I was actually looking for a video that would show which wire coming out of the ignition switch runs power to the neutral safety switch so i can back trace the electrical signal to see where it's interrupted. Can't seem to find any, but your video has actually helped me out a lot. Now i have a much better understanding of how the ign. switch works and i can probably sort out the rest on my own. Thank you so much.
Sir, thank you so much for this explanation. This was EXACTLY what my problem was also (1999 F350 dually). Very very helpful. And I love the additional info regarding how the switch works. 👍🏻 I can’t say it enough, Thank you again sir.
For those about to dive into this; CarQuest part _ _1045 fits ONLY with the corresponding CarQuest pigtail. It does NOT work with OEM parts. Just a heads up...order the OEM switch
Thank you a million times. I needed to see gow you started the truck with the switch under the dash. I put new ignition cylinder in and switch. If you have get them lined together or nothing works. Light bulb moment. I spent 3 hr messing around saw you video, fixed and running in 10 min. Made my day
Awesome! I love to hear that! That’s my whole goal with most of my “boring” videos, hoping others pick up a little nugget here or there. Please sub and share! Maybe you’ll find more good stuff 😁
I’m troubleshooting an intermittent start issue on a 03 E450 Super Duty. There is a parasitic draw on the batteries. When I pull fuse #23 for the ignition switch and the draw clears. Thanks for the video. Hopefully replacing the ignition switch will fix the problem.
Thanks for this video! I did the same as you, changed the solenoid, cleaned all the grounds & cable ends to no avail, have had all of your symptoms, and mine only happened when was a little bit cold out...caused by the same problem, a leaky roof...Welcome to my world!
took mine apart cleaned it dried it lightly greased the sliding parts but not the contacts at all. works fine now. I used screws to replace the rivets.
This video was very informative. It provided almost all the information that I needed and only created one question. When you had the switch removed from the housing and turned the key, a bunch of stuff came on. Is there another switch in the column? I ask because, 2000 F-250 was recently stolen. They ripped out the key lock cylinder, destroying the housing in the process. The problem is that it wasn't covered under insurance and I can't afford to send it off to have all that fix, or even to replace all the broken parts in the column. I need this truck at least able to limp. This video shows me that I can manually actuate the switch to run, but if there is another switch in the column I need to known so that I can work around it for the time being until I can afford the parts to replace what they damaged. Can you help me with this query?
Any help would be appreciated I recently purchased a 97 7.3 power stroke. Knew the lock cylinder was going, it broke before I could replace. Went in replaced it and the key is still turning back and forth with no/ little resistance. No lights nothing work. Is this an actuator rod ? I can see the rod barely and cannot tell if it is broken any idea how to tell? Any other ideas Ignition switch etc..
Thanks Tom, we just had a big rain and the top of my windshield has a leak and that's what caused my electrical problem thanks to your video i see what happened
@@TomBrueggen I just had the exact same issue this afternoon. Water came down and I could not start. I had to start it with a screw driver connecting the two terminals on the relay under the hood.
I’d guess it runs through here. The fuel pump is only powered when the key is on, so it must relay through the key switch somehow. Sorry I didn’t see this comment sooner, hope you get it figured out!
My buddy has a 1999 F350 with the V10. He has a push button switch under the steering wheel- i suspect something happened & someone put that switch in because the ignition switch died. It also has a nasty power draw- it killed a new battery overnight as it had drawn all power down & froze. So I STRONGLY suspect his switch must be bad, or bad wiring to it. You turn the key to ON then hit the button and it starts. After a few seconds. Extended start time. I need to figure it out for him. Thank you for the video.
Yep, I’ve done that before. Just shortcuts around the key switch to direct to the starter or starter solenoid. Probably just need to change the key switch out. I had a push button like this on an old pickup. And then it shorted out. The truck was a manual, parked in gear, so it came to life (since I had bypassed neutral safety switch. It bumped against the curb trying to start in gear until the battery terminal got so hot that it melted in half.
It’s NOT a good idea to shortcut like this. It’s usually just a stopgap because someone doesn’t know how or they’re too lazy to chase where the circuit is breaking. That’s why I did it. I didn’t know any better, thought it was some impossible problem to fix correctly. If your buddy’s truck isn’t too compromised already you should be able to chase wires by color from the key to the solenoids and check with a test light to see where you have juice and don’t. It’s simple, just tedious
Mine starts in Neutral but not in park. Sometimes itll let me start it in park but it stays locked in park. If i turn the key part way it lets me shift into neutral with my foot off the brake which doesnt seem right. It actually wont let me shift with my foot on the brake. Onve it gets started i can shift it into drive. It seems to shift ok thru all the gears and gets me where i need to go, but then it gets stuck in park again and I have to shut the truck off and do the "procedure" again to get it back into drive. It also occasionally will start out in what i assume is limp mode and the speedometer wont work at the same time. If I stop and cycle it back into park and back into gear, the speedometer will work again and itll shift fine but only after i drive forward a few feet first will it fix itself. ive replaced the pcm, interlock solenoid, the range sensor, the ignition key cylinder, the solenoid pack in the transmission pan, the brake switch... Tried fiddling with the cable asjustment... Idk. I just found a whole steering column for $50. Maybe ill try that next if its not what youre showing.
I have a 2002 F250, and I have the same issue. Sometimes when I turn the key nothing happens. I come back later and starts up fine. First thing I did was tighten the shifter cable bracket under the steering wheel. Only one of the two screws was just barely loose. Then I replaced the shifter column bushings. They were pretty worn but that still didn’t resolve it. Then, I replaced this ignition switch, but unfortunately that didn’t fix it either. I finally gave up and took it to the shop today. We’ll see what they say. I didn’t understand how the ignition switch worked. Thanks for explaining that.
Having the same problems with my 02 mustang...I will be at advance at 730 in the morning lol tired of being stranded at store jiggling the key hoping it works
Changed my ignition switch, replaced my battery, had my alternator and starter checked.. Both were good but even after all that my car still has done that twice since ... Not exactly sure what it is I just don't crank my car off if I'm going into gas stations and coming right back out
I have the problem of the key ignition turning too fast turning on the truck. It’s way more delicate so a simple push turns it all the way. I can’t figure out why
My stereo turns on by itself and the power to the windows comes on too with the key off, can the ignition switch be that problem? The truck is dry inside there is no water leaks. Thanks in advance
my ignition switch is fine, old owner lost the original key so i had to drill out cylinder and put a new one in, but it appears something is missing that returns the ignition pin back when you shut the truck off, i’m a little stumped and was wondering if you had any images or knowledge on if a spring or something returns it back when shutting key off?
Most likely is a piece of plastic inside the steering column that broke. I know cause mine did the same and i took apart the column to replace that. Is called ignition switch actuator
Possibly. Your electric fuel pump is run through a key relay of some sort since when you turn the key to run position the pump kicks on. I don’t know if that power signal is direct through the key switch here or if it’s on a larger network of things that all come on when the key comes on.
@@TomBrueggen ok because I put a new fule pump on and relay switch fuse, and new key switch but it's not coming on the fule pump that is that why I asked if it could stop the fule pump but can you by pass that to check it, well it turned over from the the key switch now but at first the only way for me to turn the motor over I how do it by the solenoid switch but I kept messing with it turning it with the key from inside and it foundly turn over but the fule pump won't come on could ignition switch still be bad and it might have something to do with the fule pump coming on
So you have the issue where turning the key does not engage the starter? If so it’s possibly still the key switch regardless of the steering column lock.
I wonder if This switch is my problem. I have a 2001 Ford F350, Truck turns on with no problem, but when on No speedometer even after replacing the ABS sensors in rear axel and transmission. No cruise control either. Some days I would come out and have a dead battery, this morning Came out and heard the AC blower motor was on. Opened the door and heard the chime as though the key was in the ignition but yet key was in my hand, wiggled around the switch and still stayed on, So I started the truck up and started up fine, turned it off and removed key chime and ac blower stayed on, put the key in turned the ignition backwards to acc position then back to off and she was off no chime no AC blower motor. Do you think its the switch?
Sounds like it could be. I’m not sure about the cruise control running through that switch but the rest of it all adds up. My cab lights used to leak water down through the A brace and short out my fuse panel. Get in after a hard rain and I’d have all sorts of gremlins like you said, wipers on randomly, blower motor, radio etc, never the same thing 🤣
You have power in all positions or don’t have power? If you have power in any position then your truck tries to start as soon as you plug the switch in? I’m not sure I understand your issue
@@TomBrueggen my key seems to work like normal starting and killing the engine, but it will only kill the electrical power to the headlights, all of the accessories In the cab have power no matter if the keys in the ignition or not. They don't seem to be making a big power draw but they aren't supposed to stay on like that. I was told maybe the door jam sensor was bad but I can't believe that because the whole system is supposed to cut power after about ten minutes or so with the key off, whether your doors are open or not. Reading on a couple forums I assume it's either the gem malfunctioning or a couple of relays sticking, hopefully. I don't really know tho,and it already had an issue prior to this with the headlights having power no matter what position the headlights switch is in either,they have power running through the high beam wires for some reason at all times,the only thing that affected that was pulling fuses,but it didn't fix it, it just kinda tolde witch circuit is screwed.
@@Rebel-Neck so I used to have an issue with my cab lights leaking. The water would run down the A pillar and was shorting out my fuse panel. I’d come out after a hard rain to find my radio on, wipers going, etc. You may be onto it though with that door sensor. I’m not sure how all that works. There is also some little computer chip that runs all the interior electronics, maybe that’s the gem module I can’t recall. Mine recently burned a circuit and all my electronics went haywire. Good luck either way. I hate auto electrical with a passion. Seems once one issue comes up you’ll cause two more problems trying to fix one
@@TomBrueggen so I don't have any cab lights but I do have some rust at the top of the windshield over the driver's side in the corner. Maybe I might have a water issue aswell
It’s a very rewarding feeling to fix it myself for sure. I’m chasing gremlins on the engine right now. Swapping out different little electrical sensors. This is the worst. Truck just won’t run, but also won’t register a code to the computer to say why.
@@TomBrueggen I don't have any star bits lol have to borrow from the neighbor. Your video is well filmed and well narrated one of the best I've seen. But they will always tell you what tool is required as they're doing something. Keep up the good work! 👍
I was actually looking for a video that would show which wire coming out of the ignition switch runs power to the neutral safety switch so i can back trace the electrical signal to see where it's interrupted. Can't seem to find any, but your video has actually helped me out a lot. Now i have a much better understanding of how the ign. switch works and i can probably sort out the rest on my own. Thank you so much.
Sir, thank you so much for this explanation. This was EXACTLY what my problem was also (1999 F350 dually). Very very helpful. And I love the additional info regarding how the switch works. 👍🏻 I can’t say it enough, Thank you again sir.
For those about to dive into this; CarQuest part _ _1045 fits ONLY with the corresponding CarQuest pigtail. It does NOT work with OEM parts. Just a heads up...order the OEM switch
Thank you a million times. I needed to see gow you started the truck with the switch under the dash. I put new ignition cylinder in and switch. If you have get them lined together or nothing works. Light bulb moment. I spent 3 hr messing around saw you video, fixed and running in 10 min. Made my day
Awesome! I love to hear that! That’s my whole goal with most of my “boring” videos, hoping others pick up a little nugget here or there. Please sub and share! Maybe you’ll find more good stuff 😁
Thank you man, 16 just got the truck it started a lot then recently it didn’t start and i had to do what you did and got tired of it thanks man
I’m troubleshooting an intermittent start issue on a 03 E450 Super Duty. There is a parasitic draw on the batteries. When I pull fuse #23 for the ignition switch and the draw clears. Thanks for the video. Hopefully replacing the ignition switch will fix the problem.
Thanks for this video! I did the same as you, changed the solenoid, cleaned all the grounds & cable ends to no avail, have had all of your symptoms, and mine only happened when was a little bit cold out...caused by the same problem, a leaky roof...Welcome to my world!
took mine apart cleaned it dried it lightly greased the sliding parts but not the contacts at all. works fine now. I used screws to replace the rivets.
This video was very informative. It provided almost all the information that I needed and only created one question. When you had the switch removed from the housing and turned the key, a bunch of stuff came on. Is there another switch in the column? I ask because, 2000 F-250 was recently stolen. They ripped out the key lock cylinder, destroying the housing in the process. The problem is that it wasn't covered under insurance and I can't afford to send it off to have all that fix, or even to replace all the broken parts in the column. I need this truck at least able to limp. This video shows me that I can manually actuate the switch to run, but if there is another switch in the column I need to known so that I can work around it for the time being until I can afford the parts to replace what they damaged. Can you help me with this query?
Any help would be appreciated I recently purchased a 97 7.3 power stroke. Knew the lock cylinder was going, it broke before I could replace. Went in replaced it and the key is still turning back and forth with no/ little resistance. No lights nothing work. Is this an actuator rod ? I can see the rod barely and cannot tell if it is broken any idea how to tell? Any other ideas Ignition switch etc..
Thanks Tom, we just had a big rain and the top of my windshield has a leak and that's what caused my electrical problem thanks to your video i see what happened
I have same problem with my truck, water leaks down the A pillar and wets connections in my dash
@@TomBrueggen I just had the exact same issue this afternoon. Water came down and I could not start. I had to start it with a screw driver connecting the two terminals on the relay under the hood.
Nice clear video of how this switch assy. works. Thanks much.
Does this control power to the fuel pump as well bc my fuel pump or lift pump won’t turn on once the key turns onto for the wait to start light
I’d guess it runs through here. The fuel pump is only powered when the key is on, so it must relay through the key switch somehow. Sorry I didn’t see this comment sooner, hope you get it figured out!
My buddy has a 1999 F350 with the V10. He has a push button switch under the steering wheel- i suspect something happened & someone put that switch in because the ignition switch died. It also has a nasty power draw- it killed a new battery overnight as it had drawn all power down & froze. So I STRONGLY suspect his switch must be bad, or bad wiring to it. You turn the key to ON then hit the button and it starts. After a few seconds. Extended start time. I need to figure it out for him. Thank you for the video.
Yep, I’ve done that before. Just shortcuts around the key switch to direct to the starter or starter solenoid. Probably just need to change the key switch out. I had a push button like this on an old pickup. And then it shorted out. The truck was a manual, parked in gear, so it came to life (since I had bypassed neutral safety switch. It bumped against the curb trying to start in gear until the battery terminal got so hot that it melted in half.
It’s NOT a good idea to shortcut like this. It’s usually just a stopgap because someone doesn’t know how or they’re too lazy to chase where the circuit is breaking. That’s why I did it. I didn’t know any better, thought it was some impossible problem to fix correctly. If your buddy’s truck isn’t too compromised already you should be able to chase wires by color from the key to the solenoids and check with a test light to see where you have juice and don’t. It’s simple, just tedious
do you need the thin plastic plate on the actual wiring harness side before installing?
Mine starts in Neutral but not in park. Sometimes itll let me start it in park but it stays locked in park. If i turn the key part way it lets me shift into neutral with my foot off the brake which doesnt seem right. It actually wont let me shift with my foot on the brake. Onve it gets started i can shift it into drive. It seems to shift ok thru all the gears and gets me where i need to go, but then it gets stuck in park again and I have to shut the truck off and do the "procedure" again to get it back into drive. It also occasionally will start out in what i assume is limp mode and the speedometer wont work at the same time. If I stop and cycle it back into park and back into gear, the speedometer will work again and itll shift fine but only after i drive forward a few feet first will it fix itself. ive replaced the pcm, interlock solenoid, the range sensor, the ignition key cylinder, the solenoid pack in the transmission pan, the brake switch... Tried fiddling with the cable asjustment... Idk. I just found a whole steering column for $50. Maybe ill try that next if its not what youre showing.
I have a 2002 F250, and I have the same issue. Sometimes when I turn the key nothing happens. I come back later and starts up fine. First thing I did was tighten the shifter cable bracket under the steering wheel. Only one of the two screws was just barely loose. Then I replaced the shifter column bushings. They were pretty worn but that still didn’t resolve it. Then, I replaced this ignition switch, but unfortunately that didn’t fix it either. I finally gave up and took it to the shop today. We’ll see what they say. I didn’t understand how the ignition switch worked. Thanks for explaining that.
Hope they get it fixed! Maybe just a loose ground or a bad relay
Having the same problems with my 02 mustang...I will be at advance at 730 in the morning lol tired of being stranded at store jiggling the key hoping it works
What end up happening?
Changed my ignition switch, replaced my battery, had my alternator and starter checked.. Both were good but even after all that my car still has done that twice since ... Not exactly sure what it is I just don't crank my car off if I'm going into gas stations and coming right back out
What end up happening?
I have the problem of the key ignition turning too fast turning on the truck. It’s way more delicate so a simple push turns it all the way. I can’t figure out why
My stereo turns on by itself and the power to the windows comes on too with the key off, can the ignition switch be that problem? The truck is dry inside there is no water leaks. Thanks in advance
my ignition switch is fine, old owner lost the original key so i had to drill out cylinder and put a new one in, but it appears something is missing that returns the ignition pin back when you shut the truck off, i’m a little stumped and was wondering if you had any images or knowledge on if a spring or something returns it back when shutting key off?
I don’t I’m sorry. I’m sure I’m late with this reply but I’d just look up under the column and see what’s not moving.
Most likely is a piece of plastic inside the steering column that broke.
I know cause mine did the same and i took apart the column to replace that.
Is called ignition switch actuator
Can it stop your fule pump from coming on???
Possibly. Your electric fuel pump is run through a key relay of some sort since when you turn the key to run position the pump kicks on. I don’t know if that power signal is direct through the key switch here or if it’s on a larger network of things that all come on when the key comes on.
@@TomBrueggen ok because I put a new fule pump on and relay switch fuse, and new key switch but it's not coming on the fule pump that is that why I asked if it could stop the fule pump but can you by pass that to check it, well it turned over from the the key switch now but at first the only way for me to turn the motor over I how do it by the solenoid switch but I kept messing with it turning it with the key from inside and it foundly turn over but the fule pump won't come on could ignition switch still be bad and it might have something to do with the fule pump coming on
I'm having the same problem but don't need key to free up steering wheel. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
So you have the issue where turning the key does not engage the starter? If so it’s possibly still the key switch regardless of the steering column lock.
I wonder if This switch is my problem. I have a 2001 Ford F350, Truck turns on with no problem, but when on No speedometer even after replacing the ABS sensors in rear axel and transmission. No cruise control either. Some days I would come out and have a dead battery, this morning Came out and heard the AC blower motor was on. Opened the door and heard the chime as though the key was in the ignition but yet key was in my hand, wiggled around the switch and still stayed on, So I started the truck up and started up fine, turned it off and removed key chime and ac blower stayed on, put the key in turned the ignition backwards to acc position then back to off and she was off no chime no AC blower motor. Do you think its the switch?
Sounds like it could be. I’m not sure about the cruise control running through that switch but the rest of it all adds up. My cab lights used to leak water down through the A brace and short out my fuse panel. Get in after a hard rain and I’d have all sorts of gremlins like you said, wipers on randomly, blower motor, radio etc, never the same thing 🤣
That’s a bad GEM module or a bad under dash fuse box or both. Ur windshield is possibly leaking down on to it and shorting everything out.
hey did this cause a constant SES light?
Never have seen an SES light. This key start switch not working just typically makes nothing happen when turn the key.
My 98 F250 won't shut off and the key turns freely so I'm hoping that I have the same issue.
If the key turns freely that sounds like the tumbler in the steering column, not the electronic switch. Either way, I hope you figured it out!
@@TomBrueggen turned out that it was the actuator. I pressed the pin back in and ground the end enough to reinstall it and it works great.
What if you have power in any position? I just replaced the ignition switch and it's still doing it..
You have power in all positions or don’t have power? If you have power in any position then your truck tries to start as soon as you plug the switch in? I’m not sure I understand your issue
@@TomBrueggen my key seems to work like normal starting and killing the engine, but it will only kill the electrical power to the headlights, all of the accessories In the cab have power no matter if the keys in the ignition or not. They don't seem to be making a big power draw but they aren't supposed to stay on like that. I was told maybe the door jam sensor was bad but I can't believe that because the whole system is supposed to cut power after about ten minutes or so with the key off, whether your doors are open or not. Reading on a couple forums I assume it's either the gem malfunctioning or a couple of relays sticking, hopefully. I don't really know tho,and it already had an issue prior to this with the headlights having power no matter what position the headlights switch is in either,they have power running through the high beam wires for some reason at all times,the only thing that affected that was pulling fuses,but it didn't fix it, it just kinda tolde witch circuit is screwed.
@@Rebel-Neck so I used to have an issue with my cab lights leaking. The water would run down the A pillar and was shorting out my fuse panel. I’d come out after a hard rain to find my radio on, wipers going, etc.
You may be onto it though with that door sensor. I’m not sure how all that works.
There is also some little computer chip that runs all the interior electronics, maybe that’s the gem module I can’t recall. Mine recently burned a circuit and all my electronics went haywire.
Good luck either way. I hate auto electrical with a passion. Seems once one issue comes up you’ll cause two more problems trying to fix one
@@TomBrueggen so I don't have any cab lights but I do have some rust at the top of the windshield over the driver's side in the corner. Maybe I might have a water issue aswell
thanks , have '97 E350 with starter system thats fine except for the actuation rod not actuating now i understand . thanks
Yep. Simple mechanics. Good luck in your repair
Mine has no electrical anywhere unless it sits a while but when i try to start it theres nothin happening.
So the whole truck is dead unless it sits a while? Or just power to the key switch?
Slide is missing a pin for when the key turns forward and backwards
I thought this could be the problem but absolutely nothing happens when I turn the key.
Muito obrigado fiz e deu muito certo!!..
Super nice video on this problem. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you! You too!
Great jobs man
Thank so much for the info man.
Good luck, thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I’d rivet it back together if I had to.
Mine won’t shut off
Wish I could repair my vehicle. I'm sure that would have been, at least, $200 dealer repair.
It’s a very rewarding feeling to fix it myself for sure. I’m chasing gremlins on the engine right now. Swapping out different little electrical sensors. This is the worst. Truck just won’t run, but also won’t register a code to the computer to say why.
Thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Switch removal video
Thank you so much sir
what size star bit to remove the switch?
Geez I don’t know. Whichever one in your kit fits it snuggly I guess. Sorry I’m not more help than that
@@TomBrueggen I don't have any star bits lol have to borrow from the neighbor.
Your video is well filmed and well narrated one of the best I've seen.
But they will always tell you what tool is required as they're doing something.
Keep up the good work! 👍
Slide is missing a pin for when the key turns forward and backwards
Thanks
No problem