80-91 Ford Truck & Van "ignition starter switch"
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- Опубликовано: 18 янв 2021
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Thanks for your video. It help me diagnose the radio and electric window not working and the ABS light staying on. Sure enough it was the ignition switch on the column.
Glad it helped
Dude, you saved my bacon. I was chasing my tail trying to figure out an intermittent electrical problem with my 1989 F250. I stumbled upon your video and I am spending my Black Friday changing out this switch. Thanks again.
What symptoms did you experience? I'm dealing with similar and chasing a mystery.
@@BuckyHoover i would lose the radio driving down the road, then the electric windows would not work, then it just plain quit on me while driving. Start right back up and quit again. Saw this video, changed the switch, no more problems.
@@danielherlihy4685 turns out mine was the ICM. Except now it hesitates when I accelerate but only if I put the pedal down. Revs high and jerks a little then it's fine right around 40mph
great help with! You are the first who actually explained how it works! Thans!
Straight to the point. This was the issue with my 89 F350. Appreciate your video, thank you.
Thanks for thinking to make a video. I've known my ignition switch has been having issues and decided to start with that before moving onto more electrical issues. I had no idea it would be this easy and cheap to replace, going to do this before any further trouble shooting.
You sound like if Ricky from trailer park boys was intelligent.
Glad it helped
Good video. It's UNREAL how many trucks are parked because that switch is bad or needs to be adjusted upward toward the steering wheel
It parked mine quite a few times. Or at least brought it coasting to the shoulder!
Thank you tons!
You're welcome!
Great video. I thought my problem was in the actuator rack and gear but I dropped my column and the switch was broken just like you showed. Man this saved me a bunch of time and money. Thank you!
Man I’ve been looking on RUclips for a while for this dam problem thanks 🙏🏼
You are a Godsend! Almost gave up on my ‘81 f100 custom. Thank you! 🙏🏼
Glad I could help!
Perfect video bro! Dropped column (as opposed to pulling steering wheel🤔) 1990 F250 Truck started shutting off the radio at first, wiggle the key and would kind of work, then shutting truck off completely...my switch was split apart just like ya said. Easy peasy...Thanks! RUclips is awsome!
Thanks, it’s being a long time that I worked on Old Trusty Rusty, that belonged to my Dad, Mom doesn’t want to get rid of it yet, 1984 Ford F150….
Wow brother. Thank you. Bought an f250 for my son it kept dying... Perfect fix, just tapped the dog ears back in to secure the plastic plug. It's as snug as a bug in a rug (no movement). Thank you thank you. Praise the Lord. :D
Praise the Lord
Good video went faster than i thought got to move switch tomorrow. Thanksn
Thank you and God bless you,
You saved my week from trial and error, could not figure out why my switch dead and stiff.
Glad to help. Spray wd40 in the lock and column gaps before the pull link breaks. It shouldnt be stiff even in winter
ruclips.net/video/RMEq27GEogM/видео.html
Dude I think u pin pointed my problem when u said it'll stall while u driving plus my brake lights wasn't working plus it seems like it doesn't get fire now when I try start it great video chief
Great job the video really helped me out. Been trying to figure this thing out for ever!
You just made my whole day.
I’ve been chasing my tail for days
Thanks man, its good knowing youve helped someone!
Thank you for your help, good explanation.
On my 1990 F250 it was hard to turn the key and then one day it was easy to turn but the truck wouldn't start. The starter solenoid is good because I can jump start it there but there is no power going to the solenoid so I'm going to try this. Thanks for the video, it's the first one I've seen that shows how to do this.
You broke the pull link inside the column. Gotta pull the steering wheel.
This is how to prevent it in the future
ruclips.net/video/RMEq27GEogM/видео.html
Nice info man. Thanks!! Saved this for later just in case!
Glad I could help!
Great vid man thanks
I think this is my problem, had a mechanic confirm all the wiring was okay and then he told me suspected this and even if I move the key slightly whole thing shuts off. I’ll replace the key cylinder and this thanks so much.
If the key cylinder rotates its fine. If the key turns stiff, blast some lube all up in there before it breaks the little linkage inside. If the engine cuts out at the slightest fiddle of the key or column, then its just the switch itself. Glad you found it.
@@certifiedhoarder I actually replaced the same part as you and the key no longer switches off at just the touch or going over a bump! feels much safer to drive now thankfully
@@Hobosdkcheese well thats great to hear!
Huge help thanks!
Excellent Vid!
Great video , thanks alot
How did you get the plastic panel underneath the column off . I tried removing ours today but it didn't wanna come off. Great vid btw
😮I’ve been chasing the reason my trucks been dying for a couple months
this is exactly what mine was doing. either random crank no start or it would start and die a few seconds in. i thought it was that switch. thanks
Glad to help
Thank you!
You bet!
Awesome thank you!!!!!!!
thanks for this video. I replaced the ignition barrel thinking that was it, it wasn't. I then saw the push rode moving so I knew that the parts in the steering column was working correctly. It has to be the ignition switch on top of the steering column. I will let you know if that fixed the issue.
You sound just like Ricky from trailer park boys 🤣
thank you
I liked the video - I heard you can do it without dropping the steering column and just remove the screw - but no one shows the alignment process of that wire in relation to where it needs to and how the fitting process should take place - that would have been nice to see
The colum has to be laid down onto the seat, its just 2bolts and is easy to do. The pullrod gets reconnected in the new switch the same as the old one then you advance or retard the switch on its slots to get the same feel you had before. If it cranks and shuts off by the key you got it right. If not keep adjusting it.
@@certifiedhoarder can you adjust the [pullrod while the colum was resting on the seat it seems like that might be easier - BTW - I appreciate your assistance -
@@user-ee4zw4zi9x its been so long i dont quite remember. I think i pulled it back down, changed the position and put it back up. Not too bad. Better to fuss an extra hour at home getting right than wait by a dead truck away from home.
Thanks for the video. When you dropped the steering column did that mess up the shift indicator?
With those being hard to find or very overpriced, best bet would be to just take out the two screws mounting it to the column. You don't want to break that fragile thing. Another thing that makes it a little easier (not that it's hard...) is to pop off the lights/wipers knobs & 3 screws on the top of the cluster cover. Gives a little more room to work with.
My shift indicator was already broke so im not sure
Is this called interaction? Heard about that before but never heard if a longer comment was better
Okey gringo thank you
What's with the wire spring that was across the white piece ??? What purpose does it serve??
Mine will have power, turn the key, lose power. Hit the steering wheel boom power. Turn key, lose power. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch box. I just didn't know the best way to get to it. Thank you.
Drop the column down, should be ontop
My only advice is to disconnect the battery takes 3 min maybe less.
Ok my buddy has one that's stuck at his work what wires would I use off of that to hot wire it for him for the time being to get it back to my house to where I can do all the work it actually needs
Im really sorry for such a late reply but for future reference you just need to bring some jumper links, once the column is unlocked it can all be done under the hood. Just need 12v to one side of the coil, and then momentary 12v to the starter solenoid start lug on the fender.
After I replace the solenoid on my 1991 if that don’t start my truck I’m aiming for this here. Already had it out once and my dad helped me get it set right to fire. Didn’t wanna tear into the steering column again but I may have too. I’m out of ideas and I’m no mechanic
Put a 12v hot jumper to the coil positive lug and crank it. If it suddenly works correctly then either your column switch or neutral safety switch are likely culprits.
I replaced the battery, solenoid and starter cause I have no crank no start and still get nothing. Any thoughts? Could it be the neutral safety switch?
Could be a lot of things. Lets begin at the starter and work backward. Take a charged battery and good jumper cables.. crawl under, chomp the negative to starter body and positive to the starter lug? Does it engage? No is starter issue, yes is starter good.
Back up to the output lug of the solenoid, towards windshield. Chomp the positive there. If it doesnt engage but the starter did its the battery cable from solenoid to starter. Now put the positive cable to the big input lug on the opposite side of the solenoid and use a jumper wire to trigger the solenoid via the small threaded post. Does it crank? If so its good. If it clicks but dont crank its bad.
Now try it hooked to the battery as normal, this will isolate the cable between battery positive and starter. If it wont crank youve got an issue in that piece of + cable or in the ground. Use your jumper cables to make temporary ground wires to verify that.
Neutral safety is way upstream at the beginning. We just started downstream to prove out the components. Now if your neutral safety has failed or a wire is ripped out, you wont have any juice into the start lug inside the column switch so your column switch is makin a good closed connection but theres no electrons on that road, because the neutral safety drawbridge is up in the air. An "open circuit"
Hey bro do u think it can cause a loss off ground making the fuel pump not turn on
Fuel pumps on mine are mechanical. If you have an electric fuel pump that wont turn off.. yeah that could be ground loss. The voltage will make it back home via the path of least resistance, even if its a bulb or coil.
Also, I don't have the ignition control module like every one else.... Is there a way to run one without that? As in did someone bypass that at some point or for some weird reason did someone steal mine?
I dont really know the answer to that for sure but i think the little box is part of triggering the spark timing relative to the crank position.
Thank you for this video. If this module went bad, would your truck continue to crank over with the key in the off position? I think it would but a second opinion never hurts.
Spray wd40 into the ignition keyhole and up into the seams of the column. When the ignition gets stiff itll hold the slide switch in the crank position instead of spring returning. Its just too much friction from the grease that came in the column evaporating over the years.
ruclips.net/video/RMEq27GEogM/видео.html
Have a problem with my 84 f150 where the starter will not stop starting after engine is on, any tips on that?
Either the key is so gummy it wont roll back, or the slide switch is gummy, or most likely, the solenoid on the fender is sticking because the copper wipers inside are arc'd up.
Spray the column with wd40 anyways since the column piece snaps if it gets sticky especially in winter from cold ancient grease. (Get it, ancient grease!)
If when its stuck cranking you pull the small trigger wire off the solenoid and it stays cranking, its the solenoid or Maaaaybe the starter but i bet solenoid. Ive had it happen.
ok, I followed everything you said, the one thing you didn't say how to do is "How do you get the wiring harness to separate to put the new one on?
Its got a plug. You might need some pick tools and effort to get it
If my truck idled down and shut off now no power anywhere could this be the cause everything else seems to check out good
No power to the coil lug could be the ignition sliding switch but no power anywhere can be a lot of thing. Down on the auto transmissions is a neutral safety switch that is upstream of the ignition slide. If a stick pulled the wire out itll die.
Could this be the reason nothing happens when I turn the key. it was running fine then I parked it and when I went to turn the key nothing. It gets power to the truck just not to the ignition or dash but the radio still works 😅
Could be a lot of things. The solenoid on the fender grounds through the sheetmetal and that often loses its ground path or sometimes corrodes internally. Id first get the solenoid clicking with jumper wires and see if it cranks the starter. Your problem is from there down stream if it doesnt, or upstream if it does.
My problem is that when I turn the key. The starter keeps going. Could this be because of this part as well? The truck thinks I’m turning the key when I’m not. Even if I turn the key back and take it out. It keeps trying to start
Something is hanging up, either the solenoid is sticking in the closed position (imagine an electrical drawbridge that lifts up by spring and pulls down to connect the amperage road by electromagnet) or the ignition column slide switch is sticking.
If your key is really hard to turn then spray WD40 around in the column until it loosens up. Even if this isnt the issue. A stiff key will eventually break a link inside these columns so you want it smooth.
On the fender solenoid is a small trigger wire. Use alligator clips to wire in a test light from battery negative to that small post. Keep the wire attached to the post. Have someone crank it and watch the light.
If the starter keeps going and the light is on, its the column switch or ignition cylinder hanging up. If the starter keeps going with the light off, its the solenoid itself.
My problem is that nothing happens when I turn the key. Battery is good but not even a click or any other sound when you turn the key. I might try this anyway and see if it helps. It is 33 years old and can't hurt right?
The solenoid is grounded through the fender and often loses ground from rust. Get some alligator clip jumper wires from harbor freight. believe me youll be using them periodically for as long as you own the truck!
Jump 12v positive to the solenoid trigger post to engage the solenoid coil. Think of it as a magnetic drawbridge across the fat cables.
If it engages from manually triggering the coil with 12v+ jumper, then ignition switch or broken wire likely.
I
f not, then add a ground jumper from battery to solenoid and try again. If it clicks then you have poor ground thru the fender. If it clicks but no crank, undo the starter cable off the solenoid and touch it to battery + post. If the starter doesnt run its either froze up or youve got no ground to the engine block. If it does run and your starter solenoid was clicking, the contacts inside the solenoid are arced up. Replace solenoid. Its very common for chinese solenoids to die this way because no dielectric grease inside. Theyre very short lived.
Does your dash or blinker system work when you turn the key on?
My 81 f150 is doing this same. I replaced the battery, voltage regulator, solenoid and the starter and the interior dome light comes on whilst the door is open, but when I turn the key absolutely nothing.
@@brycebradford7515 use a jumper wire to put 12v+ to the solenoid trigger lug abd verify that it clicks and the starter cranks over.
If it does start looking at neutral safety switch. On an automatic theres a funny plastic piece on the shift shaft with a few wires. The harness for it got snagged in the woods on mine and the driveshaft ripped it off so i just wired them together to bypass the switch. Your ignition switch is downstream of the neutral safety switch.
@@certifiedhoarder yes the lights work and the fuel pump cranks
@@Adiera look into the neutral safety circuit like i describe in my reply above
I replaced mine and now it won’t even crank. What do I do?
Replaced the slide switch? It gets adjusted up or down the column to ensure the keystroke moves it the right amount fore and aft. I think i remember mine being maxed out one direction or the other to get it right.
My key just turns and doesn't even act like it's trying to catch but if I hit the solenoid it fires this 1988 f150 is gonna be the death of me
I suspect you broke the link inside the column that connects the lock cylinder to that metal rod that pulls the slide switch ... if im understanding you correctly. These ignitions get real stiff in winter and need some WD40 or that link can snap.
Problem solved
When I did mine in seem like the bar was long enough
Mine appears the same. Won't reach long enough to start. Did you end up figuring it out?
The slotted adjustment range on the switch wasnt enough?
Yours rattles like my 90 f150