I could see "our table isn't big enough" as a good excuse not to invite someone, but inviting too many people as an excuse to build a table... that's a new one.
I think if you had gone with two pieces for the legs it would've been less wobbly, but it almost certainly would've been a lot harder to get the top on, so it's a tradeoff. For an extra table that only comes out for special occasions I think you made the right choice.
I think that center joint for the legs could be reinforced and get some of the wiggle out without reworking anything. Probably with the scrap you have. Two square, round, whatever pieces of the slab and route out the the geometry of the joint in each piece. A top and bottom. Tight tolerance to the crossmembers, a little bit of press fit. Carriage bolt in each quadrant between the leg crossmembers. Probably doesn't have to be much bigger than the leg center joint cut outs but the deeper the engagement the stiffer it will be.
That turned out beautiful, but I have to admit, when you floated the idea of filling the gaps in the waste piece with resin and using that as the top, my mind was blown. That is a fantastic idea, and you have to do something like that in the future. I love that it's a knock-down table as well. I love attractive and convenient furniture -- Matthias Wandel's knock-down desks are my other YT furniture design favorite.
Frank Happy holidays- how you integrate that incredible technological machine is what makes it special. You don't lean on it. You use it as another creative tool, woven with your wonderful mind.
of all the woodworkers on RUclips I think you maybe the only one who shows himself on camera still using his CNC machine making stuff. Most just use it has a background prop which I find is sad at times because from what you do with it makes me want to use one if i had the space and money to get one
Cool project... the smoothing on the underside, in triangle sections, that'll come in handy for so many projects. All the family... that#s the very best part though, isn't it? :-)
With that much sawdust left on the cnc I use a big dustpan and brush to get the majority into a bin and then the dust extractor for the remainder. Saves me emptying the vac system so often.
Really beautiful table, Frank! Amazing work!!! 😃 About the wobble, put some shims in the open parts between the arms. 😉 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I always use the more scotch-brite side of a regular blue dishwashing sponge to "sand" after putting on shellac - game changer. None of the steel wool dust, and you can't overdo it like with sandpaper.
Shellac clogs sand paper so quickly I searched for an alternative. Had no scotch bright handy and used the abrasive side of a dish washing sponge....can confirm it worked great!
My first time here. I gotta say, that's some boss editing. I love your fresh thinking too. I hear a lot of furniture makers say "Hold downs" or "Hold fasts" for what we shop guys called "Dogs" or "bench dogs".
Great video Frank. Maybe to fix the wiggling issue you could make a couple of wedges to take up the gaps between the arms, that just slot in and be easily removed if you need to move the table? Also you mentioned the issues you had getting the tabletop smooth, I've noticed you never show yourself 'raising the grain' is this something you do when sanding? I've found it makes a huge difference and I generally get a better surface sanding to 180 when I do compared to 400 or even 600 when I dont. If you haven't heard of it, basically after your final sanding pass you wet the surface with water (damp cloth) which causes the timber to swell slightly and the grain pushes up creating a rougher surface, you the let it dry and sand with the finish grit again just enough to take off the raised grain. If you don't do it, the grain can raise anyway when you apply the finish as this is in effect wetting the timber. Which can cause a rough surface regardless of how smooth you got it to begin with.
11:40 The largest the ball mill, the better the finish, regardless of the step over or cut depth. This is because the larger mill has a flatter bottom, it is "less round", so the "waves" are mellower.
Usually when you find out you will have more guests than anticipated, you only have to prepare more food. I can’t imagine having to also construct more furniture. The extension table is beautiful-glad you kept the cats.
It makes complete sense to use a tablecloth, but it's sad to cover up the gorgeous wood! Also, the ceiling lights continue to look incredible; it's cool to see them in situ like that at the end!
A pleasure to watch, as usual. I was not that sure about glueing the slabs on the CNC table without protecting it with paper/plastic/whatever, but it seems it came out OK. On the other hand, I think I would somehow use something to make legs and top "one piece" so you can lift the table when you want to move it just a little (like in the video towards the end), I'm not sure what I would use, probably some screws and not glue so I could take it apart when needed. And finally, I think I would make some kind of "XXL shims" to put around where the bolt joins the four legs together. I think that's one reason for the table to wiggle and I think using four triangular shaped pieces around (maybe two could be enough on opposite sides to one another) would strenghen that "joint". However, me being me, I would use some bended metal plates and screw them or, even better, use some bolts (a couple for each leg) to join them. But, hey, these are easy things for one to say in front of a screen instead of in the shop. Thank you!
There was a gap where all 4 legs came together, wondering if a wedge tapped into place there would help lock up the table a little and get rid of some of the wiggle.
Nice design. Kind of a flat pack table. Do the legs and arms fit in the recess in the bottom of the top? If they do you could devise a way to secure them in the recess to help with storage when not in use. Yes, two arms crossing in the middle would have worked and might limit the wiggle but the four arms work. Thanks for the video.
Great video as always Frank. Have you thought of using some type of toggle latches on the underside of the two tables to "leverage" some of the stability of the larger table? If the hook ends were on the larger table it wouldn't be overly intrusive and have the latch ends on the smaller table. Keep up the great work! 😁👌
I actually did. But I never got to it before Thanksgiving. At some point I would like to do exactly that. It would also mean no one really sits at the seam because it goes away.
In a world seeming driven by fast talking and hyperactivity your laidback but tenacious style is a refreshing and enjoyable break from the norm. You clearly are quite skilled and knowledgeable. New subscriber getting caught up on your old videos...dream shop fully equipped. Videos are extremely well done and varied.
I am ecstatic when you release a new video. I love your editing. It cracks me up every time when you place something down. Thank you. Happy Thanksgiving!
future note: Shellack is not the most durable finish. if you like the hand rubbed feel / look of shellack I would go for a wipe on Poly. upside is it's easy / downside is the coats take longer to dry, but the durability of the finish is much better. beautiful table though
Thanks for the video. Allow me to offer some advice from a tall man. We don't like sitting like proper ladies in little triangle spaces, especially under square tables with solid, shin-busting-height table supports. Just some advice for future designs.
18:19 while that's a good idea, it's kind of a bit of waste of time (time working). The reason you get those steps is because you have the wrong "resolution" on the finishing pass. You need to give it more (beans) resolution. And by that i mean that the shape that's described needs to have more lines to define the pass. Bit geometry counts as well, of course, but the more lines the motion has, the more accurate and clean the result. Kinda like printing a circle. The reason it's imprecise is because the 3D programs approximate a polygon, not a circle and nobody adds those lines in, not even the slicer (in fact, some poorly optimized slicers remove lines). Source: in my line of work, we use basically the same machine, but bigger, to make Styrofoam moldings after 3D renders, scans or photogrametric models to reconstruct structure elements that are too damaged to be repaired, either as plugs for the damaged sections or entire pieces to swap against the real part. And this issue was really annoying on a shape with multiple deformations on a pass, as you can imagine. Increase your resolution in your 3D program of choice and it will spit out better results. For bits, you should use an oval end (and the program needs to know what and how it's shaped - if you can't find exact specs (tho they should be on the manufacturer's page) you can always take a piece of wood, and have the bit cut its own profile, which you can then scan with a ruler to determine exact size and profile). Oval shape mills reach far more geometry than lens or ball end mills. You can basically cut two thirds of a sphere inside a wooden block with this type of a mill (when it's long shanked). I'd recommend a name, but YT's iffy about these kinds of things. Plus it's pretty expensive, so you're better off finding the best priced one for your application (for example a router bit with the same geometry of which there are a few online). Just my 2 cents, i see this issue pop out quite a bit, i've been there myself, i know the hair pulling phase, felt i should share.
Hi Frank, I built a table with a very similar cross frame design, it was half lapped at the intersection and had bridle joints at the legs so should have been very stiff but it also still wobbled. I think there's just so much leverage from the centre to outside that it's almost impossible to prevent wobbling due to the nature of the material. The only way I found to do it was to add some cross bracing in the frame, it interrupts the design intent but certainly stiffened it right up.
Excellent work, Frank! The wobble is unfortunate, but I imagine the 4 part legs are easier to assemble (due to the give helping w hole alignment) and for storage. A question: at 24:24, there appears to be a sort of cutout in the smooth bevel. What is that?
@cerberus2881 I hear you. It looks centered and intentional, though. Plus Frank usually shares his mistakes, when they happen. Maybe it connects it to the second table?
Ha ha. On the very last cut on the CNC machine, the cut to free the peace from the bigger slab. I forgot that I had the cut starting lower in the slab and when I went to start the machine it moved the bit over to where it was going to start cutting the perimeter of the table and it hit the bulge in the table and left that little cut out. So the one mistake I made was on the very last run on the machine. I forgot to talk about it in the narration. Good eye.
@@frankmakes oh man, that must have been so frustrating! When I watch all of your CNC work, I often think about the trade-off between its precision and ability to sculpt vs an error like this. I think I would be too scared to press the “go” button most of the time. Thank you for replying!
The caption on screen at 5:12 is a little confusing, 1 ten thousandth of an inch = 0.0001". Also (0.010") = 1 hundreth of an inch. 10 ten thousandths or 1 thousandth = 0.0010.
I looked up on the Google how it was supposed to be written and that's what it gave me. I think. Also I was talking about it being 6 or 7 one thousandths of an inch and it was actually 10 one thousandths of an inch. So the unit is the same.
The blue oxidises the bolt. You should soak in oil after. Many interesting ways to blue. Using heat and or chemicals See My Mechanics, or Backyard Ballistics, or Clickspring for various guides.
Anyone else would just dig out a folding card table to fit the extra guest but not Frank, he builds a whole new table. Love it. ;-)
The card table is what we had been doing. This year I had to get inspired and make a second table.
Anyone else isn't working full-time in the content mines😂
The tables are too beautiful to cover with table cloths...I suggest placemats next year.
I could see "our table isn't big enough" as a good excuse not to invite someone,
but inviting too many people as an excuse to build a table... that's a new one.
😂😂😂
Wow, I’ve been watching this channel for 10 years 😳
I had the same realization. 😯
Me too! 🎉
You, fine sir, are nothing short of a genius and your videography skills are some of the best on RUclips,
He went Harvard and is an architect
I can't believe how enormous the growth rings are on that sequoia.
We figured that huge tree was only 35 years old. Just a baby
I hope this doesn’t sound like an insult but you look like exactly the same than 10 years ago that’s cool
Bravoooo maestro Frank fantastčno odradjen posao.Veliki pozdrav od vjernog pratioca Mileta iz Bosne odnosno iz grada Zvornika🙋🙋🙌🙌🙌🙌👍👍👍👍.
A cutout table would be exciting!
Man that was FIVE years ago? Lovely job Frank x
Man not only do you need to go through the trouble of making a meal for a bunch of people, but also making a table for them to sit
Would love to have something like that, with similar legs but the big boss wants a glass top.
I think if you had gone with two pieces for the legs it would've been less wobbly, but it almost certainly would've been a lot harder to get the top on, so it's a tradeoff. For an extra table that only comes out for special occasions I think you made the right choice.
I had not thought about that. I think you're right. Getting the pegs to line up with the holes would have been very difficult.
a subscriber just shared with me your channel. WOW amazing videography and editing truly in awe!!!
An overhead crane would have been a great investment.
2:25 I didn't expect that fast-motion leg jacking to make me giggle so much.
I thought that was funny too.
18:30 is just genius! Amazing!
this man's editing skills are just insane!
I think that center joint for the legs could be reinforced and get some of the wiggle out without reworking anything. Probably with the scrap you have. Two square, round, whatever pieces of the slab and route out the the geometry of the joint in each piece. A top and bottom. Tight tolerance to the crossmembers, a little bit of press fit. Carriage bolt in each quadrant between the leg crossmembers. Probably doesn't have to be much bigger than the leg center joint cut outs but the deeper the engagement the stiffer it will be.
That turned out beautiful, but I have to admit, when you floated the idea of filling the gaps in the waste piece with resin and using that as the top, my mind was blown. That is a fantastic idea, and you have to do something like that in the future.
I love that it's a knock-down table as well. I love attractive and convenient furniture -- Matthias Wandel's knock-down desks are my other YT furniture design favorite.
Frank Happy holidays- how you integrate that incredible technological machine is what makes it special. You don't lean on it. You use it as another creative tool, woven with your wonderful mind.
of all the woodworkers on RUclips I think you maybe the only one who shows himself on camera still using his CNC machine making stuff. Most just use it has a background prop which I find is sad at times because from what you do with it makes me want to use one if i had the space and money to get one
Thanks for updating this
Cool project... the smoothing on the underside, in triangle sections, that'll come in handy for so many projects.
All the family... that#s the very best part though, isn't it? :-)
The table is amazing, but the Jaws meme was FIRE! 🤣
Slick graphics and editing!
300 in/min ?! That’s wild.
wow, that shot of the face of the moon: Tee Riffick! Thanks again for some top notch film making.
Thanks! I've been slowly working on a moon project. I wanted to use some of the footage I've been gathering.
Christmas moon ornament?
CNC'ing some moon craters would be beaut!@@LostWhits
That shark showing up for Thanksgiving!
The old table is still my favourite of all projects on this channel
Lovely table. [you are really squeezing every last bit of capability out of that CNC table! Ingenious method you used for the underside of the table]
With that much sawdust left on the cnc I use a big dustpan and brush to get the majority into a bin and then the dust extractor for the remainder. Saves me emptying the vac system so often.
True
Seeing the table cloth on it for thanksgiving made me laugh.
Hey! Let's just cover up this project I just spent two weeks on .haha
On this Thanksgiving weekend, I’m grateful for people like you, Frank. You bring us joy and inspiration.
Love how you accurately overlay your footage with graphics/still images!
You are something else when you make it, it’s unique and beautiful. Nothing like it
Really beautiful table, Frank! Amazing work!!! 😃
About the wobble, put some shims in the open parts between the arms. 😉
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
On Jaws they don't say "we're gonna need a bigger boat" they "you're gonna need a bigger boat". Therefore, you're gonna need a bigger table, Frank.
Muy bonita la mesa bonito proyecto los saludos desde Guatemala Saludos a su familia❤
I always use the more scotch-brite side of a regular blue dishwashing sponge to "sand" after putting on shellac - game changer. None of the steel wool dust, and you can't overdo it like with sandpaper.
I will have to try that. Thanks!
Shellac clogs sand paper so quickly I searched for an alternative. Had no scotch bright handy and used the abrasive side of a dish washing sponge....can confirm it worked great!
My first time here. I gotta say, that's some boss editing. I love your fresh thinking too. I hear a lot of furniture makers say "Hold downs" or "Hold fasts" for what we shop guys called "Dogs" or "bench dogs".
That sequoia tree has turned into some of my favorite projects of yours 🍻 excellent work as always frank
Both lawn chairs and the door to our pantry is from that same tree.
Very nicely done sir, great job!
One of the best channels on RUclips. Thank you, yet again, for another amazing video 😊
Great video Frank. Maybe to fix the wiggling issue you could make a couple of wedges to take up the gaps between the arms, that just slot in and be easily removed if you need to move the table?
Also you mentioned the issues you had getting the tabletop smooth, I've noticed you never show yourself 'raising the grain' is this something you do when sanding? I've found it makes a huge difference and I generally get a better surface sanding to 180 when I do compared to 400 or even 600 when I dont.
If you haven't heard of it, basically after your final sanding pass you wet the surface with water (damp cloth) which causes the timber to swell slightly and the grain pushes up creating a rougher surface, you the let it dry and sand with the finish grit again just enough to take off the raised grain.
If you don't do it, the grain can raise anyway when you apply the finish as this is in effect wetting the timber. Which can cause a rough surface regardless of how smooth you got it to begin with.
I saw this elsewhere recently. I think I may have to try raising the grain on something.
Perhaps a hidden turnbuckle could pull the two table’s legs together and provide some tension.
I didn’t know you had a twin. Great to see you working together.
11:40 The largest the ball mill, the better the finish, regardless of the step over or cut depth. This is because the larger mill has a flatter bottom, it is "less round", so the "waves" are mellower.
Super late to the party, but nice buffer... looks really familiar for some reason. :)
As always, very nice!
Usually when you find out you will have more guests than anticipated, you only have to prepare more food. I can’t imagine having to also construct more furniture. The extension table is beautiful-glad you kept the cats.
I had to make most of the food too. lol
It makes complete sense to use a tablecloth, but it's sad to cover up the gorgeous wood! Also, the ceiling lights continue to look incredible; it's cool to see them in situ like that at the end!
👍
I really appreciate your use of the on-screen graphics. Thank you for another great project.
I hope they are understandable. Sometimes they get a little out of control.
Very best table for the big Family ! 😊
Merry Christmas! Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
A pleasure to watch, as usual. I was not that sure about glueing the slabs on the CNC table without protecting it with paper/plastic/whatever, but it seems it came out OK.
On the other hand, I think I would somehow use something to make legs and top "one piece" so you can lift the table when you want to move it just a little (like in the video towards the end), I'm not sure what I would use, probably some screws and not glue so I could take it apart when needed.
And finally, I think I would make some kind of "XXL shims" to put around where the bolt joins the four legs together. I think that's one reason for the table to wiggle and I think using four triangular shaped pieces around (maybe two could be enough on opposite sides to one another) would strenghen that "joint". However, me being me, I would use some bended metal plates and screw them or, even better, use some bolts (a couple for each leg) to join them.
But, hey, these are easy things for one to say in front of a screen instead of in the shop.
Thank you!
Happy Holidays to you too!
Happy holidays, Frank!
Is that your own moon photography?! So cool!
Yes
There was a gap where all 4 legs came together, wondering if a wedge tapped into place there would help lock up the table a little and get rid of some of the wiggle.
Looks great. I suggest that you add some latches to the bottom surfaces of the table tops to draw them together.
Nice design. Kind of a flat pack table. Do the legs and arms fit in the recess in the bottom of the top? If they do you could devise a way to secure them in the recess to help with storage when not in use. Yes, two arms crossing in the middle would have worked and might limit the wiggle but the four arms work. Thanks for the video.
Beautiful
Frank,
You may have invented a new process. Patent it.
Great table, Frank. I hope all of you had a great day, too.
Bill
Great video as always Frank. Have you thought of using some type of toggle latches on the underside of the two tables to "leverage" some of the stability of the larger table? If the hook ends were on the larger table it wouldn't be overly intrusive and have the latch ends on the smaller table. Keep up the great work! 😁👌
I actually did. But I never got to it before Thanksgiving. At some point I would like to do exactly that. It would also mean no one really sits at the seam because it goes away.
In a world seeming driven by fast talking and hyperactivity your laidback but tenacious style is a refreshing and enjoyable break from the norm. You clearly are quite skilled and knowledgeable. New subscriber getting caught up on your old videos...dream shop fully equipped. Videos are extremely well done and varied.
Beautiful and neat work
Great work.
Good to see you Frank.
Good Morning Frank and all. Thanks for the awesome builds.
Nice
Very beautiful table.Would the table edges be better rounded over with a router bit ?
"not the strongest wood in the tree". great euphemism :)
Excellent as always.
Beautiful work. Always a pleasure to watch each new project.
I am ecstatic when you release a new video. I love your editing. It cracks me up every time when you place something down. Thank you. Happy Thanksgiving!
Beautiful family and great work Frank! Thanks for sharing.
future note: Shellack is not the most durable finish. if you like the hand rubbed feel / look of shellack I would go for a wipe on Poly. upside is it's easy / downside is the coats take longer to dry, but the durability of the finish is much better.
beautiful table though
Thanks for the video. Allow me to offer some advice from a tall man. We don't like sitting like proper ladies in little triangle spaces, especially under square tables with solid, shin-busting-height table supports. Just some advice for future designs.
Won't somebody please consider the plight of the tall
Brass latches to connect both tables.
Thanks Frank. Loved the carved underside. Happy Holidays!
Most people: "Oh, I'll have to get a bigger turkey"
Frank: "Wellp, time to build a whole-ass new table"
18:19 while that's a good idea, it's kind of a bit of waste of time (time working). The reason you get those steps is because you have the wrong "resolution" on the finishing pass. You need to give it more (beans) resolution. And by that i mean that the shape that's described needs to have more lines to define the pass. Bit geometry counts as well, of course, but the more lines the motion has, the more accurate and clean the result. Kinda like printing a circle. The reason it's imprecise is because the 3D programs approximate a polygon, not a circle and nobody adds those lines in, not even the slicer (in fact, some poorly optimized slicers remove lines).
Source: in my line of work, we use basically the same machine, but bigger, to make Styrofoam moldings after 3D renders, scans or photogrametric models to reconstruct structure elements that are too damaged to be repaired, either as plugs for the damaged sections or entire pieces to swap against the real part. And this issue was really annoying on a shape with multiple deformations on a pass, as you can imagine.
Increase your resolution in your 3D program of choice and it will spit out better results. For bits, you should use an oval end (and the program needs to know what and how it's shaped - if you can't find exact specs (tho they should be on the manufacturer's page) you can always take a piece of wood, and have the bit cut its own profile, which you can then scan with a ruler to determine exact size and profile).
Oval shape mills reach far more geometry than lens or ball end mills. You can basically cut two thirds of a sphere inside a wooden block with this type of a mill (when it's long shanked). I'd recommend a name, but YT's iffy about these kinds of things. Plus it's pretty expensive, so you're better off finding the best priced one for your application (for example a router bit with the same geometry of which there are a few online).
Just my 2 cents, i see this issue pop out quite a bit, i've been there myself, i know the hair pulling phase, felt i should share.
Hi Frank, I built a table with a very similar cross frame design, it was half lapped at the intersection and had bridle joints at the legs so should have been very stiff but it also still wobbled. I think there's just so much leverage from the centre to outside that it's almost impossible to prevent wobbling due to the nature of the material. The only way I found to do it was to add some cross bracing in the frame, it interrupts the design intent but certainly stiffened it right up.
Yes, I was thinking it needs some triangles in plan view (cross bracing) to take up the wobble.
Always enjoy your projects. Happy holidays.
Amazing as usual, happy holidays to you and yours Frank!
Another awesome video!! Thank you!!
I wonder if Matt Cremona is watching this and having a nervous breakdown at your casual dissection of a slab! lol
Frank thinks, nah, a folding table will not do 😂. Great video as always!
Excellent work, Frank! The wobble is unfortunate, but I imagine the 4 part legs are easier to assemble (due to the give helping w hole alignment) and for storage.
A question: at 24:24, there appears to be a sort of cutout in the smooth bevel. What is that?
@cerberus2881 I’m pretty sure his hold downs were outside of his final cut on the cnc
@cerberus2881 I hear you. It looks centered and intentional, though. Plus Frank usually shares his mistakes, when they happen. Maybe it connects it to the second table?
Ha ha. On the very last cut on the CNC machine, the cut to free the peace from the bigger slab. I forgot that I had the cut starting lower in the slab and when I went to start the machine it moved the bit over to where it was going to start cutting the perimeter of the table and it hit the bulge in the table and left that little cut out. So the one mistake I made was on the very last run on the machine. I forgot to talk about it in the narration. Good eye.
@@frankmakes oh man, that must have been so frustrating! When I watch all of your CNC work, I often think about the trade-off between its precision and ability to sculpt vs an error like this. I think I would be too scared to press the “go” button most of the time.
Thank you for replying!
Should have put removable drop leaves on either end of the big table.
Well where's the fun in that? 😉
Brass door and the features you left would be great for shelves.
Beautiful work. The table is gorgeous 😊😊
Brilliant, as always. 💙
Some wooden chairs would go nice with those tables.
Happy holidays, and thanks for another inspiring build video!
As usual, fantastic build Frank! Happy Holidays to you & your family! 👍👍🦃🦃🌲🌲
The caption on screen at 5:12 is a little confusing, 1 ten thousandth of an inch = 0.0001". Also (0.010") = 1 hundreth of an inch. 10 ten thousandths or 1 thousandth = 0.0010.
I looked up on the Google how it was supposed to be written and that's what it gave me. I think. Also I was talking about it being 6 or 7 one thousandths of an inch and it was actually 10 one thousandths of an inch. So the unit is the same.
Haven´t seen it yet, but I love it already! :D
The blue oxidises the bolt. You should soak in oil after. Many interesting ways to blue. Using heat and or chemicals See My Mechanics, or Backyard Ballistics, or Clickspring for various guides.