Telos is an orphan who lived in many foster homes until one day he decided to run away. He lived on the streets, he made some friends, lived under bridges, slept in parks on benches, and survived doing petty crimes. And, on a cold winter's night, he died frozen on a bench. Well, that took a wrong turn for the worse pretty quick. It's a story of a boy grim-reaper - what did you expect? Death saw something in the boy, and he decided to make him an apprentice. He assigned Ursos as his mentor.
@@joseeduardogutierrezjara5679 Thank you! 🙏😊 You can order one here www.karmieh.com/products/minima-limited-edition-resin-toy?_pos=1&_sid=8e137e82b&_ss=r
Your toys and videos are top quality. I watched your sculpts on instagram but seeing behind the scenes, how everything is made is a treat. Thank you for showing it!
Thank you so much for the kind words Michal. It really means a lot! your work is beautiful; I love the Alice in Wonderland pieces that you did; these came out so beautiful.
Amazing toy!!! Your workflow and workshop are admirable, as a 15 years resin scale model manufacturer, today I still keep learning from talented people like you. Kind regards from Argentina.
Fantastic video. Very impressive. I did consider a resin printer but looking at the extra equipment, sundries and supplies required it's really not worth it for me. I'll probably just buy and paint the odd mini but overall my 3D printing will be for tools, prototypes, mainly storage items in my workshop and spare parts with the odd print in place toy for the kids.
Thank you so much for the kind words, I totally agree, for a resin printer you need a special room for all the extra equipment and IPA and don;t get me started on the smells. FDM printing is way more suitable for a desktop 3d printer, especially if you are not doing this as a prototype studio. My first printer was a Zortrax and I loved that printer, I sold it to a friend of mine 5 years ago and I was pleased to hear that it's still running without any problems.
Thank you for the kind words. Yes, when I designed the toy I initially made a couple in the studio but ended up being so much work, I ended up hiring a local company to make custom coffin boxes for me, you can imagine how my studio looked when I received 500 tiny coffins.
Thank you 🙏❤️🙌 The sanding tool is called a Linear sander its from a company called Proxxon you can check it out here www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28594.php amz.run/7Kof
A piece of advice: you should never use alchohol on a sonic cleaner, that can combust because of the highly flammable properties of the isopropanol mixed with the vibrations of the process by the sonic cleaner. Another thing is you should cure the print first before sealing the holes because if its not well cured on the inside the print will start to generate gases inside and if it doesn't have nowhere to go it can crack some time later. Try curing it in water, the UV light will disperse much better everywhere included inside and so give it a much more uniform cure
Thank you for the advice and your concern, really means a lot 🤗. but I have been using it for about 5 years now, the temperature never goes over 40 degrees it's a small ultrasonic, I have looked into it before using it. The only thing that you need to do is to keep an open window to make sure you have enough fresh air or wear a mask. As for the filling holes, I always levea at least one hole for the gasses to be released, thank you for the tip though. In 8 years of toy design and prototyping I have seen my share of broken cracked or ballooned pieces, so I learned it the hard way. I was actually going to record a video on how to never close your figure totally. As for curing with water Idont know what to say, I have seen some makers do that, I never tried it mysel, the form labs curing booth uses heat while curing depending on what resin you print with. So I am guessing or at least hoping they know their stuff 😅
@@karmieh can you use silicone brushed on Over a sculpture made from magic sculpt, two part epoxy clay? I'm using Rebound 25 silicone. I know you can't use sulfur based Clay's, even sealed with brush on silicone. Won't cure
@@Arnoldman-ep9gw I wish I could help you with that, I have no idea, I stopped moulding and casting about 4 years ago, I know the basic stuff when it comes to moulding and casting.
Thank you so much for your kind words, The sandpaper I am using here is called 3M Softback Sanding Sponge and it comes in different grits. These sponges are available in a range of grades, including microfine (grade 1200 to 1500), ultrafine (grade 800 to 1000), superfine (grade 500 to 600), fine (320 to 400) and medium (grade 120 to 180).
Hello, I find your work amazing and very clean. I was wondering what was the reference of your airbrush spray booth please? I'd love to see a video of your set up he is incredible !
Thank you so much for your kind words, for airbrush I used two airbrushes both from Harder & Steenbeck an Infinity and an Ultra, as for the spray booth, its from a company in the UK called Benchvent, this is the one that I got, I have had this booth for about 4 years now and it's been just fantastic.
Hi! Very nice video and great detailed work. One question, where can I buy the oscillating tool that you use for sanding? I've looked everywhere and can't find a similar tool. Thanks!
Thank you so much for your kind words. It's called a mini linear sander made by a company called Proxxon. I made a list with the equipment that I use. www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
Thank you so much for the kind words, in this video I am using the Form 3 from formlabs, I made a blog entry with the list of equipment that I use, if you would like to check them out. www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
Thank you so much! Yes, I used the Form cure to UV all my pieces, but to be honest, it's too expensive for that money. You can get a 3d printer from Anycubic, and they released the Anycubic Wash & Cure Max Machine which washes and cures your pieces.
Thank you so very much for the kind words, I am using MR Surfacer for the primer and Tamiya flat black XF-1 and Tamiya Red XF-7 and I think for the white I am using either Tamiya or Mr hobby Glossy, I mix a big bottle to make easier for airbrushing. I promise to make a video only with the paints that I use.
This is the third video of yours that I've watch in a row, and WOW! Your designs are incredibles! Once you're done painting the models, do you use some kind of protective top coat? I'm new to 3d printing and would love product recommendations from resins to primers and paints. Either way, thank you for sharing your artistic process with us! 😊
Thank you so much for the kind words. Really means a great deal. Yes, I seal my figures with a sealer from Vallejo acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/auxiliaries-model/acrylic-matt-spray-varnish-28531/ Matt, Satin or glossy depending on what type of material I am going for.
Hi, firstly I just wanted to say how much I love the production of your videos. I wanted to ask if you’ve settled on the 3m ultra fine pads which I believe is what the red ones are after trying the other grades? Those things are so expensive for a box trust I don’t want to waste money on a box full that are either too fine or too corse. Thanks for your help. Van
Thank you so much for the kind words! Yes, i love using the 3M I start with the red Fine then blue (Superfine) I do have the next two which are Ultra fine and Macro fine, which I rarely use, cause usually those are if you are doing glass domes or pieces that need to be super shiny. I think if you get the red ones 3M Fine should be more than enough.
That's a very good question, cause I haven't recorded that part for any of my toy design projects, I just use warm water and dishwashing soap with toothbrush, manually, I tried to washing them in the ultrasonic but it ended up leaving stains so I went back to manually washing each part. I am editing a new video in which I show that process as-well. Hope this helps.
Thank you! Sure thing, it's called a linear sander, from a company called Proxxon. I went ahead and made a list of the equipment I use in my studio, feel free to check it out. www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
I use Tamiya, Mr Hobby Aqueous and Vallejo for airbrushing and hand painting. With Tamiya you have to add thick coats and be confident and let it dry before adding another, with vallejo if you want the result to come out clean you need to use thin layers and multiple ones this way you won't see the brush lines, Hope this helps,
Thank you so much! Yeah it was down for a day or so, thank you for letting me know. I am currently working on a course on how to design a toy from sketch to final product, I am hoping to have tot have it ready soon. Meanwhile, I do offer one on one mentoring on my Patreon on the Scholar level. Or on my website oasim.com/l/one-on-one if you have any questions please let me know.
Yes, well one of the reasons is that I am not great at moulding or casting, and to get good casts you need a pressure pot, and you need to know what you are doing. I used to cast and mould and it takes a lot of time to learn to cast clean pieces and at one point I decided that I want to be a good designer and sculptor and that I can't do everything, so I focused on what I can do best, most of the pieces I do in-house are low runa or one offs so it works out ok for me.
Great stuff. I'm curious. You place alot of faith in the 3D printer to get clean, flaw free prints. Do you get alot if rejects and any reason not to do one good print ,prep and sand etc. Then RTV mold that clean one compared to doing repeatedly finish processing numerous 3d prints?
Thank you, well I don't always get clean prints, sometimes I need to re-print but since I have bought the Form 3 there have been fewer cases. As for production if my run is under 25 piece I make them all in house using the 3d printer, I used to mould and cast but it's very time consuming and you have to put in the time to get good at it. And I decided that I would rather spend my time learning how to be a better sculptor and toy designer then moulder and caster. At the end of the day there is only 24 hours in one day. If I release a toy that is over the 25 pieces then I usually hire a caster to mould and cast them for me, if the run is small I would ask to be cast, cleaned and primed and I will paint them but if the run is over 100 pieces then I would hire a small shop to take care of moulding casting, painting and foam cutting so the whole production. Hope this answers your question.
Thank you so much for the kind words. I am currently working on a course on how to design a toy from sketch to final product, I am hoping to have it ready soon. Meanwhile, I do offer one on one mentoring on my Patreon on the Scholar level. Or on my website oasim.com/l/one-on-one if you have any questions please let me know.
Well, thank you! For airbrush, I def have to thin the paints out usually 1 part paint 2 or three parts thinner depending on the pigment. As for hand-painting, I don't thin out the pain, I soak the brush into some thinner and apply paint straight from the jar. As for paints I mostly use acrylic paints.
Thank you so much for your concern. Yes, IPA is dangerous, make sure you have proper ventilation whenever you are handling any IPA, Acetone or any other chemical substances. This is why lately lots of other non flammable chemicals are used for washing 3d printed parts. Formlabes has a washing solution that works great formlabs.com/eu/store/post-processing/resin-washing-solution/?srsltid=AfmBOopW6GSi7q3dfeyGhsi1KJsaUKIOXFfa3IyTj7Kta9MmgeiMGuIe and also other companies are making washing solutions phrozen3d.com/products/phrozen-wash-resin-cleaner
@karmieh Wow! Thank you. I really appreciate you taking the time to do that. You're art and process has inspired me to start printing and making figures myself.
@@Savannah_Ross Did I forget to share the link www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
It is a beautiful and very elaborate work. It would be necessary to evaluate whether it is better to give up something of quality in favor of the price, $250 is prohibitive for many pockets.
Thank you so much for the kind words, Yes, I totally understand, to have the price lower I need to produce a minimum quantity of 200-300 pieces and that works for some toys but my releases are constrained to 10 - 20 pieces and making those in a factory or a shop won't make the piece cheaper, belive it or not I make no profit when selling these, the resin from Formlabs is expensive, the paints that I use are expensive as-well and I don't even factor in the time it takes to make each one. And I would rather sell less and not sacrifice quality. I do have some toys that I released a larger number of because I was able to outsource the production and you can check them out here, these are resin cast and not 3d printed www.karmieh.com/collections/frontpage/products/telos-multiverse
HEY! I loved seeing the process of your work, it's very well documented! thank you so much for sharing it. I also make toys and there are some things that I have keep as tips :) so THANKS!! I wanted to ask you if you use any product at the end of the painting process to protect the paint? I'm using Vallejo varnish, but I'm wondering if you have any better suggestions. By the way, I also loved the packaging. Thanks for the video!
Hey! Thank you so very much for the kind words! I am so happy that you found the video helpful, it really means a lot. As for varnish, I use Vallejo as-well, matt, satin and gloss and I love them.
Thank you so much for your kind words, The sandpaper I am using here is called 3M Softback Sanding Sponge and it comes in different grits. These sponges are available in a range of grades, including microfine (grade 1200 to 1500), ultrafine (grade 800 to 1000), superfine (grade 500 to 600), fine (320 to 400) and medium (grade 120 to 180).
@@randelicious6969 Thank you! That's a cordless glue gun www.diy.com/departments/bosch-cordless-glue-gun-3-6v/539729_BQ.prd but you can use any type of glue gun
The black marker is for marking the areas that need more sanding, I don't know what you mean by the defaults, but if you are asking about the print supports, those are sanded off; for these pieces, I did two passes of sanding and priming, before applying the base colours. hope this helps
Sure here is a list of the equipment I use www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
I love your work, thanks again for such a great informative video. hope I can make my own toys, already have plenty of tools.. I have a question! after you mark your pieces with a black marker after you prime them, do you sand them only by hand? what grit paper you use at that stage?
Thank you so much for the kind words! I wish you all the best in your journey. After I mark those pieces I go and sand them again either by hand or with the Linear sander, I use high grit paper 600-800 and sometimes 1000 depending on the piece, but I highly recommend those 3M sanding sponges they are a game changer, and using them on the Linear sander it just saved me so many hours. I hope this helps!
Yes, I always leave at least one hole open, I usually hide the holes on connecting keys or parts that are overlapped when you glue them, this way you never risk having the toy crack because of all the gas build-up, especially if you keep that piece in the sun or heat.
It's called a linear sander, here is a list of all the equipment, tools and software that I use www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
I don't remember if anyone asked this question before, what I am searching for is imperfections, support remains, print lines and I mark them down with a marker cause it's easier to see when sanding, cause sanding can get really messy. You can also check out my primers video if you would like to lear more about that part. ruclips.net/video/hfXSz8zFFUU/видео.htmlsi=q9tV5cEHUMoIPqZo
It's called a linear sander, here is a list of all the equipment, tools and software that I use www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
often that stickers, and box are harder to do then the actual toy, i assume you use a sticker printer ? which one ? and also how did you made the box ?
Well, isn't that true to a certain point. But, yes, getting high quality stickers and boxes is hard especially in low numbers. For stickers I use Stickermule and for the boxes, those were made in Hong Kong I made about 200 pieces for different style toys that will fit a 5 inches toy.
The sanding tool is called a Linear sander its from a company called Proxxon you can check it out here www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28594.php amz.run/7Kof
I just got a wash machine and I am loving it, as for putting IPA in ultrasonic, I have done that for the past 3 years now and didn't went up in flames, but year if you don't have a well venitlated area I recommend not doing it, I have windows open, air filters running and I am always wearing a mask😷 and not smoking around it 😅
I know you’ve had years of experience in this field, but I’d like to suggest that you wear a mask, even if you’ve already opened the window, and also wear safety glasses. I saw you trying to pry the model off the print bed, and I’m worried the resin might splash into your eyes. I’ve experienced something similar before, though in my case, it was alcohol that had been used to wash resin multiple times. I can’t imagine what would happen if pure resin splashed into my eyes.
Thank you so much for your concern, really means a lot. I do wear a mask and I have glasses on, but when I am filming It's hard to keep track of everything, I film everything on my own and I just forget to keep it, or I might have it on the the first couple of shot and then take it off because it took me like 5 takes to get everything in focus and I am tried and be ou of breath. I know what you mean about resin beating nasty, my hands are obliturated after a session of making toys, even with gloves. Again I really appreciate your kind thoughts for me.
Thank you for your concern, its a small ultrasonic, the temperature doesn't go up higher than 40 dergess Celsius, I have been using this methode for over 4 years now, and I didn't have any incidents, with that said, I n ver leave it without supervision, just make sure to wear a mask and have the room well ventilated.
I always wear a mask, but when filming on your own and making sure everything is in focus while making sure I don't drop something I sometimes forget to put it on for that angle.
Thank you for the kind words! The sandpaper I am using here is called 3M Softback Sanding Sponge and it comes in different grits. These sponges are available in a range of grades, including microfine (grade 1200 to 1500), ultrafine (grade 800 to 1000), superfine (grade 500 to 600), fine (320 to 400) and medium (grade 120 to 180).
![I'm Making my own Designer Toy Line! - [Pt. 1]](/img/1.gif)
Telos is an orphan who lived in many foster homes until one day he decided to run away.
He lived on the streets, he made some friends, lived under bridges, slept in parks on benches, and survived doing petty crimes. And, on a cold winter's night, he died frozen on a bench.
Well, that took a wrong turn for the worse pretty quick. It's a story of a boy grim-reaper - what did you expect?
Death saw something in the boy, and he decided to make him an apprentice. He assigned Ursos as his mentor.
Not as bad as Casper the Friendly Ghost.
@@Karma-wy7xv That's true!
Quiero obtener uno, donde puedo comprarlo???
@@joseeduardogutierrezjara5679 Thank you! 🙏😊 You can order one here www.karmieh.com/products/minima-limited-edition-resin-toy?_pos=1&_sid=8e137e82b&_ss=r
Your toys and videos are top quality. I watched your sculpts on instagram but seeing behind the scenes, how everything is made is a treat. Thank you for showing it!
Thank you so much for the kind words Michal. It really means a lot! your work is beautiful; I love the Alice in Wonderland pieces that you did; these came out so beautiful.
Amazing toy!!! Your workflow and workshop are admirable, as a 15 years resin scale model manufacturer, today I still keep learning from talented people like you. Kind regards from Argentina.
Thank you so much for the kind words 🙌❤️🙏 much love from Transylvania
The way you designed those shoes is incredible. Top work
Thank you so much for the kind words! Those were fun to work on!
Absolutely Incredible work!
Thank you so much for the kind words!
wow its so inspiring
Thank you so very much!
We love this model!
Thank you!
Came for the cool design Sub'd for the care you put into your work. Looking forward to painting with you Sir
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Aha!! Super dope work🎉❤
Thank you so very much!
That’s fantastic!!
Thank you so much for the kind words
WHAT A LEGEND!! Dude. It's so cool to see your process like this!
THANK YOU DUDE!!! Really means a lot, thank you!
Piece of Art ❤
Thank you so much for your kind words!
I watched it carefully, it’s really cool
Thank you so much! I am happy to hear that!
Beautiful
Thank you!
What a beautiful toy!!❤
Thank you, so very much 😊🙏
Awesome work!
Thank you! Cheers!
So cool to see the process
Thank you so very much!
You're on another Level!!,
Lots of love, Thank you so much for the kind words!
Fantastic video.
Very impressive.
I did consider a resin printer but looking at the extra equipment, sundries and supplies required it's really not worth it for me.
I'll probably just buy and paint the odd mini but overall my 3D printing will be for tools, prototypes, mainly storage items in my workshop and spare parts with the odd print in place toy for the kids.
Thank you so much for the kind words, I totally agree, for a resin printer you need a special room for all the extra equipment and IPA and don;t get me started on the smells. FDM printing is way more suitable for a desktop 3d printer, especially if you are not doing this as a prototype studio. My first printer was a Zortrax and I loved that printer, I sold it to a friend of mine 5 years ago and I was pleased to hear that it's still running without any problems.
Amazing work !! Where did you ever find such great little coffins lol did you make them ?
Thank you for the kind words. Yes, when I designed the toy I initially made a couple in the studio but ended up being so much work, I ended up hiring a local company to make custom coffin boxes for me, you can imagine how my studio looked when I received 500 tiny coffins.
Amazing video like a documentery. Super!
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Nice job!!!!!!
Thank you so very much!
Hey there, great stuff! What brand is that small sander, I've never seen anything like it and really need it in my process!
Thank you 🙏❤️🙌 The sanding tool is called a Linear sander its from a company called Proxxon you can check it out here www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28594.php
amz.run/7Kof
@@karmieh awesome, really appreciate that!
Great style man. SUper clean and professional look!
Thank you so much for the kind words!
A piece of advice: you should never use alchohol on a sonic cleaner, that can combust because of the highly flammable properties of the isopropanol mixed with the vibrations of the process by the sonic cleaner. Another thing is you should cure the print first before sealing the holes because if its not well cured on the inside the print will start to generate gases inside and if it doesn't have nowhere to go it can crack some time later. Try curing it in water, the UV light will disperse much better everywhere included inside and so give it a much more uniform cure
Thank you for the advice and your concern, really means a lot 🤗. but I have been using it for about 5 years now, the temperature never goes over 40 degrees it's a small ultrasonic, I have looked into it before using it. The only thing that you need to do is to keep an open window to make sure you have enough fresh air or wear a mask. As for the filling holes, I always levea at least one hole for the gasses to be released, thank you for the tip though. In 8 years of toy design and prototyping I have seen my share of broken cracked or ballooned pieces, so I learned it the hard way. I was actually going to record a video on how to never close your figure totally. As for curing with water Idont know what to say, I have seen some makers do that, I never tried it mysel, the form labs curing booth uses heat while curing depending on what resin you print with. So I am guessing or at least hoping they know their stuff 😅
@@karmieh can you use silicone brushed on Over a sculpture made from magic sculpt, two part epoxy clay?
I'm using Rebound 25 silicone.
I know you can't use sulfur based Clay's, even sealed with brush on silicone.
Won't cure
@@Arnoldman-ep9gw I wish I could help you with that, I have no idea, I stopped moulding and casting about 4 years ago, I know the basic stuff when it comes to moulding and casting.
Sok tahu
damn your work is soo clean! btw what is the sandpaper type that u use when u’re sanding? 3:11
Thank you so much for your kind words, The sandpaper I am using here is called 3M Softback Sanding Sponge and it comes in different grits. These sponges are available in a range of grades, including microfine (grade 1200 to 1500), ultrafine (grade 800 to 1000), superfine (grade 500 to 600), fine (320 to 400) and medium (grade 120 to 180).
Top Notch, EVERYTHING1
Thank you so much 😍
Meeting Death is better than trying to ignore it!
"Your Zeal has to be greater than your fear."
Ursos Al-Sapientia
Hello, I find your work amazing and very clean. I was wondering what was the reference of your airbrush spray booth please? I'd love to see a video of your set up he is incredible !
Thank you so much for your kind words, for airbrush I used two airbrushes both from Harder & Steenbeck an Infinity and an Ultra, as for the spray booth, its from a company in the UK called Benchvent, this is the one that I got, I have had this booth for about 4 years now and it's been just fantastic.
Amazing work
Thank you!
Love it! 😍
Thank you lovely! 😍🥰
This video is so great, and that work is so beautiful, now i want to make toys too! :O
Thank you so very much for the kind words! You should start!!
thanks for sharing this experience dude
god speedand good luck to you !
Thank you so much dude! Means a lot!!
Hi! Very nice video and great detailed work. One question, where can I buy the oscillating tool that you use for sanding? I've looked everywhere and can't find a similar tool. Thanks!
Thank you so much for your kind words. It's called a mini linear sander made by a company called Proxxon. I made a list with the equipment that I use. www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
Can u share me what type of sealer do you use after painting?
Sure thing, I use sealers from Vallejo, make sure to get the Vallejo Polyurethane Varnish, it come in Ultramatt, Matt, Satin and Glossy
Love thissss❤. I would like to know what primer are you using?
Thank you so very much, sure thing I made a video about primer ruclips.net/video/hfXSz8zFFUU/видео.htmlsi=0eCaYsq5yoYlC927
i like the quality you achieved, quite time demanding but worth it, which printer did you used for?
Thank you so much for the kind words, in this video I am using the Form 3 from formlabs, I made a blog entry with the list of equipment that I use, if you would like to check them out. www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
Love how you document your process and your work is so inspiring
Thank you so much! Yes, I used the Form cure to UV all my pieces, but to be honest, it's too expensive for that money. You can get a 3d printer from Anycubic, and they released the Anycubic Wash & Cure Max Machine which washes and cures your pieces.
this is honestly bad ass. what sort of paints are you useing?
Thank you so very much for the kind words, I am using MR Surfacer for the primer and Tamiya flat black XF-1 and Tamiya Red XF-7 and I think for the white I am using either Tamiya or Mr hobby Glossy, I mix a big bottle to make easier for airbrushing. I promise to make a video only with the paints that I use.
I love your work!
Thank you so much for the kind words ☺️❤️🙏
This is the third video of yours that I've watch in a row, and WOW! Your designs are incredibles! Once you're done painting the models, do you use some kind of protective top coat? I'm new to 3d printing and would love product recommendations from resins to primers and paints. Either way, thank you for sharing your artistic process with us! 😊
Thank you so much for the kind words. Really means a great deal. Yes, I seal my figures with a sealer from Vallejo acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/auxiliaries-model/acrylic-matt-spray-varnish-28531/ Matt, Satin or glossy depending on what type of material I am going for.
@@karmieh Thank you! I will definitely give it a try! :)
Hi, firstly I just wanted to say how much I love the production of your videos. I wanted to ask if you’ve settled on the 3m ultra fine pads which I believe is what the red ones are after trying the other grades? Those things are so expensive for a box trust I don’t want to waste money on a box full that are either too fine or too corse. Thanks for your help. Van
Thank you so much for the kind words! Yes, i love using the 3M I start with the red Fine then blue (Superfine) I do have the next two which are Ultra fine and Macro fine, which I rarely use, cause usually those are if you are doing glass domes or pieces that need to be super shiny. I think if you get the red ones 3M Fine should be more than enough.
How do u clean the model after sanding them ? 🤔🤔🤔
That's a very good question, cause I haven't recorded that part for any of my toy design projects, I just use warm water and dishwashing soap with toothbrush, manually, I tried to washing them in the ultrasonic but it ended up leaving stains so I went back to manually washing each part. I am editing a new video in which I show that process as-well. Hope this helps.
@ thank you very much, crazy work 🔥
@@dalifilms1264 Yes, crazy work indeed. You are welcome!
I loved it. Could you tell me what kind of electric sandpaper you used to file the pieces? Please, my hands are sore, hahaha
Thank you! Sure thing, it's called a linear sander, from a company called Proxxon. I went ahead and made a list of the equipment I use in my studio, feel free to check it out. www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
Hello, can I ask the what kind of color you use to draw by brush ? I drew with acrylic and the result looks so bad 😢
I use Tamiya, Mr Hobby Aqueous and Vallejo for airbrushing and hand painting. With Tamiya you have to add thick coats and be confident and let it dry before adding another, with vallejo if you want the result to come out clean you need to use thin layers and multiple ones this way you won't see the brush lines, Hope this helps,
Thank you, thank you so much, you save my life 😁
I am happy I could help 🙏🥰
Tried checking your course website but it seems to be down right now.
Thank you so much! Yeah it was down for a day or so, thank you for letting me know. I am currently working on a course on how to design a toy from sketch to final product, I am hoping to have tot have it ready soon. Meanwhile, I do offer one on one mentoring on my Patreon on the Scholar level. Or on my website oasim.com/l/one-on-one if you have any questions please let me know.
So much work for each piece. Is there a reason you aren't doing master sculpt and then molds to recast perfect duplicates?
Yes, well one of the reasons is that I am not great at moulding or casting, and to get good casts you need a pressure pot, and you need to know what you are doing. I used to cast and mould and it takes a lot of time to learn to cast clean pieces and at one point I decided that I want to be a good designer and sculptor and that I can't do everything, so I focused on what I can do best, most of the pieces I do in-house are low runa or one offs so it works out ok for me.
Great stuff. I'm curious. You place alot of faith in the 3D printer to get clean, flaw free prints. Do you get alot if rejects and any reason not to do one good print ,prep and sand etc. Then RTV mold that clean one compared to doing repeatedly finish processing numerous 3d prints?
Thank you, well I don't always get clean prints, sometimes I need to re-print but since I have bought the Form 3 there have been fewer cases. As for production if my run is under 25 piece I make them all in house using the 3d printer, I used to mould and cast but it's very time consuming and you have to put in the time to get good at it. And I decided that I would rather spend my time learning how to be a better sculptor and toy designer then moulder and caster. At the end of the day there is only 24 hours in one day. If I release a toy that is over the 25 pieces then I usually hire a caster to mould and cast them for me, if the run is small I would ask to be cast, cleaned and primed and I will paint them but if the run is over 100 pieces then I would hire a small shop to take care of moulding casting, painting and foam cutting so the whole production. Hope this answers your question.
Can you share information on the little sander you used ?
Sure thing, here is a link amzn.to/3OIipQN
And you will also need this cause you can't just plug in the drill without this amzn.to/3OGkZH6
You inspired me to create this video, I hope you find it helpful. ruclips.net/video/RqwFFt_HPjc/видео.htmlsi=Bknrj5LpGGArYwFA
Hi! Love your videos. Do you have courses you can share with us aspiring to be a toy designer?
Thank you so much for the kind words. I am currently working on a course on how to design a toy from sketch to final product, I am hoping to have it ready soon. Meanwhile, I do offer one on one mentoring on my Patreon on the Scholar level. Or on my website oasim.com/l/one-on-one if you have any questions please let me know.
I would love to know the brand of that turntable! I have been looking for one with such a smooth rotation without jitters.
The turntable that I am using is called Foldio 360 I have been using this for almost 8 years now orangemonkie.com/products/foldio360-turntable
How is your hand paint sticks to it so cleanly? Do you thin out your paints? Is lacquare paints or acryllic water based? Thanks in advance. :)
Well, thank you! For airbrush, I def have to thin the paints out usually 1 part paint 2 or three parts thinner depending on the pigment. As for hand-painting, I don't thin out the pain, I soak the brush into some thinner and apply paint straight from the jar. As for paints I mostly use acrylic paints.
To anyone watching this, please never use IPA with a ultrasonic cleaner is really dangerous and you ca burn your house.
Thank you so much for your concern. Yes, IPA is dangerous, make sure you have proper ventilation whenever you are handling any IPA, Acetone or any other chemical substances. This is why lately lots of other non flammable chemicals are used for washing 3d printed parts. Formlabes has a washing solution that works great formlabs.com/eu/store/post-processing/resin-washing-solution/?srsltid=AfmBOopW6GSi7q3dfeyGhsi1KJsaUKIOXFfa3IyTj7Kta9MmgeiMGuIe and also other companies are making washing solutions phrozen3d.com/products/phrozen-wash-resin-cleaner
I was just going to say this. Never use IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner. It can combust and start a fire.
Incredible work! Do you have links to all the equipment you use? Which 3D printer do you use etc.
I went ahead and just created one for you! If I missed anything let me know and I will update it.
@karmieh Wow! Thank you. I really appreciate you taking the time to do that. You're art and process has inspired me to start printing and making figures myself.
@@Savannah_Ross Thank you so much for your kind words! Wishing you all the best in your journey, and be patient with yourself, everything takes time.
@@Savannah_Ross Did I forget to share the link www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
@karmieh All good. Haha I went and found it on the website. Thank you for dropping it here too.
It is a beautiful and very elaborate work. It would be necessary to evaluate whether it is better to give up something of quality in favor of the price, $250 is prohibitive for many pockets.
Thank you so much for the kind words, Yes, I totally understand, to have the price lower I need to produce a minimum quantity of 200-300 pieces and that works for some toys but my releases are constrained to 10 - 20 pieces and making those in a factory or a shop won't make the piece cheaper, belive it or not I make no profit when selling these, the resin from Formlabs is expensive, the paints that I use are expensive as-well and I don't even factor in the time it takes to make each one. And I would rather sell less and not sacrifice quality. I do have some toys that I released a larger number of because I was able to outsource the production and you can check them out here, these are resin cast and not 3d printed www.karmieh.com/collections/frontpage/products/telos-multiverse
Where did you get the coffin packing box?
Those were custom made for the 5 Inches Telos figure I released a while ago www.karmieh.com/collections/frontpage/products/telos-multiverse
did you copyright these toys before making/selling? To prevent others from copying you?
Yes. I do, each original design is registered with the European Union Intellectual Property Rights Office (EUIPO)
HEY! I loved seeing the process of your work, it's very well documented! thank you so much for sharing it. I also make toys and there are some things that I have keep as tips :) so THANKS!!
I wanted to ask you if you use any product at the end of the painting process to protect the paint? I'm using Vallejo varnish, but I'm wondering if you have any better suggestions.
By the way, I also loved the packaging.
Thanks for the video!
Hey! Thank you so very much for the kind words! I am so happy that you found the video helpful, it really means a lot.
As for varnish, I use Vallejo as-well, matt, satin and gloss and I love them.
may i ask where the box comes from?? did you also make that yourself? That packaging/stickers is the cherry on top!
I designed those boxes, but I had them made at a company that specialises in this. Thank you, glad you like how it came out!
damn your work is soo clean! btw what is the sandpaper type that u use when u’re sanding?
Thank you so much for your kind words, The sandpaper I am using here is called 3M Softback Sanding Sponge and it comes in different grits. These sponges are available in a range of grades, including microfine (grade 1200 to 1500), ultrafine (grade 800 to 1000), superfine (grade 500 to 600), fine (320 to 400) and medium (grade 120 to 180).
Awesome video man! Love your work! Just to piggy back on this comment what’s the machine you glue the sand paper to ?
@@randelicious6969 Thank you! That's a cordless glue gun www.diy.com/departments/bosch-cordless-glue-gun-3-6v/539729_BQ.prd but you can use any type of glue gun
What's the name of the song?
Beautiful toy!
Thank you, the song is called Time is Slowing down you can find it here taketones.com/track/time-is-slowing-down
What is that black marker for? How are the defaults fixed?
The black marker is for marking the areas that need more sanding, I don't know what you mean by the defaults, but if you are asking about the print supports, those are sanded off; for these pieces, I did two passes of sanding and priming, before applying the base colours. hope this helps
@@karmieh Yes, thanks a lot! I'm trying to learn the whole process
eline sağlık usta
Thank you!
Whats the tool you’re using to sand?
Sure here is a list of the equipment I use www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
I love your work, thanks again for such a great informative video. hope I can make my own toys, already have plenty of tools..
I have a question! after you mark your pieces with a black marker after you prime them, do you sand them only by hand? what grit paper you use at that stage?
Thank you so much for the kind words! I wish you all the best in your journey. After I mark those pieces I go and sand them again either by hand or with the Linear sander, I use high grit paper 600-800 and sometimes 1000 depending on the piece, but I highly recommend those 3M sanding sponges they are a game changer, and using them on the Linear sander it just saved me so many hours. I hope this helps!
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Do you always vent the holes right away?
I'm afraid mine might explode in few days, cause usually it's not cured that fast inside.
Yes, I always leave at least one hole open, I usually hide the holes on connecting keys or parts that are overlapped when you glue them, this way you never risk having the toy crack because of all the gas build-up, especially if you keep that piece in the sun or heat.
Подскажите а что за инструмент, маленькая вибро машинка ?
It's called a linear sander, here is a list of all the equipment, tools and software that I use www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
What’s that sanding machine called?
The sanding tool is called a Linear sander it is from a company called Proxxon you can check it out here www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28594.php
@@karmieh Thanks good sir!
When you started to lace shoes I was like “wow this is serious” :) Love your work. Beautiful.
what the name of machine you use when sanding
It's called a mini linear sander the one I have is from a company called Proxxon.
hiii idk you still reply or not hahaha, but i want to ask when you check each piece what actually you searching for? and what is the pen mark for?
I don't remember if anyone asked this question before, what I am searching for is imperfections, support remains, print lines and I mark them down with a marker cause it's easier to see when sanding, cause sanding can get really messy. You can also check out my primers video if you would like to lear more about that part. ruclips.net/video/hfXSz8zFFUU/видео.htmlsi=q9tV5cEHUMoIPqZo
ahhh okayy okayy thank you so much, i'll watch it
@@nikoneko2119 Happy to help!
What is the tool that you used for the sanding?
It's called a linear sander, here is a list of all the equipment, tools and software that I use www.karmieh.com/blogs/toy-designer/essential-equipment-guide-for-designer-toy-making-complete-checklist-2024
often that stickers, and box are harder to do then the actual toy,
i assume you use a sticker printer ?
which one ?
and also how did you made the box ?
Well, isn't that true to a certain point. But, yes, getting high quality stickers and boxes is hard especially in low numbers. For stickers I use Stickermule and for the boxes, those were made in Hong Kong I made about 200 pieces for different style toys that will fit a 5 inches toy.
Very cool! 🖤🖤🖤
Thank you!
Hi, my friend, great video.😻 What kind of grinding machine do you have for processing?
The sanding tool is called a Linear sander its from a company called Proxxon you can check it out here www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28594.php
amz.run/7Kof
How much does one of these figures cost?
This piece was released as a pre-order for $199 plus shipping
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I have an ultrasonic cleaner and a wash and cure machine, but the idea of putting something combustable in the ultrasonic scares the crap out of me.
I just got a wash machine and I am loving it, as for putting IPA in ultrasonic, I have done that for the past 3 years now and didn't went up in flames, but year if you don't have a well venitlated area I recommend not doing it, I have windows open, air filters running and I am always wearing a mask😷 and not smoking around it 😅
I know you’ve had years of experience in this field, but I’d like to suggest that you wear a mask, even if you’ve already opened the window, and also wear safety glasses. I saw you trying to pry the model off the print bed, and I’m worried the resin might splash into your eyes. I’ve experienced something similar before, though in my case, it was alcohol that had been used to wash resin multiple times. I can’t imagine what would happen if pure resin splashed into my eyes.
Thank you so much for your concern, really means a lot. I do wear a mask and I have glasses on, but when I am filming It's hard to keep track of everything, I film everything on my own and I just forget to keep it, or I might have it on the the first couple of shot and then take it off because it took me like 5 takes to get everything in focus and I am tried and be ou of breath. I know what you mean about resin beating nasty, my hands are obliturated after a session of making toys, even with gloves. Again I really appreciate your kind thoughts for me.
cool
Thank you so very much!
beautifull
Thank you so very much!
I don't believe it's a safe practice to fill your hot ultrasonic tub with isopropyl alcohol.
Thank you for your concern, its a small ultrasonic, the temperature doesn't go up higher than 40 dergess Celsius, I have been using this methode for over 4 years now, and I didn't have any incidents, with that said, I n ver leave it without supervision, just make sure to wear a mask and have the room well ventilated.
Wow, no mask
I always wear a mask, but when filming on your own and making sure everything is in focus while making sure I don't drop something I sometimes forget to put it on for that angle.
i'd call that a figurine, not a toy.
Cheers! Yeah, I agree. But in the niche that I work in collectors call them Designer Toys or Art Toys!
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"toys"
Yeah, well Designer Toys, Art Toys, Collectibles, statuettes, resin figurines, depending on how you roll!
i can see this business failing
Thank you for the insight...
damn your work is soo clean! btw what is the sandpaper type that u use when u’re sanding? 3:11
Thank you for the kind words! The sandpaper I am using here is called 3M Softback Sanding Sponge and it comes in different grits. These sponges are available in a range of grades, including microfine (grade 1200 to 1500), ultrafine (grade 800 to 1000), superfine (grade 500 to 600), fine (320 to 400) and medium (grade 120 to 180).