I wish I could post a picture. The manual for my Farmall H shows that when filled properly. If you were to take the core out with the tire standing and valve at top, no fluid would come out. That’s what they called the proper air space.
They said that they have not had issues with the valve stems and recommended against it. I have read both ways for and it didn't matter. So I just went with their recommendations. Time will tell.
I noticed that when your tire was on the ground, and you placed the starter weight onto the threaded rod, the weight sat down tight against the rim. Did it do that when you installed it after the tire was mounted? I just installed the spacers, and it seems that the weight sits on the end of the studs as they protrude around a quarter inch further that the original bolts did. Have you noticed this also? I'm worried that the weight won't be secure sitting on the studs.
Mine sits on the studs also, I have not had an issue with the wheel weights moving noticeably. If this were on my old off road buggy I would be concerned due to the higher speeds involved. Any vehicle that you would basically have the tires balanced for longevity for example.. However the only thing that I am trying to watch on the occasions that I happen to remove the weights is the wear on the end of the stud itself. My thoughts are the weight is cast iron and the stud should be hardened steel so the weight should take the wear. I have no proof to actually back up this theory. The first thing you can do is actually contact Bro-Tek or who ever made your spacer and ask them. Maybe they could install a slightly shorter stud. But not sure what would happen with your shipping cost. A machinist could cut down the end of the stud while using cooling fluid to protect the heat treatment on the stud itself. However unless you know one personally that would involve some cost as well. I have a video where I installed the spacers that I will link at the end of this response so you can see how much mine sit off the rim itself. If I do detect wear on the studs I will probably see if I can find a nut at the hardware store that will just cover the end of the stud so the wheel weight rides on it. I will email Bro-Tek and see what they have to say about it. Once I get the response I will pass on the information. ruclips.net/video/v2itJjXNF-Q/видео.html I'll do a video response next week after I get a response from bro-tek.
@@marvindiamonjr.9631 quick note. They replied that the newer 1.4" spacer gives clearance for both mower decks. Also they suggest adding a normal nut to the stud to protect it. M12x1.25. I still plan on a video update for this next week.
I wish I could post a picture. The manual for my Farmall H shows that when filled properly. If you were to take the core out with the tire standing and valve at top, no fluid would come out. That’s what they called the proper air space.
Interesting, thanks for the information!
Good thinking there
What did they say about metal valve stems?
They said that they have not had issues with the valve stems and recommended against it. I have read both ways for and it didn't matter. So I just went with their recommendations. Time will tell.
@@AaronsRAdventures thanks
I'd want mine to weigh close to the same also. Doesn't seem like the guys who did yours were professionals.
I noticed that when your tire was on the ground, and you placed the starter weight onto the threaded rod, the weight sat down tight against the rim. Did it do that when you installed it after the tire was mounted? I just installed the spacers, and it seems that the weight sits on the end of the studs as they protrude around a quarter inch further that the original bolts did. Have you noticed this also? I'm worried that the weight won't be secure sitting on the studs.
Mine sits on the studs also, I have not had an issue with the wheel weights moving noticeably. If this were on my old off road buggy I would be concerned due to the higher speeds involved. Any vehicle that you would basically have the tires balanced for longevity for example.. However the only thing that I am trying to watch on the occasions that I happen to remove the weights is the wear on the end of the stud itself. My thoughts are the weight is cast iron and the stud should be hardened steel so the weight should take the wear. I have no proof to actually back up this theory. The first thing you can do is actually contact Bro-Tek or who ever made your spacer and ask them. Maybe they could install a slightly shorter stud. But not sure what would happen with your shipping cost. A machinist could cut down the end of the stud while using cooling fluid to protect the heat treatment on the stud itself. However unless you know one personally that would involve some cost as well. I have a video where I installed the spacers that I will link at the end of this response so you can see how much mine sit off the rim itself. If I do detect wear on the studs I will probably see if I can find a nut at the hardware store that will just cover the end of the stud so the wheel weight rides on it. I will email Bro-Tek and see what they have to say about it. Once I get the response I will pass on the information.
ruclips.net/video/v2itJjXNF-Q/видео.html
I'll do a video response next week after I get a response from bro-tek.
@@AaronsRAdventures Thanks! I see you have everything well in hand.
@@marvindiamonjr.9631 quick note. They replied that the newer 1.4" spacer gives clearance for both mower decks. Also they suggest adding a normal nut to the stud to protect it. M12x1.25. I still plan on a video update for this next week.
Where did you get those wheel weights?
www.bro-tek.com/wheel_spacers/
They work great and I have had no issues so far.
Opps misread that, the wheel weights were from john deere. 70 lb cast inner and 50 lbs cast outer. You can add another 50 lb per side if you wish.
60 some bucks for rim guard? One place told me $260 I said forget it.
Wow, was that price taking the tires to them?
@@AaronsRAdventures Yep. Going to check others this week, my backup plan is antifreeze or window washer fluid.
That's nuts. Good luck.
My Kubota sealer charged me $175 for the pair, but I have much larger tires on my 2650. I felt that was reasonable