Filling print cavities after printing to shorten print time and add back a ton of strength is #1. I've been printing for, like, 6-7 years, and I'm still amazed so many people rarely do this. Printing small sections of a larger print to test fittings is also gold.
Filling print cavities would/should rarely decrease print time, and probably even increases material usage. Printing big and bulky doesn't use a lot of material, since the vast majority of a print is hollow. The most plastic is used by the bottom and top surface, but walls can be pretty big ones too depending on the number of loops. With the part shown in this video, there probably was virtually no savings in filament usage (depending on the infill settings, which people usually have WAY too high). Without the middle divider, there would probably have been some savings, but way too little to offset the expensive epoxy.
Choice of materials matter as well. I’ve seen people use printer scraps, nuts and bolts, rocks, sand, and concrete for various applications. Some of those things were for strength and stability from additional weight.
@@timderks5960She did say expired epoxy. So I’m assuming she wasn’t going to use that for anything critical. But for supporting a printed part, she’s assuming it’s effective enough.
@ricardohnn I cast things in resin at work weekly. If you decrease the amount of curing agent, you can lower curing temps. There is a limit, though. At some point it won't fully cure, so experiment first.
You can use metal filings or powder/scrap in the resin to add weight as well. I had some tungsten powder that made it easy to add a lot of weight to small items
For that last tip on joining the parts. You may also need alignment holes for removable pins to ensure that you put them together precisely. Have some precision stainless steel pins of various sizes handy for this purpose.
I know this sounds weird but, I have a 3D printer to be delivered in two days and while I have a bunch of simple around the house things I know I want to print (Planters, spice racks, controller stands) the idea of designing things, especially mechanical things is ultimately the end game of what I want to do. I find it simultaneously exciting and terrifying. Watching this, despite being simple and short, shows me someone in that world having success and showing what they learned and that reassures me to a high degree! Thank you 😊
You're going to love it. It seemed overwhelming at first but after a while just second nature. I'm about to dive into CNC milling for the first time and am hoping that will also seem easy after a while, but anything new is hard and frustrating at first.
Another companion to the section printing is to generate simple technical drawings of your models and printing them on paper at 100% scale, that way you can check alignment of holes and radii of fillets without wasting any filament. This saved me a lot of time when printing enclosures for custom circuit boards
@@LindyDesignLabAgree. I remember doing it at school when we had design and construction, as a check before the parts went into production. When you had more complex designs it was very handy. Thanks @bena2.014 for reminding me.
The last tip is something I just figured out on my own. I had an object with curved recesses in it so instead of printing it flat which would cause the layers to be very visible I printed two halves standing on their ends instead. Layers vanished but I do have to glue the two halves together.
You can also fill cavities with plaster or cement/concrete to get more weight. It might not be as pretty and adhesion to the print isn't super but it's both heavier than resin and is so much cheaper.
Agreed! And I also incorporate grooves/ridges on the inside of my designs to create a 'lock' with the plaster or cement. It takes a bit longer to print, but the filler isn't going anywhere.
Great tips! I myself use M4 bolts and nuts to join parts wherever I can. All my bolts are in the same style, I can (dis)assemble everything with the same tool every time and I know the tolerances. Threaded inserts? No, again just M4 nuts but with tighter tolerances so they have to be pulled into the hole via a screw.
This basically covers everything I also love to see others do. Especially the 'vitamins' part. Maybe you know this, but the term that has been used for more than 15 years for additional parts is vitamins. And every time I mention the term, I notice people don't understand what I mean hahaha 😂 Great video, great mind!
For the epoxy do you find that it actually saves time and/or cost? I’ve tried hollowing parts out before and frequently it doesn’t improve print times or filament uses, as it need to spend more time on slow walls rather than quick infil. But that would certainly be stronger
It really depends on the project and if you have epoxy on hand to use up. For the project shown in the video I needed to test an entire assembly before I knew if the parts would work, so converting the test parts into solid usable parts made sense.
I’m used to videos like this having one nugget of new information that isn’t just the common way to do things throughout the community, or, at least the way half do it - at war with the other half who says to never do it, but either way, 80% of what they say isn’t groundbreaking. I have been 3D printing for 10 years.. this was straight 200IQ from start to finish. I think the only one I *have* done is splitting a print to burry a bearing. So 1 for 5 that I have haven’t done instead of 1 for 5 that I have! - I have *seen* people use multiple materials but haven’t felt I needed it myself, so even that’s 3/5, which, to reiterate, is 3X what I’m used to. 300-400% better than most.. and I’ve been 3D printing (and watching videos on RUclips about 3D printing) for a literal decade.. /rant
Hi, nice reel, good tips and great shots. I would only give you a piece of advice when recording your voice overs, always, always use a hi-pass filter to prevent those unnerving thump low frequency bumps everytime you pronounce a t or a p.
Thank you, getting good audio is definitely not my strength. But I've changed mics and learned a bit more how to use the audio editor in my software since making this. Hopefully better in newer content going forward.
I thought about the epoxy thing myself but never tried it. For one in my big clumsy hands, bound to end up a mess everywhere. But more importantly I assumed the heat developed during the curing of epoxy might cause some warping?
You can combine epoxy with sand and/or small rocks. It saves lot of epoxy and can add more weight. Similar polymer concrete formula is used to make very rigid industrial machines
Epoxy is so dang expensive, I can’t think of anything I’d need so strong I’d be willing to spend the money and time to do that vs printing what I need when I need it. Maybe you can give me some tips on what to make so I have an excuse to do that lol
@@LindyDesignLab you are doing things right. Epoxy is much stronger. It is a structural adhesive. Superglue that cure with moisture will always have the weakness of not being able to withstand moisture, like dishwasher. UV curing cyano acrylates don't have that problem. I was impressed. Was just thinking you made the part very massive, yet the bolt holes were not reinforced.
@@herrkulor3771 Thanks for the explanation on the epoxy vs superglue! For this assembly, there is no strain on the bolt holes because it's held together with the compression of a nut on the end. Also any moving parts are on bearings, so again no wear or heat buildup from friction. The parts are also chunky to fit with the standard hardware size I use and with the spools that this dispenses.
Plastic welding guns, that use staple like tips that you melt into your part then cut off the excess are great for out of sight spots. Greatly increasing strength and quick. Can be used in place of clamps on parts assembeled with epoxy say. Glue and clamp, heat wled them then remove the clamps. Good for bulk production runs.
а хорошая идея, заливать смолой. можно сделать не только полости, для этого, но и соединить их каналами и чтобы внутрь детали заливалось. условно говоря сделать тонко стенную, не извлекаемую форму для заливки
Great video. I always wonder why people print parts that are readily available, cheap and far superior to prints. I mean profiles, PVC pipes, metal of plastic sheet. Combine and only print what you really need. Also, get a 150 euro CNC hobby machine and combine printing with CNC.
Ok you save time printing but need to wait 24/48h for the resin to harden, where's the logic in that, plus you loose one of the main benefits of printing, not wasting material on an object being solid
Filling print cavities after printing to shorten print time and add back a ton of strength is #1.
I've been printing for, like, 6-7 years, and I'm still amazed so many people rarely do this.
Printing small sections of a larger print to test fittings is also gold.
Yes! To test fit I always print a “stencil” (only 2 or 4 layers ) to check holes, fit, etc
Filling print cavities would/should rarely decrease print time, and probably even increases material usage. Printing big and bulky doesn't use a lot of material, since the vast majority of a print is hollow. The most plastic is used by the bottom and top surface, but walls can be pretty big ones too depending on the number of loops. With the part shown in this video, there probably was virtually no savings in filament usage (depending on the infill settings, which people usually have WAY too high). Without the middle divider, there would probably have been some savings, but way too little to offset the expensive epoxy.
Choice of materials matter as well. I’ve seen people use printer scraps, nuts and bolts, rocks, sand, and concrete for various applications. Some of those things were for strength and stability from additional weight.
@@timderks5960She did say expired epoxy. So I’m assuming she wasn’t going to use that for anything critical. But for supporting a printed part, she’s assuming it’s effective enough.
Those were the two tips I focused on… Super impressed with the resin idea that never occurred to me!
Oh smart idea on the epoxy filling! I haven’t thought about that. Great tips!
Damn i thought the same... I was wondering what people could do with that residue... But the temperature won't it affect the already printed part?
@ricardohnn I cast things in resin at work weekly. If you decrease the amount of curing agent, you can lower curing temps. There is a limit, though. At some point it won't fully cure, so experiment first.
You can use metal filings or powder/scrap in the resin to add weight as well. I had some tungsten powder that made it easy to add a lot of weight to small items
@@MJTVideos вместо вольфрама можно золото использовать )
A cheaper option would be Plaster of Paris(POP)
some of these clips of parts fitting together are so satisfying
All of these are great! Concise, effective, easy to understand, and well presented. Anyone who has an interest in 3D printing needs tot see this!
the epoxy filling idea is GOLD. thank you!
For that last tip on joining the parts. You may also need alignment holes for removable pins to ensure that you put them together precisely. Have some precision stainless steel pins of various sizes handy for this purpose.
A tongue and groove element to your design could also add more surface area for additional adhesion strength while also giving precise alignment.
@@andyhumphrey7601can you use tongue and grove on a cylinder?
@@kurtnelle it would need some tailoring to the specific application, but i don't see why it wouldn't.
I know this sounds weird but, I have a 3D printer to be delivered in two days and while I have a bunch of simple around the house things I know I want to print (Planters, spice racks, controller stands) the idea of designing things, especially mechanical things is ultimately the end game of what I want to do. I find it simultaneously exciting and terrifying. Watching this, despite being simple and short, shows me someone in that world having success and showing what they learned and that reassures me to a high degree! Thank you 😊
You're going to love it. It seemed overwhelming at first but after a while just second nature. I'm about to dive into CNC milling for the first time and am hoping that will also seem easy after a while, but anything new is hard and frustrating at first.
How did it go for you @Janus1000 ?
Another companion to the section printing is to generate simple technical drawings of your models and printing them on paper at 100% scale, that way you can check alignment of holes and radii of fillets without wasting any filament. This saved me a lot of time when printing enclosures for custom circuit boards
Smart.
@@LindyDesignLabAgree. I remember doing it at school when we had design and construction, as a check before the parts went into production. When you had more complex designs it was very handy. Thanks @bena2.014 for reminding me.
I bought 3d's I'm going to use 3d's! Actually cool tip I gotta try cause I hate doing 3,4 or more tries to get it right.
Awesome idea
I like it!
Wow - didn't see that coming - fill with resin for strength - kudos mate!
I like that "filling with resin" tip.
So many useful tips!! Great content!!!
This video is refreshingly helpful and to the point. Subbed!
Also for test parts, sometimes good to go to .3 (DRAFT) layer height and no infill. it saves a lot of filament over time
This is genuinely good advice! I print for work and do a few of these but you've definitely taught me a few extras 🙂
You're by far the most efficient and useful person on RUclips. 👏🏽 I wish you were my Siri on my phone.
That is the nicest complement I've ever gotten. Thank you.
These are some really good tips. Good stuff!
Those are some very nicely printed parts.
Those are really good advices
Some fantastic tips in here, well done!
....Why have I not been doing these things.... Brilliant!
Beautiful parts there!
I'm a total noob but that sounds like complete genius! None of that would have ever occurred to me, thank you!
This is awesome. Can tell you really know what you are doing. Subscribed!
After 5y of printing all excellent advices. I came to find out and systematize some of them only this year (a lot more printing with a Bambu P1S)
So much inspiration and information in one video. Subscribed!
All great advice!
These are legit good tips!
The last tip is something I just figured out on my own. I had an object with curved recesses in it so instead of printing it flat which would cause the layers to be very visible I printed two halves standing on their ends instead. Layers vanished but I do have to glue the two halves together.
Great tips!
You can also fill cavities with plaster or cement/concrete to get more weight. It might not be as pretty and adhesion to the print isn't super but it's both heavier than resin and is so much cheaper.
Great idea! Thanks.
Agreed! And I also incorporate grooves/ridges on the inside of my designs to create a 'lock' with the plaster or cement. It takes a bit longer to print, but the filler isn't going anywhere.
Ooh. You're smart af. Subscribed!
Great tips!!! Thanks!!!!
you are amazing :) Thanks for the tips!
I always do the last one screw cantilevers
Great tips! I myself use M4 bolts and nuts to join parts wherever I can. All my bolts are in the same style, I can (dis)assemble everything with the same tool every time and I know the tolerances. Threaded inserts? No, again just M4 nuts but with tighter tolerances so they have to be pulled into the hole via a screw.
Perfect, I love your system.
Great advice!! Especially just dialing in a few standard materials/filaments can be a time suck
Great tips all around, especially love 4 and 5.
love it!
Thank you!
Awesome tips!!
These are great tips!
This is fantastic stuff. Just the engineering-grade 3DP advice I was itching to find. You just earned yourself a subscriber.
Glad it was helpful, and thank you.
awesome!
This basically covers everything I also love to see others do. Especially the 'vitamins' part. Maybe you know this, but the term that has been used for more than 15 years for additional parts is vitamins. And every time I mention the term, I notice people don't understand what I mean hahaha 😂
Great video, great mind!
I had never heard that term before. Cool.
Smart and cute!
Great video! ❤❤❤
I'm here for the demo'ing of how FDM is part of a bigger picture for making serious functional parts. Nice short.
Those are good tips. Thank you ☺️
i dont know what were you builing there but that pvc pipe asambley might work as a way to store my photography backdrops
Solid tips great advice
Glad you found it helpful.
Epoxy filling is extremely useful. People try to buy the most expensive and hard material while you often just need to add epoxy
Amazing
This is clutch thank you 🙏🏻
Wowza that's a beautiful matte black! What settings & printer did you use?
It was on an ultimaker 2 printed at 215-220, no special settings. It's a very easy to print filament.
I built a control console internal assembly with that same cutting board you just showed- HA! great minds think alike. Peace.
Nice.
what filament is shown in the video, so nice looking
Proto pasta matte fiber htpla
You're awesome
For the epoxy do you find that it actually saves time and/or cost? I’ve tried hollowing parts out before and frequently it doesn’t improve print times or filament uses, as it need to spend more time on slow walls rather than quick infil. But that would certainly be stronger
It really depends on the project and if you have epoxy on hand to use up. For the project shown in the video I needed to test an entire assembly before I knew if the parts would work, so converting the test parts into solid usable parts made sense.
In general FDM plastics that aren't like glass or CF filled or anything like that cost less than epoxy, and of course are much lower labor cost.
I’m used to videos like this having one nugget of new information that isn’t just the common way to do things throughout the community, or, at least the way half do it - at war with the other half who says to never do it, but either way, 80% of what they say isn’t groundbreaking.
I have been 3D printing for 10 years.. this was straight 200IQ from start to finish. I think the only one I *have* done is splitting a print to burry a bearing. So 1 for 5 that I have haven’t done instead of 1 for 5 that I have!
- I have *seen* people use multiple materials but haven’t felt I needed it myself, so even that’s 3/5, which, to reiterate, is 3X what I’m used to.
300-400% better than most.. and I’ve been 3D printing (and watching videos on RUclips about 3D printing) for a literal decade..
/rant
Hi, nice reel, good tips and great shots. I would only give you a piece of advice when recording your voice overs, always, always use a hi-pass filter to prevent those unnerving thump low frequency bumps everytime you pronounce a t or a p.
Thank you, getting good audio is definitely not my strength. But I've changed mics and learned a bit more how to use the audio editor in my software since making this. Hopefully better in newer content going forward.
I thought about the epoxy thing myself but never tried it. For one in my big clumsy hands, bound to end up a mess everywhere. But more importantly I assumed the heat developed during the curing of epoxy might cause some warping?
#4 also makes the prints stronger because it prints solid walls instead of infill
Yes.
Yup, I learned my lesson on #3. I get too excited and print the whole thing.
i didn't catch a word of that but you have a nice voice
Ive always wanted to print in gyroid and fill the infill with epoxy. Gyroid is supposed to be one hollow void.
What material is used in this video? Cant even see the z layer lines
Proto-pasta matte fiber HTPLA.
You can combine epoxy with sand and/or small rocks. It saves lot of epoxy and can add more weight. Similar polymer concrete formula is used to make very rigid industrial machines
I hadn't thought of adding sand. That could be quite nice looking .
Does resin curing distort some printed parts though? I thought that made a lot of heat?
Depends on the resin, just follow the instructions for a given product about max fill depth to avoid excessive exotherm.
🔥wow🔥👏
Didn’t know epoxy expires, just used some 20 years old epoxy I found in my garage and it worked just fine 🙃
The stuff I have just got cloudy, still cures fine.
What printer do you use the most from the fleet you have?
How much would you estimate that the resin fill saved you?
Epoxy is so dang expensive, I can’t think of anything I’d need so strong I’d be willing to spend the money and time to do that vs printing what I need when I need it.
Maybe you can give me some tips on what to make so I have an excuse to do that lol
That bearing looks like it would outlive the structure by 10000 years under load. I'm curious about the end design. What was it about?
It's a dispenser for a heavy material spool, so the bearing had to have an inner diameter large enough to fit the spool shaft.
Dang man!
This is brilliant but there’s something wrong with the audio on the clip. Like the mike was being bumped
Yup sorry bout that, didn't catch it in editing.
How the hell aren’t 3D printing hobbyists and CNC machinists all engineers? This is literally what engineers do when doing their degree program.
do expired epoxy even set
Yup. It's just not as clear.
nice voice
Nice, more of it please. Abo is out
when you think you are ok at speaking and understanding english but then you randomly see this video
If you fill your parts with epoxy resin it will be impossible to recycle them
Why did you use epoxy to connect two parts why didn't you use super glue and is the epoxy strong enough to connect to parts like that
1. I always have lots of epoxy around.
2. My super glue is always dried up.
@LindyDesignLab haha I Know the struggle , is the epoxy like the super glue or weaker?
I don't have specific data, but it seems like in general epoxy is less brittle than super glue. I've never had an epoxy bond fail me.
@@LindyDesignLab you are doing things right. Epoxy is much stronger. It is a structural adhesive. Superglue that cure with moisture will always have the weakness of not being able to withstand moisture, like dishwasher. UV curing cyano acrylates don't have that problem.
I was impressed. Was just thinking you made the part very massive, yet the bolt holes were not reinforced.
@@herrkulor3771 Thanks for the explanation on the epoxy vs superglue! For this assembly, there is no strain on the bolt holes because it's held together with the compression of a nut on the end. Also any moving parts are on bearings, so again no wear or heat buildup from friction. The parts are also chunky to fit with the standard hardware size I use and with the spools that this dispenses.
You are super smart
Nah, just have some experience under my belt cause I'm old. Thanks though.
Plastic welding guns, that use staple like tips that you melt into your part then cut off the excess are great for out of sight spots. Greatly increasing strength and quick. Can be used in place of clamps on parts assembeled with epoxy say. Glue and clamp, heat wled them then remove the clamps. Good for bulk production runs.
Not a bad set of tips. Please get a pop filter for your mic, your P sounds really bump in my earbuds!
Apologies, don't know how I missed the audio issue in editing stage.
EXCELLENT list ⭐⭐⭐
If your 3D print shift on your bed, tighten up your belts.
Very interesting.. thank you.. and please talk slower
Shorts at the time were limited to one minute.
What is a friddy preened?
@Herbit-k4j Are you deaf?
а хорошая идея, заливать смолой. можно сделать не только полости, для этого, но и соединить их каналами и чтобы внутрь детали заливалось. условно говоря сделать тонко стенную, не извлекаемую форму для заливки
If your plastic part doesn't fit, put it in the freezer.
It's shameful that with all the 3dp content out there this is the first time I have seen anyone talk about these.
Great video. I always wonder why people print parts that are readily available, cheap and far superior to prints. I mean profiles, PVC pipes, metal of plastic sheet. Combine and only print what you really need. Also, get a 150 euro CNC hobby machine and combine printing with CNC.
youtube tip btw, get a pop filter lol
Ok you save time printing but need to wait 24/48h for the resin to harden, where's the logic in that, plus you loose one of the main benefits of printing, not wasting material on an object being solid
Wtf? Filling the filament safe with epoxy, then you can print it fully. Thats dumb
Can you talk any faster?, i could almost understand what you were saying...
Lotstosayandyoutubeonlyallowsmeonemiuteforshortsimakethemostofit
Such basic stuff