Sony A7S iii - How To Expose S-Log 3 The Correct Way!
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
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Ready for some colour grading tutorials?! Go shoot some footage and get ready!
Cracking tips something I struggle with looking forward to the colour grading as well cheers H
Thanks Mate!! Grading will be soon!!
Thank you so much for this video, most videos I found so far just tell you to stick a grey card in your shot which is great when you have the time and flexibility for that but I shoot very spontaneously out and about so this video was very helpful showing some alternative approaches
You’ll get the hang of it, trust me! 🙌🏻🙌🏻 i felt the exact same
Hi Danny, thank you for sharing, slog 3 is so tricky, I used zebras as well, but on higher level, so 91+ is nice tip. Thanks
It's a pleasure, it's why I make these videos for people! Give it a try, even if you slightly under or over exposure, you can pull it back in post. Thanks for watching!
Exactly what I need !!!!.........I have an a7sIII and I quite often mess up my exposure! My question is, shouldn't an external monitor with false color do the same thing? Good video!
Hey Jazz! Yeah, an external monitor (or anything that can display false colour) will do just that. I have a monitor that does it really nicely but if i'm honest, I barely use it! For the kind of work I do I hate bulking out the camera and unfortunately Sony hasn't put any kind of false colour on the alpha series -_- maybe one day!
My camera doesnt have the mm at the bottom. It only had a -/+. Do you have any adviceeee?
Finally had a few minutes to finish the rest of this 😅 lol, Great tips Danny! Especially the bit about conversion luts, never thought of adjusting like that and found it super annoying having to basically regrade a particular clip for the exposure. I’ll be giving that method a shot on my next one for sure!
Conversion LUTs are so much easier mate! They will stretch your footage to the correct contrast and saturation and correct all the colours in one go. I have 2 adjustment layers normally now, the first one on top of the footage has the conversion LUT and the next one is my grade/personal LUT. Turn your top adjustment layer off and adjust the whitebalance, exposure and tone of the actual clip before the conversion LUT. Then add the grade and adjust that to suit... The grading video i'm working on will help explain this more. Thanks for watching
@@DannyBligh Awesome thanks!
Thanks for sharing, it really helps ❤️
My pleasure!!
Great video, thanks. Recently switched from GH5 to Sony (A7iii & A7iv) and struggling a bit with IBIS (so far nowhere near as good as GH5, unless I'm missing something) and which PP to use. Will explore SLog3. Just watched your Rebecca & Josh video btw - magnificent.
Hey! Thanks for watching firstly. So the a7iii has good IBIS (if that is the correct term for that specific body) but it's not the best! The A7iv should have active stabilisation. I don't own one but obviously have the A7Siii. Try this... Menu>Shooting (red menu)>8 Image Stabilisation>SteadyShot and then select active. You get a crop at 1.1x but I have never noticed it in the 8 months i've owned it. I can shoot handheld and it look really good! Obviously them nice running gimbal like movements you can't get still but nice pans and follow shots are easily achievable. I have a couple of profiles made on my a7siii, i'll do a video soon so it may help you! But i mainly shoot in S-log 3 or the wedding stuff is shot in s-cinetone. We find it so easy to work with for quick turnaround and with the incredible 10bit colour on the a7siii (or a7iv) you have no problems with exposure! The a7iii has limitations when it comes to video but you can make it work! I found Cine4 to be the easiest on the A7iii but i do have a video on my channel about s-log 2 on the a7iii. Cheers!
@@DannyBligh Thanks Danny. Will email you directly. Appreciate the advice.
@@lettochfilms Just sent you an email back! May possibly be in your spam so double check
Hey! Just wanted to pop in here as a7iv user myself, the active stabilization makes a massive difference, I’ve found unless there’s lots of bumps/shock going on almost don’t ‘need’ a gimbal as often as what I used to
I loved the info you conveyed here but you might want to slow down the pacing a tad. Feels a bit like a sprint…
Using a external monitor and monitoring it with false colors woud help a bunch also
Absolutely, that’s also going to be incredibly accurate no mater the situation
good tips!
Thank you!!!
Great tips. New subscriber 😉👍🏻
Welcome to the party!! 😂😂 appreciate the sub! Plenty more videos to come
Thanks, Danny! I shoot in the S.Gamut 3 Cine color mode. Does the color mode affect what the custom zebra values should be? I figure since the gamma curve deals with luminance and the color mode deals with colors, it shouldn't matter, but wanted to see what you think.
You’re absolutely correct, Anthony! Only the Gamma will effect the zebras, colour modes will only shift the colours
@@DannyBligh perfect, thank you!
Wow that helps!! Thank you. Been using SLog3 for a while now but always wondered why I had to bring up the exposure in PP by at least 1 stop. Being super lazy I set the exposure compensation to 2 stops over and put ISO on auto, so the ISO would fluctuate up or down trying to keep the image to 2 stops over exposed. But even setting the zebras to 94+ I never got anything close to 'almost clipping'. And doing it this way my footage was always too dark. Doing it your way and manually and setting the ISO and ND filter to just 'not clip' exposes the shot perfectly (after adding the S-Log3 Leeming Lut), even though my MM is flashing at 2.0+. I guess the flashing MM at over 2 stops is just something we have to live with, or am I doing something wrong?
Just something you have to live with! The metering on the Sonys only got from -2.0 to +2.0. Anything outside of that range and the camera will just flash the m.m. Not the end of the world though. You’re doing everything fine!
There may be situations it doesn’t flash but the more you use Slog3, the more you will be able to expose without even looking at a histogram, meter scales or even zebras. I don’t have zebras in most of the time now.
Glad it helped!!
@@DannyBligh cheers Danny. I'm going to book another hour of your time if that's ok. Need to talk about buying a camera (which one) and camera settings on my A7iv.
Do waveforms make this easier.
It would but you can’t do waveforms natively on the A7S iii
So confused, why would you use higher IRE vs lower IRE?
Cheers
Hey Chris, how do you mean? Which bit are you confused with? Happy to help
@@DannyBligh When exposing for skin tones your IRE should be set at ~70. Why then go higher than 70?
Sorry, I've been watching too many videos for the last two days about how to expose slog3 and everyone has their own zebra values, lol.
@@chrisnigul ahhh right!! You can do 70, you could do 73, i do 73 +/-3 so i technically cover 70-76. It’s what works for me and my workflow. You could try 70 and for darker skintones you may want to go lower, but that’s why a range rather than a specific IRE is better. 3 IRE isn’t a great difference especially when you’re shooting in 10-bit colour. More importantly, you don’t want to clip the highlights and white. So i switch between the two different zebras depends on my scene.
Hope that clears it up!
@@DannyBligh But why go as high as 91? What's the benefit of that?
@@chrisnigul so 94 IRE is the highest IRE S-log3 can capture. Everything past that is blown out and unrecoverable. So I make a zebra to show me everything that is blown out in a shot so if for any reason I want to retain that detail, I have a guide. I set it to 91 and not 94 because exposure in shots for video can change quickly. So i like to see what is close to being blown out but not quite blown out yet. So 91+ is the one I go for
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Thanks for watching!!
I literally just filmed something in slog-3 and my whites clipped🫣 I had my zebras set to 95IRE not realizing log profiles clip earlier than 100
It’s happened to the best of us! But now you know, don’t do it again 😬😂