You Should Make These - 379
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- When gluing a panel together most people use a row of clamps as the platform to place the wood on top of. This works but it can be MUCH better. The problem is that if after the glue is applied and the pieces are ready to be clamped any repositioning of the clamps will cause the panel to shift. Also, repositioning of the panel might cause the clamps to shift. Sometimes it can be an annoying back and forth process. The goal is to isolate the material movement from the clamp movement. A few PVC pipe platforms will do the trick. Make these and you'll be wondering why you haven't made them sooner.
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I've been woodworking since 1978 - I JUST learned something that I find incredibly valuable and useful for my woodworking! Well done sir.
I think that there are many, many woodworkers with a library of knowledge and experience that enjoy nothing more than watching others do the exact same thing we do - often times, the exact same way. It's sometimes enjoyable to watch, sometimes comforting and reassuring, sometimes makes us laugh at the idiot in front of the camera that doesn't know what he's talking about, and sometimes - just sometimes! We learn something new and valuable and add it to our repertoire.
Thanks again.
Jay, are a very smart man. The intelligence used in making your videos really shines through.
Hi Jay: I too was inspired by MTM Wood to make a pair of PVC pipe glue-up risers. Here's a tip - in lieu of attaching a board to the each pipe to keep them from rolling during glue-up, slip a PVC "T" pipe fitting onto each end of the pipe, and note, no pipe glue is required to keep the "T" fitting on the pipe. Just slip the fitting on each end of the PVC pipe and then push down on each pipe on a flat surface and the two "T" fittings are now coplanner to each other, and you are done! Hope this tip helps you and others that enjoy watching your channel as I do.
Best - Michael
Clever idea! Thanks. But I think that with only one "T" is enough.
In the other extreme you can add a simple tap to ensure the pipe is horizontal.
@@JosePedroEspinosa Hi Jose: Yes, you are correct, one "T" fitting on one end of the pipe is sufficient and I knew this when I was buying the materials. I went with two per pipe just to ensure the final assembly would be level at both ends of the pipe, as a one fitting solution would cause a slight tilt to the pipe due to the wall thickness of the fitting. Many thanks for reviewing and commenting on the approach I took.
Best - Michael
@@sendgunsMurphy Sorry, mi English is not good, I said to add a tap in the other end, but mi idea was to add an End Cap, not a tap. This way the pipe will stay horizontal.
@@JosePedroEspinosa Hi Jose: Yes, that's a great idea to ensure the assembly is level, and an end cap should cost less than a "T" fitting.
Best - Michael
There are a lot of RUclipsrs that post videos as if they're their own creation and they aren't. I really admire how you give credit to those who's original idea it was. Here you credit MTM wood and Ron Paulk. I think that's a classy thing to do. Keep 'em coming, another great video.
After making a few table tops, struggling, to get the clamps under the wood, I find this. Thanks for sharing this. Sometimes it is the simplest of things that carry the greatest knowledge.
Glad to see MTM wood getting a shout out they deserve. Been watching you for about 8 years and MTM for about 5. Good craftsmen and good fathers.
The pvc riser/cols are great, you can get over the rolling issue by using 3" square downpipe. It won't roll, it gives you a flat surface to work on top and it still won't stick. I also found a round downpipe size that's a piston fit inside so I can connect and extend if needed
What is a 3" square downpipe? Do you mean a gutter downpipe?
@@number6396 yes, in Ireland we normally refer only to the horizontal piece as gutter. But yes a square gutter downpipe
@@number6396 also your original comment asked about crushing, no they are pvc with a 3mm wall, similar to the pipe used in the video
This is the single best thing I’ve done to speed up the process of making cutting boards. Now I need a better way to quickly glue them up.
Thanks for this video!
I like this, thanks it's a good approach. BTW, since you have dog holes on your assembly bench, you could have "dogs" on the PVC platforms to keep them from moving around.
Well, you convinced me. I've never seen any of your content before. I enjoyed your video. The part at the end is what really convinced me. Seeing you use the jig in many different applications helped me visualize how I could use it. Thanks for the video. I'll be looking on your site for more content.
RP
Agree. He said good bye to us and then started the most important part of the video . . . using the PVC jigs. Prior to that I had no idea what they were for!!
man! You need another video on how to train my guys to work that fast!
Jay, youre looking so much better since last time I saw you. Good to see you with more meat on your bones brother! God bless
MTM Wood is definitely the man when it comes to complex cutting boards! It was amazing to see how your walnut moved and flexed during glue up and clamping. We all know things move when we clamp them, but your video proves just how much. Well done and thank you for another great tip.
Glad you are back on utube
Fully agree. I have learned a lot from MTM over the years. I even use the small paint roller for gluing if I have a bunch of boards to do at one time. Thank you for not being hesitant to give credit where credit is due Mr. Bates!
This is a good tip, Jay. I found Andrei's channel years ago and made those same PVC pipe supports for panel glue-up. They save a lot of frustration.
Nice tip. Also the fast demo at the end sealed the deal. I will make something like this.
I love projects in the middle of projects.
When I only had a miter saw I was doing everything on the floor. Got tired of it so in the middle of a project I pulled up YOUR saw horse design and slapped them together in 30 mins. Put an old door on top and voila I built my first workbench.
Cool to see someone do a shootout for MTM. Ive been a fan of his for awhile. Some of his cutting boards are mind boggling.
Sir I would love to just be a apprentice in your shop, I'm probably 20 years older than you, and you never fail to teach me something new. Keep up the great work Jay!
Wow!!!! That's a Great idea!!!! Thank You!!!!😮👍😎🙏😀
Nice trick
Also useful for the week-end woodworker !
This video turned out to be one of the most useful I have seen as I am building a 40x72 hard maple top 1.5" thick and was having the very issue you discuss. I stopped and took the time to make the pvc standoffs. WOW! And your friend looks uncannily like a friend of mine who lives in Mass. Had to watch the video twice and messaged him to make sure it wasn't him.
Nifty solution. For glue release on cauls cooking spray - Pam may is the most familiar brand - works really well. Soy lecithin is what the stuff is. The cheapest dollar store brand works just as well. A small can lasts a long time. Wipe off the excess with a bit of rag saved in a closed container for future applications. Apply over cardboard or outside unless you relish the idea of soy lecithin migrating eternally around your workspace.
They are on the shelf right behind your head. I can see them plain as day :)
Jay, I saw you pull these out of your assembly table in the McCurdy Clock video and thought they were super cool and perfectly stored. Been wondering about them ever since. Thanks for dedicating a segment to them! Appreciate you.
Funny story on the Gummy bears. When I was stationed in Germany, I saw Haribo bears for the first time. LOVED them. *LOVED* it. Well back at Ft. Benning, my girl friend was feeding me Haribo as I was driving. She was getting upset with how much I was eating and shoved a handful in my mouth. Way more than normal. Instead of getting the message, I looked at her, eyes wide open in surprise, and said "THANK YOU!" and meant it. She was pissed, but cracked up at how stupid and oblivious I was to the fact. Gummy Bears FTW!!!! /* for those who don't know what I'm talking about, it was in jay's email note */
40x80 aluminium extrusion profiles will work just as well...and they are so straight you can use em to prevent warp while clamping
There's a significant cost difference compared to PVC pipe.
Regarding nothing, It's nice to see Lidström getting a new role.
I learned this from a professional furniture maker: during the glue up, he sprinkled a tiny bit of sand along the glue joint. Doesn't take much, about 5-10 grains per square inch, usually near the ends. When clamped, the grains dig into both pieces of wood, gently locking them in place.
I like that in principle but I don't think I'd ever do it. Extra step that isn't really necessary. Do you do this?
seen done with salt---same effect, ready availability; I follow Jay up here though and felt no need ever for the old ritual
Its not difficult to find a solution. Its difficult to find a simple solution.
Good idea, thank you for sharing
A slight addition I made to mine was to add boards across the front and rear of the primary boards that support the PVC. These two boards had equally spaced holes in them. Then I added a pegs to the front and rear of two PVC primary boards. The primary boards could then be moved towards or away from each other equal amounts depending on the width of the project and then secured with the cross board. This keeps the entire support for the glue up secure and the PVC tubes from moving sideways. It’s a bit like nailing the PVC boards to the table top but with the flexibility to move them closer or farther apart as needed. Anything that can move during a glue up will. Like the bolt that falls off the table WILL roll under the heaviest equipment in your shop.
Very nice sir as a joiner my self l have had all the problems with glueing up so too see your idea l like it but I did read one other person comments about using square pipe too so thank you for your help and video stay safe 👏👏👍
This is a great idea. Simple and Effective.
I used to watch MTMwood also and you are right. I need to make something like this also.
Jay, this is a very useful video. Thanks for making my work better.
good tip! you move sooo fast you must get a lot done in your shop, Jay
now you just need to make some clamping cauls which I guess you could store inside these PCV risers. Shorter ones around 18" or less can be straight but the longer they are the more curve needs to be in them so they keep the center clamped down. make from softwood so they don't mark your workpiece.
Not needed if you do it the MTM way
Great idea, I have been using the pipes without the flats, works fine, but this is looks like it's going to be much better.
Thanks Jay. Good tip. I really enjoy your quality videos. Your editing skills are top-noche.
Good idea. think I'll give it a go.
I've been using this technique for years now. so cleaver. so easy.
Jay, have you tried coating items with silicon? It has 2 wonderful advantages over packing tape.
1. Glue releases from it far better
2. It protects the work an resists slippage.
While a bit more expensive than packing tape, I found it lasts longer, is easier to apply, and with the many colors available, makes finding my tools much easier (I choose a bright orange). There are several brands on the market. I recommend a two part paint "paint-on" / dip if you can find it. For myself, these seem to apply and cure more evenly.
This is also useful to provide an insulating grip to things. I have coated several cheap canvas work gloves for working with small items, hot things, or really messy stuff (gardening, auto-mechanics, etc.). I even coated a set of old mittens for shoveling snow. The hand stay nice and warm and I have a better grip on the shovel with less effort. ;-)
what kind of silicone are you using?
How do you apply a thin and homogeneous layer without messing everything up with silicone?
Not needed with PVC
@@daveklein2826 Now, he wouldn't be commenting in such a detailed and informed manner about coating with silicon if he was talking about pvc, would it son?
Tool envy, clamp envy, space envy, damn! Love the video but man… jealous asf! 😂😂
MTM is amazing. I use wax on my glue up equipment. It allows for easier removal of the adhesives.
Me too. Cleaning titebond III off my bessys is a breeze if they waxed.
Neat idea using the pvc tubing. Another roundtoit for this year.🤣 Karl W
I definitely appreciate this type of creativity. I have a 22x24 garage/shop and even though it's a 10' ceiling (lots of storage), I have to be particular about which jigs and related hardware I keep around. Stuff like this would be easy to store and crazy useful. Subbed!
Great one Jay
Watching this as I go into my 3rd hour of panel glue ups 🤣
I've been a fan of Mtmwood for a number of years now and I made these clamping supports several years ago after seeing his. Super idea and work great. Big fan of yours, too, by the way, so don't feel unappreciated. :>}
Yes! I saw the Mtmwood ones and thought it was a brilliant idea so I made some for cutting board glue ups. Super helpful to have around the shop.
Saw these years ago and use them all the time. Thanks for sharing and getting this out to more woodworkers.
you can also make the pipe shorter than the board underneath. then you can clamp the board to the work bench. Also if you have the dimensional lumber spacer that is as long as the table you can put them on top of the glue up and then clamped to the work bench to keep the glue up from bowing.
MTM does great work, not good work but great.
I purchased 4 pieces of extruded aluminum. They're 48" long and 1 1/2 x 3 1/2. I set 2 on the work bench, layout the work pieces, glue them then place the other 2 on top so I can clamp them together. It really helps with alignment. Then I add my bessy clamps. I also wax the snot out of the aluminum extrusions and my clamps so cleaning off the titebond III is easier.
The owner of your old house is out in the garage looking at some weird pvc pieces with old glue spots on them wondering what the heck they were for.
Love this idea! Thanks for sharing
In the UK use 40mm ( 1 & 1/2 ") waste pipe because 2" ( 50 mm ) costs a lot more. The reason is 1&1/4" ( 32mm ) and 1&1/2" (40mm) are domestic while 2" ( 50 mm ) tends to be more commercial. Commercial always costs more than domestic.
Awesome Idea.
Nice tip. 👍👍
I need to make some of these...they look really handy!
That's a great help Jay, thank you
Let me state the obvious: you’re a rather clever master -
I've learned that the secret to having a dedicated glue-up space, is to have space for a dedicated glue-up space. Too bad I don't have that
Great solution thanks for sharing that.
Great idea. I have also seen mtm wood use this system for glue-ups but failed to use in my workshop. Think I will buy some plastic pipe!
Good idea. 👍
Good idea.
KISS! Thanks!!!!
What a cool idea, thanks for sharing.
Such a smart approach. You mentioned the original idea was MTM or something like that... Mind sharing a link?
Nice!!!! Gotta try that! Thank you for the content
Thanks Jay, that is awesome!!
hello friends greetings healthy and successful always. thank you for sharing knowledge and always faithfully watching your latest things @👏👏👏
Excellent
Thanks for the tips with the pvc pipe. I'm gonna make them for me too. I noticed that you have a filter box over your mini-split. Have you done a video on that. Mine really needs one.
Yes. First watch this one:
ruclips.net/video/S_Li3Z7F8tE/видео.html
Then this one:
ruclips.net/video/takupOBctjA/видео.html
you can use 3 inch square pvc tubing , they use them for gutter downpipes .
To much surface area
What about if you "rip" the pipe in 2 (i.e. along length)? You wouldn't need specific base as anything flat would do (assuming a straight rip) and any base wouldn't need to be continuous - could even make some weird ramp arrangements if a "wedge" glue-up were needed. May even be able to get pre-cut c-section PVC pipe. Could make some "feet" at convenient heights with grooves in them (tight and/or rubber lined for grip) so you could quickly make any arrangement you like - slide the pipe "edges" into the grooves and clamp the "feet". Also, "c-section" pipe can be stored partially inside each other to reduce storage space and any "feet" could just be chucked in a box - where @Jay will never find them again :)
You need enough height to clear the clamp. Halving a 2" pipe will probably cause clearance issues and going up to 3 or 4" pipe would make 'em way too wide.
@@MrStrizver Hence the idea of "feet" - basically what Jay did but thicker and with grooves so that you don't need to screw a round pipe to a square plinth and have more options.
Sweet!
@jaybates can you please do a video on your mini split heater filter? I am constantly needing to use air to blow out the sawdust on mine. Thanks for te great tips.
First watch this one:
ruclips.net/video/S_Li3Z7F8tE/видео.html
Then this one:
ruclips.net/video/takupOBctjA/видео.html
MTM is a wizard! think you might find the clamp risers made by Feldthouse Family Woodworks interesting. They are height adjustable mdf risers that run on a t-track.
Neat idea! Good stuff. :-)
I see a few experienced builders using PVC pipes, and I have been looking to do something like this, but have been concerned that the PVC pipes will flex over time. Your design addresses this. However, many of us have glue up tables that are not perfectly flat, raising the concern that the panel could twist/rack. Is there a way to adjust these to address this? Can one simply look across them like winding sticks to make sure the surfaces of the pipes are co-planer? It looks like MTM may have built in levelers into the wood pads or installed coplaner leveling strips along his dedicated table. I trust your judgment so I tht I'd ask you. Thanks!
Correct, they will telegraph any twist in the table to the glued up panel. However, you can shim the bottom of the pipe holders to get them parallel if your table is not flat.
@@JayBates Thanks.
I like this tool tip!
Great idea🫡
Would a coat of paste wax help with removing any glue squeeze out that gets on the PVC? Thought that might be a "Slick idea!" Don't hate me.
That's cool I like wood work especially when they finished with epoxy Hah 👍
Cool idea!
Thanks for sharing Jay! What apron do you wear?
Remove the black print off the PVC before it transfers to your work. Don't clock the pipe, remove the print, I found out the hard way.
I used this method in New Mexico. However, when I moved to Oklahoma they mysteriously disappeared.
Nice tip!
I believe this is a scam.
Полезное приспособление👍👍👍👍👍
Hey Jay, what happens with the glue that might leak on your table ? If it does, is it easy to clean off. I am going to make these glue up risers as you have shown. Sure wish I could have a shop like yours. WoodShop 21
The table has a finish on it so glue pops off easily. I don't recall if this one has shellac or water based poly. Either works good though.
When cutting PVC pipe with a chop/miter saw do so slowly. If not the pipe will explode and cause injury. I speak from experience.
Great idea!
Thanks...
So what was that monster glue up in the end going to be?
One day pine dining table build.
Would a dowel inside one end hold 2 together straight enough that they all could be shorter, or that the 2 shorts could be a spare long one?
If you watch MTM you will see that it's not necessary
Jay, what if you ran a pipe clamp through the PVC so that if the piece was just slightly larger than the PVC you could really easily clamp it?
Try it and let us know
Hey another method. Check out epic upcycling. He's in the UK but his panel glue set up is simple and seems to work great also. Only uses 2 clamps no matter the size!
What he makes out of pallets is crazy and saves the nails to. But yer great way to glue up also
very cool
Nice👍👍👍👍
Really simple and scalable, thanks for the video! Also loved your assembly table. Did you share plans for this or did I missed it? :)