Zieh-Fix have self-drilling screws for their bell puller tool. No drill bits needed. For large cores you can use one of the smaller screws first before inserting the largest one. Sidenote: these american locks seem to have cores made of cheese without any hardened anti-drill pins.
That was great watching. I was wondering if that would be successful on a high security lock like a Medeco or others with anti drill pins and plates? Great video 👍🏻
That poor master lock. He didn't know why you were killing him with a drill when he's so easy to pick. His existence was pain, you did the right thing.
Bill, the puller looks to work amazingly. Have you heard of anoother tool that also lets you drill the core. HPC Cylinder Eater - The Professional Way to Drill (CE-6000). Just curious on your comments for both tools compared.
Bill, if the front of your drill ratchets when tightening the bit; ratchet it and then back off one click and it'll be in the locked position. Then your drill bit will not slip.
Can you explain that further? How does the clamping force increase when you go one click backwards? Is that a general mechanism that is integrated in all higher quality drills? I am interested...
Ya forget that wrench throw a Milwaukee high torque impact on there and watch that core come flying out I don’t care if it’s fit brass pins steel pins or even tungsten pins it’s coming out 😂
Based on what I am seeing you do, the amount of money you had to spend, and the fact that I am a 20+ year practicing locksmith, not just a sporter, I don't see the need for this expense and trouble. If I have to use a drill, to partially drill anything out, I will just go ahead, center punch my victim core, drill it out, pick out the pins, and the open the lock. I have saved myself nearly $200 for a tool that is really not needed nor is it worth it, and I am usually in, way before you get your core pulled. Bill, love your show but tool borders on the absurd and worthless, for a practical application, in the field. I just, for the life of me see where it's needed. If you have to drill, you are going to have to replace so your saving nothing, absolutely nothing. So just drill it out normally, replace the lock, collect your fee, and get on down the line.
the only real use for this is locks with lots of anti drill pins in them, you can drill an unprotected and useless angle through the core between the antidrill pins instead of burning up expensive bits or worse breaking one off in the core. i see this being way more useful in europe where locks with strong antidrill features are common and double/triple sided dimple cores make drilling the shear line annoying at best
What if the lock core has hardened anti-drill pins? Do you think you would still be able to drill enough of a hole to get the screw in? Also. the Multipick site says "No pre-drilling required! It screws into the cylinder efficiently, thanks to a newly-developed drill-bit-tip and the DELTA SEAL® anti-friction coating." It would be nice to see that demonstrated. Lastly, what about using the screws with a slide-hammer?
You probably won't even feel these pins and you're right: There's no need to drill the hole before screwing the screw in. These screws he's screwing into the lock have a drill bit in front of the screw area, so he should simply screw the screws into the lock meow. :)
There are drill bits which have hexagonal 1/4 in ends. They won't slip in the drill chuck, and can be put into a bit holder, too, for quick change between screwdriving bit and drill bit.
Self drilling screws, is it really necessary to pre drill? If you have to and can drill that hole, why not just drill the core and call it good? Any reason why the screws could not be unscrewed and reused?
There are times when crouching in front of your 40th lock to pick in a row, in a building where they've lost all the keys (or never had them). You have to get all the cores out to replace all the hardware anyway; but most of the lock cores are crapped out and gummed up... making picking more difficult than it should be. This might be a consideration for, "Let's pull out the big guns, and get this job done!". --- Wishing I had this a couple months ago. 👍 Nice review, saw the tool before, but then these screws were being featured. Nice to see they're actually tough enough to work! - Stay awesome!
@@cardiffpicker1 I'm absolutely sure he could have reused the screws...I just would have liked to see how many uses he could have got from them. As far as the anti-drill goes though..."isn't really a problem" would not be how I describe my experience with them. It can be quite difficult to get the drill bit to bite on the core when it is engaging the spinner. Also, hardened steel anti-drill pins can ruin drill bits very quickly. It certainly would have not been the 1-2 second process we saw in the video.
@@MrV1NC3N7V3G4 anti drill pins very rarely come into play with a small drill bit through the keyway,spinners are easily jammed so drilling can be done. I have some pull screws I have used well over 10 times,as long as you dont screww the head up they will last a while.
thieves who didn't know about this device now do. Oh well. lol. Maybe you can make some with you lathe (pretty simple to do) and ask Sparrows to put them on their site for sale. Thanks for the vid and all the best to you Mr. Bill.
I think sparrows would never do that. They are more about the hobby aspect and not the "easiest way" to get in aspect. This is a tool for a thief or someone who has a job opening doors, not for a hobbyist
Those screws are standard gsk/tek brand concrete backer board screws. Even the colors match for sizing. You can easily skip the drill step and impact them straight in with an impact driver. See LPL's video with him doing just that. The lock plate only needs to be used to keep from marring the lock or the door. If you don't care, you don't need the plate. For the price you are paying they didn't even make the wrench ratcheting.
I don't think you should have pre drilled them, for the sake of the video it would have been better if you'd tried the self drilling action of the screws because sometimes it may not be possible or practical to drill them
I would think an impact driver with a torx bit and a 3/8"s adapter and 19mm socket you could pop cores in under 20 seconds. those screws have drill heads, so you should be able to drive them right in.
I'm curious; what happens to all the pins in the lock that normally stop the core turning. Why don't they prevent the core being pulled? ...and seeing how you're drilling down the keyway first to get the screw in, why don't you just drill all the pins out and turn the cylinder with a screwdriver? That's the way I first used to drill padlocks - not through the sheer-line, but through the middle of the keyway and then dump all the pins out. It was nice to see a demonstration of masterlock's inability to make an anti-drill plate.
The pins are usually made of brass, which is comparatively soft anyway, but if you put it against a quite frankly horrific amount of torque (notice how much Bill has to turn the wrench to actually get the screw to back out), then it actually shears any pins that are blocking the normal shear line. Plus, that plate on the Master isn't an anti drill plate, it's a turn restrictor. Anti drill plates will be free spinning.
I understand, but sometimes there isn't enough room in the lock body for the core to expand to fit the screw. If you try to do it anyway, either the screw breaks or the core is completely wedged into place and can't be extracted.
Great video. This part still has me confused, the self-tapping screws should be drilling the same diameter hole your drill is, that is the purpose of those screws. I could see concerns about expanding the core if there was nowhere for the screw's shavings to go but it should easily fit into the keyway not occupied by the screw. Was the above comment made after testing self-tapping screws (like the Vipers) or just with trying regular screws (which totally makes sense for seizing the core due to expansion).
@@bosnianbill used exactly this tool from mp 20 years ago and there are different type of screws because of different types and wides of keyways.. if you have a wide keyway, you take the bigger screw and for small keyways the smaller screw Mostly the screw will only break if its not exactly straight screwed in. greetings from germany. PS: You can also rip the entire eurocylinder in two pieces if you dont use the plate
With this Tool you don‘t have to drill a hole. You just drive the screw into the keyway. They also have a Torx Bit adapter where the screw can be fixed in and can‘t slip out. But drilling a hole is not the right way this tool was designed to be used.
Self drilling screws work just fine in steel but not worth a damn in softer metals like aluminum or brass. God I hate aluminum! Pre-drilling is the fastest way to get a screw in soft metal. There is no spillage in the way and heat is reduced considerably. Trust me. I have hundreds of hours doing this.
RUclips needs to get their s#!t together! Couldn't watch the LockLab's patreon supporter preview. With everything slowed down in the world because of the pandemic, you'd think RUclips would have their employees working on any glitches they can! Great video & excellent giveaway, Bill!
Those screws look very close to a masonry screw. Maybe save some money buying tapcons? Not sure about ratings on them or if they would thread ok. Just an idea
Isn't that screw supposed to be driven in directly into core, without pre-drilling? Some locks have anti-drill pins and inserts in core and body, wouldn't that be a issue to drive that screw as is with drilling? Than might be useful on euro locks or other ones where body is on bottom, so it's a bit harder to remove pins, as they don't drop out, but other than that I don't see the point bothering with drilling a hole and then inserting that screw, if you can simply drill out pins? Or did I get all that wrong and I am missing something?
Did any of those locks have anti-drill protection features and if so why didn't they work because it looked like they're pointless how that drill went through them??
MultiPick could have made the face plates interface with the bell in a way to keep everything centered so you don’t have to fuss with ensuring everything is lined up.
Hi bill, I was wondering, if you have to drill it anyway, do you think it’s often enough that pulling the core is either faster or necessary to open the lock as compared to just drilling the pins, sidebar, etc.
Bill, would it do the Euros that are Flush ir just recessed intobthe Handle Furniture?, ? Nice Vid , beats tge Drilling and clearingvtge pins outta the Way
Seems like you never drilled a core. Let me share my experiences so far... Drilling or milling the core is not as fast and clean as pulling it. I did get chips and loose parts of the lock stuck in the cylinder which meant more drilling and cleaning to finally be able to unlock the door. That's probably why we (at least the firedepartment where I work) prefer to pull the entire cylinder if possible and then proceed to open the door with a cylinder cam turner. Much cleaner and faster. We're also using selfutting screws so no drilling beforehand is necessasy.
@@BuildUpAKingdom Yes, I agree. In the field of emergency entry speed and certainty are king. A locksmith can take the time to try cost saving measures, but not the EMS folks.
Honestly hands down the best destructive method I've ever seen. Especially if you are under the gun for time and have to get in fast. I can definitely see why this kit will be your best friend in an emergency situation.
I sometimes use this tool with these screws of course that I bought from multipick and I do not regret it! just one thing i saw in your video which is very well done! with the screws it is not necessary to drill first because these screws are self-drilling.
j'utilise parfois cet outil avec ces visses bien sûr que j'ai acheté chez multipick et je ne le regrette pas ! juste une chose que j'ai vu dans votre vidéo qui est très bien faite ! avec les visses il n'est pas utile de percer avant car ces visses sont auto-perforantes.
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![[974] Core Puller vs. “Hyper Tough” Deadbolt](/img/tr.png)
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Zieh-Fix have self-drilling screws for their bell puller tool. No drill bits needed. For large cores you can use one of the smaller screws first before inserting the largest one. Sidenote: these american locks seem to have cores made of cheese without any hardened anti-drill pins.
This tool caught my attention. I'm a tool freak, so to speak. My wife wants to know if I really need one... I'm thinking yes...
Man, that loose Chuck was driving me crazy 😅. You looked like you were having a blast. Awesome giveaway.
Great, seriously in-depth review! That's a ridiculously effective tool to have around 😀👍
That was great watching. I was wondering if that would be successful on a high security lock like a Medeco or others with anti drill pins and plates? Great video 👍🏻
How I found this channel I have no idea, but been watching for a few years now I think. I just want to say ever video you put out is 🔥🔥🔥🔥
"I can hear those threads cutting..."
No it's the lock screaming!
No animals were injured in the making of this video. Locks on the other hand...
Yes, but plenty of locks were ... INJURED.
Respect for the brave locks that gave their lives to entertain us today. F
That poor master lock. He didn't know why you were killing him with a drill when he's so easy to pick. His existence was pain, you did the right thing.
"Now i can just open it with a screwdriver" Bill, you could have done that from the start.
Wasn't that a drill resistant lock?
@@burkemyers8459 I'm sure the package said it was.
@@SanityDoesNotSell isn't that so very typical of Master Lock, lol.
@@burkemyers8459 ah yes "drill resistant"
Amazing how fast and quiet it is
But if we can drill into the lock wouldn't we just drill the shear line then turn the lock without the need for this tool?
i though some put ball bearing so u cant drill or harden drill pins
Not if there are anti-drill features in there.
This tool is making it easier and a lot cleaner than drilling the core. By drilling you can get chips stuck - then the lock won't turn at all.
With headphones on, the sound of Bill driving those torx screws in was giving me the willies.... Urgh! Lol
When he got to the Mindy padlock, he's already just having fun destroying these.
Such a nice looking lock that Mindy.. bit of a shame.. no mercy for the Master lock though :)
@@PDeRop The Master was mandatory, would not have been a complete test without it, it sort of sets the standard (not)..
I'm guessing Bills naughty bucket is going to be getting low!
Yes many delinquent locks will be presenting themselves for picking only after today!
Bill, the puller looks to work amazingly. Have you heard of anoother tool that also lets you drill the core. HPC Cylinder Eater - The Professional Way to Drill (CE-6000). Just curious on your comments for both tools compared.
Awww l would have loved to had that mindy lock it’s so beautiful and I’ve never seen one like it before.
Would have been a good time to get even with some of those naughty bucket locks!
Bill, if the front of your drill ratchets when tightening the bit; ratchet it and then back off one click and it'll be in the locked position.
Then your drill bit will not slip.
Big if true.
Can you explain that further? How does the clamping force increase when you go one click backwards? Is that a general mechanism that is integrated in all higher quality drills? I am interested...
Ya forget that wrench throw a Milwaukee high torque impact on there and watch that core come flying out I don’t care if it’s fit brass pins steel pins or even tungsten pins it’s coming out 😂
Based on what I am seeing you do, the amount of money you had to spend, and the fact that I am a 20+ year practicing locksmith, not just a sporter, I don't see the need for this expense and trouble. If I have to use a drill, to partially drill anything out, I will just go ahead, center punch my victim core, drill it out, pick out the pins, and the open the lock. I have saved myself nearly $200 for a tool that is really not needed nor is it worth it, and I am usually in, way before you get your core pulled. Bill, love your show but tool borders on the absurd and worthless, for a practical application, in the field. I just, for the life of me see where it's needed. If you have to drill, you are going to have to replace so your saving nothing, absolutely nothing. So just drill it out normally, replace the lock, collect your fee, and get on down the line.
But does your method look as awesome? ;)
Does your technique work on the tougher locks with hardened inserts?
the only real use for this is locks with lots of anti drill pins in them, you can drill an unprotected and useless angle through the core between the antidrill pins instead of burning up expensive bits or worse breaking one off in the core. i see this being way more useful in europe where locks with strong antidrill features are common and double/triple sided dimple cores make drilling the shear line annoying at best
Johnny Baker thinking exactly the same.
What if the lock core has hardened anti-drill pins? Do you think you would still be able to drill enough of a hole to get the screw in? Also. the Multipick site says "No pre-drilling required! It screws into the cylinder efficiently, thanks to a newly-developed drill-bit-tip and the DELTA SEAL® anti-friction coating." It would be nice to see that demonstrated. Lastly, what about using the screws with a slide-hammer?
You probably won't even feel these pins and you're right: There's no need to drill the hole before screwing the screw in. These screws he's screwing into the lock have a drill bit in front of the screw area, so he should simply screw the screws into the lock meow. :)
@camjamsdad I highly doubt that it'll seize the core enough to prevent an extraction.
There are drill bits which have hexagonal 1/4 in ends. They won't slip in the drill chuck, and can be put into a bit holder, too, for quick change between screwdriving bit and drill bit.
You made the master lock more secure by pulling the core 😜 you can’t pick in that way
That's really cool. Imagine the time I could save on jobs when picking isn't working. I may get one of those.
How good is the door locks after you use a tap con screw that can be purchased from home depot for 10 dollars for a hundred screws.
Nice! Emty naughty bucket!
Self drilling screws, is it really necessary to pre drill? If you have to and can drill that hole, why not just drill the core and call it good? Any reason why the screws could not be unscrewed and reused?
There are times when crouching in front of your 40th lock to pick in a row, in a building where they've lost all the keys (or never had them). You have to get all the cores out to replace all the hardware anyway; but most of the lock cores are crapped out and gummed up... making picking more difficult than it should be. This might be a consideration for, "Let's pull out the big guns, and get this job done!". --- Wishing I had this a couple months ago.
👍 Nice review, saw the tool before, but then these screws were being featured. Nice to see they're actually tough enough to work! - Stay awesome!
German Firefighter standard tool btw.
Yeah. They are called "ZiehFix" which means "Pull Fast".
hy Bill, can't you directly screw without drilling?
When i look the tips of the screws, it seem that they are auto drill screws
Yes, that is why they have such specific sizes of screws.
Those drill tips are meant for sheet metal and are an absolute nightmare without pre-drilling.
That was so cool to watch! And it looks really well made.
Question - what was the big silver-ish key like tool that's supplied with the kit?
Me too?
"No idea if this is gonna work"... it's a master lock, of course it's going to work.
I'm surprised the masterlock didnt open when threatened
At some point, a large enough hole will allow you to de-pin the lock and open it.
That is true, AND the core just spins and the lock automatically pops open!
I'd like to have seen you reuse those $1 screws! Also would have liked to see how well they work on a lock with anti-drill bars and/or spinners.
They are fine to be re used anti drill isnt really a problem.
@@cardiffpicker1 I'm absolutely sure he could have reused the screws...I just would have liked to see how many uses he could have got from them. As far as the anti-drill goes though..."isn't really a problem" would not be how I describe my experience with them. It can be quite difficult to get the drill bit to bite on the core when it is engaging the spinner. Also, hardened steel anti-drill pins can ruin drill bits very quickly. It certainly would have not been the 1-2 second process we saw in the video.
Problem is if they fatigue and snap off in the lock there's no way you would be able to drill it out.
@@MrV1NC3N7V3G4 anti drill pins very rarely come into play with a small drill bit through the keyway,spinners are easily jammed so drilling can be done.
I have some pull screws I have used well over 10 times,as long as you dont screww the head up they will last a while.
@@cardiffpicker1 Yeah, the smaller bits might slip right between the anti-drill pins.
Will you be able to mount a new core inte hole or is it completely ruined? Also, do you think you would be able to reuse the screws?
thieves who didn't know about this device now do. Oh well. lol. Maybe you can make some with you lathe (pretty simple to do) and ask Sparrows to put them on their site for sale.
Thanks for the vid and all the best to you Mr. Bill.
I think sparrows would never do that. They are more about the hobby aspect and not the "easiest way" to get in aspect. This is a tool for a thief or someone who has a job opening doors, not for a hobbyist
Tap Con Screws are as tough as they get.
Awesome
Those screws are standard gsk/tek brand concrete backer board screws. Even the colors match for sizing. You can easily skip the drill step and impact them straight in with an impact driver. See LPL's video with him doing just that.
The lock plate only needs to be used to keep from marring the lock or the door. If you don't care, you don't need the plate.
For the price you are paying they didn't even make the wrench ratcheting.
With the brass core, I was almost thinking the screw would expand the core so much it would seize. but damn! it pulled that core out like butter!
I don't think you should have pre drilled them, for the sake of the video it would have been better if you'd tried the self drilling action of the screws because sometimes it may not be possible or practical to drill them
I would think an impact driver with a torx bit and a 3/8"s adapter and 19mm socket you could pop cores in under 20 seconds. those screws have drill heads, so you should be able to drive them right in.
Those screws look very very tough. Are they reusable? At a dollar each it would be worth a look.
I'm curious; what happens to all the pins in the lock that normally stop the core turning. Why don't they prevent the core being pulled? ...and seeing how you're drilling down the keyway first to get the screw in, why don't you just drill all the pins out and turn the cylinder with a screwdriver? That's the way I first used to drill padlocks - not through the sheer-line, but through the middle of the keyway and then dump all the pins out. It was nice to see a demonstration of masterlock's inability to make an anti-drill plate.
The pins are usually made of brass, which is comparatively soft anyway, but if you put it against a quite frankly horrific amount of torque (notice how much Bill has to turn the wrench to actually get the screw to back out), then it actually shears any pins that are blocking the normal shear line.
Plus, that plate on the Master isn't an anti drill plate, it's a turn restrictor. Anti drill plates will be free spinning.
You don’t have to drill first. The screws can do that too. Look at the tip.
Yes, but some of the core crack and get jammed really hard, or the lock body also cracks.
I understand, but sometimes there isn't enough room in the lock body for the core to expand to fit the screw. If you try to do it anyway, either the screw breaks or the core is completely wedged into place and can't be extracted.
Great video. This part still has me confused, the self-tapping screws should be drilling the same diameter hole your drill is, that is the purpose of those screws. I could see concerns about expanding the core if there was nowhere for the screw's shavings to go but it should easily fit into the keyway not occupied by the screw. Was the above comment made after testing self-tapping screws (like the Vipers) or just with trying regular screws (which totally makes sense for seizing the core due to expansion).
@@falkmachtsachen i like the sparrows sets.
@@bosnianbill used exactly this tool from mp 20 years ago and there are different type of screws because of different types and wides of keyways.. if you have a wide keyway, you take the bigger screw and for small keyways the smaller screw Mostly the screw will only break if its not exactly straight screwed in. greetings from germany.
PS: You can also rip the entire eurocylinder in two pieces if you dont use the plate
I'm interested in if those screws are reuseable
With this Tool you don‘t have to drill a hole. You just drive the screw into the keyway. They also have a Torx Bit adapter where the screw can be fixed in and can‘t slip out. But drilling a hole is not the right way this tool was designed to be used.
Self drilling screws work just fine in steel but not worth a damn in softer metals like aluminum or brass. God I hate aluminum! Pre-drilling is the fastest way to get a screw in soft metal. There is no spillage in the way and heat is reduced considerably. Trust me. I have hundreds of hours doing this.
While you’re drilling why not drill the shear line?
Pulling the core basically bypasses any drill resistant inserts or pins the lock could have and just pulls them out along with the core.
OK, you get in, but is there anything salvageable about the lock bodies?
RUclips needs to get their s#!t together! Couldn't watch the LockLab's patreon supporter preview. With everything slowed down in the world because of the pandemic, you'd think RUclips would have their employees working on any glitches they can! Great video & excellent giveaway, Bill!
Those screws look very close to a masonry screw. Maybe save some money buying tapcons? Not sure about ratings on them or if they would thread ok. Just an idea
Isn't that screw supposed to be driven in directly into core, without pre-drilling? Some locks have anti-drill pins and inserts in core and body, wouldn't that be a issue to drive that screw as is with drilling? Than might be useful on euro locks or other ones where body is on bottom, so it's a bit harder to remove pins, as they don't drop out, but other than that I don't see the point bothering with drilling a hole and then inserting that screw, if you can simply drill out pins? Or did I get all that wrong and I am missing something?
Now I feel like a fool watching a thousand lock picking videos! ;)
So what was the picture item with the kit that you didn't describe or use? It looked like a large key.
Can you reuse the screws a few times?
Policeman: Sir, what are you doing there with that battery powered impact driver?
Thief: I'm just changing a tyre Sir.
Policeman: On a locked bicycle?
What do you mean? That's not suspicious at all. 😁
Behold the awesome power of the inclined plane!
These screws are like forged in fire
Where do I get one? and
It will keel
Did any of those locks have anti-drill protection features and if so why didn't they work because it looked like they're pointless how that drill went through them??
A complete fail against a simple Master Lock discus padlock - even snapping a 5.5 Viper screw.
Get an impact driver to insert the screws.
How how would you harden a lock against this type of attack?
You had so much fun doing this, I bet your inner 6 year old demanded ice cream afterwards.
Now bill has found a way to empty his nasties bucket
Couldn't you just use a bigger drill bit and just drill out the whole core?
Hey, man. Have you ever tried just, you know, *setting* something down on a table?
I wonder if this would work on locks with steel pins such as assa twin locks. maybe try it on a twin combi?
Wonder if it would work on a Viro Panzer lock; it's got a hardened steel case around the core.
Will this work on that magnet lock?
Those screws look like regular Tap Con concrete screws.
Loved the video especially when you drilled right through the other side of the fab lock
when I'm using the wrench the screw to seem to pull the core out as it's not even moving up ?
Are the screws reusable?
Does chuckless drills piss anyone else off, I have one and can never seem to tighten it well enough
I want those screws cause "none of them even bended" LMAO 😂😂😂
Company secret recipe
MultiPick could have made the face plates interface with the bell in a way to keep everything centered so you don’t have to fuss with ensuring everything is lined up.
The screw is not always dead center in the core. Plate lines up with core, bell lines up with screw.
I wonder if this would work as a safe deposit nose puller ?
These screws shear off at the head, 9 out of 10 times. They are worthless.
Fantastic tool but it'd probably cost $500 here in Australia. :/ I want that tool!!!😃✌
You really don't have to use the plate on every lock if you don't care about the finish on the lock.
BB -- I see you have been evicting locks from the Naughty Bucket
Hi bill, I was wondering, if you have to drill it anyway, do you think it’s often enough that pulling the core is either faster or necessary to open the lock as compared to just drilling the pins, sidebar, etc.
If you're drilling holes why not just drill out the pins? (Unless it's got hardened steel pins or a hardened steel protection device of some kind)
Bill, would it do the Euros that are Flush ir just recessed intobthe Handle Furniture?, ? Nice Vid , beats tge Drilling and clearingvtge pins outta the Way
We're can I get one
would the tapcons work with the smooth action of the puller? slide hammers do put a lot of shock on the fastener.
Will it pull an IC?
Those screws are masonry screws we use them to attach louvers to Bricks and other CMU type stuff
I am sure Bill drilled right through the FAB padlock : ) Then he ripped out its heart.
if you need to drill in the lock you could just as easily drill the core!
Seems like you never drilled a core. Let me share my experiences so far... Drilling or milling the core is not as fast and clean as pulling it. I did get chips and loose parts of the lock stuck in the cylinder which meant more drilling and cleaning to finally be able to unlock the door. That's probably why we (at least the firedepartment where I work) prefer to pull the entire cylinder if possible and then proceed to open the door with a cylinder cam turner. Much cleaner and faster. We're also using selfutting screws so no drilling beforehand is necessasy.
@@BuildUpAKingdom Yes, I agree. In the field of emergency entry speed and certainty are king. A locksmith can take the time to try cost saving measures, but not the EMS folks.
You seemed to enjoy doing this so much I can't but help think it was revenge for years of tricky locks.
Honestly hands down the best destructive method I've ever seen. Especially if you are under the gun for time and have to get in fast. I can definitely see why this kit will be your best friend in an emergency situation.
I sometimes use this tool with these screws of course that I bought from multipick and I do not regret it! just one thing i saw in your video which is very well done! with the screws it is not necessary to drill first because these screws are self-drilling.
That is fast, even faster if you had an impact driver for the 19mm but.
That was oddly satisfying to watch those cores come out so easily.
j'utilise parfois cet outil avec ces visses bien sûr que j'ai acheté chez multipick et je ne le regrette pas ! juste une chose que j'ai vu dans votre vidéo qui est très bien faite ! avec les visses il n'est pas utile de percer avant car ces visses sont auto-perforantes.
You could have tried drilling the various screws into steel and wrenched on them with a torque meter to see what it really takes to break one of them.
Love to win this one:)
Bosnian Bill as Vincent Price in: "The Core Body Snatchers ".
Try a car ignition lock