There's stuff around at boat shops and resin wholesalers, if you're lucky. Definitely in Sydney, 'Straya. Thanks for the tips, insider info and videos, man, yewww 🤙🏾 The blue in the shaping bay and the new camera make your eyes POP haha.
Yea, even some Bunnings stock the Norski stuff, seems that 56kg can be tricky to find in a lot of places though! Paid an extra $50 to make my eyes look good 😂
Hey dude great information,I sent you a email,but you r video covered my question s,thanks so much,as I mentioned I have. Lighting Bolt in need of repair and love. It's a Eberley shape. Can't send pic on this app,but similar to the one in your video. Aloha
Gday mate! Sorry I didn't get your email, just been slack at answering! Very cool that you got your hands on one, all the best for your repairs! If you have instagram or Facebook, send some photos through, I check them more often than emails 🤙
The audio and camera were excellent. You answered my key question, which was how to prevent large bubbles at the base of the pour. Keep it moving until warm, then pour immediately. Of interest, I sourced some 35kg/mtr expanding foam, which seems hard enough, sans the large bubbles at the base. Would you have concerns using this? Also, is it advisable to spread i.e. with an squeegee etc, the foam immediately after pouring, when repairing a large area.
Hey hey! Cheers, a marked improvement in video quality! 35kg isn’t bad, I always have it on hand but the 56kg matches a PU blank a bit closer, especially if your pour is a little tumeke and you have to sand into it quite a bit. On really large pours like Delams and snaps, I’ll do one big pour over the area which often leaves some quite big air bubbles. Once that’s kicked, I’ll give it 24hrs before sanding and then do a tight squeegee of another pour over the top, filling the large air bubbles with more foam instead of resin. Squeegeeing will result in a lot of really small air bubbles but they can then be filled with resin and micro balloon’s after that squeegee coat is sanded
cam 100 better,, ,doing a big repair on my old thruster, ,my dad put it in the garage attic ,over t years he pushed wood like 2 x4 up in the garage loft dinged my board rotten , so its 32 years old and decided to custom repair,, i now know i have to back step , as i added to much weight with trying to fill a long hole with Reisen.., love you videos its my first attempt o restore ,,going to take off the heavy res and fill in form liquid type ,its got to heavy on 1 side ,its my first attempt ,,are you a plasterer,,, im a qualified plasterer from UK and i feel like repairing old boards is like plastering walls the videos so interesting ,,would love to try a blank my self,, kez wales uk
Not uncommon to have to go back a step but in my experience it's always worth it as the second attempt is always much better than the first! Foam will keep that weight down and more even for sure! Yea, I was an interior plasterer (gib stopper) before I started board repairs. You are at a massive advantage being a plasterer, the techniques are VERY similar, just requires a different product knowledge 🤙
From memory 4lb is equivilant to 64kg so I'd go more with the 2lb for "everyday" use. There is a conversion calculator in the description of this video. Those Canadians don't know what they are up to 😂
@@smallkinedingsfound 3lb on amazon. that’ll b future repairs, haven’t even surfed yet. Are you saying those hunks of resin repairs are prone to not holding up? I’m going to show i what I’m working on. first going to look through your vids to see if straight line cracks are covered. One magically appeared near nose, about an inch long, catches fingernail & a hair above stringer. I finger sanded it down, I can see the cloth coming thru in photo. For those, thought about a patch or maybe just the hot coat. Planning on 2 hot coats overall. This board was banging around in the back of a guys van with dozens of boards & stuff to sell.
Could not have posted this video at a better time - I have a repair to make on my longboard this week that will require some expanding foam - will be my first time trying expanding PU and pretty stoked on it. Thanks again for your content, it really is appreciated.
Would you recommand using expanding foam for a snapped board? Or putting it together with resin and glassbubbels first and maybe when its set and the board is together again so you can sand or rout out the ‘rest’ of the repairs? I am in doubt😇
Definitely can. Get it back together first qith your resin and qcell and if there's is anywhere where the original foam is missing or doesn't quite meet up then this is your stuff
Thanks, that was my idea.. bc with the foam I fear very much a lot of stress putting them together😄 because you need to be very quick. After sticking together, i probably rout or cut some extra out indeed, and than I prefer the foam. Thanks again👍🏻
hi bud ,,question for you please,,, on expanding form ,,, i heard you say about it the for from a from a store like window jam form,,, what it someone one did use window jam form,, because he acted before knowledge of another gr8 video of yours,, like i did ,,,oh fk ,,please say i need to back track again,,, my Mrs is going to kill me, ,iv taken over the room with it so far ,, and yes i used window expanding form,,,
Hey hey, not the end of the world! You can always remove it and replace it with something better or just work with what you’ve got in place. My theory is, it can’t be any worse than EPS foam 😆
Definitely doable, at the end of the day that's how blanks are made. You just need a helluva mould to encase it in and I think the blank moulds are also an air vacuum to prevent bubbles. The product is right but the technique and set up would be techy as
Haven't noticed bubbles around the edges in particular but air bubbles in general are pretty normal. Keep it moving until you feel that expansion. If you're mixing it, bubbles can't form so mix it for as long as possible before pouring. If you're getting really big bubbles, you can always fill them with more foam.
Interesting, always wondered how that expanding foam of yours work. I think ill stick to my spare foam blanks for now 😂 and congrats on the new video quality bro. Next level improvement!
This is a PU foam so certainly compatible with PU boards but, also very much compatible with EPS boards. Essentially, any fibreglass board this product can be used in. 🤙
Loving your videos, Ur explainations are so cohesive and thorough, I was just wondering however, how you store the liquid foam and how long u can store it after you've opened it, all the places I'm hearing from are saying to use it immediately but that's not super viable so I just wanted to hear your thoughts on it. Cheers
Cheers man, appreciate it! I just store the mixtures in the bottles they come in with the lids screwed on. I've only ever had one batch of 64kg stop reacting and that was after at least 8 months of having that kit. I wouldn't be worried about shelf life though, it seems to be quite long. I always finish the bottle before I have to throw them out (aside from that one time)
Hi , great videos! I’m just a garage board builder /repairer , for some repairs would you just glue back in eps maybe with pu glue instead of using the poor foam ? Thanks
Backyarders make the world go round! I wouldn't ever replace EPS with EPS, always PU foam, just because it's a far superior product. I do use that method reasonably often (normally scraps from a blank or old board), more so on super white boards as the pour foam is quite yellow/brown. I have an FCS2 repair video where I do both methods on 2 separate boards and that goes over some of the pros and cons of both.
Most definitely, that's an option. BecUse of the colour of the pour foam it's quite hard to get good coverage without layering the paint really thick which risks poor adhesion of the lamination. The qcell screed can help with this but generally now I resort to inserting a blank off cut instead of using the pour foam for white boards
Negative, the hardware store stuff in a can is for door jams, window jams etc. It's a very low density and contains a lot of air because ifbthe way its expelled from the can
Hey mate, firstly thanks for all of your video's. You've been such a massive help and allowing me to find a better way to repair a surfboard outside of the terrible epoxy and Qcell repair method. I'm based down in Christchurch and its proving rather difficult to source 56kg Pu Foam. I can source 64Kg locally. You mentioned you only really use this for large repairs. How much harder is this to work with? Would it be worth just using the 64kg as getting 56 KG foam seems out of the question. Thanks again for all your help!
Heya Jake! My pleasure man, so glad they're helpful! 64kg is certainly doable. It's harder to sand but it's still not as hard as resin of course so certainly manageable and not going to damage internal foam like poring resin and qcell can. The major downside I think with 64kg is that it's commonly green which can be a pain innthe aesthetics! I would check the colour of it first with your supplier. The other avenue (can't remember if I mentioned it in this video or not?) Is to ring around a bunch of taxidermist, they usually use 56kg and from my experience are pretty happy to share their suppliers 🤙. If you get really stuck, let me know and I'll see if I can be of more help
I found one that is 160kg, (they say, but I think it is a bit lighter than that). Not having a clue I got that and... It's freaking hard! 😅 I'll get the 90 the next time. Should I remove that hard foam from the fin box I am trying to repair and start again, or I can get away with that, this time? Thanks! btw: great one again; the quality of the video is really good!
Gawd dayum, 90 is pretty wild but 160 is craziness 😂 I would personally remove it and go with something softer, remember the whole goal is not to have super hard material (resin and qcell) rubbing against soft material (your blank). If your foams as hard as resin, may as well just stick with the resin 😂. Depends though, if it's not for a customer then easier to keep going and see how it does. Call it science! Didn't realise the level of the camera until I uploaded, it's almost too crispy!
Seems like a year or more before the reaction has slowed down for me. Thats only with a couple of batches though, I've got some still going strong after that year
Wow, just found your channel while randomly looking for ways to fix a broken longboard fin where the screw goes in. Then found your “make a fin” vid, then this! Nice! Got a new sub 🙂. Still don’t quite know quite how I’m going to fix the fin, plus it’s a bit narrow for the box and flaps around (possibly why the screw hole broke in the first place). A word of warning on isocyanate is that it is viscously poisonous. I painted a motorbike once and they wouldn’t sell me the iso based paint. Full faced forced air respirator required and a fume hood. Look after yourself because cancer sucks
Welcome! If your fin is made of fibreglass you can always add more to widen up its tab and repair where it's snapped/broken. O, many thanks for that. I did mean to have a read about those 2 ingredients and totally forgot. Will check that out now 🤙
@@smallkinedings Yes you REALLY should be careful with isocyanate. It is very, very toxic and is not adequately stopped by any air mask filter. I worked with expanding foam for home insulation and we were very happy for the work safety requirement of always using a forced air respirator that pumped good air from a distance into my air masks, positively pressurizing the masks.
@@paulreavley5900 interesting to hear from you guys who work with large quantities of this stuff. I watch videos on spray foam insulators occasionally, gnarly work! The forced air respirator would be the dream for all things I do! Luckily I'm generally only using 20 ml at a time but combine this stuff with all the other chemicals in use, I feel like thatbkind of respirator is something I should strive towards
You could use it but it is very porous and a very low density. Its also not great to sand. I experimented with it a couple of times but steered away from it in the end
So it's a not a case of converting kg into lb. The question is, how much will the material weigh in a cubic foot, as opposed to a cubic meter. So if you take my 56kg foam and pour it in a cubic foot box, you will get 3.459lbs of material (but they sell it as 3lb)
So much quality knowledge and insight! Im calling you Dad from now on. Can the next vid teach us how to reverse a trailer?
😂 😂
There's stuff around at boat shops and resin wholesalers, if you're lucky. Definitely in Sydney, 'Straya.
Thanks for the tips, insider info and videos, man, yewww 🤙🏾
The blue in the shaping bay and the new camera make your eyes POP haha.
Yea, even some Bunnings stock the Norski stuff, seems that 56kg can be tricky to find in a lot of places though! Paid an extra $50 to make my eyes look good 😂
Return on investment for both is very high 🤣
Hey dude great information,I sent you a email,but you r video covered my question s,thanks so much,as I mentioned I have. Lighting Bolt in need of repair and love. It's a Eberley shape. Can't send pic on this app,but similar to the one in your video. Aloha
Gday mate! Sorry I didn't get your email, just been slack at answering! Very cool that you got your hands on one, all the best for your repairs!
If you have instagram or Facebook, send some photos through, I check them more often than emails 🤙
I guess without a local taxidermist, you're stuffed🌲
Print this, frame this, and mount this. Spectacular 🤣
😂 😂
The audio and camera were excellent. You answered my key question, which was how to prevent large bubbles at the base of the pour. Keep it moving until warm, then pour immediately. Of interest, I sourced some 35kg/mtr expanding foam, which seems hard enough, sans the large bubbles at the base. Would you have concerns using this? Also, is it advisable to spread i.e. with an squeegee etc, the foam immediately after pouring, when repairing a large area.
Hey hey! Cheers, a marked improvement in video quality! 35kg isn’t bad, I always have it on hand but the 56kg matches a PU blank a bit closer, especially if your pour is a little tumeke and you have to sand into it quite a bit. On really large pours like Delams and snaps, I’ll do one big pour over the area which often leaves some quite big air bubbles. Once that’s kicked, I’ll give it 24hrs before sanding and then do a tight squeegee of another pour over the top, filling the large air bubbles with more foam instead of resin. Squeegeeing will result in a lot of really small air bubbles but they can then be filled with resin and micro balloon’s after that squeegee coat is sanded
cam 100 better,, ,doing a big repair on my old thruster, ,my dad put it in the garage attic ,over t years he pushed wood like 2 x4 up in the garage loft dinged my board rotten , so its 32 years old and decided to custom repair,, i now know i have to back step , as i added to much weight with trying to fill a long hole with Reisen.., love you videos its my first attempt o restore ,,going to take off the heavy res and fill in form liquid type ,its got to heavy on 1 side ,its my first attempt ,,are you a plasterer,,, im a qualified plasterer from UK and i feel like repairing old boards is like plastering walls the videos so interesting ,,would love to try a blank my self,, kez wales uk
Not uncommon to have to go back a step but in my experience it's always worth it as the second attempt is always much better than the first!
Foam will keep that weight down and more even for sure!
Yea, I was an interior plasterer (gib stopper) before I started board repairs. You are at a massive advantage being a plasterer, the techniques are VERY similar, just requires a different product knowledge 🤙
thank u, so far in the States 2 & 4 lb density come up. nada for 56kg & uh Canada is on metric
From memory 4lb is equivilant to 64kg so I'd go more with the 2lb for "everyday" use. There is a conversion calculator in the description of this video.
Those Canadians don't know what they are up to 😂
@@smallkinedingsfound 3lb on amazon.
that’ll b future repairs, haven’t even surfed yet. Are you saying those hunks of resin repairs are prone to not holding up?
I’m going to show i what I’m working on.
first going to look through your vids to see if straight line cracks are covered.
One magically appeared near nose, about an inch long, catches fingernail & a hair above stringer.
I finger sanded it down, I can see the cloth coming thru in photo.
For those, thought about a patch or maybe just the hot coat. Planning on 2 hot coats overall. This board was banging around in the back of a guys van with dozens of boards & stuff to sell.
Could not have posted this video at a better time - I have a repair to make on my longboard this week that will require some expanding foam - will be my first time trying expanding PU and pretty stoked on it.
Thanks again for your content, it really is appreciated.
Knew it, this one's for you man! Good luck!
Would you recommand using expanding foam for a snapped board?
Or putting it together with resin and glassbubbels first and maybe when its set and the board is together again so you can sand or rout out the ‘rest’ of the repairs?
I am in doubt😇
Definitely can. Get it back together first qith your resin and qcell and if there's is anywhere where the original foam is missing or doesn't quite meet up then this is your stuff
Thanks, that was my idea.. bc with the foam I fear very much a lot of stress putting them together😄 because you need to be very quick.
After sticking together, i probably rout or cut some extra out indeed, and than I prefer the foam.
Thanks again👍🏻
hi bud ,,question for you please,,, on expanding form ,,, i heard you say about it the for from a from a store like window jam form,,,
what it someone one did use window jam form,, because he acted before knowledge of another gr8 video of yours,, like i did ,,,oh fk ,,please say i need to back track again,,, my Mrs is going to kill me, ,iv taken over the room with it so far ,, and yes i used window expanding form,,,
Hey hey, not the end of the world! You can always remove it and replace it with something better or just work with what you’ve got in place. My theory is, it can’t be any worse than EPS foam 😆
@@smallkinedings oh thankyou bud ,, im going to continue on ,, been worry ,hoping you say that,
vid quality is good!
A little too good, might have to start wearing makeup! 💄
What are your thoughts on a blank made totally from pour foam?
Definitely doable, at the end of the day that's how blanks are made. You just need a helluva mould to encase it in and I think the blank moulds are also an air vacuum to prevent bubbles. The product is right but the technique and set up would be techy as
@@smallkinedings It's a deep rabbit hole and I'm going down it 😅
@@Whitburn.Surfboards not a rabbit hole you'd regret I wouldn't think. Epic stuff that I should also look into more
kez swansea south wales plasterer
I found the expanding foam get lots of bubble around the edge of my repairing area when the foam grow up. Any suggestion to avoid this problem.
Haven't noticed bubbles around the edges in particular but air bubbles in general are pretty normal. Keep it moving until you feel that expansion. If you're mixing it, bubbles can't form so mix it for as long as possible before pouring. If you're getting really big bubbles, you can always fill them with more foam.
Interesting, always wondered how that expanding foam of yours work. I think ill stick to my spare foam blanks for now 😂 and congrats on the new video quality bro. Next level improvement!
A safe option for sure!! Cheers man, I actually didn't realise how good it was until I uploaded!
Hi. i still hace a doubt. if my board is a fiberglass polyester board. maybe its PU foam. can i use this product?
This is a PU foam so certainly compatible with PU boards but, also very much compatible with EPS boards. Essentially, any fibreglass board this product can be used in. 🤙
Thanks for this video🤙
My pleasure!
& did u ride pipeline
I did not, she was flat as a tack. Not that I would've anyway 😂 I've snorkled it a few times in the past, amazing to see what's down there!
Loving your videos, Ur explainations are so cohesive and thorough, I was just wondering however, how you store the liquid foam and how long u can store it after you've opened it, all the places I'm hearing from are saying to use it immediately but that's not super viable so I just wanted to hear your thoughts on it. Cheers
Cheers man, appreciate it! I just store the mixtures in the bottles they come in with the lids screwed on. I've only ever had one batch of 64kg stop reacting and that was after at least 8 months of having that kit. I wouldn't be worried about shelf life though, it seems to be quite long. I always finish the bottle before I have to throw them out (aside from that one time)
Hi , great videos! I’m just a garage board builder /repairer , for some repairs would you just glue back in eps maybe with pu glue instead of using the poor foam ? Thanks
Backyarders make the world go round! I wouldn't ever replace EPS with EPS, always PU foam, just because it's a far superior product. I do use that method reasonably often (normally scraps from a blank or old board), more so on super white boards as the pour foam is quite yellow/brown.
I have an FCS2 repair video where I do both methods on 2 separate boards and that goes over some of the pros and cons of both.
Do you ever try to air brush over the PU foam with white paint to hide if before glassing? Great videos, great info & entertaining too!
Most definitely, that's an option. BecUse of the colour of the pour foam it's quite hard to get good coverage without layering the paint really thick which risks poor adhesion of the lamination. The qcell screed can help with this but generally now I resort to inserting a blank off cut instead of using the pour foam for white boards
Is this the same thing as great stuff expanding foam in the can they sell it in hardware stores?
Negative, the hardware store stuff in a can is for door jams, window jams etc. It's a very low density and contains a lot of air because ifbthe way its expelled from the can
Got a question mate, what would you have to add to turn that foam from brown to white like surfboard?
Cannot yet, I'm sure a method will come up but for now it can't be done as far as I'm aware
i got some off amazon that’s great to work with fiberglass supply depot
There ya go, definitely out there if you're looking
Hey mate, firstly thanks for all of your video's. You've been such a massive help and allowing me to find a better way to repair a surfboard outside of the terrible epoxy and Qcell repair method. I'm based down in Christchurch and its proving rather difficult to source 56kg Pu Foam. I can source 64Kg locally. You mentioned you only really use this for large repairs. How much harder is this to work with? Would it be worth just using the 64kg as getting 56 KG foam seems out of the question. Thanks again for all your help!
Heya Jake! My pleasure man, so glad they're helpful! 64kg is certainly doable. It's harder to sand but it's still not as hard as resin of course so certainly manageable and not going to damage internal foam like poring resin and qcell can. The major downside I think with 64kg is that it's commonly green which can be a pain innthe aesthetics! I would check the colour of it first with your supplier. The other avenue (can't remember if I mentioned it in this video or not?) Is to ring around a bunch of taxidermist, they usually use 56kg and from my experience are pretty happy to share their suppliers 🤙. If you get really stuck, let me know and I'll see if I can be of more help
NZ fibreglass sells a 36kg option, which may be sufficient depending on the repair
I found one that is 160kg, (they say, but I think it is a bit lighter than that). Not having a clue I got that and... It's freaking hard! 😅 I'll get the 90 the next time. Should I remove that hard foam from the fin box I am trying to repair and start again, or I can get away with that, this time? Thanks!
btw: great one again; the quality of the video is really good!
Gawd dayum, 90 is pretty wild but 160 is craziness 😂 I would personally remove it and go with something softer, remember the whole goal is not to have super hard material (resin and qcell) rubbing against soft material (your blank). If your foams as hard as resin, may as well just stick with the resin 😂. Depends though, if it's not for a customer then easier to keep going and see how it does. Call it science!
Didn't realise the level of the camera until I uploaded, it's almost too crispy!
@@smallkinedings thanks!
hows the shelf life on pour foam, parts a and b?
Seems like a year or more before the reaction has slowed down for me. Thats only with a couple of batches though, I've got some still going strong after that year
Wow, just found your channel while randomly looking for ways to fix a broken longboard fin where the screw goes in. Then found your “make a fin” vid, then this! Nice! Got a new sub 🙂. Still don’t quite know quite how I’m going to fix the fin, plus it’s a bit narrow for the box and flaps around (possibly why the screw hole broke in the first place).
A word of warning on isocyanate is that it is viscously poisonous. I painted a motorbike once and they wouldn’t sell me the iso based paint. Full faced forced air respirator required and a fume hood. Look after yourself because cancer sucks
Welcome! If your fin is made of fibreglass you can always add more to widen up its tab and repair where it's snapped/broken.
O, many thanks for that. I did mean to have a read about those 2 ingredients and totally forgot. Will check that out now 🤙
@@smallkinedings Yes you REALLY should be careful with isocyanate. It is very, very toxic and is not adequately stopped by any air mask filter. I worked with expanding foam for home insulation and we were very happy for the work safety requirement of always using a forced air respirator that pumped good air from a distance into my air masks, positively pressurizing the masks.
@@paulreavley5900 interesting to hear from you guys who work with large quantities of this stuff. I watch videos on spray foam insulators occasionally, gnarly work!
The forced air respirator would be the dream for all things I do! Luckily I'm generally only using 20 ml at a time but combine this stuff with all the other chemicals in use, I feel like thatbkind of respirator is something I should strive towards
Brilliant
Yeeew
Thanks for sharing
My pleasure, thank you for Watching!
great video. I'm wondering if builders expanding foam can be used?
You could use it but it is very porous and a very low density. Its also not great to sand. I experimented with it a couple of times but steered away from it in the end
@@smallkinedings Thanks for the advice. I found a company in Cork who supplies the stir in foam so will go with the way you recommended here.
@@snakeeyes3733 Nice one, happy experimenting. It's actually a bit of fun watching it do its thing!
@@smallkinedings haha, it sure is😄 I'm more used to the builders expanding foam so this will be a first for me repairing a surfboard.
A pound is 2.2 kg,
So it's a not a case of converting kg into lb. The question is, how much will the material weigh in a cubic foot, as opposed to a cubic meter. So if you take my 56kg foam and pour it in a cubic foot box, you will get 3.459lbs of material (but they sell it as 3lb)
O, I just got your reference 😂 forget what I say in my own videos! So a "pound cake" is a massive cake?!!?
1 pound is 453 grams.