I had a similar problem where my 97 1200 clutch would slip under heavy torque but I pulled one of the 2 original springs and replaced with a heavy duty spring and now I can keep going until the plates are actually worn out. Voila, no more slipping. It resulted in a bit heavier pull on the lever but definitely not that bad. These engines tend to be very sensitive to what type of oil you use as well. I now stick with straight conventional oil and that should help as well.
rehearsing steps 1. 5.5mm hex key to open the cover 2. circlip removal tool to remove the circlip 3. plate cover comes off with a washer to lookout for 4. throw out bearing pulls out 5. 30mm nut socket and wrench with the rear rim locked to swingarm with a wood at the back from turning 6. another washer inside to remove 7. clutch and basket set comes out with a bit of wiggling...3 philips screw not required to unscrew for the basket to come out of the shaft.. 8. hope i got it right
The first "fiber" ring has room for the rings...but the second is also special : it's thicker than the others...as the first one is also as a matter of fact...
you said you were going to measure old and new disks to compare, you seem to have forgotten. It happens with age! this is exactly what I was interested in!
I remember measuring the friction plates on this project and they were not worn thin enough to matter. It was the cone washer/spring that was worn out. Weak and flattened from heat and age I suppose. Sorry for not putting it in the video
Every tutorial on RUclips: "I'm going to show you how to change _______". "Now that it's changed its all good. Pretend you're in school. SHOW THE DAMN WORK
@@jamiemciver2326 Wow that was a quicker reply than International Telegram!! That means its 30mm amigo! Thank you for the quick reply, i ride a 06 last model of the air cooled bandito shes getting super sensitive with the engagement with only a tiny release of the hydraulic lever, im assuming the clutch is fading out shes getting a first change now after 14yrs at 50,000mi - 80,000km i ordered some parts on ebay clutch cover gasket 10usd , 10pc clutch plates for about 16usd from china ...now looking to buy a 30mm socket wrench tool to complete the surgery Recently also opened the cam cover to do a 1st time valve adjustment cos its been running crappy (valve ticking was silent though) past 10,000miles or so to adjust Intake tolerances : 0.004 - 0.006 in / Exhaust: 0.007 - 0.009 in turns out intake clearances got too tight after these years (i thought they would get loose and noisy, i was wrong) Im posting these info so other bandito owners can benefit as well from reading this!
@@jamiemciver2326 i see...i wanted to dump the airbox to fix open pod filters but then i read somewhere the throttle response will be crappy without a proper carb jetting change as well so im holding that back for now..original jetting is 100mainjet & 15pilotjet (mikuni bsr36 carbs) if im not wrong ..
@@jamiemciver2326 I read an online ''sport rider'' motorcycle article about andrew carrey old model bandit 1200 several yrs ago the article titled '' bandito supreme'' - (165hp project) seems to have been taken down now since i can no longer find it online..but i took some notes of the things he did to it here..among the things he had: keihin flatslide carbs on it and its intake had no air filter of anysort, just empty at the back imgur.com/a/feUzvYz
youv'e gotta always have the camera on what your'e doing. you need to either get a stand or a chest mount when your'e doing anything to what your'e working on. and if you know information about it thats good to hear. i hope this is constructive criticism.
There are a few possibilities. I would start with checking your fluid at the clutch lever. If it is low this may also mean the slave cylinder may be leaking and needs rebuilt. If the clutch has been slipped a lot the friction plates may have worn but that wouldn't be all of a sudden like it would be gradual. The cone washer/spring may be worn or broken. Look into these items. If you plan to change the spring I recommend doing the friction plates as well since you will have that apart anyways.
Thanks for the info. Found a easier way to put basket back in. And yes the first try I broke the sprockets on back of basket “newbie”. So I removed the bearings the basket was sitting on then put the basket in without plates once adjust in well slip bearing back on 💥 Bam. Slide plates on.
I had a similar problem where my 97 1200 clutch would slip under heavy torque but I pulled one of the 2 original springs and replaced with a heavy duty spring and now I can keep going until the plates are actually worn out. Voila, no more slipping. It resulted in a bit heavier pull on the lever but definitely not that bad. These engines tend to be very sensitive to what type of oil you use as well. I now stick with straight conventional oil and that should help as well.
Yes I learned not to use synthetic with older bikes. They aren't build for that sort of viscosity. Thank you for the comment
rehearsing steps
1. 5.5mm hex key to open the cover
2. circlip removal tool to remove the circlip
3. plate cover comes off with a washer to lookout for
4. throw out bearing pulls out
5. 30mm nut socket and wrench with the rear rim locked to swingarm with a wood at the back from turning
6. another washer inside to remove
7. clutch and basket set comes out with a bit of wiggling...3 philips screw not required to unscrew for the basket to come out of the shaft..
8. hope i got it right
The 2 thicker metal plates should be the 5th and the 6th in order.
The first "fiber" ring has room for the rings...but the second is also special : it's thicker than the others...as the first one is also as a matter of fact...
you said you were going to measure old and new disks to compare, you seem to have forgotten. It happens with age! this is exactly what I was interested in!
I remember measuring the friction plates on this project and they were not worn thin enough to matter. It was the cone washer/spring that was worn out. Weak and flattened from heat and age I suppose. Sorry for not putting it in the video
@@jamiemciver2326 Thank you! cheers!
Nice to see this job being done..
Very helpful and informative thanks, just one question. Which way round does the concaved washer go behind the main 30mm clutch nut?
Every tutorial on RUclips: "I'm going to show you how to change _______". "Now that it's changed its all good.
Pretend you're in school. SHOW THE DAMN WORK
Fuck off. If you don't know shit about mechanics take it to a damn shop. I'm posting for people that already have some knowledge.
I try to keep my videos short because when I'm looking for how to do something. I know how to take a fucking bolt out and reverse steps for reassembly
Does the basket absolutely have to come out? Can the plates be accessed with the basket still installed?
That's very unlikely. The basket needs removed and then also taken apart to change the disks/plates
@@jamiemciver2326 OK thanks. I did a GSXR clutch years ago and basket stayed on. Appreciate your reply.
I did mine and found that the oil pump gear is missing teeth. How do I get those gears off to replace them?
Wow that sounds pretty serious. I'm not certain. Hope someone else has a vid of it. I'll look a little
what size socket wrench did you use at 3:30 to remove the lock nut?
I rewatched and mentioned 1 3/16". Not sure what size metric
@@jamiemciver2326 Wow that was a quicker reply than International Telegram!!
That means its 30mm amigo!
Thank you for the quick reply, i ride a 06 last model of the air cooled bandito shes getting super sensitive with the engagement with only a tiny release of the hydraulic lever, im assuming the clutch is fading out shes getting a first change now after 14yrs at 50,000mi - 80,000km i ordered some parts on ebay clutch cover gasket 10usd , 10pc clutch plates for about 16usd from china ...now looking to buy a 30mm socket wrench tool to complete the surgery
Recently also opened the cam cover to do a 1st time valve adjustment cos its been running crappy (valve ticking was silent though) past 10,000miles or so to adjust
Intake tolerances : 0.004 - 0.006 in / Exhaust: 0.007 - 0.009 in
turns out intake clearances got too tight after these years (i thought they would get loose and noisy, i was wrong)
Im posting these info so other bandito owners can benefit as well from reading this!
That was a 99. I have an 01 now
@@jamiemciver2326 i see...i wanted to dump the airbox to fix open pod filters but then i read somewhere the throttle response will be crappy without a proper carb jetting change as well so im holding that back for now..original jetting is 100mainjet & 15pilotjet (mikuni bsr36 carbs) if im not wrong ..
@@jamiemciver2326 I read an online ''sport rider'' motorcycle article about andrew carrey old model bandit 1200 several yrs ago the article titled '' bandito supreme'' - (165hp project) seems to have been taken down now since i can no longer find it online..but i took some notes of the things he did to it here..among the things he had: keihin flatslide carbs on it and its intake had no air filter of anysort, just empty at the back
imgur.com/a/feUzvYz
youv'e gotta always have the camera on what your'e doing. you need to either get a stand or a chest mount when your'e doing anything to what your'e working on. and if you know information about it thats good to hear. i hope this is constructive criticism.
Thanks for the tip. It's true I need a couple different mounts for my camera
All of a sudden my clutch lever is really soft on my 00 1200 bandit. Any suggestions on where to start to fix this problem
There are a few possibilities. I would start with checking your fluid at the clutch lever. If it is low this may also mean the slave cylinder may be leaking and needs rebuilt. If the clutch has been slipped a lot the friction plates may have worn but that wouldn't be all of a sudden like it would be gradual. The cone washer/spring may be worn or broken. Look into these items. If you plan to change the spring I recommend doing the friction plates as well since you will have that apart anyways.
@@jamiemciver2326 thanks a ton brother, as soon as I'm done work I'll be diggin in
My pleasure. I appreciate the opportunity to help brother riders
Thanks for the info. Found a easier way to put basket back in. And yes the first try I broke the sprockets on back of basket “newbie”. So I removed the bearings the basket was sitting on then put the basket in without plates once adjust in well slip bearing back on 💥 Bam. Slide plates on.
So did you determine the cause of it feeling soft?
You literally cut out and skipped the most important parts of the video. I didn't learn a single thing from this video
Ok. Great question. Probably better take it to a shop 🤦
My oil pump gearsBroke an half.......And clutch ring behind basket broke and 4 spots Cause no acceleration 🛑🛑🛑🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
I'm not even sure how to reply. I think in the end if you can repair it all on your own it's still cheaper than taking it to a shop. 🤷
my sincere condolences, sounds like a nasty problem, i hope you fixed it
Useless. You skipped All the important steps. Wtf is the purpose?
Thanks for your input. Changed my life. Glad I have an expert on the thread now to make a better video for us all