolts. This will help to vibrate it loose.
drill perhaps use a reverse thread drill bit to pull extra metal out from the old screw. - I reamed a broken bolt out and was luckily able to rethread a new bolt after carefully cleaning out old bolt. Measure closely with the drill for depth as there maybe a small bevel on the shaft. Try the gear puller on the flange as well the old screw. You maybe be able to secure the shaft from spinning to with a rag and pipe wrench... I hope you get it free and clean...
Drill the set screw out with a drill bit slightly larger in diameter. Then, use oil, heat, pressure, and vibration. Oil and heat are obvious. Pressure from the socket in the center with the bolts, and vibration from a hammer. Tighten it, tap on it for a minute, tighten a bit more, let it sit for a minute, tap it, tighten. Be patient. If it takes a day or two to finally break loose, it will be much better than hastily removing it and hurting something in the process.
I farmed over 600 hives in one honey season. When stung use a credit card or your finger nail to scrape out stinger. Do not pull out the stinger. You'll just inject more venom. Secondly Honey is a natural astringent, apply honey to sting area it will pull out the venom. Works way better than baking soda. 😉 For future reference.
Be sure the "coins" method is pushing against the opposite coupler not the gear box shaft (so you don't pull that one off instead). Then tighten it as much as you can and put heat into the coupler you're removing (on the area where the the shaft is). If you have a drift or a long bolt you can use to give it a whack with your hammer the shock might break it loosen it too. (Of course try not to ding or bend it by hitting it directly). If that fails will the coupler fit through the bottom of the boat if the fittings the shaft goes through the bottom is removed? I feel for you guys! That's a tough one but you're giving it your best! Best of luck - we're pulling for you!
Use heat as stated, and candle wax it will pull it in and soak up all that white corrosion goodness and help tremendously. Turn the bolt some them tighten it back up, then repeat. Maybe a hundred times. While applying heat. Hammer helps too. I grew up in the Florida keys and have a lot of frozen bolts to my name. A lot of broken bolts too lol.
Duuuuuuuude, penetrating oil first! Several times over a day or hours or so. Them maybe even some heat with a torch if it looks bad prior to the first try. Also heat around the screw, not the screw itself to expand the metal. Great vid. Cheers
It is a little late for this tip, but you will have it for the next stubborn bolt/screw. The secret if it does not break free loosening it, it to tighten it a little bit. Then loosen the bolt/screw. There are times that you may have to tighten and loosen repeatedly. And each time it will loosen more and more.
Easy out / bolt extractor is a NO NO in my opinion. It's quite easy to break one inside the bolt and then you are facing only more work. I would just keep drilling and when done, make new threads.
If the set screw is ss and the coupler is iron, you have a fused together galvanic action! Drill it out larger and retap the threads! Don't use an ss set screw! or if you do use some anti-seize paste. Probably already have it done? good luck!
I really like what your videos have become, they are unlike any sailing channel I watch and that's probably why I keep watching. You are some very special and creative people, I hope you keep entertaining us for years to come.
Everyone else is sailing around the Caribbean like "look how great my life is". BOAB is like "we removed a bolt this week!!!" I love it. This is my life too! I think you guys must be long lost relatives. Love the videos!
Lol and we didn't even get the bolt removed.
@@Bumsonaboat I could see the frustration at the end when Michal kept looking at you like "is he gonna lose it?" Don't give up. BTW, you guys are getting really good at the video editing. Keep up the good work. You're my fav youtube channel.
Yea Michal just admitted that she was worried about me at that moment. We may not have removed a bolt but we did succeed in totally annihilating one. Thanks for the encouragement!
I almost feel guilty for how much I'm enjoying watching your trials and tribulations. Frustrating stuff, but what an education you two are getting! I admire your persistence and can-do attitude. Good on ya! Keep it up! You're getting there.
I feel guilty for laughing when others share their stories of hard times working on the boat. Don't know why but I laugh out loud just imagining their struggle. No need to feel guilty, truth be told we are enjoying living them.
So true
By the way, I was a Bering sea fisherman for 25 years with most of those being engineer...this is Mike, Stephanie is my wife.....you have no idea how I love watching your struggles while at a boat yard in the Caribbean while I am relaxing in Texas and sipping a beer...good luck!!
As below, fully drill out set screw. Plenty of cutting oil while drilling. Sharp sharp drills. never use a dull one.
further, penetrating oil on coupling. Then get steel socket which is slightly smaller than the shaft and put between the flanges concentric to the shafts. Get 4 high strength fine threaded bolts sufficiently long and 4 high strength nuts to match along with washers under the nuts. Assemble as your friend suggested with the coins. Get setup then heat the collar (not the shaft) till ~200C (smoking hot). Pull the flanges together against the socket a little on each bolt, evenly. It will come off, no problemo!
would putting the transmission into forward or reverse stop the shaft from spinning? and or a socket and wratchet on the front crankshaft pulley?
Bums, this is how its done. Just takes some practice to feel it out! If you cant manage then cut the flange with a grinder and get a new one. They are easy to find.
You guys have crossed the "this refit should have been done stateside" threshold. A lot of the work you're doing is deep and difficult and you're far away from abundant resources. But, what's done is done and now you're fully committed. You're doing great and I hope you can get it all back together.
You’ve turned a corner with your video production. The BOAB style is really coming out lately. I know it’s not been fun content to film, but the resulting videos have been some of your best yet, IMO. :) -B
Anyone want to wager at this point that this boat will never see water again. Almost every problem has been because of something done wrong. I really enjoy the show keep doing what ur doing. I just knew you were gonna spray that bug spray while you had the torch going. Oh man the footage would have been epic. First 30 seconds absolutely comedic genius. Obviously a fan.
coreynfunkytown I put the odds at 50/50 3 weeks ago. I would say much less now it ever sees the water. They abandon it and go home and live in a barn and get landscaping jobs. (If they make it through the border)
Hi guys, great video. One suggestion is to take a grinder or dremal and grind two groves down the length of the coupler on opposite sides. do not grind all the way through to the shaft. Then take a cold chisel and split the coupler. A socket is also a good suggestion but there may be too much force placed on the output shaft of the transmission which may cause other problems. You two are hard workers. Cheers.
Always entertaining guys. When using heat, it makes the metal expand. So don't heat the screw heat the piece it is in directly. A little late now. But you guys will get it! That's why we love you guys! Never give up and always have a great outlook on things
Glad to see you got some bearing/gear pullers, only way to remove the grub screw is to drill it out, use a cobalt HSS C drill bit as the shaft will be a hardened steel, probably stainless steel, but it could be a tool grade steel, stainless to stainless is a F@#$UP, crossed threads and seizing are guaranteed, another thing you will find really handy over time is a sliding hammer, this is basically a sliding weight on a shaft with a threaded end and two flanges on either side of the weight, also highly recommend tapping the ends of your shafts depending on the diameter, good luck
Sure sucks how a little screw can set you back so much. I used to rebuild cars and came across this sort of thing all the time. Drill the screw out first, then heat the flange and strike it with a mini sledge until it breaks free from the shaft. Once the flange is off you can drill and tap for a new screw with a larger diameter.
Wow! Glad to see y'all keep your sense of humor. Y'all had my body aching just watching. I'd have to bleep out most of the video if that was me working cramped up like that. Y'all will get it, somehow. Sorry I don't have any idea except beat the bleep out of it with a big bleeping hammer. Fair seas guys and lots of luck. 👍⛵🐶♥️🍻
Your tenacity is incredible. I would be throwing things and cussing like a ........oh a sailor. Keep the faith and good luck!
On your dripless coupler there are a set of set screws under the first ones to hold them in place.
You are correct and we did remove those but didn't show it. They came out like a breeze.
Hey BOAB, If all else is failing your best bet is simply cut the flange with a cutoff disc, maybe even in 2 places if it still refuses to come off. If you can cut out maybe a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap you should be able to get a chisel in it. If it still refuses to come just keeping more chunks out and sooner or later it will fall off!!! Good luck, I've had the same problem with a flange and just kept cutting chunks out of it and it fell off!!! Peace Luv & Rock N Roll
Drill the entire bolt out. Threads and all. Once the flange is removed from the shafts take the flange end to a metal shop to get filled, drilled, and tapped.
The best penetrating oil: 50% acetone/50% ATF. Shake it very well before each use because they don't mix. Let it soak and reaply. This combination makes a quimical reaction with rust that breaks it, and lose the bolt.
Marvel Mystery Oil makes a special penetrant that I found works the best on old British sports car rusted bolts
I've never really worked on sailboats personally for what its worth, but if the set screw actually screws into a hole in the shaft the issue might be that the bit you drilled out with is too small and there is still an outer ring of the set screw remaining in the hole, passing between the two pieces. You might want to try drilling the hole down to the shaft to a bigger diameter, one that is correct for the next next standard screw/tap you would be able to get so you can replace it with a bigger screw later. Even just the thread of the original screw can be a deceptively large amount of material and being a set screw like that it's intentional that it has a significant mechanical advantage against removing the shaft
Hang in their guys your living the Dream of many !!!!!
I got to give you guys a lot of credit you are taking on some really horrible tough jobs that in a boat yard the workers resist doing you guys are bad to the bone well done
I dig your video still. Drill it out, all the way. Keep going up in size. Then retap it with the new set screw or bolt. Drill brother drill.
I agree. Drill it out big as needed. Also (after your success of removing the shaft) you can start another spot to drill and add a new set screw or two. Keep up the good attitude and determination. Thanks for sharing your ups and downs.
agree.
Drill it out, retap, and replace with a GRADE 8 Bolt instead of a set screw....
Copy...and drill we will
Bums on a Boat drill out completely, bigger, and tap new threads and lots of heat ! Cherry red! The coupling is going to be rusted solid on that shaft!
Behind all that you have a (stupid) dripless seal unfortunately, when you pull the shaft thru it the shaft must be perfect or it will damage the seal and need very expensive parts to fix.
I assume you are doing all this because you know your cutters bearing is bad?
I ask because it water fed from the tube going to the dripless seal and should not really be worn......
Horrible conditions you are working in.
Cheers Warren
Tap on it lightly with a small hammer repidly for 30 seconds. Vibration does wonders
You will need to drill the set screw out as it’s too late to do anything else. Make sure your drill bit is the same size as the set screw and dribble undiluted washing detergent on the drill bit as you are drilling....it keeps the drill bit cool and helps it cut....good luck
I'm really enjoying this. I will be impressed when it is all back together.
I totally feel for them! One muther fucing screw! I've been there.
It's the dumbest thing. A whole project held up over something so small.
And boy are they trying!!
I really don't like how the boat designers put stuff like this in these tight hard to reach spots!!
I used to work a diesel turbocharger bench for big Cats ... lots of frozen bolts, baked by hi-temps.
Ideal scenario:
Cut the bolt / set screw flush; center punch it and drill it. Center punch as accurately in the center of the flush set screw as you can, start with pilot hole and increase drill bit size 'til you get to the threads. If done right, you preserve the threads and can pick the remains of the set screw out of the preserved threads.
Less than ideal scenario:
If centering the punch was not correct and the threads are damaged, I would drill a larger hole, tap it for new threads and use a thread insert. We used Helicoils (example link below). Hole, threads, helicoil, set screw must all match-up.
The main issue, of course is to get the shaft out. Once done, you can make decisions about repairing / reconstructing the hole using above techniques or otherwise. So having and knowing the above techniques, consider just drilling the whole damn thing out.
www.amazon.com/Helicoil-Insert-Stainless-Unified-Coarse/dp/B00FAV78P4/ref=lp_6909192011_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1555123524&sr=1-6
www.amazon.com/Threaded-Inserts/b?node=16410701
There are bolt/screw extractors. But be _really_ carefull with those. I think they are hardened and if you break one in the hole, you are f*kd.
Good luck. Would luv to be there to help.
So we didn't use the center punch accurately enough so it looks like we are looking at the less than ideal scenario. Thanks for the info on a thread insert. This is most likely our next move.
Do what this guy says.
Another thing to try is left fluted drill bits. Works sometimes. Depends on what sort of stuck it is.www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Cobalt-Broken-Damaged-Extractor/dp/B01MYRR603/ref=asc_df_B01MYRR603/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241941495556&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13530748795715362113&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011312&hvtargid=pla-668903921205&psc=1
Good job on that wheel. Tip tighten then tap pretty good on the centre bolt to shock it. Lots of oil on shaft. If that is a good puller you can use much more wrench than you had in the video. Clean up well and it can be easy to take off when it interferes with drinks service.
True dat... the bennies of taking the wheel off is to make it easier next time anchored out and need more room in the cockpit, also dissuade the theives that are following all the work you are putting in just to go off and leave her again for next Hurricane season....
I'm an aircraft mechanic and boat owner for 30-years. If you HAVE to remove it: drill out the bolt, threads and all. Squirt penetrant into hole and tap-tap with a hammer around flange. Do this tap-tap over a few hours. Wipe up oil. Put a spacer in there like the restaurant guy said - a socket should work well and moderately tighten the flange bolts. Heat the coupling near the bolt hole 360 all the way around with the torch - you don't have to get it red hot - just enough to expand the coupling WITHOUT transferring heat to the shaft - so do it quickly. Transmission in reverse should help lock the shaft and then crank down on the flange bolts. Again, work quickly. If this does not work, then you're going to have to either cut the shaft or split the coupling (fore-aft) with an angle grander. In both of those cases, unfortunately, new shaft or coupling. Good luck and careful of bug-spray around a flame.
I’m sorry but you guys are hilarious! I look forward to every video. But don’t give up. I have no doubt you guys will someday be out there sailing. Best wishes.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure !" When assembling items that are pressed on to a shaft (like the wheel or the prop) or assembling stainless steel bolts/nuts ALWAYS use anti-seize. Also, things like props, coupling, wheels should be removed, inspected, lubed every few year. My guess is that those have NEVER been removed.
Drill bits are an interesting topic. Of course they have to be sharp. Cobalt bits ARE very hard, but that also make them very brittle and they will break easier when you apply pressure.
We have learned this lesson the hard way and this is what we are attempting to implement with all of this tearing apart nonsense. If we can get back to square one we will have an easier time inspecting things every few years. Thanks for sending the anti-seize...it also appears to be a lock tight!? Crazy, didn't know such a product existed.
@@Bumsonaboat - Don't feel bad ! Lessons from the "School of Hard Knocks" stay with you for a long time !
Always consider electroysis- there are different types of anti-seize. Different temperature ranges too.
@@billroberts9182 - Correct ! For stainless or aluminum, you want non-metallic anti-seize.
Another point on using anti -seize It is one of the best for preventing corrosion in salt water. A bolt that had anti-seize on it was as good as new after ten years but where it did not it was half eaten away.
I'm a fan of using heat, but you are a little past that point now. Remember when you are using the torch, don't heat the bolt but the area around it, heat creates expansion and you don't want to make the bolt any bigger. I think the drill crowd is on the right track, good luck!
After i heat i apply some candle wax which gets pulled down in the threads and acts like a lubricant. Always works on the worst ones lol
A few things.
1. An EZout. Bolt extractor.
2. When applying heat, you want to heat the coupling, not the bolt. You want the hole to expand, not the thing stuck in the hole.
TOO small for EZ DOZ
They make them down to 1/16...
@@keithbarry001 IF the Screw Twisted of a 1/16 ez out Will Do SCHIFF! I Use them 4 out of SEVEN DAYZ
Amazing dream sequence. Almost looked real! Keep up the good work, it WILL pay off.
Great music choices, dreaming of sailing was beautifully hilarious. Video wins "Best Frustrating Mechanical Moments" award.
With regards to the set screw, you need to drill the full diameter of the set screw. If you do not, the remaining portion with continue to hold things in place. You can drill it over sized and then tap it later for a larger set screw. After you have it totally drilled out, fill it up with penetrating oil a few times a day for a couple of day. Then apply pressure as you are doing.
You guys are getting there! Almost at the end of the big jobs. Off to sailing fun times.
Ummm...yeah but there’s still the small matter of putting it all back together again!
Keep up the good work!
If all else fails.. use a die grinder on the Coupler cutting through to the shaft Lengthwise then insert A chisel In the cut And hammer It until it splits .. or just enough to spread it open to pull the shaft if you do the latter you might be able to salvage the coupler by welding the cut back up instead of buying a new one ..
Good luck.
Your doing great and you have a ton of courage. Note: Reverse Thread... Right tight Left Louse NORMAL This is reverse thread Left Tight Left Tight.... use a pipe wrench due to the head being removed. your going backwards/reverse the screw. Good luck and keep it up.
I'm assuming this video is way behind where you are as you read this but if not... What you need is an easy out. It's basically a thing that looks like a cross between a drill bit and a screw. BUT it's backwards. It actually pulls itself into the hold you drilled but it does it as you turn it left instead of right. It's a lefty tighty and righty loosy. The complete opposite of what you usually do. But when you turn it to the left it pulls itself into the hole while it's forcing the stuck bolt to turn lefty loosy. Suggestion 2 soak all the stuck area with white vinegar. Vinegar reverses rust from iron ozide to iron freeing up the corrosion in the process. IF you've never done this... put some vinegar in a glass bowl and put a rusted nut, bolt or any iron object that is rusted into the bowl and wait about 15-20 minutes and pull out the metal piece. You'll be amazed.
Loved the dream sequence
Whenever we had an issue with removing screws while I was in the US Navy, we would break out a kit of easy outs. Plus if you damage the internal threads try using a helicoil instead of re-tapping the hole.
Next time heat up the housing around the screw or bolt let the metal expand and the screw will back right out
More spray...... Cough cough, gag. 😂😂😂 drone footage. Wooohooo. You two are so awesome. Keep drilling till there is no more set screw. 👍
The owner was in the right direction, you need to stack stuff inside tell it creates a wedge, it appears they sink inwards, thus will require more thickness to create the wedge for when you tighten the bolts.. When you tighten the bolts they should not allow the flange to touch or it will never wedge it off..
4" cutting wheel. Cut the coupling along the keyway so as not to damage the shaft too badly and replace the coupling. Or cut the shaft and replace both. Don't forget to replace the cutlass bearing when you get the shaft out
a little hint if you hit the puller on the bolt head where you have the wrench with a hammer once it is tight it usually helps to pop it loose
That's about as much frustration as a human can stand! If there is no key between the shaft and coupling, then the shaft torque may have distorted the end of the screw where it meets the shaft, which would jam it in place. So as the others have said, keep drilling bigger till it gives up. Greg
So good to see that you got some time to go play have an awesome day hope you get that stubborn bolt out:-) peace out
I would recommend using the Dremel to make two flat surfaces on the outside of that set screw, but you already drilled it out. At this point you may have to keep drilling bigger hole until you are positive there are no threads left and then tap it out again for a bigger bolt. Or just get a torch cutter in there and rip the whole damned thing out, lol.
worse case scenario if you cannot remove the jam screw there is a keyway still under it by drilling and tapping or extractor removal is to see if there is another propeller shaft to gearbox coupling available.
If there is get some thin metal cutting blades for your angle grinder and split it in parallel with the jambolt and smaller diameter of the hub on the shaft and sacrifice it to the coupling gods.
It looks pretty much standard 2-piece motor coupling, a machine shop could bore the right sized holes and broach new keyways. Sometimes you have to take the replace it route. There might even be some in their boneyard you could make use.
Once you have tension on the puller and you can't turn the wrench any more take a 2 lb hammer and smack the end of the puller shaft HARD. The wheel will pop right off. 25 yrs as an equipment machinic taught me that :o) Soon as the set screw would not turn, THAT is when you should have used heat. You don't want to heat the screw but the collar around the set screw. When it gets hot the coller will expand away from the screw. You have to get it HOT! like 450-500 deg hot and the set screw would have come right out. If it sticks, freezes or otherwise wont budge...STOP dont force it cause you will get the same result every time a FKD UP part. Love your vids by the way...
Keep going guys. As we say over here in good old Blighty, "keep your chin up".
As others have said drill out the set screw hole wider and make sure you get all the way down to the actual shaft and go into it a bit. The man at the bar had the best idea put a socket or something that will put pressure on the actual shaft when you tighten the 2 flanges together. You may have to get some longer threaded bolts for this process. Once you have some pressure on the actual shaft using the process just mentioned turn the shaft where the set screw hole is in the up position and put your penetrating oil into the hole and keep it there and keep it full for a few days then try and tighten the 2 flanges further together each day or so it will start to come off at a point but time is your friend when using penetrating oil. Also I have heard you mention you have acetone. If you combine 50 percent acetone and 50 percent automatic transmission oil it makes the best penetrating oil in the business. I have done shafts before not a newby.
Also I heard you guys say you had damaged the threads on the shaft. I have taken a file that is triangle in shape and repaired threads on a shaft taking my time etc and using the nut (serviceable nut) to make sure it will thread onto the shaft where I repaired it. You can also drill a small hole through the shaft (for small cotter pin) which would be behind the nut to keep the nut from being able to back off the shaft when at sea and save you from losing your prop. If their is a nearby machine shop they can also put in a lathe and repair your threads and make sure the shaft isn't out of true. You can also spin it on a level surface like a glass table to see if its true won't be as good as a machine shop but better than nothing especially since it doesn't spin as fast as a power boat.
I am also guessing you will be replacing the cutlass bearing you can take a sharp hack saw blade and put it through the cutlass bearing and cut it in half on the bottom side then in half on the top side and it will be easy to get it out then.
When I make my packing for the prop shaft or steering shaft I wrap the packing around the shaft 4 times and hold it tight with one hand at both ends then take a razor knife and cut all 4 wraps it in half using the razor knife that gives you 3 perfect circles for your packing. I also use marine grease and pack the packing with marine grease before re-assemble. You also have to adjust your packing by how many drips per second come into the boat on steering it doesn't need to drip as often if at all because a steering shaft is not spinning like a prop shaft is. A prop shaft needs to drip to keep the packing from overheating when the shaft is spinning.
I hope that helps!!
I allways leave retapping for last...first thing i do is to hit the screw..or nut with a hammer...this will shake the thread some...and then apply heat with any sort of a torch...it works for me...cheers!
I've always heard PB Blaster is basically acetone and automatic transmission fluid mixed 50/50, it works. Another initial trick is to heat the bolt and apply paraffin wax to the threads. The wax sucks down and lubricates the threads. I once snapped off an intake to head bolt, then I snapped off an ease out! I dulled several bits trying to get that ease out, out and finally called a drill bit speciality shop and told them I needed a drill bit from hell. So fifty bucks later hell bit came in the mail and drilled through that ease out like it was butter.
You need to use cutting oil on the drill bits to keep them cool
And the right speed arriba los Bums
We were using 3 in 1 to keep them cool but forgot to show that.
Best video yet. Love the dream sequence.
you first have to drill through the bolt so that it no longer sticks to the shaft
perhaps making an M6 a M8 ?
put a nut in between it, put it under tension, and hit it with a heavy hammer at 4 points
put the bolts back on tension and hit them again.
so you make the shaft vibrate and it comes loose.
drill larger hole to get all of set screw drilled out, then when out, retap larger size thread, then to get off, heat flange and not shaft and try socket idea
This was the toughest bums vid to watch. Currently I have a brace on my left arm from 2017 winter when I needed to replace our stuffing box. 1972 boat. Did all of the things you have done and more... that screw will never turn, that shaft coupler will likely never come off in one piece. A new coupler is not that expensive. I used an angle grinder to cut the flange off the coupler, then cut the rest of the coupler into two pieces. It was such an odd angle and to get at, I ended up pulling a couple tendons in my left elbow. Looks like you've got it easy with even lying down next to it and room enough to work! I'd suggest sourcing a new coupler for the shaft and taking a grinder to it, but don't get hurt. :)
Oh man sorry to bring back tough memories. It is refreshing to hear that this can be a tough job. We were pretty discouraged at how much time and effort went into accomplishing pretty much nothing. I think we will try drilling out a bigger hole first before we move to the next option which will be the angle grinder.
@@Bumsonaboat yeah drilling that out over sized is not a bad thing. You can always drill and tap a new set screw hole. Use a LOT more heat, but that gets in to other things possibly getting damaged. Angle grinder is fastest if you have a replacement coupler. Even then it might be tough to separate from shaft due to corrosion. I really don't believe that thing will EVER slide off though. If it was it off the boat with big torch and gear puller, MAYBE. Keep kicking ass!
Just don't get hurt. That is the important part.
Next time, before doing anything . . heat the metal around the bolt as hot as you can. Then spray with oil ,let it cool(when it cools it will suck the oil in ) repeat 3 or 4 times . . . then try to remove the bolt . . use the expansion and contraction to your advantage to suck the oil in as much as possible . . it works
1) drill out set screw till every trace is removed. 2) Flange is siezed onto shaft. It may be mostly at the aft end of the flange. Put a grinding bit on that dremel and remove just a few thou right at the metal to metal junction so there is no lip or rust. 3) Do boat guys have an oxy acetylene torch. If so, heat that flange to near red while rotating it for even heat . 4) tape a huge washer to the cold sided of the flange 5) put the nut back on the end of the prop shaft to protect the threads 6) BFH to drive the shaft further into the flange. If you move it at all, more oil then try the socket and bolts again to draw it back. 7) Rinse and repeat. Last time I did something similar I did about 6 cycles before she came loose. Patience. Tiny increments. 10 thou is a win.
How Many Hairz is a Few THOU>
@@toolmaker3799 4 blonde
Hi Guys. Drill out 0.5-1.0mm bigger than the bolt diameter. Drill carefully until all the bolt is out - you will put a ding in the shaft 1-1.5mm deep to allow for the drill tip/web but that won’t matter. Once off, clean up hole, retap to new size. Use a bolt you can wire lock secure as with the ding in the shaft, you won’t need it so tight to hold it for the next time you want it off.
If you have not drilled over size the tip of the set screw is probably still in the shear line, between the coupler and the shaft. At this point you may consider an oversized hole to clear the shear line. Also you maybe able to jam the shaft by placing a pipe wrench on the coupler while jacking the screw on the gear puller. Good luck.
Also stainless to stainless gauls very easily. Sometimes you must destroy the least expensive part to save the other. If all else fails you cut coupler off with a cutoff disc on grinder split length wise with shaft to allow coupler to expand and use a ss antisieze when putting back together, ie blue goop
Usually prop shafts have a keeper nut on them to hold the shaft key in its slot. Take the coupling apart then look at the end of the shaft.
You two are Awesome.
Feeeelin your pain ,,, hugs from Cabernet...
HUGGSS
If you can find a left handed drill bit. They come with an EasyOut kit, but you might find one separately. You then drill in reverse, eventually the bit will catch, and the screw will come out.
Something like this...
www.amazon.com/Comoware-Drill-Piece-Titanium-Coating/dp/B07LCCBYSL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=15L0Y79O80WBD&keywords=left+handed+drill+bit+set&qid=1555218896&s=gateway&sprefix=lefthanded+dr%2Caps%2C267&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
First off you guys are SUPER TALENTED at putting together videos. Absolutely remarkable.I believe that set screw was stainless,it GAULED [technical term]Antiseize was SUPPOSED to be put on before tightening.Same with the steering wheel a little antiseize or grease works wonders.Your wife has good mechanical instincts that was a good idea slotting that set screw if it were not stainless that would have worked.Unfortunated you are going to have to drill out that hard stainless set screw out of that hard cast steel [or iron]coupler half.The real trade name of PB blaster is weasel piss.[just in case some one ask you if you put weasel piss on it.]Both of you have good mechanical skills in my humble opinion.I,m retired from mechanical trades.Your videos are absolutely fantastic and better that what hollywood can put out!!!The music great!!Sail boaters are a talented bunch!!Put a little grease on the treads of that puller if you have to use it again.Good Luck!!!You guys are fun!!Your going to have to drill and tap a new hole.If that is a 5/16 set screw the drill size is 1/4.If its 3/8 drill 5/16.Use lots of oil of the tap.Its probably NC[national course]
You will have to drill out the old screw and once you have it off re-tap the hole one size bigger. Thats all you can do now...or get a new/used coller to replace it with. Good luck guys.
Good one guys. Loved the dreaming...and you thought it was going to be easy. 😂😜✌️
just drill it and next time u have a stuck bolt, use penetrating fluid direct and heat if that fails, and dont heat the bolt very important else u will end up strip it, heat the material that the bolt is stuck to. now theres nothing left but to drill it out. but be careful not to destroy the threads, you can take a other bolt and drill a hole into it and then screw that bolt just a millimeter in and drill out the rest of the snap off bolt and after use a threader to clean the threads out, if the threads is destroyed you must drill out the hole to a larger diameter and then thread new threads. greets from sweden
Drill the bolt out completely and tap for a larger set bolt. But if the shaft is shot from taking the prop off the get the dimensions and post them public. I personally come across tons of good useable shafts everyday that could be sent to you if the correct size.
Use acetone mixed with automatic transmission fluid. In my previous life on ships at sea we used wintergreen to free up bolts. Just some old-timer solutions
Put some oil on the threads of that puller next time you use it. Makes life easier.
try using a screw driver or leaver bar in between the bolt head and the prop shaft. wedge it against a solid surface and they try to tighten the bolts
You can clean up the damaged threads on the shaft with jewelers files and lubricant. Once you can get the nut started, if you need to you put some very fine grit lapping compound on the threads and work the nut on (back and forth, a little at a time). I would recommend using a different nut with the correct thread size for that. Yes I've had to do that. No, it wasn't pretty. Memories.
Here in Colombia you weld another screw or a piece of iron on top of the broken one to unscrew it. Welding inverters are cheap nowadays. Now that you have drilled a hole, maybe you can 1. Fill in the hole with welding electrode to drill a correct size and redo the thread or 2. just redo a thread with a bigger thread size. In the hardware store there are a kind of threaded bits to do so.
I feel for you man! Measure the coupling thickness to determine how deep you need to drill. You want to avoid drilling into the key as this may just add friction to the coupling removal. If a machine shop is available Id borrow an "end mill bit" as it is flat on bottom. Do the yard boys have a set of torches? I am afraid even with the set screw out of the way you will need way more heat than the one you have. With your socket inside the coupling tighten up the bolts and start to apply heat. Shock the coupling with a large hammer. Recheck the bolt tightness if they loosen the shaft is moving. Good luck and thanks for the videos!
drill it out to a bigger size you can aways find a bigger set screw, much more heat with the spacer between the two couplers and as you heat and heat tighten the bolts
You already have the best suggestions listed over drill and retap, heat entire flange and use puller( watch out for fire ) or cut flange (make sure you can get replacement first ) Good luck Last resort and most $ cut and replace shaft.
I stepped on a bee as kid my parents took me to the seaside, after walking in the sea water for five minutes the pain was completely gone, try it if it still hurts
drill the set screw right out first. then use the spacer and put as much fetch on the bolts as you can and heat it with the torch if it doesn't come off spray with penetrant again and leave it. come back later and repeat. also when you're using a puller to remove anything off a tapered shaft first grease the threads on the puller put it on, tighten it then hit the end of the bolt on the puller with a hammer it increases the pressure and the shockload will usually break it free. if it doesn't and you can't tighten it more just leave it on there and come back later and try again then try heat if necessary.
You Need a small propane torch and get the yellow bottle it burns hotter... You will be amazed at what a little heat can do to help get stuck bolts and other things out!!!
Hello Just drill the hole out the size of the bolt and it should come out and of course you will have to re tap the coupler that should work , hope this helps
definitely let it soak in the lubricant. From there try the socket again, except tap it with a hammer every so obtain when tightening the bolts. This will help to vibrate it loose.
drill perhaps use a reverse thread drill bit to pull extra metal out from the old screw. - I reamed a broken bolt out and was luckily able to rethread a new bolt after carefully cleaning out old bolt. Measure closely with the drill for depth as there maybe a small bevel on the shaft. Try the gear puller on the flange as well the old screw. You maybe be able to secure the shaft from spinning to with a rag and pipe wrench... I hope you get it free and clean...
Drill the set screw out with a drill bit slightly larger in diameter. Then, use oil, heat, pressure, and vibration. Oil and heat are obvious. Pressure from the socket in the center with the bolts, and vibration from a hammer. Tighten it, tap on it for a minute, tighten a bit more, let it sit for a minute, tap it, tighten. Be patient. If it takes a day or two to finally break loose, it will be much better than hastily removing it and hurting something in the process.
Heat the hub not the screw. Heating the screw makes it tighter. The best penetrant is Kroil. Good luck.
I farmed over 600 hives in one honey season. When stung use a credit card or your finger nail to scrape out stinger. Do not pull out the stinger. You'll just inject more venom. Secondly Honey is a natural astringent, apply honey to sting area it will pull out the venom. Works way better than baking soda. 😉 For future reference.
Be sure the "coins" method is pushing against the opposite coupler not the gear box shaft (so you don't pull that one off instead). Then tighten it as much as you can and put heat into the coupler you're removing (on the area where the the shaft is). If you have a drift or a long bolt you can use to give it a whack with your hammer the shock might break it loosen it too. (Of course try not to ding or bend it by hitting it directly). If that fails will the coupler fit through the bottom of the boat if the fittings the shaft goes through the bottom is removed? I feel for you guys! That's a tough one but you're giving it your best! Best of luck - we're pulling for you!
Use heat as stated, and candle wax it will pull it in and soak up all that white corrosion goodness and help tremendously. Turn the bolt some them tighten it back up, then repeat. Maybe a hundred times. While applying heat. Hammer helps too. I grew up in the Florida keys and have a lot of frozen bolts to my name. A lot of broken bolts too lol.
Best vid from you guys yet, right down to the music selection!
Duuuuuuuude, penetrating oil first! Several times over a day or hours or so. Them maybe even some heat with a torch if it looks bad prior to the first try. Also heat around the screw, not the screw itself to expand the metal. Great vid. Cheers
Thank you, two techniques we will use in the future.
It is a little late for this tip, but you will have it for the next stubborn bolt/screw. The secret if it does not break free loosening it, it to tighten it a little bit. Then loosen the bolt/screw. There are times that you may have to tighten and loosen repeatedly. And each time it will loosen more and more.
Easy out / bolt extractor is a NO NO in my opinion.
It's quite easy to break one inside the bolt and then you are facing only more work.
I would just keep drilling and when done, make new threads.
Agreed. Way past EZout territory.
Time to cut the coupling off. Not hard to get a replacement. Be sure to get new one bored out to dimensions of your shaft or get a two part coupling
If the set screw is ss and the coupler is iron, you have a fused together galvanic action! Drill it out larger and retap the threads! Don't use an ss set screw! or if you do use some anti-seize paste. Probably already have it done? good luck!
Bigger bit, you can always tap it for a larger set screw.
Thats what we are thinking.