If you live in the northeast, try this trick. Leave draw bar in receiver from December to March without removing, no more rattle and no one can steal it.
Left mine in for 2 yrs in Michigan. Tried many things. What did work I think was a combination of white vinegar and heat. Took a 2 gal zip lock bag, put it over the hitch assembly. Taped and zip tied it all up to the hitch. filled it with white vinegar and then zip tied the bottom up towards the top until the hitch was completely covered with vinegar. Let it set for two weeks. When I took it off I used a 3 pounds sledge to try and move it and it barely moved. I asked a mechanic at work what he recommended and he said lots of heat. Used a torch with map gas for about a half an hour while still using the 3 pounds sledge and it finally came out. Had to get a new insert but at least I can use my receiver now.
I fixed this problem years ago by sliding a piece of shrink tubing over the bar and heating it up. Shrink wrap from an Hobbies shop used for making batteries for RC cars. Lasted forever, prevented rusted bar and stayed firm.
I have been doing this for many years.Drill hole in bottom of receiver then weld a nut over the hole then slide in stinger & then simply screw a bolt into nut to take out the play
Nice. I did the exact same thing by taking a paint stick & tapping it into the gap between hitch & receiver and i believe home depot even gave me the paint stick 👍👍👍
That's pretty cleaver. What I did is I replaced my hitch pin with a grade 8 bolt and nut and torqued it down hard so it squeezes the receiver tube a bit to keep the hitch tight. Works perfectly! No more play at all anymore and it can't be stolen nearly as easily as pulling a pin out. And at least in my situation, removing the bolt allowed me to remove the hitch no problem, so the receiver tube wasn't damaged or permanently deformed. Win win!
Excellent vid! You've explained what it does, how it does it and how to make it work. Teaching at its best! And then you even showed where to purchase it!!!
I use two plastic shims. One vertical and one horizontal. Works great. Jam one In & snap it off flush. Haven't had one fall out. Got em at ace. Comes in a pack of like 20
We have the same style of receiver hitch in Australia, & they come from the factory with a nut welded over a hole on one of the top corners, with a bolt that you tighten to achieve the same result.
I’ve had trouble with my hitch loose for quite some time. I’ve tried the wood jammed in. That didn’t work for long. I’ve spot welded it but that wears smooth. I just watched your video and I went right to amazon and ordered the same one you have. I’m hoping this will cure my problem. Thanks.
Ditto here. I like the wedge shape of the shim: Just stick one in the gap...and then pound it in until it can't go no more. Yeah, the wood shim will be like crap after a summer of rain. But hey, no problem: Just use a another shim! What are they...like, $3.99 for a bundle of 12?
I wedged a plastic spacer that came in a laminate flooring kit into my receiver. No more rattle. I can even remove the draw bar, replace and tap the wedge back in.
I had that rattle while pulling a small u-haul trailer. I wrapped a couple layers of electrical tape around right inside where it met the receiver just to tighten it up. This is a cool little clamp idea though.
I don't notice hitch rattle maybe my diesel is too loud or I've gotten used to having my hitch in. Or is it becuase I have the right sized hitch in the receiver. IDK I just tow everyday
Saw this last week and went to amazon and found it for 28.50. I made one yesterday for around 2 bucks I guess. Some round stock, welder and a tap and die set.
Or you can just wrap the entire hitch sleeve in electrical tape. Just put enough so that it slips in snug. Cut a hole where the pin goes. No noise or vibration at all. Pretty much free
I solved this issue by taking a simple L shaped metal bracket , using a file to narrow the thickness of one end and then hammering it into the gap between the receiver and the hitch. Then I just wrapped some electrical tape around it so it couldn't vibrate out. I lasted the entire ride from Florida to NY State with no problem. My cost ... $1.00 ...
I did something similar beforeI picked this up. When we take the bikes out, my daughters ATV goes in the bed, my bike goes on the carrier. It’s a lot easier when you have to take the rack on and off multiple times a day to have something purpose built.
I had no idea why the previous owner put those things on the Jeep. Then again, I don’t leave the hitch in the receiver when it’s not in use. Thanks for teaching me something today.
Haha! The guy has a point though with real trucks and unibody manvans. I did drive a newer Grand Cherokee down unmaintained roads with a trailer for a living a few summers back and the wood wedges always came out, by the end of the day I was never happier to hear silence.
@@M.Miller262 all the blazers k5 and S10 even trailblazers were body on frame, Tahoe's were body on frame as well. Depends what Jeep you're talking about wranglers are still body on frame everything else Jeep is unibody
@@veteranheavyequipmechanic4990 i meant uni body as in one single body together, not a seperate cab and bed, but yes im aware those are all body on full frame considering i own a blazer and worked at the GM dealership for some time.
@@M.Miller262 then why did you use them as an example of unibody vehicles in your last post Considering that in a full frame vehicle the hitch isn't attached to the body there's not much difference in noise compared to a pickup. I towed with a 2500 Suburban for years before I got my truck and theres no difference in ride or noise
My towball on my vehicle is permanent. I had a slight rattle. I drove a thick galv washer into the gap on the top side with a hammer and steel bar. Been there for years . Hasn't fallen out. Never a rattle since.
In australia not surein america our reece hitch style like yours in video always has a nut welded to bottom corner of steel and a bolt with a safety lock nut is bolted thru and pushes hitch to corner and lockes it and stops rattle
Ed Parnell if it’s swaying down the road, your trailer is either poorly built or your load is wrong on the trailer. The hitch “slop” shouldn’t cause this.
How does it do with any side shimmy? This is a great idea! I have a 2.5 receiver with a sleeve for a 2" bicycle rack. The rack has an anti-move internal wedge that tightens up, but because of the sleeve, the wedge clamps the sleeve but the sleeve wobbles.
Great idea, but $20???! A square u bolt costs about $2.00 Even if you weren't happy with the inexpensive U bolt for some reason, you could easily drill 2 holes in a short pipe and have something identical to this.
i made one with a 3" square u bolt from TSC and a piece of ¾" round stock, cut/drilled it like the one pictured. got all of about $4 in it from the u bolt and maybe an hour of time.
This is one of those products that for sure needs an update after one (or more) year of use. One needs to know if the parts that are tight together might get a bit lose. Anyway, a great (first time) review. Thank you.
I can’t really comment about one that is left permanently on, but I’ve been using the mount for last 2-3 years every time I ride without issue. I even had it on yesterday.
One way to make sure you have his rattle is to go get one from Harbor freight and they’re like a quarter inch smaller all the way around. Took me two days to figure out that was what was going on the back of my truck after I got one
Add some lock washers or locktite or your little addition is going to be in pieces on the road. Vibration will loosen those nuts rather quickly on a rough bouncy road.
Old trick I do is that I drill & tap a 1/2 hole on the bottom backside of the receiver. Then I use a 1/2 bolt in the tapped hole.. keeps the hitch nice and tight... 3/4 wrench is needed to lossen the bolt to remove the hitch... Been doing this trick for years
Good idea, think i will make my own, 28 Bucks is a little to much for a 15 cent ubolt...... Though i commend you for your success and sharing, Thanks for the video! God bless.
this is similar to what I did except I used an advertising type license plate that come on my new truck real thick plastic I made shimmed out of that and sled in there haven't had any problem and it's been in there two years it also helps keep rust from building up
Basic towing 101. Hitch pin should always go in from drivers side with the safety pin on passenger side. If you would happen to loose the safety pin there is less chance of the hitch pin vibrating out due to the fact that that all roads are slightly crowned in the middle
I wish this design would work for those who use a 3 way hitch. I use all 3 sizes as well as the tow hook on my hitch on a daily basis and don't have time to screw with unbolting this, then rebolting it after I switch my hitch size
My bike rack came with a special pin to put in the receiver that had threads also. The rack has a nut on the inside so it pulled it to one side stopping the rattling.
Would It still work if you reversed it so the bolt ends aren't pointing upwards? just curious, I would be a buyer if it would..Have kids that jump up in the back of the truck and just want to minimize possibility of injury on the bolt threads point upwards..
Yeah, that would work. The only problems would be the load on the u bolt would be further from the corners and the round bar might slip off of the lip of the receiver more easily than the u bolt. Cap nuts might be a good option.
Ouch it hurt seeing your TTR slammed that much. Be careful you might blow a fork seal if you ratchet it down that tight. I made a fork saver out of some wood, you place it up between your tire and the fender to basically act as a bump stop so it wont crank down anymore.
I used this with the hitch for my trailer, I haven't had the need with my larger trailer, the tongue in snug and doesn't wobble with the load distribution bars in place so I can't answer to that.
If you live in the northeast, try this trick. Leave draw bar in receiver from December to March without removing, no more rattle and no one can steal it.
woohunter1 did that. Hitch went with the car. I couldn't get it out and I tried everything I could think of.
rust.lol
Angle grinder.
Never to be removed again.
Left mine in for 2 yrs in Michigan. Tried many things. What did work I think was a combination of white vinegar and heat. Took a 2 gal zip lock bag, put it over the hitch assembly. Taped and zip tied it all up to the hitch. filled it with white vinegar and then zip tied the bottom up towards the top until the hitch was completely covered with vinegar. Let it set for two weeks. When I took it off I used a 3 pounds sledge to try and move it and it barely moved. I asked a mechanic at work what he recommended and he said lots of heat. Used a torch with map gas for about a half an hour while still using the 3 pounds sledge and it finally came out. Had to get a new insert but at least I can use my receiver now.
I fixed this problem years ago by sliding a piece of shrink tubing over the bar and heating it up. Shrink wrap from an Hobbies shop used for making batteries for RC cars. Lasted forever, prevented rusted bar and stayed firm.
That is a brilliant idea!
I have been doing this for many years.Drill hole in bottom of receiver then weld a nut over the hole then slide in stinger & then simply screw a bolt into nut to take out the play
But then the load is riding on that bolt...
@@agger838 then drill hole on the top and proceed with same instructions. No longer riding on the bolt.
The bolt is behind the pin... Most modern towbars have this already built in..
I would just put the right hitch on
When you buy a Chevy or GMC brand new 3/4 ton truck comes the larger hole than the 1/2 ton
Such a simple solution to an annoying problem. Great presentation, huge thanks .
Nice. I did the exact same thing by taking a paint stick & tapping it into the gap between hitch & receiver and i believe home depot even gave me the paint stick 👍👍👍
That's pretty cleaver. What I did is I replaced my hitch pin with a grade 8 bolt and nut and torqued it down hard so it squeezes the receiver tube a bit to keep the hitch tight. Works perfectly! No more play at all anymore and it can't be stolen nearly as easily as pulling a pin out. And at least in my situation, removing the bolt allowed me to remove the hitch no problem, so the receiver tube wasn't damaged or permanently deformed. Win win!
I just ran a couple beads of weld near the corners of the draw bar than ground them down with an angle grinder till the slop was gone.
Excellent vid! You've explained what it does, how it does it and how to make it work. Teaching at its best! And then you even showed where to purchase it!!!
I use two plastic shims. One vertical and one horizontal. Works great. Jam one In & snap it off flush. Haven't had one fall out. Got em at ace. Comes in a pack of like 20
For starters, use a 5/8” pin in a 5/8” hole. You have a 1/2” pin in the beginning of the video.
I went to ace hardware and bought a 3inch ushape u bolt with the flat metal bar it works good
Never had this issue with my old hitch why don’t they just make them the correct size? Think I might try shims.
We have the same style of receiver hitch in Australia, & they come from the factory with a nut welded over a hole on one of the top corners, with a bolt that you tighten to achieve the same result.
smart design
There’s actually a sleeve that goes in that receiver. I have a 2 1/4” to 2” sleeve in mine and I don’t ever have any rattle
That’s just not accurate for everybody. I have a 2” receiver and receiver tube and there’s tons of slop. It just depends on the manufacturer.
Thanks for the video bud. I bought a truck extended kit and a hitch clamp come with it but no instructions as usual.
I’ve had trouble with my hitch loose for quite some time. I’ve tried the wood jammed in. That didn’t work for long. I’ve spot welded it but that wears smooth. I just watched your video and I went right to amazon and ordered the same one you have. I’m hoping this will cure my problem. Thanks.
I'm a carpenter I use a wood shim they don't last forever but I change my hitch pretty often and I just drive another shim in no big deal
Been doing that for years. Works great.
Ditto here. I like the wedge shape of the shim: Just stick one in the gap...and then pound it in until it can't go no more. Yeah, the wood shim will be like crap after a summer of rain. But hey, no problem: Just use a another shim! What are they...like, $3.99 for a bundle of 12?
I wedged a plastic spacer that came in a laminate flooring kit into my receiver.
No more rattle. I can even remove the draw bar, replace and tap the wedge back in.
I've had trouble with this for years. Will give it a try. Thanks for the video.
+heted1 I still use it every time I take my dirtbike out, still love it!
Get a hitch with propper size shaft no more issues.
I had that rattle while pulling a small u-haul trailer. I wrapped a couple layers of electrical tape around right inside where it met the receiver just to tighten it up. This is a cool little clamp idea though.
I don't notice hitch rattle maybe my diesel is too loud or I've gotten used to having my hitch in. Or is it becuase I have the right sized hitch in the receiver. IDK I just tow everyday
lol exactly!! If the raddle is louder than my 5.9 then I pull over and fix it 'immediately' !
Thanks a lot for your simple anti rattle trick.
Finally something i hoped to do, keep the hitch from wobbling. Never herd of these but so simple to use.
I like how simple it is!
This is starting to be a great channel.
Keep up the good work ;)
Nice! Looks great. I hate hitch rattle. Going to get one. Thanks again for the video
Glad to hear it! I've been very happy with mine, still use it a lot.
Saw this last week and went to amazon and found it for 28.50. I made one yesterday for around 2 bucks I guess. Some round stock, welder and a tap and die set.
H&P Customs yeah all you need is 2000 bucks in tools you have had for 30 years. Saves so much money
H&P Customs what was the welder for?
exactly
@@JM-yx1lm I made one no welder req .
The "play" was driving me nuts with our bicycles in the back. Tried metal shims but they fall out... I will give this a try! Thanks for posting!
Or you can just wrap the entire hitch sleeve in electrical tape. Just put enough so that it slips in snug. Cut a hole where the pin goes. No noise or vibration at all. Pretty much free
Did the same with duct tape. Snug as a bug 👍🏻
That trick makes it harder for someone to steal your ball and hitch.
I own an Avalanche and I hear all of the hitch noise. Totally going try this!
I solved this issue by taking a simple L shaped metal bracket , using a file to narrow the thickness of one end and then hammering it into the gap between the receiver and the hitch. Then I just wrapped some electrical tape around it so it couldn't vibrate out. I lasted the entire ride from Florida to NY State with no problem. My cost ... $1.00 ...
I did something similar beforeI picked this up. When we take the bikes out, my daughters ATV goes in the bed, my bike goes on the carrier. It’s a lot easier when you have to take the rack on and off multiple times a day to have something purpose built.
A couple of wraps of electric tape will make it fit tighter as well.
I had no idea why the previous owner put those things on the Jeep. Then again, I don’t leave the hitch in the receiver when it’s not in use. Thanks for teaching me something today.
Yuppie problems!! Turn your premium sound system up a few notches.
Haha! The guy has a point though with real trucks and unibody manvans. I did drive a newer Grand Cherokee down unmaintained roads with a trailer for a living a few summers back and the wood wedges always came out, by the end of the day I was never happier to hear silence.
unibody type vehicles (blazer, tahoe, jeep,etc.) rattle like hell, trucks not so bad
@@M.Miller262 all the blazers k5 and S10 even trailblazers were body on frame, Tahoe's were body on frame as well. Depends what Jeep you're talking about wranglers are still body on frame everything else Jeep is unibody
@@veteranheavyequipmechanic4990 i meant uni body as in one single body together, not a seperate cab and bed, but yes im aware those are all body on full frame considering i own a blazer and worked at the GM dealership for some time.
@@M.Miller262 then why did you use them as an example of unibody vehicles in your last post
Considering that in a full frame vehicle the hitch isn't attached to the body there's not much difference in noise compared to a pickup. I towed with a 2500 Suburban for years before I got my truck and theres no difference in ride or noise
You have a very ill fitting draw bar on that hitch !!! I have never seen a hitch that loose !!!!
Walmart crap
@@roberttrull2525 Nast dangerous crap. The movement up and down back and forward, it'll wear and fail.
Its the infomercial frustrating hitch. It doesn't exist in real life
3rd world countries have a very different idea precision. I think that's called a "universal" fit. Eh, close enough.
Looks like a class 3 draw bar in a class 4 receiver.
I always shimmed it with thin metal inside the hitch. Worked perfect.
My towball on my vehicle is permanent. I had a slight rattle. I drove a thick galv washer into the gap on the top side with a hammer and steel bar. Been there for years . Hasn't fallen out. Never a rattle since.
Made one about 20 years ago and its been on 3 different trucks still works gerat
here in australia we have a bolt with a lock nut under neath
simple tighten bolt lock nut no rattle
Nice and a different approach but I’d definitely apply some lock washers!
In australia not surein america our reece hitch style like yours in video always has a nut welded to bottom corner of steel and a bolt with a safety lock nut is bolted thru and pushes hitch to corner and lockes it and stops rattle
Thanks for the advice on the hitch clamp. I'll be looking for one. My trailer wobbles from side to side with a middle to light load .
Thank you again.
Ed Parnell if it’s swaying down the road, your trailer is either poorly built or your load is wrong on the trailer. The hitch “slop” shouldn’t cause this.
@@BackFortyTV maybe I have a bent wheel. It doesn't do this when I pull from the bumper. Thanks for the advice. I'll have the trailer checked out.
Ed Parnell yes sir. Only trying to help, not being an internet troll.
Very informative. I am using an ultra-tow hitch carrier. The hitch clamp they sell looks terrible. I’ll try this guy. Thanks.
Awesome gadget .quick and simple fix ...satisfaction was accomplished here that's for sure
I use two on my hitch set up, love them.
I put a small piece of RV roof repair tape on the hitch iteself to cushion it. Don’t use a lot of it, 1/2” at most. Stuff is really tough.
Such a simple and great solution. Thank you.
How does it do with any side shimmy? This is a great idea! I have a 2.5 receiver with a sleeve for a 2" bicycle rack. The rack has an anti-move internal wedge that tightens up, but because of the sleeve, the wedge clamps the sleeve but the sleeve wobbles.
Pretty well, . I really don’t have any side to side wobble with my motorcycle carrier on it.
Got something similar on Amazon. One of my favorite purchases.
Great info! I never thought of this. This will definitely help the t-bone I used to hold my kayak.
There is a sleeve that usually comes from the factory try using that. Gm15923277
Yeah he has a 2in hitch in a 21/4 reciever
Looks like u have a 2inch hitch and 2 1/4 reciever
Dustin Maschek you are on the mark!
please show me where you can find a 2 1/4 inch hitch
All receivers are 2 1/4, and hitches are 2
Fantastic idea, thank you for sharing.
You had the right answer and explained it is a very easy way to understand, thanks so much
Great idea, but $20???!
A square u bolt costs about $2.00
Even if you weren't happy with the inexpensive U bolt for some reason, you could easily drill 2 holes in a short pipe and have something identical to this.
i made one with a 3" square u bolt from TSC and a piece of ¾" round stock, cut/drilled it like the one pictured. got all of about $4 in it from the u bolt and maybe an hour of time.
This is one of those products that for sure needs an update after one (or more) year of use.
One needs to know if the parts that are tight together might get a bit lose.
Anyway, a great (first time) review. Thank you.
I can’t really comment about one that is left permanently on, but I’ve been using the mount for last 2-3 years every time I ride without issue. I even had it on yesterday.
@@DoItYourselfDad well, thank you!
Very nice but I'd add couple of lock washers so that it doesn't come loose.
Thanks man!! Great review video!!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info and review
One way to make sure you have his rattle is to go get one from Harbor freight and they’re like a quarter inch smaller all the way around. Took me two days to figure out that was what was going on the back of my truck after I got one
Add some lock washers or locktite or your little addition is going to be in pieces on the road. Vibration will loosen those nuts rather quickly on a rough bouncy road.
I tow every day I never had that problem you need a better hitch mount on you truck my don’t have that play
Lock washers don’t work. Loctite or nylock does.
akbychoice if u know how to use the lock washers they do work lmao u most not work on anything ever 😑
RCman look up AvE on RUclips, he has a video that will show it. Think what you want your opinion means nothing to me.
Or a second set of nuts locked against the first ones.
Great idea! I wish I had seen this years ago when I needed it.
I see how that device eliminates wobble up & down, but what about side-to-side?
Old trick I do is that I drill & tap a 1/2 hole on the bottom backside of the receiver. Then I use a 1/2 bolt in the tapped hole.. keeps the hitch nice and tight... 3/4 wrench is needed to lossen the bolt to remove the hitch... Been doing this trick for years
Good video. Answered my questions and was well made. Thank you
Awesome video review. Just what ive neen looking for. Thank you
Good idea, think i will make my own, 28 Bucks is a little to much for a 15 cent ubolt......
Though i commend you for your success and sharing, Thanks for the video!
God bless.
The U bolt work, just double or triple up then flat piece that goes across. When I tried a U bolt it bent.
Awesome 👍 thanks for sharing, I knew there was something that fixed that annoying as hell rattling. Thanks again
cut a shim out of a plastic milk container . Also if its rattling while towing consider re loading your trailer to get 10% tongue weight.
this is similar to what I did except I used an advertising type license plate that come on my new truck real thick plastic I made shimmed out of that and sled in there haven't had any problem and it's been in there two years it also helps keep rust from building up
Hey good idea, have you tried the boss anti rattle hitch support it actually goes inside the hitch. Thanks for the vid.
Thank u...i will give it a try!
Muffler clamp will do the same thing a lot cheaper
Basic towing 101. Hitch pin should always go in from drivers side with the safety pin on passenger side. If you would happen to loose the safety pin there is less chance of the hitch pin vibrating out due to the fact that that all roads are slightly crowned in the middle
I didn't know that.
This is the dumbest advice I’ve ever heard
I wish this design would work for those who use a 3 way hitch. I use all 3 sizes as well as the tow hook on my hitch on a daily basis and don't have time to screw with unbolting this, then rebolting it after I switch my hitch size
Impact driver with a socket adapter, and a deep well socket, makes very short work of this.
My receiver is 11/2 " will this clamp work for me
Yes, we’ve used it on out small receiver.
Great hack! Saves a lot of money too!
you are a moron
It works get one nuff said
Where did you get the 2 1/2” hold down and a link?
My bike rack came with a special pin to put in the receiver that had threads also. The rack has a nut on the inside so it pulled it to one side stopping the rattling.
Those work great. We use two cause we put a lift on the carry cage. They are great. 🤠👍
Look like a great idea
Remove the hitch when not in use so I don't bag it to it. Are they really that lose? I never noticed. I do like the clamp though.
I've only had 3/4 ton trucks never heard it rattle.
I have this on my truck. Works great. But only if you don't intend to remove your hitch. Otherwise it's a minor inconvenience.
Would It still work if you reversed it so the bolt ends aren't pointing upwards? just curious, I would be a buyer if it would..Have kids that jump up in the back of the truck and just want to minimize possibility of injury on the bolt threads point upwards..
+R Jenkins pretty sure it would.
Yes but then it would be supporting a load, would it matter? Prolly not.
I'm thinking you would flip the orientation but still have it pinning it in the down position.
Yeah, that would work. The only problems would be the load on the u bolt would be further from the corners and the round bar might slip off of the lip of the receiver more easily than the u bolt. Cap nuts might be a good option.
Or acorn nuts on the end of the threads.
I appreciate that info.
I have this unit n it works great
Thanks for the video. My concerns about installing a Cruiserlift are gone.
Thanks for watching! I'm still using for my dirt bikes and still very happy with it.
Ouch it hurt seeing your TTR slammed that much. Be careful you might blow a fork seal if you ratchet it down that tight. I made a fork saver out of some wood, you place it up between your tire and the fender to basically act as a bump stop so it wont crank down anymore.
Thanks, I starting using a block of wood on the advice of a friend a while back!
I just drove a nail into the gap, quiet there after
😂 yes nail also works.
You were the one that drops the nails into my tire!
Been using reese hitchs for years and never had that much play. It would make me thank there might be another problem.
CHC it’s because this is a dollar store hitch. Looks cheap as hell
@@Brandonpowerstroke my thoughts exactly I was trying to be nice and not calling him cheap.
Brandon is right... my rease hitch dont move much
Also you can put a few wraps of duct tape around the hitch before installing it. Put just brought to make it snug.
Stay out of Harbor Freight
I just live in Michigan... the hitch will get rust welded to the receiver, and wont ever move again... even if I want it to...
Good chain around a tree and a decently rated rope with enough speed will rip it out.
@@brandoncaldwell95 either that or the frame will come out too!
@@nicholasmapes na, if anything itll loose about 1200lbs of rust.
@@brandoncaldwell95 yeah, but I won't have a rear axle lol
@@nicholasmapes ducttape and zip ties. It fixes anything.
My question is would this work with RV type hitches? Would this be applicable for RVs? Or is this made mainly for bike racks, or racks in general.
I used this with the hitch for my trailer, I haven't had the need with my larger trailer, the tongue in snug and doesn't wobble with the load distribution bars in place so I can't answer to that.
I learned something today 🤔
Thank you ☺️
That’s a great idea we be buying one soon
very nice. I'll buy one of these soon +
Thank you found this video very helpful!!
That is exactly what I need! Thanx for posting!✌🏼
Thanks! Hope the clamp helps you out!
My hitch has been in for years, so much rust I don’t even need a pin lol but I still have 1