1990-1997 Accord Brake Job (Captive Rotor Replacement) Hub Over Rotor Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2014
- Part 1 : Removal
In this video I show you how to replace captive rotors on 1990-1997 Accords.
On captive rotor designs also referred to as a rotor over hub design the rotor is bolted behind the hub. Which makes it more time consuming to remove than the more common rotor over hub design where the rotor sits on top of the hub.
The job isn't too bad but it will take considerably longer than a more common rotor over hub brake job which you may be familiar with due to the extra steps involved. So be sure to give yourself some extra time.
The axle nut unstaking tool is SP Tools part number 65400.
The long bolts used are M10 X 1.25 X 100mm.
"Welcome To The Show" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Due to factors beyond the control of Bushougoma, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Bushougoma assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Bushougoma recommends safe practices when working with the tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Bushougoma. 
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Part 1 and part 2 gave me the confidence to do this job on my own without having some else do it for me, I’ve done brake pad rotors jobs in the past but never a captive rotor job… thanks for your videos 👍🏽
Just finished my brake pads, rotors and CV axles on my 90 Accord and I couldn't have done it without your two videos. Saved me some serious scratch...Many thanks for the upload. Cheers!
Dude, more videos!!! I keep checking your channel like every other day for more stuff to keep my 97 accord running. You have a devoted following, Bousho! Keep it coming!
What a huge amount of work to get at rotors.
Yes unnecessary work - most retarded setup I have ever seen for rotors and hubs...
I'm glad I sold my 94 Accord. It needed brakes too....LOL
What a Mind numbingly stupid design by Honda.
he should used a slide hammer puller ... www.kingtony.com/upload/products/9BQ01_1.jpg much faster and easy
and yes strange that the hub and disk are stuck together .
@@mymojoworkin The bolt-on hub is nice, but this is the Achilles heel of the design :C
loved the video, I put a blanket on the hood, then my laptop on the blanket and kept it to the video to review parts that I couldn't remember or needed to see again. The job went as you showed. I followed all the steps. Did not have any power tools, so i did it all manually with sockets, cheater bars and elbow grease.... worked great. Took me awhile to find the right size piece of metal to help break the lower wheel bearing joint loose, but even that was great. No need to rent special tools. There were a couple places in the video where the lighting was a bit dark, but over all it was great. thanks for putting in the time to do this.
Thanks for posting this.
Other videos do it differently and are more difficult.
Using the bolts and the air hammer made this easy.
This helps that you sound like my boss in real life. I'm dreading the repair. But thanks to your very detailed steps steps. I should be able to hopefully change mine in my 97
Thanks for the detailed video, because of it I decided to pay a mechanic $30 a side for break pad/rotors 😂
Extremely helpful video! I had no idea what I was in for, and this has really helped. Beware of the captive nut. So far it is the part that's caused the most pain and suffering. I'm expecting to have to buy two new ones after all the damage they took getting them out.
Thanks for posting this! Helped me replace the captive rotors on my honda! I appreciate it!
Excellent video, nice job especially your ability to improvise and and actually get the job done. thank you
awesome video i really appreciate the quality seriously amazing and the bolt size was just the icing on the cake!
I watched a friend struggle with this for two days and was really dreading it but after this video i feel confident to do this thanks!
1) Outstanding video...esp showing alternative methods when one doesn't have "the good tools"
2) GRRRRRRRR I have to do all this to change rotors!!!!!! GRRRRRRRRRRR
This technique WORKS! Just did my sons bearings and rotors! THANKS ALOT!
Really well done video! Great audio and well explained!
Thanks for uploading this video. I have a 1996 Accord and this video is a great guide to help me replace my brakes and rotors.
Great Video....Extremely specific...LOVED IT!
Absolutely amazing video my man you deserve a million likes
Wow... I watched some "generic" brake rotor/pad replacement DIY videos and was feeling pretty confident but I figured I should find a video specific to my car. Thank you for going so in depth showing what is involved with changing a captive rotor on these cars. I started laughing several times at how much more complex/difficult this is.
Matthew Geyer On most vehicles it is pretty much the same process remove the wheel, remove the caliper, remove the caliper bracket, and pull the rotor off the studs. This is one of the exceptions to the rule.
I'd love to know why the engineering team decided to make a quick and simple job more time consuming and complicated.
I'm sure they got the message though since the next generation Accord (beginning in 1998) had the standard rotor over hub design.
After 8 years of a complex design they realized how time consuming it was to replace a rotor . I guess their engineers had a slow brain processing system to change the design.
This guy deserves a million likes
Excellent tips and by far, the best video out there on preforming these procedures.
I can see you need a wire wheel attachment for a drill and a bench top grinder with a wire wheel instead of using sandpaper for cleaning off that rust.
If I can find one that works with my air die grinder and doesn't rapidly disintegrate and sling the wires off on my arms. You'd be surprised as tiny and light as they are how much they sting.
YESSSS!! I've been waiting for this! You rock, Bousho!
Very detailed. great info... have a 97 acura 3.0 cl. will save a lot of time. thanks!!!
You made this possible for me. Thank you.
i like ur detail on bolts and spec on parts.... help me out a lot thanks...part 1 and 2
Great video I'll be taking mine into the shop screw that job
Forreal lmfao 😂
Thanks so much. Superbly done. Hopefully whichever engineer thought this was a great design is now in one of Dante's levels.
I have to add that I hope it is the same person who thought it would be a great idea to make the fuel pump completely inaccessible unless one dropped the whole tank. Things could be so much simpler.
I have to add that I hope it is the same person who thought it would be a great idea to make the fuel pump completely inaccessible unless one dropped the whole tank. Things could be so much simpler.
Excellent video. Thank you
this is a good tutorial thanks for posting!
Just found your channel, glad I did. Like your teaching style, to the point and matter of fact. I try to do the same on my vids. New sub for you. Now I have to go watch all your old stuff haha. I was watching this one cause my trooper has these captive rotors. Pain in the a
nice videos props for the audio overlays
Great video ever.you are the best.thankyou
Thanks man! The memories of these brake jobs are flooding back right now.
This job sucks for a consumer and rocks for a shop. Wonder what Honda's take on that is? LOL.
That was very helpful thank you
This was very informative thx you
What a nutty lot of extra work to get the axle nut off. All the BS setup with the board holding the brake is an unnecessary waste of time. Before lifting the car, set the rear parking brake, remove the front hubcap, and loosen the axle nut before ever raising the car off of the ground.
Tips for loosening stuck axle nuts: Make sure the depressed "lock" part of it is bent well up out of the way. If it protrudes into the groove even a little bit, the nut will be very tough to remove, even with a long pipe on your breaker bar. Soak with penetrant the day before. If necessary, heat part of it red hot. Once I encountered one that was so mangled, I had to use a grinder to remove that part of the nut. If this happens, swap the axle nuts from one side of the car to the other so they will seat in a different location when they are re-installed.
Don't forget about the Pick n Pull. With these cars now 20 years old, they're easy and cheap to find parts for. If it all goes south with lots of broken bolts and rust and so on, just go to the junkyard and pick up a "new" knuckle assembly for $25. (Of course, make sure the bearing assembly and lower ball joint are tight before buying it!) Also, don't forget the wagons have larger brakes than the sedans and coupes, they don't interchange.
Happy motoring.
I found those bolts at Lowe's for anyone's information. Don't go to Home Depot they don't have the bolts. Thanks Bushougoma!
exelent video thanks!!
Great vid btw......thank you.
thanks i like your method with the longs bolts and using a air hammer or a big hammer
Nice vid not as complicated as i thought although when i replaced the axle shaft and pads on the passenger side i went ahead and took the caliper and bracket off as one piece instead of together after compressing the piston.
There is another method for removing the axle nut, although it's kind of ghetto. for driverside nut, place the socket/breaker-bar on the nut with the handle end of bar touching the pavement & facing toward back of car. Start car & drive backwards & allow the vehicle's mass & rearward motion crack nut loose. For passenger side, & we're assuming standard N. American configuration & right-handed threads here, place breaker-bar on nut with handle on pavement & facing toward front of vehicle & drive forward. Make sure socket is an IMPACT unit, six-point, with a good fit on the nut. Last thing you wanna do is round the corners off, because it's a real pain to have to cut that nut off with out accidentally grinding on the threads. If socket pops off the nut, you may need to repeat process once or twice before the nut cracks loose from its seating.
He made it look easy while we're still struggling 🙄
Damn. I did not know Honda did those rotors that way. What a pita to remove
please correct me if I'm wrong but did you say 36 mm for the axle nut
He did
rewind the vid.
Gracias
OMGs, I am seriously happy that you took this time to make this video!!!.. I was going to have to spend well over 200 bucks to get mines removed and install.. But Now that i've seen this video, I am sure I can do this job.. Thank you
i wanted to take the time and thank you also. by NO means am i a mechanic, but i can do general car maintenance jobs, brakes, rotors, oil changes.....and maybe two more handfuls of car maintenance jobs, but i've never replaced/heard of a captive rotor until your video. when my 97 accord lx starting (out of nowhere) making a grinding noise, i parked it immediately. when i replaced the front brake pads i found the outer passenger pad was ground down to metal and of course the rotor had a dull unpolished look from the metal on metal and slight grooves on that side of it. yet all three other pads had PLENTY of life left in them. from your knowledge, what would make (besides getting that "one" defective pad) a brake pad go that quickly while the other three remained relatively the same thickness. and why wouldnt i have heard it until it was metal on metal? since the job was WAY to much for me to do i just replaced the pads and put everything back together. which i know isnt the best thing to do, but for right now in my life paying a mechanic ($225 was my quote) to do the job wasnt an option and i need the car for work.
Damn it , I thought accords had rotors over hub .
I give you a lot of credit for handling that job. Can't you just order a new hub assembly with new bearings installed?
This video is all fine and dandy on the process but when you have a neglected vehcile not maintained by someone mechanicly inclined and a wheel bearing thats been on for years, youre going to need a torch and vice. I had to remove the axle because it was seized in by rust. If you are not experienced DO NOT attempt this job it is not as easy as it seems here..
Thanks a lot.
I have 1993 sedan and 1992 coupe, in which I have to replace both rotor and bearings. I have heard that bearing job is not the easiest thing in our galaxy.
Sedan has 'non -rotor' rear brakes (I don't know the English word for them). That was surprising to me. Bare my English.
OSOCO drum brakes ? :)
Do you know if this is the same way to do a 97 Acura cl?
Great video, thanks a TON!! Just to clarify and make sure I didnt' miss something, the ABS wheel speed sensor plugs into the knuckle, not the hub assembly, correct?
What air hammer do you use? It does a nice job. Thanks Mike
I like how as he bends the cotter pin back and forth to break it off with his right hand, his left hand is twisting back and forth in sympathy with his right in the lower left of the screen at 12:07--12:10
For that much work, I see no reason not to replace the bearing every time the rotors get swapped. Way too much work to do over again.
Exactly. I would do the hub assembly.
what size are the bolts that hold bearing to the knuckle? m10x1.25x40?
What kind of impact were you using ? Hve a 93 accord and I need to do my rotors
Where did you use the floor jack to lift the front of the vehicle off the ground? Thanks!
You have done it again: Perfect, detailed and exact Video! Great Job!
Did you use Honda rotors? Will an Electric 1/2" drive impact be able to remove axle nut?
No just high quality aftermarket get at least the mid range from any of the name brand brake parts suppliers and you'll be fine. I recommend ceramic pads on the front because that's what the 94-97 Accords had stock. Will cheap pads work? Sure but they'll make a racket every time you step on the pedal and create excessive brake dust.
Most of the cheap corded 1/2" impacts I've seen top out at around 250 ft lbs max. I've never been able to make them work on anything but easy to loosen wheel lugs. The impact I used here tops out at 780 foot pounds so no I doubt an electric would do anything other than make a racket.
I've seen cordless impacts that come within 100 foot pounds or so of my pneumatic but they're around 430 bucks. My 1/2" pneumatic cost half that and I don't have to mess with batteries.
An air compressor is an investment IMO once you have a decent sized one you'll find pneumatic tools for it are cheaper than their cordless counterparts.
What is the torque on the 36mm nut I don't believe you mention it.Great video! very detailed and informative. I have to do my niece's 96 accord and I will be referring to this video.Thank you!
Can you please do a video for the rear brakes?
Can you link the bolts you bought. I can’t seem to find them to buy
hey what type of impact do you have and it looks small what size is it looks like it works well i like the sound too haha
I need to replace one lug nut screw. So I just need to remove the hub from my 95. Do I have to remove all that? Or is there an easier way?
What size are those bolts to get off the rotors in the front???
What is the torque on that 36mm nut? anyone know?Thank you
I could not do what you do at 18:30. Used the air hammer and everything. It would not budge. Guess I have to take the whole thing to a machine shop.
I also cannot get the axle nut off the other side. I need to take it to a shop and have them loosen it or rent a giant impact gun. This brake design is so ridiculous.
What about replacing the calipers as well?
wire wheel not sandpaper....great video! what is the depth of your mystery metal bar to knock out the ball joint? wire wheel you're done cleaning it up in 30 seconds...
Just a random piece of metal from my scrap pile it was about 1" wide.
I don't use a drill for cleaning parts I normally use a cookie wheel on my air die grinder but I was all out. Don't think I even have a wire wheel for my drill anymore my die grinder spoiled me.
As a side note don't use wire wheels on air tools. The RPM is way too high the wires break away and embed themselves into your clothes. It really hurts when one finds some exposed skin learned that one first hand.
What is the little tool that looks like a screw driver
Where did you get the longer bolts
God damnit Honda, why? why the fuck?
oefel If it's well engineered and easy to service re engineer it until it's not seemed to be the moto there.
I could never get my head around why they literally reinvented the wheel on how nearly all rotors are mounted to the hub by being inserted over the wheel studs.
Probably the same engineering team that built the engine around the fuel filter. That's also a fun one to replace.
To take the axle nut off. Is it okay to use a 36 mm 12 point axle nut socket. Or should I get something else??
Depends on how tight it is if it was last installed very tight like with an impact you may end up rounding it off with a 12 point as you have less surface area.
I absolutely cannot for the life of me get the axle nut off even with a 24 inch breaker bar. I also stripped one of the 4 bolts on the front hub
You don't have nearly enough leverage to remove the axle nut. I wouldn't attempt it with a breaker bar unless I had at least 8 feet worth of of 3/4" pipe on the end of the breaker bar the longer the pipe the more torque you can apply. Even with 8 feet of pipe it can still be challenging.
Occasionally if it's on really tight you may just end up breaking the breaker bar in that case either it's time to step up to a 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket or find a shop with impact tools to loosen the nut for you.
You have to be careful with the hub nuts they are special fasteners that have a shallow hex and if your socket isn't on them flush they will round off easily. You can purchase bolt out sockets that will grab rounded fasteners.
Before you attempt to use them though hit the back of the hub (where the bolts go through) with penetrating oil and let it soak in for awhile. There's a gap in the splash shield by the caliper bracket rotate the wheel to expose all four fasteners and spray them.
I've taken the axle nut off my front passenger wheel with a 12 inch breaker bar. It's tough, but possible.
he said make sure you can get axle nut off first or you cant do the job. So how you strip a bolt if you cant get axle nut off?
Hey, I may have a bad front bearing. When I replace the rotors/brakes, what's the best way to test the bearing? Assuming it's bad, is it feasible to remove it from the hub after it's removed from the knuckle (at about the 26 minute mark). How do you recommend I pull the old one out? I've seen videos of funky shop tools to do this and people using grinders/chisels to crack the inner race. How would you do it?
Use the method I used in the steering wheel shake video with the wheel still on and the vehicle off the ground grab it and check it for play. If the movement is between the hub and knuckle the bearing is bad. Bad bearings also make a very distinctive noise while driving.
There are multiple methods to replace them but they have one thing in common you have to separate the inner from the outer race and pull or cut the inner race off the hub.
They make slide hammers that attach to the wheel studs and will pull the inner race from the outer race with the bearing still bolted to the knuckle. The low tech method is to put a large socket on the inner race and drive it out along with the hub.
Then you'll have the hub with the inner race still pressed on.
They also make special tools to pull the race off the hub but it's not needed. You can cut it partially with a dremel or die grinder with a cutting wheel (not all the way through you don't want to cut into the hub) then open the cut with a chisel. That will release the tension and the race will easily slide off.
The replacement bearing can be pressed into the hub with a shop press or a hammer and socket. Just make sure the rubber lip seal on the bearing is facing the back of the hub.
In any case separating the races poses the risk of permanently damaging the bearing so you only want to do this if you intend to replace it. It's not a good idea to use this method to speed up a rotor replacement for example.
I personally use a slide hammer to separate the races, a cutting wheel to remove the inner race from the hub, and a shop press to press the hub into the new bearing. But other than some type of abrasive wheel cutting tool the other special tools aren't necessary.
Well, looks like this old beater Accord I just bought is getting pad-slapped 🤣 F all that.
Where can I get those bolt to remove the rotor and hub assembly
Any home improvement store should have them.
I wonder what honda was charging for this job ?
at 18:07, I tried to take these four bolts off. Even after lots of pb blaster and waiting an hour, I broke 3 of the four bolts trying to take them out. Any suggestions for tools to get the other bolt pieces out, and do you know what the name of the replacement bolts for these are?
sona11111111 same thing happened to me. How did it turn out for you?
I tried to drill them out, took hours and didnt really work. I ended up renting a ball joint remover tool from autozone and taking off the knuckle completely. I positioned it on top of a few bricks and took a sledgehammer to the middle. After maybe 20 minutes of persistence at this I managed to separate it. However this left part of the bearing on the separate part which I could not pry off so I ended up having to get a replacement bearing too.
sona11111111 thanks for the reply, I'll give it a try.
I use a slide hammer when I've done them, or remove assembly and do it with a press... generally the slide hammer Works tho no problem, and you can be done in a half hour,
Splitting apart a bearing like that will cause damage and is not recommended. Slide hammers are great for removing bad bearings but should never be used on ones you intend to reuse.
I'm all for shortcuts but not when the shortcut leads to additional work down the road.
@@Bushougoma I get it, but having worked for Acura ( the Acura Vigor used a captured rotor same as accord ) me and the other 27 guys in the shop never had an issue... just saying, not hating(, and no, they did not come back later with a bearing noise)
hey brother how are you?
i changed the rotors and pads on my 97 honda, but i only got done with one because it started to rain. I drove the car and when i press on the brakes it sounds like if bare metal was hitting, i checked it but nothing looks out of the ordinary, can it be because i havent done the other side? thanks hopefully ill hear from you soon
+Jose Molina Rubbing metal is usually the wear indicator on the pad scraping the rotor indicating the need for pad replacement. It all depends on how worn the pads on the other side are.
If it sounds like it's coming from the side where the work was done. Check the ball joint stud and make sure it's properly seated in the lower control arm and the fastener is tightened down securely.
Check the metal splash shield if it got bent it will rub against the back side of the rotor. Also if you bought inexpensive pads they are usually noisier when braking.
+Bushougoma thanks for your response, I'll go back and check it, the sound its pretty strong and yeah its coming from the side that i worked on
+Bushougoma where can i contack you? i took some pictures of the worked done
WHAT SIZE DRILL DID YOU USE TO MAKE THE HOLE ON THE BOLTS THANKS
Pedro Rodriguez Can't remember. Slightly larger than the pointed tip on the air hammer to reduce the chance of it slipping off the bolt.
THANKS BRO
I just had to do this job today and unfortunately, 2 of the wheel bearing retaining bolts broke on me on the 1st knuckle worked on - the bolts were very rusted and seized. An alternate way I did this job without having to remove the wheel bearing assembly is to remove the knuckle off the vehicle, then find a socket large enough to fit on the inner hub and simply pound it out with a hammer - while holding the knuckle up against something solid to have clearance for the hub/rotor to fall down. Then remove the 4 bolts on the front side of the rotor and rotor is removed. To reinstall, bolt new rotor onto the hub first then lay the rotor/hub assembly with the wheel studs facing down on a block of wood, then find a socket to fit on top of the inner race of the wheel bearing and pound it back in with a hammer or use a shop press and reinstall the knuckle on vehicle.
Unfortunately when you separate the inner and outer races especially with a hammer it damages the bearing and it is very likely that you will be replacing it in the future. These are permanently sealed bearings and aren't designed to be separated.
This is usually done without removing the knuckle by using a special slide hammer adapter. The adapter bolts to the hub using the wheel lugs. The slide hammer then threads onto the adapter which allows you to separate the hub from the bearing. The only time I use this method is if I'm replacing the bearing because I have to separate it to cut the inner race off the hub anyway.
I didn't mention this method on purpose but I forgot to explain why.
Yea I know what you mean - I prefer removing the wheel bearing to prevent bearing race separation too. But, in my case when the customer didn't want to spend the extra money to replace the wheel bearings - which I had to anyway after the bearing bolts broke on me, I was left with minimal options. I didn't want to risk removing the bearing bolts on the other side cause there was a high chance some of those bolts would break too.
Slide-hammer them off and replace the bearings... much easier!
Almost makes me want to replace the bearings if I have to replace the rotors.
My 1992 Honda Accord wheel does NOT turn when jacked up and in PARK. No brake applied.
I take it that one of the front wheels is locked up?
Remove the caliper bolts on the offending wheel and check the slide pins they should move in and out freely. If the pins are stuck the pads won't release. If the pins are fine remove the caliper and attempt to remove the pads from the bracket they should come out easily by hand. Rust can accumulate on the caliper bracket under the hardware this pinches the pads and can cause them to seize.
Another possible cause is a seized caliper rust accumulates inside the caliper pinching the piston in it's bore which doesn't allow the pads to release.
Hey thanks so much for your concern, and kind and fast reply... but the caliper is not on the rotor at all... the brake is not locked up because there is no brake there now.... i just think the wheels can't turn when the car is in park. Today my buddy came up and used his electric DEWALT impact gun to remove the nearly impossible hub nut... I'm afraid now the rest is up to me. ugh!
That doesn't sound good that only leaves a seized up hub bearing or an internal transmission issue hopefully it's just a bearing. The transmission is full of fluid and wasn't run dry? Normally with the transmission in park and both front wheels off the ground when you spin one wheel the opposite wheel should turn.
Try unstaking the axle nut with a screwdriver before removing it especially if you're doing it by hand. I wouldn't use anything smaller than a 1/2 air impact for breaking that nut loose. If an impact isn't available a breaker bar with a 7 to 8 foot piece of black iron pipe on the end should provide enough leverage. Make sure to use a torque wrench to reinstall it at the proper torque as it preloads the wheel bearing.
You could have just like, left the wheels on the ground to remove the axle nut...
freshfrij0les It's easier to stake and unstake the nut with the vehicle up higher and the wheel out of the way.
You also have more swing on removal for that long pipe on the breaker bar as well because it WILL flex and hit the ground when you step on it if you place it horizontally. With it off the ground you can put the pipe in a horizontal plane AND have the clearance so stepping onto it will be safer.
I've never needed to step on it for this. I usually take the wheel off, remove the center cap, and put the wheel back on, and lower the car if I don't have a friend, or if I don't have a good impact.
Hell, I never unstake the nut either. I just turn it hard and it usually comes off.
I generally lift up rather than push down, but if you're hitting the ground with the bar, then you're letting it down too far before pushing.
freshfrij0les I'm glad the nut came off that easy. Some days go that way on others the vehicle fights you the whole way. You've never had to break loose an axle nut by hand that's been driven home by a 1/2" impact at max torque by the previous tech. It's more common than you think. It took a 6 foot cheater bar for that one.
My air compressor needed parts that day you take for granted how much quicker work is with an impact until you don't have one.
Depending on how deep the axle nut has been staked you can strip the threads. I tried it once for the heck of it with a breaker bar. Since the axle being replaced didn't have a core. After a lot of torque was applied the nut finally began to turn but not before the staked shoulder destroyed the threads around the keyway.
Unstaking the nut only takes a minute or so, eliminates the risk of thread damage, and reduces the amount of torque you need to apply to get the nut to move especially if you're removing it by hand.
One thing you learn quickly in auto repair is just because a certain method worked once doesn't mean it's going to work every time.
I can’t separate the lower control arm
The tapers on the lower ball joints are pretty tight on these vehicles I'd recommend using a ball joint separator. Tighten the bolt down on the tool until it's tight and hit the side of the lower arm with a mini sledge. The tension from the tool combined with the hammer should pop it loose.
HEY BUSHOU IS THAT LX OR EX HONDA ACCORD LET ME KNOW I HAVE A 1990 LX
Pedro Rodriguez It was an EX model.
THANKS BUSHOU
What a pain in the A$$ to remove a rotor!I am sure glad I don't have an accord what model is it anyways? is that for all the accord models from those years? anyone know?Thank you
Rob Hernandez ; well friend of mine has a 2001 it has this stupid setup I told him “Im doing pads only unless the rotor is warped to hell” you open up a can of worms otherwise. Ball joints, upper arms, tie rod ends even the axles all can be ruined trying to change a set of rotors. Never had good success with honda this is why.
Thats how i broke my breaker bar...use impact.
Luv my 97 wagon............but really. Just Honda trying to drive business back to the dealer.
That's the old style design. U have to remove to take car have apart.
I can believe honda would do such a crappie brake job. I just did the hub and wheel bearing on 96 accord and realize that would take as muck effort to get the rotors done.
Those rotors can be machined without removing .Pep Boys will machine those for$ 20 each side while in the car.That is too much work just to replace the rotors.The 6th generation is much easier on Hondas.
Very time consuming!
That is insanity. I am just selling the car. Not worth all that bullshit.
Bad brake design.Honda failed on this model.