bless you for doing this. I have a 30-year-old lawn tractor and needed to replace the carburetor, and this was invaluable. fortunately I found the right part and didn't need the OEM magic which you are sooo good at. Kudos. You're a true master.
That 10HP Briggs and Stratton I/C is one heck of a mower engine....I've started collecting the old Murray riders, and am always really happy when I see one of those engines inside of it.
Really very very good instructions, thank you buddy. Clear pics from yr camera, and, above all, in a perfect clear english voice!! Also, all the little trics well explained. Good work!
Great video .. Thanks main jet adjustment on the bottom..Got it... But you didn't really explain how to adjust the air-fuel (which is covered by the air filter) .. yes, 1-3/4 to start, then.... ? I'll do some research on that ..
@@MichaelLambert-hy9hf I usually leave them, basically set that and then adjust out the main jet. Sometimes if you have a rough idle they might need to be adjusted slightly in either direction, depends what the air fuel mixture is. Compression, quality of air filter, how the valves seal, it all makes these engines run a bit different.
i found a similar carb on amazon for around 30 bucks. but we will see how long it last. my old card was pretty gone and i kinda lost faith in fixing it with how hard it was to find a new carb. i have a john deere 68. 8hp/30" deck.
The old carb has the chock cable housing clamp and chock arm on the outside. The replacement carbs have the chock housing clamp on the outside and the chock arm on the inside. How did you clamp the chock housing when you assembled it?
I don’t understand on the aftermarket carbs, why they can’t be made to fit right up to the old ones. I had an aftermarket updraft Briggs. Needed so much work just to get it to mount right.
Did you have to take off the filter base again to adjust the air/fuel on top? And if so, how did you adjust it, like the bottom, turn one way then the other then find the middle?
I used a pair of needle nose pliers and just turned it out (counter clockwise) about an 1/8th of a turn. I guess I didn't film that part because I didn't have the footage!
I see William Painter ads on your channel, are those titanium sunglasses by William Painter (just interested)? By the way another excellent video showing all Eliminators that just because something is discontinued it may be as simple as you have shown by swapping out with a similar carb.
bless you for doing this. I have a 30-year-old lawn tractor and needed to replace the carburetor, and this was invaluable. fortunately I found the right part and didn't need the OEM magic which you are sooo good at. Kudos. You're a true master.
That 10HP Briggs and Stratton I/C is one heck of a mower engine....I've started collecting the old Murray riders, and am always really happy when I see one of those engines inside of it.
Really very very good instructions, thank you buddy. Clear pics from yr camera, and, above all, in a perfect clear english voice!! Also, all the little trics well explained. Good work!
Very clear and instructive thanks. Excellent camera work too.
Very helpful for the novice that only occasionally works on things. THANK YOU.
Thanks for watching!
Great Video. Cuz I'm old and lots of time to kill I'd have rebuilt that carb. But totally understand when repairing for someone else.
Great job you're a good mechanic
I don’t have a lawnmower but I’m going to subscribe anyways because, why not?
Destroy that subscribe button, and thanks for watching!
Wish more guys used anti seize on more things. Can save so much time years later!
Exactly, takes little time to do as well, and quite inexpensive as well if you think about it!
Great job and saved customers money 😊
As always very informative 👍
Thanks for watching Don!
As always, great video. Thanks for sharing tricks of the trade.
Thanks for watching!
You are very good at what you do thank you
Great video .. Thanks main jet adjustment on the bottom..Got it... But you didn't really explain how to adjust the air-fuel (which is covered by the air filter) .. yes, 1-3/4 to start, then.... ? I'll do some research on that ..
@@MichaelLambert-hy9hf I usually leave them, basically set that and then adjust out the main jet. Sometimes if you have a rough idle they might need to be adjusted slightly in either direction, depends what the air fuel mixture is. Compression, quality of air filter, how the valves seal, it all makes these engines run a bit different.
@@EliminatorPerformance Thanks!...
Great video man vary helpful much appreciated
Thanks for watching!
Great fix, and many thanks for an excellent video.
Thanks for watching!
Very Impressive!
Well done my man
i found a similar carb on amazon for around 30 bucks. but we will see how long it last. my old card was pretty gone and i kinda lost faith in fixing it with how hard it was to find a new carb. i have a john deere 68. 8hp/30" deck.
Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Did it end up fitting? Also have a 8hp/30" that needs a new carb. looking at the 491590
cool i have a jd 68 as well rebuilt the motor carb works good its original and it doesnt flood which is a plus
The old carb has the chock cable housing clamp and chock arm on the outside. The replacement carbs have the chock housing clamp on the outside and the chock arm on the inside. How did you clamp the chock housing when you assembled it?
I want to know that to
How close to your $ estimate? Your customer picked the right shop. Glad it worked out, giving that classic rider another lease on life. Well done.
I believe it was like $56 over my original quote!
I gave him a deal on labour, 1st time customer, told him I did a video on it and he was super happy!
@@EliminatorPerformance Good man for the deal. I never knew about the baking soda. Thanks
I don’t understand on the aftermarket carbs, why they can’t be made to fit right up to the old ones.
I had an aftermarket updraft Briggs. Needed so much work just to get it to mount right.
Great job on the engine carburetor install my Canadian brother 😀😀😀😀
Thanks for watching!
Is it on snow blower???
Did you have to take off the filter base again to adjust the air/fuel on top? And if so, how did you adjust it, like the bottom, turn one way then the other then find the middle?
I used a pair of needle nose pliers and just turned it out (counter clockwise) about an 1/8th of a turn.
I guess I didn't film that part because I didn't have the footage!
@@EliminatorPerformance Thank you, you make good videos and I do enjoy them
@@robindee7577 thanks for watching Robin!
Good video but would have been nice to have shown the linkages
I see William Painter ads on your channel, are those titanium sunglasses by William Painter (just interested)? By the way another excellent video showing all Eliminators that just because something is discontinued it may be as simple as you have shown by swapping out with a similar carb.
Yes, I own a couple pairs actually!
Whats the part number for the shut valve on the carb
Google briggs 90 degree fuel shut off valve
Look man that was too smooth. You're going to have to start snapping bolts or something....sprinkle in some drama lol.
Lol that's how it is over here for the most part! Thanks for watching!
👍
Hello. From where yuo get new carborator?
Amazon Canada!
Here's a link: www.amazon.ca/s?k=491590
Can anyone help me find an air filter housing that will work with this carb my 10hp has the metal one and not the plastic kind
Hi, What's the throttle position when adjusting the bottom mixture screw and as well for the final A/F mix on the top? Thanks
Run position just before choke
I don’t under the bolts through the air filter
Good job =
Eliminator Performance with Pro-Jake !!! hihihihi !!!
Thanks for watching!
Watched this for carb adjustment and he slipped over that part.
Dont ever use Copper paste, use molybden paste. Copper and steel will be effected by galvanisation processes!
It is kinda scary to think that we have to go to China , half way around the world for parts .
Yessir, but they sure have saved me many times! Thanks for watching!