Except no port fuel injection or and gasoline fuel injection system has ever premixed air and fuel prior to injection. And MOST people put the cheapest fuel in their vehicle. When you shut your hot engine off it leaves a layer of oil on the cylinder wall that does not drain away over night or even over weeks. If what he is claiming were true ALL engined would have this issue and they simply don't.
The main and most important problem in the engineering and designing new motor vehicles is ( money ) _ they are manufactured with bad intention in mind to keep and maintain the industry at the consumer's expense
The problem isnt DGFI, its the LV motor oil combined with lower ring tension. Use 5w30 in 5w20 motors, 5w40 in 5w30 motors and 0w30 in 0w20 motors and change your oil every 5k miles
isn't that way too much? there are literally manufacturers that only ask yearly or after 30.000 kilometers. 15.000 kilometers is a normal interval, and 10.000 is a strict one (although in my country 99% of brands ask for this last one - it makes them more money and with less risks).
@@luckyguy600 2005 Pilot with 270K. Oil has been changed every 5K from new with conventional oil and factory filter. It uses no oil between changes, and purrs like new. Same injectors. I run a 20 gallon spec'd Techron through there every 10K.
Change your oil with synthetic every 5k miles with the filter, Use Tier 1 gasoline replace the PCV valve, spark plugs and coolant every 50k miles. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder.
If you have ever seen a racing engine with low to no tension piston rings using methanol as fuel you would understand how much the fuel matters!! They are spotless 😁
It is not one size fits all. Every part has its lifetime. Take the spark plugs. Old style lasted 10k but Iridium changed that. Which coolant it is affects its lifetime as does the engine metallurgy. PCV valves and PCV system design all vary as well. Even pistons are not all the same because of rings type, cylinder machining, concentricity, tolerances, cooling from water, cooling with oil, and how it gets driven and what climate it is in. Just too many variables.
Like the videos. This just makes me want to hold on to my 2008 Lexus GX 470 with the old reliable V8. Sure the MPG isn't good and not fast like her Mini with the twin turbo but way more reliable. 16 years later and 200k miles and the V8 has had ZERO issues.
Yep- me 06 Tahoe 265k everything original everything working no oil consumption or leak. Same w/04 Suburban 150k now. Both are use for travel trailer towing. Parts everywhere if needed- I don't give sh... about MPG. insurance & tabs way cheaper
My 2005 LX 470 has 226,000 miles on it. Tomorrow, I'm taking it on a trip out of state. Yes, they use a lot of gasoline. But these engines go and go and go with minimal maintenance and repairs.
If your vehicle is reliable, just think how much you are saving by not throwing money into some thing that will depreciate like c razy, you can buy a .lot of fuel for that saving.
The fuel dilution has more to do with the design of the injector or the design of the head where the injector is mounted. It can result in more fuel being sprayed onto the cylinder wall. This fuel can bypass the low tension rings getting into the oil. Oil does not mix well with fuel and can cause the sludge that blocks oil passages and causes engine failure.
I recently bought a 2023 Honda Passport with the V-6 which has been around forever. I do wish it did not have DI but 5K oil changes with synthetic should help a bunch. There's a Passport offroad site where the owner took the vehicle in for the 100K service including valve adjustment. The mechanic showed the valves were quite clean and needed nothing. It had 5K synthetic oil changes and the mechanic swore by 5-30 in them for longevity.
@@davidanderson8469thats super new. That engine will have very tight tolerances. But I am told some kind of intake chemical is good to use at a good interval. My Honda 1.5 Turbo never got anything so chem is out of question at this point (130k miles). Someday I will have an endoscope peek at valves.
When my wife chose her 2023 Kia Soul in I knew what we were getting into. 😆 Then again you couldn't find a car on a Toyota or Honda lot and she needed one to replace the one she lost to a deer accident in 2022. I'm not going to get into the used offerings at the time in our area, needless to say for $23k it wasn't a lot of money in terms of what was out there used at the time, mostly rust buckets from New England. That 2.0L "Nu" engine is really noisy on cold start up, same as the one in the Forte. Interestingly enough I found a post online where someone switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and it helped quiet down the clatter (same viscosity) and I tried it so I switched from Mobil1 to PUP and it starts up a little quieter now. But that engine you need to change the oil every 3k miles, forget about 5k or 7.5k. Right now it's got 20k on the odo and doesn't burn any oil or at least none that I can see checking the dipstick once a week. I also only use 91 or 93 octane, the compression ratio on these is 12.5:1 and so I noticed it runs smoother with the higher octane. Sometimes I think the car shut off on me being a Kia because it's so quiet and the steering wheel has hardly any vibrations like you'd associate with a car of this price point. So I have to check the tach to make sure it didn't shut off, being a Kia I'm always half expecting it to shut off on me, I don't know why. The only thing that broke was the master window switch, we went through 2 of them because the first replacement was also bad from factory. I just need it to hold for 10 years at least, once the power train warranty runs out then I'll be happy I got 10 years out of it but who really knows, might be more or less. I intend on doing the CVT service every 30k miles, I'm not following the owner's manual there which is lifetime fluid, or under "severe service" schedule it says to flush the CVT fluid every 56k miles which I thought was an odd number.
Awesome and yes sometimes the economics just make More sense the. Buying a 5 year old Toyota with hard use and 90,000 miles. If it serves the purpose. At least you are going in eyes wide open
So Direct fuel injection, Absolutely Do Not go over 5000 miles on your oil especially if it's not a Vehicle driven on the Interstate highway Daily, Many short trips wrecks your oil, Oil is cheap engine's aren't.
Dude if you're going over 5,000 mi for an oil change in any car you're an idiot there is no 10,000 mi oil change that's why we have all these used cars right now with clogged up gunked up engines cuz people thought oh yeah I'm going to use this oil that lasts 10,000 miles.....bullshit! 🙄
Toyota have 2 types of injection on some of their cars, they combine the 'OLD' and the 'NEW', hopefully the OLD type partially cleans the back of the valves, perhaps a partial flow of, say kerosine could be fed by an injector into the inlet system to of a diesel try and clean the valves.
@@adoreslaurel sigh, sometimes I think these fuel saving trchnologies go too far, like stop-start engine tech, or turbos on economy cars. You save on fuel but these technologies seem to cost money in terms of engine wear and damage, so its kind of just a wash🤔😒
Excellent explanation. Direct injection into the combustion causing fuel dilution of the engine oil is a big problem for all car manufacturers. However, the car manufacturers are not honouring their car warranties, and are instead blaming the car owners for not maintaining their cars adequately. The issue is that the manufacturers have extended their maintenance intervals to far beyond what they should be for a direct injection engine. These DI engines need far more frequent oil changes. Jaguars are well known for their engines failing due fuel dilution of the engine oil, requiring a full engine replacement.
People drive their gdi turbo 4 bangers like they're old trucks. Never drive them hard while cold. Always warm them up to full operating temp. Top tier fuel and oil. Change oil early. I change my port injected N/A Honda 5000 KMS or 3000 miles. Go for a road trip every couple of months and blow that thing out.
Thanks for making an educational video and not just walking around a car lot talking shit. It is ironic for your intro to say “life is too short to drive boring cars” but you reviewed your personal Camry lol. Respect You did an amazing job in this video. Subscribed
My 2019 Murano has 79K and hasn't missed a single beat. No start stop, no cylinder deactivation, no turbos, just good old fashioned naturally aspirated port injection. I change my oil every 3,000 miles or less. Never added a drop.😊 Never even had a single recall. Can't even say that for most Toyotas 😂
I've changed the tranny fluid twice and really take care of it. If/when the transmission were to go I have a 15 year platinum extended warranty that will cover it. I've heard Rogues, Altimas and Sentras have the highest rate of transmission failure amongst the Nissan brand.
You are filming in front of a Benz engine, but I haven't seen many issues with carbon build up in the 2 liter 4 cylinder direct injection engines of MB. There were issues in US with broken pistons I believe, but those issues are not present in Europe where 95 is the minimum octane nr.
One of your best videos to date. Well explained and the oil, how that has changed. The driving with a cold engine section was very good too. Well done sir.
It seems to me just driving around people are really hard there vehicles, every start is a 0-60 full throttle run, these little engines for their size will get it, we never dreamed tiny lil 4 cylinder would ever pull like these engines, I’ve had two tiny lil 2.7 dual turbo F150’s and they’ve never missed a beat, but I don’t run them at full throttle at every start, I also never get on the engine till it’s warmed up and I never neglect oil changes. I 100% agree with installing a catch can.
Use ONLY Top Tier gasoline-look on the pump for label, This will keep injectors clean long term. Change the oil every 6 months or 5k miles. Try not to run engine for very short trips. It needs to be warmed up fully for maybe 15 minutes at least once per week to keep oil and crankcase free of moisture. Warm the engine up for 5+ minutes after coolant temp hits running temp before loading the engine. Cool down the turbo and bearings for 2 minutes minimum after running up a hill, highway, or any driving that loads the engine signifiganlty. . Change the coolant maybe every 5-6 years. Change the trans fluid every 40-50k miles or every 6 years. Look at the maintenance shedule before following any of this advice! Some types of vehicle need even more stringent care! The above is only what I do after a many years of learning. Read your manual! 10k oil changes are a very bad idea in my opinion.
I've been working on cars for 35 years, it doesn't matter what grade of fuel you buy, your engines Knock Sensor will will adjust your ignition timing so that it detonates the fuel/air mixture when it's suppose to and not pre-detonate the mixture. I don't get the full 302hp out of my direct injected Mercedes Benz, but who cares, it's still fast as hell and I save money.
Here in Europe the overcharged 3Cylinder 1.0l Ecoboost (called EcoBOOM)/ TSI engines have become the standard for the affordable cars! The expected life span is max 200k km! Cars (if they survive till then) become automaticaly worthless by reaching or exceeding the 200k km.
Direct Injection is fine, the best of both worlds is port and direct injection. A lot of people just don't change their oil or take care of their cars in general so that's also a contributing factor 🤷♂️
I always look forward to seeing your informative videos Mark. Some people think that they can change the weight of oil depending on the outside temperature. I go to a shop near my house and they never disappoint me in quality of the work they do on my car
One issue is lack of oil changes. People try to follow the manufacturer recommendations which are not good enough for turbo engines. The turbos use oil to cool and it cooks the oil really bad. If you have a turbo charged engine I would be doing oil changes every 3000-3500 miles even with synthetic oil. Naturally aspirated engines yeah every 5k is fine, but not for turbo charged engines. Also make sure you use oil with SN on the certification to reduce chances of instant catastrophic failure when starting a cold engine. Dave's Auto Center has a video on that problem. Glad you covered the LSPI issues it is sad some folks do not know they could blow their engine just starting it when cold outside. Excess fuel getting past the rings is usually not a problem for people that have longer commutes it gets burned out, but people with short commutes its a problem it never has time to burn off. Well done Mark:P
A little diy takes care of the carbon issue. I use a valve cleaning spray. I spray it after the Mass Airflow sensor. A cleaner like CRC valve cleaner has oil & detergent mixed in. Twice a year. Combined with high quality fuel & 5k mile oil changes. 120k miles on a 2016 SQ5, still running strong.
Just had an idea for a new piston crank system. You know how the piston Rams in and out which causes huge gforces on the piston, crank shaft and bearings. Why not have a off set piston shaft, meaning it goes up at a angle, when hits end, there's a mild rotation at the piston shaft and rod where'd piston rod ends up at the other side of the piston and comes back down, same happens at bottom of piston. So basically the piston rod is working at an elongated elliptical rotation, less sharp stop and both ends on piston travel. What do you think, do you even get the picture what I'm trying to say lol.😂?
This was finally a good video. Basically all new engines needs a catch can and a lot more oil changes plus often high load driving conditions in order to evaporate the gasoline from the oil. If you get your oil up to tempreture you will evaporate the lighter fraction the gasoline and unfortunately often oil changes would be required . We do have a sky active Mazda that is only direct injected but it is NA so we never had any issues only do regular oil changes and run the car hard on the high way. But the low power NA engine doesn’t suffer from a lot of blow by and crankcase pressure making it last a lot longer . So the major problem is not so much just the direct injection but also the firing pressure and the amount of hp per L of displacement. What use to be a norm only for sports cars now it is in daily driver. Most of this failures did exist before but they were in sports cars so the general public never felt it for example rally cars with turbo engines were making from 150 to 200 hp per L of displacement now even every day cars are having the same power per L of displacement all this power will lead to problems and this is the reality.
Wouldn't using high quality gasoline, such as Chevron with Techron help these engine issues? I have added a bottle of Techron monthly to my gas tank of my '08 Mercedes V8 and it runs great. Of course I use Chevron supreme gasoline as well. My engine has 62k miles and no issues to date.
Spitfires used carbs, and Me-109s used direct fuel. The trouble with both was they seldom lasted 20 hours till they crashed or blew up. Hopefully not my new M20A-FKS Toyota Corolla Cross engine won't blow up or crash! When I change it I smell gasoline in the oil, as you pointed out. THAT is why I change my oil every 3 months or 3,000Km
I'm expecting delivery of Corolla Cross equipped with M20A-FXS 2 liter engine and the fact that you smell gasoline in oil within 3K kms sounds alarming.. do you use the car exclusively for commuting/short trips into town or highway use ?? thanks in advance for your reply
I have two Direct Injection engine vehicles. You have to use WOT now and again, regular oil changes are a must. Also an oil catch can and intake clean will help. One of my vehicles has 200k kms (2018 G80 sport) and no issues.
Direct injection was first used on diesels. The thing about using it with gasoline is that you have far less margin for error. You get some carbon buildup, it starts glowing red hot around the edges and the next thing you know, you're pre-igniting and that's how you break an engine. I suggest if you have a late model car that you put a can of Sea Foam in the tank once a month to keep that carbon buildup down. You can also add some to your oil with every oil change to help resist sludge buildup. I get 23mpg around town from my 2001 Jetta VR6 with a manual transmission. Regular old port injection. In a 2.8l 6 cylinder motor. Running the A/C. Was considered an ultra low emissions vehicle when new. State of the art. The bar has moved since then but it still isn't bad by modern standards. It has even had a stage 1 tune. Not a lot of VR6s still on the road because people didn't take care of them. Cheaped out on fuel. Used the wrong oil to save a couple of bucks. It is critical to follow manufacturer specs. Most of the Mk IVs you see on the road have the bog standard old school 2l NA I4. You can run regular oil in them. You can run 87 octane fuel. That's what those engines were designed for. But if you do it with the turbo 1.8 or VR6, you are destroying your engine. You never want to use lower octane rated fuel than specified. Even if the system can compensate to avoid knock, you're running at retarded timing, getting fouling, poor fuel economy and reduced power. I absolutely loathe how modern automatic transmissions tend to be tuned. There's a lot of engine lugging going on which is bad for the engine and really not great for fuel economy or emissions when you put your foot down and the transmission doesn't downshift. The low speed running is great for mileage when you are cruising on the freeway but the moment you need to accelerate or add power while going up a hill, the transmission needs to downshift but it doesn't. Or you put your foot way into it and it downshifts too much, leaving your motor screaming away at 6,000 RPM. Sad that the manual transmission is going away. I can handle an 8 speed manual without doing a money shift. I learned to drive a semi when I was younger, though I never actually drove one for a job because I ended up going into aviation. Most people in the US can't even handle a three on the tree these days. Automatic transmissions have always been a crapshow. But even more so today. Back when I was driving cars with older 4 speed automatics, you could just set it on 3 for around town and the cars were reasonably responsive. Before they became electronic, you could just tweak your throttle valve to alter the shift points and make the transmission work more aggressively, downshifting sooner and upshifting later. With practice, you could learn how to precisely manipulate the throttle valve to make the transmission do what you wanted, when you wanted. Modern automatics have 6, 7, 8 or even 9 speeds and they can't manage to make effective use of them. IDK how TF Elon Musk thinks he's going to make his driverless future happen when they can't even use modern technology to make an automatic transmission even the pickiest manual snob couldn't fault. A computer should be able to shift more accurately than I do, as someone who learned on a manual, still drives a manual and has a quarter million miles under their belt, but they simply can't figure out how to program them right and don't use enough data points to figure it out. By now, a car should know if you're going up a friggin hill and shift accordingly🤦♂🤡 Thanks to the proliferation of smartphones, the necessary sensors are cheap and readily available.
I feel good about my 2020 Camry 2.5 Dynamic Force engine having both types of injection. The MPG on my car is phenomenal. If I drove on a freeway for at least 500 miles I'm sure I would get over 40 MPG. I've taken shorter trips with a combined freeway, hills and curves, putting around town, and even some miles in the mountains (Sierra Mtns.) and have gotten 35.7 - 38.2 MPG! I'm amazed! The computer controls everything. How is the milage in your 2022 Camry, Mark?
Hey, you should try Lubrication Engineers oil. The problem has always been the PCV system. This oil has a very high vaporization ( like well over 400 degrees F ) so the carbon fouling is reduced. Try it out.
Buy a pre-2015 car outright. Buy a second one as a spare. That's what I've done and it's cost me £5k for both cars. Far cheaper than renting a car for 4 years, only to be far worse off!
Why I stick with my old beaters! I have three brothers that are Mechanics and saw the problems on the rise. I know of a man that his motor blew on the way home and he even had a dealership guy in the car with him. He ended up having to litigate with an attorney over the deal. New cars are GARBAGE! I have an 85 VW Jetta Diesel that runs and drives like I just bought it.
How about disconnecting the carterventilation and just let the gasses out in the open , just as the old days ? You will get a lot less carbon and deposits . Or place an oildivider between the rockercover and intake manifold , so cleaned air commes in ?
Not all engines use oil..my 2018 maserati levante doesnt use a drop between oil changes and has very little dilution and blowby.and i run it fairly hard..actually my toyota engi e uses more.strangely..so i guess it varies .
Yes, very important Oil and specifications you showing up. Engine Oil has to withstand all stress during the combustion, plus burnet very clear means minimum ash. Direct injection Gas Engines are the same as Diesel Direct injected only lower compression with spark ignition and gasoline Today new engines need the same engine Oil with the same specifications as Diesel Blutec Engines. Have very modern Engine Oils up to 5W40 with those specifications. I use in my GLS350d 5W40 MOTUL - LIQUI MOLY - Now I use PENTOSIN - I get a better price. Those economic fuel-saving engine Oils damage the Valve Train is too light. 5W40 engine Oil is for today's cars with specifications that say low ash MB 229.52 (60/71) ( Euro 6 specifications and soon Euro 7 specs) Those other 5W40 oils are very different from those 5W40 standard or old fashion oils. Look on the DATA SHEET - you going to see Viscosity at 100C max 13.5 and a viscosity index of 200 or a little higher which is very important. Old fashion 5W40 Viscosity at 100C 14.5 or even higher 17 - viscosity index 120 The viscosity index is very important for higher oil quality ( not affected by high and low temperatures to be degraded during the cycle of use. In my BMW I use the same engine OIL 5W40 PENTOSIN Viscosity at 100C 13.5 viscosity index is 195 - low ash burning LIQUI MOLY 5W30 4200 eng oil has one of the best viscosity at 100C 12.2 and a viscosity index of 200 Go to Google search for all kinds of engine Oils = DATA SHEET observe Viscosity at 100C and Viscosity index the highest - garbage oils have very low visc. index.
@@ECPP Engine Oils I divide new and Old styles or parameters. Good mother oils up to 5W40 low ash ( The most new norms) Viscosity at 100C is not higher than 13.5 ( 13 - 12.9 - 13.2) A very important viscosity index up over 200, if can find one, is the best. LIQUI MOLY 5W30 4200 model is one of the best that we can get in Canada Viscosity at 100C is 12.2 Viscosity index of 200. Oils with higher viscosity and older style going to kill the engine too. Those modern engines are built with lubricated channels with very small diameters for very light engine oils to hold pressure in the Lub system. When we use old-style oil 5W40 or 10W40 reducing oil flow in the lub system damages the engine. Those very light engine Oils as 0W20 OW16 Viscosity at 100C 7.5 up to 10 and an index of 130. For that reason killing the engines. Lab Fuel economy test is for how much can save = during a 1 year can save 2 or 3 liters of fuel. This is true - governments need those numbers for their propaganda. Why is no one word about why engines can't last? Why is the Government not saying long-lasting engines are less polluting?
I would say vehicles that were made between 1987-2010 were the right combination of technology and durability. The previous 10 years before they sucked since the auto manufacturers were trying to adapt. After that in 2011 they were try to adapt again causing all kinds of issues. I sure miss these vehicles made between 1987-2010. Another advantage of those vehicles is you could still work on them and they didn't cost a fortune to buy. I would also add that pre 1974 vehicles were also nice since they had much horsepower and not all the epa nonsense. This is when vehicles were absolutely beautiful with design and style. In fact they had women in swimsuits that advertised them. You look at the modern day car they look boring and cheap like someone without any style putting them together. There is no more sexiness about most of these vehicles just efficiency.
@guruofendtimes819 Good example I had a 2012 Ford Focus. At 95k I started having problems with the stupid transmission. I had these problems until I sold it with 140k. The previous models 2010 and earlier had the normal old school transmission and with general maintenance you could easily get 250k on that vehicle. The sad thing is the dealership only would replace the clutch once since I got it in just under 100k and then the computer at 125k. They said it was my baby after that. At 140 it started doing the jerking nonsense so I took the grounds off since it's primarily electric controlled and cleaned them out new dielectric grease on and that worked for 5 thousand miles until it did it again and then I sold it.
2 last cars i had, approx same weight, one of them gdi and one port injected. The port injected use 15% less fuel, so are there any pros at all for gdis? I think not. Engines should never be downsized with turbo, they will live under constant enormous stress.
Fuel is important even in direct injection engines. Using "Top Teir Fuel" with the correct Octane rating will help. These fuels are blended with additives to clean the upper top of the piston and into the rings somewhat. Cheap fuels can be 91 octane but do not provide the detergent additives t the same degree. Always use "Top Tier Fuels". Shell has the Top Tier Fuel posted on their pumps. See The Oil Geek for the chemistry about oils and the use of quality fuel to prevent Low Speed Pre-Ignition. Some times you do get what you pay for.
the problem is not the DIRECT INJECTION in itself, it's the EGR valves installed on ALL cars who meet Euro-6 emission normative. The EGR valve takes part of exhaust gasses and redirects them into intake manifold to cool down the combustion chamber and reduce NOx gasses and because of this recirculation system it builds carbon and oil on your intake valves, but since there's no more port injection, nothing else can clean your intake valves. The oil dilution is cause by OPF/GPF filters, in order them to operate they need to be in a certain range of temperature like on diesels, so in order for them to regenerate aka all the PM10 soot burn down to PM2, the engine shoots a little bit of gasoline into the chamber and leaves with gasses to then do the post ignition into your OPF filter. Obviously not all gasoline will leave the chamber and a small amount will dilute with the oil but overtime it will accumulate. So change your oil every 5k miles because gas is a solvent and it will wash your cylinders from oil.
Toyotas D4S is reliable. They've been using it for around a decade now. More OEM'S need to care more about this issue and not writing it off to expected maintenance. It's sad in 24 manufacturers still use GDI only
Ypu are right Mikey, I agree, the dual system is such a great design and not sure why many don't go that route. Well actually it always comes down to cost. If they all did it right, there would be much fewer problems in the biz.
Forced induction like Turbos and superchargers are a bigger cause of engine failures than direct injection. The added heat and stresses that comes with forced induction, especially in small engines that are pushed hard to develop horsepower wears out engines prematurely.
Throttle body injection was even better than port injection, since the entirety of the intake system was getting cleaned with the fuel. No carbon deposits anywhere in the intake system.
As far as direct injection goes, it allows the injection event to happen independent of the valve timing which why the manufacturers dont want to abandon it. Also you could have more than one injection event during the combustion cycle to shape what whats happening in the cyclinder.
132,000 miles on my 2011 Audi A4 direct injected 2.0t. It runs great and I never have had any issues with carbon (other than the defective piston rings that plagued several years of these cars). Oil changes every 7000 to 9000 miles with Mobil 1 0w40 and top tier fuel. Also, I do not sit there like an idiot and idle my car for long periods of time. The car runs great and feels similar to when it was new. That is not to say it did not have a ton of problems… New pistons, piston rings, and turbo charger at 65,000 miles and a new timing chain tensioner at the same time.😂
My 1998 Honda Accord Coupe 2.0 VTECH manual ESI burns zero oil, no leaks, goes well, everything still works perfectly, remarkably no rust ! So why change it for anything else ? 👍🇬🇧
This video was spot on. I wish manufactures would do away with the turbocharged engines. Over a period of time, the turbo itself will need to be replaced. My next vehicle with either be a Toyota or Tesla.
To do that would require manufacturer to be honest and go back to 1990 where 330i means 3.0 six not a retarded 2 liter four. Let the factories close so the greedy bastards pay the price.
Thank you for this important video. Most people just don't get it. I've been working on vehicles for 63 years and the amount of engine failures is at epic proportions. Thank you again, God Bless, and stay safe, TMP from N.J.
35 year old nissan straight 6 MPI 1.3 million miles and still runs great. Back then Nissan said as long as you service the engine when it needs it that engine will continue to run forever almost. They were used as taxis back then and 1.5m to 2.5million miles was normal for these engines. It's what was called a Non Stressed engine and because of this they could run up millions of miles without any major issues. You won't ever see a modern engine do that. Most are lucky to see 100,000 miles before catastrophic engine failures.
Mark, Thank you for sharing the video! I understand that Toyota uses a combination of dual-port and direct injection technology to address carbon buildup issues. If this concept truly works as intended, I wonder why manufacturers like Mercedes haven’t adopted a similar approach. Do you have any insights on this?
Many of the Ford Engines are dual injection now. The Mustang 5.0 has been dual injection since 2018, previously port injection only. The Mustang 2.3 Turbo since 2015 was direct injection only. The new 2.3 Turbo in the 2024 Mustang is dual injection.
And why? Nothing is working except the few that were so great, so that didnt work... Thank you for sharing the drawbacks with all the waste do not help. Love the channel
Question. I had the 3.5l Ecoboost. With oil catch cans. I get. They collected a lot of oil. I just bought a brand new vehicle. With only the 3.5l. No turbos. Does the 3.5l still fall under this? Bad carbon buildup.
We have been programmed that engine flushing is a bad idea. I have never in my life seen more stuck rings, cylinder scoring, sludge, and carbon fouled engines in my life. All this can be eliminated with 1 or 2 cups of diesel added to crankcase and run for 20 minutes before changing oil. These modern crankcase ventilation systems have turned your engine into a garbage furnace. Changing your oil isn’t enough to stop the destruction.
I used to rip apart carbed engines 30 to 40 years ago and inlet valves were caked up and piston rings commonly stuck with carbon. We used to scrape the carbon from behind the rings. So even the carburettor fuel was not enough to get the PCV oil burnt with the fuel. Port fuel injection totally solved that and valves and rings would stay clean as the injector spray was enough to mix the PCV oil into the combustion mix. Come direct injection the oil cant mix in with combustion easy, ends up caking everywhere and eventually will take out the engine. Even valve seat areas suffer from the carbon.
Been good man, currently got 87,000 miles on it, pushing strong. Owned it for a year been very reliable, but I definitely I need to ask the guys who change my oil specially what oil they are using, you pointed out some good facts. I’m looking to keep this car well over 150,000 or more, with all regular maintenance up to date keep records of everything
I seriously doubt the manufacturer didn't see these issues during testing. In any case they want these small engines to feel big to the driver so these small turbos are set up to give a lot boost low in the rev range for that "flat" torque curve beginning below 2000 rpm.
I drive an 04 odyssey, paid a grand for it. 172 k miles. Other car is a grand marquis. Paid 2200 for it. Put about 2 grand in parts on both to get them up to speed.
Never been a fan of these flea-sized turbo engines. They may be quicker than their naturally aspirated counterparts, but many of them will fail much quicker too.
GOOD JOB,,,, but my suggestion is to everyone is this,,,,get a clean rust free car and put a carburator 305 or 350 rebuilt motor in it... ( it a basic power plant with no extras)....and NO HEADACHE until 700K mileage...( but always use high octane gas + syntetic oil with ZDDP add to it ) = long lasting,, smooth running motor !!!!!! YES not much power and 4 drops more of gas but you get a PEACE OF MIND,.,,(both ways you will pay but I would go with 4 drops more of gas vs. mechanic shop to rip my engine apart every 30K)
Long service oil may stay in grade but combustion by products and carbon in suspension will cause wear. Stop start tech will increase oil dilution and short journeys . Turbo charging small engines increases heat stress so will need more oil changes. 5 k oil changes are best for long engine life.
My wife has a 2022 Honda CRV with a direct injection 1.5 liter turbo charge motor. Honda recommended I have the dealer clean the top end of the motor every 30k miles for $180. What you think? Should I pay this every 30k or wait till 40k miles because this is overkill?
@ Sorry sir but she bought it and the engine came with the territory. I didn’t understand the issues DIEs could present in ownership. Its not the end of the world but I will have to keep after it and maintenance the engine properly.
DI isn't new - 2003, 2004 Isuzu Rodeos had it. it kinda caps engine life at 15-20 years because the high pressure fuel pumps start to die - & need a specialty shop to rebuild.
GM 6.2 engine. 2021/22/23 and 24 main bearing and some rod bearing on cadis and denalis are seizing up ., must of them with very little miles ., did you do a report on that ? If not pls do ., tnx
One part of the carbon fouling in DI engines is the design of the EGR. With nothing to wash the condensed oil vapor off the valves and runners, your designing the engine to fail after a too short life. Yes, I know I am oversimplifying but those with sufficient engine knowledge will understand.
The correct answer is to NOT get a car with a direct injected or turbocharged engine. I have put 389,000 miles (so far) on my 2006 Mercury Garand Marquis, with the port injected 4.6L 2 valve engine, using WALMART SuperTech 10w30 conventional oil, changed every 3,000 miles. That is some of the cheapest oil available. I have checked the cylinders with a borescope when changing the spark plugs, and found no sign of carbon buildup at all. The engine still runs like new. Properly maintained, these engines can go past 500,000 miles, even more if you replace the timing components at around 300,000, or if you hear any timing chain rattle.
Wow, finally someone who says exactly what i been saying. Word for word!! Excellent video!!!
Much appreciated!
Except no port fuel injection or and gasoline fuel injection system has ever premixed air and fuel prior to injection.
And MOST people put the cheapest fuel in their vehicle.
When you shut your hot engine off it leaves a layer of oil on the cylinder wall that does not drain away over night or even over weeks.
If what he is claiming were true ALL engined would have this issue and they simply don't.
The main and most important problem in the engineering and designing new motor vehicles is ( money ) _ they are manufactured with bad intention in mind to keep and maintain the industry at the consumer's expense
That is 100% correct!
Sad to say but……
Good old planned obsolescence and high income opps for the service department.
@@ECPP - @0:15 - Wow did not expect you to say direct injection.
German car industry is anyway soon history...they are closing factories.
The problem isnt DGFI, its the LV motor oil combined with lower ring tension. Use 5w30 in 5w20 motors, 5w40 in 5w30 motors and 0w30 in 0w20 motors and change your oil every 5k miles
best thing is to change oil more often.
100 percent true
Old school here. Every 3 months or 3,000Km.
I do it myself, cheaper that way, and I know it is done right with said oil.
isn't that way too much? there are literally manufacturers that only ask yearly or after 30.000 kilometers. 15.000 kilometers is a normal interval, and 10.000 is a strict one (although in my country 99% of brands ask for this last one - it makes them more money and with less risks).
@@luckyguy600 2005 Pilot with 270K. Oil has been changed every 5K from new with conventional oil and factory filter. It uses no oil between changes, and purrs like new. Same injectors. I run a 20 gallon spec'd Techron through there every 10K.
The best thing is to not buy a GDI engine. Buy a MPI engine and save you yourself a lot of money later on ....
Change your oil with synthetic every 5k miles with the filter, Use Tier 1 gasoline replace the PCV valve, spark plugs and coolant every 50k miles. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder.
If you have ever seen a racing engine with low to no tension piston rings using methanol as fuel you would understand how much the fuel matters!! They are spotless 😁
Nice and on assembly plastic gauging for best assembly practices which is a dying art these days
Why pcv valve?
It is not one size fits all. Every part has its lifetime. Take the spark plugs. Old style lasted 10k but Iridium changed that. Which coolant it is affects its lifetime as does the engine metallurgy. PCV valves and PCV system design all vary as well. Even pistons are not all the same because of rings type, cylinder machining, concentricity, tolerances, cooling from water, cooling with oil, and how it gets driven and what climate it is in. Just too many variables.
Like the videos. This just makes me want to hold on to my 2008 Lexus GX 470 with the old reliable V8. Sure the MPG isn't good and not fast like her Mini with the twin turbo but way more reliable. 16 years later and 200k miles and the V8 has had ZERO issues.
Yep- me 06 Tahoe 265k everything original everything working no oil consumption or leak. Same w/04 Suburban 150k now. Both are use for travel trailer towing. Parts everywhere if needed- I don't give sh... about MPG. insurance & tabs way cheaper
My 2005 LX 470 has 226,000 miles on it. Tomorrow, I'm taking it on a trip out of state. Yes, they use a lot of gasoline. But these engines go and go and go with minimal maintenance and repairs.
If your vehicle is reliable, just think how much you are saving by not throwing money into some thing that will depreciate like c razy, you can buy a .lot of fuel for that saving.
Watch Tuber The Car Care Nut for all your Toyota/Lexus maintenance needs. He services both of my Lexus's.
It's a keeper
The fuel dilution has more to do with the design of the injector or the design of the head where the injector is mounted. It can result in more fuel being sprayed onto the cylinder wall. This fuel can bypass the low tension rings getting into the oil. Oil does not mix well with fuel and can cause the sludge that blocks oil passages and causes engine failure.
Totally right. Also once the process starts, it just continues to add and compound the issued until a failure is imminent.
A soon as an engine becomes reliable, they are replaced with crappy engines
Seems to be the way
I recently bought a 2023 Honda Passport with the V-6 which has been around forever. I do wish it did not have DI but 5K oil changes with synthetic should help a bunch. There's a Passport offroad site where the owner took the vehicle in for the 100K service including valve adjustment. The mechanic showed the valves were quite clean and needed nothing. It had 5K synthetic oil changes and the mechanic swore by 5-30 in them for longevity.
@@davidanderson8469thats super new. That engine will have very tight tolerances. But I am told some kind of intake chemical is good to use at a good interval. My Honda 1.5 Turbo never got anything so chem is out of question at this point (130k miles). Someday I will have an endoscope peek at valves.
My favorite cars was the Pontiac Grand Prix from 1972 to 2008. It had that wraparound cockpit - and that pointy hood.
loved ny 74 sj 455
@ 👍
@ I had a1972 miss that car
Nice
I'm driving one of those W chassis myself, 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue, has the most powerful engine put into a W chassis, 3.5L Shortstar 😊
When my wife chose her 2023 Kia Soul in I knew what we were getting into. 😆 Then again you couldn't find a car on a Toyota or Honda lot and she needed one to replace the one she lost to a deer accident in 2022. I'm not going to get into the used offerings at the time in our area, needless to say for $23k it wasn't a lot of money in terms of what was out there used at the time, mostly rust buckets from New England. That 2.0L "Nu" engine is really noisy on cold start up, same as the one in the Forte. Interestingly enough I found a post online where someone switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and it helped quiet down the clatter (same viscosity) and I tried it so I switched from Mobil1 to PUP and it starts up a little quieter now. But that engine you need to change the oil every 3k miles, forget about 5k or 7.5k. Right now it's got 20k on the odo and doesn't burn any oil or at least none that I can see checking the dipstick once a week. I also only use 91 or 93 octane, the compression ratio on these is 12.5:1 and so I noticed it runs smoother with the higher octane. Sometimes I think the car shut off on me being a Kia because it's so quiet and the steering wheel has hardly any vibrations like you'd associate with a car of this price point. So I have to check the tach to make sure it didn't shut off, being a Kia I'm always half expecting it to shut off on me, I don't know why. The only thing that broke was the master window switch, we went through 2 of them because the first replacement was also bad from factory. I just need it to hold for 10 years at least, once the power train warranty runs out then I'll be happy I got 10 years out of it but who really knows, might be more or less. I intend on doing the CVT service every 30k miles, I'm not following the owner's manual there which is lifetime fluid, or under "severe service" schedule it says to flush the CVT fluid every 56k miles which I thought was an odd number.
Awesome and yes sometimes the economics just make
More sense the. Buying a 5 year old Toyota with hard use and 90,000 miles. If it serves the purpose. At least you are going in eyes wide open
56k miles = 90k km. The British did screw you with their metrics. Most stupid is mpg.
56.000 miles is approx 90.000 kilometers!
@@borisatanasovEngland invented imperial measurements.
Metric is the realm of France...
So Direct fuel injection, Absolutely Do Not go over 5000 miles on your oil especially if it's not a Vehicle driven on the Interstate highway Daily, Many short trips wrecks your oil, Oil is cheap engine's aren't.
Exactly right about that.
Dude if you're going over 5,000 mi for an oil change in any car you're an idiot there is no 10,000 mi oil change that's why we have all these used cars right now with clogged up gunked up engines cuz people thought oh yeah I'm going to use this oil that lasts 10,000 miles.....bullshit! 🙄
I agree, plus 10-20 thousand oil change interval suggested by car manufacturers is a bad idea, WAY too long IMO!🤔🙄🤨
Toyota have 2 types of injection on some of their cars, they combine the 'OLD' and the 'NEW', hopefully the OLD type partially cleans the back of the valves, perhaps a partial flow of, say kerosine could be fed by an injector into the inlet system to of a diesel try and clean the valves.
@@adoreslaurel sigh, sometimes I think these fuel saving trchnologies go too far, like stop-start engine tech, or turbos on economy cars. You save on fuel but these technologies seem to cost money in terms of engine wear and damage, so its kind of just a wash🤔😒
Excellent explanation.
Direct injection into the combustion causing fuel dilution of the engine oil is a big problem for all car manufacturers.
However, the car manufacturers are not honouring their car warranties, and are instead blaming the car owners for not maintaining their cars adequately. The issue is that the manufacturers have extended their maintenance intervals to far beyond what they should be for a direct injection engine. These DI engines need far more frequent oil changes.
Jaguars are well known for their engines failing due fuel dilution of the engine oil, requiring a full engine replacement.
You are right it always falls on us even if it’s not our fault
People drive their gdi turbo 4 bangers like they're old trucks. Never drive them hard while cold. Always warm them up to full operating temp. Top tier fuel and oil. Change oil early. I change my port injected N/A Honda 5000 KMS or 3000 miles. Go for a road trip every couple of months and blow that thing out.
Thanks for making an educational video and not just walking around a car lot talking shit. It is ironic for your intro to say “life is too short to drive boring cars” but you reviewed your personal Camry lol. Respect
You did an amazing job in this video. Subscribed
Thank you very much and welcome to the channel. Hope you are having a great day.
My 2019 Murano has 79K and hasn't missed a single beat. No start stop, no cylinder deactivation, no turbos, just good old fashioned naturally aspirated port injection. I change my oil every 3,000 miles or less. Never added a drop.😊 Never even had a single recall. Can't even say that for most Toyotas 😂
Cvt gonna give up soon.
You better knock on wood lol those and the rogues are huge turds 😂
I've changed the tranny fluid twice and really take care of it. If/when the transmission were to go I have a 15 year platinum extended warranty that will cover it. I've heard Rogues, Altimas and Sentras have the highest rate of transmission failure amongst the Nissan brand.
Are you really flexing a Nissan lmao
@joeyt6547 Everybody poo poos them but it's been the best vehicle I've owned and I've had a few including Hondas and Toyotas 🤷♂️
You are filming in front of a Benz engine, but I haven't seen many issues with carbon build up in the 2 liter 4 cylinder direct injection engines of MB. There were issues in US with broken pistons I believe, but those issues are not present in Europe where 95 is the minimum octane nr.
One of your best videos to date.
Well explained and the oil, how that has changed.
The driving with a cold engine section was very good too.
Well done sir.
Thank you! I appreciate your feedback. Hope you are having a wonderful weekend.
It seems to me just driving around people are really hard there vehicles, every start is a 0-60 full throttle run, these little engines for their size will get it, we never dreamed tiny lil 4 cylinder would ever pull like these engines, I’ve had two tiny lil 2.7 dual turbo F150’s and they’ve never missed a beat, but I don’t run them at full throttle at every start, I also never get on the engine till it’s warmed up and I never neglect oil changes. I 100% agree with installing a catch can.
Use ONLY Top Tier gasoline-look on the pump for label, This will keep injectors clean long term. Change the oil every 6 months or 5k miles. Try not to run engine for very short trips. It needs to be warmed up fully for maybe 15 minutes at least once per week to keep oil and crankcase free of moisture. Warm the engine up for 5+ minutes after coolant temp hits running temp before loading the engine. Cool down the turbo and bearings for 2 minutes minimum after running up a hill, highway, or any driving that loads the engine signifiganlty. . Change the coolant maybe every 5-6 years. Change the trans fluid every 40-50k miles or every 6 years. Look at the maintenance shedule before following any of this advice! Some types of vehicle need even more stringent care! The above is only what I do after a many years of learning. Read your manual! 10k oil changes are a very bad idea in my opinion.
I've been working on cars for 35 years, it doesn't matter what grade of fuel you buy, your engines Knock Sensor will will adjust your ignition timing so that it detonates the fuel/air mixture when it's suppose to and not pre-detonate the mixture. I don't get the full 302hp out of my direct injected Mercedes Benz, but who cares, it's still fast as hell and I save money.
Smart guy!
Let’s say you put in the best gas and more then regular oil changes will this help for the longevity?
Here in Europe the overcharged 3Cylinder 1.0l Ecoboost (called EcoBOOM)/ TSI engines have become the standard for the affordable cars! The expected life span is max 200k km! Cars (if they survive till then) become automaticaly worthless by reaching or exceeding the 200k km.
Yes that’s all by design in this throw away society
Replace the engine is cheaper than fixing it
@@destroyerarmor2846ding ding👍🏻
An how good is this for the environment if we are having to throw away these cars every 5 years
Excellent episode. I like the techie direction you went.
Direct Injection is fine, the best of both worlds is port and direct injection. A lot of people just don't change their oil or take care of their cars in general so that's also a contributing factor 🤷♂️
ECPP thank you for your concise analysis on the current state of the modern day drivetrain.
You are very welcome. I appreciate that. Have a great week.
I always look forward to seeing your informative videos Mark.
Some people think that they can change the weight of oil depending on the outside temperature. I go to a shop near my house and they never disappoint me in quality of the work they do on my car
Watched a lot of youtube on this subject. This is the most concise, so thanks for making the video.
One issue is lack of oil changes. People try to follow the manufacturer recommendations which are not good enough for turbo engines. The turbos use oil to cool and it cooks the oil really bad. If you have a turbo charged engine I would be doing oil changes every 3000-3500 miles even with synthetic oil. Naturally aspirated engines yeah every 5k is fine, but not for turbo charged engines. Also make sure you use oil with SN on the certification to reduce chances of instant catastrophic failure when starting a cold engine. Dave's Auto Center has a video on that problem. Glad you covered the LSPI issues it is sad some folks do not know they could blow their engine just starting it when cold outside. Excess fuel getting past the rings is usually not a problem for people that have longer commutes it gets burned out, but people with short commutes its a problem it never has time to burn off. Well done Mark:P
FWIW, turbos on economy cars seems like a bad idea, any money saved from fuel economy improvement will go toward turbo repair costs later on🤔🙄🤨
A little diy takes care of the carbon issue. I use a valve cleaning spray. I spray it after the Mass Airflow sensor. A cleaner like CRC valve cleaner has oil & detergent mixed in. Twice a year. Combined with high quality fuel & 5k mile oil changes.
120k miles on a 2016 SQ5, still running strong.
Just had an idea for a new piston crank system. You know how the piston Rams in and out which causes huge gforces on the piston, crank shaft and bearings.
Why not have a off set piston shaft, meaning it goes up at a angle, when hits end, there's a mild rotation at the piston shaft and rod where'd piston rod ends up at the other side of the piston and comes back down, same happens at bottom of piston.
So basically the piston rod is working at an elongated elliptical rotation, less sharp stop and both ends on piston travel.
What do you think, do you even get the picture what I'm trying to say lol.😂?
I add my own detergent during oil changes--usually Tide.
If you use the Tide with Downey, your exhaust fumes will smell April-fresh 😂
Tide is good.
@@itsallminor6133 Hmmmmm? When the Tide goes out you are now left with a VERY sandy engine!
Nice
Haha
This was finally a good video. Basically all new engines needs a catch can and a lot more oil changes plus often high load driving conditions in order to evaporate the gasoline from the oil. If you get your oil up to tempreture you will evaporate the lighter fraction the gasoline and unfortunately often oil changes would be required . We do have a sky active Mazda that is only direct injected but it is NA so we never had any issues only do regular oil changes and run the car hard on the high way. But the low power NA engine doesn’t suffer from a lot of blow by and crankcase pressure making it last a lot longer . So the major problem is not so much just the direct injection but also the firing pressure and the amount of hp per L of displacement. What use to be a norm only for sports cars now it is in daily driver. Most of this failures did exist before but they were in sports cars so the general public never felt it for example rally cars with turbo engines were making from 150 to 200 hp per L of displacement now even every day cars are having the same power per L of displacement all this power will lead to problems and this is the reality.
Great points and thanks so much for adding these great points to the video. Viewers need a bit of this info to halo make informed decisions
Wouldn't using high quality gasoline, such as Chevron with Techron help these engine issues? I have added a bottle of Techron monthly to my gas tank of my '08 Mercedes V8 and it runs great. Of course I use Chevron supreme gasoline as well. My engine has 62k miles and no issues to date.
Spitfires used carbs, and Me-109s used direct fuel.
The trouble with both was they seldom lasted 20 hours till they crashed or blew up.
Hopefully not my new M20A-FKS Toyota Corolla Cross engine won't blow up or crash!
When I change it I smell gasoline in the oil, as you pointed out. THAT is why I change my oil every 3 months or 3,000Km
Thats a great plan. Oil is cheap, engines are not.
I'm expecting delivery of Corolla Cross equipped with M20A-FXS 2 liter engine and the fact that you smell gasoline in oil within 3K kms sounds alarming.. do you use the car exclusively for commuting/short trips into town or highway use ?? thanks in advance for your reply
I have two Direct Injection engine vehicles. You have to use WOT now and again, regular oil changes are a must. Also an oil catch can and intake clean will help. One of my vehicles has 200k kms (2018 G80 sport) and no issues.
The old "Italian Tuneup". Works
Direct injection was first used on diesels. The thing about using it with gasoline is that you have far less margin for error. You get some carbon buildup, it starts glowing red hot around the edges and the next thing you know, you're pre-igniting and that's how you break an engine. I suggest if you have a late model car that you put a can of Sea Foam in the tank once a month to keep that carbon buildup down. You can also add some to your oil with every oil change to help resist sludge buildup.
I get 23mpg around town from my 2001 Jetta VR6 with a manual transmission. Regular old port injection. In a 2.8l 6 cylinder motor. Running the A/C. Was considered an ultra low emissions vehicle when new. State of the art.
The bar has moved since then but it still isn't bad by modern standards. It has even had a stage 1 tune. Not a lot of VR6s still on the road because people didn't take care of them. Cheaped out on fuel. Used the wrong oil to save a couple of bucks. It is critical to follow manufacturer specs. Most of the Mk IVs you see on the road have the bog standard old school 2l NA I4. You can run regular oil in them. You can run 87 octane fuel. That's what those engines were designed for. But if you do it with the turbo 1.8 or VR6, you are destroying your engine.
You never want to use lower octane rated fuel than specified. Even if the system can compensate to avoid knock, you're running at retarded timing, getting fouling, poor fuel economy and reduced power.
I absolutely loathe how modern automatic transmissions tend to be tuned. There's a lot of engine lugging going on which is bad for the engine and really not great for fuel economy or emissions when you put your foot down and the transmission doesn't downshift. The low speed running is great for mileage when you are cruising on the freeway but the moment you need to accelerate or add power while going up a hill, the transmission needs to downshift but it doesn't. Or you put your foot way into it and it downshifts too much, leaving your motor screaming away at 6,000 RPM.
Sad that the manual transmission is going away. I can handle an 8 speed manual without doing a money shift. I learned to drive a semi when I was younger, though I never actually drove one for a job because I ended up going into aviation. Most people in the US can't even handle a three on the tree these days. Automatic transmissions have always been a crapshow. But even more so today.
Back when I was driving cars with older 4 speed automatics, you could just set it on 3 for around town and the cars were reasonably responsive. Before they became electronic, you could just tweak your throttle valve to alter the shift points and make the transmission work more aggressively, downshifting sooner and upshifting later. With practice, you could learn how to precisely manipulate the throttle valve to make the transmission do what you wanted, when you wanted.
Modern automatics have 6, 7, 8 or even 9 speeds and they can't manage to make effective use of them. IDK how TF Elon Musk thinks he's going to make his driverless future happen when they can't even use modern technology to make an automatic transmission even the pickiest manual snob couldn't fault. A computer should be able to shift more accurately than I do, as someone who learned on a manual, still drives a manual and has a quarter million miles under their belt, but they simply can't figure out how to program them right and don't use enough data points to figure it out. By now, a car should know if you're going up a friggin hill and shift accordingly🤦♂🤡
Thanks to the proliferation of smartphones, the necessary sensors are cheap and readily available.
I feel good about my 2020 Camry 2.5 Dynamic Force engine having both types of injection. The MPG on my car is phenomenal. If I drove on a freeway for at least 500 miles I'm sure I would get over 40 MPG. I've taken shorter trips with a combined freeway, hills and curves, putting around town, and even some miles in the mountains (Sierra Mtns.) and have gotten 35.7 - 38.2 MPG! I'm amazed! The computer controls everything. How is the milage in your 2022 Camry, Mark?
Hey, you should try Lubrication Engineers oil. The problem has always been the PCV system. This oil has a very high vaporization ( like well over 400 degrees F ) so the carbon fouling is reduced. Try it out.
Buy a pre-2015 car outright. Buy a second one as a spare. That's what I've done and it's cost me £5k for both cars. Far cheaper than renting a car for 4 years, only to be far worse off!
Why I stick with my old beaters! I have three brothers that are Mechanics and saw the problems on the rise. I know of a man that his motor blew on the way home and he even had a dealership guy in the car with him. He ended up having to litigate with an attorney over the deal. New cars are GARBAGE! I have an 85 VW Jetta Diesel that runs and drives like I just bought it.
Direct Fuel Injection was invnetd over 125 years ago. If it was reliable it would have been in common use for 125 years.
Great point
hasnt direct injection been installed problem free both on diesels and petrol cars since the late nineties and without issues
Like you said, especially for turbo direct-injection engines, change the oil every 3K-5K miles if you want the engine to last.
100 percent
How about disconnecting the carterventilation and just let the gasses out in the open , just as the old days ?
You will get a lot less carbon and deposits .
Or place an oildivider between the rockercover and intake manifold , so cleaned air commes in ?
Not all engines use oil..my 2018 maserati levante doesnt use a drop between oil changes and has very little dilution and blowby.and i run it fairly hard..actually my toyota engi e uses more.strangely..so i guess it varies .
Yes it certainly
Does vary and
Many use almost none. It’s a total design with DI being a major
Contributor
Yes, very important Oil and specifications you showing up.
Engine Oil has to withstand all stress during the combustion, plus burnet very clear means minimum ash.
Direct injection Gas Engines are the same as Diesel Direct injected only lower compression with spark ignition and gasoline
Today new engines need the same engine Oil with the same specifications as Diesel Blutec Engines.
Have very modern Engine Oils up to 5W40 with those specifications.
I use in my GLS350d 5W40 MOTUL - LIQUI MOLY - Now I use PENTOSIN - I get a better price.
Those economic fuel-saving engine Oils damage the Valve Train is too light.
5W40 engine Oil is for today's cars with specifications that say low ash MB 229.52 (60/71) ( Euro 6 specifications and soon Euro 7 specs)
Those other 5W40 oils are very different from those 5W40 standard or old fashion oils.
Look on the DATA SHEET - you going to see Viscosity at 100C max 13.5 and a viscosity index of 200 or a little higher which is very important.
Old fashion 5W40 Viscosity at 100C 14.5 or even higher 17 - viscosity index 120
The viscosity index is very important for higher oil quality ( not affected by high and low temperatures to be degraded during the cycle of use.
In my BMW I use the same engine OIL 5W40 PENTOSIN Viscosity at 100C 13.5 viscosity index is 195 - low ash burning
LIQUI MOLY 5W30 4200 eng oil has one of the best viscosity at 100C 12.2 and a viscosity index of 200
Go to Google search for all kinds of engine Oils = DATA SHEET observe Viscosity at 100C and Viscosity index the highest - garbage oils have very low visc. index.
Some very good information and I appreciate you providing this as it may help other car owners. Sounds like you have done your research. Cheers
@@ECPP Engine Oils I divide new and Old styles or parameters.
Good mother oils up to 5W40 low ash ( The most new norms)
Viscosity at 100C is not higher than 13.5 ( 13 - 12.9 - 13.2)
A very important viscosity index up over 200, if can find one, is the best. LIQUI MOLY 5W30 4200 model is one of the best that we can get in Canada Viscosity at 100C is 12.2 Viscosity index of 200.
Oils with higher viscosity and older style going to kill the engine too.
Those modern engines are built with lubricated channels with very small diameters for very light engine oils to hold pressure in the Lub system.
When we use old-style oil 5W40 or 10W40 reducing oil flow in the lub system damages the engine.
Those very light engine Oils as 0W20 OW16 Viscosity at 100C 7.5 up to 10 and an index of 130.
For that reason killing the engines.
Lab Fuel economy test is for how much can save = during a 1 year can save 2 or 3 liters of fuel.
This is true - governments need those numbers for their propaganda.
Why is no one word about why engines can't last?
Why is the Government not saying long-lasting engines are less polluting?
change oil 4k max miles not 8k plus only use top shelf valvoline or ?
More ferquent changes is best as oil is chep but engines are not
Excellent advise everyone should follow. 0w motor oils take a beating.
I would say vehicles that were made between 1987-2010 were the right combination of technology and durability. The previous 10 years before they sucked since the auto manufacturers were trying to adapt. After that in 2011 they were try to adapt again causing all kinds of issues. I sure miss these vehicles made between 1987-2010. Another advantage of those vehicles is you could still work on them and they didn't cost a fortune to buy. I would also add that pre 1974 vehicles were also nice since they had much horsepower and not all the epa nonsense. This is when vehicles were absolutely beautiful with design and style. In fact they had women in swimsuits that advertised them. You look at the modern day car they look boring and cheap like someone without any style putting them together. There is no more sexiness about most of these vehicles just efficiency.
I would say the gold standard for Toyota was 1998-2010.
Then they decided to go market share and build a lot more cheaper quality cars.
First gen highlander made in Japan.
@guruofendtimes819 Good example I had a 2012 Ford Focus. At 95k I started having problems with the stupid transmission. I had these problems until I sold it with 140k. The previous models 2010 and earlier had the normal old school transmission and with general maintenance you could easily get 250k on that vehicle. The sad thing is the dealership only would replace the clutch once since I got it in just under 100k and then the computer at 125k. They said it was my baby after that. At 140 it started doing the jerking nonsense so I took the grounds off since it's primarily electric controlled and cleaned them out new dielectric grease on and that worked for 5 thousand miles until it did it again and then I sold it.
2 last cars i had, approx same weight, one of them gdi and one port injected. The port injected use 15% less fuel, so are there any pros at all for gdis? I think not. Engines should never be downsized with turbo, they will live under constant enormous stress.
Thank you for important information. 👍
So nice of you
They need to move the direct injection above the intake valves shoot fuel onto the valve and then gets sucked in, this would keep the valves clean.
Auto manufactures have become like lemmings. If one of them, does it they all do it.
Yes true and sad
Fuel is important even in direct injection engines. Using "Top Teir Fuel" with the correct Octane rating will help. These fuels are blended with additives to clean the upper top of the piston and into the rings somewhat.
Cheap fuels can be 91 octane but do not provide the detergent additives t the same degree. Always use "Top Tier Fuels". Shell has the Top Tier Fuel posted on their pumps.
See The Oil Geek for the chemistry about oils and the use of quality fuel to prevent Low Speed Pre-Ignition. Some times you do get what you pay for.
True, correct octane is always important and not having a quality. grade can stil cause engine damage in other ways. Always important .
the problem is not the DIRECT INJECTION in itself, it's the EGR valves installed on ALL cars who meet Euro-6 emission normative. The EGR valve takes part of exhaust gasses and redirects them into intake manifold to cool down the combustion chamber and reduce NOx gasses and because of this recirculation system it builds carbon and oil on your intake valves, but since there's no more port injection, nothing else can clean your intake valves. The oil dilution is cause by OPF/GPF filters, in order them to operate they need to be in a certain range of temperature like on diesels, so in order for them to regenerate aka all the PM10 soot burn down to PM2, the engine shoots a little bit of gasoline into the chamber and leaves with gasses to then do the post ignition into your OPF filter. Obviously not all gasoline will leave the chamber and a small amount will dilute with the oil but overtime it will accumulate. So change your oil every 5k miles because gas is a solvent and it will wash your cylinders from oil.
Still enjoying another 2014 Camry SE v6 I found a few months ago off one owner. Had 37k original miles and I paid $8k cash for it.
You stole that car! Nice buy.
Toyotas D4S is reliable. They've been using it for around a decade now. More OEM'S need to care more about this issue and not writing it off to expected maintenance. It's sad in 24 manufacturers still use GDI only
Ypu are right Mikey, I agree, the dual system is such a great design and not sure why many don't go that route. Well actually it always comes down to cost. If they all did it right, there would be much fewer problems in the biz.
Forced induction like Turbos and superchargers are a bigger cause of engine failures than direct injection. The added heat and stresses that comes with forced induction, especially in small engines that are pushed hard to develop horsepower wears out engines prematurely.
Throttle body injection was even better than port injection, since the entirety of the intake system was getting cleaned with the fuel. No carbon deposits anywhere in the intake system.
As far as direct injection goes, it allows the injection event to happen independent of the valve timing which why the manufacturers dont want to abandon it. Also you could have more than one injection event during the combustion cycle to shape what whats happening in the cyclinder.
this is exactly why i love old cars, built to last, and cheap to maintain
132,000 miles on my 2011 Audi A4 direct injected 2.0t. It runs great and I never have had any issues with carbon (other than the defective piston rings that plagued several years of these cars).
Oil changes every 7000 to 9000 miles with Mobil 1 0w40 and top tier fuel. Also, I do not sit there like an idiot and idle my car for long periods of time.
The car runs great and feels similar to when it was new.
That is not to say it did not have a ton of problems… New pistons, piston rings, and turbo charger at 65,000 miles and a new timing chain tensioner at the same time.😂
My 1998 Honda Accord Coupe 2.0 VTECH manual ESI burns zero oil, no leaks, goes well, everything still works perfectly, remarkably no rust ! So why change it for anything else ? 👍🇬🇧
This video was spot on. I wish manufactures would do away with the turbocharged engines. Over a period of time, the turbo itself will need to be replaced. My next vehicle with either be a Toyota or Tesla.
To do that would require manufacturer to be honest and go back to 1990 where 330i means 3.0 six not a retarded 2 liter four. Let the factories close so the greedy bastards pay the price.
Mercedes have no issue at all. Oil use is zero.
Thanks for sharing and our car burns no oil
Agree mine is 2008 and doesn’t burn any oil. My wife’s Audi 2015 burns a quart of oil every few thousand miles!
Thank you for this important video. Most people just don't get it. I've been working on vehicles for 63 years and the amount of engine failures is at epic proportions. Thank you again, God Bless, and stay safe, TMP from N.J.
Well said! I appreciate your support. Have a wonderful week.
One of the most compelling videos I have seen in convincing me more than ever that an EV is the way to go.
Thanks.
Great Vlog again Mark.
Thanks 👍
35 year old nissan straight 6 MPI 1.3 million miles and still runs great. Back then Nissan said as long as you service the engine when it needs it that engine will continue to run forever almost.
They were used as taxis back then and 1.5m to 2.5million miles was normal for these engines. It's what was called a Non Stressed engine and because of this they could run up millions of miles without any major issues. You won't ever see a modern engine do that. Most are lucky to see 100,000 miles before catastrophic engine failures.
Mark,
Thank you for sharing the video! I understand that Toyota uses a combination of dual-port and direct injection technology to address carbon buildup issues. If this concept truly works as intended, I wonder why manufacturers like Mercedes haven’t adopted a similar approach. Do you have any insights on this?
It’s why I luv my Corvette LS engine..They run forever…GM went to direct injection & cylinder deactivation in the LT engines in 2014…No thanks
Great point!
Many of the Ford Engines are dual injection now. The Mustang 5.0 has been dual injection since 2018, previously port injection only. The Mustang 2.3 Turbo since 2015 was direct injection only. The new 2.3 Turbo in the 2024 Mustang is dual injection.
And why? Nothing is working except the few that were so great, so that didnt work... Thank you for sharing the drawbacks with all the waste do not help. Love the channel
You're welcome! Thanks for the watch. Cheers
Question. I had the 3.5l Ecoboost. With oil catch cans. I get. They collected a lot of oil. I just bought a brand new vehicle. With only the 3.5l. No turbos. Does the 3.5l still fall under this? Bad carbon buildup.
We have been programmed that engine flushing is a bad idea. I have never in my life seen more stuck rings, cylinder scoring, sludge, and carbon fouled engines in my life. All this can be eliminated with 1 or 2 cups of diesel added to crankcase and run for 20 minutes before changing oil. These modern crankcase ventilation systems have turned your engine into a garbage furnace. Changing your oil isn’t enough to stop the destruction.
Yes too much “holding it all in” causes a lot of problems
I used to rip apart carbed engines 30 to 40 years ago and inlet valves were caked up and piston rings commonly stuck with carbon. We used to scrape the carbon from behind the rings. So even the carburettor fuel was not enough to get the PCV oil burnt with the fuel. Port fuel injection totally solved that and valves and rings would stay clean as the injector spray was enough to mix the PCV oil into the combustion mix. Come direct injection the oil cant mix in with combustion easy, ends up caking everywhere and eventually will take out the engine. Even valve seat areas suffer from the carbon.
I follow you because we both own the same car lol, so its always nice to hear what you have to say
Awesome. Thanks for watching. How has yours been so far?
Been good man, currently got 87,000 miles on it, pushing strong. Owned it for a year been very reliable, but I definitely I need to ask the guys who change my oil specially what oil they are using, you pointed out some good facts. I’m looking to keep this car well over 150,000 or more, with all regular maintenance up to date keep records of everything
Toyota uses both Direct Injection and Port Injection to alleviate the carbon build up. The Port injection is for specific conditions.
Well done, very informative video
Thank you very much
I've been dealing with that was a 2014 Tiguan was misfiring five different codes and I know it's because of the carbon buildup on the valves.
Thanks Soo much for sharing. Soo informative 🙌🏾🙌🏾
You are welcome
Diesel will remain the King of Fuel 😎
Compression Ignition
I seriously doubt the manufacturer didn't see these issues during testing. In any case they want these small engines to feel big to the driver so these small turbos are set up to give a lot boost low in the rev range for that "flat" torque curve beginning below 2000 rpm.
I drive an 04 odyssey, paid a grand for it. 172 k miles. Other car is a grand marquis. Paid 2200 for it. Put about 2 grand in parts on both to get them up to speed.
WMI should be factory installed by now to prevent this, but too many people would poison themselves or catch something on fire 😬
Excellent content, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
You absolutely saw carbon fouling in the intake due mandated EGR systems on systems that didn't do EGR by adjusting valve overlap.
Never been a fan of these flea-sized turbo engines. They may be quicker than their naturally aspirated counterparts, but many of them will fail much quicker too.
There is simple solution used by Lexus - direct injection and port injection in same engine. This way you can get best from both solutions.
it's that way by design so you're forced to trade-in! It's a racket!!
Smaller engines being forced to work harder. Higher mechanical speeds increase stress/fatigue failure.
Yes premature failure
Most nowadays cars are made with mass production in mind, not maintenance/service.
100 percent
GOOD JOB,,,, but my suggestion is to everyone is this,,,,get a clean rust free car and put a carburator 305 or 350 rebuilt motor in it... ( it a basic power plant with no extras)....and NO HEADACHE until 700K mileage...( but always use high octane gas + syntetic oil with ZDDP add to it ) = long lasting,, smooth running motor !!!!!!
YES not much power and 4 drops more of gas but you get a PEACE OF MIND,.,,(both ways you will pay but I would go with 4 drops more of gas vs. mechanic shop to rip my engine apart every 30K)
Long service oil may stay in grade but combustion by products and carbon in suspension will cause wear. Stop start tech will increase oil dilution and short journeys . Turbo charging small engines increases heat stress so will need more oil changes. 5 k oil changes are best for long engine life.
The 3.5 toyota (300 HP V6) has direct injection + port injection.
Best of both worlds with NO turbo!!
AND 27 to 37 MPG!!
My wife has a 2022 Honda CRV with a direct injection 1.5 liter turbo charge motor. Honda recommended I have the dealer clean the top end of the motor every 30k miles for $180. What you think? Should I pay this every 30k or wait till 40k miles because this is overkill?
OUCH cleaning a head ........should have gone w/ Naturally Aspirated engine / NON turbo I.e. a LEXUS W Direct and port injection
@ Sorry sir but she bought it and the engine came with the territory. I didn’t understand the issues DIEs could present in ownership. Its not the end of the world but I will have to keep after it and maintenance the engine properly.
DI isn't new - 2003, 2004 Isuzu Rodeos had it. it kinda caps engine life at 15-20 years because the high pressure fuel pumps start to die - & need a specialty shop to rebuild.
GM 6.2 engine. 2021/22/23 and 24 main bearing and some rod bearing on cadis and denalis are seizing up ., must of them with very little miles ., did you do a report on that ? If not pls do ., tnx
Toyota uses direct injection with port injection to clean the top of the valves. This is what all manufacturers should do, but don't.
One part of the carbon fouling in DI engines is the design of the EGR. With nothing to wash the condensed oil vapor off the valves and runners, your designing the engine to fail after a too short life. Yes, I know I am oversimplifying but those with sufficient engine knowledge will understand.
The correct answer is to NOT get a car with a direct injected or turbocharged engine. I have put 389,000 miles (so far) on my 2006 Mercury Garand Marquis, with the port injected 4.6L 2 valve engine, using WALMART SuperTech 10w30 conventional oil, changed every 3,000 miles. That is some of the cheapest oil available. I have checked the cylinders with a borescope when changing the spark plugs, and found no sign of carbon buildup at all. The engine still runs like new. Properly maintained, these engines can go past 500,000 miles, even more if you replace the timing components at around 300,000, or if you hear any timing chain rattle.