Chris Valone is the MAN! His videos are the absolute best for us "newbies" who don't really know everything yet. He makes things easy for us to understand and follow. Thanks Chris!!!
Great video. This has to be the best video for setting the timing on RUclips... After at least a dozen others, you covered all the details that I needed. thanks!
I'm able to keep my bug as a daily driver thanks to your videos. Other channels use highliy professional tools that cost too much for a feller to keep at home. You keep things simple and reasonable for the common folk
Great car to start young , buy a good manual, Haynes or idiots guide... Start by keeping things stock spec. Aim to use the best quality parts from Germany by Bosch for electric and ignition parts, SachsBoges for clutch and shocks, Michelin Tyres , not cheap but the best, remember your life depends on them when on the freeway, on a cold,dark,wet night . That's when you will be glad not to have got the cheap chindian parts that won't last!
I really appreciate your videos......They are very helpful.....My 1956 with an 1835 runs great thanks to you sharing your knowledge.........Thanks Chris
Thank you for this video, Chris. I'm getting the exact opposite problem where I'm not getting the light to turn on at all. I'm using an SVDA distributor with a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, and Pertronix coil. From what I can see, everything is connected correctly.
Thanks Chris, My alternator post band clamp snapped and the old alternator moved and threw the belt. The engine got pretty hot as a result of the fan not spinning. I don't think I did any major damage. The engine is a just run in Stan Pobjoy 1600, Stan machined out to 1916cc. Twin port heads, machined cam and dual Kadron carbs with a sidewinder exhaust. It starts and runs now although it is now popping and idling rough. The plugs were pretty bad and number 4 plug lead broke when I removed it, it was cooked. I changed the oil, I put new spark plugs, new ignition leads and a new alternator. I have re wired to an internal regulator type. I noticed that the rotor button is nowhere near number 1 now on my 009 dizzy. All new parts now fitted, I will re tune tomorrow and cross my fingers. Thanks for the well explained easy to do tune. My expertise is more body and paintwork.
Important note: When rotating the crank pulley to set at your timing mark make sure you are rotating in the direction of rotation (clockwise) before stopping. If you go past your mark, back up the pulley an inch past your intended mark and then rotate clockwise again, then stop at your mark. This keeps all the gear clearance slack on the correct side (distributor drive to crank gear AND distributor drive to the bottom of the distributor itself).
Back up means to go back, going left (opposite of right meaning, going counter clockwise) so before your mark, but then you said past the mark which would be clockwise continuation. Did you mean?: if you got past your mark (clockwise), now turn counter clockwise, and stop at one inch before your make, now proceed to go clockwise
Chris that an old school cool way to time the Car. Brings me back to when I was in collage and I use to drive my car with what I used to call the VW trip kit. My test light, a spare coil, belt and accelerator cable. 😀... l like this video very much.
You are wonderful my friend Chris I am always following you and follow the instructions from you to my cars thank you very much and wish you progress always
This really made this easy, thank you! I'd been struggling to figure out if my timing was off, resulting in me not being able to start my sandrail. Now that I have the timing correct and it still won't start, at least I can go on to try and address other potential issues.
Also, after your timing light ignites tighten down the distributor, roll pulley counter-clockwise until light goes out. Then roll pulley clockwise and see specifically where the timing light ignites. This gives you an accurate place where ignition will happen.
Hi Community, Excellent video and I put it into practice and it worked but my son accidentally replaced the battery and placed positive and negative backwards and I don't understand comkk ok I was able to start the car without problems at the time. It worked well for the first 2 days but today is the 3rd day and watching your video to check with the one lit by the lamp I placed the negative on the negative coil and without moving the distributor rotor I placed the peak of the lamp on the bottom dealer and turn on.
Nevermind, somehow it all worked out. I still used the check light as it blinked off while at TDC, and its never run better. I just needed to charge the battery and get fuel into the system. Thanks buddy, you saved me money and I had the pleasure of fixing it myself. That's what bugs are all about, right?
Thanks. I think this will work. I knocked the gas line off while playing with it earlier. I didn't realize I needed all those tools. Well I need a video on installing points.. We will see what happens.... lol! - Monica
Hi Chris,first-up I appreciate your effort to take time to put vw newbies on the right road and you come across as a stand-up guy. I live in Ireland and have a 1200 Standard Bug daily driver for 7 years.It is a 72 marina blue with matching numbers,running og engine at 88,000 miles I did a top-end rebuild last year,so-far so-good!I am surprised to see in your timing vid. that a 009 distributor is used seeing as the engine code is a D albeit an earlier one than mine and they run sweeter in stock form with a vacuum advance distributor.009 is for flat-out foot-to-floor driving not daily drivers,unless a twin-carb setup is used.Little tip use a stock ERNST exhaust and remove the baffles from the stock pea-shooter tailpipes for cheap extra pep!
Hey brilliant tutorial ill use this method when my '61 beetle is finished. I have a question, will this work on a water-cooled engine from a T25/Vanagon?
Holy shhh I have been chasing a misfire On the sandrail I’m restoring The video I watched said to time to TDC I’m wondering if that 7.5 degrees is where I’m going wrong and the test light trick is also something I haven’t tried So excited to try it tomorrow Thanks dude
Not hard to take a turn signal bulb and solder a couple wires with alligator clips on them, made one myself. Clipping the ground to the carburetor linkage sure does make it easier, thank you. 😃 Early cast iron distributor set to 7,5 degrees.
Chris, thanks for this video, it was a big help on my first project car. I have a new one that I had do a complete replacement of the wiring loom. When I turn the key I get the two light in the speedo, but I don't get any light on my test light when doing this test. Other than recheck your connections, is there anything you can think of that I might need to do? I am really stumped at this point...
Ht's all on right points now, timing it tomorrow, however getting different info for it, some say the usual 5 and 7.5BTDC however found something earlier saying 5ATDC, if you had any ideas on it that would be great as im not too used to working on bug engines! thanks again!
finally, cleaned and gaped the plugs and points. but using this timing method i nailed it. Its a great feeling with it starts and runs good, even drove it around the back yard. Thanks Chris for all the video!
Hey Chris I really appreciate your videos! I have a question if you could find the time? My question is I was trying to rewire my bug and I done away with the voltage regulator and put the alternator on instead of the generator, what does it mean when my switch is off and the light in the car stays on, I guess its getting double fed? Also my test light stays on when I turned the switch off on the distributer like your video. Could you please help me out! Thanks for the video and keep them coming!
on my 68 with vac adv my number 1 is the where urs with out it is, i followed my wire checked the valves to confirm and as part of the tune up im doin cause its running crappy at the moment. i when i do wat u do to adjust the timing i only get a quick flicker of the light, i doesnt stay on in any spot, so ibout another test light and get the same thing so i was guessing that thats the spot i want it for my timing?
great tutorial, does this method work with every bug? my parents got a -72 bug with vacuum advance distributor, does that make any difference with the settings?
Just this Chris on my 67 bus --- I had the dimple and V notch at 7.5 degrees, did the negative post and carb base with a VOM and read 12V, turned it, read 1 volt, back to reading 12 and bolt it down, hit the key and wa la it started right up -- I could not get it to start a few days ago -- plus plug wire 3 was not conected...THANKS !
Hi Chris great footage, just one question I know you say you time your bugs at 7.5 degrees before top dead centre is it still the same with svda distributor on a 1600 dual port with 34 pict 3 set up? Thanks
@brighteyefilms I just did what this video said and it worked! My car starts fine! but now im idling REALLY low and its misfiring all over the place and now everything else seems wrong.... what do i do!? please respond ASAP!
Hi: Thanks for your videos! it teach me a lot on how to make the adjustments of my beloved beetle. Just one question: I live in a place whit high elevation (3000mts as cusco), I've heard that when adjusting timing I have to advance more than 7 1/2 even to 15 degrees. Is there any formula to calculate that?
First of all very good video, I bought my wife a 74 Bus would it be the same setting as the bugs. And will this method work on the t4 porche engine. Im new to vw's so not very sure and trying to learn.
Hi there, currently working on a 1973 1300 beetle, previous owner done majority of work, im just finishing her up. it has had a 1600cc unleaded conversion kit fitted, two twin 40mm solex carbs, Monza exhaust, bosch 009 distributor, tried to fire it up, backfired and almost set fire to right hand carb, my guess would be that the ignition timing is way out and needs adjusting, what would be your advice? Many thanks, and great video! Cheers, joe.
The test light just indicates that the circuit is complete right? In theory would you be able to do this with a multimeter that has a continuity test setting?
Yeah you would time the same way with an electronic ignition. If you have way off readings from a static to a timing lights, could be the distributor. They should be the same.
You can't time the double vacuum distributors this way, 1971 thru 74. I'd love to see a timing light tutorial with the later 34 PICT 3 factory distributors, which have to be timed with both vacuums attached to 5 ATDC while the car is running.
Hi, I have a few questions, Is the way your showing here the same point I would use if I was using a timing light. I checked mine today and its like 34 degrees BTDC, Why is mine so much different then yours? I am changing mine out to a electronic one instead of points and would I time it the same way as my one with the points?
chris, would this cause it to use more gas or smell like gas if my beetle is not timed right? i been looking through all your videos and they been helping me out but still havent found my problem, but thanks :)
If you are on the road and you have no test lamp on hand simply disconnect the cable from the oil pressure switch and use the oil pressure indicator as your test lamp. You have to look through the rear window to see the lamp. The other end of the lamp ist connected to plus 12 or 6 Volt. So all you need is the wrench with the 10 mm socket. So the beetle comes with a built-in monitor for ignition timing. How cool is that.
Hi Chris, my family has had the same Beetle for 51yrs ,it’s been stored in my Dads garage for 40yrs ,we are going to try to get it back to life again ,it’s a 1964 Vw beetle 1200 6volt what fuel should I put in it ? Cheers Jon
So what if you have the same notches as you do just the opposite direction? So like your first notch (tdc) is on the other side of the 7.5 and 10 degree notches? 1973 original everything minus the new addition of vacuum advanced distributor.
Now what if I’m running a 1776cc how much do I advance or what is the benefit of advanced timing I’m kinda new and I bit off a lot of motor for my first project, it recently stopped running at a stoplight after about an hour of running it it would crank over for half a second but not stay cranked over I’m thinking my valves need adjusted again or I jumped timing
I am doing a tune up on my sister's beetle with 1600 empi racing motor, I am having an issue where the light would not turn off, and now it won't turn on, any suggestions on what to try or what may be wrong Edit: Found that when the light went out I had lost power to the coil, not sure if there is a burnt up wire or a bad ground.
I have a 1300cc with and 30pict-2 carb and 009 distro. Is this the correct method to set the pulley at 7.5btdc? Because I’m reading it should be set to 28 - 32 degrees since I have a 009 distro, unless that’s not on the pulley itself and maybe something entirely different
Hi Chris Great video ! 👍 you mentioned that when you have the shorter distributor that you set the timing with the pulley at TDC...so is that all vacuum advance distributors get timed at TDC and only the 009 gets timed at 7 1/2 before TDC ? Thanx !! 😊
@@classicvwbugs thanx for the reply ...have a few lol...was just wondering if the rule was if it has vac. Adv. Set at TDC....and no vac. Adv....set at 7 1/2 btdc
So if I were to be running a 1600 based 1835 with Empi 009 distributor would I still follow the 7 1/2 degree rule for base timing? Everyone keeps giving me conflicting information on this motor...
Хобби
Chris Valone is the MAN! His videos are the absolute best for us "newbies" who don't really know everything yet. He makes things easy for us to understand and follow. Thanks Chris!!!
thank you so much!
Great video. This has to be the best video for setting the timing on RUclips... After at least a dozen others, you covered all the details that I needed. thanks!
No more dying at idle! You’re an amazing teacher man thank you so much
Just restoring the 66 bug I drove in High School back in the early 90's for my sophomore son. You're videos are invaluable! Thank you for making them.
Thank you for all your contributions to the veedub community. Your how-to videos are a big help in keeping my bug alive!
So nice of you
Thanks again Chris. Never knew that could be done. Thanks for all the time you put into the art.
Worked like magic! OH how I needed You And RUclips 30 years ago! Thanks!
I'm able to keep my bug as a daily driver thanks to your videos.
Other channels use highliy professional tools that cost too much for a feller to keep at home. You keep things simple and reasonable for the common folk
Chris you info is invaluable for a VW newbie like me who ain't too SMRT!
THANKS FELLA
Phil
I'm only 16 and wanting to fix up an old bug. I have very little mechanical experience, but your videos are so kiss.
Great car to start young , buy a good manual, Haynes or idiots guide... Start by keeping things stock spec. Aim to use the best quality parts from Germany by Bosch for electric and ignition parts, SachsBoges for clutch and shocks, Michelin Tyres , not cheap but the best, remember your life depends on them when on the freeway, on a cold,dark,wet night . That's when you will be glad not to have got the cheap chindian parts that won't last!
I really appreciate your videos......They are very helpful.....My 1956 with an 1835 runs great thanks to you sharing your knowledge.........Thanks Chris
Thank you for this video, Chris. I'm getting the exact opposite problem where I'm not getting the light to turn on at all. I'm using an SVDA distributor with a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, and Pertronix coil. From what I can see, everything is connected correctly.
Thanks Chris, My alternator post band clamp snapped and the old alternator moved and threw the belt. The engine got pretty hot as a result of the fan not spinning. I don't think I did any major damage. The engine is a just run in Stan Pobjoy 1600, Stan machined out to 1916cc. Twin port heads, machined cam and dual Kadron carbs with a sidewinder exhaust. It starts and runs now although it is now popping and idling rough. The plugs were pretty bad and number 4 plug lead broke when I removed it, it was cooked. I changed the oil, I put new spark plugs, new ignition leads and a new alternator. I have re wired to an internal regulator type. I noticed that the rotor button is nowhere near number 1 now on my 009 dizzy. All new parts now fitted, I will re tune tomorrow and cross my fingers. Thanks for the well explained easy to do tune. My expertise is more body and paintwork.
Thanks Chris brilliant help you give . Details on how fix vw beetles is a valuable service for me and the other viewer's .
Important note: When rotating the crank pulley to set at your timing mark make sure you are rotating in the direction of rotation (clockwise) before stopping. If you go past your mark, back up the pulley an inch past your intended mark and then rotate clockwise again, then stop at your mark. This keeps all the gear clearance slack on the correct side (distributor drive to crank gear AND distributor drive to the bottom of the distributor itself).
I do that, good thinkin bro.
Good advice Michael, thanks,
Back up means to go back, going left (opposite of right meaning, going counter clockwise) so before your mark, but then you said past the mark which would be clockwise continuation. Did you mean?: if you got past your mark (clockwise), now turn counter clockwise, and stop at one inch before your make, now proceed to go clockwise
@@DEATHWISHVQ8:09
F
Brilliant ! Just one thing was missing at the end, to start to engine and listen to it ! Thanks a million though !
Chris that an old school cool way to time the Car. Brings me back to when I was in collage and I use to drive my car with what I used to call the VW trip kit. My test light, a spare coil, belt and accelerator cable. 😀... l like this video very much.
Sorry typo ... when I was in college 😀😀
Thank you for the help we've got from you. Specifically for the value degree of timing marks.
Great video, just used this and your valve video as a reference. Just bought a second vw sandrail and trying to get it all tuned up!
Just wanted to say thanks for this tip man! I just did it and it worked flawlessly.
Just saying thanks for all the good videos. Took mine for the first good drive last night and your videos were a big part of the process.
Very cool 👍 thanks so much.
You are wonderful my friend Chris I am always following you and follow the instructions from you to my cars thank you very much and wish you progress always
This really made this easy, thank you! I'd been struggling to figure out if my timing was off, resulting in me not being able to start my sandrail. Now that I have the timing correct and it still won't start, at least I can go on to try and address other potential issues.
Thanks a lot. Very HELPFUL, my pulley has the front dimple and the 5.5 degrees ATDC and was NOT SURE what to do. THANKS A LOT AGAIN.
Excellent video! Had all the info i need to clear up the confusion of why my pullee had 2 marks and not 3. Thank you!
Your video was very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this for people like us
Thank you. Wish you were here in Colorado Springs I would have you work on my van.
As always... great instructions and in layman terms!! Thanks
Thank you for a great lesson no chatter no blah blah blah just to the point!
Thanks for mentioning the 'stubby' distributor - this is what I've got and was always slightly out.
Also, after your timing light ignites tighten down the distributor, roll pulley counter-clockwise until light goes out. Then roll pulley clockwise and see specifically where the timing light ignites. This gives you an accurate place where ignition will happen.
you saved my nerves my money and my Bug; Master i am thankful for every detail you showed us.., 🙏
wow thank you, those are some crazy words. Just here to help you guys! =)
Hi Community, Excellent video and I put it into practice and it worked but my son accidentally replaced the battery and placed positive and negative backwards and I don't understand comkk ok I was able to start the car without problems at the time. It worked well for the first 2 days but today is the 3rd day and watching your video to check with the one lit by the lamp I placed the negative on the negative coil and without moving the distributor rotor I placed the peak of the lamp on the bottom dealer and turn on.
Nevermind, somehow it all worked out. I still used the check light as it blinked off while at TDC, and its never run better. I just needed to charge the battery and get fuel into the system. Thanks buddy, you saved me money and I had the pleasure of fixing it myself. That's what bugs are all about, right?
Thanks. I think this will work. I knocked the gas line off while playing with it earlier. I didn't realize I needed all those tools. Well I need a video on installing points.. We will see what happens.... lol!
- Monica
Dizzy? Lol. Another good video. I'm glad you said the part about the split in the block reference
Hi Chris,first-up I appreciate your effort to take time to put vw newbies on the right road and you come across as a stand-up guy. I live in Ireland and have a 1200 Standard Bug daily driver for 7 years.It is a 72 marina blue with matching numbers,running og engine at 88,000 miles I did a top-end rebuild last year,so-far so-good!I am surprised to see in your timing vid. that a 009 distributor is used seeing as the engine code is a D albeit an earlier one than mine and they run sweeter in stock form with a vacuum advance distributor.009 is for flat-out foot-to-floor driving not daily drivers,unless a twin-carb setup is used.Little tip use a stock ERNST exhaust and remove the baffles from the stock pea-shooter tailpipes for cheap extra pep!
Hey brilliant tutorial ill use this method when my '61 beetle is finished. I have a question, will this work on a water-cooled engine from a T25/Vanagon?
It is 10 30PM Friday night and I watched this video, I know you must be tried of people thanking you, but thanks for sharing this is a big help.
ah it is all good man, you are very welcome! =o)
Mate brilliant video and very helpful and easy to understand
You have to be able to time it statically regardless. You have to make sure the timing light is on the neg side of the coil.
Awesome! Thank you very much! I was wondering if there's anyway I can replace the engine bay seals without drooping the engine?
Thank you Chris for the amazing video and what you think about Pertronix I was looking in to them for my 1600.
Holy shhh
I have been chasing a misfire
On the sandrail I’m restoring
The video I watched said to time to TDC
I’m wondering if that 7.5 degrees is where I’m going wrong
and the test light trick is also something I haven’t tried
So excited to try it tomorrow
Thanks dude
Ty Very much! First time working on my Bug. Much sucess to you. 🙏💚
amazing video thanks for sharing im going too try this later this week on my bug
Great video Vallone!
Not hard to take a turn signal bulb and solder a couple wires with alligator clips on them, made one myself. Clipping the ground to the carburetor linkage sure does make it easier, thank you. 😃
Early cast iron distributor set to 7,5 degrees.
Chris, thanks for this video, it was a big help on my first project car. I have a new one that I had do a complete replacement of the wiring loom. When I turn the key I get the two light in the speedo, but I don't get any light on my test light when doing this test. Other than recheck your connections, is there anything you can think of that I might need to do? I am really stumped at this point...
Ht's all on right points now, timing it tomorrow, however getting different info for it, some say the usual 5 and 7.5BTDC however found something earlier saying 5ATDC, if you had any ideas on it that would be great as im not too used to working on bug engines! thanks again!
Ok that was ridiculously easy!!, thanks for sharing the super secret and "how to"...
finally, cleaned and gaped the plugs and points. but using this timing method i nailed it. Its a great feeling with it starts and runs good, even drove it around the back yard. Thanks Chris for all the video!
ah you are welcome my friend.
The only video that makes sence. Thank you!
Hey Chris I really appreciate your videos! I have a question if you could find the time? My question is I was trying to rewire my bug and I done away with the voltage regulator and put the alternator on instead of the generator, what does it mean when my switch is off and the light in the car stays on, I guess its getting double fed? Also my test light stays on when I turned the switch off on the distributer like your video. Could you please help me out! Thanks for the video and keep them coming!
Thanks mate, solved my puzzle too!
Turn the key off...yer makin me nervous. You have the best VW content. Is it a block, a case, a motor, an engine??? Who cares...it's a V - Dub.
on my 68 with vac adv my number 1 is the where urs with out it is, i followed my wire checked the valves to confirm and as part of the tune up im doin cause its running crappy at the moment. i when i do wat u do to adjust the timing i only get a quick flicker of the light, i doesnt stay on in any spot, so ibout another test light and get the same thing so i was guessing that thats the spot i want it for my timing?
great tutorial, does this method work with every bug? my parents got a -72 bug with vacuum advance distributor, does that make any difference with the settings?
Just this Chris on my 67 bus --- I had the dimple and V notch at 7.5 degrees, did the negative post and carb base with a VOM and read 12V, turned it, read 1 volt, back to reading 12 and bolt it down, hit the key and wa la it started right up -- I could not get it to start a few days ago -- plus plug wire 3 was not conected...THANKS !
6 years later and I am back again...same vehicle...different engine....
Hi Chris great footage, just one question I know you say you time your bugs at 7.5 degrees before top dead centre is it still the same with svda distributor on a 1600 dual port with 34 pict 3 set up? Thanks
Thank you. This was extremely helpful!
Great video ! Any chance you or anyone knows If this still works with pertronix? Thanks
Brilliant video!
Thanks for the video i have a full injected beetle how can i do it
Just checking to make sure if I have spark advance I set it straight up at 0 top dead center right? Thanks
Thanks for the video. Do you know what the test lights are actually called?
@brighteyefilms I just did what this video said and it worked! My car starts fine! but now im idling REALLY low and its misfiring all over the place and now everything else seems wrong.... what do i do!? please respond ASAP!
Hi: Thanks for your videos! it teach me a lot on how to make the adjustments of my beloved beetle. Just one question: I live in a place whit high elevation (3000mts as cusco), I've heard that when adjusting timing I have to advance more than 7 1/2 even to 15 degrees. Is there any formula to calculate that?
The green vacuum ball must take care of it...
First of all very good video, I bought my wife a 74 Bus would it be the same setting as the bugs. And will this method work on the t4 porche engine. Im new to vw's so not very sure and trying to learn.
this video is great.. one question when i hook my light up it stays on it doesnt go off ever. what could that be . thank s
Hi there, currently working on a 1973 1300 beetle, previous owner done majority of work, im just finishing her up. it has had a 1600cc unleaded conversion kit fitted, two twin 40mm solex carbs, Monza exhaust, bosch 009 distributor, tried to fire it up, backfired and almost set fire to right hand carb, my guess would be that the ignition timing is way out and needs adjusting, what would be your advice?
Many thanks, and great video!
Cheers, joe.
Aqui no Brasil, devido a mistura de álcool na gasolina, geralmente deixamos o ponto de ignição entre 12,5 e 15 graus.
Thanks for this. My 74 ghia is sputtering for about 2 seconds after I turn it off. Only after it has run for more than 30 min or so.
Hi
My 72 1200 bug has a pulley with a dimple and a v opposite is this set at 7.5? also running a vacuum advanced dizzy.
The test light just indicates that the circuit is complete right? In theory would you be able to do this with a multimeter that has a continuity test setting?
You're awesome dude. Perfect explanation.
Thank you so much 👍
Yeah you would time the same way with an electronic ignition. If you have way off readings from a static to a timing lights, could be the distributor. They should be the same.
You can't time the double vacuum distributors this way, 1971 thru 74. I'd love to see a timing light tutorial with the later 34 PICT 3 factory distributors, which have to be timed with both vacuums attached to 5 ATDC while the car is running.
As you move the pulley will the rotor move to 1 at the same time? or do you have to lift off and move to pos 1, as i have electric ignition
Hi, I have a few questions, Is the way your showing here the same point I would use if I was using a timing light. I checked mine today and its like 34 degrees BTDC, Why is mine so much different then yours? I am changing mine out to a electronic one instead of points and would I time it the same way as my one with the points?
chris, would this cause it to use more gas or smell like gas if my beetle is not timed right? i been looking through all your videos and they been helping me out but still havent found my problem, but thanks :)
Hey Chris,
I was wondering if this will work with a electronic ignition? Because it has a negative and positive wire connected to the coil.
If you are on the road and you have no test lamp on hand simply disconnect the cable from the oil pressure switch and use the oil pressure indicator as your test lamp. You have to look through the rear window to see the lamp. The other end of the lamp ist connected to plus 12 or 6 Volt. So all you need is the wrench with the 10 mm socket. So the beetle comes with a built-in monitor for ignition timing. How cool is that.
Or just go buy a $3 test light at HFT
The piston is at tdc at the top of the exhaust stroke too. Maybe do a video about that little head scratcher.
wow , that it's really useful , thx :)
Hi Chris, my family has had the same Beetle for 51yrs ,it’s been stored in my Dads garage for 40yrs ,we are going to try to get it back to life again ,it’s a 1964 Vw beetle 1200 6volt what fuel should I put in it ? Cheers Jon
Thanks for the tutorial! Can you use this same method with an SVDA distributor with an electronic ignition system?
you can, but some electronic ignitions do not work with the test light, some do some dont.
Can you make a video about timing a 1600 with timing gun with 009 dizzy I've tired but not sure thanks
School of Vallone Works, Inc.
👍 Thx for clear instructions!
How does the test light turn on if it is on the negative side? Doesnt it need a power?
ayyy 4 months later after getting motivation to work on my bug im back on this video lol
So what if you have the same notches as you do just the opposite direction? So like your first notch (tdc) is on the other side of the 7.5 and 10 degree notches? 1973 original everything minus the new addition of vacuum advanced distributor.
Now what if I’m running a 1776cc how much do I advance or what is the benefit of advanced timing I’m kinda new and I bit off a lot of motor for my first project, it recently stopped running at a stoplight after about an hour of running it it would crank over for half a second but not stay cranked over I’m thinking my valves need adjusted again or I jumped timing
I am doing a tune up on my sister's beetle with 1600 empi racing motor, I am having an issue where the light would not turn off, and now it won't turn on, any suggestions on what to try or what may be wrong
Edit: Found that when the light went out I had lost power to the coil, not sure if there is a burnt up wire or a bad ground.
@AMRIE21 If you look under his videos, he has two videos (part 1 and part 2) on how to adjust your valves.
Good luck with the beetle!
I have a 1300cc with and 30pict-2 carb and 009 distro. Is this the correct method to set the pulley at 7.5btdc? Because I’m reading it should be set to 28 - 32 degrees since I have a 009 distro, unless that’s not on the pulley itself and maybe something entirely different
Buenas noches esa tecnica solo es para distribuidor a platino o tambien para encendido electrónico con distribuidor de sensor hall.
sup chris i wanted to know about the vacuum wat does it exactly do and wat doess the condenser do how do i know if its not working thanks
Hi Chris Great video ! 👍 you mentioned that when you have the shorter distributor that you set the timing with the pulley at TDC...so is that all vacuum advance distributors get timed at TDC and only the 009 gets timed at 7 1/2 before TDC ? Thanx !! 😊
what year bug do you have? Most if not all short stubby distributors set at TDC. Anything tall like the 009s, go 7.5BTDC
@@classicvwbugs thanx for the reply ...have a few lol...was just wondering if the rule was if it has vac. Adv. Set at TDC....and no vac. Adv....set at 7 1/2 btdc
So if I were to be running a 1600 based 1835 with Empi 009 distributor would I still follow the 7 1/2 degree rule for base timing? Everyone keeps giving me conflicting information on this motor...