Damned nice, no two ways about it, BUT the ULTIMATE stock block small block is the 351W stroked to 427 cu in. Big block power in a small block package, and small block weight.
Increasing the stroke limits the max rpm potential because pistons speed increases.. personally I prefer high rpm medium displacement 302 to 358 cubic inches. Big displacement and high hp are easy compared to high rpm and high hp per cubic inch.. just my 2c they are all cool in my book.
@marktse8732 personally if I had the budget I would go for 9000rpm IMO that is the minimum rpm for a v8 to be considered a high rpm motor. Torque 400 to 500 would be enough because my classic car (capri perana)is a light European car. I think my power goals are a bit expensive to reach but they are achievable. I have seen yates headed fords that have the numbers I am after..700hp 9000rpm 302 to 358 cubic inch.. as for the 2jz, great engines but I am obsesed with old sbf, here in Europe they are rarity and sound amazing.
I'd love to put that in my dads 95 tbird. Which I now have in my garage all original car. Dad and i always talked about a terminator motor in her but that'll move it too. I miss you ol man.
Impressed with the Prestige Heads. Just watched a Power Nation build on a 347 and they used AFR's 205's and their power numbers were just a little better than these.
Another great video from THE HORSEPOWER MONSTER ! An excellent production featuring a superstar in the ever expanding 302W Universe. This combination of components was obviously well balanced according to the story told by the dyno. The most notable components are the aluminum heads from PRESTIGE MOTORSPORTS. They are the center of attraction and topped with the Holley EFI Hi-Ram Intake, clearly demonstrates the meaning of form and function. Well done, guys. And the beat goes on.....
@@DaOnE51T I'd like to learn more about your tips for keeping the block together. I'm researching to build a 302/306/331 for a road race vehicle I play with. I only need about 375 hp flywheel, but need 7000 RPM or a touch higher.
@@chestrockwell8328 I have had a 306 two 347 and a couple 351 engines....Currently have a 331 it's great on the street have had it about 3 years...The only ones I have had problems with wear the 347s one cracked block and one threw a rod out the side of the block both had about 400 miles on them...
Must suck to have to do that. This engine would fit in my '57 F100 and still have almost 12" from the top of the intake to the the bottom of my hood. hahahhahah
Love that intake manifold. I'd trade my systemax for it. 331 stroker, main girdle, valley pro girdle really good PAC valve springs and some trick lifters. Send that thing to the Moon and back like 7k plus rpm on a whim
Sorry, but I'm from Brazil and, however prejudice some may be with the people here, I would love to see this engine on my Ltd / Landau 75 Galaxie platform. Currently with 302 praying to be able to raise some money and put something of this level in a car that should come with this factory setting. Fingers crossed and cheering to win this piece of art
I enjoyed this video a lot because my 347 is a very similar combo except it's carbureted and I made similar power. Biggest difference between the two is my dual plane performer rpm intake versus the tunnel ram.
I’ve got Paxton blown 331 stock block with just under 600 hp to the wheels and I’ve put a lot of hard miles on it including road course racing on the weekends and I still haven’t broken mine so myself and a lot of other 5 L owners Will argue with you about that 500 hp number
You can make the older 302 blocks strong. I know several guys running 5.0 8th mile et with stock blocks. One is a turbo car the other nitrous but he is going turbo as well.
true but this block and cast steel crank will be fine for short bursts like a 1/4 mile street strip. circuit racing as the the guy puts it? no, you need a forged rotating assembly and a dart block or yes you WILL crack it
@Raymond Denno what were doing with it? Because big blocks can survive 700hp na on a stock bottom end. They do all the time in pure stock and super stock classes. they are strong as hell
That's a nice revving motor. I made my 302 with a lot used reconditioned parts. Made 445ft lbs at 4000rpm and 480 hp at 5900rpm. Super flat torque curve running 94 octane gas.
@@dennisrobinson8008 stock block and crankshaft. World products senior head ported. Srp flat tops, eagle rods and arp bolts(just because it was a local deal) Full roller 1.6 rockers, comp 987 springs, comp xe284hr cam.
@@jasonhooey5677 Yours runs strong!!! I had iron windsor jr heads slightly ported and gasket match on intake side back in 1997, milled to 10.25:1 cr on a 86 block with notched piston on intake side. It ran fine on 93 octane and 14 degrees initial timing and low 30's total. I had the weiand stealth intake, holley 650 dp, bbk 1 5/8" LT's into dual 2.5" exhaust and X pipe. 223@.05", .565" lift, 110lsa ultra dyne cam ( started with f303, but UD cam beat it by 25rwhp and better torque ). Back in those days guys were scared to run over 9.5:1 on the street... That car made 320rwhp and 340rwtq. With a vic jr and slightly bigger cam it made 365rwhp/335rwtq. The long runner cobra and gt40 intakes were making 320-350rwtq on a stick back in those days, so my combo was running good.
I got a 414 stroker with this intake just finishing the clean up n bowl polish on the heads.. thanks for the info n support....stock .060 over block... looking for the 700 hp mark with a solid roller cam with 11:3:1 comp and @ .255/267 duration time will tell...
@@dennisrobinson8008 still in the works after posting I change up some stuff before final assemble. changed the 2.02 int valves to 2.08 and milled head .007 and changed head gaskets to bring compression up to ( 12:1 ) I knew the motor needed larger valves. but motor's done now.. just spent this year on the car making it ready for the power plant . thanks for asking......
@ddcraun ,in the video he mentions not wanting to stick a lifter on start up an lubes the bores with a assembly lube after he did oil pan idk what yall are watching. cam had some heavy weight oil on it more than likely. guys fingers looked like they were a little oily when he was installing cam.. looks like a solid roller cam lifters they dont pump up like hydraulic lifters do . a lot of things were left out of the video . like bearing tolerances, crankshaft play, adjusting the rockers to spec . they try to keep it simple without making it along tedious technical video. they didnt show setting up ignition timing or cam degree to make sure it was set correctly .
Darrell H , it's not a how to video , it's a this is the parts we used for our giveaway build video with engine dyno numbers . anyway.. . lifter bores had lube an cylinder bores had lube before he stuck them in lol
The bores were lubed, the cam was obviously wet, usually a shop like this will pressurize an engine before startup... a portable pressure unit is easy to make with an old oil pump, drill, 5 gallon bucket and some oil line.
They cost so much aftermarket parts, labor& all7-10,000 on motor, and that was another article on a build alot like thid one & if you want to keep it , try starting with 351w less$ to go faster. . + its strokeable to ironic 460 ci..
This would not be a good engine for a heavy F-150, especially on the street. With a different intake and cam putting more power down lower it would be better.
Look at these heads, then look at the Blueprint HP9009 head, then look at the Skip White NKB head...Look familiar? Skip White is the only one who advertises these heads as being made in China and if you go to Alibaba, you can see which Chinese company makes them. I live in Thailand and built a few SBF with these exact heads, straight from China. I use American made Erson valves and springs on these heads and they run good right out of the box. I've used the Pro comps out of Australia, also cast in China, and these new heads are better than Pro comp.
That's a pretty cool build, but I feel like we're missing out on about 1000rpm of potential. I bet you could squeeze 600hp out of that thing in the future.
The comment about a stock 302 only being able to hold 500 hp safely for a consistent period of time is not true. Richard Holdener has proven on his channel and dedicated an entire episode to, what it would take to crack a stock 302 block. He owed and raced a 302 mustang with well over 500 horsepower consistently and proved that a stock block will run over 600 hp with no issues.
Missed it, what was compression and fuel used? My 347 did practically the same numbers, with mechanical water pump, carb, pump 93, custom cam, 9.5:1, @ 7000rpm max hp. I have a trick flow box R intake waiting for it with fuel injection, as well as a turbo. One of these days when this covid-19 is over and I get my job back ill drive the car, lol. At least I could hear it run for now, sick. Any ideas what I can make on pump 93 with a turbo? The Machine Shop said mid 700s to the wheel. But of course I was hoping for 8 to 850 😂 I would love to see a comparison between this and take and the trick flow box r
@@graemeelliott8576 It is unacceptable, I do not see one lasting as long as the one I have, which was manufactured in 1973, so no, I'll pass, you'd be better off trying to sell me Slick-50
I saw a video a few days ago where the builder used what essentially was a couple bridges that ties the two banks together in the lifter valley so the block didn't crack when power went over 500. I just wonder how effective those things really are.
Nick B cost effective yes. More reliable. Maybe. Depending on how you use it and if you’re trying to make more power than the notoriously weak block can handle. Power wise. We’ve all seen sbe and stock head coyotes make over 1,000 hp. Reliably probably handle 800 without sneezing. So I’d say the coyote wins in that dept. now a dart blocks 8.2 Windsor vs a stock coyote would be a good comparison. The coyote is expensive but so is a dart block...
Karl Hopkins reliability as far as a daily driver engine that’s bone stock and well maintained yes. But making over 500 horse the main webs will crack.
Like subbed and rang the bell before the video started I love these 5.0 builds thanks for the great content. A race block and solid lifters and omg what a beast she would be, nothing short of impressive 💪🤯👍
Awesome build and all, but the block just doesn't come close to allowing the rest of the build live up to its full potential. When a good aftermarket block is available for not a hole lot more than a stock block with all the machine work done, seems like a small percentage of the project price for a lot of insurance and piece of mind. Hate to crack that block and ruin all the other parts you just spent all that money on. Plus, I mean, come on. Who can hold themselves to a self imposed redline when your engine still is building power?
And a pre-1980 stock block is even more perfectly fine, as '80-'81 is when they wimped out the little Fords. Even Ford rated the earlier blocks good for 600+, and I've seen 'em live with it. I'd be happy to shove the guts and induction into my '74 block.
@@xmo552 It sure is. You would probably end up using "retro-fit" roller lifters, but all of the rest is good. I have a '68 block in my F100, and it is running EFI for a foxbody (BBK SSI), hydraulic roller cam and so on. I am running v-belts instead of serpentine, but I'm guessing a foxbody or similar timing cover and related stuff would let you stay with a serpentine belt, if that's what you wanted.
@@Zekais Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking of using an old block for my '88. I can live with a 2 piece rear main seal. Maybe I can have someone go south of the border and find me a heavy block. I appreciate you sharing that info.
I'm not a Ford guy but I like the stock block classes I would like to throw one together with some bad ass lighter weight rods and pistons and good crank 331ci half fill the block brace that sucker up. Some hoged out edelbrock vic Jrs solid roller cam that Holley high ram 102mm TB and throw in a bad ass light weight fox or SN95 stang that's ready to go mid 4s and throw single turbo kit together with a forced Inductions garret 80mm t6 turbo and give it hell and get that stock block record and run it on methanol
Damned nice, no two ways about it,
BUT the ULTIMATE stock block small block is the 351W stroked to 427 cu in.
Big block power in a small block package, and small block weight.
indeed brother
Increasing the stroke limits the max rpm potential because pistons speed increases.. personally I prefer high rpm medium displacement 302 to 358 cubic inches. Big displacement and high hp are easy compared to high rpm and high hp per cubic inch.. just my 2c they are all cool in my book.
@marktse8732 personally if I had the budget I would go for 9000rpm IMO that is the minimum rpm for a v8 to be considered a high rpm motor. Torque 400 to 500 would be enough because my classic car (capri perana)is a light European car. I think my power goals are a bit expensive to reach but they are achievable. I have seen yates headed fords that have the numbers I am after..700hp 9000rpm 302 to 358 cubic inch.. as for the 2jz, great engines but I am obsesed with old sbf, here in Europe they are rarity and sound amazing.
I'd love to put that in my dads 95 tbird. Which I now have in my garage all original car. Dad and i always talked about a terminator motor in her but that'll move it too. I miss you ol man.
Me too! Lost my ole timer in july of 2019 almost 40 yrs to the day that I lost mom. He’d love that lil small block ford!
Do it up man, it'll really do his memory justice, also, it would be the ultimate sleeper
Impressed with the Prestige Heads. Just watched a Power Nation build on a 347 and they used AFR's 205's and their power numbers were just a little better than these.
Another great video from THE HORSEPOWER MONSTER ! An excellent production featuring a superstar in the ever expanding 302W Universe. This combination of components was obviously well balanced according to the story told by the dyno. The most notable components are the aluminum heads from PRESTIGE MOTORSPORTS.
They are the center of attraction and topped with the Holley EFI Hi-Ram Intake, clearly demonstrates the meaning of form and function.
Well done, guys.
And the beat goes on.....
Finally a good looking intake.
Rodcognito 00 looks like an LS lol
You nailed it. This is the best looking FI intake on the market. It's just a matter of building intake ducting and a custom air cleaner box.
@@calvinlamontagne8958 it’s an intake.. no LS every cam with a high ram intake lmao... gotta love LS guys
Would this work on an 89 bronco 302 ?
@@dustinmittel348 yes
I like the plumbing fernco on the air intake in the dyno room.
That engine would look awesome in my 94 Cobra!
Oh yeah!
That would be sick!!!! With some kooks headers and 3” exhaust
500 hp limit is a myth. It’s all in the tune!
How does the tune keep the block splitting in the galley underneath the intake ??
No detonation/knock in the tune. My car is well over 500hp at the wheels and it’s been together for years.
@@DaOnE51T I'd like to learn more about your tips for keeping the block together. I'm researching to build a 302/306/331 for a road race vehicle I play with. I only need about 375 hp flywheel, but need 7000 RPM or a touch higher.
@@chestrockwell8328 I have had a 306 two 347 and a couple 351 engines....Currently have a 331 it's great on the street have had it about 3 years...The only ones I have had problems with wear the 347s one cracked block and one threw a rod out the side of the block both had about 400 miles on them...
@@joenobody2580 Exactly... Dart block or no block.
I like how you describe in detail, absolutely stunning job.
I'd cut a hole in my hood in a minute for that!
I was thinking the same thing
Must suck to have to do that. This engine would fit in my '57 F100 and still have almost 12" from the top of the intake to the the bottom of my hood. hahahhahah
Fits under the bubble cowl hood
Most foxbody's have a cowl fiberglass hood anyways. My 351W fits fine.
Love that intake manifold. I'd trade my systemax for it. 331 stroker, main girdle, valley pro girdle really good PAC valve springs and some trick lifters. Send that thing to the Moon and back like 7k plus rpm on a whim
Uh no, it will soon come apart in glorious fashion...
You're going to need a solid roller cam to achieve that goal
The engine builder has evidently built more engines that we could count.
Sorry, but I'm from Brazil and, however prejudice some may be with the people here, I would love to see this engine on my Ltd / Landau 75 Galaxie platform. Currently with 302 praying to be able to raise some money and put something of this level in a car that should come with this factory setting. Fingers crossed and cheering to win this piece of art
I'm not sure if that would be the right look for my T bucket but I might be able to drop it and just for a weekend or 2
I enjoyed this video a lot because my 347 is a very similar combo except it's carbureted and I made similar power. Biggest difference between the two is my dual plane performer rpm intake versus the tunnel ram.
ruclips.net/video/P2V0-2ePwek/видео.html
Got a 347 in my fox, 93 notchback. Had it since I was a kid. Prob hold on to it for a long long time.
I have a 89 and a 91, the 91 Ive had since i was 21 in 91,lol,they will probably bury me in that car and I'm not really kidding,lol
That is a beast of a small block! Very nice build! Great job!
i need one of these for my mountaineer. ohh that'd be fun as hell!
Richard Holdner would say let's test it and other 5 manifolds aswell! Lol!
Havent missed a single video since he started his page.
Love the detail that's provided in their videos. Top notch
This narrator sounds like the one of the guys from Powernation , Tommy Boshers.
His name is Jeff Honeycutt
If those guys would have put it together, it would have made like 375 hp lol.. those guys suck at motor building
Wow I’ve been trying to save for sometime for a new engine from them that’s perfect for my fox I love the intake
They run great on the top end and make a big visual statement. I'm with you. Besides the performance they just look killer. Thanks for watching.
this would go great in my 84 datsun, to replace the warmed 5.0 from an explorer currently installed
Perhaps a girdle in the crankcase would help hold it together. A time bomb without one. That engine should be making 600 HP without a sneeze.
Girdle just holds shit together when it splits. And it will split.
Robert Davis Dart block .
347 with real power = split OEM block
One day, my old '72 F100 will have something this flawless.
Afr heads would Make 540 I bet
That Intake manifold is bad ass
Gotta give holley credit for still producing innovative intakes for the ole pushrod 5.0. I'd daily the shit outa that engine in my 94 mustang lol.
Agreed. It would make a Mustang a ton of fun. Thanks for watching!
Nice build and Love that dyno curve!!!
That will make a Mustang fly!!
I’ve got Paxton blown 331 stock block with just under 600 hp to the wheels and I’ve put a lot of hard miles on it including road course racing on the weekends and I still haven’t broken mine so myself and a lot of other 5 L owners Will argue with you about that 500 hp number
That's great to hear
Block is definitely the weak link.
I only run 400hp in my 5.0L however the new one will be a custom block for pure circuit racing duty.
@@mctigmctiggy1475 no street driving, just track
You can make the older 302 blocks strong. I know several guys running 5.0 8th mile et with stock blocks. One is a turbo car the other nitrous but he is going turbo as well.
true but this block and cast steel crank will be fine for short bursts like a 1/4 mile street strip. circuit racing as the the guy puts it?
no, you need a forged rotating assembly and a dart block or yes you WILL crack it
@Raymond Denno what were doing with it? Because big blocks can survive 700hp na on a stock bottom end. They do all the time in pure stock and super stock classes. they are strong as hell
That's a nice revving motor. I made my 302 with a lot used reconditioned parts. Made 445ft lbs at 4000rpm and 480 hp at 5900rpm.
Super flat torque curve running 94 octane gas.
Combo?
@@dennisrobinson8008 stock block and crankshaft. World products senior head ported. Srp flat tops, eagle rods and arp bolts(just because it was a local deal)
Full roller 1.6 rockers, comp 987 springs, comp xe284hr cam.
@@jasonhooey5677 445tq on the 302? That's very good. You must have had a good amount of compression, 11:1 on iron or 12:1 on aluminum?
@@dennisrobinson8008 correct, 230 psi cranking compression. Iron heads with work on the chambers.
@@jasonhooey5677 Yours runs strong!!! I had iron windsor jr heads slightly ported and gasket match on intake side back in 1997, milled to 10.25:1 cr on a 86 block with notched piston on intake side. It ran fine on 93 octane and 14 degrees initial timing and low 30's total. I had the weiand stealth intake, holley 650 dp, bbk 1 5/8" LT's into dual 2.5" exhaust and X pipe. 223@.05", .565" lift, 110lsa ultra dyne cam ( started with f303, but UD cam beat it by 25rwhp and better torque ). Back in those days guys were scared to run over 9.5:1 on the street... That car made 320rwhp and 340rwtq. With a vic jr and slightly bigger cam it made 365rwhp/335rwtq. The long runner cobra and gt40 intakes were making 320-350rwtq on a stick back in those days, so my combo was running good.
I got a 414 stroker with this intake just finishing the clean up n bowl polish on the heads.. thanks for the info n support....stock .060 over block... looking for the 700 hp mark with a solid roller cam with 11:3:1 comp and @ .255/267 duration time will tell...
Sounds like a fun build. Good luck!
how did it turn out?
@@dennisrobinson8008 still in the works after posting I change up some stuff before final assemble. changed the 2.02 int valves to 2.08 and milled head .007 and changed head gaskets to bring compression up to ( 12:1 ) I knew the motor needed larger valves. but motor's done now.. just spent this year on the car making it ready for the power plant . thanks for asking......
would love to have a tricked 302 Windsor, in my families F😕x 89 gt...
Sweet Engine nice video of the build process
That's so purdy
Did I just watch those lifters go in DRY!?!?
Perks of NOT using antique flat tappet stuff...
02autogt still, dry bores. Can't remember if it was a hydraulic or solid cam, but a hydraulic cam should have the lifters soaked beforehand
@ddcraun ,in the video he mentions not wanting to stick a lifter on start up an lubes the bores with a assembly lube after he did oil pan idk what yall are watching. cam had some heavy weight oil on it more than likely. guys fingers looked like they were a little oily when he was installing cam.. looks like a solid roller cam lifters they dont pump up like hydraulic lifters do . a lot of things were left out of the video . like bearing tolerances, crankshaft play, adjusting the rockers to spec . they try to keep it simple without making it along tedious technical video. they didnt show setting up ignition timing or cam degree to make sure it was set correctly .
Darrell H , it's not a how to video , it's a this is the parts we used for our giveaway build video with engine dyno numbers . anyway.. . lifter bores had lube an cylinder bores had lube before he stuck them in lol
The bores were lubed, the cam was obviously wet, usually a shop like this will pressurize an engine before startup... a portable pressure unit is easy to make with an old oil pump, drill, 5 gallon bucket and some oil line.
Love the road race intake...rev it baby.
NICE BUILD, BUT I THINK I WOULD WANT THE INJECTORS CLOSER TO THE INTAKE VALVES. LESS TRAVEL OF ATOMIZED FUEL MAKES FOR BETTER FUEL ECONOMY.
My Santa dream would be a 52cc option , perhaps with less unsurprising off the intake valves surroundings
I win this engine I'll buy one of many mustangs advertised in my local area,drop her in and ride in style.
That would fit nicely in my rusty 93 F150 and pull my 72 Chris Craft down to the Ohio river with no problems.
C T that's an expensive boat
Why not put it in your Chris Craft?
I'd like to see what it would do in my 2500 lb 66 mustang coupe!
That is a bad ass sbf 5.0!!!
love it. Great flat TQ curve too.
Drop right into my ‘04 F150 STX...
Would love this in my 2010 King Ranch f-150!!
They cost so much aftermarket parts, labor& all7-10,000 on motor, and that was another article on a build alot like thid one & if you want to keep it , try starting with 351w less$ to go faster. . + its strokeable to ironic 460 ci..
Even if you spend 10k on it its still better thsn 10k on a 3 valve
This would not be a good engine for a heavy F-150, especially on the street. With a different intake and cam putting more power down lower it would be better.
@sdvten. With more torque then, my current setup has a bit more torque than the horsepower spec.
Why would you even bother doing such a thing?
Bumbed I missed out on a chance to win this fir my 65 mustang. Well maybe next time guys tnx fir sharing this sweet setup
Little surprised Holly didn't criss cross the runners so they could run a lower upper plenum to fit under hood.
Interesting and exciting with Prestige coming out with their own heads. I pray they aren't sourcing them from China.
Look at these heads, then look at the Blueprint HP9009 head, then look at the Skip White NKB head...Look familiar? Skip White is the only one who advertises these heads as being made in China and if you go to Alibaba, you can see which Chinese company makes them. I live in Thailand and built a few SBF with these exact heads, straight from China. I use American made Erson valves and springs on these heads and they run good right out of the box. I've used the Pro comps out of Australia, also cast in China, and these new heads are better than Pro comp.
Wow, I need to get one. But I think a aftermarket block is what I need
I entered, hoping to stab this into my 66 Mustang Coupe. Odds are seriously against me, but ya never know!
Good luck!
@@TheHorsepowerMonster much appreciated.
I never understand people wasting their money on a stock block
Made my day :)
That's a pretty cool build, but I feel like we're missing out on about 1000rpm of potential. I bet you could squeeze 600hp out of that thing in the future.
The factory block doesnt handle much over 500hp reliably
Timothy Voight With std crankshaft - the oem crank webs are soft and they flex under high load, essentially causing the block to crack.
Luke Walker it’s a bit more than that bro 😀
Would really love to see a gen2 LT1 build!
i have a light weight foxbody you can put that in...
Another great video, thank you!
Thanks!
Love to put this in my 87 foxbody coupe
I would like to see you do a 351W ...with a goal of 600 HP.
That would be fun!
sweepstakes specifies you only have till November 30th to enter not December 2nd that is when the winner will be announced
What about doing this to the 5.8 ?
Love to put that baby in my 94 gmc pick up. The 350 in it from the factory is the biggest turd I've ever seen.
I wanna see that in my 91 f-150
243/249 duration on 110 LSA…dang
That is freakin awesome!!!!
Motor looks wicked
Can that motor be dropped in a ford truck?
The 110 LSA is pretty good but that duration seems a little rough for a 347.
I wish they would have done a little work with oil drainage. A little chamfering does wonders.
Super nice
"this motor will fit in alot of different vehicles" puts a high ram intake on it
I want this engine build in my 92 lariat so bad I want to make it a sleeper truck
The comment about a stock 302 only being able to hold 500 hp safely for a consistent period of time is not true. Richard Holdener has proven on his channel and dedicated an entire episode to, what it would take to crack a stock 302 block. He owed and raced a 302 mustang with well over 500 horsepower consistently and proved that a stock block will run over 600 hp with no issues.
Missed it, what was compression and fuel used? My 347 did practically the same numbers, with mechanical water pump, carb, pump 93, custom cam, 9.5:1, @ 7000rpm max hp. I have a trick flow box R intake waiting for it with fuel injection, as well as a turbo. One of these days when this covid-19 is over and I get my job back ill drive the car, lol. At least I could hear it run for now, sick. Any ideas what I can make on pump 93 with a turbo? The Machine Shop said mid 700s to the wheel. But of course I was hoping for 8 to 850 😂
I would love to see a comparison between this and take and the trick flow box r
Your videos are really high quality content.
Greetings from Poland.
Hey, thanks very much! It's always nice to hear a kind word. And thanks for watching!
Lifters can be put in with the heads on. I've done it many times.
Yes... False facts given there... He must be a LS guy thinking it's an LS...lol
I need a 302 for my van, but never would touch a 347, do not like the oil control ring so close to the pin.
Maples01 they have that sorted with steel insert . Not an issue with mine . CP pistons 5.4 rod .
@@graemeelliott8576 It is unacceptable, I do not see one lasting as long as the one I have, which was manufactured in 1973, so no, I'll pass, you'd be better off trying to sell me Slick-50
331!
very impressive power!
Cool build. I wonder just how much power this combo could make if the block didn't limit your rpm?
I saw a video a few days ago where the builder used what essentially was a couple bridges that ties the two banks together in the lifter valley so the block didn't crack when power went over 500. I just wonder how effective those things really are.
@@jmurphy1973 they're useful to help holding on the guts when it cracks. Plenty more people making well past 500 WHEEL without them.
This build would make a good vs coyote swap video. Is it as reliable? Is it as fast? Is it more cost effective?
Nick B cost effective yes. More reliable. Maybe. Depending on how you use it and if you’re trying to make more power than the notoriously weak block can handle. Power wise. We’ve all seen sbe and stock head coyotes make over 1,000 hp. Reliably probably handle 800 without sneezing. So I’d say the coyote wins in that dept. now a dart blocks 8.2 Windsor vs a stock coyote would be a good comparison. The coyote is expensive but so is a dart block...
Idk about this one, but old pushrod 302s have done 1 million miles without being opened.
Karl Hopkins reliability as far as a daily driver engine that’s bone stock and well maintained yes. But making over 500 horse the main webs will crack.
Should have used a main girdle in it and then take to Max rpm!
That camshaft and lifters looked to be installed dry?
Larry brushes assembly lube on each of the cam bearings in the block before installing the cam.
would of been nice if you gave a parts list for this! Not just brand names
BEcause most of us could not afford it.
With That intake your going to need a 4" plus cowl
Or no hood at all!
Like subbed and rang the bell before the video started I love these 5.0 builds thanks for the great content. A race block and solid lifters and omg what a beast she would be, nothing short of impressive 💪🤯👍
Thanks for subscribing, and I'm glad you liked the video!
I got a 67 mustang this would be perfect for!
I'd love to own one of those.
Awesome build and all, but the block just doesn't come close to allowing the rest of the build live up to its full potential. When a good aftermarket block is available for not a hole lot more than a stock block with all the machine work done, seems like a small percentage of the project price for a lot of insurance and piece of mind. Hate to crack that block and ruin all the other parts you just spent all that money on. Plus, I mean, come on. Who can hold themselves to a self imposed redline when your engine still is building power?
Stock block is perfectly fine just dont go over 549 hp 😎
And a pre-1980 stock block is even more perfectly fine, as '80-'81 is when they wimped out the little Fords. Even Ford rated the earlier blocks good for 600+, and I've seen 'em live with it. I'd be happy to shove the guts and induction into my '74 block.
@@Zekais
Is it possible to run an old/early block dressed with a roller and efi fox body stuff?
@@xmo552 It sure is. You would probably end up using "retro-fit" roller lifters, but all of the rest is good. I have a '68 block in my F100, and it is running EFI for a foxbody (BBK SSI), hydraulic roller cam and so on. I am running v-belts instead of serpentine, but I'm guessing a foxbody or similar timing cover and related stuff would let you stay with a serpentine belt, if that's what you wanted.
@@Zekais
Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking of using an old block for my '88. I can live with a 2 piece rear main seal. Maybe I can have someone go south of the border and find me a heavy block. I appreciate you sharing that info.
What year block is this compared to I have been looking for a new intake setup for a 96 5.0 I'm building
Why stroke a 302 to 347 when you could start with a 351?
Shorter deck height.
I'm not a Ford guy but I like the stock block classes I would like to throw one together with some bad ass lighter weight rods and pistons and good crank 331ci half fill the block brace that sucker up. Some hoged out edelbrock vic Jrs solid roller cam that Holley high ram 102mm TB and throw in a bad ass light weight fox or SN95 stang that's ready to go mid 4s and throw single turbo kit together with a forced Inductions garret 80mm t6 turbo and give it hell and get that stock block record and run it on methanol
What lifters were those? I have swapped many a stock roller cam out while the heads were still on.
I was saying the same thing never had to remove the head on any 302 roller motor I've messed with
It made me cringe to see them not soak the lifters in oil
Why did he put the camshaft in dry without Lube in the lobes and the bearing surfaces
Did I miss it? I didn't once hear what the compression was?
Who is the engine builder? Verry cool guy👍👍
Sensacional! Uma verdadeira aula!