I think that Oliver is nearly the size of the Tannewitz we have. I suspect it’s a little newer, but just as robust. Love the video, and all your maneuverings with the crane!
There aren't many cabinet shops that have 4 table saws, let alone home woodshops. That is quite the setup you have there. Many options for dedicated setups.
Truing the flange plate... I had exactly the same issue with my old Rockwell 10" saw. I ground up a piece of tool steel to form a very sharp lathe tool, with the table removed, I mounted it from the machine base and literally turned the arbor by hand by pulling on the belts, removing the high spot while lowering the arbor with the rise and fall mechanism. It worked 45 years ago and the saw is still running true.
I came across that exact saw when I ran a shop in Kansas City back in the 80's. It was complete, fence, two miter gauges with the bracket that tied them together, the extension table, and even the manual. Built like a milling machine. Oliver was still in business in Grand Rapids at the time. I got the spec sheets from them. It could handle an 18" blade and a 4" wide dado head! I shudder to even think about that. Good to see another one!
Well done! During the whole video I was thinking: "What a strange name for a tablesaw : Paramedic. But at the end I could read the correct name Powermatic. ;-) I find it always such a relief watching your videos! Like John Cleese used to say : "And Now Something Totally Different! ". Thank you for sharing.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Hey Frank, I enjoy your videos and thought I would drop you a note regarding table saws and on/off switches. On my table saw I installed a push button switch (momentary) that was easy to find on the front of the saw that pulled in a relay to actually start the saw. A second contact on the relay held it energized. To stop the saw I put a kick plate just above the floor that was attached to the front of the saw. A normally closed switch was attached behind the kick plate, so that when the kick plate was kicked, the switch opened and dropped out the motor relay. No need to try to find the on/off switch, just kick the kick plate. I kept the regular start/stop push button for a safety shut off when the saw was not in use. Just a thought, again, always enjoy your videos.
Yes, I was thinking of making a wood piece to go over the switch with a hole in it. I could push the on button through the hole and I can hit a entire wood piece with my knee or foot to turn it off.
This guy reminds me on a sloth in every way. The way he talks, moves like everything.I mean no dissrespect to him he is an excelent creator that is why i watch his videos but everytime i see his video the sloth comes on my mind.
I have a 1955 DeWalt that looks very much like yours. Had the motor apart for cleaning. Takes forever to slow down after cutting power - adding a circuit to help with that. Good video - thanks for posting.
This was so fun to watch. Knowing the previous system pretty well from your videos, it was enjoyable to see how the new arrangement fit together. Or how you made it fit together. Just awesome.
Three integrated table saws, novel. I really enjoyed seeing the old Dewalt cut-off saw. It's been around a long time and was the workhouse in our shop back in the late 50's-60's. Yep---I'm an 'ol-timer
You can make something like levers or biger red and black buttons to switch off and on Oliver table saw. Now this don't looks safe. Great workshop and video.
Hi Frank herzlichen Glückwunsch zu deiner neuen säge. Ich glaube es ist an der Zeit das du dir eine neue Werkstatt bauen solltest, ehrlich" deine Werkstatt ist zu klein" seit 8 Jahren verfolge ich deinen Kanal, du bist der beste. Liebe Grüße aus Deutschland
In some ways, I’m glad to see that I came up with the same solution a few years ago with the arbor. I chucked up a grinding stone in my router and it helped take out the high spots (dents and impacts) fairly well. But I didn’t come up with such a thorough jig that you made. My Powermatic is also from the 60’s and it’s seen a bit of work. For me, the real fix turned out to be the coulet under the nut securing the blade to the arbor. It was smaller diameter than the one that I’d machined with the grinding wheel and in effect, it was bowing the blade when tightened down. Once I’d had a part machined that matched the arbor, the blade was straight and true. Love your videos because I enjoy seeing how a real pro engineers things.
I thoroughly enjoyed watching your thought-process and ingenuity. I have used the "raise one side of the saw (jointer, planer, etc.)" and attempt to kick a pad under the base, hoping for the best. One day when it wasn't working out too well, after a 3rd cup of coffee, I turned 2 parallel clamps heads around to make parallel spreaders. With a 1300 pound clamping spec, I figured they should be strong enough to lift one side of the saw. It worked great. With 2 "spreaders", one near each corner, they easily lifted the saw. Also, it was easy to fine tune the height. Good luck, stay safe. Thx.
Love the video’s. I could not remember if that was a saw you made a video picking it up years ago. Gives me something to watch while recovering from spine fusion
I believe the grinding stone strategy works best when you: 1) make contact between the stone and the arbor flange, and then 2) raise and lower the arbor flange with the handwheel. This ensures that you aren't just grinding in the rough profile of your stone into your flange. The raising and lowering of the flange is what makes that interface nice and flat. But glad you got something to work out anyways!
I was expecting to hear that you checked the planer and found the cut depth needed recalibration after the recent head change, but how banal! Glad to see a nice solid old machine back in active service.
3 Legendary saws. I recently was able to add a 1983 Unisaw into the shop as a complement to my SawStop. I have actually being using the Unisaw more frequently. Go figure.
great video , you probably already know bends ,elbows and flex pipe put a drag on the dust collection system, in other words a loss of suction .I notice behind the table saws in the end of the video. I have an Oneida system very good.
Hi, Frank.. I always seeing you fighting with your radial arm saw... Here is one suggestion. Make the pully from the counterweight rope bigger.. The bigger, the better. This is a lesson which i learned on my Homemade panel saw build. Greets from Germany.
He's not struggling, at least, not in the way you think. And he has the counterweight you describe. I recall Frank commenting in another video that he didn't bother with installing negative-rake blades on his radial arm saws (look it up). Without that, and by using a saw blade built for a conventional table saw (positive rake) you are fighting the radial arm saw's natural inclination to grab and accelerate through the wood--very unsafe. Essentially, the difference between have the saw above the workpiece (radial arm saw) and below the workpiece (table saw). So Frank compensates by pushing the saw as it pulls through the cut, resulting in that awkward cutting behavior. I had to do the same thing until I switched to negative-rake blades on my radial arm saw. They are expensive and can't be used on a table saw, so many radial arm saw owners don't bother.
To grind my arbor flange I did the same thing except I used a lollipop type ball stone in the router. With the router and saw running and arbor perpendicual with the table top crank the blade down just bellow the flange and bump the router over to just barely touch the stone to the grinder. Now with both router and saw running slowly crank the blade arbor up and down then bump the router over just a little bit at time and keep cranking the arbor up and down until there are no more sparks. After several passes the arbor will run true. Note: make sure the arbor bearings are good before doing this or results will be bad.
@@ericpohlman5131 The Arbor works with the Plainer to defeat the Jointer in the battle with the Lathe Master, unless the Plainer uses Magic to fool him into ...
You now need remote controlled blast gates so the dust collection is directed as needed. I saw manual blast gates but those must be quite a pain to reach.
If you raise whatever your lifting above the legs of the crane or engine hoist or whatever, you can the place some beams across the legs and lower the item onto the beams. That way your crane becomes a trolley, the item can't drop and doesn't swing around as you're moving. Once you get close, lift, take the beams out and off you go. Much easier and safer that way...
Nice work! You should look into a Burke bar, you’d be able to walk that saw right over with one and then easily change out your shims without hurting yourself.
11:05 From personal experience, I like to call that Schrodinger's tape measure. Whether the piece was cut to the correct or incorrect length is only determined after I've cut it.
When I was in the Navy working with millwrights, they only shimmed with metal. It was non-compressible and performed better than wood or plastic or other softer materials.
My first table saw required me to set the rip fence using a tape measure. After owning my Powermatic with an accurate ruler built into the fence I still feel like it is automatic. Not seeing the need to go electronic on the fence setting.
Frank, maybe some modifications can be made to your 'crane'. Would make a good video. If you make a swing arm for the hoist so you can manipulate loads inside it support footprint, you'll get more utility out of it.
I want to see more of the mechanical structure of the Rip-It. On my #72, a standard Biesemeyer fence is not stiff enough and I think we can all agree that it is a pretty stout design.
@@ADBBuild I have and it is certainly interesting. His use of a "half nut" and lead screw is pretty clever for a tablesaw fence. I will likely build something similar for my #72 sooner or later.
I never get tired of that squeaky clamp mozying across the screen in the outro I dearly hope it does not have a run-in with some WD-40 and loose it's squeeky charm.
Duuuuuuude, your masking and compositing game just took a big leap forward. with that intro. I'm an editor and VFX artist, and I think it looked great!
I love that Frank just says "Matthias" and we all know who he's talking about.
is that that dude in canada with ugly baby? i think i watched him years ago.if it's the one...
Totally agree. I instantly remembered the video 😂
The OG RUclips woodworkers.
@@filmer197 ugly baby?
Who is he talking about ?
You're so sensible and methodical Frank ,a pleasure to watch .
I have always liked Frank's giant table of table saws in the center of the workshop, looks awesome and must be nice to have so many options :)
Three table saws. Two Franks. Two videos in one. I think that equals a great woodworker/RUclipsr!❤
"Don't have to be perfect" famous words coming from a man who's eye for detail is fantastic! :)
The trick is knowing where to put the imperfection.
I look forward to the day when you finally complete the setup by getting a fourth table saw and replacing the last remaining plywood extension table!
I think that Oliver is nearly the size of the Tannewitz we have. I suspect it’s a little newer, but just as robust. Love the video, and all your maneuverings with the crane!
There aren't many cabinet shops that have 4 table saws, let alone home woodshops. That is quite the setup you have there. Many options for dedicated setups.
Truing the flange plate... I had exactly the same issue with my old Rockwell 10" saw. I ground up a piece of tool steel to form a very sharp lathe tool, with the table removed, I mounted it from the machine base and literally turned the arbor by hand by pulling on the belts, removing the high spot while lowering the arbor with the rise and fall mechanism. It worked 45 years ago and the saw is still running true.
I came across that exact saw when I ran a shop in Kansas City back in the 80's. It was complete, fence, two miter gauges with the bracket that tied them together, the extension table, and even the manual. Built like a milling machine. Oliver was still in business in Grand Rapids at the time. I got the spec sheets from them. It could handle an 18" blade and a 4" wide dado head! I shudder to even think about that. Good to see another one!
I have to always remember to put on a bib to catch my drool when I see Franks workshop !!
Well done! During the whole video I was thinking: "What a strange name for a tablesaw : Paramedic. But at the end I could read the correct name Powermatic. ;-) I find it always such a relief watching your videos! Like John Cleese used to say : "And Now Something Totally Different! ". Thank you for sharing.
With the advent of the Saw Stop table saw ,paramedic might be a great name.😊
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Hey Frank, I enjoy your videos and thought I would drop you a note regarding table saws and on/off switches. On my table saw I installed a push button switch (momentary) that was easy to find on the front of the saw that pulled in a relay to actually start the saw. A second contact on the relay held it energized. To stop the saw I put a kick plate just above the floor that was attached to the front of the saw. A normally closed switch was attached behind the kick plate, so that when the kick plate was kicked, the switch opened and dropped out the motor relay. No need to try to find the on/off switch, just kick the kick plate. I kept the regular start/stop push button for a safety shut off when the saw was not in use. Just a thought, again, always enjoy your videos.
Yes, I was thinking of making a wood piece to go over the switch with a hole in it. I could push the on button through the hole and I can hit a entire wood piece with my knee or foot to turn it off.
This guy reminds me on a sloth in every way. The way he talks, moves like everything.I mean no dissrespect to him he is an excelent creator that is why i watch his videos but everytime i see his video the sloth comes on my mind.
I have a 1955 DeWalt that looks very much like yours. Had the motor apart for cleaning. Takes forever to slow down after cutting power - adding a circuit to help with that. Good video - thanks for posting.
This was so fun to watch. Knowing the previous system pretty well from your videos, it was enjoyable to see how the new arrangement fit together. Or how you made it fit together. Just awesome.
Oh, wow! The project screen is back! And TWO Franks! I love these vids. So much fun to watch.
I was thinking of watching a murder mystery on tv, but I couldn't tear myself away from this with all the special effects. 😮
Dedicated rip and cross cut saws, what a luxury.
A scene shop I used to work at had an Oliver 270 from the mid 60's and what a pleasure it was to use. The cast base just soaked up vibrations.
Three integrated table saws, novel. I really enjoyed seeing the old Dewalt cut-off saw. It's been around a long time and was the workhouse in our shop back in the late 50's-60's. Yep---I'm an 'ol-timer
You did a fine job with that arbor. 👍
Best wishes from Poland,👋
Neat project. Your new setup is definitely improved.
Frank, you should do audio books. Your voice is the butter on the biscuit. Good stuff.
Wow, thanks!
I love these videos with both Frank and Hank Howarth!
Hi Alan 👋
You can make something like levers or biger red and black buttons to switch off and on Oliver table saw. Now this don't looks safe.
Great workshop and video.
Pretty nice work, Frank! The shop is looking much better now! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I just love how you can see the editing getting better and better every video. Keep at it, Frank! Much love
Worked out great, Frank. Getting the best shop layout is one of the hardest things and never ending.
Bill
So nice to see the two Franks work peacefully together, maybee third Frank behind camera today...?! Very nice job, Franks..! 🤗
It's very satisfying to reorganise to better suit needs! Great video too, enjoyed it hugely thank you... your twin's looking well ;)
Thank you! 😊
Your shop is so lovely. It makes all your videos so pleasant to watch
Always loved the quality of your videos.
Must be a huge help having yourself around the shop, I knew it was just a matter of time before Frank figured out how to clone himself.
Outstanding sir, outstanding!
So nice sir
Thanks Frank. I recently built my tomato cages from your videos. And I plan on putting some sauce away this year. 👍
Fantastic! A few of the ones I built have come apart but most of them are still working great.
as always, thanks for taking us on your journey, Frank(s)!
Best shop on RUclips.
Thanks you for your teaching videos!
Hi Frank herzlichen Glückwunsch zu deiner neuen säge. Ich glaube es ist an der Zeit das du dir eine neue Werkstatt bauen solltest, ehrlich" deine Werkstatt ist zu klein" seit 8 Jahren verfolge ich deinen Kanal, du bist der beste. Liebe Grüße aus Deutschland
Three table saws is every woodworkers dream. Great video,fun to watch (as usual). Thank you Frank!
In some ways, I’m glad to see that I came up with the same solution a few years ago with the arbor. I chucked up a grinding stone in my router and it helped take out the high spots (dents and impacts) fairly well. But I didn’t come up with such a thorough jig that you made. My Powermatic is also from the 60’s and it’s seen a bit of work. For me, the real fix turned out to be the coulet under the nut securing the blade to the arbor. It was smaller diameter than the one that I’d machined with the grinding wheel and in effect, it was bowing the blade when tightened down. Once I’d had a part machined that matched the arbor, the blade was straight and true. Love your videos because I enjoy seeing how a real pro engineers things.
I thoroughly enjoyed watching your thought-process and ingenuity. I have used the "raise one side of the saw (jointer, planer, etc.)" and attempt to kick a pad under the base, hoping for the best. One day when it wasn't working out too well, after a 3rd cup of coffee, I turned 2 parallel clamps heads around to make parallel spreaders. With a 1300 pound clamping spec, I figured they should be strong enough to lift one side of the saw. It worked great. With 2 "spreaders", one near each corner, they easily lifted the saw. Also, it was easy to fine tune the height. Good luck, stay safe. Thx.
Very informative video of your project. Such an impressive shop and yet you always seem to find something that makes it even better.
Excellent travail ! bravo !
All this work. Must be a big project coming up. Hopefully !!!!
That Oliver saw is a beast. It absolutely dwarfs the Powermatic 66. Nice compact setup with the three saws now. Thanks for sharing!
Love the video’s. I could not remember if that was a saw you made a video picking it up years ago. Gives me something to watch while recovering from spine fusion
I don't think I've ever made a video about that saw. I made one about picking up my planer.
Great video!
We are tiny, reflects the heart every vision and each piece is unwilling.
I'm having trouble setting up one cabinet saw in my shop. I cannot imagine trying to set up three.🙂🙂
I believe the grinding stone strategy works best when you: 1) make contact between the stone and the arbor flange, and then 2) raise and lower the arbor flange with the handwheel. This ensures that you aren't just grinding in the rough profile of your stone into your flange. The raising and lowering of the flange is what makes that interface nice and flat. But glad you got something to work out anyways!
This tuto is very well sir
You are so amazing
Beautiful works of art, as always
Good job!
What a great setup. Nice work as always Frank.
LinkHart 👋
Just yesterday, I checked to see if Frank posted a new video in case I missed a notification. 😀👍
Looks good brother..
Love your editing skills
I was expecting to hear that you checked the planer and found the cut depth needed recalibration after the recent head change, but how banal! Glad to see a nice solid old machine back in active service.
I like your angle cutting mitre box for the sawsall trick. We tune in because you’re a leader not a follower. Cheers
facinating!
The disappearing 1/8" had me dying.
Yeah, very relatable for me.
Another awesome video!! Thank you!!
3 Legendary saws. I recently was able to add a 1983 Unisaw into the shop as a complement to my SawStop. I have actually being using the Unisaw more frequently. Go figure.
Yeah I know how that goes. I got the 66 new and it was nice. Then a few years later I got the old used 72 and I find I use that more than the 66.
great video , you probably already know bends ,elbows and flex pipe put a drag on the dust collection system, in other words a loss of suction .I notice behind the table saws in the end of the video. I have an Oneida system very good.
Hi, Frank.. I always seeing you fighting with your radial arm saw... Here is one suggestion. Make the pully from the counterweight rope bigger.. The bigger, the better. This is a lesson which i learned on my Homemade panel saw build. Greets from Germany.
He's not struggling, at least, not in the way you think. And he has the counterweight you describe. I recall Frank commenting in another video that he didn't bother with installing negative-rake blades on his radial arm saws (look it up). Without that, and by using a saw blade built for a conventional table saw (positive rake) you are fighting the radial arm saw's natural inclination to grab and accelerate through the wood--very unsafe. Essentially, the difference between have the saw above the workpiece (radial arm saw) and below the workpiece (table saw).
So Frank compensates by pushing the saw as it pulls through the cut, resulting in that awkward cutting behavior. I had to do the same thing until I switched to negative-rake blades on my radial arm saw. They are expensive and can't be used on a table saw, so many radial arm saw owners don't bother.
Great to have a helper sometimes!
Ahh the joys of working alone. 😂😂
These little things that would take one fifth the time with one other person.
To grind my arbor flange I did the same thing except I used a lollipop type ball stone in the router.
With the router and saw running and arbor perpendicual with the table top crank the blade down
just bellow the flange and bump the router over to just barely touch the stone to the grinder.
Now with both router and saw running slowly crank the blade arbor up and down then bump the
router over just a little bit at time and keep cranking the arbor up and down until there are no more sparks.
After several passes the arbor will run true.
Note: make sure the arbor bearings are good before doing this or results will be bad.
Is the Arbor the Plainer?
@@ericpohlman5131 The Arbor works with the Plainer to defeat the Jointer in the battle with the Lathe Master, unless the Plainer uses Magic to fool him into ...
Definitely need an in depth video about the Rip-it
I’m glad I’m not the only one playing games with disappearing/reappearing 1/8” height differences on heavy equipment
Belle ingéniosité bravo 😊
So cool! We had a huge Oliver jointer at school and I loved that machine. Wonder if RIT still has it…
I want one of those.
Amazing!
You now need remote controlled blast gates so the dust collection is directed as needed. I saw manual blast gates but those must be quite a pain to reach.
Amazing those saws dont have leveling feet in the corners? Thanks for sharing. Charles
If you raise whatever your lifting above the legs of the crane or engine hoist or whatever, you can the place some beams across the legs and lower the item onto the beams. That way your crane becomes a trolley, the item can't drop and doesn't swing around as you're moving. Once you get close, lift, take the beams out and off you go. Much easier and safer that way...
I hadn't thought about that. Basically making the crane into a cart. I like it
@@frankmakes otherwise you're just swinging a pendulum. That hasn't been a thing since the Renaissance 😄
Frank, its ok to say it. We all know this move was to be able to play with the new fancy electronic fence xD
Enjoyed!
Just noticed it’s about ten years since the shop tour that helped me find your channel. Time for another general tour?
I've been thinking about that.
Would love to see a video about the in-floor dust collection
Good to see your identical twin brother helping out. Trouble Is, it's hard to discern who is who of the two...
This reminded me of Dwight from the Office making his megadesk. 'Getting more megasaw'.
Very cool.
Nice work! You should look into a Burke bar, you’d be able to walk that saw right over with one and then easily change out your shims without hurting yourself.
That would be handy, but $200+ ain't cheap. But you'd likely find plenty of uses for it.
11:05 From personal experience, I like to call that Schrodinger's tape measure. Whether the piece was cut to the correct or incorrect length is only determined after I've cut it.
When I was in the Navy working with millwrights, they only shimmed with metal. It was non-compressible and performed better than wood or plastic or other softer materials.
My first table saw required me to set the rip fence using a tape measure. After owning my Powermatic with an accurate ruler built into the fence I still feel like it is automatic. Not seeing the need to go electronic on the fence setting.
Frank, maybe some modifications can be made to your 'crane'. Would make a good video. If you make a swing arm for the hoist so you can manipulate loads inside it support footprint, you'll get more utility out of it.
At 07:17 you mention a scale. Link? Love your pace of work.
Hey. Is there a reason you use the fence in the left side? Or just preference?
I want to see more of the mechanical structure of the Rip-It. On my #72, a standard Biesemeyer fence is not stiff enough and I think we can all agree that it is a pretty stout design.
Have you seen Jer Schmidt's fence design? It's one of the best IMO. He is on RUclips.
@@ADBBuild I have and it is certainly interesting. His use of a "half nut" and lead screw is pretty clever for a tablesaw fence. I will likely build something similar for my #72 sooner or later.
I never get tired of that squeaky clamp mozying across the screen in the outro I dearly hope it does not have a run-in with some WD-40 and loose it's squeeky charm.
why do you need so many tablesaws? i can understand the need for different types of saw, but multiple saws of the same type?
Frank loves collecting old or vintage saws. Plus, I think it is more of a work surface as well.
One for ripping, one for crosscuts, one for dados
Lol I'm pretty sure he uses his multiple radial arm saws for most cross cuts but I get what you're saying
Duuuuuuude, your masking and compositing game just took a big leap forward. with that intro. I'm an editor and VFX artist, and I think it looked great!
Great setup. Does dust collection on these saws work very well?
Need to find a 4th saw and put them in a pinwheel configuration.