Your videos are awesome. Do you think you can do a video on how to replace the timing belt/balance shaft belt on a 94-97 Honda accord? Also a video on how to replace the head gasket? Keep up the great videos! Thanks!
I have a honda accord 94 95 year model. and made for engine swap to f20b DOHC, my question is the oxygen sensor is the same? Because i have a bad oxygen sensor. Hope you can help me, thanks.
You can try but it's a very tight spot. You may end up damaging the donut gaskets and have to remove it anyway to fix the resulting exhaust leak. The twisting action of trying to remove the O2 will pinch the gaskets and can damage them. Luckily the spring bolts are easy to cut off if they decide not to cooperate.
How about a video on how to replace the intake manifold on this 94-97 Honda Accord? (to show how to fully clean out the intake manifold and the throttle body). Thanks man.
hey i was wounder if you could help on out i have a 1995 accord dx and changed the tps . map aicv cap rotor and tuneup and egr the car starts up fine then as soon as it warms up the check engine light comes on and the car will buck if i give it to much gas and have to baby it back home at about 25 mph i tried jumping the ecu to pull codes and the check light does not blink and stays on what do you think it could be i have had o2 senors fail before but they did not make the car loose power and buck any help would be appreciated thankx
Hey Thankx for replying so fast the car starts up fine I can drive it for about 5 to ten mins then there is this slight buck like someone pressed the breaks real quick for a second then the car I think goes in limp mode and I car still drive it but very light on the pedal if I give it to much gas if feels like a five year old learning how the drive stick could this be the O2 sensor because I had them go before and it did a similar thing where right before the check light comes on it's like someone hit the brakes for a quick sec but I can't remember if it made the car buck like that
Sounds like the issue appears after the engine has warmed up and the PCM enters closed loop. One of the things it does in closed loop is it starts using the O2 sensor signal to adjust fuel trim. Often a bad sensor will be pegged rich or lean which causes the PCM to add too much or take away too much fuel in an attempt to make the dead O2 respond. Pulling the O2 sensor connector will force the PCM back into open loop if the issue disappears the O2 is the likely culprit. Since scan data isn't available on these older OBD 1 vehicles to see the O2 sensor signal the only way to definitively confirm if the O2 is at fault would be by scoping the signal wire directly.
@@Bushougoma ok so i started the car and right away i disconnected the 02 sensor and right away the check light comes on loss of power and bucking i never knew the 02 sensor could cause the car to run so poorly it feels like its running on three cylinders now this is the up steam 02 should i order the down stream as well i will follow up after and let you know if it all works out thankx for all your help
A 95 shouldn't have a downstream O2 unless the vehicle is really a 96 in which case if you pull the ashtray out you should see an OBD 2 scan tool connector inside. The downstream is just to monitor the catalytic converter and sets the infamous catalyst efficiency code it isn't used for fuel trim and was required on all vehicles when OBD 2 came out.
Hello Busho, my husband and I have a 1994 Honda Accord ex with a misfire. My husband replaced the distributor rotor, cap, the spark plugs and cables, the fuel filter and clean the injectors and the car still misfire.what else could be the problem?? Any suggestions? We need help to fix it. We love your channel is very informative. Thank you in advance!!!
Bushougoma we have a little improvement raisin the idle. I think is one of the injectors, because I pull all the spark plugs and in the cilinder 4 the spark plug was dirty with carbon deposits and the rest where like new. Could it be that injector the problem? That means that the injector is dirty or spraying to much fuel??
Possibly but have you checked the compression on that cylinder? Low compression can also cause a misfire. Compression gauges can be bought for under 20 bucks. Disable fuel by disconnecting the injector resistor connector (large metal finned heat sink on the driver side firewall). Crank the engine to bleed any pressure out of the fuel rail. Thread the gauge into the spark plug hole, hold the pedal to the floor (to fully open the throttle), and crank for 6 to 8 seconds. All four cylinders should be within a few PSI of each other. If spark is present at that plug (the wire is good) and compression is good then yes fuel delivery would be next. Since all of the other cylinders plugs look normal it's unlikely that it's a fuel pressure issue. Verify that you have injector pulse at the suspect cylinder with a test light disconnect the connector on the injector. Connect your test light to battery negative. Turn the key on and probe the red / black wire the light should come on that is the injector power. Now you will check for injector pulse connect the test light wire to battery positive and probe the other wire with the engine running. The light should flash indicating the PCM is attempting to fire the injector. There's no real way to test for a plugged or sticking injector without special tools. It's usually done with a fuel pressure gauge and an injector pulse tool. Without it ruling everything else out as explained above is the only way to be sure.
Bushougoma we fix the car! the compression in the cilindres is fine. The problem was one of the injectors was not working properly. We replace it and now the car is working good. I want to thank you for helping and making this awesome videos. You save us lots of money!! God bless you!!
Would have loved to see you try to remove the o2 sensor as it sat before removing mid pipe to simulate removing just the o2 sensor. But, great tutorial anyway. WHat year is this car exactly? I've got a p0141 code on my 1997 Honda Accord SE, so I believe I need to change the downstream sensor. Was that the downstream sensor you replaced and is it in the same location for my car. Looks like under the engine.
1995 it's an OBD 1 and doesn't have a downstream sensor. Downstream sensors were required when OBD 2 came out (1996 and later models) and is always after the outlet of the catalytic converter. As for your heater code it's easy to verify if the sensor is at fault just pull the connector on the sensor and with the engine running check for battery voltage on the heater wires with a multimeter if it's present the O2 sensor is bad.
@@Bushougoma So you have a 1995 with one O2 in the Manifold and one in that Midpipe ? I am trying to determine what the Primary O2 sensor is (where it is) because all I have is a listing in parts for Up stream and down stream ..
First off thanks for your videos they’re very informative . The question I have doesn’t pertain to this video but I was hoping you might be able to help me out anyways. I have a problem with my 96 Honda Accord lx 2.2L non vtec . My speedo was acting erratically and from reading on the internet, all signs were pointing to the vehicle speed sensor being bad ,so I replaced it and now my speedo doesn’t work at all , I tried the old one again and still no speedometer movement. I tested the connector and it is good. How do I test the new vss sensor to see if it’s faulty or could it be my speedo has gone bad? The thing is the speedo was move around erratically before but nothing now. Can you help me out
It sounds like the tiny drive link between the sensor and transmission wasn't reinstalled without it the sensor won't output a signal. It's a good idea to put a dab of silicone grease on the drive link and insert it into the VSS this will help retain it during installation.
Do you mean the little key pin ? If so, I thought so too, And that is exactly what I did , I put a dab of silicone grease to hold it in ,but still nothing.
Set a DMM to measure DC volts back probe the VSS connector with a sewing needle. With the key on and the engine running put the red probe on the yellow wire and the black probe on battery negative. You should see battery voltage. Now move the red probe to the black wire there should be 100 millivolts (0.100 volts) or less on this wire. If so check if the VSS is outputting a signal raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Start the engine and put the transmission in drive. Measure between the orange wire and battery negative you should see a voltage that changes with wheel speed. If so the VSS is working properly and either the orange signal wire is open between the VSS and the speedometer or the speedometer itself has an issue. Check the solder joints on the speedometer PCB they can crack from time to time and lead to erratic operation. If the solder joints are fine verify the power, ground, and VSS signal is present at the speedo if that checks out you will need to replace the speedo.
Thanks I will try it and get back to you with the results. Sorry for responding so late but I had to work and didn’t have time to respond Everything checks out fine , so I guess I need to replace the speedo like you said , because all is good everywhere else. thank you for all your help, when I replace the speedo , I will post my results here Thanks again man your awesome
I love all your videos they are very informative.....I was wondering if you would know why my accord is idling between 1000rpm and 1500rpm I have a video on my channel it's called🤑 I'll pay you if you know why my car is idling like this.....I'd really appreciate any feed back if you have the time if you need me to post more vids of the idling issue I would be glad to to to hear from you 🤙🏾✌🏾🤙🏾✌🏾
There isn't one on the manifold on this vehicle. The OBD 1 Accords like this one have the upstream sensor on the mid pipe while the OBD 2 Accords have the upstream sensor on the manifold. The OBD 2 models also have a downstream sensor located at the outlet of the CAT which doesn't exist on the OBD 1 models it's sole purpose is to set a code if the catalytic converter fails.
@@Bushougoma I have a 1995 Accord (OBD I) with a sensor in the Exhaust Manifold. I don't know if I have another O2 under the car - as it has been a while since I was down under looking for the Exhaust system.
In some predicaments you'll have no choice many cylinder head and flywheel bolts are 12 point so it's good to have a set of them around just in case. I hate having to buy tools in the middle of a job.
I really admire how thorough and specific you are!
What's the 02 sensor for?? I'm not a mechanic. But thanks to videos like this I can work on my cars an save hella$$$ n thanks for this video
Those Honda O2 sensors are always a PITA to get out. Thanks for the video.
Your videos are awesome. Do you think you can do a video on how to replace the timing belt/balance shaft belt on a 94-97 Honda accord? Also a video on how to replace the head gasket? Keep up the great videos! Thanks!
Nice job!
I need a video on replacing the EGR thingamabob. What friggin tool do you need to reach the double friggin bolts?
I have a honda accord 94 95 year model. and made for engine swap to f20b DOHC, my question is the oxygen sensor is the same? Because i have a bad oxygen sensor. Hope you can help me, thanks.
Another great and very helpful video, thank you!
Do these years only have this 02 sensor ? Cause I cant find a upstream on my 97 accord ex f22b1
Keren sangat
My Honda didn’t pass smog because it’s running to rich ? It’s a 1994 Honda Accord lx you think if this can be the problem?
Check your Upstream sensor in the Exhaust Manifold. Change your PCV valve, and Air filter if you have not done so already.
If I were to just change the O2 sensor would I need to take out the mid pipe if it’s seized onto the mid pipe?
You can try but it's a very tight spot. You may end up damaging the donut gaskets and have to remove it anyway to fix the resulting exhaust leak. The twisting action of trying to remove the O2 will pinch the gaskets and can damage them.
Luckily the spring bolts are easy to cut off if they decide not to cooperate.
How about a video on how to replace the intake manifold on this 94-97 Honda Accord? (to show how to fully clean out the intake manifold and the throttle body). Thanks man.
Where is the downstream oxygen sensor located for a 1997 honda accord lx with a 2.2l sohc motor?
hey i was wounder if you could help on out i have a 1995 accord dx and changed the tps . map aicv cap rotor and tuneup and egr the car starts up fine then as soon as it warms up the check engine light comes on and the car will buck if i give it to much gas and have to baby it back home at about 25 mph i tried jumping the ecu to pull codes and the check light does not blink and stays on what do you think it could be i have had o2 senors fail before but they did not make the car loose power and buck any help would be appreciated thankx
So it only loses power on acceleration after the engine warms up? Everything is good before the PCM enters closed loop?
Hey Thankx for replying so fast the car starts up fine I can drive it for about 5 to ten mins then there is this slight buck like someone pressed the breaks real quick for a second then the car I think goes in limp mode and I car still drive it but very light on the pedal if I give it to much gas if feels like a five year old learning how the drive stick could this be the O2 sensor because I had them go before and it did a similar thing where right before the check light comes on it's like someone hit the brakes for a quick sec but I can't remember if it made the car buck like that
Sounds like the issue appears after the engine has warmed up and the PCM enters closed loop. One of the things it does in closed loop is it starts using the O2 sensor signal to adjust fuel trim. Often a bad sensor will be pegged rich or lean which causes the PCM to add too much or take away too much fuel in an attempt to make the dead O2 respond. Pulling the O2 sensor connector will force the PCM back into open loop if the issue disappears the O2 is the likely culprit.
Since scan data isn't available on these older OBD 1 vehicles to see the O2 sensor signal the only way to definitively confirm if the O2 is at fault would be by scoping the signal wire directly.
@@Bushougoma ok so i started the car and right away i disconnected the 02 sensor and right away the check light comes on loss of power and bucking i never knew the 02 sensor could cause the car to run so poorly it feels like its running on three cylinders now this is the up steam 02 should i order the down stream as well i will follow up after and let you know if it all works out thankx for all your help
A 95 shouldn't have a downstream O2 unless the vehicle is really a 96 in which case if you pull the ashtray out you should see an OBD 2 scan tool connector inside.
The downstream is just to monitor the catalytic converter and sets the infamous catalyst efficiency code it isn't used for fuel trim and was required on all vehicles when OBD 2 came out.
i think 6 points are better on any fastener. i hardly never use 6 pts. just me another good video ...
Where you buy the Mid Pipe at?
Is the O2 sensor same location for 95 accordv6?
Hello Busho, my husband and I have a 1994 Honda Accord ex with a misfire. My husband replaced the distributor rotor, cap, the spark plugs and cables, the fuel filter and clean the injectors and the car still misfire.what else could be the problem??
Any suggestions? We need help to fix it.
We love your channel is very informative.
Thank you in advance!!!
Is the check engine light on are any codes present?
Give it some gas to raise the idle when in park is there any improvement?
Bushougoma we have a little improvement raisin the idle. I think is one of the injectors, because I pull all the spark plugs and in the cilinder 4 the spark plug was dirty with carbon deposits and the rest where like new.
Could it be that injector the problem? That means that the injector is dirty or spraying to much fuel??
Possibly but have you checked the compression on that cylinder? Low compression can also cause a misfire. Compression gauges can be bought for under 20 bucks.
Disable fuel by disconnecting the injector resistor connector (large metal finned heat sink on the driver side firewall). Crank the engine to bleed any pressure out of the fuel rail. Thread the gauge into the spark plug hole, hold the pedal to the floor (to fully open the throttle), and crank for 6 to 8 seconds. All four cylinders should be within a few PSI of each other.
If spark is present at that plug (the wire is good) and compression is good then yes fuel delivery would be next. Since all of the other cylinders plugs look normal it's unlikely that it's a fuel pressure issue.
Verify that you have injector pulse at the suspect cylinder with a test light disconnect the connector on the injector. Connect your test light to battery negative. Turn the key on and probe the red / black wire the light should come on that is the injector power. Now you will check for injector pulse connect the test light wire to battery positive and probe the other wire with the engine running. The light should flash indicating the PCM is attempting to fire the injector.
There's no real way to test for a plugged or sticking injector without special tools. It's usually done with a fuel pressure gauge and an injector pulse tool. Without it ruling everything else out as explained above is the only way to be sure.
Bushougoma I will buy one and I let you know.
Thanks for all your help!!!
God bless you!!
Bushougoma we fix the car! the compression in the cilindres is fine. The problem was one of the injectors was not working properly. We replace it and now the car is working good.
I want to thank you for helping and making this awesome videos. You save us lots of money!!
God bless you!!
Would have loved to see you try to remove the o2 sensor as it sat before removing mid pipe to simulate removing just the o2 sensor. But, great tutorial anyway. WHat year is this car exactly? I've got a p0141 code on my 1997 Honda Accord SE, so I believe I need to change the downstream sensor. Was that the downstream sensor you replaced and is it in the same location for my car. Looks like under the engine.
1995 it's an OBD 1 and doesn't have a downstream sensor. Downstream sensors were required when OBD 2 came out (1996 and later models) and is always after the outlet of the catalytic converter.
As for your heater code it's easy to verify if the sensor is at fault just pull the connector on the sensor and with the engine running check for battery voltage on the heater wires with a multimeter if it's present the O2 sensor is bad.
Oh, I didn't realize what year your car was. THanks for the advice. Will test it.
Bushougoma I have a 95, so I don’t have the bottom sensor like in this video?
@@Bushougoma So you have a 1995 with one O2 in the Manifold and one in that Midpipe ? I am trying to determine what the Primary O2 sensor is (where it is) because all I have is a listing in parts for Up stream and down stream ..
By the way I love your videos : Best on the net.
Part number on that mid pipe and sensor?
First off thanks for your videos they’re very informative .
The question I have doesn’t pertain to this video but I was hoping you might be able to help me out anyways. I have a problem with my 96 Honda Accord lx 2.2L non vtec . My speedo was acting erratically and from reading on the internet, all signs were pointing to the vehicle speed sensor being bad ,so I replaced it and now my speedo doesn’t work at all , I tried the old one again and still no speedometer movement. I tested the connector and it is good. How do I test the new vss sensor to see if it’s faulty or could it be my speedo has gone bad? The thing is the speedo was move around erratically before but nothing now. Can you help me out
It sounds like the tiny drive link between the sensor and transmission wasn't reinstalled without it the sensor won't output a signal.
It's a good idea to put a dab of silicone grease on the drive link and insert it into the VSS this will help retain it during installation.
Do you mean the little key pin ? If so, I thought so too, And that is exactly what I did , I put a dab of silicone grease to hold it in ,but still nothing.
Set a DMM to measure DC volts back probe the VSS connector with a sewing needle. With the key on and the engine running put the red probe on the yellow wire and the black probe on battery negative. You should see battery voltage. Now move the red probe to the black wire there should be 100 millivolts (0.100 volts) or less on this wire.
If so check if the VSS is outputting a signal raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands. Start the engine and put the transmission in drive. Measure between the orange wire and battery negative you should see a voltage that changes with wheel speed.
If so the VSS is working properly and either the orange signal wire is open between the VSS and the speedometer or the speedometer itself has an issue. Check the solder joints on the speedometer PCB they can crack from time to time and lead to erratic operation.
If the solder joints are fine verify the power, ground, and VSS signal is present at the speedo if that checks out you will need to replace the speedo.
Thanks I will try it and get back to you with the results. Sorry for responding so late but I had to work and didn’t have time to respond
Everything checks out fine , so I guess I need to replace the speedo like you said , because all is good everywhere else. thank you for all your help, when I replace the speedo , I will post my results here
Thanks again man your awesome
I love all your videos they are very informative.....I was wondering if you would know why my accord is idling between 1000rpm and 1500rpm I have a video on my channel it's called🤑 I'll pay you if you know why my car is idling like this.....I'd really appreciate any feed back if you have the time if you need me to post more vids of the idling issue I would be glad to to to hear from you 🤙🏾✌🏾🤙🏾✌🏾
Do you fix cars on the side as a side job I need my flywheel replaced?? 95 Honda Accord Wagon
Adrian Rodriguez lol what do you think the chances are that he lives anywhere near you? He could be across the world ahaha
Tolong bantu saya tentang kabel kabel yang ada di Honda 94-97...
Honda, we make it simple. well at least they don't use a flex pipe.
Where is new videos?
So what’s is that 02 sensor called down there? Because there’s a 02 sensor on the mondifold too
There isn't one on the manifold on this vehicle. The OBD 1 Accords like this one have the upstream sensor on the mid pipe while the OBD 2 Accords have the upstream sensor on the manifold. The OBD 2 models also have a downstream sensor located at the outlet of the CAT which doesn't exist on the OBD 1 models it's sole purpose is to set a code if the catalytic converter fails.
@@Bushougoma I have a 1995 Accord (OBD I) with a sensor in the Exhaust Manifold. I don't know if I have another O2 under the car - as it has been a while since I was down under looking for the Exhaust system.
My oxygen sensor keeps telling me it needs a new one even after I replace the old one
i hardly ever use 12 pts
In some predicaments you'll have no choice many cylinder head and flywheel bolts are 12 point so it's good to have a set of them around just in case. I hate having to buy tools in the middle of a job.
i agree