I had an Ooopsie! moment again. My wife put our backpack leaf blower down near the front right of my truck tire. I didn't notice it, so I backed up, turned right, drove forward, and heard CRUNCH! Oh, man! The truck won that fight. As my 5-year-old daughter said to her mom, "Dad has his license. He should have looked where he was going."
When you do get your trench for 1.5" waterline, make sure to get some tracer wire to be buried with the waterline. Don't just use regular THHN wire. They make a special direct bury tracer wire. The wire sticks up at both locations, so if in the future you ever need to find that line, you can use a wire tracer to clip onto the wire. You can also get tracer tape, which can be buried as well. We would usually put this over our buried electric lines about 12" above the buried wires. This way, if you or someone else is ever digging, you will see that tape first & it becomes a warning. Trust me, nothing ruins your day faster than ripping apart some underground utility. Love all the progress!
Most likely your chainsaw problem is the spark arrestor screen on your muffler. It is a small metal screen that prevents sparks from being emitted from the muffler and possibly catching grass or brush on fire. You are not allowed to use a chainsaw in a national forest without a spark arrestor screen. The openings in the screen will get clogged up with carbon and bog the motor down because it is not allowing it to exhaust. Either remove or replace the exhaust screen. Exhaust screens can sometimes be hard to find. You can also take an ice pick or similar tool and slowly eliminate the carbon buildup. Hope this helps.
Owning stuff is sometimes a pain. But, with all of these great plans you have, it’s gonna be worth it. 10 years from now you can look back while sitting on the beautiful porch and talk about those times.
Hello Jay, Speaking as a retired licensed landscape contractor and licensed plumbing contractor and an own/builder there are a couple of suggestions that I would offer. 1) Use 2” class 315 pvc pipe. You will get three times less friction loss in the 2” compared to the 1 ½” pipe. The difference in price will be offset by the better performance and life of the pipe. 2) Reduce your pipe diameter ten feet from the house to whatever size service you are going to use going into the house. 3) Put a shut off valve between the meter and the utility field hose bib and one or two other shut off valves in line in the field. Then you won’t be running to the meter to shut off the water during the inevitable broken pipes or hose bib. 4) Use tracing tape to find your utilities ten years from today. 5) Within reason, put your water service pipe as deep in the ground as possible. It will keep the water cooler in the summer and protect it from inadvertent digging. Good luck with your endeavor!
I feel that Murphy's law creeping up too. Dadgum thing. Am excited to see your shop plans coming together! I know you've been missing having that space to explore your creativity.
You are on the right track with the carb kit for the chain saw. I went through the same issues with my Echo chain saw earlier this spring. The carb kit fixed it. Make sure you replace the fuel filter inside the fuel tank and rinse out the fuel tank as there may be some saw dust in the fuel tank.
There should not be any reason they won't do the electricity like you described, the pole is already on that side. You are doing a lot of work with the tractor so these things are likely to happen, even though they are really frustrating. Like the way, you are sharing the adventure with us!! Look forward to seeing it all complete -- probably not as much as you :)
Go bigger on pipe Jay. Im a commercial plumber by trade in Texas and believe me that long of a run you may loose pressure, and more if you’re going up hill go with 2” pressure pipe pvc and fittings. Also check the frost line depth. Check prices on black poly pipe. It comes in 500’ rolls, less joint less leaks.
One of the common reason why chainsaw (or any motor for that reason) lose power is dirty air filter. Just soak it in water with a bit of dish soap for a minute, gently clean dirt with brush and dry in shade for 24 hours. My Husqvarna was losing power and even stopping simply because of that. No fancy repairs needed.
Regarding your chain saw, check the spark arrestor for carbon build up. It will cut your power. To remove the carbon, burn the screen with a torch and use a brush. Hope this helps. Love following your story.
In order to successfully get something done, something must come undone. Consider this your reminder of how much you've done. The progress so far is incredible for 4 months of work!
Sure, you had some stuff break. The amount of progress is fantastic. Feel good. In 20 years, you’ll be looking across your land thinking, how did I get all that done and be happy.
For house orientation just make sure that the south and west sides of the building have good overhangs to keep any windows shaded in the peak of summer. If you can put the bedrooms on the north side of the building to keep them well out of the sun path and summer heat. Are you planning on drilling a well for your water or connecting to the city water service at the road?
On the loss of power. Check the tubing to and from the gas tank. The filter gets full. The tubing gets soft. Often runs fine for 30 seconds then no power. It may get fuel but collapses because it is soft. Also the tank vent goes squirrelly too.
FB Marketplace almost feels like stealing with how cheap people put ladders up for, hard lesson learned lol - Love the direction the channel has gone, I get excited every time a video drops, watching the progress has been amazing! I'd look into an old surplus Alice frame to mount the leaf blower too, those things are tanks and should be nice and cheap.
When it rains, it pours. The more you have, the more that breaks... Its only going to get more expensive from here :P While your running lines for power and water, you may want to consider future proofing and run a conduit for Voice and Data as well(assuming there is such a service in your area/one gets put in/you're not going with Starlink, etc). I like your ideal for the wash station at the end of the driveway. You may consider adding a concrete pad(overkill I know) and electric to run a power washer/lighting for late evening cleanups. Overall its all coming together quite nicely I would say. Cant wait to see you start the building pad.
That tree to the left of the driveway at the 14:55-15:00 timeframe is really cool where it looks like it comes from one main stump and then splits off to the separate trunks or trees. You should get one of the cordless battery operated leaf blowers and chainsaws I have the Dewalt 16” 60 volt chainsaw; which from what I understand you can use a 18” bar on as well; and that thing works awesome. I have used an 18” Husqvarna 55 Rancher from the late 90’s, the last time I used it was a few years ago and man the cordless is so much nicer. They are considerably lighter and far quieter but work just as well as gas powered or at least from my experience. It looks like things are really coming along pretty well minus the handful of issues with your tractor and your other equipment.
I like the shop orientation idea but I've always been a fan of a house with the front door facing North. Our first house and current house we managed to have that orientation. That made for a cooler non direct sunlight for a front living room. Now that I've mentioned that our current home has the living room facing South and we have to utilize window shades more. The previous home we lived in the woods like you and had no shades on the windows.
Both of our previous homes had a north facing front door. They both molded a lot due to humidity. Required yearly pressure washing. I do like how cool the porches were though. North facing doesn't play well with the land site though.
@@JayBates yeah, the drive would end up approaching the side of the house so that would be a little odd. We have issues of north facing moss growth here in Illinois that requires power washing every few years as well. But, hey, isn't this the fun of planning!
@JayBates: Thank you. Really, really, really enjoy watching your property transformation. Sorry about so many "Murphys", but you are running him in circles, and he will QUIT before you do!!! And I really like "Coles Law"😂 I look forward to your blog every week, and share the " Dad Jokes" with a young friend.
Hey Jay, Murphy Lay is a given, everybody has that moment at some point in time. The site is really starting to take shape, doing a great job. On the chain saw, does it have a spark arrester? Over time they get clogged up with carbon and debris which can affect saw performance. I would check that first, if clogged, take off and clean it, order replacement or take off all together. They are required on the saw if they are being used on State forestry property or National forest property but on your own private property they are not required by law.
@@JayBates Jay if the new carb doesn't help, run it Without the muffler for a bit, see if it make a difference, if its better, issue will be in the muffler passages.
Jay, check compression on your chain saw. may have problem with the rings. Murphy is my mentor. Wife got me a tee shirt with Graduate of Murphy's Law school on it. You've got a plan and life has another but in some cases you're ahead in others you're behind? With experience come new insight? In my case it's difficult to remember it all. LOL!
Jay you can always ask if it’s an option where you live to feed into the shop then feed out to the house might save you some trenching. Not sure how much it would change your lay out but to have your panel in the shop in the corner or the end that’s closest to the shop. Food for thought. Also the green underground box is called a transformer (padmount)
You can also have the meter for your hydro beside the pad mount transformer. What size of service are you wanting 200 amp, 400 amp? I know here in Ontario you pay for having more than one meter so one meter would be key whether you go two services to the shop and house or one into shop then over to house, the hydro guys will be able to direct you for sure.
Two 200amp meters. They will be mounted to the side of the structures. For water, they only place the meters by the main line. The water meter will be 1250' away from the shop.
@@JayBates do you get charged for two meters ? If you do I would just have one and get it central metered we call it up here in Ontario so it would be teched as a 400 amp service
Re: chain saw and blower: with the advances in battery technology and brushless motors, I've replaced all my two-stroke gas yard tools with electric. Best yard tool decision I've made. No fiddling with mixing oil/gas, no worry about what needs to be done to get them running each spring, etc. You have 100 times the area to cover, so that might change the equation a bit, but something to consider.
I had a similar setup in my yard and I had the electricity (400amps) brought to my shop, then it split into 2 200 amp feeds, one for the shop panel and then a straight run to the house. BUT, my shop had to be in place before they would do anything.
While you have the trenches open put an extra electrical conduit all the way to the gate for lights at the gate or an automatic gate opener or cameras. Won’t cost much to do and you can decide the use in the future.
As a guess, it might be cheaper to just have another meter for the front gate option so that it wouldn't be as long of a run of wire/conduit from way back in the property.
Jay. I follow Chickanic. She has been doing 2/4 cycle repair for like 15 years. She knows her stuff. Will say she is not a fan of aftermarket carb kits. Lots of trouble with them. Recommends oem. She’s been there done that. Check her out.
YESSS!!! I am a FAN of Chickanic. She knows the equipment and shows detailed repair information. I have recommended her to several people because of seeing her do the actual repairs. Tip for anyone using a string trimmer: SOAK THAT TRIMMER LINE!!! Even if it is a new spool. She has a video that explains all about it. Thank you @Jay Bates. Really, really, really enjoy watching your property transformation. Sorry about so many "Murphys", but you are running him in circles, and he will quit before you do!!!
@@JayBates Water. It hydrates the plastic trimmer line and makes it last longer. Search yt for "chickanic trimmer line" the title is "The Big Secret" timestamp 3:45 she talks about soaking.
dont know if anyone has already said this, but the fitting for your steering is a standard type of hyd fitting available through any hydraulic vendor "parker, enzed, etc" from the photo it looks like it "might be" 1/4" BSPP on the lock nut end and 9/16" JIC on the hose end.... my 2 cents.... enjoy
Another channel Inwatch, they went to build their shop/garage in front of their house, and since they have boght the house, a zoning change occurred. No building with a garage door could be located in front of the house. So they had to resubmit plans, etc.
Is there a way to save some more money by putting the pipeline for the electric? All the electric company needs to do is pull the cable through. You haven't had much luck this week.
If chainsaw is running fine, it could be that you haven't filed down rakers after numerous sharpenings. Put a flat piece of metal from one cutter to the other and the raker should clear below the 2 cutters.
If you dig the trench and lay the conduit like Matt from Diesel Creek did....they should just have to pull the line to wherever you want (even if it is expensive), right? Then it goes where you want vs where they want. With the chain saw, did you check the air filter to see if it is getting clogged? You may be able to just clean that vs the whole repair kit.
@@JayBates Then my guess falls back on what I learned from watching the Farmcraft101 channel where he repaired some of his chainsaws. Could be a clogged fuel port/fuel system somewhere in that side of things. I do not have any good guesses other than random then. I do think making your own trench for the electric should mean you can run it where you want...it is weird that you would be limited to where a power company wanted to run the power on your land vs "I want it right here and run over there and then to here, how much will that cost" type thing. In any case I look forward to future videos as you figure it all out. :)
On that chainsaw I would check the fuel pick up line or the fuel lines mine did the same thing a few years ago it was the fuel lines not the carb $10 fix
No thanks. I wouldn't be able to lift half as much as I can with this one. The loader capacity is very important for what I'm doing with it. Kubota loaders are their weakest link by far.
Probably because life in Mississippi is pretty cheap, generally speaking. Underground utilities are not as common around here, probably due to the cost, so I don't see why our electric company would realistically invest in something like that.
Water meter ? No well ? There would be no reason why the electric can't be moved since there is nothing in the way. Suggestion, put in a driveway alarm in the ground that rings in your house, just another piece of mind. Sorry about the week.
Sorry to hear of all the tractor issues. But a question on the water lines. Are you getting an inch and a half meter and will you be stepping down to get more pressure? I will be running about 1200 ft. also to a new home and was wandering how i would run it to maintain good pressure.
@@JayBates I'm hoping I don't have to add a boster pump. Most city services only have max 30 psi and you lose 4.33 psi per foot of elevation and just on friction on 1200 feet you loss about 2.208 psi with 1.5 inch main feed. I haven't put a transit on it. But I know I have a large rise and small fall on the back side. The 4.33 psi is plus on the ft drop, just opposite of the rise.
I only use enthanol-free gas in my stuff that sits anytime at all, basically everything, but my truck and car No more issues with poor running and hard starting
I'm not 100% certain but I believe it was when I was rolling a rootball and it slipped causing the top of the grapple to slam down on top of the root ball. That puts the same forces on the curl cylinders that back dragging does. Back dragging is commonly referred to as the fastest way to bend a cylinder ram. Instead of back dragging, I've read equipment operators say you should fill the bucket, tilt it slightly up from flat, and then back drag. Never back drag with the tip of the bucket. Generally speaking, I try to use the tractor with the cylinders collapsed as much as possible. It's hard to damage cylinder rams when they are nested inside the cylinder.
@@JayBates Interesting, have been back dragging for years with my current Cub Cadet Mitsubishi made 7360 SS never an issue but now just bought a new Kioti NS 6010 HST with the same grappler you have and will be more leery.
It has a lot to do with the strength of the curl cylinder as well. I'd research people who have bent cylinders and read the replies. Lots of heavy equipment pros recommend a very specific way. Load the bucket, tilt "forks up" slightly from the bottom of the bucket being level, and back drag with the back of the bucket. I did this recently spreading gravel for a relative. Super handy because you can drag in both directions for easier smoothing.
Any chance that you could do the trench for the electric, Maybe that would be enough for them(the electric supplier) to go with your desired location. Just my thoughts.
Just some constructive criticism as I will be unfollowing from your massive subscribers. Ever since you decided to document your life rather than demonstrate woodworking your video’s just don’t interest me. I follow tons of guys (Andrew Camarata, Perkins Builders, RR building, Jesse Mueller)clearing land, building fixing equipment but every episode is boring. You’re talking and pointing too GD much…it’s boring. Bye
@@JayBatesI follow you, ‘cause you’re real and a testament to hard work, vision, picking yourself up and dusting off. Kudos to your wife for quietly being such an integral part of this journey. I harken back to your first video location in your apartment. Best Wishes from Canada.
I had an Ooopsie! moment again. My wife put our backpack leaf blower down near the front right of my truck tire. I didn't notice it, so I backed up, turned right, drove forward, and heard CRUNCH! Oh, man! The truck won that fight. As my 5-year-old daughter said to her mom, "Dad has his license. He should have looked where he was going."
Ouch. Ummm, daughter is correct.
But, I'm going to put it as 45% Wife's / 55% your fault.
Call it a learning lesson for both?
Forget Stiehl Aftermarket Parts, ruclips.net/video/k7iuY28eMeM/видео.html
When you do get your trench for 1.5" waterline, make sure to get some tracer wire to be buried with the waterline. Don't just use regular THHN wire. They make a special direct bury tracer wire. The wire sticks up at both locations, so if in the future you ever need to find that line, you can use a wire tracer to clip onto the wire. You can also get tracer tape, which can be buried as well. We would usually put this over our buried electric lines about 12" above the buried wires. This way, if you or someone else is ever digging, you will see that tape first & it becomes a warning. Trust me, nothing ruins your day faster than ripping apart some underground utility. Love all the progress!
Some days are diamonds, some days are stone. No truer words were ever sung. Keep it up you are doing great. Nice hat.
Congrats on getting an address. Good luck with the tractor and the elctric company.
Haha…I love your line…”I won’t be working in the evening, right?”……😂🤣
well...I don't plan on standing under that west facing porch in the evening. I may be working, but I'll work around the brutal sun in the summer time.
Most likely your chainsaw problem is the spark arrestor screen on your muffler. It is a small metal screen that prevents sparks from being emitted from the muffler and possibly catching grass or brush on fire. You are not allowed to use a chainsaw in a national forest without a spark arrestor screen. The openings in the screen will get clogged up with carbon and bog the motor down because it is not allowing it to exhaust. Either remove or replace the exhaust screen. Exhaust screens can sometimes be hard to find. You can also take an ice pick or similar tool and slowly eliminate the carbon buildup. Hope this helps.
Screen and muffler are free of obstruction.
Owning stuff is sometimes a pain. But, with all of these great plans you have, it’s gonna be worth it. 10 years from now you can look back while sitting on the beautiful porch and talk about those times.
Great layout due to sunrise and sunset. It’s one of the most important things I enjoy about my house and what majority of people overlook.
Great video Jay looking good can’t wait to see what’s next
Nice layout. Thanks for the tour.
Hello Jay, Speaking as a retired licensed landscape contractor and licensed plumbing contractor and an own/builder there are a couple of suggestions that I would offer.
1) Use 2” class 315 pvc pipe. You will get three times less friction loss in the 2” compared to the 1 ½” pipe. The difference in price will be offset by the better performance and life of the pipe.
2) Reduce your pipe diameter ten feet from the house to whatever size service you are going to use going into the house.
3) Put a shut off valve between the meter and the utility field hose bib and one or two other shut off valves in line in the field. Then you won’t be running to the meter to shut off the water during the inevitable broken pipes or hose bib.
4) Use tracing tape to find your utilities ten years from today.
5) Within reason, put your water service pipe as deep in the ground as possible. It will keep the water cooler in the summer and protect it from inadvertent digging.
Good luck with your endeavor!
I appreciate your suggestions. Thank you.
I feel that Murphy's law creeping up too. Dadgum thing. Am excited to see your shop plans coming together! I know you've been missing having that space to explore your creativity.
You are on the right track with the carb kit for the chain saw. I went through the same issues with my Echo chain saw earlier this spring. The carb kit fixed it. Make sure you replace the fuel filter inside the fuel tank and rinse out the fuel tank as there may be some saw dust in the fuel tank.
Might also replace fuel lines?
I met Murphy many years ago! He likes to hang out with me lol! ❤❤
There should not be any reason they won't do the electricity like you described, the pole is already on that side. You are doing a lot of work with the tractor so these things are likely to happen, even though they are really frustrating. Like the way, you are sharing the adventure with us!! Look forward to seeing it all complete -- probably not as much as you :)
Go bigger on pipe Jay. Im a commercial plumber by trade in Texas and believe me that long of a run you may loose pressure, and more if you’re going up hill go with 2” pressure pipe pvc and fittings. Also check the frost line depth.
Check prices on black poly pipe. It comes in 500’ rolls, less joint less leaks.
The current plan is now 20' sticks of 2". Black poly pipe is too expensive.
One of the common reason why chainsaw (or any motor for that reason) lose power is dirty air filter. Just soak it in water with a bit of dish soap for a minute, gently clean dirt with brush and dry in shade for 24 hours. My Husqvarna was losing power and even stopping simply because of that. No fancy repairs needed.
Do a “Circle of Safety”…. Always walk around your vehicle when on a “job site” when getting ready to leave.
Inside a “cone of silence” in case something is bad😅
Regarding your chain saw, check the spark arrestor for carbon build up. It will cut your power. To remove the carbon, burn the screen with a torch and use a brush. Hope this helps. Love following your story.
In order to successfully get something done, something must come undone. Consider this your reminder of how much you've done. The progress so far is incredible for 4 months of work!
How is your air filter, I would have guessed the spark arrester too but u covered that.
Sure, you had some stuff break. The amount of progress is fantastic. Feel good. In 20 years, you’ll be looking across your land thinking, how did I get all that done and be happy.
For house orientation just make sure that the south and west sides of the building have good overhangs to keep any windows shaded in the peak of summer. If you can put the bedrooms on the north side of the building to keep them well out of the sun path and summer heat. Are you planning on drilling a well for your water or connecting to the city water service at the road?
City water at the road.
On the loss of power. Check the tubing to and from the gas tank. The filter gets full. The tubing gets soft. Often runs fine for 30 seconds then no power. It may get fuel but collapses because it is soft. Also the tank vent goes squirrelly too.
FB Marketplace almost feels like stealing with how cheap people put ladders up for, hard lesson learned lol - Love the direction the channel has gone, I get excited every time a video drops, watching the progress has been amazing! I'd look into an old surplus Alice frame to mount the leaf blower too, those things are tanks and should be nice and cheap.
When it rains, it pours. The more you have, the more that breaks... Its only going to get more expensive from here :P While your running lines for power and water, you may want to consider future proofing and run a conduit for Voice and Data as well(assuming there is such a service in your area/one gets put in/you're not going with Starlink, etc). I like your ideal for the wash station at the end of the driveway. You may consider adding a concrete pad(overkill I know) and electric to run a power washer/lighting for late evening cleanups. Overall its all coming together quite nicely I would say. Cant wait to see you start the building pad.
That tree to the left of the driveway at the 14:55-15:00 timeframe is really cool where it looks like it comes from one main stump and then splits off to the separate trunks or trees. You should get one of the cordless battery operated leaf blowers and chainsaws I have the Dewalt 16” 60 volt chainsaw; which from what I understand you can use a 18” bar on as well; and that thing works awesome. I have used an 18” Husqvarna 55 Rancher from the late 90’s, the last time I used it was a few years ago and man the cordless is so much nicer. They are considerably lighter and far quieter but work just as well as gas powered or at least from my experience. It looks like things are really coming along pretty well minus the handful of issues with your tractor and your other equipment.
A brace of Mississippi mules does not usually have hydrologic leaks. Well, at least the kind of that shuts down the job. 😊
I like the shop orientation idea but I've always been a fan of a house with the front door facing North. Our first house and current house we managed to have that orientation. That made for a cooler non direct sunlight for a front living room. Now that I've mentioned that our current home has the living room facing South and we have to utilize window shades more. The previous home we lived in the woods like you and had no shades on the windows.
Both of our previous homes had a north facing front door. They both molded a lot due to humidity. Required yearly pressure washing. I do like how cool the porches were though. North facing doesn't play well with the land site though.
@@JayBates yeah, the drive would end up approaching the side of the house so that would be a little odd. We have issues of north facing moss growth here in Illinois that requires power washing every few years as well. But, hey, isn't this the fun of planning!
Indeed it is!
@JayBates: Thank you. Really, really, really enjoy watching your property transformation. Sorry about so many "Murphys", but you are running him in circles, and he will QUIT before you do!!! And I really like "Coles Law"😂 I look forward to your blog every week, and share the " Dad Jokes" with a young friend.
Just be thankful that Murphy's Law is presiding and not O'Toole's Law.
O'Toole's Law states that Murphy is an optimist.
Hey Jay, Murphy Lay is a given, everybody has that moment at some point in time. The site is really starting to take shape, doing a great job. On the chain saw, does it have a spark arrester? Over time they get clogged up with carbon and debris which can affect saw performance. I would check that first, if clogged, take off and clean it, order replacement or take off all together. They are required on the saw if they are being used on State forestry property or National forest property but on your own private property they are not required by law.
It does have one. I removed the entire exhaust. It all looks good.
@@JayBates Jay if the new carb doesn't help, run it Without the muffler for a bit, see if it make a difference, if its better, issue will be in the muffler passages.
You need to take the muffler off your saw and check to see if the cylinder is scored. Or check the compression.
Jay, check compression on your chain saw. may have problem with the rings. Murphy is my mentor. Wife got me a tee shirt with Graduate of Murphy's Law school on it. You've got a plan and life has another but in some cases you're ahead in others you're behind? With experience come new insight? In my case it's difficult to remember it all. LOL!
Ponder Poly vs PVC for your water line, fewer joints to have trouble with in the future....
Jay you can always ask if it’s an option where you live to feed into the shop then feed out to the house might save you some trenching. Not sure how much it would change your lay out but to have your panel in the shop in the corner or the end that’s closest to the shop. Food for thought. Also the green underground box is called a transformer (padmount)
You can also have the meter for your hydro beside the pad mount transformer. What size of service are you wanting 200 amp, 400 amp? I know here in Ontario you pay for having more than one meter so one meter would be key whether you go two services to the shop and house or one into shop then over to house, the hydro guys will be able to direct you for sure.
Two 200amp meters. They will be mounted to the side of the structures. For water, they only place the meters by the main line. The water meter will be 1250' away from the shop.
@@JayBates do you get charged for two meters ? If you do I would just have one and get it central metered we call it up here in Ontario so it would be teched as a 400 amp service
Yes. I want two meters.
Re: chain saw and blower: with the advances in battery technology and brushless motors, I've replaced all my two-stroke gas yard tools with electric. Best yard tool decision I've made. No fiddling with mixing oil/gas, no worry about what needs to be done to get them running each spring, etc. You have 100 times the area to cover, so that might change the equation a bit, but something to consider.
I have a battery leaf blower as well. It's nice on it's own, but is nowhere near as powerful as my gas blower.
I had a similar setup in my yard and I had the electricity (400amps) brought to my shop, then it split into 2 200 amp feeds, one for the shop panel and then a straight run to the house. BUT, my shop had to be in place before they would do anything.
I'm pulling 400 amps to the ground mount transformer. Then 200 amp service for the shop and 200 amp service for the house. Each on their own meter.
While you have the trenches open put an extra electrical conduit all the way to the gate for lights at the gate or an automatic gate opener or cameras. Won’t cost much to do and you can decide the use in the future.
As a guess, it might be cheaper to just have another meter for the front gate option so that it wouldn't be as long of a run of wire/conduit from way back in the property.
Check and make sure the spark arrestor screen on the muffler is clean on your chainsaw it could be choking not able to get the exhaust out
Both clear of obstruction.
Jay. I follow Chickanic. She has been doing 2/4 cycle repair for like 15 years. She knows her stuff. Will say she is not a fan of aftermarket carb kits. Lots of trouble with them. Recommends oem. She’s been there done that. Check her out.
YESSS!!! I am a FAN of Chickanic. She knows the equipment and shows detailed repair information. I have recommended her to several people because of seeing her do the actual repairs. Tip for anyone using a string trimmer: SOAK THAT TRIMMER LINE!!! Even if it is a new spool. She has a video that explains all about it. Thank you @Jay Bates. Really, really, really enjoy watching your property transformation. Sorry about so many "Murphys", but you are running him in circles, and he will quit before you do!!!
Soak it in what?
@@JayBates Water. It hydrates the plastic trimmer line and makes it last longer. Search yt for "chickanic trimmer line" the title is "The Big Secret" timestamp 3:45 she talks about soaking.
Thanks!
I am sure you have heard every advise in the book on equipment needed. You have made your choice, so I want bore you.
Well Jay, some days you are the bug and some days you are the windshield! !! !!!
Carpe Diem
For the chainsaw. Change the air filter. It’s starving for air. Mine does the same after a could years
I've ran it without the filter installed and no change.
dont know if anyone has already said this, but the fitting for your steering is a standard type of hyd fitting available through any hydraulic vendor "parker, enzed, etc" from the photo it looks like it "might be" 1/4" BSPP on the lock nut end and 9/16" JIC on the hose end.... my 2 cents.... enjoy
The fitting wasn't the problem. Blown seal inside the power steering hydraulics causing too much back pressure.
Another channel Inwatch, they went to build their shop/garage in front of their house, and since they have boght the house, a zoning change occurred. No building with a garage door could be located in front of the house. So they had to resubmit plans, etc.
Is there a way to save some more money by putting the pipeline for the electric? All the electric company needs to do is pull the cable through.
You haven't had much luck this week.
If chainsaw is running fine, it could be that you haven't filed down rakers after numerous sharpenings. Put a flat piece of metal from one cutter to the other and the raker should clear below the 2 cutters.
Rakers are 0.025" below the cutters.
Air filter on the chain saw
I mentioned Facebook Marketplace, for your latter, in your last video :) I
Which is why I checked and then kicked myself. Haha.
@@JayBates 😂
If you dig the trench and lay the conduit like Matt from Diesel Creek did....they should just have to pull the line to wherever you want (even if it is expensive), right? Then it goes where you want vs where they want. With the chain saw, did you check the air filter to see if it is getting clogged? You may be able to just clean that vs the whole repair kit.
Air filter is not the problem. Ran it without the filter with no change.
@@JayBates Then my guess falls back on what I learned from watching the Farmcraft101 channel where he repaired some of his chainsaws. Could be a clogged fuel port/fuel system somewhere in that side of things. I do not have any good guesses other than random then. I do think making your own trench for the electric should mean you can run it where you want...it is weird that you would be limited to where a power company wanted to run the power on your land vs "I want it right here and run over there and then to here, how much will that cost" type thing. In any case I look forward to future videos as you figure it all out. :)
On that chainsaw I would check the fuel pick up line or the fuel lines mine did the same thing a few years ago it was the fuel lines not the carb $10 fix
Trade that Bad Boy for a Kubota.
No thanks. I wouldn't be able to lift half as much as I can with this one. The loader capacity is very important for what I'm doing with it. Kubota loaders are their weakest link by far.
Why can't they put the transformer ( turtle thing lol ) at the shop? Then you could run it to the house. Not sure just a thought.
just a small branch hitting the hose near the fitting will bend/damage it...
I wonder why the power company doesn’t shoot a bore for all the underground instead digging trenches. In Delaware we rarely trench like that anymore
Probably because life in Mississippi is pretty cheap, generally speaking. Underground utilities are not as common around here, probably due to the cost, so I don't see why our electric company would realistically invest in something like that.
I take it getting a directional-boring crew to put in both the electric and water with straight runs didn't turn out to be competitive to trenching?
I would use Blue Poly water pipe instead of PVC and make sure you put in a tracer wire when you lay your pipe
Your exhaust screen on the chain saw blocked?
nah
Water meter ? No well ? There would be no reason why the electric can't be moved since there is nothing in the way. Suggestion, put in a driveway alarm in the ground that rings in your house, just another piece of mind. Sorry about the week.
Engineers sometimes aren't practical in their designs.
Sorry to hear of all the tractor issues. But a question on the water lines. Are you getting an inch and a half meter and will you be stepping down to get more pressure? I will be running about 1200 ft. also to a new home and was wandering how i would run it to maintain good pressure.
Not sure on options at the moment.
@@JayBates I'm hoping I don't have to add a boster pump. Most city services only have max 30 psi and you lose 4.33 psi per foot of elevation and just on friction on 1200 feet you loss about 2.208 psi with 1.5 inch main feed. I haven't put a transit on it. But I know I have a large rise and small fall on the back side. The 4.33 psi is plus on the ft drop, just opposite of the rise.
I only use enthanol-free gas in my stuff that sits anytime at all, basically everything, but my truck and car
No more issues with poor running and hard starting
Are you planning a septic system?
Yes
How did you bend the hydraulic cylinder, just curious so I can avoid doing so myself?
I'm not 100% certain but I believe it was when I was rolling a rootball and it slipped causing the top of the grapple to slam down on top of the root ball. That puts the same forces on the curl cylinders that back dragging does. Back dragging is commonly referred to as the fastest way to bend a cylinder ram. Instead of back dragging, I've read equipment operators say you should fill the bucket, tilt it slightly up from flat, and then back drag. Never back drag with the tip of the bucket. Generally speaking, I try to use the tractor with the cylinders collapsed as much as possible. It's hard to damage cylinder rams when they are nested inside the cylinder.
@@JayBates Interesting, have been back dragging for years with my current Cub Cadet Mitsubishi made 7360 SS never an issue but now just bought a new Kioti NS 6010 HST with the same grappler you have and will be more leery.
It has a lot to do with the strength of the curl cylinder as well. I'd research people who have bent cylinders and read the replies. Lots of heavy equipment pros recommend a very specific way. Load the bucket, tilt "forks up" slightly from the bottom of the bucket being level, and back drag with the back of the bucket. I did this recently spreading gravel for a relative. Super handy because you can drag in both directions for easier smoothing.
If they won't do it can you dig the trench yourself
I'm about to explore that option.
Have you looked into doing a well instead of running all that pipe?
Yes. 20k-ish for a well. 4-5k for me to run the pipe
and he would OWN the well.
Wouldn’t you save a lot of money trenching for the electricity yourself?
No. They do it all or none of it. I couldn't get the materials alone for what they are charging for the entire install.
Any chance that you could do the trench for the electric, Maybe that would be enough for them(the electric supplier) to go with your desired location. Just my thoughts.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Jay.. FYI.. Great Gate Design/Build, Essential Craftsman ..Cedar & Steel: Installing Wood Panels in the Gate! #12, link: ruclips.net/video/1gMJBSjWKS8/видео.html
Just saw that gate. Looks great.
Not cheaper to just dig a well instead of running that long water line?
Well is 20k-ish. Water to the clearing should be around 4-5k.
@@JayBatesdang! Well in SC in about $6,000
@@WhiteShadow4689 All relative to how deep and how much casing.
Whats up
The sky
Thanks for commenting me back, I'm looking forward to seeing through all those pine trees.
Just some constructive criticism as I will be unfollowing from your massive subscribers. Ever since you decided to document your life rather than demonstrate woodworking your video’s just don’t interest me. I follow tons of guys (Andrew Camarata, Perkins Builders, RR building, Jesse Mueller)clearing land, building fixing equipment but every episode is boring.
You’re talking and pointing too GD much…it’s boring. Bye
Thanks!
@@JayBatesI follow you, ‘cause you’re real and a testament to hard work, vision, picking yourself up and dusting off. Kudos to your wife for quietly being such an integral part of this journey. I harken back to your first video location in your apartment. Best Wishes from Canada.
Contact TYM them have tractors at Arms Family homestead and Country View Acres loaned on condition its used in Videos which you can do easily
I haven't been able to get ahold of anyone at TYM.