Hey,Martin. Don't suppose it matters that much-but as the filter housing goes on virtually upright( I think you've guessed it) Yes,I would've bunged some oil in the filter & housing b4 fitting it . Also MY tip for getting every chance of the drain plug loosening off. I often wack on with a hammer an imperial equivalent ,which is a half inch ,onto the hex. (As the heads are normally always a bit dodgey on an older vehicle anyway) Another one-wrap a ribbon of wet & dry or a bit o'sand paper around the hex and then jam the relevent socket or ring spanner over. Takes up any access clearance and also grips like poop to a blanket! Might've been helpful on the filter housing removal that one. Just wanted to share a couple of ideas of mine to you and my fellow subscribers to your channel. All the breast, Rogey Roger.
Great Video, did my Brothers 2013 2.2 last week. Wish my SAAB 9-3 1.9 Diesel was as easy to do, I changed the gearbox oil too. Running lovely now. Your video's are always boss. Thanks, Vinny.
4:00 The housing on my euro 5 was done up super tight, a 6 sided 27mm socket still rounded the plastic nut. Had to get my stronger mate to undo it for me using a set of oil filter jaws and even he struggled.
Well said Martin with regards to when the engine was last ran it was hot and drained back to the sump , does annoy me when people say you need to warm the engine up etc makes no sense especially if the car or van hasn’t moved since it was ran up and was at operating working temperature
It probably originates from when oils were much higher viscosity on the older motors. And in a chilly climate you'd grow a beard in the time it took to drain completely. I've, in recent years,not worried too much about running the vehicle to warm up. Although I admit I always USED to.
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k How is the TDCi too fragile?. It's an engine born out of collaboration between Ford and PSA, creating the HDi/TDCi range. They are used across a magnitude of different vehicles, and produce massive miles even on conservative maintenance. Euro 5 models were a pain with the introduction of DPF/Emission control systems, but that isn't the engines fault.
@@baron5747 Now we have euro 6, and Ford Diesels continue to require early injector replacement. Euro 5-6 regulations are good for those of us who want to breathe.
Nice easy oil change on that van shame all vehicles are not like that I remember you explaining your reason for not warming the oil before draining in a previous video great job 👍
Always tinkering with Fords! I did my clutch on my Mondeo because of your videos. On the 2.2d, think this is the PSA engine? If so, so check the price for the Peugeot, Citroen or Landrover “filter”. On my 1.6d Focus i always got my parts at the Citroen garage as it was cheaper than the Ford garage.
I had so much hassle with the same oil filter housing i had to heat up the seal ad bash a cold chisel round the edges to move it . Them housing are cheap so i made sure i could get a new one before i started. I always put some old cardboard down before i change the oil as its a pain to get it off the paving.😅
Hello mister, I juste want to thanks you, i could do some reparations on my 2005 Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCI titanium x with your videos. Clutch, flywheel, oilseal... You inspire me to do the job alone. So thank you very Much from FRANCE ! Un grand merci pour vos vidéos, votre partage de connaissances et votre convivialité ! King regards
Thanks for the video! Very helpful. Gonna do mine this week. I will do the fuel filter as well. Anyone got any tips or video links for the same fuel filter on this van?
Nice, makes a change to have things like the filter etc easy to get to, my 350 AWD one is a bit of a pain as the engine is front to back, but do able. Must admit I tend to pre fill the oil filters when I can so theres less time spent with the oil light on and the engine running.
its ok if you have an oil filter that sits upwards but not if they are on the side of an engine. There's enough oil on the bearings anyway for the first couple of seconds that it takes the oil filter to fill up.
@@retrorestore Yeah hated doing a Vectra where the dam thing was upside down 🙄 I use to dread the seconds ticking past with the oil light on and sure I could hear it just start to rattle before the light went out and everything quietened down.
you need to Warm the engine to 90• because cold oil is thicker consistency and remains on the engine walls and drips slower, thats why you want it hot to drain it easier and get most of it out as its more runny , like butter when its warm it's runny when its cold is more consistent
Not true, the last time the engine was run, the oil was hot and it all drained into the sump so it's all in the sump anyway. Today's oils are a lot thiner than they used to be and are no longer like treacle when cold. You are only draining the oil out of the sump.
Them plastic housing can be a right pain in the arse. You have the same torque wrench as me Martin. I find if you say click click when it's tight it's tightened perfectly 😂😂
Check that your van isn’t washing diesel into the sump from dodgy injectors and or failed regents as it’s a fairly classic symptom of a rising oil level or a van that never gets a long run.
Ford Transit :mk7 Problem with EGR Problem to change wheel bearings Problem to change brake discs Problem with gear boxes Problem with clutch Also rust on the bottom everywhere ,so time is coming when finally you don't know where to start..but..... is very very nice to drive,best model ever. 😂🤣😄👍🏻
good to see the retrorestore more
Love watching your repair videos watching from South Africa
Very kind of your Missus to let you use her washing up dish for the oil drain Martin, do remember to buy her a nice new one for her birthday.
lol
If Sharon was out shopping I bet he puts it through the parts washer and it’s back in the sink before she gets home😂😂
@@marcuskirby9299 Of course, its the only way lol
Hey,Martin.
Don't suppose it matters that much-but as the filter housing goes on virtually upright( I think you've guessed it) Yes,I would've bunged some oil in the filter & housing b4 fitting it . Also MY tip for getting every chance of the drain plug loosening off. I often wack on with a hammer an imperial equivalent ,which is a half inch ,onto the hex. (As the heads are normally always a bit dodgey on an older vehicle anyway) Another one-wrap a ribbon of wet & dry or a bit o'sand paper around the hex and then jam the relevent socket or ring spanner over. Takes up any access clearance and also grips like poop to a blanket! Might've been helpful on the filter housing removal that one.
Just wanted to share a couple of ideas of mine to you and my fellow subscribers to your channel.
All the breast,
Rogey Roger.
Thanks Roger, great tips bud.
Great Video, did my Brothers 2013 2.2 last week. Wish my SAAB 9-3 1.9 Diesel was as easy to do, I changed the gearbox oil too. Running lovely now. Your video's are always boss. Thanks, Vinny.
Nice work Vinny
4:00 The housing on my euro 5 was done up super tight, a 6 sided 27mm socket still rounded the plastic nut. Had to get my stronger mate to undo it for me using a set of oil filter jaws and even he struggled.
I always find those plastic housing leak when they are too tight, also a pain to remove 😂 25nm is perfect
Well said Martin with regards to when the engine was last ran it was hot and drained back to the sump , does annoy me when people say you need to warm the engine up etc makes no sense especially if the car or van hasn’t moved since it was ran up and was at operating working temperature
Exactly, Why do people not understand that.
It probably originates from when oils were much higher viscosity on the older motors. And in a chilly climate you'd grow a beard in the time it took to drain completely. I've, in recent years,not worried too much about running the vehicle to warm up. Although I admit I always USED to.
@@RogeyRD250DX tradition seems to carry on despite modern advancements
Hi Martin, another great informative video 👍I have a VW Transporter camper van and these kind of videos are so helpful for people. Many thanks 👍
Thanks 👍
Nice one mate , that oil filter couldn’t of been in a easier place
Ford transit the back bone of Britain 👍🇬🇧
TDCI is too fragile
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k How is the TDCi too fragile?. It's an engine born out of collaboration between Ford and PSA, creating the HDi/TDCi range. They are used across a magnitude of different vehicles, and produce massive miles even on conservative maintenance. Euro 5 models were a pain with the introduction of DPF/Emission control systems, but that isn't the engines fault.
@@baron5747 Now we have euro 6, and Ford Diesels continue to require early injector replacement.
Euro 5-6 regulations are good for those of us who want to breathe.
Good advice on the oil filter seal and holding the socket up Against the filter housing
Nice easy oil change on that van shame all vehicles are not like that I remember you explaining your reason for not warming the oil before draining in a previous video great job 👍
Yes, exactly
Always tinkering with Fords! I did my clutch on my Mondeo because of your videos.
On the 2.2d, think this is the PSA engine? If so, so check the price for the Peugeot, Citroen or Landrover “filter”. On my 1.6d Focus i always got my parts at the Citroen garage as it was cheaper than the Ford garage.
Nice, clear and honest video Martin
Thanks 👍
Brilliant and fascinating. So I don't need to warm the engine first before the engine oil as I might be buying a MK 7 Ford transit van.
No you don't.
I had so much hassle with the same oil filter housing i had to heat up the seal ad bash a cold chisel round the edges to move it . Them housing are cheap so i made sure i could get a new one before i started. I always put some old cardboard down before i change the oil as its a pain to get it off the paving.😅
Hello mister,
I juste want to thanks you, i could do some reparations on my 2005 Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCI titanium x with your videos.
Clutch, flywheel, oilseal... You inspire me to do the job alone.
So thank you very Much from FRANCE !
Un grand merci pour vos vidéos, votre partage de connaissances et votre convivialité !
King regards
Merci pour votre commentaire. content que mes vidéos vous aient aidé.
Great work Martin 👍
Evening Martin 🤝
Excellent work martin thank you 😊
Nice job as always Martin 👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the video! Very helpful. Gonna do mine this week. I will do the fuel filter as well. Anyone got any tips or video links for the same fuel filter on this van?
The cartridge filter is the paper style insert , the metal ones a spin on filter 👍and u just need a longer dipstick 😂
Excellent video. Very helpful 🤙
Nice, makes a change to have things like the filter etc easy to get to, my 350 AWD one is a bit of a pain as the engine is front to back, but do able. Must admit I tend to pre fill the oil filters when I can so theres less time spent with the oil light on and the engine running.
its ok if you have an oil filter that sits upwards but not if they are on the side of an engine. There's enough oil on the bearings anyway for the first couple of seconds that it takes the oil filter to fill up.
@@retrorestore Yeah hated doing a Vectra where the dam thing was upside down 🙄 I use to dread the seconds ticking past with the oil light on and sure I could hear it just start to rattle before the light went out and everything quietened down.
you need to Warm the engine to 90• because cold oil is thicker consistency and remains on the engine walls and drips slower, thats why you want it hot to drain it easier and get most of it out as its more runny , like butter when its warm it's runny when its cold is more consistent
Not true, the last time the engine was run, the oil was hot and it all drained into the sump so it's all in the sump anyway. Today's oils are a lot thiner than they used to be and are no longer like treacle when cold. You are only draining the oil out of the sump.
Them plastic housing can be a right pain in the arse. You have the same torque wrench as me Martin. I find if you say click click when it's tight it's tightened perfectly 😂😂
lol Nice one John.
Great job good tip.
9:09 are you sure it was all oil? It's not very often that van owners put too much oil in. It could be fuel leaking into the engine.
Nice vid. Question, how do you dispose of the waste oil?
We put it back into the empty oil container and take it down our local recycling centre.
very cood transit man suomi finland🙂🤗👍👌
Rubber gloves keeps the hands oil free lol
Yes, We ran out of them.
paint the old oil on the metal underneath or pour it in the sills
Pull it up and push at the same time fellas! It can be messy people!
👍👍👍👍
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice one, whats the van going to be used for? A day van like project man??
Its A van for shifting stuff.
I suppose it's the same engine as I've got in my Mondeo st 2.2
Check that your van isn’t washing diesel into the sump from dodgy injectors and or failed regents as it’s a fairly classic symptom of a rising oil level or a van that never gets a long run.
We'll keep an eye on it.
I was thinking the same thing, strange that the level was so high🤔
My 2.4 takes 9 ltrs
Ford Transit :mk7
Problem with EGR
Problem to change wheel bearings
Problem to change brake discs
Problem with gear boxes
Problem with clutch
Also rust on the bottom everywhere ,so time is coming when finally you don't know where to start..but..... is very very nice to drive,best model ever. 😂🤣😄👍🏻
Yes, its better than my Mk6 I had.
?@@retrorestore 😂 Or mine MK7 ELWB 2007 ,need new blood to do it all around , I've sold it for £800 .. bargain 😂
Get a proper oil pan. Pal😮
Yes, I keep meaning to get one.
You’re not American it’s not a wrench. It’s called a ratchet is an American slang. 😅😅😅😅😅😅😮
How do you know i'm not American lol
Good one Martin@@retrorestore