Really enjoyed your wheeling video. I have a JT on tons and 40s with a gfc camper. I ran the rubicon 4+ times this summer in it. These gladiators on 40s do work.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor i agree completely. I use the oil/trans skid from M.O.R.E. in aluminum to cover vulnerable oil pan, trans and trans lines the rest is stock... and i wheel very technical rock stuff. best advice is to also get Rusty's Off Road rear frame side lower control arm skids... must have for the gladiator!
Me here agonizing over trying to find the cheapest Glad in US and I realize you have two?! 😂 I mean...its for the job content right? Great Vid as always. Awesome to see the kids enjoying the "break" from wheeling (pun intended). Take care.
people greatly under estimate how capable the stock rock sliders are. You need to be in between cliffs to benefit from upgraded sliders that go up right underneath the doors
Thats a great run down of your trip. Im not up to speed on the Gladiators specs but what does the Mits set up do to your GVW? Curious about how the frame stands up to those beds. Ive watched a lot of the Aussie about stretches and GVW upgrades etc. Great truck and great videos!
The tray and bed together weigh around 750 pounds. I’m guessing I removed around 350 pounds (maybe more) pulling the stock bed, rear bumper, corner guards, and stock receiver hitch. I haven’t done anything to reinforce the frame, but it is something I’ve looked into. I do have a full-float rear axle and high-capacity springs, so the load carrying portion of those areas are fine. When it’s loaded down with gear (and the spare on the back) I’m easily nearing or possibly exceeding the original payload numbers.
Thank you! They are 7-inch driving lights from GG Lighting. Those are covers that come with the lights. You can swap them out for clear and green as well.
Ali thanks for the recap video. Any more thoughts on 72.5 vs 68.5 was axles? I’m about to copy your build with an inch more lift and would like the more narrow wheel base. Is the width worth being forced to run 5.5bs?
I still like the 72.5’s. It drove so nice even without the hydro assist. It always feels very stable as well. I’m going to swap in 4.5 inch springs at some point. Everything else, I am very happy with.
I know you are asking Ali but I like the idea of the wider axles with more backspacing to get you the same track width. It will be easier to steer and less stress on the ball joints. And if you want it wider in the future it is easier to change wheels than get new axles.
Harry thanks a ton for the info as well and also thanks for the content. You guys at DL are badass. Yeah may as well go wide and mask it with higher BS. You guys rock.
Thanks for the quality video and information! I do have a question though that you might know. Lately when I turn my gladiator left or right it feels like gravel and makes a squeaky rubber sound. Seems to just be getting worse. It sort of feels like trying to make a tight turn when in 4 low. The gravel feel is felt in the steering wheel. I’ve checked the fluid level and it’s full. Any suggestions?
I would start with looking at the ball joints, then make your way out to the wheel bearings. The ball joints are a common wear point on the Gladiator more so than the tie-rod ends and unit bearings.
Make sure you watch the overhanging trees and rocks with all that nice camper setup.
Oh, I am! The Mits bed is a bit wider than the original one. So, there's a bit of a re-learn process off-road for sure.
Really enjoyed your wheeling video. I have a JT on tons and 40s with a gfc camper. I ran the rubicon 4+ times this summer in it. These gladiators on 40s do work.
Thank you! I wish I lived close enough to run it frequently. Such an awesome place to wheel.
You should double think about adding skid plates. One of the best investments I have made on mine.
If I wheeled more technical rock trails, I could see the benefits. For now, the stock setup is working fine.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor i agree completely. I use the oil/trans skid from M.O.R.E. in aluminum to cover vulnerable oil pan, trans and trans lines the rest is stock... and i wheel very technical rock stuff. best advice is to also get Rusty's Off Road rear frame side lower control arm skids... must have for the gladiator!
Me here agonizing over trying to find the cheapest Glad in US and I realize you have two?! 😂 I mean...its for the job content right? Great Vid as always. Awesome to see the kids enjoying the "break" from wheeling (pun intended). Take care.
It’s sort of a strange story how I ended up with two. My wife thinks it’s silly as well.
Thanks Ali. I’d love to see a video about stock JT rubicon doing the rubicon trail
I know it can be done, but I don’t want to be the guy that does it! 😂
Watch DED where Dave takes a stock 3/4 ton chevy lwb over the Rubicon and you will get a taste of low and long wheeling 🙂
@@chavez4lsuable I was actually texting with Dave yesterday. He’s a great driver. They did a great job with DED.
Great video…as usual! Thx!
Great video as usual. Thank you
people greatly under estimate how capable the stock rock sliders are. You need to be in between cliffs to benefit from upgraded sliders that go up right underneath the doors
I got a TJ for my wife. It’s the best trade I’ve ever made! 👍😃
LOL
😂
I made it the whole way with both taillights in-tact!!
Nice! I wasn’t so lucky. 😂
Great video!
Teraflex has a kit that relocates the rear sway bar and gets it fully out of the way.
Thanks. I'll have to check that out!
Great recommendations mate!
We've had some fun times on The Trail
Thats a great run down of your trip. Im not up to speed on the Gladiators specs but what does the Mits set up do to your GVW? Curious about how the frame stands up to those beds. Ive watched a lot of the Aussie about stretches and GVW upgrades etc. Great truck and great videos!
The tray and bed together weigh around 750 pounds. I’m guessing I removed around 350 pounds (maybe more) pulling the stock bed, rear bumper, corner guards, and stock receiver hitch. I haven’t done anything to reinforce the frame, but it is something I’ve looked into. I do have a full-float rear axle and high-capacity springs, so the load carrying portion of those areas are fine. When it’s loaded down with gear (and the spare on the back) I’m easily nearing or possibly exceeding the original payload numbers.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor I see. Great build man. Fine looking ride!
Great content ..how far are you from Uwharrie ?im located in Raleigh nc
I live in Wilmington. So, it’s a little over three hours from my house to the outpost.
Ali. Love the evolution of this rig. What amber lights are you running on the front?
Thank you! They are 7-inch driving lights from GG Lighting. Those are covers that come with the lights. You can swap them out for clear and green as well.
Ali thanks for the recap video. Any more thoughts on 72.5 vs 68.5 was axles? I’m about to copy your build with an inch more lift and would like the more narrow wheel base. Is the width worth being forced to run 5.5bs?
I still like the 72.5’s. It drove so nice even without the hydro assist. It always feels very stable as well. I’m going to swap in 4.5 inch springs at some point. Everything else, I am very happy with.
Thanks a lot for the quick reply. Love this series as well.
I know you are asking Ali but I like the idea of the wider axles with more backspacing to get you the same track width. It will be easier to steer and less stress on the ball joints. And if you want it wider in the future it is easier to change wheels than get new axles.
Harry thanks a ton for the info as well and also thanks for the content. You guys at DL are badass. Yeah may as well go wide and mask it with higher BS. You guys rock.
Thanks for the quality video and information! I do have a question though that you might know. Lately when I turn my gladiator left or right it feels like gravel and makes a squeaky rubber sound. Seems to just be getting worse. It sort of feels like trying to make a tight turn when in 4 low. The gravel feel is felt in the steering wheel. I’ve checked the fluid level and it’s full. Any suggestions?
I would start with looking at the ball joints, then make your way out to the wheel bearings. The ball joints are a common wear point on the Gladiator more so than the tie-rod ends and unit bearings.
What roof rack are you running on the cab?
It’s from Ujoint Off-road.
Do u have 2 gladiators
Yes. I do. My wife thinks it’s ridiculous as well. I swear there’s a good story to why (and a way I justify it!). 😂
Will you ever run the Rubicon with the cab on the gladiator? I'd like to see that.
It's possible. It's just a really long drive and time commitment. Not sure when it would happen.