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The Time Vetements Crashed A Parisian McDonald's (Understanding Vetements SS20 | Review)
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- Опубликовано: 13 июл 2020
- In today's video I am talking about the Vetements spring summer 2020 (SS20) collection. I break down the looks, references and my overall thoughts on the collection. This collection featured Vetements takeover of the capital’s biggest McDonald’s branch. But a shock, nevertheless-especially because the models appeared through the front door, from a truck parked on the street.
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#vetements #vêtements #demnagvasalia
The idea is to promote people to buy less. The clothes are simple to remove the distinction between high fashion and everyday clothes and the price points make the act of consuming and discarding clothes impractical to the everyday person. If you buy a simple hoodie for $1000 dollars you can wear it just like any other hoodie but youre not gonna buy 20 of them, wash them at the incorrect temperature and destroy them and then discard them at a landfill.
i can't remember how many times I ordered food black out drunk at this exact mcdonalds
🤣🤣🤣
thats all a part of the aesthetic, black out drunk munchies
There's actually more to the "BÖSE" print! It's written with an Ö which turns it into the German word for "evil". Seeing it on a biker look gives it yet another layer since there's a German band called "Böhse Onkelz" which translates to "evil uncles". This also plays into their tradition of doing metal/hardcore band shirts.
Oh wow that’s crazy 🔥. I didn’t even catch that.
That's what you have your community for! xx
Léon C. Romeike 100% you guys are the best ❤️
"Böhse Onkelz" do also have a really bad rep in Germany, due to connections to the neo nazi scene in their earliest days (though they have somewhat distanced themselves and were not specifically extremely right but rather anti-establishment in a punk sense when they were most popular) and are (to some degree justifiedly) hated by the mainstream. However, the band and its iconography remains very popular among the kind of people who'd vote for UKIP or the likes, less educated, male and from the country.
Long story short, could be very Vetements to have implied that
The Vetements font always resembled the font of "vetements" written on the clothing recycling bins around the city of Paris. When the brand came out, no other Parisian brands were making clothes that reflected the north of Paris. I know everyone always refers to the Soviet aesthetic, but I always found it to resemble the people in the 18, 19, and 20th arrondissements which are melting pots. Those are the everyday person, he elevated their style like how all french brands sell "Parisian" style, only they are always sell the same stereotypes of Paris. People can nail the look without spending or buying Vêtements, thats the democracy of it, people who can't, can buy the brand.
This is a great take, thanks so much for watching ❤️
Marie Antoinette also dressed up as a milk maid and had her servants polish freshly laid eggs. Luxury brands appropriating working class aesthetics devoids such style from street culture, context and the social hardships that come with these social strata. You see elevation, I see unappreciated irony.
Always wondered about the pricing of vetements...
Demna's not only a talented designer but he really is a great businessman as well. With Vetements, him and his brother know how to sell their products whilst promoting a sort of ironic social commentary. He really knows the current market of the fashion industry, especially amongst the youth.
He’s one of the few mainstream fashion designers that understands how to market to a younger demographic. So many brands are struggling trying to win over that customer base
Sounds like Virgil
@@arceustheo Virgil isn't that talented of a designer but he definitely knows how to sell his product well and knows his audience well lol
Alvin Anis yeah but I feel his marketing tactics are slightly better than denma's
same old story: a designer claiming to be for the people who are in a different class, but in relaity they only thing they do for those people is inspire, motivate, and encourage them. potentially pulling more designers into the same shoes.
i know I’m kind of late to the party, but i love how at 13:58 we see the name tag with CAPITALISM but we also see it at Balenciaga with the “HI MY NAME IS DEMNA” collection which came out a couple of months ago. I think is pretty cool, i love to see Demna crossover little references like this, it makes me feel as if I’m getting a 2 in 1 deal with both brands.
This feels like a long time ago now. Damn. Remember when everyone was tryna flex the Polezei coat so hard
Hahaha same. Feels like yesterday
glad someone covered this collection! show studio never seems to get it beyond the surface 🤷🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
I’ve been on show studio a few times but the problem with the platform in general is most times they don’t invite fashion journalists / people with more than surface level fashion knowledge hence why you don’t learn much. The panels are basically as good as the guests.
The first thing I thought of when you mentioned the “Don’t Shoot” shirt was the use of “shoot” to refer to taking a photo. Maybe it’s also a playful nod to how his clothes are almost instantly recognizable and easily end up on someone’s Instagram feed. Which is probably what’s going to happen to the shirt anyway. Or, as he points out, I might be overthinking it. 😅
I think that the Don't shoot tee could also be a reference at the war theme used during SS19 where models were wearing t-shirts with the shooting target circle, a reference on how civilians were literally targets for Russian soldiers.
Thank you for mentioning the Qassimi tshirt story
Really like how you give all this context to the brand :)
The latest issue of Vestoj has a piece by Caroline Stevenson discussing the move of fashion's purposeful association away from fine-art and towards consumerism (e.g. Kanye West and Gap, Raf Simon's and Sterling Ruby, etc). And how part of this is turning into a new form of releasing collections in which the consumer participates in the process and is more experience-oriented than product-oriented, like when Abloh's collaboration with Ikea included multiple public intermediate release stages. She mentions at the end that Vetements s/s 20 might be similar in that it was a way for "select insiders to be in on the joke," (have an experience) where here the joke is that Vetements is "as complicit in the capitalist machine as McDonalds."
Interesting take on it.
It's like Monopoly the board game. It started out as a commentary on capitalism (mainly property ownership) and the gameplay was intended to feel ridiculous and frustrating. Yet somehow it became the most popular board game of all time and thus a huge commercial success. And ever since it's just the same old game getting milked for decades with the release of new "editions" for the sake of keeping up with the times. I suppose Vetements has a bit more substance in new collections.
Uniforms as fashion, that was a big punk thing way, WAY back in the day. I remember wearing my 1978, high school gym shirt to be fashionable. I'd try to doll it up with a red spiral telephone cord, and "the Weirdos" & "the Germs" pins, and whatever other gadget was laying around. I wish I had taken a photo of me wearing that number. No wonder I was kicked out of two high schools.
Would like to clarify that, when you are talking about "Security uniforms", he was actually referencing Russian Police Unifroms, with his strong take on Russian police brutality and it being present nearly everywhere in Russia and Russian controlled areas, such as the one where Demna grew up (Abkhazia)
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Just want to help to clarify!
Thanks very much for the clarification I really appreciate it. The point I was making in the video was that in general he has this obsession with security and police uniforms hence why on the screen I put a statement he made. This is why we see various police and security uniforms across multiple Vetements collections. In terms of the direct reference in this collection you’re definitely right, I was more talking about his mind frame in general.
Great video. Only thing I would argue is that one can operate inside, and profit from, a system of which they still have heavy criticisms of. He can’t change the system so he might as well exploit it to his best benefit while still showing us his criticisms. But I think you already know that lol
This is definitely a great counter argument and I guess one can try their best to improve aspects of the system they are in but in the meantime have to participate in it
Being a designer/into design is impossible to not feed capitalism, specially the luxury market so... I like Demna’s take on it but yeah is kinda contradictory
Not really. Capitalism is the private ownership of the means of production. Capitalism has nothing to do with wealth except the relationship between workers who create wealth and owners who accumulate it. There’s nothing contradictory about being wealthy or making expensive clothes and criticizing capitalism.
Kind of feel like you've got a love / hate relationship with Demna...but honestly that probably makes u a good critic
Video quality going up 🚀
Trying my best
Incredible video, as always. Documentation and facts at it’s finest. It would be amazing if you could make a video about Tom Ford’s time at Gucci and how he changed the house.🖤
It’s funny you say that. I have two videos lined up in the near future for Frida Giannini at Gucci and Tom Ford at Gucci. Stay tuned...
The Fashion Archive Looove Frida’s work as well. She was really inspired by Tom aesthetically speaking and the campaigns from her time were INCREDIBLE. I’m really curious about the future of Gucci if Alessandro is going to leave and I really think of that because his collections are starting to be really repetitive. From what I’ve heard, the brand is kind of low on sales right now.
Really great video as usual ! very informative actually thank you for sharing the knowledge and your point of view!
Thanks a lot for watching ❤️
It might not be completely congruent, but Demna's quote on why he left VETEMENTS kinda reminded me of Cristobal Balenciaga's statement on why he closed his couture atelier: "There's no one left to dress." There's no one left to meme because we've reached peak pop culture and irony!
love this video :) thank u so much for the info
Thanks for watching
Great review of the show, I enjoyed this collection a lot as well ! Oh, and as a native french speaker, I can say that you got the prononunciation of "Champs-Élysées" quite wrong haha, it's more like "shan-zay-lee-zay" (not sure how to write the pronunciation in english lmao)
Haha I had a feeling I destroyed the pronunciation 🤣🤦🏿♂️
I love the new way you roadmap your videos now
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sha-umps eli-zay
On the point of being "for the people" I think vetements reflects what we should really think of as streetwear, which is the clothes people wear on the streets, and it's this that he's referring to rather than I think the pricing of the clothes. I think the pricing matters less these days in a way because people, even working class people, will save to buy the clothes they think are cool. On the point of criticising capitalism while living inside it, this is an inevitable consequence of creating art within capitalism. It does render you something of a hypocrite but we should overlook it otherwise we'd never have any commentary on it at all.
Good points, comrade
Great points Andrew as always. It is true that the hypocrisy is evident, I think my reason for highlighting it is showing that criticising capitalism while benefiting from the system of it limits how far you can go in general but either way I respect Demna’s artistic expression as I hope I highlighted in this video and that ultimately wasn’t the only aspect to the collection.
@@FashionRoadman I think the point is we just have to accept the hypocrisy because we're all kind of complicit in it, and otherwise we end saying well who can criticise capitalism, and the answer is no one who has any mainstream voice or ability to be heard.
man I really like your commentaries
I think the notion of Vetements being “for the people” is more resonant with the discussion of fashion, Vetements’ concepts and designs draw from the very people that don’t have fashion in the periphery, that both intentionally neglect the art form as well as those whose livelihoods prevent them from being able to appreciate it.
It’s an open invitation to those who can’t afford/ or don’t see the point in paying for expensive clothing, an encouragement to view, if not appreciate or discuss.
Love your content
Thanks ❤️
Always love hearing your thoughts, good video
Thanks for always tuning in to watch the videos
Such an informative video! Your insight is fantastic.
Great information & pictures.
Not a huge fan of this collection; however, I respect the effort.
I guess that I need a closer look or more education to his work.
Idk if anyone else felt the same but this show was overlooked in it’s season. The shock factor of Vetements had worn off for everyone except normies.
I just love your videos brilliant content thank you
Bucket hat looks clean
Merci
great video, also, the sight of 0 dislikes is beautiful
I feel like Demna is heavily influenced by Margiela in terms of creative process and career progression. The way he left Vetements, the shoulder & boxy silhouette reference, focusing on the clothings, etc. & u can name several other things that are very similar to Margiela.
the song at the end pls
love u
Also can these companies sue him for using their images or will Demna have got permission
I’m wondering about this too. As far as I know, in the court of law if you change 3 elements to something then you can get away with some copyright things.
Vetement is atill a thing now? i havn't heard for a few years
I remember not being a fan of this collection. I thought it was just a mess, yet I did like the Russian police fits. Still, think Vetements is a joke. Their prices ignore their statement.
Great vid, as always ofc;)
great commentary. glad you brought up the price point. to me its appropriation, taking from the lower classes and turning elite. not really radical. that said I admire his creativity.
bro I cant believe ur 22, thought you'd be in your late 20s ...perhaps its cause you've got such a mature energy than the average 20 year old
Thanks haha I try
Here comes the vetements irony play
Hahaha
don't get me wrong. I love demna and the idea of criticizing capitalism, but he literally benefits from it. it really raises the question of fashion's place in a more socialists society. overall awesome video man, and once again, great insight
What is the song that is always used in the vids? I love it
SKILLSHARE THE WAY!
Yea I also agree about the paradox of hating capitalism but being such a part of it, like "anti-fashion" with rei kawakuwo which is probably one of the biggest references in fashion, dont you think is like a "reverse psychology" another marketing plan? although I think he does hate capitalism but he knows how to play with it, like kawakuwo herself with fashion.
Got any other recommended skillshare classes ?
All the classes by Jeff Staple are really good
ID on your tee?
follow. I've been wondering
It’s by a London based brand called “Christian Kye”
I think his anti-capitalist approach happens on a different level. By declaring specific and already established streetware elements as high fashion he also paths the option for everyday people to be dressed fashionable wearing just their own clothes without being looked down upon by higher social groups. Thus buying Balenciaga pieces at an afforadable pricerange becomes obscolete.
vetements would probably be my favorite brand if it wasn't so unbelievably overpriced, i love the designs, the aesthetic and the message but come on there is no way u can claim to make clothes for everyday people and then charge these exorbitant prices nobody with a normal income can afford, this kills the whole idea, in my opinion they arent criticizing capitalism they are capitalism itself
This is where I’m in two minds about the brand. It exists as something that it criticises. Intelligent or ignorant? I really don’t know to be honest.
@@FashionRoadman I'm super late to this, but I'll give what I find most socialists put forth to that criticism: that's kind of the point of capitalism that you have no other option but to participate in it, it is meant to be a totality that you must depend on in order to survive. You must buy food, clothing, housing, etc or you will die, and attempts to escape it or resist that mode with attempts to create moneyless, classless exchange systems are eventually met with state-sanctioned violence when they start gaining success. I think the heaviness and the oppressiveness of the presentation in critiques of capitalism is meant to reflect that, and despite all that there is a fundamental refusal to (or inability to given the price of ethical labor) reflect that in the price points of these critiques that come from the brand-owning classes across the board.
dont shoot. dont shoot photographs. not dont shoot the photographer. cool play. also ectacy is a reference to all the game/video/porn addictions that have been rising since the start of the internet and how people lose track of their life because of the easy acces to "happiness" via the internet. Just as with all the new media/internet the people have lost track of what clothes/clothing is all about. idk. could be wrong. t is a funny concept/idea.
1. You can't really change the definition of "ready to wear". RTW has never meant to be for sale immediately. It's fine to do that but don't call it that. 2. So Vetements is for the "unsnobby"? $1000 sweatshirts = snobby. Vetements was always troll culture. It's a joke on everyone that fell for it.
Who is going to think that deeply about the outcome of a garment?.imna designer myself and I just like to make cool looking stuff....0 philosophy
All i see is $300 for a t-shirt
Everyday person can’t drop 1600 on a hoodie
That’s for sure
Truly this brand not elegent, luxury, unique or interesting 😐😒
BTW... Consumerism does NOT EQUAL Capitalism. You seem to think they are the same thing, and it kind of detracts from you saying smart things. Capitalism, don't forget, is the best way to lift poor people out of poverty. It's why places like America have a middle class, and why poor people can often become middle class. That isn't too say it's perfect. It isn't. It has problems. It just has a lot less problems then Socialism does( read 1984 if you want to know what those are). Consumerism is simply people being too caught up in purchasing things they don't need, throwing away things they can fix, and getting their self esteem from what they own. Also, Arabic designers don't own the trouble in the Middle East. Believe me, it affects us, and we affect them. So, please stop with the predictable bleating of appropriation. Good job mentioning Quasimi, though. Nice label.
First of all consumerism and capitalism go hand in hand. I never said they are the same thing.
Capitalism is the best way to lift poor people out of poverty? Have no idea where you learnt that.
Also, did you try and quote a George Orwell book to try and discredit socialism? I think you need to go back and read 1984 again. Regardless of what you convince yourself places like the USA have socialist initiatives like state schools that don’t exist in places like Africa.
@@FashionRoadman You didn't read about George Orwell well enough. He was a Communist who learned to hate Communism in the end. And the place he got his ideas are from Zamyatin's dystopian novel called "We". Zamyatin was an early Soviet dissident. Capitalism certainly doesn't solve all problems, but the countries with the most stable middle class, and where poor people transition into middle class the easiest are ALL CAPITALIST COUNTRIES. Let's look at Socialist countries. I'll list them from wiki; China, Cuba, N Korea, Vietnam, Eritrea, Cuba, N Vietam, Guinea.....These countries are the poorest, also with some of the worst of the worst abuses of human rights. AND AS I SAID AGAIN. George Orwell wrote Animal Farm and to a lesser extent 1984 to warn about both Communism, and Globalism( in 1984 there are only 3 nations, which are described as being extremely similar.)
What I’m getting at here is when it comes to politics I don’t like to think in absolutes because every economy works differently based on what the country specialises in and it’s value in the global market. Hence different systems work better for different countries. There is so such thing as a one size fits all model. Now since you mentioned China to talk about China, China is the second largest economy in the world behind the USA which is projected to overtake the USA very soon.
If you look at the data, China has had the most rapid decline in poverty rate in the past 20 years more than any other country in the world and that’s a socialist system.
Politically speaking I’m a centralist - I lean left on some issues and right on others depending on the specific issue at hand. The only reason I wanted to have this discussion is because I don’t like this idea of a one size fits all model that will automatically work regardless of the way every individual economy is structured.
Vetement's clothing is so ridiculous and self important. It's really not that deep. We get it...we understand it...it's just dumb and ugly. I would call it "the gentrification of style." Everything they make is a rip off of an organic style: Biker Style, Skater Style, Michael Jackson Style, 90s Hipsters style. I don't see how anybody can call this stuff innovative when it's all ripped off. It's oversized...so what. Even that's not new. I wonder how many Americans buy their clothes. I mean, they make clown clothes. I can't see anybody in America walking down this street with this stuff on. The clothes just scream"Weird European." Like seriously I would crack up laughing if I saw someone in these clothes.
Wow you really have 0 clue of vetements... The whole point of vetements is to reuse and reproduce stuff thats already been made. Pop Culture, Stuff from the 90‘s or Clothing from our Society (Security,Police, Factory Workers etc, etc... Please inform yourself before you hate on my fav brand :((