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Raf Simons Prada Debut (SS21 Review)
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2020
- This SS21 Prada womenswear collection marked the start of a new journey with Raf at the helm with Miuccia Prada as a co-creative director. Duality and plurality has always been inherent in the language of Prada: juxtaposing different elements, approaches and disciplines to find a paradoxical harmony in dichotomy. The physical environment of this virtual fashion show - conceived by OMA/AMO - is a personal, intimate space, tactile. Technology appears as chandeliers of monitors and cameras - decoration and use combined - animated in a dynamic ballet with figures that pass through. The soundtrack, composed for the show by Plastikman, British-Canadian electronic musician Richie Hawtin, includes the names of every woman modelling in the show: an entirely new cast who have never walked a runway show previously. For all of them, this marks a debut. (VIA PRADA.COM)
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Thanks for taking the time for introducing Raf Simons to those just getting into Fashion :). I really appreciate the fact you realise you have a spectrum of viewers.
Not much interested in women's fashion, just watched for the concepts. Can't wait for the menswear though!
Yeah menswear is very dope
Marc Jacob swag wit the pearls
guys with pearl necklaces is so underrated. prob cuz youll look like a trader joes beach boi if you do wear it most of the time
Large or multiple logos just says “desperate for people to know the label I’m wearing.”
It seems to me that many of the top design houses, dropped in quality, and increased logos 😏
I suppose I will just have to stick with Hermès 🤷🏻♂️
It breaks my heart I just want him to leave already. If I wanted to wear Raf I'd wait till the Ssense sale, not spend Prada money.
Could you do a vew vids of japanese fashion or just brands like visvim or Kapital.
I love the parallel you made between Raf’s work at Calvin and the new Prada satin like dresses. Love that entire section of this video actually! Great analysis and makes me eager to see your review on his menswear for Prada as well.
I loved how they managed to create a collection that felt like a collaboration between the both if them, but I felt like the collection was just that. A collaboration. I hope we'll see collections where they're both working on a single idea rather than a collection of both of theirs.
A lot of women mock kitten heels so it's interesting to hear you as a man say you find them sexy. I agree.
The thing is, it’s probably not something that most people have worn because you can’t just throw on kitten heels with sweatpants or any random denim. I’ve also noticed in general, people normally reject things that aren’t familiar to them so it makes sense a lot of women would mock them. It takes a certain confidence and outfit to wear kitten heels which is why most times when I see women wear them, they exude confidence and sexiness.
It's very prada to take something that's considered ugly and make it fashion.
@@FashionRoadman ngl this was so encouraging to read. Thank you!
As a guy I personally love almost any type of heel because they show your foot or leg if not worn with pants which I find very attractive.
Awesome comments, love Raf Simons and the lady too! Great team!
I absolutely love the idea of putting the models names up while they were going down the runway. Rw models are highly under appreciated in the impact they have on these shows (imo) and its great to see them said!
for me it is also a zoom reference, you know when you enter a meeting and your name appears.
Great video man I learn a lot of new info with every vid .
Great video, the pearl necklace is fire
I watched the show and I didn't even notice half of the things you talked about, really love your chanel!
I pretty much agree with most of what you said. But I am strongly in favour of the satin dresses with the graphic text print. That contradiction in fashion between having the feminine elegance with something more street style, feels kinda punk but chic, I live for it. Generally I am a massive fan of anything put how it's not supposed to be, or opposites being put together.
My boy brought up RAF at Prada yesterday and I hadn't checked it out yet,, but I knew my guy fashion archive got me covered with the content ✊🏿
Yessir!
I liked the use of the Prada logos except for those very large ones.
Your knowledge is insane !! Great content
Wow the quality of this video is fantastic
Great video. I loved the sweaters with the holes. As I was watching the collection, I thought I could wear that sweater with a number of pieces I have in my wardrobe.
It’s the Prada heels for me❤️
Such a great video! your review was straight to the point yet very detailed, good job! I loved the kitten heels too, but I'm absolutely not a fan of those big logos...
Enjoyed how you broke this down. I appreciated the use of nylon in the collection and how it was incorporated into different articles of clothing. Very functional as you mentioned.
been waiting for the review drop
I definitely was not a fan of the show from seeing it first on Vogue Runway but after listening to your analysis and seeing the clothes in movement, I definitely see it in a different light. Great video ✨
i love the lighting set up, its clean. Big ups
yess!!! I feel the same about kitten heels! they don't scream "i'm really trying to be sexy"😂
looking fresh my g
Your channel is good & due to blow, keep up the good work. Could you do a video on Mason Margiela (hope I have spelt it correctly)
I haven’t seen anyone mention how the collection echoes the wraps seen in the finale looks of the Prada FW 1991 collection. The way the models held them to their bodies back then seemed coy but chic but the updated version seems more like primal survival in a chaotic world.
Raf definitely has the capacity to design new stuff through his own label, but I wouldn’t have passed an opportunity like this either lol
I hope they used local models and didn't fly people in, it's not about all the money in the world, it's just health and safety for citizens
I’m sorry but this collection is just horrible. Miuccia Prada pushes (used to push) fashion forward by taking something she hates and explores new ideas from beauty from this, which gave us so many ground breaking collections (like the Lace collection FW08). Now there’s nothing of that brilliance. Everything, from the Dior cut outs and warp printing to ‘96 prints to JS couture trilogy coat volumes, is recycled and dated. It’s so banal and insipid - I was bored to tears. The collections do not talk about ideas worth discussing, unlike a lot of her collections before that explored duality, gender roles, feminism, and so on. This one is all about commerciality, and all this talk about this not being the time to explore novelty and championing timelessness and simplicity is just faux intellectual drivel to convince fashion minded consumers that Prada is not a mass market brand for people who have no taste who just want to show off how much their clothing costs.
Don’t worry I definitely agree with you. My job with my videos is to present all the information about the collection and let people draw their own opinions from it. If I lead too negatively I won’t be promoting people to think for themselves. (that being said I did have moments in the video where I highlighted my distaste for the logos even saying some pieces were a cry for proving to people you’re wearing Prada).
However if someone asked me my personal opinion I would say It was a disappointing first showing from Raf at Prada and if you watch my livestream 7 months ago when the news of Raf going to Prada came out I said I don’t think it’s a good fit. All that being said, I am still optimistic that we will see more innovative collections moving forward considering the circumstances that this collection was made under.
The Fashion Archive sorry to have come off so strong. Prada has always been important to me so it elicits quite strong reactions. Just want to say as well that I didn’t mean to contradict what you said - it was just to add my take. I noticed that when you compliment the set, the models, the fabric, but not really about how this collection was brilliant as a whole, I knew that you didn’t find it revolutionary. Also, you were breaking down the elements of the show for your audience and I salute you for that.
I second Raf not being a good fit. His approach is wildly different to that of Miuccia. Also, I find that he struggled without his dream team that he had in JS and it is so apparent here. Without his artistic director in JS, he has been quite lost, his collections have been so incoherent.
Well, one can hope for innovation and beauty for the next seasons but I really think we won’t see any of these. If we do, fantastic, but I’m not holding my breath. For years we have been seeing banal collections from the brand and I think the brand is really too big already to really cater to people who love fashion. Time and time again, we’ve just been seeing overly cartoony looks and prints (this is the brand trying to recapture the critical and commercial success of Minimal Baroque SS11), logomania (which I have to say is so out of step with everything that is happening, but this is what sells in growth markets) and print archives (it had its moment, now it’s just sad). All this commerciality and blandness is all for revenue to appease shareholders. Also, a lot of people have been saying that Manuela Pavesi was the one who made Prada magic happen, since she was Miuccia’s right hand and ever since she passed, we have been seeing mess after mess. I really hope we come to see a return to form but to me, it is looking bleak.
Blashtifin I loved most of his JS and some of his Dior, but I feel that he is out of ideas. His collections used to be so refined but his default approach of making clothing with contemporary art imagery splashed with esoteric graphic iconography is just old. It’s not exciting anymore. Speaking of high design for all, I have been thinking about this a lot lately. Prada isn’t doing high fashion anymore and is just so expensive now (I don’t know about you but I really can’t stomach paying 5.000€, which is what for a Prada coat goes for nowadays, and with Prada cancelling end of season sales, well...) and so many cheaper brands are doing more interesting collections. Theyskens, Chalayan, Elbaz, Lemaire are committed to their vision of beauty and I know they wouldn’t sell out. The Meiers for JS are continuously refining their interpretation of and exploring further Jil’s legacy. Speaking of JS, I for one can’t wait for +J. High concept minimalism at accessible price points. Sustainability is being done brilliantly by many other brands, like Filippa K and Asket, which is great compared to the faux sustainability effort/lip service of Prada with its re-nylon concept (which would still produce micro plastics - another critical environmental problem). We don’t need Prada or Hermès; we just have to look out for smaller brands that embody ideas important to us and we’d find clothes worth buying and wearing.
Feel like the CK polo necks were in turn referencing the R embroidery polo necks Raf did early one across multiple seasons (and which will be a big part of the reissue coming out as it's the cheapest item on there lol)
I guess it’s destined for commercial success.
Can’t w8⃣️ to see those raf Kollaps-like hoodies going jet raise 🛫️ in resale
It still gonna be expensive asf archive stuffs are always expensive even if they put a discount on it
The new Guess collection is Lit!
Can I suggest making your background pop a little more, maybe an interesting backdrop? Would love to see your channel grow!
Love the chain man. Where is it from?
Is no one going to mention that they also have referenced the last show that Raf did for Jil Sander?
The way that the models were holding the, which looked like an extra piece of garment around them? reminded me of the show where models were seen holding their coats walking down the runway.
Interesting also when you mentioned that the Prada Group owned Jil Sanders share. Almost like as if Raf started where he left with Miuccia Prada’s Prada.
Another great informative video, thanks for putting the work Ayo
Well, I’ll try to elaborate on several points
First Playing safe with the collab : I truly think it’s the easiest (not in a negative sense) and the best way to do a collection when you start your first collection in a house which has a certain aesthetic, a custom base already established to please in some way, and creative landmarks that need to be respected. So personally, I’ll never criticize any designer going safe, unless it’s badly done, which is not the case here with Raf at Prada. Yet, we logically expect more from Raf and Miuccia for the next collections
This leads me to another topic : the « trend » of collaborations inside a house/brand, we’re seeing it with Kim Jones joining Silvia Fenturini Fendi, the Botter Couple for their own brand and at Nina Ricci. I think it can be a great opportunity to mix two creative minds which rely on different inspirations, well it can also be hard to agree on a single creative vision but i’m very optimistic with such duos
Also, it’s great for designers to put their ego on one side and to go further with their minds and brands
Next, I appreciate Raf saying that he is seeking for refinement of his own aesthetic and he’s not in a race for creativity (has he ever been in such a race tho?), I find this statement clever, and as you talk about timelessness, it seems true to me that timelessness comes with refinement of a specific aesthetic which will not fade as the time goes on. I went to Gabrielle Chanel’s retrospective in the Palais Galliera in Paris, and when you see her designs from the 20’s, or her « tailleurs » from the 50’s and 60’s, it really looked like you could wear it today and it would still rock, and often classic pieces are timeless, so I recommend most people to look for timelessness and not following trends. Look at Yohji bruh, the master of refinement and you can’t be bored
Last but not least logos and Miuccia’s opening to technology : when it comes to logos, from a business point a view, it looks like a must-do, the same goes with monograms, look at how Oliviers Rousteing resurrected a Balmain pattern from the archive, it will definitely sell bags, shoes and other accessories. Still, I don’t think logos are bad per se, it’s always how you use them, and if you do it with some discretion it still can be efficient without going mad about logomania.
Knowing that MIuccia opens herself to technology reassure me about older people’ minds in fashion, especially because designers and owners cannot ignore digital and technological tools anymore, it was a trend in the 70’s with designers like Pierre Cardin, Courrèges, Paco Rabanne, using new fabrics. But as Olivier Roustains showed it at his last runway, you can mix the traditional way with some technology and that can just make fashion shows just more interesting, that’s a way to embrace the future, and it’s no surprise Olivier, as a young designer (35 years old) is one of the first to do both physical and digital operations
Well that’s all for me on this one, can’t wait for the next video !
And I recommend people to support Ayo on his patreon, there is really good content to watch on it !
I thought the collection and the runway were pretty cool. The only thing I did not like were de huge logos.
Quite good debut but if I'm being honest, it was Raf playing it safe and commercial. I just hope his next collection is better though!
Skillshare is a good fit. shout out to you
Please make a review video on Matthew Williams debut collection at Givenchy!!!! would love to hear your thoughts on the collection.
I adore old Prada, so I hope they reference back and refine more often. I think it maintains the core aesthetics of the brand and is not something to look down on.
You have noticed every single detail with great efficiency. I love Prada. I keep buying Prada products from dynacart.com. Great video!
Please please please make a video about McQueen. Thank you!
another great video
great video!
shouldn't "supposed to be" not be a huge concern in fashion design? also, i believe that most of the logo-desire/demand is due to social media......... the flex needs to be easily visible/recognizable in pictures.
I cant afford those clothes... having that said; I agree the logo in front of the satin dress is very tacky xD
i think i use just clotes that is cool and beautiful and i wish i could buy something more expensive ten 10 dolars
Lovely video. But could you put image references on the screen
I think his videos would be much better if he turned up the background music in his videos.
This is very interesting feedback. It’s an extremely hard thing to fix when some people complain it’s too loud and other people say it’s too quiet. I guess one audio level for the background music will never please absolutely everyone so it’s just one of those things
The Fashion Archive nah just leave it as it is
Also, the pearl necklace looks 👌🏾👌🏾 on you ayo!!
I prefer the you keep the audio how it is , any louder I think it would be annoying, sounds perfect to me
Amazing collection! And I’m happy to see the results of RS appointment at Prada.
Way way better than Mathew Wiliams at Givenchy. His collection was truly terrible and disappointing:(
in terms of sustainability and staples going through seasons....i don't see this in the collection. Using big logos and Rf stamps makes commercial, edginess, dialogue....everything they want but not staples AT ALL.
16:00 couldnt have said it better.
I'm glad brands start with the female clothing, cause I know men's fashion is far easier to win people over.
14:04 Tom Ford
Attention Prada shoppers……,prices are going up…. he is there for a reason….to clean the company and getting good paid doing it…… Jil Sanders, Dior, Calvin Klein, Prada….. oh boy…keep adding to his resume….
I don’t agree when you say satin is « suppose » to be chic, nothing is « suppose » to be in fashion in my opinion
Yeah, this collection was a miss for me. There was so much hype for these two fashion powerhouses collaborating and I don’t think it lived up to the hype.
We don’t know what went on behind the scenes, but from the designs and details it seems as though Miuccia took control of this collection, and Raf’s additions seem to be an afterthought, which I think is sad and defeats the purpose of bringing him in.
Hopefully with time their aesthetics merge in a more balanced, cohesive, and *exciting* way.
❤️❤️❤️♾
man, love your vids so much! i would love to do something together! hit me i have some ideas :) lets get this fashion youtube ting turnt on its head
The logo mania in fashion needs to go away. I don't want to pay money for being a billboard. They want advertising they can buy it themselves. Not to mention Prada's logo is just ugly.
personal opinion: i think the over presence of the logo encapsulates prada’s ugly chic in a kind of humorous way: logos in the streetwear are such a staple that are excessively displayed that it falls into a ridiculousness that they might have wanted to mock on a high fashion runway, as the theatre for the fashion world as its whole . [plus, raf simons being so praised by street wear icons - having his own asap rocky song for instance - must bring about his popularity on the runway]
I hate hate hate logos, more so big ones like this. I hope this fad disappears as soon as possible and 20 years from now we’ll view big ass logos like we view the extremely low waisted jeans of the 2000s. And this is why I wouldn’t call such a collection “timeleess.”
Raf washed?
My personal opinion is how can your personal opinion be even considered when you give us NOTHING ...sitting their looking like h&m the house ..boring how can you be VANILLA in all Boring Black you need a few of those triangles
Sitting there*
@@FashionRoadman standing doing cartwheels besides the point if you going to be Mr.Fashion. shit give us some. Very lazy & it isn't just you
@@hubbardlaluce3932 I'm not trying to be "Mr fashion" at all. I just talk about what interests me and post it on youtube. I don't associate myself with the childishness and elitism that you are displaying right here. If how simply I dress affects you so much, why are you even watching the video?
@@FashionRoadman affects??? And because I'm bored & your black 🙄 ...and am I the 1st to make a comment that you didn't see eye to eye with or something 🤔 youtube free on my end so why I can watch & comment you do say comment & tell me what you think 🤔 so what gives your Majesty
@@hubbardlaluce3932 thing is people disagree with my points in videos all the time which is fine, I actually encourage it because I like to learn from my audience. I just don’t see how the way I dress in my bedroom to film a video has anything to do with my opinions on a fashion show.
Concept and designer’s signature means nothing when it’s done so badly. It’s hideous full of branding, they just speak to a consumerist audience. And why does it look so cheap though? I mean it’s prada. Is it losing its relevance?