I wouldn't normally comment but this guy has done a really good job of showing what this is like. This early bandit tends to have few faults at full throttle, a bit of a wobble in the mid-range at 3000, and appalling idle, and jerky tootling about. They really need larger idle jets, and mikuni do them, you need two to 3 steps larger (this will not help emissions). But the cause of this is less than perfect idle jets AND passages. You need to look at the exit holes while spraying cleaner in the other side of the idle circuit. There is better fuel pipe now to deal with modern fuel. These are truly great bikes if you have the skills. Oddly they need gearing one tooth extra on the back sprocket for max speed, to rev out.
Thank you for the comment. Yes I noticed the bike is skills demanding. But really I can confirm, that it can run good on idle and midrange, if the idle-to-mid range is set up correctly. I have a video too about AF setup and that setup helped me sooo much! But anyway, as you said, bigger jets are considered from my side and also another head or milling down this one to have higher compression ratio. We'll see. Absolut truth about the gearing, yes.
Bandit is how i learned to work on carbs. Although personally i went with the factory pro kit and some k&n's. Got tired of working around the airbox 🤣. About to finally replace my 1200 with a new 765 street. But will always have a soft spot for these bikes.
Yes, it can get boring, so I will try to set a standardized procedure for myself to get it set up quickly. The bike is so powerfull I just love it. And the air coooling is the best thing for old steeel like this. Nothing can go wrong with cooling, because there is nothing there :) Besides, I think it's better to mess with old stuck carbs than with old stuck fuel injection. But might be wrong too, just my wild toughts :D Have a good one!
Props for showing that its not always just clean them and it runs great. I've had mine off 3 times before I got it running right, a/f still needs some fettling at tickover.
Yes, it's not that easy. I had to set the air fiel mixture after all this was done, to get the bike running right. Of course, because it was all disassembled...
Ok, I have to check it again tomorrow of the manual was for MK2...but still... 13 and 17 is too much difference and the engine is running ok...we'll see
You have to take this carbs completely apart and rins them with ultrasonic cleaner then they will work, and get rid of that garbage fuel filter it's asking for trouble, Suzuki has no filter on the fuel line, it's in the fuel tank
@@REBUILDLab@REBUILDLab I just did a POR-15 on mine. Inside, they are old rust buckets. Until that gets sorted, there is no point in cleaning the carbs.
Well, yes, a clean tank is vital, I also did cleaned it, but you know, even though it was many times flushed, there still remains som tiny little dirt inside...and that can be a blocker for the carbs. So the filter us a critical part to me.
@@REBUILDLab Yes. It's not a criticism. You do a fine job. I've had a few dirty tanks. Nothing works in the long run bar from lining them. It's expensive and a pain to do. I got fed up pulling the carbs apart. Just me dude
@@olafjensen4508 Sure, we're just talkin, I understand your point. Well, this filter solution works for me second season pretty well. BUT it needs to be said, that the fuel hoses and the filter, they all must be in a slight slope, otherwise it probably wan't work.
I wouldn't normally comment but this guy has done a really good job of showing what this is like. This early bandit tends to have few faults at full throttle, a bit of a wobble in the mid-range at 3000, and appalling idle, and jerky tootling about. They really need larger idle jets, and mikuni do them, you need two to 3 steps larger (this will not help emissions). But the cause of this is less than perfect idle jets AND passages. You need to look at the exit holes while spraying cleaner in the other side of the idle circuit. There is better fuel pipe now to deal with modern fuel. These are truly great bikes if you have the skills. Oddly they need gearing one tooth extra on the back sprocket for max speed, to rev out.
Thank you for the comment. Yes I noticed the bike is skills demanding. But really I can confirm, that it can run good on idle and midrange, if the idle-to-mid range is set up correctly. I have a video too about AF setup and that setup helped me sooo much! But anyway, as you said, bigger jets are considered from my side and also another head or milling down this one to have higher compression ratio. We'll see. Absolut truth about the gearing, yes.
Wow after some time. A new carb cleaning for a bandit! ❤
Not that I was looking for it 😁 Just wanted to ride...
Bandit is how i learned to work on carbs. Although personally i went with the factory pro kit and some k&n's. Got tired of working around the airbox 🤣. About to finally replace my 1200 with a new 765 street. But will always have a soft spot for these bikes.
Yes, it can get boring, so I will try to set a standardized procedure for myself to get it set up quickly. The bike is so powerfull I just love it. And the air coooling is the best thing for old steeel like this. Nothing can go wrong with cooling, because there is nothing there :) Besides, I think it's better to mess with old stuck carbs than with old stuck fuel injection. But might be wrong too, just my wild toughts :D Have a good one!
Props for showing that its not always just clean them and it runs great. I've had mine off 3 times before I got it running right, a/f still needs some fettling at tickover.
Yes, it's not that easy. I had to set the air fiel mixture after all this was done, to get the bike running right. Of course, because it was all disassembled...
Very good video.
Thanks it is helpful to me 🙂
Thank you, I very much like to read this! 🙂
That was awesome!
Thnx!! 👍
thought floats are 17mm? Live and learn
13+-1 mm according to Suzuki Service Manual
@@REBUILDLab Yeah, the Mk2
Ok, I have to check it again tomorrow of the manual was for MK2...but still...
13 and 17 is too much difference and the engine is running ok...we'll see
@@REBUILDLab Yeah, I'm checking out your other upload setting fuel/air. I have to do
Ok, just got to the manual: Float height for Mk1 Bandit 14,6+-1 mm, for 600 Mk1 17+-1 mm
You have to take this carbs completely apart and rins them with ultrasonic cleaner then they will work, and get rid of that garbage fuel filter it's asking for trouble, Suzuki has no filter on the fuel line, it's in the fuel tank
Thnx for the hint. The carnbs are working well right now, even with the filter. I don't trust the old steel fiel tank...
@@REBUILDLab@REBUILDLab I just did a POR-15 on mine. Inside, they are old rust buckets. Until that gets sorted, there is no point in cleaning the carbs.
Well, yes, a clean tank is vital, I also did cleaned it, but you know, even though it was many times flushed, there still remains som tiny little dirt inside...and that can be a blocker for the carbs. So the filter us a critical part to me.
@@REBUILDLab Yes. It's not a criticism. You do a fine job. I've had a few dirty tanks. Nothing works in the long run bar from lining them. It's expensive and a pain to do. I got fed up pulling the carbs apart. Just me dude
@@olafjensen4508 Sure, we're just talkin, I understand your point. Well, this filter solution works for me second season pretty well. BUT it needs to be said, that the fuel hoses and the filter, they all must be in a slight slope, otherwise it probably wan't work.
Pain in the a$$ bandits. Never had a decent running one yet. 😅
Really? Think it can be because of air fuel mixture after carb cleaning. Will post that too...
👋