2013 Honda CR-V 2.4 - Drive Belt Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 11 фев 2023
- Learn how to replace the drive belt on this Honda vehicle.
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There was one thing I forgot to mention in this video. BEFORE BELT REMOVAL: Check the indicator mark with the arrow on the tensioner assembly on the body for excessive movement/flutter with engine running with the old belt. If the tensioner moves too much then it is worn out. Also some tensioner assemblies will have similar indicator wear marks with a specified range and so the tensioner should be within that range for proper operation. Otherwise, the tensioner is bad and needs to be replaced.
Also I read, once the old belt is off, use the tensioner tool and pull back on the tensioner (like you would to remove tension on an old belt). If the tensioner makes noise or does not move smoothly, then it needs replacing.
@rgraz4929 Correct. If the tensioner is seized or binds up or has excessive side to side play/movement while attempting to cycle the tensioner assembly with the belt off then replacement is necessary/required. Unfortunately, I probably won't be showing a video on a tensioner replacement for this specific CR-V as the customer sold this vehicle recently and bought something else.
Great video! Very easy to follow. Bonus points for the cat.
You are the most informative to-the-point video I've seen yet thank you
That was a GREAT video. "Just a little bit cold like minus 3 or minus 4" LMAO.
Thanks for the video.
Good video
Of course, what would be a Honda CRV without the startup rattle?
Got the best replaced and thanks! The tool would be perfect but at $75 I opted to struggle instead. AutoZone has a loaner kit for serpentine belt removal but for whatever reason it does not have the 14mm socket... just crazy. Then I thought a 45 degree angle box end wrench and slip a pipe over it for leverage, neither Lowes or Home Depot have it. Finally ended up using a 12 point wrench and used another wrench linked to it as leverage. Finally got it on. The old pully is stretched so getting the new one on was like fitting a fat woman into a slim dress. Lol
LOL 😆 well glad you got her done ✔ 👏
I remember I had that tool because back in the day I used to work on a lot of Hondas with those strong tensioners and so I didn't have the time to fool around with the conventional method and so I needed something that would help me do those belts faster and more efficiently.
Just did my '13 CRV belt. It was easier than I thought because I followed your technique in partially putting the belt on the idler and tensioner and working it on. With the old OEM belt, the tensioner indicator arrow was all the way on the right of the shallow rectangle and with the new belt, the arrow is now on the left edge of the deep rectangle. Also, my tensioner pully sounded exactly like this one. At very slow idle speeds it growls or burps for a half of second- when rolling to a stop or rolling out of a stop or putting on headlights/AC at a traffic light. But when driving only slightly faster, I never hear it. Does that sound like a tensioner?Thank you!
Interesting. I'm glad I could help you out. Those tensioners like to manifest themselves so you don't normally hear them until it's really bad or until you inspect them with the belt off.
@@moosemobileautorepair Thanks! I thought for sure that burp sound would go away once I put on a new belt because I know stretched belts can sometimes cause tensioner rattle, but it's still there. I only hear the "burp" when I'm going very slow to and from a stop or when I put on the headlights when in drive at a traffic light. Thanks!!
I would say the original factory belt is really durable my 2012 crv got 100k still in good condition.
Sure. They can go an awfully long time, however it's not recommended to keep driving with old belts especially 10+ years. Some manufacturer's suggest periodic inspections and replacement at set intervals to prevent any possible breakdowns.
Newer EPDM style belts need to be inspected differently than their predecessor neoprene belts. Because of that EPDM belts are resistant to cracking and so they may never crack if any and so they need to be inspected for material wear or rib wear in between the ribs using a special tool to inspect them.
belts are cheap and easy to replace. I just replace them every 60k together with the pcv valve. no need to check wear, or cracks or wait until it snaps to replace it.
I work on customer's vehicles so they won't just replace parts just like that unless there is something wrong with it. It's not like working on your own personal vehicles. Customer's typically won't replace things if there's nothing wrong with it. You always have to inspect things for wear and/or damage as it may be key indicators of other problems/issues.
If you wait until the belt snaps that can cause other problems like damage the front crank seal behind the crank pulley. I have seen that before on some vehicles I have worked on in the past where the belt broke and then got caught behind the crank pulley and shredded up into pieces and damaged the seal causing an oil leak as well.
@@moosemobileautorepair you are right, people usually wait until the thing disintegrates. the thing you mentioned about the seal getting damage, that gives me one more reason to replace it every 60k. did not know that.
Right. I do what I can to help customers and I usually recommend belts to be replaced as a maintenance item at certain intervals/years even though they can look fine and not make any noise. I've seen well made drive belts go over 300 k kilometers and still going. But replacing belts are far better and safer than sorry of course.
There is a sound that is coming from the top of my belt tensioner where the metal assembly is. It’s noticeable in first gear as I’m accelerating then the sound disappears as I roll into second gear. Do you think the belt tensioner is going bad?
By no means do I mean this offensively, but as a kid I used to stutter, and it sounds like you do too. I was bullied but by second grade I was taken aside by a teacher who helped me get through my speech impediment, and now I do stand-up comedy onstage.
The only joke I have is that songs like bad to the bone should be banned from the radio because it makes fun of stuttering people! Lol
LOL 😆 right. Yes, I do stutter and I've been to speech therapy, but I just need to practice more from what I have been taught so I can improve my speech fluency. Yeah, I know about that bad to the bone song. I remember I used to talk about that song sometimes back in the days.
As for the issue you're having my suggestion is to remove the drive belt completely and run the vehicle then and see if the sound is still there. IF the sound IS still there I would suspect that the intake VTC actuator is going bad. IF the sound is NOT there then I would manually check all of the pulleys by hand and examine them. The tensioner and idler pulleys are common to make noise on these.
What I do know about these engines is that the VTC actuator for the intake side are known to go bad and can cause these symptoms that you're having especially when you put the vehicle in gear and feel a vibration of some sort as well.
Let me know how it goes in the end.
Also, there are two TSBs for the 2012 to 2014 CR-V regarding vibration felt while driving/accelerating for the torque converter lock up clutch.
One states to change the automatic transmission fluid and reprogram the module for the TCM.
Second one states if all of the above has been done and the vibration is still there then it could be an issue with the torque converter and would need to be replaced.
@@moosemobileautorepair Found a site on CRV VIN's that were affected by the bad VTC's, my VIN was not on there. What I will focus on is the belt, tensioner and sprocket replacements. My vehicle is at 102k and is due for a change and while I am in there I will change out the alternator given its easy access after all other parts are removed. I will start this project on Friday.
Now, I remember my teacher explainging that I rush my thoughts to where my voice can not keep up. She said to focus on the sentence in your mind, read it out, then speak it. I will be damned if it worked and a life changing experience. I hope the best for you on that. Just remember Jim Stafford, a stutterer but could sing every note with complete ease.
Thanks I appreciate that. I wish you the best as well. Let me know if that stuff fixes your problem.
I am experiencing similar issues with you: vibration in 1st gear, a quick rattling when pressing the gas pedal, and then everything is good.
When I turn on AC (while stop in 1st gear or reverse), I can hear this metal grinding noise.
I suspect it is the belt or belt tensioner issue.
The torque converter TSB issue is different. It cuse the vehicle shuddering while in motion when you shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.