How to Screed for a Paver Patio | Tips from a Professional
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2022
- On today's video, we discuss how to screed for a paver patio. Really this is all about setting the bedding layer to be able to lay pavers, slabs, natural stone, whatever it may be. This involves using string line to set the grades and screed bars to be able to screed for this bedding layer.
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How you do things and your narrative are so good. Such a valuable talent you have. Thank you s much for the videos.
I appreciate that! Thank you
Just wanna say your videos helped me so much for my own projects and videos last summer and this summer. I can’t believe I just now get this method with the string line measurement to the screed rails. I should have done that! Lol. Second time watching this. I appreciate the details
I’m glad the videos help!
Thank you for this video, I learned a lot and hope to use it in an upcoming project.
Thank you for watching and commenting! Hope it helps
very very, very well explained
Thank you!
nicely done buddy, love the video!
Thank you!
It really did help. I've been out of hardscape for 15yrs, now been asked to do it again. Nice to know I won't look stupid doing it like the old trimmers schooled me 40 years ago. Here, I am just using a string line and a level
haha glad it helped!
In my 30s I realized softscape was way less back breaking work. We didn't have buggies. Ground floor was ( Brick Boy ) carry brick into the backyard all day.@iamahardscaper
@@iamahardscaperwe lost our stone guy at the end of last year.l helped finish off the project, No more shaddy lake front homes to maintain 😢
Thank you for your video
Thank you!
Thank you!
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Thanks!
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Screed the top base layer too👍
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Nice work. Gas pipes would have been nice vs PVC I used, which follow waves in a patio base. Took a ton of work to get my compacted base super flat and perfectly graded. I also noticed that the larger your patio is, it gets way way harder. Every transition between one 10x10 section where I was screening had slight unevenness, so I ended up using more screed pipes to cover my patio base in a screeding grid, but that made moving sand around difficult etc etc. Everything was a series of tradeoffs. It's way harder than it looks! I also found the Klein digital level amazing, I could set it on a piece of straight 3" PVC or whatever I had, to ascertain grade over longer distances. My patio was about 30x20.
Definitely some challenges along the way with any project
I agree, i used pvc on a long straight walkway. At certain angles, you can see the waves in it, and it drives me nuts, I'm doing a patio now ill definitely be using galvanized tubing
Ilove it a lot and want to lean more about it
Thank you!
Thanks for this. What’s the determining factor in using mason sand versus quarter inch gravel as a setting bed? Additionally, do you compact the setting bed before laying pavers? Thx
This patio was going to be laid tight. So using concrete sand allows it to come from the bottom up through the joint to meet the jointing compound. 1/4” chip doesn’t work well for tight joints.
Another excellent video!
How do you recommend the finishing to be done around the perimeter. Will you just install edging and trim the excess woven fabric and cover the exposed base next the pavers area with top soil? Or will you somehow try to wrap the fabric under the edging to reduce mixing/percolation of the topsoil into the base material? Any suggestions/recommendations?
Here we cut back the fabric and installed topsoil on the exposed base. Typically I try to wrap the fabric toward the edge restraint and then install topsoil on top. But that’s easier to do when you are working with a nonwoven geotextile and pavers which are thicker than these 1” slabs.
I appreciate your detailed answer. Thanks!
Thx for your videos and podcast, I see allot of zip level uses in America. Is there a reason you don't use a laser?
For larger projects I’d use a laser. I just find for something like this it’s easy to just use the zip level.
Love all the DIY thinking their ready for this. Enjoy just the digging will make you question your decision
Yeah the digging is the first thing that will have people questioning
I could probably free hand that with a level. Whatever works though, we do things a bit differently in Australia. Interesting to see different methods, I have a screed coming up that is similar to that
Some people do that here as well. I'm not good enough to eye it free hand
@@iamahardscaper Your work is amazing!! and your channel too, I always want to learn more same as you. Free handing is a lot of fun. I got good at that from doing a lot of small fix ups. It can be super helpful for certain situations and although I could free hand a pad like that. It would still be quicker with the rails. I really admire your passion for your craft bud. Awesome work
Really appreciate that!
You a damn Hardscaping Wizard Man !!!!! Thamis
👍👍🙏
Im doing 2 by 4 bluestone should I use one inch of sand like you did here or 2 inches like I read also is sand the way to go or stone dust? Its a 10 by 22 patio next to a pool so it would save quite a bit of material? I would appreciate your help? Im in CT. Great video.
I'd always opt for sand over stone dust. For a bedding layer I'd prefer not to go over 1.5 inches.
How did you establish grade for compacted gravel? It looked like it had alot of variation. Also, this is a good vid for beginners but can you do one that is more complicated? I do many than have twists in the grade or curves including multiple shapes. Well done tho! Any thoughts to using open grade material? I hear that is the new thing.
The same way, the variation was topped up with and compacted. Maybe should have spent more time in doing so. But a laser works best.
I have a video coming out today that will somewhat deal with what you are talking about with multiple slopes, but I will definitely make a video to get into that deeper.
Love open graded base. I definitely prefer it. That or synthetic base.
We also compact the bedding before screeding it and only then fit pipes/flat strips on it, leveling it with the line by digging in two pieces of flat metal as beacons at the beginning and the end of each future strip. then we put the strip's edge on the beacons and screed off some place to put it perfectly alligned and so on. Any thoughts?
Interesting. We don't like to compact the bedding layer because it is just 1" and the compaction is minimal especially when using HPB (not concrete sand), but also because when we compact the pavers we want that bedding layer to work its way up into the bottom of the joints. You wont get that same movement if it is compacted.
the video regards that topic would be very interesting!@rdscaper
In our full length we how to install pavers video we cover that, along with a couple other videos. But I could definitely make a full video on that this season
Hi there! Thanks for the helpful video. Quick questions… 1). Could you use hpb for the entire screening base right down to the sub soil? 8-10”
2) if so, would you compact the hpb before laying the pavers?
3). How do you compact on top of the pavers once laid without risking breaking the pavers? Working with 1.25” granite slabs 2x3 ft
Thanks
1) I wouldn’t. It is only meant to be a screed layer. But I know guys that do for pedestrian traffic projects.
2) I wouldn’t do it.
3) I would definitely use a paver roller for slabs that size. Other compactors will definitely crack those slabs.
Paver Roller Compactor Review
ruclips.net/video/CK1VFL--z9k/видео.html
Thanks so much I appreciate the quick reply! Any idea where I might rent a ‘paver roller compactor’ in Toronto? In exploring online I’m only finding the plate compactors
Ohh that’s a great question. I would call local rental companies or reach out directly to MQuip. They might rent. You can also contact Weber and Bartell Global and see if they have rental shops nearby for their rollers
For a paver/interocking base Don’t use limestone screenings or any granular with sand in it. You will need to tamp it and it will still settle no matter how much you pack it. Use a quarter inch clear stone called at the quarry (1/4 chip) or at landscape supply yards called HPB (high performance base) or pipe bedding etc. it has many names as Dufferin owns the rights to the original product name)
Yes that is a great alternative. But only for a bedding layer. You’d need a 3/4” angular crushed clean stone under that for the base.
@@iamahardscaper I guess he didni't listen to you in the video...
In my opinion, using “A gravel” for your base and wetting it before you tamp it is the best base.
What you you tie the line to in the corners? Are those the same pipes you use to screed?
no they are just concrete spikes
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3/8 " is hard to find here in Florida.
Yeah I’ve heard that it is
What are used for screed rails? Is the bedding layer 1 inch? If so a 1” pipe would be too large, correct?
3/4" steel gas pipes. outside diameter is 1" though. they work great
Hey buddy.quick question.do u tamp your pavers at the very end?
I tamp them after sweeping in the polymeric sand with a protective pad or using a roller tamper
Can I place a 6 man hot tub on pavers if I have 1” of screeding and 6” of 3/4 gravel underneath?
No it should be placed on a poured concrete pad
@@iamahardscaper
Thanks for the quick response! I appreciate it.
How did you get the base below the bedding sand to be perfectly grade and level?
If your using string lines, measure down from them throughout in various spots. If you have a laser level or altimeter you can use them to measure areas and top them up or rake them down.
You don't. Just get it roughly level.
Then obsess over the level and flatness of your sand
Ara ya Gonna compact the sand layer ? Looked as if the base layer wasn’t that’s level ?
Compacted once the slabs are laid
What’s the diff in using regular sand u get at Lowe’s vs concrete sand?
If it is just regular play sand, it will not be as good for drainage. The fines will suspend and block water flow through eventually
You dont really want water draining through pavers, thats why you fall the pavers to a drain... water under pavers will ruin the job in no time. Most paving contractors on small jobs like use poly sand which inhibits drainage anyway. Water should flow off pavers into a drain (strip drain, pit etc) at all times.
A laser is way faster. Set your strings to your marked stakes. Pull your numbers from the string.
Yup
If you need to prop a screed pole up to achieve grade/slope, I guess that just means you need to add more base material, correct? Otherwise you'd have more than 1" of bedding material? Ideally you should always be hammering the screed pole down to set final grade/slope, right?
Yup true. whether hammering down or propping up, it should be fairly consistent. No more than 1.5" for the screed layer.
@@iamahardscaper thank you your videos are extremely helpful
Glad you enjoy them 👍
Why are some patios cemented down and some placed like this? Whats the difference and how do i determine what my garden would need? Thanks in advance
Difference in installer preference and the application. Here is a video we made on that:
ruclips.net/video/Zn8eODTY-QI/видео.html
@@iamahardscaper thanks for your speedy reply will give a watch and a thumbs up on both vids
Do you need to stamp the screeded area?
nope, that comes when compacting the pavers into the bedding layer with jointing compound
Boom goes the dynamite
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1/4" per foot seems heavy in person. Is 1/2-5/8" per 4ft not acceptable?
I wouldn't go less than 1/8" per foot slope. So yes what you put there is acceptable.
Did you place pavers directly onto the sand or use paver base panels
This was a traditional base and we actually had to dig to about 24” because of a tree stump. So we did not use the base panels
@@iamahardscaper thank you
Hi what is the Brand of the level system?
This one is called the ULevel, but it is the same as the Smart Level
Is concrete a good base?
It is an additional step, but I know a few contractors that use concrete as the base. You’d have to be a good concrete installer plus a good interlock installer and have drain holes in the concrete with proper overlay install practices.
Thanks Mike for the great video, very few videos on RUclips talking about screeding in depth, most just gloss over the specifics. Next time try wearing a Hawaiian shirt and running shoes for a more professional look.
I’ll try to sneak in some flip flops in a future video 👍👍
This video shows why some people get nothing done.
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I wanted this to be shown I saw it and now I know what to do and I skipped parts of vid. Thanks for the vid now I can continue my yard work
After screeding how do you access to lay the 1st stone?
If it is tight, just screed a small portion and then lay. Then go back to screeding the next portion and so on until you get to a point where you can screed a larger area with access
@@iamahardscaper also one more question, why do we have to slope both way? Can we slope it only one way, and it is sloping away from the house?
Yup, in this example I just sloped it both ways to match the grade better.
@@iamahardscaper can you also share on how to build a staircase. I see you got the Timelapse but no indetailz
I will add that to a list of videos to make, but in the meantime here are two videos that touch on it:
ruclips.net/video/f5HD0s9c7Vk/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/6728Jun3JQY/видео.html
Why did the fact that you were laying the pavers tight, and using 3/4 minus gravel, prevent you from using 1/4" chip stone? Why is it not optimal to mix the base of a traditional base with the bedding of an open graded base, and vice versa?
When laying tight or pavers with tight joints I typically like to use concrete sand as my bedding layer because it is fine enough to move up through the joint which provides interlock. 1/4” chip is too large. This video explains further:
ruclips.net/video/eq0kQUSS__Y/видео.html
I would use a 1/4” chip on top of a dense graded base. But in this case the product dictated concrete sand as a bedding layer and you can’t use an open graded base material with that.
@@iamahardscaper Thank you, that makes sense now.
I have often done rock dust on top of 3/4" clear. Do you know if sand would work in place of rock dust here, or do you think it would sink in?
rock dust being like stone dust / screenings? 1/4" chip down to fines?
I think over time any sand / fines will migrate into the 3/4" whether through water being introduced to the system or traffic on top.
@@iamahardscaper Thank you, that makes sense. I appreciate your insight!
but u can do 1/8 inch per foot
For sure 👍
Perfect though time consuming
Perfection takes time
Seems like you made this more complicated than it needed to be
Or very detailed with the steps for those new to it 👍
You screeded the area but you didn't compensate for the compaction of the concrete sand of a quarter inch per every 1 inch ????? Why not ?????this must mean your patio will be at least 1 inch lower as it looks like you using 2 inches of concrete sand .....
Just an inch of sand. And if you look at the tape measure it takes into factor that. Just for explanation purposes I say 1 inch bedding layer + 1 inch slab because it is easier to comprehend for a beginner. Then I explain the 1/4” additional. 👍
I am lost....
What can I help with 👍
Very good information, but a bit hard to watch. The erratic videography makes me a bit sick. Some calmer movements and less handheld would make this excellent. 👍
Appreciate the feedback!
You need to get yourself a rotary laser level you’ll save yourself time
I’ve got one. Used string lines on this for some videos we are putting together
all that drama? just use a grade level
This worked 👍
Im sure you can just eyeball it too, who needs a level…
For this method your base needs to be PERFECT. Make a base, then put 20mm crushed blue metal on it. use a screed with a spirit level in it to get your heights. Lay metal strips in the lines and screed away. Why do people do this shit so much harder than need be? The round pipes just leave big holes that you need to fix later cost you time.
I’d need to see a video of how you’re doing it
You’d better post a video showing how you to lay metal strips and screed. I’m very happy to learn it.
He’s talking about not using the pipes and just screeding away by constantly checking the level paying even more attention that as you move the level you not taking too much sand away. No way can that be faster. Using the pipes means you simply level them then no need to worry about anything else. I know people feel smarter when they say they did it without mucking around with pipes but each to his own. Its like looking down on people using laser levels just because you usually do with a normal ones.
Such a lame way just use the level why waste the time putting the pipes for ppl who don’t know how to level
why use a level if you don't know how to use a level