Convenient edit leaving out the struggle of getting those underneath bolts removed... wish I could just edit it out like this vid...it's a God damn nightmare! :(
Ok I just changed it out today. BTW, the charging system warning light never turned on even with a dead alternator. No low voltage DTC codes were stored in the computer either. So one day you drive along and your battery dies without warning. Thank you Honda. So here are my observations: 1) Joe forgot to mention that you will need to remove the coolant bottle bracket to be able to get the alternator out. It's removed in the video if you look but not pointed out. Don't try to shimmy out the alternator without removing the bracket. Trust me it won't fit and you will scrape the paint on the chassis trying. 2-10mm bolts hold the bracket down. Easy peasy. 2) If you never did this leave yourself about 3 hours. You are going to need a lot of time getting the right combination of sockets for the 2 lower bolts. They were harder to put on than take off. Also if you are anal like me about using a torque wrench it will take time finding sockets to fit. 3) If you want to keep the cable clamp intact that's on the alternator simply unscrew the nut that holds the bracket to the alternator. Likely any alternator you buy is not going to have that bracket anyway so just reuse your old one. It's a 6 or 8mm nut I forget which. Comes off very easy. 4) Torque specs: POS batt terminal 8 NM, alternator bolts 22 NM, Idler pulley bolts 45 NM. 5) Go ahead and remove the radiator fan. 2 bolts on top and it lifts up. Very easy to remove and it will save your knuckles. 6) Check the belt pulley on the alternator if you buy a rebuilt unit. The one I got from Napa had the pulley nicked where the belt sits. Over time it would have worn out the belt so make sure the surfaces are smooth. I wound up using a small file to get it smooth. This was so much easier to do on my 02 Accord. Oh well, at least there is no power steering pump to deal with on the CRV.
Thank you so much for posting this detailed video! It gave me the confidence to replace the alternator and belt myself, and saved me over $800!!! The interlocking wrench tip is priceless! You are awesome! Keep up the great work! 😊
Yes. I actually replaced the alternator with a high output unit with a smaller pulley and it required a new belt that was designed for a while different vehicle.
Crazy thing is I have a 2012 honda crv and I was just searching to see the easiest way to pull the alternator out first video i check out and I so happened to have a ces 390 alt too wow what a coincidence
Joe, thanks so much for this detailed video. It saved me tons of time. One difference on my alternator was that the tie down for the power cable was not a snap in strap. Mine had a metal strap that attached to a stud on the alternator with a nut. Thanks again - keep these vids coming
I would definitely replace the spark plugs. The serpentine belt is more dependent on its condition when inspected visually. After 110k miles it probably needs replacement and if you’d like to be preventative you can replace it regardless of its exact condition. Usually the deciding factor for a serpentine belt replacement is how many cracks can be seen in the ribs of the belt as well as how deep those cracks go into the belt material. For example if there are numerous cracks and they are almost the full depth of the belt material it’s time to replace.
John Williams Both of these jobs are basic mechanics jobs that any private mechanic can do correctly. If you’d like to avoid the dealerships premium labor rates, a trusted private mechanic can do these no problem.
I think I did it from above. I remember it being tricky. If you’re having a hard time you can always take the splash shield off that’s behind that tire and see what the access is.
:44 - 1:44 shows how to release the tension o the belt for removal. The only part that is not shown (but is explained verbally) is taking the belt off the top pulley. You should note the Belt routing before removal, and maybe draw a diagram so you know how it gets routed when it’s reinstalled.
@@Tablesaw818 Fair enough. Although is no special trick to this belt replacement once the tensioner is explained. I should have been more clear on that point I guess.
I just added an additional ground and power lead to the battery. My logic was that the OEM circuits can still go through the battery sensor and the audio system can draw power directly from the battery.
![FendiDa Rappa - Clock Dat ft. Shamar Marco [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3NBU8KHdxYY/mqdefault.jpg)
Convenient edit leaving out the struggle of getting those underneath bolts removed... wish I could just edit it out like this vid...it's a God damn nightmare! :(
This honda crv generation is way easy to replace the alternator then the previous ones 2011-2000s.
Thanks for your help .... clear explanations and good advice.
Ok I just changed it out today. BTW, the charging system warning light never turned on even with a dead alternator. No low voltage DTC codes were stored in the computer either. So one day you drive along and your battery dies without warning. Thank you Honda.
So here are my observations:
1) Joe forgot to mention that you will need to remove the coolant bottle bracket to be able to get the alternator out. It's removed in the video if you look but not pointed out. Don't try to shimmy out the alternator without removing the bracket. Trust me it won't fit and you will scrape the paint on the chassis trying. 2-10mm bolts hold the bracket down. Easy peasy.
2) If you never did this leave yourself about 3 hours. You are going to need a lot of time getting the right combination of sockets for the 2 lower bolts. They were harder to put on than take off. Also if you are anal like me about using a torque wrench it will take time finding sockets to fit.
3) If you want to keep the cable clamp intact that's on the alternator simply unscrew the nut that holds the bracket to the alternator. Likely any alternator you buy is not going to have that bracket anyway so just reuse your old one. It's a 6 or 8mm nut I forget which. Comes off very easy.
4) Torque specs: POS batt terminal 8 NM, alternator bolts 22 NM, Idler pulley bolts 45 NM.
5) Go ahead and remove the radiator fan. 2 bolts on top and it lifts up. Very easy to remove and it will save your knuckles.
6) Check the belt pulley on the alternator if you buy a rebuilt unit. The one I got from Napa had the pulley nicked where the belt sits. Over time it would have worn out the belt so make sure the surfaces are smooth. I wound up using a small file to get it smooth.
This was so much easier to do on my 02 Accord. Oh well, at least there is no power steering pump to deal with on the CRV.
Thank you so much for posting this detailed video! It gave me the confidence to replace the alternator and belt myself, and saved me over $800!!! The interlocking wrench tip is priceless! You are awesome! Keep up the great work! 😊
Nice vide. Maybe the serpentine could be replaced since you have already loosened it?
Yes. I actually replaced the alternator with a high output unit with a smaller pulley and it required a new belt that was designed for a while different vehicle.
Well done, thanks man
good informative stuff.
"Tough, tough day today," is my new favorite clean curse word.
Good job, no nonsense.
I can't thank you enough. This is exactly what I needed. Thanks again for posting this!!!
Thanks I needed this. My alternator just died on my 2012.
Thanks Joe! Your video made my life SO much easier. Great explanations and tips. I was able to complete the job much faster! You do great work.
Thanks for the help and tips. I was able to get it out with only removing the coolant bottle and it's bracket. 1 1/2 hours with limited tools!
Crazy thing is I have a 2012 honda crv and I was just searching to see the easiest way to pull the alternator out first video i check out and I so happened to have a ces 390 alt too wow what a coincidence
Thank you for your time and consideration of sharing and explaining as u went along!
Thank u very much, your video is very helpful,
The harness bracket that was broken comes off after the 8mm nut comes off.
Question. How the heck is the orange electrical plug removed? Mine is frozen.
Just squeeze the little tab and pull it out.
You just saved me from buying a serpentine belt tool. Thanks!
Awesome! Glad this helped you.
Joe, thanks so much for this detailed video. It saved me tons of time. One difference on my alternator was that the tie down for the power cable was not a snap in strap. Mine had a metal strap that attached to a stud on the alternator with a nut. Thanks again - keep these vids coming
So glad this helped you. Thanks for your feedback!
this helped so much! thank you!
Thanks for your feedback. So glad it was helpful.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Very much so - knocked it out in less than hour after memorizing your detailed video. Thanks again!
Hi, I have a 2013 CRV with 111,000 miles. The serpentine belt and spark plugs are original. Do you think I should replace them?
I would definitely replace the spark plugs. The serpentine belt is more dependent on its condition when inspected visually. After 110k miles it probably needs replacement and if you’d like to be preventative you can replace it regardless of its exact condition.
Usually the deciding factor for a serpentine belt replacement is how many cracks can be seen in the ribs of the belt as well as how deep those cracks go into the belt material. For example if there are numerous cracks and they are almost the full depth of the belt material it’s time to replace.
Joe S. Ok, thank you. I will take a look at the serpentine belt. I’m probably going to have it done at the dealership.
John Williams Both of these jobs are basic mechanics jobs that any private mechanic can do correctly. If you’d like to avoid the dealerships premium labor rates, a trusted private mechanic can do these no problem.
Hey Joe! Thanks for the video! Quick question, is a 14mm wrench, and 12mm deep socket all that is needed?
Did you need to come from the side near the wheel to get the belt on, or did you do it all from the hood?
I think I did it from above. I remember it being tricky.
If you’re having a hard time you can always take the splash shield off that’s behind that tire and see what the access is.
The title is misleading. Should have been titled "How to remove an alternator" because that is all that you showed us.
:44 - 1:44 shows how to release the tension o the belt for removal. The only part that is not shown (but is explained verbally) is taking the belt off the top pulley.
You should note the Belt routing before removal, and maybe draw a diagram so you know how it gets routed when it’s reinstalled.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY “Replacement” in the title implies you are going to show us how to put it back in.
@@Tablesaw818 Fair enough. Although is no special trick to this belt replacement once the tensioner is explained. I should have been more clear on that point I guess.
How did you get around the ELD voltage regulator issue?
I just added an additional ground and power lead to the battery. My logic was that the OEM circuits can still go through the battery sensor and the audio system can draw power directly from the battery.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY were you able to increase your voltage without bypassing the ELD?
@@sbb526 I didn’t increase voltage. Only current.
You forgot to mention the engine size??
Sorry. It’s a 2.4L. I thought it only came with that engine. My mistake.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY My bad, just found out 2.4 is the only engine for that model. Thanks.