These Tikka videos are the answer to all Tikka fan prayers, just awesome! I'd like to mention fitting a couple of Kalix Teknik cheek risers and had nothing but trouble. The drilling templates seemed like they were inaccurate and they make up for that by telling you to drill untidy oversize holes for the riser pillars.
I'm glad you're enjoying them. We dive into the stock this week. Do you have a good source for the Kalix cheek riser? It would be interesting to see how difficult the installing is compared to our cheek riser kit. Cheers!
Yes, I can't wait for your stock video. Something I have found very interesting with the synthetic stocks is that the area directly behind the recoil lug is different on some stocks? The hollowed out section can be one or the other of two different shapes? I'm wondering if the stock that has less hollowed out leaving more material behind the lug is a magnum stock? It's been puzzling me and nobody seems to know? I just took a look at your cheek risers and they look great at a fraction of the price of Kalix Teknik. Your riser will be going on my next Tikka.@@mountaintacticalcompany
Great observation! It is actually just different generations of injection molds. Tikka changed the buttstock section once and didn't tell anyone. We didn't know until our customers had fitment issues with our Limbsaver recoil pads.
Great question! A firing pin spring should be replaced every 5,000 to 7,500 rounds. Unfortunately, the only way to get a new firing pin spring is to purchase an entire firing pin assembly from MidWest Gunworks or Brownells.
@@mountaintacticalcompany it the most simple genuis design. No tools required for break down. You can just look it up online to seethe potential of that design.
great video! I have the tikka t3x in 30-06. love the gun! question: do u feel it’s ok to dry fire the gun without a snapcap/ dummy round in the chamber? looking forward to more of your great videos!
Great question! As long as it is not done excessively, you can dry fire a Tikka T3 or T3x. If you are dry fire training, it is worth picking up enough snap caps to fill your mag. There is an old saying, "One dry fire is worth two live fires." Dry fire training is worth the time. Cheers!
@scotthorner7709 yes there is! 30-06 is right on the recoil threshold of most shooters. A Limbsaver can make a huge difference if you don't already have one. Your idea of dry fire practice is great for eliminating flinch.
Great content , Thank you. I bought my first T3 in 30-06 about 18 years ago,( 1/2 Moa ),Since then I have used them for a lot of custom builds, it's my go to for push feed , Even though I have a few Defiance Rebels , The T3 is an excellent choice.
I bought my last Defiance about 5 years ago It's CRF with a 3 Pos. Safety. (No longer Available). Had it built into a very nice 9.3x62. I don't know what to make of new ownership of Defiance, Or if I could get spare parts if need be, Another reason to like the Tikka T3 (Consistently Available).
The new owner is a great businessman and is getting the company back on track. I know some of the employees and morale has never been higher. They did drop some low volume items that everyone loved... tough calls...
Great video. I like this series. Question, is there a firing pin disassemble tool to replace the spring, clip, collar, or firing pin? I know there is a kit that sells a complete firing pin assembly, but I am looking at replacing separate pieces due to heavy rust.
Unfortunately, there is not... we designed one but have not sold it because of how expensive it would be. Plus, the little retainer clip is not reusable once it is disassembled. That is why we did not show that part of the disassembly in the video. For rust removal, EvapoRust works very well. Then, give it a nice thin coat of oil before reassembling the bolt. Thank you for your feedback!
@@mountaintacticalcompany I was recommended EVAPO-RUST by another person and it worked great. There is some still deep rust on the collar and I'm nervous about the clip underneath since I cannot see the clip. More of a safety replacement.
@johnlicon2472 if you dab a little lithium grease under the collar, she'll be good to go. That will seal off any further moisture intrusion. We have a rusted firing pin here. I should do a video on using Evaporust and using lithium grease to restore it.
Wouldn't have hurt to explain the purpose and relationship of the "dry fire stop" and the bolt body, why the tapered pin absolutely requires it., along with how that setup is being supported in the bolt body Plenty of people don't understand why/how dry firing can break a firing pin, and how the newer systems stop that problem.
That's a good point. I should discuss that. Each episode has been a challenge of how far down the rabbit hole we go. Your feedback helps us better keep that balance of video length vs information shared. Cheers!
Excellent video. I have T3X lite in 30-06. Love it. How do you recommend storing the bolt? Is it ok to have the firing pin spring under pressure in storage?
Fantastic question. We store our Tikkas in both conditions. If they go into the safe, the bolts are closed, and the firing pin is allowed to fall. The Tikkas you see on the wall are stored with the firing pin springs compressed since we use chamber flags to show they are clear and safe. Because the firing pin travel is only 6mm, the spring is always under pressure. It is designed to take it. You can safely store your Tikka in the condition that fits your needs.
Have heard that the bolt will have to be taken apart to clean the factory grease off the firing pin on a new rifle. Any experience with that? Great content! Any plans to do a T3X stock upgrade video?
I've done stock videos in the past. It's tough because there are some pretty bad stocks out there and I don't want to be in the business of trashing anyone's products.
We should do a video on that. While recording this episode, Colin and I discussed it, but decided it may lead to someone ruining their bolt or losing the little parts.
Honestly, I wish the bolt had a hole in it for over pressure, directing the gas into the magazine well. If I send you my bolt, can you drill me a hole? Bolts with an over pressure vent hole are superior.
Can I ask you why you do not believe that the venting hole already on the rifle is sufficient? I am asking out of curiousity. I have 4 Tikkas currently, and I love all of them. I fell in love with the smooth bolt action on my 12 year old T3 in .308 Win. I got a little disappointed buying two T3x in .223 Rem and 6,5x55 SE. The flutet bolt does not run that smooth, but I hope it will after some use. The last one is a T1x in .22 LR. The ejector on this rifle is a spring on the left side putting pressure on the case as you pull it out. When the rifle was new, 3 out of 5 casings did not eject, but rested on top of the magazine, creating issues. Then I did regret I did not buy a CZ 457.. Got fixed by a gunsmith who polished the throat. At least that is what I was told.
@@mountaintacticalcompany not really ive purchased 2 gun online tho (both 2506) and they seem to be ok a ruger no and a browing bbr..the no1 shots about half minute with reloads and havent shot the bbr too much ..they both arent going to be for hunting thats what the tikka 270wsm is for.
These Tikka videos are the answer to all Tikka fan prayers, just awesome! I'd like to mention fitting a couple of Kalix Teknik cheek risers and had nothing but trouble. The drilling templates seemed like they were inaccurate and they make up for that by telling you to drill untidy oversize holes for the riser pillars.
I'm glad you're enjoying them. We dive into the stock this week. Do you have a good source for the Kalix cheek riser? It would be interesting to see how difficult the installing is compared to our cheek riser kit. Cheers!
Yes, I can't wait for your stock video. Something I have found very interesting with the synthetic stocks is that the area directly behind the recoil lug is different on some stocks? The hollowed out section can be one or the other of two different shapes? I'm wondering if the stock that has less hollowed out leaving more material behind the lug is a magnum stock? It's been puzzling me and nobody seems to know?
I just took a look at your cheek risers and they look great at a fraction of the price of Kalix Teknik. Your riser will be going on my next Tikka.@@mountaintacticalcompany
Great observation! It is actually just different generations of injection molds. Tikka changed the buttstock section once and didn't tell anyone. We didn't know until our customers had fitment issues with our Limbsaver recoil pads.
Thanks for clearing that up, much appreciated.@@mountaintacticalcompany
Great video. Very informative.
Thank you!
Very nice. Thank you.
You are welcome!
At how many rounds should the firing pin spring be changed out out ? And where would a person source one from ? Thanks for the detailed videos
Great question! A firing pin spring should be replaced every 5,000 to 7,500 rounds. Unfortunately, the only way to get a new firing pin spring is to purchase an entire firing pin assembly from MidWest Gunworks or Brownells.
Tika are pretty nice. I personally prefer the way weatherby vanguard/ howa 1500 bolt is designed. It's so simple and easy to disassemble to service
I’ll have to pick one up and check it out. The Howa minis are quite tempting as well…
@@mountaintacticalcompany it the most simple genuis design. No tools required for break down. You can just look it up online to seethe potential of that design.
great video! I have the tikka t3x in 30-06. love the gun! question: do u feel it’s ok to dry fire the gun without a snapcap/ dummy round in the chamber?
looking forward to more of your great videos!
Great question! As long as it is not done excessively, you can dry fire a Tikka T3 or T3x. If you are dry fire training, it is worth picking up enough snap caps to fill your mag. There is an old saying, "One dry fire is worth two live fires." Dry fire training is worth the time. Cheers!
thanks! I’m gonna order up some snap caps! it’s easy to develop a flinch with this light weight rifle in 30-06 There’s a bit of a kick!
@scotthorner7709 yes there is! 30-06 is right on the recoil threshold of most shooters. A Limbsaver can make a huge difference if you don't already have one. Your idea of dry fire practice is great for eliminating flinch.
Appreciate you guy’s doing this series.
You are welcome!
Great content , Thank you. I bought my first T3 in 30-06 about 18 years ago,( 1/2 Moa ),Since then I have used them for a lot of custom builds, it's my go to for push feed , Even though I have a few Defiance Rebels , The T3 is an excellent choice.
Great caliber! I just bought a Defiance Ruckus to compare tolerance, feel, etc. The Defiance, so far, is solidifying Tikka's value in my mind. Cheers!
I bought my last Defiance about 5 years ago It's CRF with a 3 Pos. Safety. (No longer Available). Had it built into a very nice 9.3x62. I don't know what to make of new ownership of Defiance, Or if I could get spare parts if need be, Another reason to like the Tikka T3 (Consistently Available).
The new owner is a great businessman and is getting the company back on track. I know some of the employees and morale has never been higher. They did drop some low volume items that everyone loved... tough calls...
Great video. I like this series. Question, is there a firing pin disassemble tool to replace the spring, clip, collar, or firing pin? I know there is a kit that sells a complete firing pin assembly, but I am looking at replacing separate pieces due to heavy rust.
Unfortunately, there is not... we designed one but have not sold it because of how expensive it would be. Plus, the little retainer clip is not reusable once it is disassembled. That is why we did not show that part of the disassembly in the video.
For rust removal, EvapoRust works very well. Then, give it a nice thin coat of oil before reassembling the bolt.
Thank you for your feedback!
@@mountaintacticalcompany I was recommended EVAPO-RUST by another person and it worked great. There is some still deep rust on the collar and I'm nervous about the clip underneath since I cannot see the clip. More of a safety replacement.
@johnlicon2472 if you dab a little lithium grease under the collar, she'll be good to go. That will seal off any further moisture intrusion. We have a rusted firing pin here. I should do a video on using Evaporust and using lithium grease to restore it.
Wouldn't have hurt to explain the purpose and relationship of the "dry fire stop" and the bolt body, why the tapered pin absolutely requires it., along with how that setup is being supported in the bolt body Plenty of people don't understand why/how dry firing can break a firing pin, and how the newer systems stop that problem.
That's a good point. I should discuss that. Each episode has been a challenge of how far down the rabbit hole we go. Your feedback helps us better keep that balance of video length vs information shared. Cheers!
Excellent video. I have T3X lite in 30-06. Love it. How do you recommend storing the bolt? Is it ok to have the firing pin spring under pressure in storage?
Fantastic question. We store our Tikkas in both conditions. If they go into the safe, the bolts are closed, and the firing pin is allowed to fall. The Tikkas you see on the wall are stored with the firing pin springs compressed since we use chamber flags to show they are clear and safe. Because the firing pin travel is only 6mm, the spring is always under pressure. It is designed to take it.
You can safely store your Tikka in the condition that fits your needs.
great video mate.
Thank you!
Great Video!
Thanks!
Have heard that the bolt will have to be taken apart to clean the factory grease off the firing pin on a new rifle. Any experience with that? Great content! Any plans to do a T3X stock upgrade video?
I've done stock videos in the past. It's tough because there are some pretty bad stocks out there and I don't want to be in the business of trashing anyone's products.
Don't worry about any grease. Tikka bolts are designed to be run dry so there is no grease from the factory in them. Cheers!
I liked it, but I would like to see you remove the ejector.
We should do a video on that. While recording this episode, Colin and I discussed it, but decided it may lead to someone ruining their bolt or losing the little parts.
@@mountaintacticalcompany I found an old video of someone removing the ejector, but would like to see you do it properly and show reinstalling it too.
I’ll put this together. I’m not sure how soon, but it will be a great excuse to do a deeper dive into the bolt mechanism.
Love it
Honestly, I wish the bolt had a hole in it for over pressure, directing the gas into the magazine well. If I send you my bolt, can you drill me a hole?
Bolts with an over pressure vent hole are superior.
I agree with you that the bolt should have vents. We are not set up for gunsmithing but a gunsmith or machine shop could do it rather quickly.
Can I ask you why you do not believe that the venting hole already on the rifle is sufficient? I am asking out of curiousity. I have 4 Tikkas currently, and I love all of them. I fell in love with the smooth bolt action on my 12 year old T3 in .308 Win. I got a little disappointed buying two T3x in .223 Rem and 6,5x55 SE. The flutet bolt does not run that smooth, but I hope it will after some use. The last one is a T1x in .22 LR. The ejector on this rifle is a spring on the left side putting pressure on the case as you pull it out. When the rifle was new, 3 out of 5 casings did not eject, but rested on top of the magazine, creating issues. Then I did regret I did not buy a CZ 457.. Got fixed by a gunsmith who polished the throat. At least that is what I was told.
Did not say if the bolt handle was made out of carbon steel or stainless steel.
Great question! Stainless steel.
wish i could get a 25 06 tx3...
I didn't realize they stopped making them until your comment. When I checked around, you're right, no 25-06...
@@mountaintacticalcompany yes sad.. i can find used but i dont like buying used guns so much :(
I understand your sentiment. Do you have a gunsmith you would trust to do a prebuy inspection?
@@mountaintacticalcompany not really ive purchased 2 gun online tho (both 2506) and they seem to be ok a ruger no and a browing bbr..the no1 shots about half minute with reloads and havent shot the bbr too much ..they both arent going to be for hunting thats what the tikka 270wsm is for.