How To Replace Internal Zincs Anodes - Yamaha Fourstroke Outboard Boat Motor
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- Опубликовано: 18 янв 2016
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How to replace your Internal Zincs - Yamaha Fourstroke Outboard Boat Motor. 2007 Yamaha F 150 has 3 internal zincs or anodes that need to be checked or changed every few years.
Sir, thanks again. I replace my as per your video. SUPER EASY to do. No reason not to replace these every few years. Again, great video and you were a big help!!
Great video. I do all my own winterization and spring start up. I didn't realize the internal zincs were that easy to get to. My F150's are 2011's. Hoping the locations are similar. Thanks again!
Spectacular video for a totally untrained outboard owner! Thanks
Okay as far as it goes, but a few more lessons learned will keep you out of trouble when doing this on saltwater motors where the anodes may be frozen in place from corrosion and wear. If they have been in there a while, they can be very difficult to remove. Do not try work the anode cover loose using the 10 mm machine screw in the center, and do not try to remove that screw from the cover. It will easily shear off. Use a large screwdriver between the motor case and the end of the cover's flange to twist the cover back and forth. A rod matching the hole size of the cover mounting screw can be used to wiggle it up and down. With those two techniques, it will eventually loosen enough to where you can pull it out with pliers. To remove the old anode from the cover, hold the cover in a vise or crescent wrench. Use a 10 mm hex driver on the recess in the end of the anode and unscrew it. Use vise grips to turn the anode if the hex recess has been eaten away. Apply teflon pipe sealant (not teflon tape) to the new anode's threads before screwing it onto the retaining screw. Apply grease to the grommet and cover mounting bolt. If you do shear the 10mm screw off, the remains may come out when you unscew the old anode from the cover, in which case you can just buy a new screw. The entire assembly is available for around $30 (in 2023) if it gets too messed up to reuse. On the 90 and 115 hp motors, the anode down low on the starboard side has tight access. There's insufficient clearance to completely remove the mounting bolt from the cover, and doesn't need to be. Once you've loosened the bolt, use something thin to get between the cover and the engine case, and then work it loose enough to make a gap for a screwdriver blade to fit in there and pry the assembly loose. The cover and bolt can then be removed together.
Thank you , your video help me a lot!
Thanks for the heads up
Good information...thanks for sharing
Did you ever try using SaltAway vs vinegar? I'm curious as to the outcome. I just replaced my internal anodes too and was shocked to see the degree of salt buildup. Here I thought I was doing a good job of using the earmuffs to flush after use. I was felt guilty using so much water and letting it run on earmuffs for 10+ minutes. Looks like I'll need to let it run longer. Thanks
Hey how's it goin ...thanks for a great video..do you happen to know the part number for these anodes? I have the same motor but have had trouble finding the exact part number for replacement. Thanks alot
I usually run mine in a tub so the water heats up in the tub from recirculating. When I did my impeller a few years back it was clean as a whistle and I run in salt water. I'm going to check zincs though now too.
I use salt away but I run fresh water first until I have warm water out of pisser and prop then I hook up the saltaway solution and run that threw.
i have a 2015 ..15hp yamaha 4 stroke. about 100hrs...just got from shop with new impeller and lower fluid. i'm gonna do oil change and plugs myself. do i have any internal zincs to change thanx ?
The white powder on a zinc anode is usually magnesium oxide, it shows that the anode is working.
merci!
Pulled those zincs out of 2007 F250s, dropped that assembly into a jar of CLR overnight, the screws backed out really easy, to allow replacement zincs
I had my engine de scaled at a shop. They run a solution throughout the entire cooling system. It circulates through for hours. At the end there is a ton of corrosion and buildup that comes out. I suggest doing this every 5 years depending on use
blake the snake interesting I did the same with 8 gallons of vinegar but didn't get much out.
SolarBurrito did u do a video on that? I'd like to watch it if you did. Also. They removed thermostat and circulated the solution with an external pump. The engine stays off during this process and they pump it for a couple hours.
The video is pretty boring so I never finished it. Did you see the shop do it? I did a similar thing with a funnel.
blake the snake I
Where can i find these I've searched all over the internet and am completely lost
Anthony Nicholson I just googled it and two sites came up. This is the site I ordered mine from. The first time I ordered them they were not exactly right. Make sure you take yours out and measure them. Before you order. www.boatzincs.com/yamaha_outboard.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnuDTBRDUARIsAL41eDoNm_iTCxtEoHdvEz1OIAVvp5Cv1OpPCaLQDqUdds7Lkw-ZivyzvSQaAo5NEALw_wcB
Those anodes really weren't that bad, shoulda seen mine when I pulled them @ 600 hrs...
So, that's actually not salt, but calcium, which blocks the anode from doing its job. None of the anodes you showed are serviceable. All should be replaced fairly frequently and for the low cost of the anodes, why wait until your engine starts getting eaten up?