Designer Toys Come To Life With 3d Printing
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- Making designer toys from start to finish, I will show my process from the moment the piece leaves the 3d printer until it's packed and ready to be shipped to the collector.
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Creating and sculpting this version of Telos based on the original character that I created a while ago was something I wanted to do for a while. I wanted the toy to capture what made Telos such a cool designer toy but I wanted this piece to be cute and chibi, and I think the tiny cute hands and the small coffin backpack make the toy look adorable. For the sneakers, I wanted to try something that I have never done with any of my designer toys, I wanted the laces to be made of a rope cause I thought it would add a nice contrast to the toy and would save so much time on having to hand paint those tiny shoe laces.
00:00 Introduction
00:16 Cleaning 3d prints
01:37 Filling drainage/Vent holes
02:43 UV Curing
03:25 Sanding
04:55 Airbrushing
05:34 Checking each piece
06:41 Airbrushing base colours
07:19 Hand-painting masks
08:11 Hand-painting shoes
09:13 Preparing shoe laces
11:00 Threading shoe laces
13:19 Glueing
15:33 Packing piece
16:36 Final presentation 
Хобби
Telos is an orphan who lived in many foster homes until one day he decided to run away.
He lived on the streets, he made some friends, lived under bridges, slept in parks on benches, and survived doing petty crimes. And, on a cold winter's night, he died frozen on a bench.
Well, that took a wrong turn for the worse pretty quick. It's a story of a boy grim-reaper - what did you expect?
Death saw something in the boy, and he decided to make him an apprentice. He assigned Ursos as his mentor.
Your toys and videos are top quality. I watched your sculpts on instagram but seeing behind the scenes, how everything is made is a treat. Thank you for showing it!
Thank you so much for the kind words Michal. It really means a lot! your work is beautiful; I love the Alice in Wonderland pieces that you did; these came out so beautiful.
I love your work!
Thank you so much for the kind words ☺️❤️🙏
Awesome work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Love it! 😍
Thank you lovely! 😍🥰
Very cool! 🖤🖤🖤
Thank you!
Meeting Death is better than trying to ignore it!
"Your Zeal has to be greater than your fear."
Ursos Al-Sapientia
Love how you document your process and your work is so inspiring
Thank you so much! Yes, I used the Form cure to UV all my pieces, but to be honest, it's too expensive for that money. You can get a 3d printer from Anycubic, and they released the Anycubic Wash & Cure Max Machine which washes and cures your pieces.
This is the third video of yours that I've watch in a row, and WOW! Your designs are incredibles! Once you're done painting the models, do you use some kind of protective top coat? I'm new to 3d printing and would love product recommendations from resins to primers and paints. Either way, thank you for sharing your artistic process with us! 😊
Thank you so much for the kind words. Really means a great deal. Yes, I seal my figures with a sealer from Vallejo acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/auxiliaries-model/acrylic-matt-spray-varnish-28531/ Matt, Satin or glossy depending on what type of material I am going for.
@@karmieh Thank you! I will definitely give it a try! :)
this is honestly bad ass. what sort of paints are you useing?
Thank you so very much for the kind words, I am using MR Surfacer for the primer and Tamiya flat black XF-1 and Tamiya Red XF-7 and I think for the white I am using either Tamiya or Mr hobby Glossy, I mix a big bottle to make easier for airbrushing. I promise to make a video only with the paints that I use.
Great stuff. I'm curious. You place alot of faith in the 3D printer to get clean, flaw free prints. Do you get alot if rejects and any reason not to do one good print ,prep and sand etc. Then RTV mold that clean one compared to doing repeatedly finish processing numerous 3d prints?
Thank you, well I don't always get clean prints, sometimes I need to re-print but since I have bought the Form 3 there have been fewer cases. As for production if my run is under 25 piece I make them all in house using the 3d printer, I used to mould and cast but it's very time consuming and you have to put in the time to get good at it. And I decided that I would rather spend my time learning how to be a better sculptor and toy designer then moulder and caster. At the end of the day there is only 24 hours in one day. If I release a toy that is over the 25 pieces then I usually hire a caster to mould and cast them for me, if the run is small I would ask to be cast, cleaned and primed and I will paint them but if the run is over 100 pieces then I would hire a small shop to take care of moulding casting, painting and foam cutting so the whole production. Hope this answers your question.
I love your work, thanks again for such a great informative video. hope I can make my own toys, already have plenty of tools..
I have a question! after you mark your pieces with a black marker after you prime them, do you sand them only by hand? what grit paper you use at that stage?
Thank you so much for the kind words! I wish you all the best in your journey. After I mark those pieces I go and sand them again either by hand or with the Linear sander, I use high grit paper 600-800 and sometimes 1000 depending on the piece, but I highly recommend those 3M sanding sponges they are a game changer, and using them on the Linear sander it just saved me so many hours. I hope this helps!
HEY! I loved seeing the process of your work, it's very well documented! thank you so much for sharing it. I also make toys and there are some things that I have keep as tips :) so THANKS!!
I wanted to ask you if you use any product at the end of the painting process to protect the paint? I'm using Vallejo varnish, but I'm wondering if you have any better suggestions.
By the way, I also loved the packaging.
Thanks for the video!
Hey! Thank you so very much for the kind words! I am so happy that you found the video helpful, it really means a lot.
As for varnish, I use Vallejo as-well, matt, satin and gloss and I love them.
may i ask where the box comes from?? did you also make that yourself? That packaging/stickers is the cherry on top!
I designed those boxes, but I had them made at a company that specialises in this. Thank you, glad you like how it came out!
Amazing toy!!! Your workflow and workshop are admirable, as a 15 years resin scale model manufacturer, today I still keep learning from talented people like you. Kind regards from Argentina.
Thank you so much for the kind words 🙌❤️🙏 much love from Transylvania
Hey there, great stuff! What brand is that small sander, I've never seen anything like it and really need it in my process!
Thank you 🙏❤️🙌 The sanding tool is called a Linear sander its from a company called Proxxon you can check it out here www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28594.php
amz.run/7Kof
@@karmieh awesome, really appreciate that!
Hello, I find your work amazing and very clean. I was wondering what was the reference of your airbrush spray booth please? I'd love to see a video of your set up he is incredible !
Thank you so much for your kind words, for airbrush I used two airbrushes both from Harder & Steenbeck an Infinity and an Ultra, as for the spray booth, its from a company in the UK called Benchvent, this is the one that I got, I have had this booth for about 4 years now and it's been just fantastic.
Hi, my friend, great video.😻 What kind of grinding machine do you have for processing?
The sanding tool is called a Linear sander its from a company called Proxxon you can check it out here www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28594.php
amz.run/7Kof
A piece of advice: you should never use alchohol on a sonic cleaner, that can combust because of the highly flammable properties of the isopropanol mixed with the vibrations of the process by the sonic cleaner. Another thing is you should cure the print first before sealing the holes because if its not well cured on the inside the print will start to generate gases inside and if it doesn't have nowhere to go it can crack some time later. Try curing it in water, the UV light will disperse much better everywhere included inside and so give it a much more uniform cure
Thank you for the advice and your concern, really means a lot 🤗. but I have been using it for about 5 years now, the temperature never goes over 40 degrees it's a small ultrasonic, I have looked into it before using it. The only thing that you need to do is to keep an open window to make sure you have enough fresh air or wear a mask. As for the filling holes, I always levea at least one hole for the gasses to be released, thank you for the tip though. In 8 years of toy design and prototyping I have seen my share of broken cracked or ballooned pieces, so I learned it the hard way. I was actually going to record a video on how to never close your figure totally. As for curing with water Idont know what to say, I have seen some makers do that, I never tried it mysel, the form labs curing booth uses heat while curing depending on what resin you print with. So I am guessing or at least hoping they know their stuff 😅
@@karmieh can you use silicone brushed on Over a sculpture made from magic sculpt, two part epoxy clay?
I'm using Rebound 25 silicone.
I know you can't use sulfur based Clay's, even sealed with brush on silicone.
Won't cure
@@Arnoldman-ep9gw I wish I could help you with that, I have no idea, I stopped moulding and casting about 4 years ago, I know the basic stuff when it comes to moulding and casting.
Do you always vent the holes right away?
I'm afraid mine might explode in few days, cause usually it's not cured that fast inside.
Yes, I always leave at least one hole open, I usually hide the holes on connecting keys or parts that are overlapped when you glue them, this way you never risk having the toy crack because of all the gas build-up, especially if you keep that piece in the sun or heat.
Hello, can I ask the what kind of color you use to draw by brush ? I drew with acrylic and the result looks so bad 😢
I use Tamiya, Mr Hobby Aqueous and Vallejo for airbrushing and hand painting. With Tamiya you have to add thick coats and be confident and let it dry before adding another, with vallejo if you want the result to come out clean you need to use thin layers and multiple ones this way you won't see the brush lines, Hope this helps,
Thank you, thank you so much, you save my life 😁
I am happy I could help 🙏🥰
What is that black marker for? How are the defaults fixed?
The black marker is for marking the areas that need more sanding, I don't know what you mean by the defaults, but if you are asking about the print supports, those are sanded off; for these pieces, I did two passes of sanding and priming, before applying the base colours. hope this helps
@@karmieh Yes, thanks a lot! I'm trying to learn the whole process
what the name of machine you use when sanding
It's called a mini linear sander the one I have is from a company called Proxxon.
What’s that sanding machine called?
The sanding tool is called a Linear sander it is from a company called Proxxon you can check it out here www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28594.php
@@karmieh Thanks good sir!
When you started to lace shoes I was like “wow this is serious” :) Love your work. Beautiful.
💀
I don't believe it's a safe practice to fill your hot ultrasonic tub with isopropyl alcohol.
Thank you for your concern, its a small ultrasonic, the temperature doesn't go up higher than 40 dergess Celsius, I have been using this methode for over 4 years now, and I didn't have any incidents, with that said, I n ver leave it without supervision, just make sure to wear a mask and have the room well ventilated.