Australia is the only place that makes a stiff 40mm spring lift for my 2008 Toyota Highlander (Kluger) so I got shafted when I paid $650 AUD ($415 USD) and shipping when I can get complete strut assemblies for less than that in the states! Nah King Springs Rock!!!
I own Chester and the Fooker pedals. My Fookers bearings are actually much smoother than the Chester's. I like that if a composite pedal hits something there is some give. In my mind, they can potentially be more forgiving on certain pedal strikes.
I run the Chester's on both my MTBs and when they need fixing I will probably replace them with Chester's again $50 isn't too bad and it supports race face!
Great point man! And like I said in the video, raceface is a company worth supporting and I will be buying them from now on. I've done my tests and . need to continue to support great companies in the industry.
does race face support you are they paying you? I buy what is good not because of a brand. race face needs competition otherwise they can charge whatever they want
@@DailyMTBRider blinded by the light, horse blinders arent meant for humans! Just because you support a great company doesn't mean that it's the only one, there could be a way better one out there that needs support too.
We have Chesters on 5 bikes. My husband noticed that the most recently purchased pair didn't spin as freely as the others. One pedal was disassembled and re-greased and still didn't spin well. So, he decided to cut it open with a milling machine to see what was inside. The pedal contained a plastic bushing at the crank side of the pedal and a sealed ball bearing at the outside end. (Picture available on request.) The Fookers give the option of 2 sealed ball bearings at the crank and one sealed ball bearing on the outside for $21 or a needle bearing at the crank and sealed ball bearing on the outside for $25. We've ordered two pairs of Fookers. I'll let you know if he slices one of them open, since we're never really sure what we are going to get from Amazon. 😄
i've been running a set of those Fooker knockoffs for 2 years. i had to replace a couple pins because the threads stripped out on little bolts used for pins. other than that they've been fine. still spin nice and smooth.
I love the fact that the knock-off pedals on Amazon can be bought with the subscribe option - organize automatic delivery of a new set every 6 or 12 months!! 😂
That's hilarious, do they have a button for them haha remember those dumb things, click the button in your bathroom when you've run out of toilet paper for some more Charmin lol
I have been running the fooker’s on both my bikes for a couple of years now and they are great, no problems, pins are still straight, and the bearings are still good. 10/10 recommend if you are trying to save money.
I have bought similar ones for my winter bike and I really like them. I thought this would be a solution for a few months, but after half a year of commuting, I have no problems at all with them.
I have ridden the chester/fookers and I agree that for larger feet the fookers are a bit small. another important factor is pin placement, on the fookers/chesters the pins are farther from the edges of the pedals. this means that they do not grip as well if you foot is hanging off the pedal, since your weight will be on the outside edge where on higher end pedals the pins are on the outside. Also I have had a set of Kona wah wah 2 composites and loved the feel, but I recently broke them. I am going to go for some sam hill nukeproof pedals next.
I know I am way late to the conversation. But, I had to say, I bought a set of no name (Rock Bros.) composite pedals thru Amazon that also had similar features to the more expensive Race Face options. Turns out Rock Bros is a Czech bike accessories company. I have been riding with these pedals for several months and they have performed nicely. Why pay name brand prices?
I've got Raceface Evo's on my hard tail and DMR V12 on my squish. Both sets have done similar miles but the full squish maybe getting more knocks due to terrain and lower BB The plastic pedals are much lighter and stay the same colour when scratched, sharp gouges can be knifed smooth. The pins also screw in from the back so when knackered simply cut them flush at the nut and unscrew then replace with a standard allen bolt. Some of the screws are ground down a bit, but none are bent or need replacing. As it's yellow right through they still look pretty good. The DMRs are scratched to hell with the grooves being rough and sharp, the area under the foot is now primer/silver and I've broken two pins which I can't remove as that also damages the hex. They look knackered. My feet feel more planted on the Evo's with a readjust being quite tricky, this is good and bad as sometimes you need a quick wiggle and this can take several attempts to get right, not so bad on my HT as I ride it much slower these days and leave rough trails to the squish. I don't tend to slip on the DMR's but that'll change if I loose more pins. I've taken apart the Evo's once for a clean and regrease, the DMR's haven't required it. I'm tempted to replace the DMR's with evo or chesters however once those pins are too bad.
Literally the reason why I bought them lmao. I'm sorry but not everyone can just get a free bike from diamondback every year and get free components from random af companies. Cheapest the way to go for me.
When I was all about the bling, I paid over $200 for some HT Magnesium flat pedals. The pedal platform itself literally came apart after about a year of riding. So next I bought the same pedals in aluminum with titanium spindles, which were still expensive but much less than the magnesium version. They lasted longer but the rebuild kit was costly and required special tools. At the recommendation of my LBS, I've been running the Spank Spike pedals on both my bikes and love them. Definitely a weight penalty compared to the HTs but still with a slim 12mm profile.
But if your pedals are plastic then that means that there's that much more plastic not in the ocean. So shouldn't you buy plastic pedals to save the turtles? 😅🤨🤔
Fooker and Rock Bro’s. are cheap and durable and work really well. I have Chester’s as well but it’s hard to tell a lot of difference. I much prefer composite over Aluminum though .
I've been buying Chinese pedals for the last few years. Fraction of the cost, they are mostly as good as the expensive ones, you can get aluminum ones for a few more $, and you can even get titanium axles. No brainer, paying 50, 100, or more for pedals is just dumb.
I have been running the Fookers for several months, and they are holding up fine. I have Chesters on other bikes and there is almost no fookin' difference except price!
Good, solid, no-nonsense information here. I have the same views about cassettes and a few other parts. I quit using expensive name brand cassettes a long time ago and haven't looked back. The high prices just aren't worth it with the cheaper alternatives that are available which perform equally as well and last just as long.
@Anas Jawad yup. There are still many instances where it definitely costs more (sometimes a lot more) to get the expected or desired level of quality, performance, and durability but there are probably just as many examples where this is not the case. I've also seen a lot of instances where the more expensive, name brand product was actually INFERIOR to a lesser known, lower cost version of the same product. It really all depends on the specific product.
I had a buddy Jurgen Beneke a former World Cup Downhiller started a small business called Das Hanger which was a bike storage system. He was doing them all out of his garage full time and eventually started selling them on Amazon. It was doing really well and then his sales nearly stopped, when he did some research he learned that someone was selling a cheap China knock offs for half the price. He nearly went out of business because Amazon was unresponsive to his complaints, and trying to stop a company in China from stealing your ideas is nearly impossible if you're a small brand. It eventually got handled but I wouldn't go out of my way to support these companies and practices.
I used chesters for my first year of riding and switched last year to larger pedals (pedaling innovations) and I can not go back to using a smaller pedal like the chester. Great pedal but if you have bigger feet like you said, you probably want something bigger.
I love my Fookers! Rode them all last season without any issues and i'm about to order a new pair for this coming season. Not because of wear, but for a change in color. Have to pay attention though, as there are two different sets with different bearing types. Most folks seem to be recommending the needle bearing type. There's another brand out there doing the same thing, "Rock Bros" , but looks like there tends to be more issues/mixed reviews with those. To be fair though, i'm fairly budget conscious and these were my first pair of pedals I've ever purchased. So I don't really have a basis for comparison other than they're way better than the cheapo free stock pedals. But hey, if you want something Chester-esque but need to save a few bucks, these are pretty solid. I pair these with my Giro Jacket shoes and my '19 Timberjack SLX
I just started MTB and I bought the fookers immediately after buying my bike way before I saw this and I can honestly say the they are great and I’ve had no problems with them the only issue I’ve run into is that they’re so grippy it’s difficult to readjust my foot sometimes lol
I debated whether to buy the knockoffs or Crank Brothers Stamp 3. I went with the real thing for the reason you stated here. I don’t want to risk breaking off the spindle that would lead to major injuries.
@@DailyMTBRider As was I! The guys at my local shop said the factories use the same molds and plastic just rebrand it idk if that is true or not but seems reasonable.
I bought the Rock Bros off Amazon for 20$, stay away from them. 1 trip to bentonville and they are garbage. Mine are definitely bent and the bearings are making noise.
For 90% of riders composite pedals make more sense, but for me or beginners, pro athletes and such aluminium with tall pins is the way to go. I've used both, started breaking composites (I do aggressive enduro on rocky Mountains) so I bought 30 Buck aluminum haibike ebike pedals and they have lasted a year of abuse, still work, just bent the left one and that are scratched and broke a pin so it is time for another pair. Crank brothers stamp 2 look good for the price. Great video as always:) happy trails!
i rode composite wah wah 2 for about a year before they cracked in half. i really loved the shape and size of the pedal and i will buy them again. i do a lot of techy climbs and my pedals strike a lot! i should switch to aluminum but i am not sure if they can handle all the abuse i give them. bottom line i just plan on replacing pedals every season... so cheap is good.
I've ridden the same $21 amazon composite pedals for 3 years in mud, snow, sand, rail trail grit, salt from being installed on road bikes, nasty pedal strikes on logs, ramps and rocks you name it.. they won't die. They don't even squeak or wobble. Never been maintained because I figured when they go I'll toss them and get new ones. I'm 250lb and wear a size 12 shoe and have no problem with grip or foot placement. The only thing I've done is get even longer replacement pins and installed them on the front row or as needed for even more grip..
I bought very nice aluminium pedals with sealed bearings, they cost something like 70 dollars. They were neally nice and felt really good, but i noticed that they losed the color very quickly. Pedals that are made of plastic seems to keep the colour no matter what.
My $ 20 composite pedals are 2 years old with allot of miles on them and spin freely . My sons $ 120 flat pedals do not spin freely and have some resistance . I have had plenty of pedal strikes and sometimes that can restrict the pedal flow but a tap on the pedal from the opposite side usually restores that free spin
Fookers for Chesters, IMRiders for Nukeproof. I'm 260lbs and they both hold up just fine to my abuse. However, I've plunked the money down on Catalyst pedals from Pedaling Innovations and I'm not going back. Game changers.
Thanks for talking about the bearings. None of the other fooker reviews on u tube even mention the bearings. You didnt say what kind they are, but you did talk about them, and you did mention the ridiculous cost of rebuild kits. Personally i miss rebuildable ball bearing cup and cone pedals, no special tools needed and you could keep them buttery smooth... but in todays throwaway culture....
I put fooker pedals on my bike after I saw Jake, the backyard shredder, using them. My little brother got them for his bike, I recently got Chesters, which my LBS could not tell the difference! I have not used the Chesters that much though since I've been riding clipped in for the past few months.
I’ve been riding composite ht hippy killers for a season with no issues. I’ve hit rocks and roots with them with no cracks at all. I also had a pair of chesters that I had hit on roots with no real damage. I only ride the ht pedals now because I like the thinner design and wider footprint
@ 3:20 - My question answered. I wear U.S. size 12, EU size 48. Will have to keep that in mind if trying pinned pedals. I generally ride clipless pedals. Mostly a roadie (ducks!).
I run Origin8 Vex pedals, quite similar to the Chester, and also cost $50, they have worked very well. Got them at the same LBS I got my bike at, and they sell a ton of them and everyone seems happy with them.
I've been riding these fooker pedals for nearly a year and I've had plenty of rock strikes and other then some small scuffs and scratches they're totally fine
The only reason to get branded pedals is for cool points. At the end of the day pedals are pedals, and specially in the case of nylon/ composite pedals, they are likely bought in bulk from a random Chinese factory by any company to stamp their name on it.
Iv had the Fooker pedals before and didn’t have good luck with them. The bearings went bad within 100 miles and were flopping around trying to get out of the woods. Iv put over 800 miles on the Chester pedals and they are still going. I’ll spend the extra money on the Chester instead of being annoyed in the woods when the cheap ones start to fall apart.
bought a couple of cheap fancy looking Chinese pedals that fell apart in no time, got some decent aluminum ones that are pretty good but best I have for grip are the super cheap nukeproof neutron composites,cost about £25 here in the UK and been running them for two years without any issues.
Going to give the needle bearing version a shot! Some have said they are notchy but should hopefully hold up longer than reg sealed bearings. Thanks for the video, had no idea they existed! Perfect for the new bike
I have been using odyssey twist bmx pedals. I figured a bmx rider can bash and grind on these pedals so they should hold up to my riding and they sure have the past 5 years. Had 2 sets on my main bike and still on the first set on my ride around town xc bike. Only replaced my main bike pedals because pins are plastic and tend to wear out on pedal strikes.
Fooker also makes aluminum pedals. Im a size 12 foot and their aluminum pedals look just like the Konas in the video. I have been riding these pedals for a month and I love them.
I use alloy as they just hold up better with rock strikes, I used to have a cheap plastic set but broke one with several rock strikes. But my alloy set hold up way better, I gave them to my friend who was using plastic so he could compare. He crashed and bent his entire crank but only scratched the alloy ones. And I do actualy feel the cheaper sets bend, but only on big drops to flat from 1.5 meters and up, but those do hurt my ankles more then my peddles
Thanks for these budget components review videos. Not everyone can afford the brand name stuff and it's great to know that these are good. In fact I'm buying a pair to help me develop my still (I currently ride clipless)
I've used Fookers quite a bit...they just last. I actually started with Fookers, felt kinda foolish and spend the money on Chesters only to find out they were nearly identical and went back to Fookers. Recently I ordered the knock off version of One Up plastic pedals since they are a bit larger and frankly I like them also. So there is that. Good review thanks as always
Question: What do you do about those very long and sharp pins in them? I was just about to order a set when I read many reviews of how these TEAR into your legs. I already have the problem of the occasional scrape from pedals that don't have those just walking with it and a lot more when trying to get it up my steps. I'd really love to give these a go but I rant don't want the constant leg slashings. Any tips?
I had some cheap peddles on the gravel ride, but my mtb didnt come with peddles & went with the name I've seen all over youtube, the Chesters. It also happened to be the cheapest peddles the shop carries.
I bought two sets of Raceface Chester's, and both sets started to fail at the bearings. The second set never felt right from the beginning, one of the bearings was clicky from day one. It eventually completely failed and the bearings split apart on a light trail and the pedal slid off the spindle and had catastrophic failure. I paid $50 for those. I decided to try the newer designed Fooker brand with needle bearings for $25 and figured it couldn't be any worse than the Raceface brand. Boy what a better quality set for half the price! The updated Fookers just feel better, spin more smoothly, and have zero play. They have been improved since this video was made. Honestly, they are now built better than the Chester's and will be my new go to pedal for EMTB riding. They also come with spare pins and shims as a courtesy. The Raceface warranty requires you to fill out a form and give your CC number so they can charge you. Skip them and go Fooker.
Yep, I recently brought some stamp 1 pedals, and the first thing I did was replace the stock bearing with a higher quality one, and I popped the seal off the new bearing and packed it full of grease, it was pretty dry, I think these bearings come with small amounts of grease because they're designed to spin at very high rpm, like 10,000 rpm and too much grease at those rpm can heat up the grease which can expand and damage the seals, but a mtb pedal bearing would probably only spin at around 60rpm, I also replaced the bushing with a needle roller bearing, you can easily fix these cheaper pedals just by putting some decent quality bearings in them.
Hard to tell for sure, but I think there are copies of those aluminum pedals out there as well. Wonder if it's possible to buy the knockoffs, then refurbish them with an official rebuild kit once the bearings wear out?
I did for a couple rides and they broke on roots from 2 strikes. I have Crank Bros on another bike that have lasted through many rock strikes, so I’ll not be buying Rock Bros again. I replaced the rock bros with Fooker aluminum. $27. So far, so good.
Been running the knockoffs for 2 years... nada problems 👍 Clean and regrease bearing races and threads every 6 months. Easy peasy, no cost maintenance.
I've been using the fooker for about a year, hard use and some pedal strokes, and never had any issues until now. But been thinking on trying aluminum.
a couple of weeks i was looking at the fookers but it seems like now they dont sell them anymore cuz i cant find them anywhere where they were before altho the chesters have gone down in price
So I just snapped my spindle on the Kona wah wah 2. The bearing case also cracked. I debated getting the spindle bolt... but it's going to probably fail again... not sure what to do because I loved these wah wah 2s
The best thing I like about plastic pedals is that I don't worry to smash them. For the price of one set of alu pedals I can buy 4-6 sets of quite good plastics, and I'm sure that 5 plastic pairs with live much longer than one alu pair.
Josh!!! Tyvm for this video. I'm finally getting my MTB ready for some riding and getting it geared up for a look I like. I've got a Giant Anthem X 29er 2013. Mostly black with white and yellow. I like the aluminum pedals, but the name brands are out of my price range. I've seen the Fooker and a few other off brands. Its good to know that the off brand is a good quality alternative. I still want the aluminum pedals, but I'll wait. Ty for all the info. Peace out.
I run Sixpack Vegas composite pedals and they do well! I ran them for two years until I had to replace them. They have a great range of colours and they are cheap.
I use Imrider peddles. They are also Chester knock offs, probably the same peddle as the Fooker but sold under another name, and they are just fine. I also have a pair of Chester's and thus far I really can't tell a difference between them.
i bought some expansive ($60) pedals with those screws in it and i almost fall everytime i stop, my foot being stuck in it. i just ordered some sandpaper covered pedals. $30, cheap one are 2 to 5.
I had a pair of those, and one was coming off the spindle lots of play. Amazon allowed me to return. Maybe it was a fluke. I was kind of worried about getting another pair after that. Paranoid if it wasn't a cromoly spindle, it could break and slash my leg or something. I ended up with a pair of one-up composite and have had over a year now. I feel like composite is a little less harsh on pedal strikes vs aluminum.
I have the Fookers and they have been a good pedal. I wear a size 12 shoe and found them a little on the small side so I tried the Crank Broa Stamp 1 in large. They were twice the price and didn’t grip as well. I just ordered a set of One Ip Comp pedals and hoping they fit better and grip as well as the Fookers.
Awesome vid man.... so hard to find great vids and cool people doing them... U got both covered buddy .. Thanx so much for doing all these vids keep up the great job !!!!!!
I have large feet - do those Konas offer the best surface area that you’ve tried? I have the CrankBros Stamp 7 Larges - which we awesome feeling but did not hold up well at all. Currently running a knockoff aluminum pedal but foot moves around more than the Stamp 7s
As a longborder bearing grease and proper cleaning can make the cheapest of bearings butter I just 2 min of cleaning and greasing on a bike thiers alot more cleaning and greasing I like to do
A friend of mine snapped a pair of amazon Chinese knock off pedals (not Fookers) casing a jump hard. He finally took my advice on one up composite pedals and has used them for years with no issues! Let me know if those Fookers hold up to your rad riding mate!
Pin placement on any pedal is determined on your shin.
exactly. Also by how many scars you have on your shin and calve. I swear every time i ride i have a new one from mine.
Haha so true - the marks of a bad pedal are everywhere!
Trust me I know that feeling 10 stitches in my leg right now because of my pedals
I have ridden platforms since childhood. No scars.
Remember the rider is the significant component.
Jæ Š same here, almost, I did it once in childhood that was enough
Amazon Australia has these fookers priced the same as the chesters. we always get shafted!
Australia is the only place that makes a stiff 40mm spring lift for my 2008 Toyota Highlander (Kluger) so I got shafted when I paid $650 AUD ($415 USD) and shipping when I can get complete strut assemblies for less than that in the states! Nah King Springs Rock!!!
Check aliexpress
Amazon has the fookers priced as 35 now
Yeah expensive here in UK on Amazon to
lol
:(
I own Chester and the Fooker pedals. My Fookers bearings are actually much smoother than the Chester's. I like that if a composite pedal hits something there is some give. In my mind, they can potentially be more forgiving on certain pedal strikes.
Do they have the same number of bearings?
@phil5073 Yes
@@carloswright thank you
I run the Chester's on both my MTBs and when they need fixing I will probably replace them with Chester's again $50 isn't too bad and it supports race face!
Great point man! And like I said in the video, raceface is a company worth supporting and I will be buying them from now on. I've done my tests and . need to continue to support great companies in the industry.
does race face support you are they paying you? I buy what is good not because of a brand. race face needs competition otherwise they can charge whatever they want
@@DailyMTBRider blinded by the light, horse blinders arent meant for humans! Just because you support a great company doesn't mean that it's the only one, there could be a way better one out there that needs support too.
David Jenkins agree with you
My Crank Bros were $50 also. I actually want alloy and will get a set soon.
We have Chesters on 5 bikes. My husband noticed that the most recently purchased pair didn't spin as freely as the others. One pedal was disassembled and re-greased and still didn't spin well. So, he decided to cut it open with a milling machine to see what was inside. The pedal contained a plastic bushing at the crank side of the pedal and a sealed ball bearing at the outside end. (Picture available on request.) The Fookers give the option of 2 sealed ball bearings at the crank and one sealed ball bearing on the outside for $21 or a needle bearing at the crank and sealed ball bearing on the outside for $25. We've ordered two pairs of Fookers. I'll let you know if he slices one of them open, since we're never really sure what we are going to get from Amazon. 😄
i've been running a set of those Fooker knockoffs for 2 years. i had to replace a couple pins because the threads stripped out on little bolts used for pins. other than that they've been fine. still spin nice and smooth.
I love the fact that the knock-off pedals on Amazon can be bought with the subscribe option - organize automatic delivery of a new set every 6 or 12 months!! 😂
That's hilarious, do they have a button for them haha remember those dumb things, click the button in your bathroom when you've run out of toilet paper for some more Charmin lol
I have been running the fooker’s on both my bikes for a couple of years now and they are great, no problems, pins are still straight, and the bearings are still good. 10/10 recommend if you are trying to save money.
I have bought similar ones for my winter bike and I really like them. I thought this would be a solution for a few months, but after half a year of commuting, I have no problems at all with them.
I have ridden the chester/fookers and I agree that for larger feet the fookers are a bit small. another important factor is pin placement, on the fookers/chesters the pins are farther from the edges of the pedals. this means that they do not grip as well if you foot is hanging off the pedal, since your weight will be on the outside edge where on higher end pedals the pins are on the outside. Also I have had a set of Kona wah wah 2 composites and loved the feel, but I recently broke them. I am going to go for some sam hill nukeproof pedals next.
I know I am way late to the conversation. But, I had to say, I bought a set of no name (Rock Bros.) composite pedals thru Amazon that also had similar features to the more expensive Race Face options. Turns out Rock Bros is a Czech bike accessories company. I have been riding with these pedals for several months and they have performed nicely. Why pay name brand prices?
OneUp Comps are my favorite pedals, plus they´re large enough for my size 11.5 shoes
i like the feel of the one ups, but cracked 2 of them.
@@MattPayne1 I loved them but shattered one also, wont risk again
I have the knock off rockbros (have their sunglasses to). Both have been a pleasant surprise after a season of use.
If I have size 8 oneup will be ok ?
I've got Raceface Evo's on my hard tail and DMR V12 on my squish.
Both sets have done similar miles but the full squish maybe getting more knocks due to terrain and lower BB
The plastic pedals are much lighter and stay the same colour when scratched, sharp gouges can be knifed smooth.
The pins also screw in from the back so when knackered simply cut them flush at the nut and unscrew then replace with a standard allen bolt.
Some of the screws are ground down a bit, but none are bent or need replacing. As it's yellow right through they still look pretty good.
The DMRs are scratched to hell with the grooves being rough and sharp, the area under the foot is now primer/silver and I've broken two pins which I can't remove as that also damages the hex.
They look knackered.
My feet feel more planted on the Evo's with a readjust being quite tricky, this is good and bad as sometimes you need a quick wiggle and this can take several attempts to get right, not so bad on my HT as I ride it much slower these days and leave rough trails to the squish.
I don't tend to slip on the DMR's but that'll change if I loose more pins.
I've taken apart the Evo's once for a clean and regrease, the DMR's haven't required it.
I'm tempted to replace the DMR's with evo or chesters however once those pins are too bad.
What type of riding would you say you do?
@@xnirvanaXnevermindx poor mostly
@@cornishcactus like, you ride poorly? lol I sure feel that way but I meant discipline
@@xnirvanaXnevermindx oh non of that esp if I pass a cake shop.
Mostly trail, our group rides would be DownCountry.
Seth rly went off on these pedals tho…
Literally the reason why I bought them lmao. I'm sorry but not everyone can just get a free bike from diamondback every year and get free components from random af companies. Cheapest the way to go for me.
@@Pwn3dbyth3n00b triggered?
@@Pwn3dbyth3n00b But if you are able to afford a bike you are able to afford pedals that support the industry, or don't watch DH races
When I was all about the bling, I paid over $200 for some HT Magnesium flat pedals. The pedal platform itself literally came apart after about a year of riding. So next I bought the same pedals in aluminum with titanium spindles, which were still expensive but much less than the magnesium version. They lasted longer but the rebuild kit was costly and required special tools. At the recommendation of my LBS, I've been running the Spank Spike pedals on both my bikes and love them. Definitely a weight penalty compared to the HTs but still with a slim 12mm profile.
Save the turtles and buy Aluminium 😂
If it actually saved them I would 😂
@@DailyMTBRider 😂😂
But if your pedals are plastic then that means that there's that much more plastic not in the ocean. So shouldn't you buy plastic pedals to save the turtles? 😅🤨🤔
@@Likethetacosauce i dont tink that the plastik is ricickled
Turtles only ride aluminum.
Gotta love the Chinese, i’m sure their made in the same factory. I’ll stay with oneups 🤘🤘
JF fricking crazy, they just steal left and right. If you can only find it on amazon or eBay you know it’s pirated
They look crude compared to the real ones.
@@stevek8829 you look crude so zip it
Fooker and Rock Bro’s. are cheap and durable and work really well. I have Chester’s as well but it’s hard to tell a lot of difference. I much prefer composite over Aluminum though .
Rock Bro's also makes good cheap grips which not only look good but are comfortable and durable as well...love em!
I ride Rock Bro pedals. I can’t tell the difference between Crank Bro or One Up
Just got the rock bro ones! Super happy with the purchase. I've used them on 4 rides so far!
I've been buying Chinese pedals for the last few years. Fraction of the cost, they are mostly as good as the expensive ones, you can get aluminum ones for a few more $, and you can even get titanium axles. No brainer, paying 50, 100, or more for pedals is just dumb.
Facts
I have been running the Fookers for several months, and they are holding up fine. I have Chesters on other bikes and there is almost no fookin' difference except price!
Good, solid, no-nonsense information here. I have the same views about cassettes and a few other parts. I quit using expensive name brand cassettes a long time ago and haven't looked back. The high prices just aren't worth it with the cheaper alternatives that are available which perform equally as well and last just as long.
@Anas Jawad yup. There are still many instances where it definitely costs more (sometimes a lot more) to get the expected or desired level of quality, performance, and durability but there are probably just as many examples where this is not the case. I've also seen a lot of instances where the more expensive, name brand product was actually INFERIOR to a lesser known, lower cost version of the same product. It really all depends on the specific product.
I had a buddy Jurgen Beneke a former World Cup Downhiller started a small business called Das Hanger which was a bike storage system. He was doing them all out of his garage full time and eventually started selling them on Amazon. It was doing really well and then his sales nearly stopped, when he did some research he learned that someone was selling a cheap China knock offs for half the price. He nearly went out of business because Amazon was unresponsive to his complaints, and trying to stop a company in China from stealing your ideas is nearly impossible if you're a small brand. It eventually got handled but I wouldn't go out of my way to support these companies and practices.
I just keep it simple and run what feels comfortable, odyssey twisted pc
Fooker makes a good aluminum pedal too
I used chesters for my first year of riding and switched last year to larger pedals (pedaling innovations) and I can not go back to using a smaller pedal like the chester. Great pedal but if you have bigger feet like you said, you probably want something bigger.
I love my Fookers! Rode them all last season without any issues and i'm about to order a new pair for this coming season. Not because of wear, but for a change in color. Have to pay attention though, as there are two different sets with different bearing types. Most folks seem to be recommending the needle bearing type. There's another brand out there doing the same thing, "Rock Bros" , but looks like there tends to be more issues/mixed reviews with those. To be fair though, i'm fairly budget conscious and these were my first pair of pedals I've ever purchased. So I don't really have a basis for comparison other than they're way better than the cheapo free stock pedals. But hey, if you want something Chester-esque but need to save a few bucks, these are pretty solid. I pair these with my Giro Jacket shoes and my '19 Timberjack SLX
I just started MTB and I bought the fookers immediately after buying my bike way before I saw this and I can honestly say the they are great and I’ve had no problems with them the only issue I’ve run into is that they’re so grippy it’s difficult to readjust my foot sometimes lol
I love them fookers!
Ive had two sets of fookers break off of the spindle, I don't buy them anymore.
Lies
I debated whether to buy the knockoffs or Crank Brothers Stamp 3. I went with the real thing for the reason you stated here. I don’t want to risk breaking off the spindle that would lead to major injuries.
I have had a pair of mosh aluminium flat pedals for 18 years. Money well spent.
Fookers are the way to go. Had them on my bike for awhile now and they are tough as nails.
It's surprising how well they work!
@@DailyMTBRider As was I! The guys at my local shop said the factories use the same molds and plastic just rebrand it idk if that is true or not but seems reasonable.
I bought the Rock Bros off Amazon for 20$, stay away from them. 1 trip to bentonville and they are garbage. Mine are definitely bent and the bearings are making noise.
Fookers for the WIN !!!!
And I used them for 2 years now !
For 90% of riders composite pedals make more sense, but for me or beginners, pro athletes and such aluminium with tall pins is the way to go. I've used both, started breaking composites (I do aggressive enduro on rocky Mountains) so I bought 30 Buck aluminum haibike ebike pedals and they have lasted a year of abuse, still work, just bent the left one and that are scratched and broke a pin so it is time for another pair. Crank brothers stamp 2 look good for the price. Great video as always:) happy trails!
i rode composite wah wah 2 for about a year before they cracked in half. i really loved the shape and size of the pedal and i will buy them again. i do a lot of techy climbs and my pedals strike a lot! i should switch to aluminum but i am not sure if they can handle all the abuse i give them. bottom line i just plan on replacing pedals every season... so cheap is good.
So I've actually broke 2 pairs of the Wah Wah composites and 1 pair of the alloys - I didn't want to bash them in my video, but man they're faulty!
Daily MTB Rider good to know! i thought it was just me. 🙃
I've ridden the same $21 amazon composite pedals for 3 years in mud, snow, sand, rail trail grit, salt from being installed on road bikes, nasty pedal strikes on logs, ramps and rocks you name it.. they won't die. They don't even squeak or wobble. Never been maintained because I figured when they go I'll toss them and get new ones.
I'm 250lb and wear a size 12 shoe and have no problem with grip or foot placement. The only thing I've done is get even longer replacement pins and installed them on the front row or as needed for even more grip..
I bought very nice aluminium pedals with sealed bearings, they cost something like 70 dollars. They were neally nice and felt really good, but i noticed that they losed the color very quickly. Pedals that are made of plastic seems to keep the colour no matter what.
That is one down side to aluminium and i've noticed the same thing my friend!
My $ 20 composite pedals are 2 years old with allot of miles on them and spin freely . My sons $ 120 flat pedals do not spin freely and have some resistance . I have had plenty of pedal strikes and sometimes that can restrict the pedal flow but a tap on the pedal from the opposite side usually restores that free spin
I got the 3 bearings fookers about a year ago and they are still in great shape... I definitely will get them again
Let's bloomin' talk about it.
Music to a garage videos ears!
What's a guy gotta do to get pinned round here🤔
Fookers for Chesters, IMRiders for Nukeproof. I'm 260lbs and they both hold up just fine to my abuse. However, I've plunked the money down on Catalyst pedals from Pedaling Innovations and I'm not going back. Game changers.
I've heard great things about them man! Still have tried the pedal innovations but want to soon!
Thanks for talking about the bearings. None of the other fooker reviews on u tube even mention the bearings. You didnt say what kind they are, but you did talk about them, and you did mention the ridiculous cost of rebuild kits.
Personally i miss rebuildable ball bearing cup and cone pedals, no special tools needed and you could keep them buttery smooth... but in todays throwaway culture....
I put fooker pedals on my bike after I saw Jake, the backyard shredder, using them. My little brother got them for his bike, I recently got Chesters, which my LBS could not tell the difference! I have not used the Chesters that much though since I've been riding clipped in for the past few months.
I’ve been riding composite ht hippy killers for a season with no issues. I’ve hit rocks and roots with them with no cracks at all. I also had a pair of chesters that I had hit on roots with no real damage. I only ride the ht pedals now because I like the thinner design and wider footprint
@ 3:20 - My question answered. I wear U.S. size 12, EU size 48. Will have to keep that in mind if trying pinned pedals. I generally ride clipless pedals. Mostly a roadie (ducks!).
I bought the aluminium fookers for my bike and took it to the DH park and they ran smoooooth. Best pedals ive ever rode.
🤙🏻🤙🏻
I run Origin8 Vex pedals, quite similar to the Chester, and also cost $50, they have worked very well. Got them at the same LBS I got my bike at, and they sell a ton of them and everyone seems happy with them.
I have them on my hard-tail and love them so much I ordered a set for the gravel bike I just bought!
I've been riding these fooker pedals for nearly a year and I've had plenty of rock strikes and other then some small scuffs and scratches they're totally fine
Also I wear Van's sk8 highs 10 1/12 and they work great
I don't know about vans over 5-10 shoes - but I have heard people love them!
@@DailyMTBRider yeah I'm nearly 15 so still growing and dont have the budget to spend that much on shoes :/
I wear size 13 shoes and have used Chesters for the last 2 years with zero issues. They support my shoe size just fine. No complaints.
I love my little fookers! Use ‘em on my BMX and my MTB. Bike park, bunny hops and pedal strikes and still going strong.
Pin placement, weight and reliability are factors I look at. My Tenet pedals came with one free rebuild. I think I just paid to mail them out.
And Tenet is a sweet brand! Those are one pair I'd love to try!
The only reason to get branded pedals is for cool points. At the end of the day pedals are pedals, and specially in the case of nylon/ composite pedals, they are likely bought in bulk from a random Chinese factory by any company to stamp their name on it.
Chester all the way and I'm a size 12 shoe and they feel just right!
another composite advantage is that they don't lose color when they get scratched and banged up :)
Iv had the Fooker pedals before and didn’t have good luck with them. The bearings went bad within 100 miles and were flopping around trying to get out of the woods. Iv put over 800 miles on the Chester pedals and they are still going. I’ll spend the extra money on the Chester instead of being annoyed in the woods when the cheap ones start to fall apart.
bought a couple of cheap fancy looking Chinese pedals that fell apart in no time, got some decent aluminum ones that are pretty good but best I have for grip are the super cheap nukeproof neutron composites,cost about £25 here in the UK and been running them for two years without any issues.
Going to give the needle bearing version a shot! Some have said they are notchy but should hopefully hold up longer than reg sealed bearings. Thanks for the video, had no idea they existed! Perfect for the new bike
I have been using odyssey twist bmx pedals. I figured a bmx rider can bash and grind on these pedals so they should hold up to my riding and they sure have the past 5 years. Had 2 sets on my main bike and still on the first set on my ride around town xc bike. Only replaced my main bike pedals because pins are plastic and tend to wear out on pedal strikes.
Fooker also makes aluminum pedals. Im a size 12 foot and their aluminum pedals look just like the Konas in the video. I have been riding these pedals for a month and I love them.
I use alloy as they just hold up better with rock strikes, I used to have a cheap plastic set but broke one with several rock strikes. But my alloy set hold up way better, I gave them to my friend who was using plastic so he could compare. He crashed and bent his entire crank but only scratched the alloy ones. And I do actualy feel the cheaper sets bend, but only on big drops to flat from 1.5 meters and up, but those do hurt my ankles more then my peddles
Normally uses raceface, got fookers in red to color match my bike. Works the same.
Buy the best pedal (gear) you can afford. I don't know what kind I have but I bought them at my local bike shop. I love them!
For years my pedals were loose bearing dirt cheap ones, they works well i like how i can buy replacement bearing everywhere downside its pretty thick.
Thanks for these budget components review videos. Not everyone can afford the brand name stuff and it's great to know that these are good. In fact I'm buying a pair to help me develop my still (I currently ride clipless)
it will just a guy buying from china and rebranding them for amazon sales
@@WilliamCronin huh? What a weirdo😂
I've used Fookers quite a bit...they just last. I actually started with Fookers, felt kinda foolish and spend the money on Chesters only to find out they were nearly identical and went back to Fookers. Recently I ordered the knock off version of One Up plastic pedals since they are a bit larger and frankly I like them also. So there is that. Good review thanks as always
I clicked on the wrong video! I was looking for cheap effect pedals! Lol!
Question: What do you do about those very long and sharp pins in them? I was just about to order a set when I read many reviews of how these TEAR into your legs. I already have the problem of the occasional scrape from pedals that don't have those just walking with it and a lot more when trying to get it up my steps. I'd really love to give these a go but I rant don't want the constant leg slashings. Any tips?
I had some cheap peddles on the gravel ride, but my mtb didnt come with peddles & went with the name I've seen all over youtube, the Chesters. It also happened to be the cheapest peddles the shop carries.
I bought two sets of Raceface Chester's, and both sets started to fail at the bearings. The second set never felt right from the beginning, one of the bearings was clicky from day one. It eventually completely failed and the bearings split apart on a light trail and the pedal slid off the spindle and had catastrophic failure. I paid $50 for those. I decided to try the newer designed Fooker brand with needle bearings for $25 and figured it couldn't be any worse than the Raceface brand. Boy what a better quality set for half the price! The updated Fookers just feel better, spin more smoothly, and have zero play. They have been improved since this video was made. Honestly, they are now built better than the Chester's and will be my new go to pedal for EMTB riding. They also come with spare pins and shims as a courtesy. The Raceface warranty requires you to fill out a form and give your CC number so they can charge you. Skip them and go Fooker.
Yep, I recently brought some stamp 1 pedals, and the first thing I did was replace the stock bearing with a higher quality one, and I popped the seal off the new bearing and packed it full of grease, it was pretty dry, I think these bearings come with small amounts of grease because they're designed to spin at very high rpm, like 10,000 rpm and too much grease at those rpm can heat up the grease which can expand and damage the seals, but a mtb pedal bearing would probably only spin at around 60rpm, I also replaced the bushing with a needle roller bearing, you can easily fix these cheaper pedals just by putting some decent quality bearings in them.
i have 3 1988 rockhoppers all with original composite pedals - no problems
On Amazon UK they sell these for £47 which is about $61. That's roughly 3 times the price mentioned in this video!
Hard to tell for sure, but I think there are copies of those aluminum pedals out there as well. Wonder if it's possible to buy the knockoffs, then refurbish them with an official rebuild kit once the bearings wear out?
Whats the better in pedals? Ball bearings or DU Bearings?
I have a pair of Rock Bros pedals similar to the fooker.
Same.
I did for a couple rides and they broke on roots from 2 strikes. I have Crank Bros on another bike that have lasted through many rock strikes, so I’ll not be buying Rock Bros again. I replaced the rock bros with Fooker aluminum. $27. So far, so good.
Been running the knockoffs for 2 years... nada problems 👍
Clean and regrease bearing races and threads every 6 months. Easy peasy, no cost maintenance.
I've been using the fooker for about a year, hard use and some pedal strokes, and never had any issues until now. But been thinking on trying aluminum.
Would it be possible to easily sand the logo off of the fooker pedals?
I run both race face and fookers, they are the same thing, probably same factory and have lasted just as long and can color coordinate all my bikes
Do the chester and fooker have the same no. of bearings installed?
a couple of weeks i was looking at the fookers but it seems like now they dont sell them anymore cuz i cant find them anywhere where they were before altho the chesters have gone down in price
Supporting a rip off instead of the real thing and local shops. Good way to help the community thrive.
Nice size. Easy to use and lightweight.
Finally someone shows them used.
So I just snapped my spindle on the Kona wah wah 2. The bearing case also cracked. I debated getting the spindle bolt... but it's going to probably fail again... not sure what to do because I loved these wah wah 2s
Get you some good Fookers man.
Better get the Crankbrothers Stamp 1 ☝️
The best thing I like about plastic pedals is that I don't worry to smash them.
For the price of one set of alu pedals I can buy 4-6 sets of quite good plastics, and I'm sure that 5 plastic pairs with live much longer than one alu pair.
Josh!!!
Tyvm for this video. I'm finally getting my MTB ready for some riding and getting it geared up for a look I like. I've got a Giant Anthem X 29er 2013. Mostly black with white and yellow. I like the aluminum pedals, but the name brands are out of my price range. I've seen the Fooker and a few other off brands. Its good to know that the off brand is a good quality alternative. I still want the aluminum pedals, but I'll wait. Ty for all the info. Peace out.
No worries! So happy to help out!
I run Sixpack Vegas composite pedals and they do well! I ran them for two years until I had to replace them. They have a great range of colours and they are cheap.
I do not know what to choose oneupa or sixpack vegas
@@radekgacek8050 I have never tried OneUp so I can't tell you... I like the vegas pedal. I would buy it again and again! 🤷♀️
Amazon UK charge £46 which is near $60 for the fooker pedals
I use Imrider peddles. They are also Chester knock offs, probably the same peddle as the Fooker but sold under another name, and they are just fine. I also have a pair of Chester's and thus far I really can't tell a difference between them.
i bought some expansive ($60) pedals with those screws in it and i almost fall everytime i stop, my foot being stuck in it. i just ordered some sandpaper covered pedals. $30, cheap one are 2 to 5.
Yes they do! I have those same pedals and they've been awesome. Fookers, haha!
I had a pair of those, and one was coming off the spindle lots of play. Amazon allowed me to return. Maybe it was a fluke. I was kind of worried about getting another pair after that. Paranoid if it wasn't a cromoly spindle, it could break and slash my leg or something. I ended up with a pair of one-up composite and have had over a year now. I feel like composite is a little less harsh on pedal strikes vs aluminum.
I have the Fookers and they have been a good pedal. I wear a size 12 shoe and found them a little on the small side so I tried the Crank Broa Stamp 1 in large. They were twice the price and didn’t grip as well. I just ordered a set of One Ip Comp pedals and hoping they fit better and grip as well as the Fookers.
How was that
Awesome vid man.... so hard to find great vids and cool people doing them... U got both covered buddy .. Thanx so much for doing all these vids keep up the great job !!!!!!
I have large feet - do those Konas offer the best surface area that you’ve tried? I have the CrankBros Stamp 7 Larges - which we awesome feeling but did not hold up well at all. Currently running a knockoff aluminum pedal but foot moves around more than the Stamp 7s
Try Pedaling Innovations Catalyst Pedal. I have 3 sets on different bikes and love them
Same 🙋🏻♂️, well 2 pairs on different bikes 😬
They're great for standard pedals - I'd say go with the pedaling innovations if you want the big boy, overkill pedals
As a longborder bearing grease and proper cleaning can make the cheapest of bearings butter I just 2 min of cleaning and greasing on a bike thiers alot more cleaning and greasing I like to do
A friend of mine snapped a pair of amazon Chinese knock off pedals (not Fookers) casing a jump hard. He finally took my advice on one up composite pedals and has used them for years with no issues! Let me know if those Fookers hold up to your rad riding mate!
I split the difference and use the nylon Wah Wah 2s. All of the benefits of the alloys and reasonable at $50.