Thanks for sharing. I like the fact you share the good and the bad, it helps remind everyone that if you are going to customise your bike, you need to be prepared to work out kinks like this now and then
If the software in that thing has some bugs, you might want to reset it back to factory defaults, then put all your settings back to their current state. That may make a difference if it's buggy.
Thanks for the update. As long as everything seems to function properly, I guess that's what's most important. You still have increased power and speed and that doesn't seem to be effected at all.
For Full Throttle: "C4 value should be set at 2 then your speed limit" Also, there is a setting to not need PAS engaged. I will check manual and reply back if anyone wishes.
P4 is throttle startup setting, when P4 setting is 1, throttle is under "non-zero startup" mode, namely, the throttle can function only after foot power assist. When P4 setting is 0, indicating the throttle is under "zero startup" mode, the motor can be controlled by throttle directly.
Thank you. My motor was delivered yesterday. The controler is was ordered 1st, but set for Sep. delivery. I want to install both together. Keep up the tips.
P4 set to 0 should allow the throttle to work normally anytime. I run the same exact settings as you but don't have the issues with the speedO or the throttle. I would try returning to the default settings and reprogram it. The only issue I have had since the controller upgrade is the wiring harness connector, the large one tucked up in the lower frame. Rad had issues with it coming unplugged in shipping on previous years, for 2020 they corrected that by putting heat shrink tubing over the connection. When I upgraded the controller I didn't have any 5/8" heat shrink to replace it. Twice when turning on my bike when I would twist the throttle it would simply display that there was a motor sensor issue. when the handlebars are turned fully to the right it puts tension on that wire, and on the kickstand the bike naturally wants the handlebars to do just that. Unplugging it and plugging it back in solved it and I have since put the heat shrink on the connection and have had no problems since so you might try that. But your issue with the throttle sounds like a P4 issue.
There's no doubt some of those issues have to do with the settings, maybe in combination with each other. I haven't done any of the upgrade yet cuz I'm still waiting for stuff to come from China. But one thing I did do is change the front sprocket to one with more teeth because it was freewheeling after 20 miles an hour. Now I have pedal resistance up to the stock 24 miles an hour. But I've noticed it's thrown my cadence sensor out of whack. It kicks in at all different speeds now. I used to be able to run in high gear all the time and just change the assist level to go slower. Now it just wants to take off. New learning curve on riding in lower gear to go slower at any given pedal assist. Probably going to take a lot of playing around with the settings to get yours just right again after all your power upgrades to the Beast. LOL. To meat least, throttle at zero setting is a must. Good luck
I had the same issue....no throttle at PAS 0 only. I changed setting C4 from zero to three and that fixed the issue of not having throttle at PAS 0....throttle is now available throughout all PAS modes...hope this helps you out. FYI...but I'm pretty sure you already know...PAS 1 limit 10 mph, PAS 2 is 15 mph, PAS 3 is 19 mph, PAS 4 is 22 mph, and PAS 5 & 0 is 25 mph or whatever top speed your ebike has now. Malama Pono...p.s. I set my P3 to "0" to be able to limit speed when friends are trying out the bike.
I wonder what would happen if you plugged in your old display?? Would that work with the upgraded controller? Would that "fix" these problems and make your bike act like it did from the factory, but with steroidal power?
The upgraded controller will not work with the stock display, you need to use the one that came with kit. while Bolton does sell the controller without the display Bolton does indicate that you need to have previously purchased a display. The electrobikeworld world controller also states "This controller is required to be use with our KT-LCD3 (Rad) link below"
I have the exact same problems with the speedo, came with the ebiike. Throttle is controlled by PAS levels, and speedo goes to 0 when no pedaling or throttle. My speed reading is also way off (I think its the speed magnet settings). Did you figure it out yet?
The 750 watt motor i received from electrobikeworld only has 1 magnet in the sensor plate so p2 should be 1 for that motor. Yours might be similar. I saw in the Bolton video that they often have 1 3 or 5 but that if you are having speedometer inconsistencies to try going through all of them.
I wonder if you can plug that into your computer and fix it and download something or if you can factory reset it and then it will fix it? was messing around with my controller settings and they wrote to me from ecotric and told me how to factory reset
Hey, great video 👍 I got my first ebike a few days ago and gave it a little test run. I’m slightly confused regarding the speed its showing. I have a dual 750w hub motor, 20x4” tires. I’ve set the computer to 20” but it’s showing less MPH (24mph) than if I was to set it to 24” (30mph) but then if i set it to 25” the top speed tops out at 32mph.... Which setting should I stick to as I’m unsure. Any help would be much appreciated! 🙏
Dual motors on a 20in bike..what bike is it? I would try setting to 22inch, that is probably the actual diameter if you measure from ground to top of tire. Next I would check the speed using a phone gps speed app to see what setting gives you the actual highest speed.
CitizenCycle it’s a custom built one that I purchased from AliExpress. 2x 750W Bafang motors paired with a silver fish style 31.5AH Battery (Samsung cell) It cost me an arm and a leg lol 😂
I have an intermittent issue with the new controller. When I connect it all up the controller just hums. No power to the rear wheel. I've tried pretty much everything that is listed here to remedy the issue with no success. I loosened the rear wheel and then at times I would get power, then none. Not sure what the issue could be. I don't think this is the controller as I sent the original one back to Bolton as I had this same issue. He sent me some changes to the settings in the controller but none worked on my issue. Anyone else out there have this issue when doing the upgrade of the Bolton controller? You would think it should be an easy fix since it's just plug and play. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
My upgraded RadRover worked fine for around 100 miles, and now I get a"Motor position sensor fault " message , and no power in the throttle or pedal assist. Anyone know how to fix this?
When you get it figured out be sure and let us see the new settings, I’m Hoping to get my 750 soon from electro bike world, I hate when things don’t work right, could be why I’m always single, I have yet to find a normal functioning woman. ☝️😎
It would be a pretty boring channel (no offense Citizen) if he didn't do these upgrades...and I doubt you'd be watching. So other than part about asking for help... your comment is nonsense.
if you are in PAS 0 you get no throttle. i have the same display. 1-5 gives you said amount of assist or throttle or speed threashold. i have a 52v 1500 \w direct drive rear hub setup. fat of course. i used to have that same bagang 750w geared hub motor. will i still have it! just upgraded to more top speed as apposed to torque. i leave cars at the stop lights all the time!!!!
Oh, another thing is your settings were identical to my own except P3 and C4 were different, not counting C5 & C14...I mentioned how to fix throttle by changing C4. The P3 setting is for PAS...my setting is "0" which limits speed in PAS 1/2/3/& 4; obviously 0 & 5 is full on. The setting you have doesn't have any preset limits in speed per PAS setting...once you change C4 all PAS will be capable of top speed.
@@Not_here-tho L-72,D-29",U-3,P1-100,2-5,3-0,4-0,5-0,C1-3,2-0,3-1,4-3,5-10,6-3,7-1,8-0,9-0,10-N,11-0,12-4,13-0,14-3,L1-0,2-0,3-1,4-5. I adjust C14 to 1 or 2 before letting friends test for the first time, otherwise it's on 3 as listed for me. These settings allow throttle at all PAS with speed limited in PAS 2-4. Also to note... speedo reads whether I peddle or not... hope this helps, good luck
You might get some help if you join the Rad Power Bike Upgrades group on Facebook: facebook.com/groups/629167654165317/ - The user Steve Holchak is somewhat of a guru when it comes to these controller and motor upgrades, and his settings are here: facebook.com/groups/629167654165317/permalink/1061484090933669/
c4 changes how the throttle settings act so you can try changing that here is a video that explains the programming ( wish the manual would explain what each setting is for and what the numbers do) ruclips.net/video/szXBBDd0LOA/видео.html
i looked at sondors but didn't like how the battery is enclosed in those giant metal triangles. just a personal preference, i'm sure they are great bikes.
No throttle/no PAS is fine with me,plenty of bikes ship like this where you need to be in at least pas one to get throttle, speedometer is probable a small settings issue!
Check out this. He had a similar problem as you and did the same upgrades from Bolton and found the setting incorrect. ruclips.net/video/INNABFfcxGw/видео.html
Thank you for posting the issues. A lot of people won’t. It helps me think about rather if I should upgrade or not
Thanks for sharing. I like the fact you share the good and the bad, it helps remind everyone that if you are going to customise your bike, you need to be prepared to work out kinks like this now and then
exactly, you can't make a ton of changes without throwing something off. :)
If the software in that thing has some bugs, you might want to reset it back to factory defaults, then put all your settings back to their current state. That may make a difference if it's buggy.
Thanks for the update. As long as everything seems to function properly, I guess that's what's most important. You still have increased power and speed and that doesn't seem to be effected at all.
did you have these issues when you did the controller upgrade?
For Full Throttle: "C4 value should be set at 2 then your speed limit"
Also, there is a setting to not need PAS engaged.
I will check manual and reply back if anyone wishes.
P4 is throttle startup setting, when P4 setting is 1, throttle is under "non-zero startup" mode, namely, the throttle can function only after foot power assist. When P4 setting is 0, indicating the throttle is under "zero startup" mode, the motor can be controlled by throttle directly.
Thank you. My motor was delivered yesterday. The controler is was ordered 1st, but set for Sep. delivery. I want to install both together. Keep up the tips.
Excellent 👌 good luck
P4 set to 0 should allow the throttle to work normally anytime. I run the same exact settings as you but don't have the issues with the speedO or the throttle. I would try returning to the default settings and reprogram it. The only issue I have had since the controller upgrade is the wiring harness connector, the large one tucked up in the lower frame. Rad had issues with it coming unplugged in shipping on previous years, for 2020 they corrected that by putting heat shrink tubing over the connection. When I upgraded the controller I didn't have any 5/8" heat shrink to replace it. Twice when turning on my bike when I would twist the throttle it would simply display that there was a motor sensor issue. when the handlebars are turned fully to the right it puts tension on that wire, and on the kickstand the bike naturally wants the handlebars to do just that. Unplugging it and plugging it back in solved it and I have since put the heat shrink on the connection and have had no problems since so you might try that. But your issue with the throttle sounds like a P4 issue.
Did Bolton Break Your Bike?🤔
There's no doubt some of those issues have to do with the settings, maybe in combination with each other. I haven't done any of the upgrade yet cuz I'm still waiting for stuff to come from China. But one thing I did do is change the front sprocket to one with more teeth because it was freewheeling after 20 miles an hour. Now I have pedal resistance up to the stock 24 miles an hour. But I've noticed it's thrown my cadence sensor out of whack. It kicks in at all different speeds now. I used to be able to run in high gear all the time and just change the assist level to go slower. Now it just wants to take off. New learning curve on riding in lower gear to go slower at any given pedal assist. Probably going to take a lot of playing around with the settings to get yours just right again after all your power upgrades to the Beast. LOL. To meat least, throttle at zero setting is a must. Good luck
Thanks for letting us know what to look out for.
I had the same issue....no throttle at PAS 0 only. I changed setting C4 from zero to three and that fixed the issue of not having throttle at PAS 0....throttle is now available throughout all PAS modes...hope this helps you out. FYI...but I'm pretty sure you already know...PAS 1 limit 10 mph, PAS 2 is 15 mph, PAS 3 is 19 mph, PAS 4 is 22 mph, and PAS 5 & 0 is 25 mph or whatever top speed your ebike has now. Malama Pono...p.s. I set my P3 to "0" to be able to limit speed when friends are trying out the bike.
Weird, I’ve noticed the lack of throttle for a few seconds when PAS is zero. I have the factory standard Rad Rover Step Thru
Throttle sensor is out. Possibly the cadence too....can you factory reset the system and re-assign everything?
I wonder what would happen if you plugged in your old display?? Would that work with the upgraded controller? Would that "fix" these problems and make your bike act like it did from the factory, but with steroidal power?
The upgraded controller will not work with the stock display, you need to use the one that came with kit. while Bolton does sell the controller without the display Bolton does indicate that you need to have previously purchased a display. The electrobikeworld world controller also states "This controller is required to be use with our KT-LCD3 (Rad) link below"
@@markburton5292 Thank you!
I have the exact same problems with the speedo, came with the ebiike. Throttle is controlled by PAS levels, and speedo goes to 0 when no pedaling or throttle. My speed reading is also way off (I think its the speed magnet settings). Did you figure it out yet?
The 750 watt motor i received from electrobikeworld only has 1 magnet in the sensor plate so p2 should be 1 for that motor. Yours might be similar. I saw in the Bolton video that they often have 1 3 or 5 but that if you are having speedometer inconsistencies to try going through all of them.
thanks, maybe i'll try a 1 for P2. still learning all this ebike stuff.
@@CitizenCycle925 where you able to get the speedometer when not peddling?
I wonder if you can plug that into your computer and fix it and download something or if you can factory reset it and then it will fix it? was messing around with my controller settings and they wrote to me from ecotric and told me how to factory reset
Have you tried disconnecting the controller and display wires then plugging them back in?
Hey, great video 👍 I got my first ebike a few days ago and gave it a little test run. I’m slightly confused regarding the speed its showing. I have a dual 750w hub motor, 20x4” tires. I’ve set the computer to 20” but it’s showing less MPH (24mph) than if I was to set it to 24” (30mph) but then if i set it to 25” the top speed tops out at 32mph.... Which setting should I stick to as I’m unsure. Any help would be much appreciated! 🙏
Dual motors on a 20in bike..what bike is it? I would try setting to 22inch, that is probably the actual diameter if you measure from ground to top of tire. Next I would check the speed using a phone gps speed app to see what setting gives you the actual highest speed.
CitizenCycle it’s a custom built one that I purchased from AliExpress. 2x 750W Bafang motors paired with a silver fish style 31.5AH Battery (Samsung cell) It cost me an arm and a leg lol 😂
Sounds like a awesome bike
I have an intermittent issue with the new controller. When I connect it all up the controller just hums. No power to the rear wheel. I've tried pretty much everything that is listed here to remedy the issue with no success. I loosened the rear wheel and then at times I would get power, then none. Not sure what the issue could be. I don't think this is the controller as I sent the original one back to Bolton as I had this same issue. He sent me some changes to the settings in the controller but none worked on my issue. Anyone else out there have this issue when doing the upgrade of the Bolton controller? You would think it should be an easy fix since it's just plug and play. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Just food for thought. I know it’s not the same, but my Lectric XP behaves that way. PAS 0 gives me no throttle, needs to be in 1-5.
Have you found a fix for this yet?
An update please
Try reseating the connectors. Perhaps some oxidation happened.
Were these issues resolved? If so, how?
Reset after writing down your settings
Same issues here man after same upgrades
Have you set the c14 to 3. That gives full power
C14 is Pedal Assist power setting, not throttle
My upgraded RadRover worked fine for around 100 miles, and now I get a"Motor position sensor fault " message , and no power in the throttle or pedal assist.
Anyone know how to fix this?
When you get it figured out be sure and let us see the new settings, I’m Hoping to get my 750 soon from electro bike world, I hate when things don’t work right, could be why I’m always single, I have yet to find a normal functioning woman. ☝️😎
Aren't you supposed to set maximum kmph to 45??
No throttle unless it's in a PAS mode that's the way it is.
It should give the option of turning off throttle with the red thumb toggle.
Try a 1 for P2
Hey bud... What about the name “the BEASTCYCLE!”... ?
Maybe a brake lever wiring glitch
Just wondering if you did your new tires yet?
Yep, testing now but I like them a lot so far.
Your tyre dim must be 28inch not 29inch,C1 0,C7 i have 0, the rest is the same, i have ride now 5500km on the bike....
I think the delay is normal.. I've seen it mentioned on a few ebike reviews
Try setting p2=6, p5=15, c14=2.
Did you say that you s
see what you git when you mess with the stock controller, ask Bolton how to fix that.
It would be a pretty boring channel (no offense Citizen) if he didn't do these upgrades...and I doubt you'd be watching. So other than part about asking for help... your comment is nonsense.
if you are in PAS 0 you get no throttle. i have the same display. 1-5 gives you said amount of assist or throttle or speed threashold. i have a 52v 1500 \w direct drive rear hub setup. fat of course. i used to have that same bagang 750w geared hub motor. will i still have it! just upgraded to more top speed as apposed to torque. i leave cars at the stop lights all the time!!!!
Send an email to Kyle at Bolton bikes.
Oh, another thing is your settings were identical to my own except P3 and C4 were different, not counting C5 & C14...I mentioned how to fix throttle by changing C4. The P3 setting is for PAS...my setting is "0" which limits speed in PAS 1/2/3/& 4; obviously 0 & 5 is full on. The setting you have doesn't have any preset limits in speed per PAS setting...once you change C4 all PAS will be capable of top speed.
Howie G.
I changed C4 to 3 and now my throttle works. Thank you.
I would be interested to see all of your settings if you ever have time to post them.
@@Not_here-tho L-72,D-29",U-3,P1-100,2-5,3-0,4-0,5-0,C1-3,2-0,3-1,4-3,5-10,6-3,7-1,8-0,9-0,10-N,11-0,12-4,13-0,14-3,L1-0,2-0,3-1,4-5.
I adjust C14 to 1 or 2 before letting friends test for the first time, otherwise it's on 3 as listed for me.
These settings allow throttle at all PAS with speed limited in PAS 2-4. Also to note... speedo reads whether I peddle or not... hope this helps, good luck
@@howieg6998 THANK YOU
You might get some help if you join the Rad Power Bike Upgrades group on Facebook: facebook.com/groups/629167654165317/ - The user Steve Holchak is somewhat of a guru when it comes to these controller and motor upgrades, and his settings are here: facebook.com/groups/629167654165317/permalink/1061484090933669/
Your wheels are 26" not 29"
Rim radius is 26. Tire radius is 29 which includes the tire for the most accurate reading.
@@wesdashman no 28inch is the correct reading, I have 2 screens on the bike and at 28inch the reading is the same on the screens.
@@jetsenagel1612 29" is the diameter of the tires, I measured them, and gives the most accurate speedometer.
c4 changes how the throttle settings act so you can try changing that here is a video that explains the programming ( wish the manual would explain what each setting is for and what the numbers do) ruclips.net/video/szXBBDd0LOA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/B0F6x8V0NZQ/видео.html this explains it better
You should have bought a SONDORS!🤣🤣
i looked at sondors but didn't like how the battery is enclosed in those giant metal triangles. just a personal preference, i'm sure they are great bikes.
That's normal if your in 0 mode your telling the control no power but as soon you go up in numbers you will get power from the controler
Reset these: P5-8, C1-3, C14-3. Your other settings are ok.
But what exactly are p5, c1 and c14 each for?
@@blacsheep19 C-5 max controller output. C-14 petal assist power.
[P5]is Power Monitoring Setting,
[C1] is Power-Assist Sensor and Parameter Select Setting
[C14] is Power-assist tuning parameters Setting
No throttle/no PAS is fine with me,plenty of bikes ship like this where you need to be in at least pas one to get throttle, speedometer is probable a small settings issue!
Check out this. He had a similar problem as you and did the same upgrades from Bolton and found the setting incorrect. ruclips.net/video/INNABFfcxGw/видео.html
At about 8m20s is where he talks about it
I think you have 26 diameter tires not 29. Check your settings