How To Fit & Remove Pedals From Your Mountain Bike | Basic Bike Maintenance
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- If you've bought a new bike or just want to fit some fresh pedals to your existing MTB, you'll need to know how to install and remove them correctly and safely. Doddy shows you how 🔧
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Older or cheaper pedals use a 15mm spanner fitting on the axle, you might need a dedicated pedal spanner to install and remove these as the flats can be quite thin. More modern pedals tend to use a 6mm or 8mm allen key.
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First I was wondering why this video is almost 15 minutes long. Now I know. Nice and very detailed video.
Glad it was helpful!
My big mistake is not greasing pedals when fitting and can never get them off again think I’ve learned my lesson now
Grease/lubrication isn't the issue, it needs to be anti-seize. The reason is because two dissimillar metals can react and oxidize, so a neutral compound inbetween can prevent this. Personally I use Coppaslip, which has copper in it. The presenter mentions titanium specifically and theres a good reason why if you look into it.
Moving in a couple days and was freaking out about getting the bike back in the box. So helpful, Thank you!
Perfect timing! I just bought new pedals yesterday.
I feel like every time I have a tec problem the next day a video comes out about it
When I worked at a bike shop, I used to take the chain of the chainwheel so I could use the pedal spanner trick in both directions. Check your pedals often! I ruined a XTR crank last year by no doing so.
Planning on doing a bigger upgrade this weekend so I decided to loosen my cranks just to clean them and make them easier to replace.... It took my entire body weight to get it unstuck was doubting myself multime times if I was even pushing in the right direction. Thanks for the tips doddy!
Excellent video. Clear instructions, no nonsense. Many thanks!
An MBE coming your way sometime in the future , Doddy . Thanks for this . Had very tight pedals , watched two other vids before this , and they were useless mostly . I copied the way you did the left pedal , same body position and crank position , and it worked !!! Your video focused less on clockwise/counterclockwise , but gave me a methodology to apply . Cheers mate . I owe you several beers .
I been trying to track down a creak the past few days.
I've gone through the laundry list of culprits. So I decided to
check out the pedals. I took them off and found that they were bone
dry. I put some anti-seize put them back on and Walah, creak is gone!
Thanks! GMBN is awesome!!!
I use the crank arm to help. For example, to remove the left pedal, I put the Allen key above the crank arm, grasp firmly, and squeeze. Similar on the right crank where the Allen key is below the crank arm. I learned this way because I don't usually have someone nearby to assist in holding the bike.
Yep the crank way is the best! Hold Allen key and push down on pedal with foot.
Very clear instructions. Easy to follow and offers 2 ways of changing pedals. Thank you.
Thanks so much, I have been searching for a video to show this for the spanner thanks for the tips
Great lil basic pedal information video
Well, I watched this to see how they could make a video about removing and installing pedals 14 minutes long and I ended up learning what those mysterious washers included with my bike were for!
thanks mate...that was a real detailing... jst missed urr videos till now..but will never fom now on..keep teaching.cheers
Upgrading to flat pedals on my new bike! Perfect video thank you!
Doddy, that canyon is cool
Great video thank you! Took about 15 minutes using pliers and the right allen wrench.
I originally took the common internet advice about not needing to 'really' tighten pedals when I started out last year. Then had a pedal unscrew and fall off - so that's a myth busted. Luckily it was not under much load so didn't ruin the threads.
On digging deeper it turns out that SRAM (cranks) and DMR (pedals) both recommend around 50Nm torque for these. That is 'tight'.
Lesson learned - RTFM!
Now I use a 1/2" drive torque wrench with a 6 or 8mm hex socket for this job.
50nm is a hell of a lot of torque. The threads can often take it, but honestly I don't think you need so much. I've never done them past fully hand tight. As the presenter says, the action of pedalling imparts additional torque over time. The important thing is to check pedals frequently and nip up if necessary. For the record, the consensus guidance is between 35 and 50nm. Either of these values will need a big torque wrench to measure, so do take extra care as you'd often have to employ an automotive torque wrench to measure such a high value, often leading to the use of adapters if you need to use such a tool on an MTB. Using adapters can alter the torque measurement, so again, be very careful.
Easiest way to identify left pedal is it has a groove on the pedal shaft between thread and body! But a lot of people even techs, maybe doddy even as didnt mention it, don't know this. By Far the easiest way to id the left pedal. Right doesn't have a groove. All left pedals have the groove in some form, including all those shown in the vid! Easier than looking for a tiny L/R also.
Very helpful video.
Lots of ways to do it but I always point the tool forwards and put my foot on the pedal and push down on the pedal and pull up on the tool, exactly the same bpth side, nice and simple.
Super helpful, thank you.
Excellent video
I love how in our minds we completely agree with the term 'exotic' being used in regards to titanium bike parts hahaha
Thanks for presenting!
Very useful your help thanks
I should have looked at your video first and I would have 2 hours of my life back😖excellent tip on the treading to be able to recognise the left and right pedals. My new pedals didn't state which and hence I couldn't understand why they wouldn't fit. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
Useful video!
Just love Blake's acting skills with the slip onto the chain ring!
You just saved the day. I thought I was turning the right way, but I guess not! Thank you!!!
Thanks this help a lot
Thanks made it a lot easier
By far the easiest method is a 3/8" or 1/2" inch 6mm/8mm Allen socket and in some cases a 1/2" breaker bar 👍
This is what i need !!!!!! Yes
thank you dody
I’m not sure I agree with the washer on pedals part, they are not always necessary.
There are some reasons you might need them…..
1. If you have delicate Carbon cranks with thread recessed but not always are they supplied unless said reason.
2. Some pedals sit too close to the crank and can rub the crank but many inc Shimano have engineered clearance so don’t supply washers.
3. Set Q-Factor better (clearance from chain-stay to pedal) and or to bring pedals out a little to get them in a better position for the rider.
Years ago they were much more common but not really today, you can buy them aftermarket but don’t put the frighteners on people thinking they’re ruining their pride and joy not having them lol
Your reasons for including them are spot on. I used to follow pretty much this exact school of thought. Last week I wound up wrecking a set of OneUp pedals because I gambled on the theard recess. It wound up seizing the spindle in the pedal at the crank arm end. The pedal was rotating itself off while I rode. Thankfully I noticed it before it did any damage to the threads on the crank arm. I'll be using the washers going forward. :)
Had my new bike shipped to me, and I put it together..had new pedals to mount and there was plastic washers, but they were to small to fit to the pedals so I mounted them without..it doesn't seems to be a concern. Is there any other reason for having washers then make more clearance to the cranks?
Thank you, I'll be honest, i just needed the bit where you explain which way to undo them because it didn't matter how much i thought about it, it was hurting my head! Pedals are now in bits bearings soaking in oil and everything greased. 🤞 It stops the clicking and saves me buying new ones!
thanks bro, just switch out my boring factory setting black pedals for some jazzy ones :)
I just zipped them off with a allen socket and impact wrench :] job done
They don't do that now! I just bought a brand-new pair of Nukeproof Horizon pedals. They tighten toward the rear, but when pedaling forward, they undo themselves and fall out of the crank threads! The R and L are stamped on them for idiot-proofing, and I've also searched for these in other videos, which are all the same! So, being from the old-school riding days, I knew that they should tighten as you pedal, not loosen! I don't know if Nukeproof has sent out all their pedals with the spindle on the wrong side and stamped for that side? They are the 2024 Sam Hill Nukeproof Horizon pedals! Go watch some reviews, and you'll see what I mean! When I was testing my gear setup in the bike stand, the pedals would keep unscrewing and come off in my hand as I pedaled forward and tightened when I pedaled backward! I need to know for my own safety and for others if these pedals need a recall! Please can you look into this further?
A good trick is to use one foot to loosen the pedal while placing your other foot in front of the pedal to stop the cranks from spinning. This removes the need to drop the bike on something because your hands are free
hey i have question can i buy those canyon headset spacers so my bars cant spin and if i can will they work if i dont own canyon bike @GMBN Tech
Upside down, and use allen key against the tyre I find easiest... stops cranks turning with same force ur applying to hex, so balances it automatically....works to tighten and loosen both...best with T hex
great video what do I do if my pedal is stuck?
I work at a Bikeshop myself and have to say, you can never tighten a pedal too much (okay okay, yes you can, perhaps when your allen key breaks, but you shure can put your whole body weight on the allen key) with an allen key! The pedals naturally loosen when they're not tightened enough, wich is often a problem of customers that install their pedals themselves.
I grease my pedal axel threads and just nip them up, nothing crazy, never ever had a pedal come lose
i bought a mtb pedals online recently but i received both pedals for the left side
my question is can the left side pedal be use on the right crank?
This was the first thing I had to learn to do and I still get it wrong. "Back it off" is the phrase I try and remember for loosening, but turn the bike upside down on the trailside and I'm confused all over again
still back it off, same way compared to normal pedaling...
For really stuck pedals, I've put the bike in the stand and then used two old inner tubes to secure the other pedal to the frame (or rope if the frame is minging), pedal spanner in place with a longish cheater bar (usually an old seatpost) and then gorilla the damn thing out. Cheap bikes have pedals made of cheese and getting these off is a real pain.
Just use some penatrating oil and leave it for an hour or two, or even overnight. If something is incredibly stuck, through corrosion or oxidation, take the crank arm off and pad a vice to secure it. Penatrating oil usually works, though. GT85 is what I use.
is there a way to put pedals that use an Allen key to attach onto a bike that previously had pedals that need a pedal spanner
Doddy, when did you get a new watch?
Clear instructions but I guess my bike is special because I can't get these pedals off still. No direction seems to turn the pedals. I do notice there is a washer on the front of the pedals but I have no tool that could reach that!
#AskGMBNTech Hey Doddy! I really cannot understand why aren't six pot brakes a thing yet. I mean as stated in a previous video, 35 mil bars too are just for compensation to thicker stanchion tubes. Yes, there were old ones with six pistons from hope and brembo, but why aren't there any modern ones? They would probably be too powerful, but I bet those big brands could make them a little weaker, and the cooling would still be better (not even mentioning the cool factor).
What do I do if the pedals are so so tight? I’ve greased it and tried that but I can only get 2-3 turns on it and they’re hardly in.
So bike didn't come with washers and new rockbros also no washer however dont think my cranks had an inlay very flush.. Thank you added a little anti seize anyways fantastic video as always
Cheers for the support! 👊
How have your Rockbros held up? I’ve got a 4 month old bike. I bought Rockbros pedals, used antiseize and snugged them on installation. Unfortunately the right one backed out, stripped the crank threads! Now I’m waiting on new cranks and bought Raceface Chester’s to go with them. I don’t know what caused the threads to be stripped.
was wondering what type of allen key it was
Why not just switch places to fit the other side? Or flip the bike ofcourse.
I want to switch between flats and clips, am I going to wear the thread in the cranks out quickly tightening and loosening constantly
As long as you use grease every time and make sure to not cross thread, you will be fine if your cranks are semi decent
Was Doddy on that Big Wheel bike?
Wouldn't it be easier to remember clockwise or anti clockwise to tighten ?
Do they still sell that seat
Left hand thread also has a groove , as you see on left hand pedal. The same as your bbq gas bottle hose.
Loosen toward the rear , pushes the hand and foot toward the front mmmk .
This video saved my life. I didn't think I needed to watch a video for installing pedals but learnt I was doing it all wrong. Didn't even know pedals have actually a side of their own. Thank you.
As I understand it, the reason for the threading direction has nothing to do with axles seizing up, and everything to do with mechanical precession: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical)
What I want to know is
How do I fit and remove my bike to my pedals, can you do that video next please
The explanation on why the left pedal is links threaded is to my knowledge wrong.
It might be a happy side effect, but the main reason is to prevent them falling off.
You see, if it was right hand threaded it wouldn't fall off if the bearing got seized up, it would however come off if the bearing didn't get seized up. This is cased by gyroscopic possession. Just try back pedaling with slightly loose pedals, they will eventually work themselves off, at least if the bearings are good...
My new flat pedals have not been shipped with new pedal washers. Would ordinary washers of the same diameter suffice?
Yep! Absolutely!
@@gmbntech I’ve just had a raging argument on E-mtb FB forum with many saying that they have never used washers while installing pedals. Lots of muppets think they know better than you.
How do you know you’re pedal will fit?
Pedal Washers ! Arhhh.....wish you made this video 6 months ago before I fitted my new DMR V12's!....I definitely would have added washers, but alas in my ignorance.........oh well....
Curious about tightness because manufacturer specs state around 40nm, which is mad. I mean that's car torque wrench figures. I just do pedals hand tight and I've never had one come off.
I have a cap or something over the spot where the Allan key goes…..I can’t figure it out lol
Caps can be carefully removed using a small flat bladed screwdriver, which should expose the fastener.
oh no, I forgot grease on my new pedals. Think I have to order some and unscrew them from my cranks lol
I don't get the tightening thing. I always thought this but if you hold onto the pedal shaft and turn the crank around how you normally would while riding the pedal will unwind.
The tip is to backpedal! 😉🔧
Any sense of torque? 10 ft-lbs?
What if the spanner will not grip what can you do?
A spanner shouldn't really be involved, but if you're working on an older bike, you need to use the correct size spanner. If you've stripped the hex bolt out, then the only solution is to drill it out and replace with a new pedal. Same applies if you've rounded off the axle. Theres no real way to fix that aside from drilling out the pedal axle.
I’m having a problem my bike pedal randomly snapped off while I was using it, just the pedal part no other parts. I’ve been trying to get the rest of the pedal parts off, there’s still a black kind of stick left on and some gears and random bits and pieces but I don’t know how. What should I do?
It needs drilling out. Find someone who has the tools necessary to remove the crank arm and drill out whats left of the pedal axle.
I can't get the pedal on the side with the fount gear off
is loctite safe für pedals?
probably but its self tigtening so no need to, unles you peddel more backwards than forwards... :p
Blue shell
I'm on team rubber mallet...
Why hold the peddle?
No issues with assembly for me ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".
Unfortunately I put thread locker on mine and now can’t get them off😃
Not the end of the world. If it's blue thread lock, then heat the end of the crank arm with a hair dryer. Put a towel behind to prevent heat hitting the bike. Blue threadlock will give way easily using this method. If not, post back. There are other methods. If it's red threadlock, you may have to resort to drilling, but try heat first. If you use an actual heat gun, then use a plumbers pipe soldering shield behind the crank arm, as they get VERY hot. Keep the heat local to the area of work at all times.
@@vtrmcs dude I’ve tried an air impact wrench with over a 1,000 ft lbs of torque. They ain’t movin. Anyways how would you drill them out?
Anyone ever try an impact gun to remove the freaking pedals ? Mine are so seized up I am afraid to snap something . (And yes I am turning the correct way)
Have you tried taking the pedal off by turning the bike upside down? I couldn’t get a pedal off my bike but once I turned it upside down, it came off with ease. I think it’s because you work with gravity rather than against it and it comes off so much easier
Whats the bike you ride A canyon? what?
And I never new pedal washers existed
This video is longer than the actual video 🤭
Clean / grease....
Looks like a dog bomb on your tire at 10:34, or where I live it might be human. Long video for pedal installation.
It's not always loosen to the rear of the bike that's horrible advice! Because it's a circular rotation. After you rotate to the rear the next rotation is to the front!
NON, not None/nun 🙉😂😋
E
Background music is very irritating.
your pedals don't match
a 14 minute video on removing pedals 🤦♂️
Could see you smashing your teeth on the bike frame there for a minute, ouch.
If you need a 15 minute video to know how to replace pedals, please give your bike back to the shop!
Believe me: if you are out on the middle of nowhere and you need to undo your pedal for whatever reason, and cant just "give it back to the bike shop", then you better know how to do it. Also, its not rocket science, and bike shops nowadays have better things to do too ;)
@@CyclingLifePT you've got 2 options, turn the spanner left or right, or allen key.... It's not a hard thing to figure out really is it?
@@InitialP_Photography it really depends on how good the maintenance job was. I've seen right pedals on the left and vice versa, i've seen pedals that ceased on the crank (become stuck), i've seen people turning the wrong way and putting the pedals even more thight on the crank ... With all of that, you really have to know what you are doing, its of no use to just try one way or another.
i bought a mtb pedals online recently but i received both pedals for the left side
my question is can the left side pedal be use on the right crank?
I'm sure you've solved this by now, but for the benefit of others, the answer is no.