Major tips for removal and install of Bandit carb bank. Take it from me that has done Bandit carb banks over 20 times. Here they are. For the cables, loosen the throttle grip and and remove cables from the throttle grip. This will allow a ton of slack so you can easily unload the cables from the carb bank with the carb bank over halfway out making it super easy to remove and install the cables. Way way easier!! Wow! WAY!! For re-install, make sure all clamps are as open as they can be, use a hair dryer on high heat and heat soak the rubber boots and spray a ton of WD40 all over the carb rims and inside the boots to slicken them up. Easy install. When done with the engine side, do the same for the air box boots. Enjoy the ride.
@JDnBeastlet - thanks for the great comment and for watching my video :) It's actually not that difficult, just fiddly. Biggest thing to remember is loosening off the airbox and pushing it back to remove plus using some WD40 or silicone on the rubbers to make the carbs slide back in easier. Also, do not ever split the carbs apart separately unless you really have to!
If the rubbers ever seem hard, to the point of damage when trying to reinstall the carb bank,......rather than buying replacements, try boiling them in water 10 mins, then soaking overnight in brake fluid. Softens and swells rubber. Magic ingredient in brake fluid and fork oil is "oil of wintergreen" . Do it before you need to though as it won't repair cracks or tears.
@@adamwelsh2463 Thankfully my ones are fine. Nice and pliable. I had heard of that same treatment you say. My old RG250 project I had a couple of years ago, those rubbers were like cast iron!!
@@adamwelsh2463 for sure. I had cracks in my Moto Guzzi V11 intake rubbers. Noticed that they were going hard but of course didn't do anything about it. First clue was when trying to start it, the Guzzi spat back through the intake and blew the throttle body straight off! The rubbers didn't have any elasticity in them.
Also. You will need to drill a tiny hole in your gas cap to vent and go with a gravity feed fuel valve and make sure to rubber cap the vacuum line port at the T Fitting.
@grabir01 - totally agree there. The standard tap always makes me nervous. I've heard that an FZ1 one fits in without too much trouble. Unsure but will investigate.
@sinistersilverado965 - thanks for watching. Hoping I don't have to do it again but it's not actually that difficult thankfully. I stay away from Ethanol fuel here in New Zealand. The BP 98 is good here.
@@motorcyclingkiwistyle Is BP98 Ethanol free?? I know NPD 100plus, a 100 octane fuel IS ethanol free, and Gulls Force10 is very low octane, around 10%. Ive got a few bikes, and have seen what ethanol fuel does to carbs if left to sit around, so try to use ethanol free fuel.
I worked in the UK as a despatch rider in the late 80s early 90s, and my GPX750 that was my non work bike, (that was a CX Honda) used to suffer from carb icing badly, even in temps not close to freezing, and that was with the carb heaters Kawasaki UK fitted to the UK model. For some reason the UK suffered from carb icing worse that other countries. Weird that, maybe it was their fuel🤷♀.
@@motorcyclingkiwistyle I remember watching one of those almost win the 88 Castrol 6 hr, Dad recorded it off TV and sent me over the VHS tape. The only reason they lost, was because they muffed a rear tyre change, allowing the FZR1000 in 2nd place to take the lead.
Nice. I have found with an open flow exhaust (ie not OEM) the ideal adjustment for air/idle screws are set at 2 turns out. Tried 3 1/2 turns my first time , but it was always running like a tractor. I think the general wisdom regarding this always tends to come via emmision controlled jurisdictions, where jetting is different from the factory. Try 2 turns, if its not right for you, go back to how you think it should be. Personally I prefer setting them a set number of precise turns, rather than the recommended way while engine running and doing 1,2,3,4 at 1500 rpm etc etc. Just an easier system for me when I know its going back together, works well for me. I also find that most second hand problems can be sorted by pulling it apart and just putting it back together PROPERLY lol. Good on ya. I didn't see if you removed the floats, float valve and emulsion tubes. Any time I take my carbs out I make sure to remove the emulsion tubes and clen them as they are the main culprit for clogging over time, Fine rust particles from the tank on older bikes build up gradually blocking the hole in the tubes causing all sorts of weird tuning symptoms. Not as weird as missing main jets though, must admit that is bad. I have come across missing orings on idle/air screws, missing orings under the top covers (the really small ones in the sync tube recess) that easily fall out without noticing when removing or replacing covers..
@adamwelsh2463 this is great advice! Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Yes, I stripped everything back so should have included that footage but it was already getting too long so edited that out! Grrr.... The emulsions were completely clear and the floats were freed up. New orings in the float valve brass holder assembly (can't remember the exact name for it) as they are the ones that give troubles with running plus flooding. I nearly lost one of the wee brass washers on the airscrews where the spring and o-ring go. So very tiny! The slides were nice and free plus no wear and tear on the diaphragms. I'm starting with the recommended 3.25 and then go from there. There's no emission gear on mine plus have stock pipes with the Yoshi Tri Oval so will definitely follow your recommendations. Thanks again :)
The holes for heater elements were from UK/Canada/USA models iirc. " May" indicate the origin of your bike. NZ models were designated in a zone with AUS and South Afr.
@@adamwelsh2463 The Canada model actually makes a lot of sense as I do know that Suzuki NZ imported a lot of that market to here back in the late 90s, early 2000s. ie RF900s and also the Bandits. Dirt cheap as well plus km/h speedos. From what I've read up on, most people take the heaters out anyway as they don't do a lot even for the UK ones. Also the carbs don't require blanking screws apparently. Getting back to your NZ/AUS/SA that was the special spec Katana 1100 wire wheelers only for them back in 1982.
@@motorcyclingkiwistyle .....My 1996 Bandit 1200 S is a region specific model. I believe the jetting differs from regions that had emission regulations, IE: USA, EU?UK. May be why the air idle screws need setting differently. I did spend some time reading the official Suzuki workshop dossier/manual but I have forgotten its exact specification apart from NZ models and SA models differ from rest of world. Dunno about the RF900 but I had a 1992 gsx600f, and the carb jetting varied by region. Heater element was a dead giveaway, also idle/air screw blanking plug required drilling out in some countries, USA I think..
@@adamwelsh2463 I'm planning to crank it up this weekend so will have a play with the air screw settings if need be. I'm really interested to see how it runs...if it actually does even!!
@thevoodoo57 - I go into a little detail on part 7 (ruclips.net/video/I8Z9jzKRiGQ/видео.html), but essentially the best way to hook it up is have the carbs still half out of the frame. I found out the hard way it is really difficult to do this while the carbs are installed. Just remember there are two places for the normal and return cables. I didn't bother with a return as the spring is pretty damn strong already! Thanks for watching :)
where do those 2 split hoses from the Air Valve go to? 5:54 on the right hand side. Im reassembling mine and don't know where those 2 vacuum lines go to?
@JulianCruzD - do you mean the two breather hoses from the tank that go straight down? One is slightly larger than the other. Actually it might be the carb vacuum ones. There is a carb heater valve on there which I have disconnected. Not required in sunny NZ 😊
hi how did you gets the airbox on so easy me and my mate have been having a nightmare with it (we can get the seals on but they seem to pop off straight away).
@kian_ford365 - first up, thanks for watching my video. Okay, a couple of tricks. Heat the rubber intake pods with a hairdryer to make it a little softer and more "rubbery". Over the years the rubber can go hard. Go easy on that. Second - squirt some silicon around the rubber (not too much) or a tiny smear of copper grease with your fingers into the inside of the rubbers. Then when you put the airbox up onto the carb, wiggle it from the outside side to side. What I then do is use a huge flat bladed screwdriver and lever it against the frame where the tank bolts and the back of the airbox and push down at the same time. Should be fairly straightforward then. Hope this helps :)
@domb7650 - yes you're right, I should have hoses on them, however they are not crucial to make the carbs work properly, especially if the float heights are set correctly. I assume you're talking about the float bowl ones? Thanks for watching my video 🙂
Two 100s a 60 and one missing all together🤔 Ive come across that sort of owner before when ive bought second hand bikes, no clue at all, but not enough sense to leave well alone things they don't understand.😏
I know, it's crazy ay. 4 carbs, 4 plastic containers, 1 workshop manual and lots of photos or videos. The CV carbs are easy to work on, just double check everything before reassembly, ay. That being said, I haven't started it up yet! 🤣
@@motorcyclingkiwistyle I would have connected the throttle cables first before putting them in, refitted the carbs on my 86 GSX-R1100 and couldn't get the cables fitted with carbs in place, hands are too big.😆
@untred7860 Yes totally agree and ordinarily I would have but I wanted to get the carbs off the bench. Plus I'm confident that I can get the cables back on without removing them, hopefully 😊. Also getting cables sorted at the moment.
Does anyone know exactly what carbs he has here. I have the same ones and I'm trying to figure out the carb info so I can get jets for resetting mine for pods and no muffler.
@@adambasham5014 Good luck with the carbs :) Glad I can offer some helpful opinions/advice. The carb really aren't that hard to remove and reinstall despite what people may think.
No they arnt too bad. Much easier tho when you get rid of the airbox and go to pods. I can get mine on and off now without removing anything else on the bike. Take each pod off then pull the carbs out of the intake boots. Takes less than 10 min.
As per my video, once you undo the airbox mounts and clamps, pop that back, remove the choke and clutch cables, loosen off intake clamps, then wiggle them out rhs. Straightforward 😎
Major tips for removal and install of Bandit carb bank. Take it from me that has done Bandit carb banks over 20 times. Here they are. For the cables, loosen the throttle grip and and remove cables from the throttle grip. This will allow a ton of slack so you can easily unload the cables from the carb bank with the carb bank over halfway out making it super easy to remove and install the cables. Way way easier!! Wow! WAY!! For re-install, make sure all clamps are as open as they can be, use a hair dryer on high heat and heat soak the rubber boots and spray a ton of WD40 all over the carb rims and inside the boots to slicken them up. Easy install. When done with the engine side, do the same for the air box boots. Enjoy the ride.
Nicely done! I have not had the carbs out of my Bandit 1200 - no need yet - but videos like yours will help when I do.
@JDnBeastlet - thanks for the great comment and for watching my video :) It's actually not that difficult, just fiddly. Biggest thing to remember is loosening off the airbox and pushing it back to remove plus using some WD40 or silicone on the rubbers to make the carbs slide back in easier. Also, do not ever split the carbs apart separately unless you really have to!
If the rubbers ever seem hard, to the point of damage when trying to reinstall the carb bank,......rather than buying replacements, try boiling them in water 10 mins, then soaking overnight in brake fluid. Softens and swells rubber. Magic ingredient in brake fluid and fork oil is "oil of wintergreen" . Do it before you need to though as it won't repair cracks or tears.
@@adamwelsh2463 Thankfully my ones are fine. Nice and pliable. I had heard of that same treatment you say. My old RG250 project I had a couple of years ago, those rubbers were like cast iron!!
Well lets hope its of use to someone else eh......
@@adamwelsh2463 for sure. I had cracks in my Moto Guzzi V11 intake rubbers. Noticed that they were going hard but of course didn't do anything about it. First clue was when trying to start it, the Guzzi spat back through the intake and blew the throttle body straight off! The rubbers didn't have any elasticity in them.
Also. You will need to drill a tiny hole in your gas cap to vent and go with a gravity feed fuel valve and make sure to rubber cap the vacuum line port at the T Fitting.
@grabir01 - totally agree there. The standard tap always makes me nervous. I've heard that an FZ1 one fits in without too much trouble. Unsure but will investigate.
I have a 2000 Bandit 1200 I bought new, had the carbs off about 4 times to clean them out
@sinistersilverado965 - thanks for watching. Hoping I don't have to do it again but it's not actually that difficult thankfully. I stay away from Ethanol fuel here in New Zealand. The BP 98 is good here.
@@motorcyclingkiwistyle Is BP98 Ethanol free?? I know NPD 100plus, a 100 octane fuel IS ethanol free, and Gulls Force10 is very low octane, around 10%. Ive got a few bikes, and have seen what ethanol fuel does to carbs if left to sit around, so try to use ethanol free fuel.
I worked in the UK as a despatch rider in the late 80s early 90s, and my GPX750 that was my non work bike, (that was a CX Honda) used to suffer from carb icing badly, even in temps not close to freezing, and that was with the carb heaters Kawasaki UK fitted to the UK model. For some reason the UK suffered from carb icing worse that other countries. Weird that, maybe it was their fuel🤷♀.
My old '89 ZX10 had carb heaters. But of course I'm never knew if they did their job as the weather in Wellington never got that cold.
@@motorcyclingkiwistyle I remember watching one of those almost win the 88 Castrol 6 hr, Dad recorded it off TV and sent me over the VHS tape. The only reason they lost, was because they muffed a rear tyre change, allowing the FZR1000 in 2nd place to take the lead.
@@uhtred7860 Oh the ZX-10 I had was an absolutely awesome bike. Will feature in a new video coming up :)
Nice. I have found with an open flow exhaust (ie not OEM) the ideal adjustment for air/idle screws are set at 2 turns out. Tried 3 1/2 turns my first time , but it was always running like a tractor. I think the general wisdom regarding this always tends to come via emmision controlled jurisdictions, where jetting is different from the factory. Try 2 turns, if its not right for you, go back to how you think it should be. Personally I prefer setting them a set number of precise turns, rather than the recommended way while engine running and doing 1,2,3,4 at 1500 rpm etc etc. Just an easier system for me when I know its going back together, works well for me.
I also find that most second hand problems can be sorted by pulling it apart and just putting it back together PROPERLY lol. Good on ya.
I didn't see if you removed the floats, float valve and emulsion tubes. Any time I take my carbs out I make sure to remove the emulsion tubes and clen them as they are the main culprit for clogging over time, Fine rust particles from the tank on older bikes build up gradually blocking the hole in the tubes causing all sorts of weird tuning symptoms. Not as weird as missing main jets though, must admit that is bad. I have come across missing orings on idle/air screws, missing orings under the top covers (the really small ones in the sync tube recess) that easily fall out without noticing when removing or replacing covers..
@adamwelsh2463 this is great advice! Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Yes, I stripped everything back so should have included that footage but it was already getting too long so edited that out! Grrr.... The emulsions were completely clear and the floats were freed up. New orings in the float valve brass holder assembly (can't remember the exact name for it) as they are the ones that give troubles with running plus flooding. I nearly lost one of the wee brass washers on the airscrews where the spring and o-ring go. So very tiny! The slides were nice and free plus no wear and tear on the diaphragms.
I'm starting with the recommended 3.25 and then go from there. There's no emission gear on mine plus have stock pipes with the Yoshi Tri Oval so will definitely follow your recommendations.
Thanks again :)
The holes for heater elements were from UK/Canada/USA models iirc. " May" indicate the origin of your bike. NZ models were designated in a zone with AUS and South Afr.
@@adamwelsh2463 The Canada model actually makes a lot of sense as I do know that Suzuki NZ imported a lot of that market to here back in the late 90s, early 2000s. ie RF900s and also the Bandits. Dirt cheap as well plus km/h speedos. From what I've read up on, most people take the heaters out anyway as they don't do a lot even for the UK ones. Also the carbs don't require blanking screws apparently. Getting back to your NZ/AUS/SA that was the special spec Katana 1100 wire wheelers only for them back in 1982.
@@motorcyclingkiwistyle .....My 1996 Bandit 1200 S is a region specific model. I believe the jetting differs from regions that had emission regulations, IE: USA, EU?UK. May be why the air idle screws need setting differently. I did spend some time reading the official Suzuki workshop dossier/manual but I have forgotten its exact specification apart from NZ models and SA models differ from rest of world.
Dunno about the RF900 but I had a 1992 gsx600f, and the carb jetting varied by region. Heater element was a dead giveaway, also idle/air screw blanking plug required drilling out in some countries, USA I think..
@@adamwelsh2463 I'm planning to crank it up this weekend so will have a play with the air screw settings if need be. I'm really interested to see how it runs...if it actually does even!!
where was the footage of how to re-connect the throttle linkage to the cam set up?
@thevoodoo57 - I go into a little detail on part 7 (ruclips.net/video/I8Z9jzKRiGQ/видео.html), but essentially the best way to hook it up is have the carbs still half out of the frame. I found out the hard way it is really difficult to do this while the carbs are installed. Just remember there are two places for the normal and return cables. I didn't bother with a return as the spring is pretty damn strong already! Thanks for watching :)
where do those 2 split hoses from the Air Valve go to? 5:54 on the right hand side. Im reassembling mine and don't know where those 2 vacuum lines go to?
@JulianCruzD - do you mean the two breather hoses from the tank that go straight down? One is slightly larger than the other. Actually it might be the carb vacuum ones. There is a carb heater valve on there which I have disconnected. Not required in sunny NZ 😊
hi how did you gets the airbox on so easy me and my mate have been having a nightmare with it (we can get the seals on but they seem to pop off straight away).
@kian_ford365 - first up, thanks for watching my video. Okay, a couple of tricks.
Heat the rubber intake pods with a hairdryer to make it a little softer and more "rubbery". Over the years the rubber can go hard. Go easy on that. Second - squirt some silicon around the rubber (not too much) or a tiny smear of copper grease with your fingers into the inside of the rubbers. Then when you put the airbox up onto the carb, wiggle it from the outside side to side. What I then do is use a huge flat bladed screwdriver and lever it against the frame where the tank bolts and the back of the airbox and push down at the same time. Should be fairly straightforward then. Hope this helps :)
Hi Mate! I cant see vent hoses on Yours carbs, they are missing or engine dont need them to work properly? Greetz from Poland!
@domb7650 - yes you're right, I should have hoses on them, however they are not crucial to make the carbs work properly, especially if the float heights are set correctly. I assume you're talking about the float bowl ones? Thanks for watching my video 🙂
Two 100s a 60 and one missing all together🤔 Ive come across that sort of owner before when ive bought second hand bikes, no clue at all, but not enough sense to leave well alone things they don't understand.😏
I know, it's crazy ay. 4 carbs, 4 plastic containers, 1 workshop manual and lots of photos or videos. The CV carbs are easy to work on, just double check everything before reassembly, ay. That being said, I haven't started it up yet! 🤣
@@motorcyclingkiwistyle I would have connected the throttle cables first before putting them in, refitted the carbs on my 86 GSX-R1100 and couldn't get the cables fitted with carbs in place, hands are too big.😆
@untred7860 Yes totally agree and ordinarily I would have but I wanted to get the carbs off the bench. Plus I'm confident that I can get the cables back on without removing them, hopefully 😊. Also getting cables sorted at the moment.
Does anyone know exactly what carbs he has here. I have the same ones and I'm trying to figure out the carb info so I can get jets for resetting mine for pods and no muffler.
@adambasham5014 - mine are stock BSR36 without the carb heaters. Nothing fancy.
Yea im sure im setting myself up for a pain in my ass but i got some brand new rs36's yesterday thank you for your help
@@adambasham5014 Good luck with the carbs :) Glad I can offer some helpful opinions/advice. The carb really aren't that hard to remove and reinstall despite what people may think.
No they arnt too bad. Much easier tho when you get rid of the airbox and go to pods. I can get mine on and off now without removing anything else on the bike. Take each pod off then pull the carbs out of the intake boots. Takes less than 10 min.
As per my video, once you undo the airbox mounts and clamps, pop that back, remove the choke and clutch cables, loosen off intake clamps, then wiggle them out rhs. Straightforward 😎