Excellent info as always Vadim. Every time I go down a rabbit hole looking to improve my setup, I always end up finishing at one of your videos finding you've already conquered the idea.
Fascinating study, as usual, thanks for putting it together. The next place I would consider trying this would be on the honing wheel on the Twice As Sharp scissor sharpener. In my shop, I've gone to after-market belts on the Work Sharp (knife grinding attachment only) and finish with a leather belt and Tormek compound. I like that hanging strop option, however. The very last sentence in this video made me smile, thanks for that. Cheers!
That's almost my exactsetup as well, I think the aluminum oxide TAS wheel should do fine with the coolant. I use a chromium oxide and aluminum oxide Lee Valley combined compound for my Tormek leather wheel final finishing step, instead of the Tormek paste.
Nice video, appreciate the discussion. I’ve been doing a lot of work developing sharpening methods for the WorkSharp Ken Onion blade grinder just for the challenge/study of it. I’ve got common German steels nailed down to
Appreciate your taking time to share this. In our tests, "supersteels" sharpened with diamonds and CBN stay arm-shaving longer than sharpened with conventional abrasives. In other words, it matters where we need knives to stay very sharp for a long time. Manila rope moves the edge from arm-shaving to just "working sharp" in no time, and in the "working sharpness" there is practically no difference was the "supersteel" knife sharpened with diamonds/CBN or conventional abrasives. Of course, there is still a significant difference between the "supersteel" and mainstream knives.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 My hope was that the 1um diamond strop would be enough to “clean up” the overly stressed steel from the conventional abrasives and shape the harder carbides but based on the visual blunting and some discussions with others it doesn’t seem like it was effective. And it does seem like I’ve more confirmed what you’ve stated with the working edge performance on different abrasives. I think cardboard will be a more enlightening media to quantify the fine edge holding differences.
Howdy! Love the videos, been watching them for a year or so now and they are all very informative, I have learnt a lot! I have just gotten myself a new 8 inch dual speed grinder from Total Tools (an Abbott & Ashby model AA362W8DS) that does either 1440 or 2880 rpm, and wanting to have a go with the paper wheels - is what you are using possibly the 10 inch GAMECO Razor Sharp paper wheels? Also, do you suggest only using them as slotted for cooling reasons? Does the recommendation on the wheels of using an rpm of 3000 to 3600 matter so much? Cheers in advance!
In our sharpening we use only slotted "honing" paper wheels for deburring. We do not use paper wheels for grinding. Their grinding ability is limited - you can sharpen 200-300 knives at the existing edge angle, and then have to re-glue the grit. Re-profiling to a lower angle will wear off the grit x10 times faster. We've tried several PW brands, and "Razor Sharp Edgemaking System" are the best.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 Thanks heaps for the speedy reply. I have delved in to your website and found more info basically answering some of my own questions above. I definitely would only be using the paper wheels for 'deburring', as I am a *cough, cough* habitual user of the Work Sharp Ken Onion Blade Grinder, and just want another tool in my arsenal of all things sharpening, as another go to method of sorts when need be - also I am a Bark River fan and usually just do the ole strop with their black then green compounds on the leather strops for most of my 3V knives of theirs. Have just ordered some of your Honing Coolant, so can't wait to give it a try also, and then the next hurdle I guess will be 'truing' some paper wheels once I have ordered and received them! Cheers again!
Bill, it is for high RPM CBN/diamond wheels - we do not need the coolant on Tormek and alike slow grinders. If you think of using it in dry grinding on CBN on Tormek, better not - I tried and get a nice edge, but messy to remove the cold coolant with swarf in it from blades, and also the CBN wheel treated with this grease becomes hydrophobic, and when later i tried running it in the water trough, it gave a crazy spillage of water.
Flattered to have my work included here. Thank you very much, Vadim, and great insights as always 👏
Excellent info as always Vadim. Every time I go down a rabbit hole looking to improve my setup, I always end up finishing at one of your videos finding you've already conquered the idea.
Fascinating study, as usual, thanks for putting it together.
The next place I would consider trying this would be on the honing wheel on the Twice As Sharp scissor sharpener.
In my shop, I've gone to after-market belts on the Work Sharp (knife grinding attachment only) and finish with a leather belt and Tormek compound. I like that hanging strop option, however.
The very last sentence in this video made me smile, thanks for that.
Cheers!
That's almost my exactsetup as well, I think the aluminum oxide TAS wheel should do fine with the coolant. I use a chromium oxide and aluminum oxide Lee Valley combined compound for my Tormek leather wheel final finishing step, instead of the Tormek paste.
Ceramic course after market belts run much cooler as well for the blade grinding attachment
Nice video, appreciate the discussion. I’ve been doing a lot of work developing sharpening methods for the WorkSharp Ken Onion blade grinder just for the challenge/study of it.
I’ve got common German steels nailed down to
Appreciate your taking time to share this. In our tests, "supersteels" sharpened with diamonds and CBN stay arm-shaving longer than sharpened with conventional abrasives. In other words, it matters where we need knives to stay very sharp for a long time. Manila rope moves the edge from arm-shaving to just "working sharp" in no time, and in the "working sharpness" there is practically no difference was the "supersteel" knife sharpened with diamonds/CBN or conventional abrasives. Of course, there is still a significant difference between the "supersteel" and mainstream knives.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 My hope was that the 1um diamond strop would be enough to “clean up” the overly stressed steel from the conventional abrasives and shape the harder carbides but based on the visual blunting and some discussions with others it doesn’t seem like it was effective.
And it does seem like I’ve more confirmed what you’ve stated with the working edge performance on different abrasives. I think cardboard will be a more enlightening media to quantify the fine edge holding differences.
Negative outcome gives us as much knowledge as the positive, only hurts :)
Howdy! Love the videos, been watching them for a year or so now and they are all very informative, I have learnt a lot! I have just gotten myself a new 8 inch dual speed grinder from Total Tools (an Abbott & Ashby model AA362W8DS) that does either 1440 or 2880 rpm, and wanting to have a go with the paper wheels - is what you are using possibly the 10 inch GAMECO Razor Sharp paper wheels? Also, do you suggest only using them as slotted for cooling reasons? Does the recommendation on the wheels of using an rpm of 3000 to 3600 matter so much? Cheers in advance!
In our sharpening we use only slotted "honing" paper wheels for deburring. We do not use paper wheels for grinding. Their grinding ability is limited - you can sharpen 200-300 knives at the existing edge angle, and then have to re-glue the grit. Re-profiling to a lower angle will wear off the grit x10 times faster. We've tried several PW brands, and "Razor Sharp Edgemaking System" are the best.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 Thanks heaps for the speedy reply. I have delved in to your website and found more info basically answering some of my own questions above. I definitely would only be using the paper wheels for 'deburring', as I am a *cough, cough* habitual user of the Work Sharp Ken Onion Blade Grinder, and just want another tool in my arsenal of all things sharpening, as another go to method of sorts when need be - also I am a Bark River fan and usually just do the ole strop with their black then green compounds on the leather strops for most of my 3V knives of theirs. Have just ordered some of your Honing Coolant, so can't wait to give it a try also, and then the next hurdle I guess will be 'truing' some paper wheels once I have ordered and received them! Cheers again!
Do you have a Nth American distributor for the coolant?
What is in this honing stick? Any guesses?
You didn't mention specifically, but aluminum oxide grinder wheels?
How does this work on a CBN wheel on the Tormek? And thanks for all your videos.
Bill, it is for high RPM CBN/diamond wheels - we do not need the coolant on Tormek and alike slow grinders. If you think of using it in dry grinding on CBN on Tormek, better not - I tried and get a nice edge, but messy to remove the cold coolant with swarf in it from blades, and also the CBN wheel treated with this grease becomes hydrophobic, and when later i tried running it in the water trough, it gave a crazy spillage of water.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 Thank you so very much for getting back to me. You are always ready to help!!!
Do you sell this honing coolant in the USA? Does anybody?
We ship it to the USA by Express, please see our website for details.