How I set the timing on the VW engine air cooled flat 4
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
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The curve on the fuel line from the pump to the carb is absolutely perfect. Beautiful. My OCD approves 💪😂
Thank you Mike for this video , never did this next step on checking my timing. Back in the 70's my experience was 99% rebuilding or machining the motors; I was the "Machinist" next step was for the "car Mechanic" different skill- set which i had a great amount of respect for thier skill set. I wanted to understand thier trade ; I went to a adult trade shcool to sign up for mechanic classes. But then I saw they also offered Tool & Die classes and a four journeymens program; I signed up, my passion was in the machining. I still have my Sears timing light and my RPM & dwell meter I bought back in the 70's when i thought i would be taking mechanic class.
Would have been nice of you to show exactly how to use the dwell meter instead of just saying "use a dwell meter". I think you neglected to tell folks that they must move the distributor to adjust the timing while the engine is running at full advance. Rather a neat trick with one person. Holding the revs with one hand, a timing light with the other, and then with your 3rd hand adjust the distributor and tighten down the 10 mm. Hmm. Good to have an assistant if you are going to do it your way. Just a thought. Also, you might want to do a video to show people how to initially set STATIC timing, to get in the ballpark, before ever pulling out the light. The relative position of the vacuum canister (when the dist. is in place correctly) and where the rotor should point when the motor is at TDC and the dist. is seated correctly and not 180 out.
you do a very good, & clear explaination of this timing procedure, you'd make a good teacher, you take pride in your work it shows.
Hello Mike, thanks for posting this video, it’s one of my favourite topics. It’s frustrating when ignition timing is ignored - it’s so important. There’s videos with folk trying to start an engine while skewing the distributor back and forth hoping for the best !. I suppose if you are stuck on the side of the road with the points closed up, a simple car bulb and wire to positive will enable a static adjustment to get you going again, with points gap reset to. I’m sure you know what I mean....but I’ve fixed many starting problems with ignition timing / dwell angle issues in the dim and very distant past. The 6V VWs were fussy in that the ignition set up was particularly important given the lower voltage, not much capacity for any lost efficiency. If the timing was poor, battery low and issues with the engine earth, you needed many prayers to start it.... keep the good videos going, I’m enthralled by the ‘62 bucket truck restoration...
Great video Mike! I like the timing light that shows both rpm and timing. Mine I have to switch back and forth. I use a 12v battery to use an updated timing light on a 6v system. A lot of people miss the grease on the cam of the distributor. Glad you point that out.
Thank you Mike. Almost from the pages from John Muir. Long live VW aircools!!
Great informative video, never too old to learn
Very helpful. Thank you for posting this video.
Well yea I got all kinds of things going on with my 62. Between the right fuel pressure, carb adjusted properly, and timing who knows why it runs like crap right now. Gotta get back up on it😂 thanks for all your knowledge
Very interesting compared to the way I used to tune my old bug. Haha, I still have my dwell meter and timing light from the 60's. I've been keeping the dwell for when I get another bug someday. I'm old book so probably stay with the points if I get one
Great guide and info! Thanks!
No problem!
Thank's your reading my mind doing the same thing this weakend great video
You can do it!
Mike
Here in the uk I have had over 400 cars I use to by cars do them up resale them ford escorts vaxhall vivas Austin maxie. renult 12 datsuns Honda etc I have always used a basic strobe timing light had no problems then I used a gunson colour tune to set the fuel mixture if u don't know what this is u stil buy one of eBay it's like a small spark plug u take out no one plug screw this in start the engine until nice and hot you look down in the plug hole u will see it flashing the the colour is blue the fuel mixture is correct if not ajust mixture until blue Phil in the uk
Good info, thx!
This is the best explained video ive seen.
Very good job on explaining. What about Bosch made outside of Germany, which is so common today?
I thought it should between 28-32 with the vacuum advance unhooked and the port blocked? Then when hooked up at around 3-3500 rpm it will go up to around 40 degrees?
no when your doing full advance you should have the vacuum port connected. run the engine up until it reaches full advance. that should be at 28 degrees with all advancing mechanisms working. Stock 28 degrees.....some engines with high performance cam and low compression may need higher advance but that is extenuating circumstances.
I tried yesterday with a non degree timing light. I saw 29/30 degrees while at idle not throttled up. I run pertronix svda and high output coil. Every time I touched metal, I'd get shocked. I was hooked up to coil at first then off alternator still same. Any ideas?
I have a Type 4 2.0 with dual Weber 44's, what would you recommend for a pointless system for these engines? Thanks Mike
Manga spark 3 from CB performance
i had an electronic ignition, but they have a tendency to go out without warning and leave you totally stranded. Yes you have to adjust the points but I think its actually more reliable
Keep the points dizzy with you just in case. However I agree that they are better for day to day, and points in case of emergency.
One compfire one pertronix each failed without notice priced out to a lot of points/condenser sets.
@@erikhilsinger9421 Same, they go out suddenly and without any warning. The day before mine suddenly cut out I had been driving through the mountains near me, no cell service whatsoever. Thankfully nothing happened until the next day when I was in town and near my house.
6v electronic ignitions can make the car hard to start. The starter draws too much voltage and then there’s not enough left for the ignition.
yea that is why this one is points. but man the points today are sure cheap no bakolite rub blocks. just plastic. they just dont last. plus the condensers fail like regularly.
I would switch to 'point-less' but can't find one for a 6 VOLT system.
Google pertronix
👍
There’s nothing wrong with the points system! In fact, if your gen, or alt. Should fail, and your battery starts draining, the points system will continue to work. The coil will make spark at less than 12v. With some electronic setups , it will just shut off at less than 12v. With the points, you might limp the car home.
True but the biggest problem I have is the quality of the points today are terrible and the condensers especially they fail often versus the other way
thanks for great info , boycott any chinesey cheesy ,use only brazil ,mexico,germany new old stock .
And do not buy cheap dist. the one I got for 29.99 is a junk. The top of the shaft wobbles worse than my old one and there is no way to adjust the points like that. The old one costed 17.50 in 86? It was a good one.
Don't do this. If you leave the vacuum line connected your 28-30 degree under load has little to no vacuum. So your more like 22-24 BTDC. Please look at more than one video and fact check it. Including this one.
This video is not helpful,talking about that timing gun is just confusing. He shows motor running and being timed, and if your motor won't stay running to time it, then what? Not helpful...
I just had this issue. My motor wouldn’t stay idle and would shut off. I realized o have a vacuum leak in my manifold and had to replace my metal ring gaskets. They were bent. We also took out the points and condenser and replaced those with an electronic ignition. It was able to start and stay running. Good to check for those things.
The delay on the distributor shaft's #3 lobe is strictly for the non-doghouse fan shroud, as the oil cooler is blocking the fan from blowing on #3 cylinder the most, and that tends to make cylinder #3 run hotter.
That's the deciding factor ......
your style of shroud dictates what distributor you should be using.
Non doghouse shrouds get a delayed cylinder #3 distributor.
Shrouds with the doghouse get the even four lobe distributor.
Also, that delay on #3 gives a distinct lumpy cam sound to the running engine. Even more so on a larger CC engines ..
So ... if you desire a smoother running engine ... find the distributor with the 4 even lobes.
Cheers.