www.thejunkmanadv.com/the-junk-mans-blog/ford-ignition-switch-repair Visit this LINK for the Ford OEM part numbers for all the parts used to repair in this video.
thejunkman, I can't slide the rack back in its slot. I've been turning the key to move the gear in different positions but it won't slide back in there. What do I do?
Did you remove the entire lock cylinder housing? That is what I did and you just slide it in, use a flat screwdriver to move the gear to the right position (first tooth engaged) and it will just slide in. There is a retainer to remove for the rack obviously. Then after putting it on the column you need to hook up the push rod. Just the way it was taken apart.
Thanks For the demonstration. It was a huge help. I would never figured out how to get it all apart without your help. All that was needed on my vehicle was a good cleaning and lubricating to free things up.
Thanks man! You know on mine,back before the aluminum actuator broke,I noticed that the key required more and more effort to turn the key to start,and would have to turn back CCW,or it would actually stay cranking if I did'nt like yours.Your the 1st one to mention the gear issue,and believe mine does have that problem too.Thanks again,and like your style of explaining the problem.You should do more of these instructional videos for automotive repair.
The automotive repair video market space is fairly saturated with people who do this better than me, but I appreciate the comment. I may do more in the future when a problem arises.
Thank you! I watched and rewatched this video several times while working on tearing down and reassembling the ignition actuator on my 1990 F150. I got stuck on the reassembly portion getting that black gear piece realigned with the house and gold gear. Couldn't have done it without your help!
Thank God there's people like you I'm trying to get the gears to mesh in the proper spot and I'm trying to figure out what position should my ignition switch be in to mesh the rack and pinion in the proper spot I'm sure there's a sequence and I'm going to continue to watch and see if your info helps me but so far it looks like it's going to
This is why you run a jump wire to the solenoid to a starter botton on the dash turn the key to the on position and press a botton no third click with the key to fail
Hi I'm having this issue with my truck, I like the idea of the button. How do you wire that. Are you saying take a positive wire off solenoid go to one side of button. And then off other side of button go to positive of starter. Is that correct or is do you have a wiring diagram of what to do. That would save a lot of time instead of taking the stearing column apart. Great idea you have and would appreciate your help thank you
Great video. I don't have that exact problem. I have no accessory so I can listen to my stereo without the key switch in the on position. My key switch moves fluidly but the key switch does not turn backward for the accessory. As I turn the key forward to start, It has play and a catch as if there is an accessory forward not backward just before turning the switch to start.
I wish you would have continued showing how you replace brass gear and other piece with teeth on it. I'm having trouble getting the piece with the loop to go back in where the gear is. Any tips ???. Thank you .
On reassembly of the steering wheel to the steering shaft please note there are timing marks on both the steering shaft and the steering wheel that need to be lined up to keep the steering Centered . This is important, the steering box has a sweet spot in it . It's about Road feel, and the steering of the vehicle feeling loose. Wondering sometimes.
BE NICE IF YOU OR SOMEONE WOULD FINISH THE LAST PART ABOUT THE INSTALLATION AND TIMING OF THE RACK AND PINION . HAD NO PREVIOUS PROBLEM WITH KEY SWITCH WORKING TILL I INSTALLED NEW ACTUATOR ROD, HAD TO REMOVE RACK TO HOOK PIN, PUT IT BACK TOGETHER, KEY OUT OF CLOCK, IN AND OUT MULTIPLE TIMES MUST BE A SECRET CODE TO GET IT IN TIME. MANY VIDEOS OUT THERE, OF WHICH YOURS IS THE BEST ! HOWEVER LIKE THE OTHERS , DOES NOT FINISH. LIKE A SERIAL CLIFFHANGER ! COME BACK NEXT WEEK FOR ANOTHER INSTALLMENT
There is no real "timing" as you call it. The rack and pinion gear only will mesh in the housing one way. Basically get the pinion gear so the first tooth is visible in the housing and then slide the rack in. Simple as that.
Did you find the answer as I am now in the same boat, can't get back together and upper acuaturer hook to the little pin or if I do the key cylinder will not go in.
@@thejunkman So I am having to do this right now. I get everything in place but like others have said it seems the cylinder won't go back into the lock position correctly. Its just short of it and won't release the key. What position should the actuator be in when reinstalling the rack and pinion? The accessory position? The vehicle off position? Ready to start, etc? Maybe that is where I am getting my teeth miss-aligned?
my gear fell out and now im trying to put it back in, but not sure on how to position it. you quit right as i thought you were gonna put it back together!
im gonna turn the brass gear so that the rack will engage the first tooth and hope that is the standard position. i dont want to pull it apart multiple times to get the clock(position of the circular gear) right.
Great video! Ford D4AZ-3E717-A is the brass gear. I can’t seem to find this part anywhere. Anyone else having this problem or a solution to it? Thanks!
I changed everything like you did in the video like you did. I still had the same issue. I change the ignition switch and I’m back in business running like a champ! Lol thanks for the video!
I can't get that pinion that your holding at 4:35 seconds to go back into the gear under the ignition tumbler. It just won't start into it. I greased the bejesus out of it and still it's biting just before the first groove. Doesn't make any sense at all!!! I'm about to grind the end down to allow it the clearance. Any tips? You actually talk about it at the end of the video. The parts I have don't look worn but I'm just gonna get a new pinion and tiny sprocket and grease it all up and do all new! So annoying
You need to clock the gear to the rack just right. Start it on the first tooth of the gear. Also you may need to sand/file a bit of the paint away for clearance. It is also possible that your housing is worn with grooves from the play and now the new one won't fit quite correctly. You can see wear on my rack which matches the inside of the housing. That would be an extreme case.
@@thejunkman thank you for responding btw. I never got any new parts yet. I need a lower actuator but I was just trying to get mechanism back together because it fell out when I took everything apart and it just won't go. I was gonna grind it but I'm not haha. I'll just buy all new parts. Do you have a video on replacing all those parts that you gave part numbers for at the end?
Thanks,Application ready. Remember the expression "Teach a man how to fish and he wont go hungry ,Well..Now i believe i could just GO FISHING thanx to you !
@thejunkman Thanks for the great video. Today my '89 bronco would stall and die when I put it into gear. I thought I had a vacuum problem, but then realized my ignition stitch had alot of play in it. When I put truck into gear it would die, but intermittently if I touched the column the truck would die as well. Would this also be an indication of an ignition assembly broken as well? Thank you for your help.
Ok so I bought the book which helps but I can’t get the key out I have a 88 e350 trying to work on it my self we replaced the actuator that part you bought but didn’t need I bought a new key cylinder lock but it won’t even fit in the column. called Ford. They don’t sell them anymore and my key is stuck in the key cylinder that I had. What do you think is the problem with it?
I'm about to do this, too. Mine will start sometimes with no issue. Other times, I have to tilt the column before I start the truck. Since it will operate, I assume mine also isn't broken and is just gunky inside. Also, my key cylinder will be slow to return and seems a little stiff to turn at times. You mention to clean it and apply new grease. Won't that just collect grime again? Why not just clean it and leave it with no grease? Or maybe use a spray graphite lube so as not to attract dirt and grime?
Well mine took 25 years or so to gunk up. Your problem is most likely the wear on the rack just like mine. Graphite might work too, either way grit is going to get in there and wear it again. At that point the pickup will most definitely be junk or other more major things will need attention.
I got mine all back together. Felt like it was smooth…….. but, when I put my battery cables on my dash lights come on. I turn the key and it won’t start. The wait to start light doesn’t come on either. Not sure what is going on. I feel the upper actuator and gear drive line up. But something is off. Any help?
@@thejunkman The ignition switch? I just replaced it. How would I know what position? Isn’t it hooked to the actuator rod and moved by the gear shifter?
@@thejunkman Do you have a video on how to put that back together? I tried to move the rack to a different tooth but it seems like it only slides together one way.
Having issues with the placement of the tumbler and the key cylinder as it attaches to the actuator I had it in but the key would not turn back to lock position (so engine would not stop also the acc would not turn back because it basically stopped at the “RUN” position Any ideas would be appreciated
I was curious as to where the actual ignition switch is on the column? I have an 87 f150 that was having problems when I turned the key. It had to be in the sweet spot for all the indicators to turn on and work correctly. This evening I tried to start it and turned it to accessory and fuel pump came up and dash lights did and then I turn it a little more and now there is no power or indicators or anything that comes on when I turn the key. What do you think is the cause of that?
@@thejunkman I appreciate the reply. Every video I’ve watched for 80-92 shows the switch on top of the column. I removed the rear trim piece on the column and found the push rod that actuates the switch. So I’m assuming my switch is on top like in the videos. I haven’t pulled the dash trim and dropped the column yet though. New switch wont be here till Friday.
Yes it sits on top of the column, but down near the base almost to the floor. It has a lot of plastic that gets brittle over time and then the contacts wear out and that amount of "play" causes what you are experiencing. A broken actuator and these rack and pinon gears also contribute to this. Start at the switch as it is easier to replace. Then if it still is a bit funny working, then replace the parts in the video.
@@thejunkman okay, thank you. The key cylinder seems to turn alright and I can see the actuator pushing the rod to the switch, so I’m hoping I don’t have to go further than the switch. Also, can you tell me where and what color the fuseable link is for the ignition, and the location of the relay? I found 2 relays on the driver side by the wheel well. One has green connector and I can’t remember off hand the color of the other connector. Both relays are black and square shaped. Looks like somebody had changed them before because they say made in china and I don’t see a part number on them. Just the numbers and such for however they work.
The lock cylinder is readily available and so is the switch which is down on the lower end of the column (the lock cylinder does not contain the switch like on modern cars. I am not sure what you are asking? This video is specifically about the rack & pinon gear as well as the actuator rod that controls the switch on tilt/non tilt versions of Ford pickups and vans of this vintage.
Did you ever figured out how to take the washer with teeth from within the actuator out?? I have the same issue and have no idea how to get it out from within
Would not putting this assembly back together quite correctly keep the automatic gear lever from locking into place when the key is removed? I just got this 91 Bronco and really don't remember if it locked in place before I replaced my actuator key. But anyway it doesn't lock now
Hi I need that part I believe but for a 97 Ford f150 the rack part number. Can you help me with this. Just to be sure that is the price that engaged with the geer at the end of the key switch
Yeah, un huh, "lost keys", said every car thief. lol. But seriously though you call a lock smith or get a lock cylinder puller that will break the pin. Car thief's use lock cylinder pullers too.
Thanks for the great video! I've got a non tilt '84, with what I think is a similar issue. The only thing is I can't get the ignition switch to turn at all, not even to accessory. I've been trying to pull it out with no luck. Any thoughts?
You guys should upload a vid so we can see I had a similar problem with my 87 f150 but I figured it out but I would need to look at what’s giving you the issue
I love the way you just change scenes from before to after when removing the ignition housing after removing the lock cylinder. LoL been stuck at that point for awhile.
@@thejunkman Ok. Any idea why after I removed the 3 screws the ignition housing on my 89 F250 refuses to slide off? Removing the ignition switch changes nothing, the housing still won't come off.
@@thejunkman But they use different keys. An H50 and an H51. I can't find inter-changable cylinders to work one or the other for the doors or the ignition. I've been searching. I'll rekey it myself, just need help finding them. Thanks.
Alright so everyone is assuming this process worked right? So i opened mine up and dont find any obvious issues... Its always been sorta funky. Turn it all the way to start and nothing happens. Well now its permanently not starting. I just don't know man! What do i need to do?
If the arm is not broken like I mention, then it is probably the switch is broken. It is mostly plastic and degrades ovet time. Mine fell apart when I replaced it years ago.
Does anyone know why the switch won't turn? My 87 has been setting for 3 or 4 years and the key won't turn? It's an 87 with a 4 speed not an automatic so it has no steering wheel lock? I think?
@@thejunkman the part that connects between the ignition pinion gear and hooks to the actuator. Does it slide back in or do you have to take the gear out
The rack? It slides back in. Just line it up so the pinion gear is on its first tooth and slide the rack in. A screwdriver can help hold the pinon gear in the correct position.
It has been so long I don't remember the details, but the lower actuator rod hooks in via the roll pin and then the rack just hooks on the end and then guide it into the housing to mesh with the ignition switch gear on roughly the first tooth.
It should fit, I changed mine as well recently and when you put it right It should be okay You only need to kinda wiggle it in there side ways till you get it in there but after that it should sit normal
Hello there Mr Junkman sir...very fine video there, thanks. Can you help me to find the parts (rack and gear), do you have a go-to connection? I'm gonna figure a junk yard isn't a good option
So you want to steal a car... ;) The ignition switch is at the base of the steering column. Just remove the large connector, remove the two bolts on either side, unhook the actuator rod, and replace. There are plastic pieces that break within the switch from old age. For the key portion you can get a lock smith with lock cylinder puller to break the pin to remove the old lock cylinder and replace it with one from the auto-parts store. There is no need to remove the steering wheel like shown in the video.
Is this any different in an 82 WITHOUT the adjustable steering wheel as far as the ignition switch hung/locked up? Is it possible that my key is just wore out and not knocking all the tumblers??
So, my 85 F150 starts up, but I have to hold the key slightly cranked to keep it running. I taped the key in place to get home. Will doing this repair fix my issue?
When I say switch. I mean the actual ignition switch down near the end of the steering column near the floor/firewall. I have had the plastic parts in this very type of switch fall apart and then have the symptom you describe. If that doesn't fix it then the actuator part (seen 5:17) is probably broken or cracked/bent. It is common on tilt wheel models but happens on non-tilt versions.
@@thejunkman You were absolutely right! I there was nothing wrong with my lock cylinder or actuator, it was the ignition switch that was bad. I bought a new one and installed it, and it starts up like a dream now. Thank you for your replies! Very helpful
I bought a 91 f150 and they couldn't find the key, I know to release the cylinder you have to push that pin with ignition on but how should I go about this? ( tried drilling it but seemed to get me no where )
Umm, the lock cylinder is not made to come out in any way without a key easily because that would make it easier to steal. I am a little suspicious. Any how, you can't drill the pin its designed to spin to prevent easy theft. However locksmiths use a lock cylinder bypass tool is about $70 that will break the pin and get it out. I hope you have not damaged the bore of the pin by drilling. That part is expensive.
You do have to turn the key to be able to push that button in and so it can come out, I really don’t know maybe saw it off from the top and then drill it on the sides till you brake it in pieces
So i know this is late but my girlfriend is having a way worse problem but exactly like this too. hers wont turn the truck over any more the key can be parallel with the colum and it wont turn over. is there any ways to start the truck so i can move it 40 miles to my house without having to fix it there so i have all the tools i need next to me?
I had this issue recently and I figured out a way to turn on the truck from next to the battery Let me know if you need help I can point you in the right direction to turning the truck with a screw driver It’s so easy
My 1987 f250 with auto and tilt is doing exactly what yours is doing. Wish I could pay you to fix it. You don't live in San Diego do you.? I might have to try. Thank you
This could be an issue with the switch itself. Years before this I had the switch housing, which is plastic, get brittle and break causing the rod that runs down the column not to return fully or move the contacts to make the connections. Check that first.
thejunkman well I've completely torn everything down and removed the switch itself and I'm starting to wonder if it's not a travel distance issue, are you aware of wether or not it was possible to get one of these trucks without an accessory position?
@@nater2013 I just did this replacement procedure as well and I am having the same issue as you except mine won't even notch back into the position where you can remove the key. It is very close it just stops before I can get it there. I'm wondering if I somehow got the timing wrong between the pinion that the key turns and the rack that slides back and forth. Is that even possible? Did you ever figure out why yours wouldn't go into accessory?
I also had a problem with the switch itself. The plastic parts inside that held the springs disintegrated so a new switch on the bottom of the column also needed replaced for me.
@@thejunkman I replaced the switch first even though original wasn't faulty. The actuator piece was broken so replaced it. Truck turns on and starts but when I try to turn key back to remove position its like I hit a wall and it won't go any further so key is stuck in lock cylinder. I spent all day trying to figure out why. I dont think its possible to get rack and pinion out of time though idk for sure. Im at a loss.
You buy them separate from any Ford OEM parts supplier. Go here for the part numbers you need www.thejunkmanadv.com/the-junk-mans-blog/ford-ignition-switch-repair
That era of Chevy I believe just has a locking bolt that is removed, however either way FORD's method of actuation for the ignition switch is far more complicated with a lot more friction points. What you don't see in this video is I went ahead and replaced both bearings, and the turn signal switch plate as the self cancel was broken (plastic tab was broken). That requires removing the big spring and pivot pins and fishing the wiring harness down the column which has very little room.
Yes, the multi function stalk. Those aren't that bad to replace really as they come out as a unit with one connector. Not real expensive depending on the aftermarket OEM style you get. AC/Delco version, yeah that will be pricey.
At 2:35 you mention a button or pin to push to remove the key cylinder. Do I have to take the wheel off or is it possible to get to without removing the wheel.
My neighbor is an elderly woman whose husband recently passed away and she trying to get his 1990 Ford F250 smogged n ready to sale. I am attempting to help her do so but unfortunately we ran into a small snag. The vehicle starts but the ignition cylinder pops right back and turns off. Is this the actuator as well?Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. I have already changed the lock cylinder and that did not rectify the issue.
+Summer Lopez it probably is the actuator, or the switch itself becuase it has a spring to return the mechanism. Either way you will have to drop the column a bit to do the job
How the fuck do you change ONLY the lock cylinder? A guy I know who knows a lot about fords said you can just push on the pin on the cylinder through the hole on the bottom of the column, but I can't seem to reach that far in with a scribe. Do you have to pull the wheel to change the ignition lock only? I don't need to change the ignition switch
thejunkman awesome yeah I went and picked up an ignition and ignition switch and the actuator that you thought originally was the issue. Mine's doing everything correctly except when you move it forward to the start position it doesn't turn over... I'm honestly thinking it's the switch bolted to the column
So you want to steal a car ;) Kidding aside. Get a lock smith to make you a key so you can turn it. The cylinder has to be in the correct position to be able to push the "button" that keeps the cylinder in the housing. You can use a lock cylinder puller and that will break that pin off and could possibly damage the housing. This is the main security feature on this style. If the cylinder was easily removable without the key all a thief would have to do is remove the cylinder and use a screw driver to turn the pinion gear and thus push the actuator rod to start the vehicle. Call a lock smith and have them make you a key.
www.thejunkmanadv.com/the-junk-mans-blog/ford-ignition-switch-repair Visit this LINK for the Ford OEM part numbers for all the parts used to repair in this video.
thejunkman, I can't slide the rack back in its slot. I've been turning the key to move the gear in different positions but it won't slide back in there. What do I do?
Did you remove the entire lock cylinder housing? That is what I did and you just slide it in, use a flat screwdriver to move the gear to the right position (first tooth engaged) and it will just slide in. There is a retainer to remove for the rack obviously. Then after putting it on the column you need to hook up the push rod. Just the way it was taken apart.
@@thejunkman this is what I was trying to ask. I just can't get it in after an hour of fidgeting
Zo,08 I'll
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Those OEM part numbers you put in the description saved my friggin life. Thank you sir
Thanks For the demonstration. It was a huge help. I would never figured out how to get it all apart without your help. All that was needed on my vehicle was a good cleaning and lubricating to free things up.
Which brings up the question why lube it to begin with?
Thanks man! You know on mine,back before the aluminum actuator broke,I noticed that the key required more and more effort to turn the key to start,and would have to turn back CCW,or it would actually stay cranking if I did'nt like yours.Your the 1st one to mention the gear issue,and believe mine does have that problem too.Thanks again,and like your style of explaining the problem.You should do more of these instructional videos for automotive repair.
The automotive repair video market space is fairly saturated with people who do this better than me, but I appreciate the comment. I may do more in the future when a problem arises.
I wonder if that's what happened to mine. The starter was sticking. Turn the key backwards a bit and starter would disengage
Thank you! I watched and rewatched this video several times while working on tearing down and reassembling the ignition actuator on my 1990 F150. I got stuck on the reassembly portion getting that black gear piece realigned with the house and gold gear. Couldn't have done it without your help!
Thank God there's people like you I'm trying to get the gears to mesh in the proper spot and I'm trying to figure out what position should my ignition switch be in to mesh the rack and pinion in the proper spot I'm sure there's a sequence and I'm going to continue to watch and see if your info helps me but so far it looks like it's going to
This is why you run a jump wire to the solenoid to a starter botton on the dash turn the key to the on position and press a botton no third click with the key to fail
Hi I'm having this issue with my truck, I like the idea of the button. How do you wire that. Are you saying take a positive wire off solenoid go to one side of button. And then off other side of button go to positive of starter. Is that correct or is do you have a wiring diagram of what to do. That would save a lot of time instead of taking the stearing column apart. Great idea you have and would appreciate your help thank you
bypass that crappy engineering. a piece of plastic imagine that on such a important linkage. crp.
Wow my mechanic just told me that it was 4 hours of labor and $700 for the job. I think I need to find a new mechanic.
K K you can’t trust most mechanics these days. Best investment is to learn to fix things yourself.
Time is money
My mechanic said it was the flywheel $800
@@aleksf01 needs more blinker fluid too...
for the hassle its a good deal. better just bypass for a button on dash with a electric fuel pump kill.
thanks for makibg a video on this im buying a 1990 off my grandpa and when my dad had it im pretty sure he had a problem with it
+BSMotoVlogs once you get in there, its pretty straight forward. I replaced bearings in there too as they were loose.
Great informative video. I like how you explained. I think I definitely found my issue.
Thanks for the info. Just what I needed to put this issue behind me.
Great video. I don't have that exact problem. I have no accessory so I can listen to my stereo without the key switch in the on position. My key switch moves fluidly but the key switch does not turn backward for the accessory. As I turn the key forward to start, It has play and a catch as if there is an accessory forward not backward just before turning the switch to start.
Same here can’t figure out how to fix the issue
Are you going to finish the job? Where is part 2?
Good question
I wish you would have continued showing how you replace brass gear and other piece with teeth on it. I'm having trouble getting the piece with the loop to go back in where the gear is. Any tips ???. Thank you .
Line the gear up so the first tooth on the pinion gear us ready to accept the first tooth on the rack.
On reassembly of the steering wheel to the steering shaft please note there are timing marks on both the steering shaft and the steering wheel that need to be lined up to keep the steering Centered . This is important, the steering box has a sweet spot in it . It's about Road feel, and the steering of the vehicle feeling loose. Wondering sometimes.
BE NICE IF YOU OR SOMEONE WOULD FINISH THE LAST PART ABOUT THE INSTALLATION AND TIMING OF THE RACK AND PINION . HAD NO PREVIOUS PROBLEM WITH KEY SWITCH WORKING TILL I INSTALLED NEW ACTUATOR ROD, HAD TO REMOVE RACK TO HOOK PIN, PUT IT BACK TOGETHER, KEY OUT OF CLOCK, IN AND OUT MULTIPLE TIMES MUST BE A SECRET CODE TO GET IT IN TIME. MANY VIDEOS OUT THERE, OF WHICH YOURS IS THE BEST ! HOWEVER LIKE THE OTHERS , DOES NOT FINISH. LIKE A SERIAL CLIFFHANGER ! COME BACK NEXT WEEK FOR ANOTHER INSTALLMENT
There is no real "timing" as you call it. The rack and pinion gear only will mesh in the housing one way. Basically get the pinion gear so the first tooth is visible in the housing and then slide the rack in. Simple as that.
Did you find the answer as I am now in the same boat, can't get back together and upper acuaturer hook to the little pin or if I do the key cylinder will not go in.
@@thejunkman So I am having to do this right now. I get everything in place but like others have said it seems the cylinder won't go back into the lock position correctly. Its just short of it and won't release the key. What position should the actuator be in when reinstalling the rack and pinion? The accessory position? The vehicle off position? Ready to start, etc? Maybe that is where I am getting my teeth miss-aligned?
my gear fell out and now im trying to put it back in, but not sure on how to position it. you quit right as i thought you were gonna put it back together!
im gonna turn the brass gear so that the rack will engage the first tooth and hope that is the standard position. i dont want to pull it apart multiple times to get the clock(position of the circular gear) right.
That is how it should be.
Thank you for the video, my 1982 had this issue.
The ignition actuator rod that i purchased for my 89 had to be filed down because it was to large for the square hole that it slides through
Great video! Ford D4AZ-3E717-A is the brass gear. I can’t seem to find this part anywhere. Anyone else having this problem or a solution to it? Thanks!
The dealers can get it. My ford dealer had them in stock.
Thank ya kindly! Seems to be discontinued everywhere on the web
Sometimes they turn up on ebay as NOS parts too.
I changed everything like you did in the video like you did. I still had the same issue. I change the ignition switch and I’m back in business running like a champ! Lol thanks for the video!
So if my truck doesn't have the tilt steering this process is different and it's not the actuator rod?
As I recall the non tilt wheels have the same parts.
I can't get that pinion that your holding at 4:35 seconds to go back into the gear under the ignition tumbler. It just won't start into it. I greased the bejesus out of it and still it's biting just before the first groove. Doesn't make any sense at all!!! I'm about to grind the end down to allow it the clearance. Any tips? You actually talk about it at the end of the video. The parts I have don't look worn but I'm just gonna get a new pinion and tiny sprocket and grease it all up and do all new! So annoying
You need to clock the gear to the rack just right. Start it on the first tooth of the gear. Also you may need to sand/file a bit of the paint away for clearance. It is also possible that your housing is worn with grooves from the play and now the new one won't fit quite correctly. You can see wear on my rack which matches the inside of the housing. That would be an extreme case.
@@thejunkman thank you for responding btw. I never got any new parts yet. I need a lower actuator but I was just trying to get mechanism back together because it fell out when I took everything apart and it just won't go. I was gonna grind it but I'm not haha. I'll just buy all new parts. Do you have a video on replacing all those parts that you gave part numbers for at the end?
Thanks,Application ready. Remember the expression "Teach a man how to fish and he wont go hungry ,Well..Now i believe i could just GO FISHING thanx to you !
@thejunkman Thanks for the great video. Today my '89 bronco would stall and die when I put it into gear. I thought I had a vacuum problem, but then realized my ignition stitch had alot of play in it. When I put truck into gear it would die, but intermittently if I touched the column the truck would die as well. Would this also be an indication of an ignition assembly broken as well? Thank you for your help.
Yeah, probably.
Ok so I bought the book which helps but I can’t get the key out I have a 88 e350 trying to work on it my self we replaced the actuator that part you bought but didn’t need I bought a new key cylinder lock but it won’t even fit in the column. called Ford. They don’t sell them anymore and my key is stuck in the key cylinder that I had. What do you think is the problem with it?
I would get a lock smith at this point, or just go to the auto parts for a new key/lock cylinder combo. Those are easy to get.
im having a problem the spot where you put the part with teeth has been moved and i can not get it back on correctly
Situate the hear so the first tooth will engage the rack. It will go right in.
I'm about to do this, too. Mine will start sometimes with no issue. Other times, I have to tilt the column before I start the truck. Since it will operate, I assume mine also isn't broken and is just gunky inside. Also, my key cylinder will be slow to return and seems a little stiff to turn at times.
You mention to clean it and apply new grease. Won't that just collect grime again? Why not just clean it and leave it with no grease? Or maybe use a spray graphite lube so as not to attract dirt and grime?
Well mine took 25 years or so to gunk up. Your problem is most likely the wear on the rack just like mine. Graphite might work too, either way grit is going to get in there and wear it again. At that point the pickup will most definitely be junk or other more major things will need attention.
I got mine all back together. Felt like it was smooth…….. but, when I put my battery cables on my dash lights come on. I turn the key and it won’t start. The wait to start light doesn’t come on either. Not sure what is going on. I feel the upper actuator and gear drive line up. But something is off. Any help?
Is the switch on the bottom of the column in the right position? It is plastic and gets brittle over time.
@@thejunkman The ignition switch? I just replaced it. How would I know what position? Isn’t it hooked to the actuator rod and moved by the gear shifter?
Well then that isn't it. Probably the rack is is off a tooth then.
@@thejunkman Do you have a video on how to put that back together? I tried to move the rack to a different tooth but it seems like it only slides together one way.
That footage was lost, unfortunately. That is why it is not in this video.
Looking for same solution on a non tilt column 91 E350
Having issues with the placement of the tumbler and the key cylinder as it attaches to the actuator
I had it in but the key would not turn back to lock position (so engine would not stop also the acc would not turn back because it basically stopped at the “RUN” position
Any ideas would be appreciated
Probably the plastic housing of the ignition switch on the bottom of the column might be the issue.
Another question, what sort or grease or lube would you use on these parts? Is there a specific kind of grease?
I was curious as to where the actual ignition switch is on the column? I have an 87 f150 that was having problems when I turned the key. It had to be in the sweet spot for all the indicators to turn on and work correctly. This evening I tried to start it and turned it to accessory and fuel pump came up and dash lights did and then I turn it a little more and now there is no power or indicators or anything that comes on when I turn the key. What do you think is the cause of that?
The switch itself is at the base of the column. That is the problem. The contacts are worn.
@@thejunkman I appreciate the reply. Every video I’ve watched for 80-92 shows the switch on top of the column. I removed the rear trim piece on the column and found the push rod that actuates the switch. So I’m assuming my switch is on top like in the videos. I haven’t pulled the dash trim and dropped the column yet though. New switch wont be here till Friday.
Yes it sits on top of the column, but down near the base almost to the floor. It has a lot of plastic that gets brittle over time and then the contacts wear out and that amount of "play" causes what you are experiencing. A broken actuator and these rack and pinon gears also contribute to this. Start at the switch as it is easier to replace. Then if it still is a bit funny working, then replace the parts in the video.
@@thejunkman okay, thank you. The key cylinder seems to turn alright and I can see the actuator pushing the rod to the switch, so I’m hoping I don’t have to go further than the switch. Also, can you tell me where and what color the fuseable link is for the ignition, and the location of the relay? I found 2 relays on the driver side by the wheel well. One has green connector and I can’t remember off hand the color of the other connector. Both relays are black and square shaped. Looks like somebody had changed them before because they say made in china and I don’t see a part number on them. Just the numbers and such for however they work.
Where can I get parts for my 1992 Lincoln Town Car (switch cylinder)? FORD says they are obsolete and the after market one won't work.
The lock cylinder is readily available and so is the switch which is down on the lower end of the column (the lock cylinder does not contain the switch like on modern cars. I am not sure what you are asking? This video is specifically about the rack & pinon gear as well as the actuator rod that controls the switch on tilt/non tilt versions of Ford pickups and vans of this vintage.
@@thejunkman Sorry, but is this true for Town Cars also or just the vehicles you are dealing with in this video.
Yes, I just searched the parts you need.
Did you ever figured out how to take the washer with teeth from within the actuator out?? I have the same issue and have no idea how to get it out from within
I just want to know where do you buy the part that you fixed
Part numbers are on the description. There are many places. Ebay, OEM Ford parts distributor (online), Your local Ford dealer.
Would not putting this assembly back together quite correctly keep the automatic gear lever from locking into place when the key is removed? I just got this 91 Bronco and really don't remember if it locked in place before I replaced my actuator key. But anyway it doesn't lock now
It can be, but it has been my experience excessive wear on all the parts inside contributes to this as well.
Gunned up grease or rod down the column is bent or binding
I would replace the switch itself. The plastic breaks and the little shuttle binds.
Where did you get the rack and bronze gear?
Those are OEM, from any Ford OEM parts supplier.
Hi I need that part I believe but for a 97 Ford f150 the rack part number. Can you help me with this. Just to be sure that is the price that engaged with the geer at the end of the key switch
Check the description.
How do you take the key switch out if you've lost your keys?
Yeah, un huh, "lost keys", said every car thief. lol. But seriously though you call a lock smith or get a lock cylinder puller that will break the pin. Car thief's use lock cylinder pullers too.
Thanks for the great video! I've got a non tilt '84, with what I think is a similar issue. The only thing is I can't get the ignition switch to turn at all, not even to accessory. I've been trying to pull it out with no luck. Any thoughts?
The arm is probably broken, or the ignition switch is stuck as in the rod that actuates it has jammed in the switch
@@thejunkman I've been told that I should just drill it out to get it out. Does that sound about right?
It is hard drilling and you will probably ruin the casting. I wouldn't.
Update!? I think i have the same issue on my 83' F250
You guys should upload a vid so we can see
I had a similar problem with my 87 f150 but I figured it out but I would need to look at what’s giving you the issue
I love the way you just change scenes from before to after when removing the ignition housing after removing the lock cylinder. LoL been stuck at that point for awhile.
I kind of apologize, this video was kind of a cluster F__ as I had audio and video problems. This is what was salvageable.
@@thejunkman Ok. Any idea why after I removed the 3 screws the ignition housing on my 89 F250 refuses to slide off? Removing the ignition switch changes nothing, the housing still won't come off.
Is there any way to get 1 key to work both the doors and the ignition?
Yes. Have a locksmith key the doors to the ignition or vice versa.
@@thejunkman But they use different keys. An H50 and an H51. I can't find inter-changable cylinders to work one or the other for the doors or the ignition. I've been searching. I'll rekey it myself, just need help finding them. Thanks.
Alright so everyone is assuming this process worked right? So i opened mine up and dont find any obvious issues... Its always been sorta funky. Turn it all the way to start and nothing happens. Well now its permanently not starting. I just don't know man! What do i need to do?
If the arm is not broken like I mention, then it is probably the switch is broken. It is mostly plastic and degrades ovet time. Mine fell apart when I replaced it years ago.
Does anyone know why the switch won't turn? My 87 has been setting for 3 or 4 years and the key won't turn? It's an 87 with a 4 speed not an automatic so it has no steering wheel lock? I think?
Fuking hate dealing with car parts that are stupid to put back together thanks
Hello I can’t seem to find the part numbers you said. All of the websites say discontinued do you know where to still get the parts?
I have not researched it. It is possible the OEM numbers have changed. You might try EBAY.
How do you get it back together. Mine will not go back in
Which part?
@@thejunkman the part that connects between the ignition pinion gear and hooks to the actuator. Does it slide back in or do you have to take the gear out
The rack? It slides back in. Just line it up so the pinion gear is on its first tooth and slide the rack in. A screwdriver can help hold the pinon gear in the correct position.
any tips on connecting the two actuators on re installation... im running into a problem where i cant reconnect the upper and lower actuator
It has been so long I don't remember the details, but the lower actuator rod hooks in via the roll pin and then the rack just hooks on the end and then guide it into the housing to mesh with the ignition switch gear on roughly the first tooth.
It should fit, I changed mine as well recently and when you put it right
It should be okay
You only need to kinda wiggle it in there side ways till you get it in there but after that it should sit normal
Hello there Mr Junkman sir...very fine video there, thanks. Can you help me to find the parts (rack and gear), do you have a go-to connection? I'm gonna figure a junk yard isn't a good option
Link in the description for more info.
How do I replace a broken ignition switch for a 1998 350 Ford econoline and start it no key
So you want to steal a car... ;) The ignition switch is at the base of the steering column. Just remove the large connector, remove the two bolts on either side, unhook the actuator rod, and replace. There are plastic pieces that break within the switch from old age. For the key portion you can get a lock smith with lock cylinder puller to break the pin to remove the old lock cylinder and replace it with one from the auto-parts store. There is no need to remove the steering wheel like shown in the video.
Is this any different in an 82 WITHOUT the adjustable steering wheel as far as the ignition switch hung/locked up? Is it possible that my key is just wore out and not knocking all the tumblers??
They are similar.
You didn't show the ignition switch. Any part 2 coming?
+fishin n flyin this video is about the actuator mechanism
So, my 85 F150 starts up, but I have to hold the key slightly cranked to keep it running. I taped the key in place to get home. Will doing this repair fix my issue?
Maybe, but I would say the switch is probably worn too. Replace the switch first, then do the actuator repair.
@@thejunkman When you say "switch" are you referring to replacing the lock cylinder?
When I say switch. I mean the actual ignition switch down near the end of the steering column near the floor/firewall. I have had the plastic parts in this very type of switch fall apart and then have the symptom you describe. If that doesn't fix it then the actuator part (seen 5:17) is probably broken or cracked/bent. It is common on tilt wheel models but happens on non-tilt versions.
@@thejunkman You were absolutely right! I there was nothing wrong with my lock cylinder or actuator, it was the ignition switch that was bad. I bought a new one and installed it, and it starts up like a dream now. Thank you for your replies! Very helpful
I bought a 91 f150 and they couldn't find the key, I know to release the cylinder you have to push that pin with ignition on but how should I go about this? ( tried drilling it but seemed to get me no where )
Umm, the lock cylinder is not made to come out in any way without a key easily because that would make it easier to steal. I am a little suspicious. Any how, you can't drill the pin its designed to spin to prevent easy theft. However locksmiths use a lock cylinder bypass tool is about $70 that will break the pin and get it out. I hope you have not damaged the bore of the pin by drilling. That part is expensive.
You do have to turn the key to be able to push that button in and so it can come out, I really don’t know maybe saw it off from the top and then drill it on the sides till you brake it in pieces
I can't begin to tell you how disappointed I am you didn't show how you replaced the shift lock actuator.
It was not the problem, but if you have taken it this far the actuator arm just slides out.
Could you tell me the name of these parts or brand and part number for cross reference?
These are OEM only parts. The rack and pinion gear are the names. Any OEM parts supplier can get these, just look them up.
So i know this is late but my girlfriend is having a way worse problem but exactly like this too. hers wont turn the truck over any more the key can be parallel with the colum and it wont turn over. is there any ways to start the truck so i can move it 40 miles to my house without having to fix it there so i have all the tools i need next to me?
Crawl under the dash and on the column. Unbolt the ignition switch and just slide it with your hand to get it to start it.
I had this issue recently and I figured out a way to turn on the truck from next to the battery
Let me know if you need help I can point you in the right direction to turning the truck with a screw driver
It’s so easy
Is this the cause of my starter not shutting off with turning the to off and removing it it's still cranking the starter?
Possibly, could be a broken switch. The switch is just plastic down on the bottom of the column.
@@thejunkman okay, I assume if I can find it I hope it is as the other parts are pretty expensive.
@@thejunkman thank you
Anybody know how to get the rack back in its slot with the gear. Mine was out when I pulled it apart. now it won't go back in???
It just slides in from the back if I remember. It's been a while since this video.
@@thejunkman thanks, I'll give it a go. Appreciate you answering back!
How do you get the little pin out of the old actuator rod?
it is just a small roll pin. Drive it out with a small punch.
My 1987 f250 with auto and tilt is doing exactly what yours is doing. Wish I could pay you to fix it. You don't live in San Diego do you.? I might have to try. Thank you
I replace the cylinder but now no power my dash and fuel pump won’t engage
Probably the switch is bad or broken. Check on the lower end of the steering column.
@@thejunkman got it. I had to disassemble the steering wheel and align some of the parts inside
Any of you guy's know what the part that connects to the actuator is. The part with the teeth? My teeth are worn down and can't engage the actuator.
The rack. I have the part number in the description.
@@thejunkman thank you
I've recently done this myself and I'm having issue getting my auxiliary position back, could you provide some insight please
This could be an issue with the switch itself. Years before this I had the switch housing, which is plastic, get brittle and break causing the rod that runs down the column not to return fully or move the contacts to make the connections. Check that first.
thejunkman well I've completely torn everything down and removed the switch itself and I'm starting to wonder if it's not a travel distance issue, are you aware of wether or not it was possible to get one of these trucks without an accessory position?
@@nater2013 I just did this replacement procedure as well and I am having the same issue as you except mine won't even notch back into the position where you can remove the key. It is very close it just stops before I can get it there. I'm wondering if I somehow got the timing wrong between the pinion that the key turns and the rack that slides back and forth. Is that even possible? Did you ever figure out why yours wouldn't go into accessory?
I also had a problem with the switch itself. The plastic parts inside that held the springs disintegrated so a new switch on the bottom of the column also needed replaced for me.
@@thejunkman I replaced the switch first even though original wasn't faulty. The actuator piece was broken so replaced it. Truck turns on and starts but when I try to turn key back to remove position its like I hit a wall and it won't go any further so key is stuck in lock cylinder. I spent all day trying to figure out why. I dont think its possible to get rack and pinion out of time though idk for sure. Im at a loss.
Do I have to have the steering wheel puller?
Yes, it is a press fit.
Yeah you’re probably going to need it for sure auto zone has it and they’ll let you borrow it
Do anyone know were can I buy a new housing key cylinder
That would be a junkyard item. Also Ebay maybe
Does anyone on here have the part number for the ignition cylinder?
Those can be had at just about any parts store.
where do you find the rack and pinion set
plz helpppppp
You buy them separate from any Ford OEM parts supplier. Go here for the part numbers you need www.thejunkmanadv.com/the-junk-mans-blog/ford-ignition-switch-repair
If you wouldn't mind I really need the website or part number or something so I can find the gear and rack, I can't find them anywhere
This will be a dealer only part, so call up the nearest dealer to order. Gear p/n D4AZ3E717A Rack p/n D1AZ3E723C
That looks a lot easier than a mid 90s chevy ignition and lock assembly.
They are both about the same as far as difficulty to get to all the parts.
That era of Chevy I believe just has a locking bolt that is removed, however either way FORD's method of actuation for the ignition switch is far more complicated with a lot more friction points. What you don't see in this video is I went ahead and replaced both bearings, and the turn signal switch plate as the self cancel was broken (plastic tab was broken). That requires removing the big spring and pivot pins and fishing the wiring harness down the column which has very little room.
My truck just has this Swiss army switch assembly that included wiper, hazards, and turn signal. It's expensive. lol
Yes, the multi function stalk. Those aren't that bad to replace really as they come out as a unit with one connector. Not real expensive depending on the aftermarket OEM style you get. AC/Delco version, yeah that will be pricey.
What's the name of the teethed piece or a part number pls
2:35 what button can I get to it without taking the wheel off?
Huh? I am not sure what you are asking.
At 2:35 you mention a button or pin to push to remove the key cylinder. Do I have to take the wheel off or is it possible to get to without removing the wheel.
No. You can get the lock cylinder out without taking the wheel off if you need to.
I need to replace the same part in my e350, where did you get the part? ((The piece with worn down teeth))
+James Ray from an OEM Ford parts distributor online. This type of part is not available from the aftermarket, like Dorman, that I am aware of.
Where did you find the gear and rack at I've looked everywhere for new ones
These parts are only available from the OEM. Any Ford dealer or Ford OEM parts distributor can get them.
thejunkman thank you sir I appreciate it should be the same parts for an 88 bronco correct
Yes. with tilt wheel. They used the same parts across many models and model years.
What if you dont have key
You'll need a locksmith to make you one.
My neighbor is an elderly woman whose husband recently passed away and she trying to get his 1990 Ford F250 smogged n ready to sale. I am attempting to help her do so but unfortunately we ran into a small snag. The vehicle starts but the ignition cylinder pops right back and turns off. Is this the actuator as well?Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. I have already changed the lock cylinder and that did not rectify the issue.
+Summer Lopez it probably is the actuator, or the switch itself becuase it has a spring to return the mechanism. Either way you will have to drop the column a bit to do the job
I need the gear for a 1991 Ford Mustang can anyone help?
Your local Ford dealer, or any OEM parts supplier can.
What if you don’t have a key to turn on drill it out
What?
What if the key is missing how do I change it then
Probably need to get a lock smith on board as you need to turn the cylinder to remove it as a security feature.
HOW BOUT A VIDEO ON THE INSTALLATION AND TIMING OF THE GEAR
+Clint Bennett ??
Yes!!
Why do you do a video and not show the process
How could you comment without watching the video?
How the fuck do you change ONLY the lock cylinder? A guy I know who knows a lot about fords said you can just push on the pin on the cylinder through the hole on the bottom of the column, but I can't seem to reach that far in with a scribe. Do you have to pull the wheel to change the ignition lock only? I don't need to change the ignition switch
Just use something with a long thin shaft and make sure the key is in the Run position this is all outlined in the video
I don’t have a button
What is the teethed piece called or the part number please...thx for the vid
That is the rack, the brass gear is the pinion.
thejunkman awesome yeah I went and picked up an ignition and ignition switch and the actuator that you thought originally was the issue. Mine's doing everything correctly except when you move it forward to the start position it doesn't turn over... I'm honestly thinking it's the switch bolted to the column
I'm assuming a 1990 EB Ford Bronco fits this hahahh
I drilled it
Good to know.
I have 86 f350 that will statt
Its 529pm sun
Harley mini 🚲
What the hell was Ford smoking!?
This is pretty common on a lot of pre-2000's vehicles.
He never did part 2...
I guess you didn't read the text at the very beginning.
I saw it . Guess you dont like joking comments.wow in today's world ya cant be to serious bub
I guess not :/
Ah
Bro you didn’t show us nothing but how to take it apart putting it back together would’ve been nice just wasted 10 minutes of my day
Did you read the text in the video? The reassembly footage was corrupt, however it is just the reverse of the removal.
take ignition switch off the description
Great video just a side note, you need some Sun in your life maybe it's the chem trails in your area 😐
+Tahir Rana the lighring is very good in this video
What if you don't have the keys
So you want to steal a car ;) Kidding aside. Get a lock smith to make you a key so you can turn it. The cylinder has to be in the correct position to be able to push the "button" that keeps the cylinder in the housing. You can use a lock cylinder puller and that will break that pin off and could possibly damage the housing. This is the main security feature on this style. If the cylinder was easily removable without the key all a thief would have to do is remove the cylinder and use a screw driver to turn the pinion gear and thus push the actuator rod to start the vehicle. Call a lock smith and have them make you a key.