Thank you for this video. I found that the springs where the buttons push in were out of sync so the metal fork could not lower into place. A simple adjustment to the spring and buttons fixed the problem. The hardest part was getting the white button with the spring to stay in the open clip area while putting the lid back on. The white button finally stayed in place long enough for me to clip the lid back on and it worked like new. Saved $70!!!!
Nice video, if you go on diagnostic mood and put the washer on spin cycle it will find out if you have bad door lock or bad control board , it will not spin fully you have bad door lock,if goes on full spin you have bad board ,
Thanks, I was in the same spot as you. Luckily I saw your video. One wire from the coil was separated from its terminal. I disassembled the parts so I could unwind one coil, scrape off the insulation and solder the connection. Assembled the unit and it worked. The clue to me was that the 110v at P2 did not change when the door was closed. Charlie
Thank you very much this video, you just help me to fix my machine and save some money I thought it going to be much difficult but it not !!! Thanks again.
thanks. BTW this video shows door lock assembly, at the beginning of the video you can see door lock two holes and two screws holes at its left. E41 is "controller board thinks door switch is open"
Had a problem with the same assembly 2 hours ago. Didn't want to spin. I opened the assembly and gently cleaned the contactors. Put it back and everything run fine now.
Thanks, great video! I have the same question as the others. Does 1.3 ohms mean that the door mechanism is defective? Did you order and then replace the door lock mechanism or is there a way to clean off the corrosion?
What is the piece you're doing the tests to? Is that the door lock assembly? Never mind I just finished the video and saw that it was. What did you do to fix the problem then? Clean off the corrosion or order a new mechanism?
What if replacing it doesn't fix the drain and spin cycle. And if you think the drain pump dirty stuck or broken that doesn't make any sense because it drains and spins in the wash cycle. Also there a video to drain and spin when it won't do it on its own. That works but in not doing that every time. So to fix do you think the new door lock is faulty and order another one or something else?
I have this problem it tells me e41 and it won't start and makes a loud beep and says pause on my panel . I don't know if is the door or the panel any suggestions please.
I have the same problem. What was your solution? Can you help me please. I changed the door lock cause it ripped off when the door was forced open during spin cycle probably cause the door lock mechanism gets week throughout the wash cycle from the research I have done. But I changed it and washer still wont start and I get the error code E41. Please help...
Mine will lock and immediately unlock door. I replaced lock and both Boards and it will not lock up. Door is ok and putting the door plunger in the lock didn’t make any difference. Any ideas. Tks
I'm getting error code E41. I called a few technicians and they say I need a new control board. I have a question when I try to start the washer on the right side where it displays door lock, wash, spin, etc all the green LED lights light up except the door lock LED light. Do you think the door lock needs to be replaced and not the control board?
Thank you for this video. I found that the springs where the buttons push in were out of sync so the metal fork could not lower into place. A simple adjustment to the spring and buttons fixed the problem. The hardest part was getting the white button with the spring to stay in the open clip area while putting the lid back on. The white button finally stayed in place long enough for me to clip the lid back on and it worked like new. Saved $70!!!!
Nice video, if you go on diagnostic mood and put the washer on spin cycle it will find out if you have bad door lock or bad control board , it will not spin fully you have bad door lock,if goes on full spin you have bad board ,
How do you go on diagnostic mode?
Thanks, I was in the same spot as you. Luckily I saw your video. One wire from the coil was separated from its terminal. I disassembled the parts so I could unwind one coil, scrape off the insulation and solder the connection. Assembled the unit and it worked. The clue to me was that the 110v at P2 did not change when the door was closed. Charlie
This is exactly what I did!! I probably should have explained it better in the video. I figured it was common sense at that point.
Well at this point ... I'm glad I read this comment lol thanks.
Thank you very much this video, you just help me to fix my machine and save some money I thought it going to be much difficult but it not !!!
Thanks again.
We have a nice collection of Frigidaire control boards that all turned out to be the latch. Ah, memories.
thanks. BTW this video shows door lock assembly, at the beginning of the video you can see door lock two holes and two screws holes at its left. E41 is "controller board thinks door switch is open"
Had a problem with the same assembly 2 hours ago. Didn't want to spin. I opened the assembly and gently cleaned the contactors. Put it back and everything run fine now.
Do you have a video showing how to replace the door switch?
3 or 4 on RUclips
Thanks alot its help me alot
Thanks, great video! I have the same question as the others. Does 1.3 ohms mean that the door mechanism is defective? Did you order and then replace the door lock mechanism or is there a way to clean off the corrosion?
What is the piece you're doing the tests to? Is that the door lock assembly?
Never mind I just finished the video and saw that it was. What did you do to fix the problem then? Clean off the corrosion or order a new mechanism?
this is door lock assembly, at the beginning of the video you can see door lock two holes and two screws holes at its left.
Robin Liljenquist do you end up fixing the washer. I have code e41 also. Do is not locking
@@johnunderwood3132
Did you find a fix for it? Cause I'm having same issue brought a new door latch 3 days later did the same thing.
What if replacing it doesn't fix the drain and spin cycle. And if you think the drain pump dirty stuck or broken that doesn't make any sense because it drains and spins in the wash cycle. Also there a video to drain and spin when it won't do it on its own. That works but in not doing that every time. So to fix do you think the new door lock is faulty and order another one or something else?
I have this problem it tells me e41 and it won't start and makes a loud beep and says pause on my panel . I don't know if is the door or the panel any suggestions please.
I have the same problem. What was your solution? Can you help me please. I changed the door lock cause it ripped off when the door was forced open during spin cycle probably cause the door lock mechanism gets week throughout the wash cycle from the research I have done. But I changed it and washer still wont start and I get the error code E41. Please help...
@@FogataMexicana
Did you find a fix? Cause I'm having the same issue even after buying a new door assembly.
Mine will lock and immediately unlock door. I replaced lock and both Boards and it will not lock up. Door is ok and putting the door plunger in the lock didn’t make any difference. Any ideas. Tks
I'm getting error code E41. I called a few technicians and they say I need a new control board. I have a question when I try to start the washer on the right side where it displays door lock, wash, spin, etc all the green LED lights light up except the door lock LED light. Do you think the door lock needs to be replaced and not the control board?
My door switch was the problem not the control board. It very well could be a door switch issue you are facing as well.
Very good information I just found an error E41 but the PTC measured 1250 ohms that's mean is defective?
I'm have the same what did u do to fix it?
It's same cofe
+Debbie lynn I changed the whole switch and then it worked fine.
Okey thank you
thanks for heading me in what might be the right direction but what was the solution?
I soldered the broken wire coming off the coil and it worked like a charm.
So I have the same question. Did you order and then replace the door lock mechanism or just clean off the corrosion?
So did you clean of the corrosion? Did it work?
I had the same error code and it was fixed replacing the door mechanism seen on this Video (wax motor)
Ok,I have DR code showing,and I already changed the lock,and nothing changed that means I have a bad control board???
so is the 2nd 1.3k ohm is the correct reading?
hey guys i replacer control board and lock swithch and mine is still stuck on (ready) whats next... how do i do like a hard reset... any tips
i tested mine and it was 1.86 at the 20k setting. what does that mean
I'm sorry I never experienced a problem to the extent you are. Maybe someone else out there has.