thanks you actual video helped me decide to go for 5.13 while every other video on youtube was horrible and no information at all. this told me the pull and acceleration and use and tire size and all of that which made it very clear especially with the acceleration test time was cherry on top. Bless you.
Great video! wish more people would make videos likes this, it was all about you're experience and how it was what you liked and what worked for you and what didn't, not "this is the only way to gear a jeep" keep it up!
You hit the nail on the head. All about the weight and philosophy of use. JLUR here wearing bumpers, winch, sliders, skids and 39" KM3's on beadlocks in Western NC. I went with 5.13's and couldn't be happier with how it drives now.
Great Video. When I was doing my research I contacted Yukon and G2 - they both recommended 5.13s - I have to spoken to countless other drivers of Wranglers and some say that 4.88 you go in and out of 8th a lot. I opted for 5.13 on my 2018 JLU Sahara 2.0T Hybrid, I am averaging 18/20 as long as I don't go over 65mph once I go over the mileage tanks to around 14-16mpg --- I have no regrets and from my research 5.13s rev +200rpm higher then 4.88s at any given speed or gear.
@@efibendor1 still saving up brother but now I'm second guessing myself I have 37 x 13.50. Ridge grappler and haven't even felt then need to re gear at all
Largest midsize cab, smallest bed, no optional bed lengths or cab configurations, crazy long wheelbase, marketed to potential Wrangler buyers, not pickup buyers, any wonder it hasn’t been a sales success? Least “perfect” pickup available, actually;( and a removable top virtually no one in this market segment desires. Mostly a “lifestyle” vehicle for someone who doesn’t need a pickup. Also, it has no commercial applications, besides the fact it is over 6,000lbs GVWR;(
Perfect American pickup? Not really. It’s an ok offroad vehicle in this configuration. It’s an 1/8 ton truck. Towing capacity isn’t great. The motor isn’t great for towing either. As a self contained overlander, it’s good. As an overall pickup, get a Dodge Ram.
I'm in south carolina and I went with 513 with the 37s . I commute a good bit back and forth from work. 2008 4 door wrangler rubicon. I seem to be pretty satisfied so far.
Just bought a 2022 gladiator altitude with the 3.6z installing a 3.5” lift on 37x12.5x17 iron man’s. I drive city with a decent bit of stop amd go to work but I also do a decent bit of highway running and also pull my 20’ bay boat around… I went with 5.13s and hope I made the right choice.. I went from a Duramax to a 6 cylinder jeep so towing is just way different and taking some getting use too
So I have a JT Rubicon and a RTT, I did a 3.5 inch jks jkrawl lift with Mickey Thompson Baja Legend MTZ tires. I decided to go with 5:13 gears because of the weight and crawl ratio.
Good rundown for sure. Originally I installed 4.88s in our Gladiator and it did fine with what we have on it, similar build to yours, and did better in the highway for sure. As soon as we decided to pull a small camper tho, decided to go to 5.38s, which made a big difference. One thing about the advantek diffs I've noticed is they seem to set up a lot easier compared to some of the older Dana axles.
I put 4.88s in my TJ and it has great power and response off road and around town. The highway is another story 65mph @2500rpm isnt great for mileage but it works. I wont be doing 90 down I95 for sure lol Just wave when you pass me
I left Wilmington 5 years ago. Seeing what looks to be old river road or the way to Shalotte. I’ve got 4:88 gears on 37x12.5x17 Baja bosses in my 1ton swapped Dakota. Now, my TJ is running 5:38s on same tire in a 40. I live in south west NM and get a lot of elevation and I do a lot of crawling. Nice rig man.
Great eye. That's River Rd. Also, a solid-axle swapped Dakota is one of my bucket-list trucks. I built a solid-axle Durango on Rockwell axles years ago. Such a fun rig. I tried to find a double cab Dakota with the 5.9, but they were Unicorns.
Great informative video man! I specifically got 4.10s with my Sport because I went with 35s in a Baja MTZ tire. Ill probably do the 5.13 when I go with a bigger lift and get 37s but thats because I do load mine down a bit more.
Good info on gearing. I grew up in Wilmington, you should have seen the places we wheeled in the 80's. Lots of sand pits along river road and trails around Pine Valley. I was rolling in a 71 Bronco then!
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor I rode a dirt bike from Long Leaf Hills all the way to the CB bridge by only crossing roads and riding trails. I had to buy gas at a store to get back home. Way too much development since then!
I’ve ran 3:73s for 12,000 miles on 37s, doesn’t really bother me, I run up too 80mph, I already have 4:88s waiting for install, I just don’t see where I’d need 5:13s in Florida
What kind of MPGs do you get at 80mph and what’s your rpms up there? I’m coming from a JKU on 37s and 4.88s and I sat at 2700 rpms at 70mph and only got about 15.5mpgs which is trash. I want to run 37s on the stock gladiator 4.10s and still be able to go 80mph without dropping to 10mpgs. I feel like going numerically high on gearing will cause me to be like my JKU all over again.
Hello great video! I have 2 questions. Is there a price difference between the two? Is one ⚙️ more expensive than the other? Last which set would give you the best gas mileage?
No real price difference between the two. Going 4.88 should give you better fuel economy with all things being equal. However, there’s a lot of variables to that. For what it’s worth, if I had to do it again, I would go 5.13.
Only the Rubicon and Max Tow have the beefier wide D44 axles. The regular Sport and Overland have the standard D44. All JTs have D44 front and rear, but there is a difference in D44 axles.
There are most certainly variances. In fact, the Mojave and diesel versions have their own uniqueness as well. However, the aftermarket gear sets are the same for all of the axles. That was more my point with the comment in the video.
I don’t understand how so many people get such terrible mpg in these gladiators, especially in flat areas. Hmm 🤔 Mine was always 20.X mpg stock 4.10’s and 33’ Falken MTs. On trails it would dip to 16-17 for a day or 2 and creep back up to normal 20.X. This is in Northeast TN and Western NC, which is hilly and mountainous. I’ve been on 37’s now for like 600 miles and I’m still getting 18.5-19.3 or so mpg… recalibrated jeep to the new tire size. Still 4.10’s. I went on Old NC 105 in NC which is a forest road. It went to 16mpg. 2 days later I’m back up to 19 again.
That's impressive. I've never seen anything close to 20 mpg. This Jeep is now on 40's with 1-ton axles and 5.38 gears. It averages around 13 mpg. I have another Rubicon Gladiator on 38's (stock 4.10 gears for now), that averages around 14.5.
Asking for your opinion......I have an Ecodiesel Gladiator with the AEV 3" lift and riding on 37"s. I do not have a winch, but plan to get one and I do not overland or tow so it's not heavily weighed down with stuff. What's your opinion on regearing the Ecodiesel to 4.88 gearing?
Hello from Wilmington, NC as well. Great video. I bought one of the first Gladiators in 2019 (Launch Edition) and spend most my time around Monkey Junction. Been planning my upgrade to 37s, so this video was very useful. See you around town.
This was my concern. I also have a JLUR on 37s with the 6 spd manual. I considered going 4.88s but have some folks recommending 5.13s since it's a manual.
@@rudyrivera2964 that’s what I’m trying to figure out I have a 22 gladiator 6mt and I find if the 4.88 brings it back to stock I’ll go with 5.13 s for sure. I found the stock 33s was pretty gutless. Now I’m running 37 ko2 s and I’d like alittle more grunt than stock
I also live in Wilmington 28411. I am actually in the middle of doing a 6.4 / 8 speed swap on my 2011 JKU with Spicer 44's and 5.13 gears with 38's so it will be interesting to see where the RPM and mileage fall.
Small world! That sounds like an awesome swap! I'm getting a little over 13mpg with my 392 JL on 35s with 4.56 gears. Crazy good power, but the fuel economy, not so much.
@@DrivingLine After seeing the price of the 392 JL I decided to do the swap. I had a Brute with a Hemi and love the performance. My Gladiator is next on the list for the Hemi but I think that this time I will send it to Rubitrux.
Great video. I’m running 37”s on my gladiator sport, I just use it for work in Sacramento ca. Lots of fwy driving. What gears would you recommend. Thank you
I have a manual transmission, and Because I couldn't afford a Rubicon I was punished with 3.73s. I'm running stock tires and get fantastic fuel economy. That said the truck imo desperately needs 4.10 just with the stock wheels. Pulling a trailer I never leave 4th gear. On the road empty, I'm always hunting gears. Bone stock. Always get more gearing than you think you need, unless you just mall crawl.
I have the 37's, a 3.5 inch lift and consistently get 17 to 18 miles per gallon. I still have the original 410 in my Gladiation Rubicon. I don't see any reason to switch yet. Oh yeah... and the rock crawling is awesome!
@@EDubiton lol, no, I consistently get 17 to 18 driving all over Utah and Arizona. Did you recalibrate your computer in your Gladiator to compensate for the larger tires? I did.
@@EDubiton I'm not sure then. Something is definitely different, because I assure you I'm telling the truth. My friend has the same setup and he's getting similar fuel mileage also.
Great video and helped me understand things quite a bit more. I have a question though, so if I plan on carrying a decent amount of gear and will have long highway trips, riding on 37's, would 5.13's be better suited for that? My average speed around town driving is 55-65, I'd like to comfortably maintain 70-75 on the highway.
I have a 2020 Rubi Glad exactly like your Gator one and plan a future supercharger or V8 swap in the future with 38” tires and extra weight like extra gas tank and full under armor etc. Would a 5:13 now be a better 1 time upgrade? I’m new to 4x4 ownership, but plan to overland and do occasional rock crawling. I live in Minneapolis area, not any mountains.
If 38s are in your future, I would for sure go 5.13. Not sure I would go with a numerically higher gear if you think something as drastic as a V8 swap is in the cards. The new Jeep Wrangler 392 comes with 3.73 gears from the factory for a 33-inch-tall tire. A V8 really changes what these platforms needs significantly.
@@DrivingLine My 38’s are currently being installed this week with a 3.5” Clayton Overland lift kit. I decided to keep the V-6 and will go with the 5:13’s per your recommendation. Thanks for all the great advice. Been a subscriber for a while now and really enjoy the content.
So I’m trying to figure some mileage. I want to keep my mpg as high as possible. How is your mileage now, 4.88’s and your 37’s compared to when it was stock? Highway basically. And I really enjoy your videos. Very well done and lots of info….thanks
Thank you. My best tank has been 18.5. For most city/hwy mix I get between 16-17mpg. Once you get over 70 on the highway, the economy really drops. I put 35s on the Jeep the first week I had it, so it's hard for me to compare to stock.
Great video. I have a 21 Gladiator Mojave wit a 1” space lift on 35x11.5x17s on the factory wheels. Current factory 4.10s which runs ok. Just got a 3500# camper and only great into 5th gear on the level but power ok with the RpMs up. Looking to regear and questioning 456 or 488. This is my daily driver as well. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Note I like in PA with hills. Thanks
Nitro is making a 4.30 gear just for the diesel. I'm thinking that's going to be the popular choice for those with 37s looking to keep those great fuel economy numbers.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor Rebel Off-Road Wrote me a quote for 5.38 as well but I’m watching people using stock 3.73 with the diesel and 40’s and holding 8th gear so it’s getting a bit mind boggling.
I have a 2018 JL 2.0 LT 4-Cyl turbo. I bought 37s and haven’t re geared them yet. You think I should go to 4.88s? I noticed my acceleration has took a hit based on the 37s I recently added. Btw great video
Really enjoy your videos, loved the one on 37s and 392. Planning on ordering a 24 Rubicon with 35s, 3.6L, will put on roof top tent and maybe tow a couple of times a year. Should I go with the 4.56 or get 4.88 option from factory?
I had a built YJ years ago. The inline six had great low end torque, but struggled at higher RPMs. If you have the manual, 5.13 will be fine. That ratio will still work with the automatic, but you are going to rev pretty high on the highway.
Okay tks to start off. We live at sea lvl, but go up mountains, rough off road, will have 37s with 3 inch lift about. big bumper, winch and will go on road trips overlanding. With that said will 4.88 cut it or better to just go 5.13 ? next wil they be compatible with the existing lockers. ?
Great video...jeep engineers were being lazy putting a high revving, poor low end torque 3.6 motor in the jlu wrangler and gladiator. It absolutely deserves a 5.3 or 5.7 liter v8 with alot more low end power.
@Phillip Connolly The 392 in a wrangler is overkill IMHO and $80k+ for it deters the vast majority of buyers. The 5.7 hemi would still be a huge upgrade over the 3.6...make it a $5k motor upgrade option. The diesel would be great if it weren't for the restrictions. With the restrictions, the motor lifespan has likely been reduced from a potential million mile powerplant down to 200k miles.
Wilmington nice place to be use to live in Hampstead and Ogden in early 2000 but crazy how population has in 20 year has increase when I'm down I travel from cb and TI mostly hang out on the coast
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor when I lived there a 35 minute drive from cb to TI now takes over an hour that's taking back roads to avoid traffic now you really can't avoid it
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor keep up the good content I enjoy the videos I've been in and out of jeeps, owned em for 14yrs it isn't the whole wheeling part I enjoy it's having a vehicle that I can drop the top or take off the doors and if I need 4 wheel drive I can use it.
@@todhollandsworth4371 It's really amazing how much the town has changed. Equally impressive how much better the new Jeeps are than the old in regards to comfort and practicality. Thanks for the note!
I'm usually driving 70-80 on the highway regardless of the speed limit LOL. 99% of the time it's coz that's what everyone else is doing. If I just relax and cruise at 60-65 I start getting passed like crazy. I still haven't figured out whether I will get a Gladiator or Wrangler. I wanna get a Gladiator but in terms of being able to camp / overland I can sleep in the Wrangler stock where as with the Gladiator I have to get some aftermarket stuff in order to do it, unless I sleep in the back seat but that doesn't seem very comfortable at all. lol. The other thing is how you can get the Wrangler with 35s and 4.56 or 4.88 gears from the factory. Gladiator isn't like that. Somehow I feel like a truck is the more practical vehicle, even though the Wrangler pretty much has the same storage capacity with the seats folded down. It's not quite "a truck"
I’ll say this. The Gladiator does almost everything better than a Wrangler in a practical sense (for me and my family at least). However, the Wrangler is definitely the more nimble off-road vehicle. Since this video, I’ve moved up to 60 series axles and 40 inch tall tires. I’ve driven this Jeep cross country twice and wheel it at all the time. It’s a lot of fun, but it’s a big rig to take on the trail compared to a Wrangler for sure.
Ok big question I’ve got a 22 JT rubicon. So will the tazer void my factory warranty? I’m looking to do 35s and regear. Btw great vid lots of info your nailed it. thanks Randall.
The Tazer isn't going to void your entire vehicle warranty. But, you don't want to keep it plugged in if you have to take the Jeep into the dealer for warranty work. I've had my Jeeps in a few times for some small defect issues (leaking hard top) and told them I had a tazer. My service writer didn't care. It might be a dealership by dealership basis.
I. was going with 4:88 but i live in a super windy place so i'm fighting a 15-25 mph wind everyday. So i think 5:13 will be a better choice for me How many RPM's did you gain with the 4:88 say at 70MPH
The Jeep is now on 40's with 1-ton axles and 5.38s. I don't remember the RPM at 70 unfortunately. I do think 5.13 is the better choice when wind is involved. These things struggle in a headwind.
Great information for gas engine. What about the Ecodiesel? I’m looking at going with 37’s but I am going to be towing a trailer. My stock gearing is 3.73. I have a ton of torque, even towing, in the stock set up. Any Ecodiesel’s with Mopar lift and 37’s?
Nitro gear offers a 4.30 and 4.63 now that work great with the diesel. I have a friend with a 4.30 and 37s on his diesel Gladiator and he’s very happy with it.
That’s simply not true. Most aftermarket covers actually create more aeration in the oil, which is way worse than a stock cover. There are some very informative videos on this topic. While a stock cover is not as durable for off-roading, they actually do a very good job at lubricating. If the aftermarket cover is well engineered and can hold more oil, that’s absolutely an improvement over stock. However, just adding more oil capacity isn’t enough to justify a new cover. The axles in this video have still have the stock covers and have been perfect.
I would go 5.13 or 5.29. (Assuming you are running a 37). The 5.29 will be great on the highway to keep you in power, but the 5.13 will be a better overall ratio for in town and trail riding. If you think you’ll be cruising at speeds over 65 consistently, I would lean towards the taller gear ratio.
I've been twice with it. I'm blanking on all of the names, but I know I've done Steel Bender, Hells Revenge, Behind the Rocks, Top of the World, Metal Masher, and Mashed Potato in it.
There's a real easy mathematical formula you can use to get the gearing you should use it's new desired tire size Multiplied by ORIGINAL gear ration Divided by ORIGINAL TIRE SIZE. Then, round up or down to the closest available gearing. Like my rig's formula was 37 x 4.56 /33 and came out 5.11. That was a no brainer to go to 5.13. Now, if I were going to 38s, or 40s, I would go 5.38. You could go 5.29, but who wants that? :) But with a bigger engine like a v8, or more powerful v6 4.88 would be just fine for 37s. But that is totally the owner's call.
You talk about the wrong thing like almost every gear guy talks about and it’s transmission gear numbers. That’s a minimal thing engine rpm is everything that’s where your horsepower is. 4:56 is the correct gear for 37s from stock on a gladiator. 4:88 ok go a size up. Anything bigger you don’t understand what you are doing
They put 4.56 gears in from the factory for 35’s on the Wrangler when you option the Xtreme Recon package. These engines do not make power low in the RPM scale. Going with a 4.56 gear with a 37 is a terrible idea. If anything, I would do 5.13 if I had to do it again.
This is seemingly forgetting that only the "Max Tow" optioned, and the "Rubicon" trim, have 4.10s from factory... Everyone else gets 3.7s or 3.8s, can't remember the exact number... With that said, quite a few guys in our jeep group rock 35's using the stock 3.7/3.8 gearing, and they've had zero issues, and zero complaints about power/mileage. But no one has higher than 35s atm with the exception of one guy who has 40s and 1 ton swapped axles.. so he's not really a fair comparison lol.
Jeep now includes 4.88 gears with manual transmission Wranglers on those that opt for the new Xtreme Recon package. On the automatic, they only go 4.56. Since this gear ratio is optimized for a 35, it would lead me to believe that you'll want to go with a 5.13 for your Gladiator if you are running a 37.
I have the eco diesel and run 37's with the stock 373 that came with it, my JT is a sport, I use it for work so always loaded up with tools, everyone says 456 gears...because diesel like low rpm's...but i feel like 488 would be better suited because i'm always loaded up, including bumpers,sliders smart cap canopy...ect is there any sites that explain the diesel configuration? Great video for gas version btw! Thx
I don’t know of any other sites building diesel Gladiators. Not off of the top of my head at least. It seems like anytime you load these things down, they really appreciate more gearing, that’s for sure.
I’m looking at buying a Gladiator’s that already has a Mopar lift and 37” KM3s, on Fuel Block 17x9” +1mm offset wheels. I’ve watched all you videos, and I’m real concerned if I’ll have rubbing issues offroad. I don’t know how to translate the different wheel size to your experience. If you could help shed some light. Thanks 🙏
If you are on the highway mostly, I would look at 4.88 or 5.13. The 392 has so much power, that it can pull fine at lower rpms. The new 392 Wrangler with the extreme recon package comes with 35s and 4.56 gears. From most accounts, it revs too high on the interstate and would be better suited with a 37/38. A 5.13 is going to give you great power-on-demand no matter the speed, but your highway RPMs will be a bit higher.
I’m torn between the two. I live in Phoenix Arizona and have a 2021 Overland with a 4.5inch lift with 37s. My current gears are 3.73. I commute about 50 miles round trip daily for work all highway at about 80 mph. Would you recommend 4.88s or 5.13s for this. I do hit some trails on flagstaff and Sedona but it is my daily. Much appreciated!
At those highway speeds, you will be best served with a 5.13. This will help it stay in eighth gear more effectively, which will ultimately give you better feel economy.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor Sorry, I should have rephrased my question. Would you choose 4.88's or 5.13's with the 37" TG and Borah wheel on a JK w/ 3.6 and auto, w/lots of highway as well? Thanks again!
@@ZephyrRandD I'm very happy with my 4.88s. For what I do with the Jeep, I think they are a great balance of fuel economy and power. Like I mention in the video, if you tow, live at a high elevation, or have a really loaded down Gladiator, 5.13s will be better.
@@ZephyrRandD I just realized I misread JK. I thought it was JT. If you are asking for the JK, I would go 5.13 all day long. It will rev a little higher, but the transmission will never hunt and you'll keep overdrive on the highway all the time. I had 5.13s and 37s in my 2013 JK for years and I loved it. Drove it to Moab and back (North Carolina) multiple times.
I’ve towed very little with this. I have a friend that tows his side-by-side pretty frequently and he’s on 37s as well. Based off of his experience and mine, I would recommend going with 5.13 or even higher if you are going to be towing frequently. These engines just don’t make a lot of power down low.
I have the JT Rubicon with the 3.6 as well. I am also moving to 37s, the only difference between your truck and mine is I have the 6 speed manual. Would that factor into your gear choice and if so how? Thanks
I believe Nitro Gear offers a 5.29. That’s what I would go with. I have family in Wendell and Wake Forest. I know what that beltway is like. These trucks have a hard time keeping overdrive above 70. The more gear the better for sure.
@@DrivingLine thanks. In Europe, apparently, there two main issues when setting up. Gears/lockers and suspension. I can see you got 3.0's but those are very pricey here. Trying to figure out the best way to go when I get mine.
I've been struggling with this decision. I do live at 5000 ft in the Sierra Nevada and I do tow. However the 3.6 needs to be able to shift into 4th for passing. It does Its best work at higher rpm. So I guess I still haven't made up my mind.
@@toddv364 where are you in the sierra? I would love to see you truck and maybe have you take me for a drive in it to help me decide. I'm in the Fish Camp /Oakhurst area.
There are a lot of similarities in that they are both Dana 44s. However, the rear axle suspension brackets are completely different on the Gladiator and depending on the model there are flange, thickness, and steering knuckle differences between the Wrangler and JT.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor So the Gladiator axles are somewhat stronger in certain areas. Would you say that the axles on the JL Wrangler and Gladiator are (much) better then the JK Wrangler?
@@dan.h210 that is correct. Technically, they’re supposed to be superior to the JK axles. My biggest combat to that would be the front axle disconnect. I’ve seen a few housings break in that area.
I have a 2021 Diesel 4dr Rubicon. Building it also with 37's. Looking at regearing from the stock 373's to 456's. RPM stock at 70 is around 1700 to 1800 RPM and I believe the 456's will put me around 1900 RPM at 70 MPH. What are your thoughts on this?
The diesel is a tough one as my experience with it in the JL and Gladiator is limited. I know for those running 40s and 42s, 5.38 gears with 1-ton axles has been the go-to. Nitro Gear is working on a 4.30 gear set aimed specifically at Diesel JL and Gladiator owners running 37s. That could be the perfect solution if you are shooting mostly for fuel economy. Going with a 4.56 or even a 4.88 will give you more power, but it will rev higher on the interstate of course. Nitro is making the effort of creating a new gear set just for the diesel, so the 4.30 is worth looking into. Hope that helps. - Ali
If you are sticking with the stock tire size, a 4.10 would be a big help. A 4.56 would be better for power, but your RPM's will be high on the interstate.
Question I’m new to the gladiator group. I have a 2020 Mojave came with 37’ tires and has 4.10 gears, with the tow package, so do I really need to re gear my Jeep? I don’t tow anything and it runs good on the highway and I’m in 8 gear stock lift and daily driver
I have a JT with 35 and 3.5” lift, with bed rack, rubicon bumper and winch and RTT. I’m getting Max 13 MPG at most. Number one: is this normal? Second: Can regearing give me more fuel economy? Thanks and appreciate your answers
I’m assuming you don’t have the factory 4.10 gears. If you did, you would probably be averaging closer to 16 miles per gallon. Changing differential gears will definitely help. For your set up, I would probably go with a 4.88 if you want power and 4.56 if you want better fuel economy.
@@DrivingLine first of all thanks for answering, secondly, I rely on Jeep to put 4.10 gear on Rubicon (I forgot to mention mine is Rubicon trim) So basically with 35”, 4.10 with Rubicon and some heavy overloading gears (bed rack, winch, steel bumper, RTT…) I get 12-13 as best One more think, when I drive the car to do all mods, I got 20 mpg from SF to LA. After mods, on the way back, I got dropped to 14, Beside re gear, do you think recalibrate the speedometer helps? Many thanks
I would definitely recalibrate if you haven’t. I use a Tazer JL Mini, but there are other modules that can do just tire calibration for less. I’ve spent years running 4.10s and 35s and never felt like I needed to regear, but I also live in the coastal plains. If I was still living in SoCal, I would go with 4.88 gears to have the passing power and to hold overdrive gears more easily.
Great video! Have a question you might can help answer. Running a Sport S Gladiator with 37x12.50R17’s with a 3.5in lift. Mileage went from 22mog on Hwy to 18mpg. This is my daily driver and the car we take road trips on. So a good mix of highway and around town. Would you recommend the 5.13 over 4.88 in that regard? Very similar setup to you, aftermarket front bumper and lift wheels and tires are the only thing done, don’t plan on overland racks or anything like that.
Going with the 4.88 should net you the best fuel economy if that is what you are after. With the 5.13, it will help a little more in town with MPG, but it will rev slightly higher on the highway. I live in the coastal plains and the 4.88s are a great fit for me. Also, I've never come close to 22 MPG! Even 18 MPG is way more that I average. I'm usually around 16.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor jeez, we are in North East GA going back and forth to TN I still have the 3.73s in it from the factory but just want my 8th gear back haha.
I think 35's and 4.88's would be fine. You're going to rev a little high on the highway, but not enough that it's going to make a significant difference compared to 4.56 gears.
If you really have it loaded down and you see a lot of highway speed over 65, I would not be scared to go 5.29. When I drove cross-country, mine had a tough time keeping overdrive at speeds over 70. For where I live and how light my Gladiator is, the 4.88s are great. However, every time I go to the mountains, you can tell that a higher gear would help. These engines make more power higher in the RPM. Your fuel economy will take a hit with a 5.29 over a 5.13, but you will always have good power.
What are you getting as far as fuel economy goes? My gladiator on 37x12.5 K02's is only getting.. 13-15. I feel like I may need to regear at this point.
On average, I get around 16mpg. My best tank with this setup has been 17.5 mpg. I do a fair amount of stop-and-go, which brings down my mileage a good bit.
@@DrivingLine Dang.. I wonder what's going on. I wouldn't consider myself a led foot by any means and I'm not in stop-and-go traffic that often. So I'm not sure what is happening. I've also got a Tazer in my rig, it's not 100% accurate I don't think. What setting did you set your tire size to? Mine wont let me do 37" on the dot, so I'm thinking my rig might be wrong at this point. I appreciate your response, you rock.
@@crixusjt Mine is set to just over 36 inches as that was the closest to what I measured it under the Jeep. Don't go by sidewall size. Measure it and and input that number.
@@adventuresbyknight9348 I would go with 5.13. I ran 5.13's and 37s for years on my 2013 JK and loved it. You will rev a little higher on the interstate with the 5.13, but it will keep overdrive in the mountains, which is great. It also feels amazing around town.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor okay awesome, thanks a million for the Insight. Can’t wait to Re-Gear. The 4.10’s have been doing just fine thus far cuz its a Weekend/2nd Vehicle for me, but getting back some of the power especially on hills will be awesome
And this is why Jeep needs to stop putting high-winding gas V6's into their "off road" vehicles. If they must, due to packaging or assembly-line constraints, at least take a page out of Ford's book and turbo the V6 to spool up quickly down low. Bring the legendary Straight-6 4.0L back with modern updates; aluminum block and head, composite intake, direct injection, intelligent DOHC with VVT, and revised accessories (water pump, charging, power steering, ect). Offer this with a stout manual 6 speed or this Gladiator's 8 speed and you'd have a truck I'd finally look at buying brand new. Otherwise, I'm sticking with the XJ.
![70 mph - Jeep Gladiator gas mileage update: 5.13 Yukon gears, 37s [ep 20]](/img/1.gif)
thanks you actual video helped me decide to go for 5.13 while every other video on youtube was horrible and no information at all. this told me the pull and acceleration and use and tire size and all of that which made it very clear especially with the acceleration test time was cherry on top. Bless you.
Great video! wish more people would make videos likes this, it was all about you're experience and how it was what you liked and what worked for you and what didn't, not "this is the only way to gear a jeep" keep it up!
You hit the nail on the head. All about the weight and philosophy of use. JLUR here wearing bumpers, winch, sliders, skids and 39" KM3's on beadlocks in Western NC. I went with 5.13's and couldn't be happier with how it drives now.
Great Video. When I was doing my research I contacted Yukon and G2 - they both recommended 5.13s - I have to spoken to countless other drivers of Wranglers and some say that 4.88 you go in and out of 8th a lot. I opted for 5.13 on my 2018 JLU Sahara 2.0T Hybrid, I am averaging 18/20 as long as I don't go over 65mph once I go over the mileage tanks to around 14-16mpg --- I have no regrets and from my research 5.13s rev +200rpm higher then 4.88s at any given speed or gear.
Well that sucks. I go over 65mph a lot. The interstate speed here is 80mph. Maybe it’s time to buy a tow vehicle.
I was waiting for someone to do a video on gears, this helped alot I'm going to use 5.13 on my gladiator for towing aspect 😎👏
Did you do it? How does it tow after the regear?
@@efibendor1 still saving up brother but now I'm second guessing myself I have 37 x 13.50. Ridge grappler and haven't even felt then need to re gear at all
@@Jfigureitout did you end up regearing? If so what did you choose? And what's your fuel economy like with or without regearing? Thanks
This is a Perfect American pickup 🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🔥🔥🔥Thanks, great content!
I agree! Thank you.
Largest midsize cab, smallest bed, no optional bed lengths or cab configurations, crazy long wheelbase, marketed to potential Wrangler buyers, not pickup buyers, any wonder it hasn’t been a sales success? Least “perfect” pickup available, actually;( and a removable top virtually no one in this market segment desires. Mostly a “lifestyle” vehicle for someone who doesn’t need a pickup. Also, it has no commercial applications, besides the fact it is over 6,000lbs GVWR;(
@@JeepCherokeeful ok DeBorah 🙄
@@JeepCherokeeful you must own a ford
Perfect American pickup? Not really. It’s an ok offroad vehicle in this configuration. It’s an 1/8 ton truck. Towing capacity isn’t great. The motor isn’t great for towing either. As a self contained overlander, it’s good. As an overall pickup, get a Dodge Ram.
I'm in south carolina and I went with 513 with the 37s . I commute a good bit back and forth from work. 2008 4 door wrangler rubicon. I seem to be pretty satisfied so far.
Just bought a 2022 gladiator altitude with the 3.6z installing a 3.5” lift on 37x12.5x17 iron man’s. I drive city with a decent bit of stop amd go to work but I also do a decent bit of highway running and also pull my 20’ bay boat around… I went with 5.13s and hope I made the right choice..
I went from a Duramax to a 6 cylinder jeep so towing is just way different and taking some getting use too
So I have a JT Rubicon and a RTT, I did a 3.5 inch jks jkrawl lift with Mickey Thompson Baja Legend MTZ tires. I decided to go with 5:13 gears because of the weight and crawl ratio.
Definitely gonna go with 5.13’s!!!
Good rundown for sure. Originally I installed 4.88s in our Gladiator and it did fine with what we have on it, similar build to yours, and did better in the highway for sure. As soon as we decided to pull a small camper tho, decided to go to 5.38s, which made a big difference. One thing about the advantek diffs I've noticed is they seem to set up a lot easier compared to some of the older Dana axles.
I’m 😲 f
Ali, you are the man! Some of my favorite, informative videos on the Gladiator. 👌
Thank you!
I don't own a Jeep but a 1997 Land Cruiser 80 and this is definitely applicable to me. Very informative.
40th anniversary? Sell me it 😩
@@randyabogadie9509 Collector's Edition.. 3x locked 😀
I put 4.88s in my TJ and it has great power and response off road and around town. The highway is another story 65mph @2500rpm isnt great for mileage but it works. I wont be doing 90 down I95 for sure lol
Just wave when you pass me
Always so informative and great attention to detail when explaining thanks so much for all the info!
I left Wilmington 5 years ago. Seeing what looks to be old river road or the way to Shalotte. I’ve got 4:88 gears on 37x12.5x17 Baja bosses in my 1ton swapped Dakota. Now, my TJ is running 5:38s on same tire in a 40. I live in south west NM and get a lot of elevation and I do a lot of crawling. Nice rig man.
Great eye. That's River Rd. Also, a solid-axle swapped Dakota is one of my bucket-list trucks. I built a solid-axle Durango on Rockwell axles years ago. Such a fun rig. I tried to find a double cab Dakota with the 5.9, but they were Unicorns.
Great informative video man! I specifically got 4.10s with my Sport because I went with 35s in a Baja MTZ tire. Ill probably do the 5.13 when I go with a bigger lift and get 37s but thats because I do load mine down a bit more.
Ali, I drive a 4Runner but still thoroughly enjoyed this video; great content.
Thank you!
Man, love your presentation style. Great discussion and nicely balanced. Thanks 5.13’s are in my cart!
Thank you.
Good info on gearing. I grew up in Wilmington, you should have seen the places we wheeled in the 80's. Lots of sand pits along river road and trails around Pine Valley. I was rolling in a 71 Bronco then!
I remember the River Road trails very well! On any given Sunday it would be packed with people around the main “pit” area.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor I rode a dirt bike from Long Leaf Hills all the way to the CB bridge by only crossing roads and riding trails. I had to buy gas at a store to get back home. Way too much development since then!
I’ve ran 3:73s for 12,000 miles on 37s, doesn’t really bother me, I run up too 80mph, I already have 4:88s waiting for install, I just don’t see where I’d need 5:13s in Florida
What kind of MPGs do you get at 80mph and what’s your rpms up there? I’m coming from a JKU on 37s and 4.88s and I sat at 2700 rpms at 70mph and only got about 15.5mpgs which is trash. I want to run 37s on the stock gladiator 4.10s and still be able to go 80mph without dropping to 10mpgs. I feel like going numerically high on gearing will cause me to be like my JKU all over again.
Hello great video!
I have 2 questions.
Is there a price difference between the two? Is one ⚙️ more expensive than the other?
Last which set would give you the best gas mileage?
No real price difference between the two. Going 4.88 should give you better fuel economy with all things being equal. However, there’s a lot of variables to that. For what it’s worth, if I had to do it again, I would go 5.13.
Only the Rubicon and Max Tow have the beefier wide D44 axles. The regular Sport and Overland have the standard D44. All JTs have D44 front and rear, but there is a difference in D44 axles.
There are most certainly variances. In fact, the Mojave and diesel versions have their own uniqueness as well. However, the aftermarket gear sets are the same for all of the axles. That was more my point with the comment in the video.
what is the difference other than wide?
@@archietamayo76 they are not as narrow ?
What axles are in the Willy's models?
I don’t understand how so many people get such terrible mpg in these gladiators, especially in flat areas. Hmm 🤔 Mine was always 20.X mpg stock 4.10’s and 33’ Falken MTs. On trails it would dip to 16-17 for a day or 2 and creep back up to normal 20.X. This is in Northeast TN and Western NC, which is hilly and mountainous. I’ve been on 37’s now for like 600 miles and I’m still getting 18.5-19.3 or so mpg… recalibrated jeep to the new tire size. Still 4.10’s. I went on Old NC 105 in NC which is a forest road. It went to 16mpg. 2 days later I’m back up to 19 again.
That's impressive. I've never seen anything close to 20 mpg. This Jeep is now on 40's with 1-ton axles and 5.38 gears. It averages around 13 mpg. I have another Rubicon Gladiator on 38's (stock 4.10 gears for now), that averages around 14.5.
Great video! You explained it well!
Thank you.
Went with 4:88 in my JT Sport
Made a huge difference in drivability
Asking for your opinion......I have an Ecodiesel Gladiator with the AEV 3" lift and riding on 37"s. I do not have a winch, but plan to get one and I do not overland or tow so it's not heavily weighed down with stuff. What's your opinion on regearing the Ecodiesel to 4.88 gearing?
Nitro Gear makes a 4.63 gear ratio that's popular in the diesel community for those running 37s. That's most likely the direction I would go.
Hello from Wilmington, NC as well. Great video. I bought one of the first Gladiators in 2019 (Launch Edition) and spend most my time around Monkey Junction. Been planning my upgrade to 37s, so this video was very useful. See you around town.
Very cool! Small world. I live on near CB, so I’m sure I’ll see you around.
As of this moment mine is in the shop in southern Maryland getting re geared to 4:88
I have a 19 JLUR with 37's with 4:88 gears and a manual transmission. It runs like it did from the factory.
This was my concern. I also have a JLUR on 37s with the 6 spd manual. I considered going 4.88s but have some folks recommending 5.13s since it's a manual.
@@rudyrivera2964 that’s what I’m trying to figure out I have a 22 gladiator 6mt and I find if the 4.88 brings it back to stock I’ll go with 5.13 s for sure. I found the stock 33s was pretty gutless. Now I’m running 37 ko2 s and I’d like alittle more grunt than stock
I also live in Wilmington 28411. I am actually in the middle of doing a 6.4 / 8 speed swap on my 2011 JKU with Spicer 44's and 5.13 gears with 38's so it will be interesting to see where the RPM and mileage fall.
Small world! That sounds like an awesome swap! I'm getting a little over 13mpg with my 392 JL on 35s with 4.56 gears. Crazy good power, but the fuel economy, not so much.
@@DrivingLine After seeing the price of the 392 JL I decided to do the swap. I had a Brute with a Hemi and love the performance. My Gladiator is next on the list for the Hemi but I think that this time I will send it to Rubitrux.
Great video. I’m running 37”s on my gladiator sport, I just use it for work in Sacramento ca. Lots of fwy driving. What gears would you recommend. Thank you
I would go 5.13. The added gearing really helps on the interstate and doesn’t hurt you around town.
Thanks Ali! Great content Sir!
Thank you.
I have a manual transmission, and Because I couldn't afford a Rubicon I was punished with 3.73s. I'm running stock tires and get fantastic fuel economy. That said the truck imo desperately needs 4.10 just with the stock wheels. Pulling a trailer I never leave 4th gear. On the road empty, I'm always hunting gears. Bone stock. Always get more gearing than you think you need, unless you just mall crawl.
I have the 37's, a 3.5 inch lift and consistently get 17 to 18 miles per gallon. I still have the original 410 in my Gladiation Rubicon. I don't see any reason to switch yet. Oh yeah... and the rock crawling is awesome!
Same here. With the 8 auto, I really don’t think it’s bad at all.
I'm in the exact same setup and getting on average 11 to 13 mpg. do you only drive downhill?
@@EDubiton lol, no, I consistently get 17 to 18 driving all over Utah and Arizona. Did you recalibrate your computer in your Gladiator to compensate for the larger tires? I did.
@@STACYBURK I did using the Tazer mini JL
@@EDubiton I'm not sure then. Something is definitely different, because I assure you I'm telling the truth. My friend has the same setup and he's getting similar fuel mileage also.
Great video and helped me understand things quite a bit more. I have a question though, so if I plan on carrying a decent amount of gear and will have long highway trips, riding on 37's, would 5.13's be better suited for that? My average speed around town driving is 55-65, I'd like to comfortably maintain 70-75 on the highway.
Yes. I would go 5.13 for sure.
@@DrivingLine thanks for the help and the reply!
I have a 2020 Rubi Glad exactly like your Gator one and plan a future supercharger or V8 swap in the future with 38” tires and extra weight like extra gas tank and full under armor etc. Would a 5:13 now be a better 1 time upgrade? I’m new to 4x4 ownership, but plan to overland and do occasional rock crawling. I live in Minneapolis area, not any mountains.
If 38s are in your future, I would for sure go 5.13. Not sure I would go with a numerically higher gear if you think something as drastic as a V8 swap is in the cards. The new Jeep Wrangler 392 comes with 3.73 gears from the factory for a 33-inch-tall tire. A V8 really changes what these platforms needs significantly.
@@DrivingLine My 38’s are currently being installed this week with a 3.5” Clayton Overland lift kit. I decided to keep the V-6 and will go with the 5:13’s per your recommendation. Thanks for all the great advice. Been a subscriber for a while now and really enjoy the content.
So I’m trying to figure some mileage. I want to keep my mpg as high as possible. How is your mileage now, 4.88’s and your 37’s compared to when it was stock? Highway basically. And I really enjoy your videos. Very well done and lots of info….thanks
Thank you. My best tank has been 18.5. For most city/hwy mix I get between 16-17mpg. Once you get over 70 on the highway, the economy really drops. I put 35s on the Jeep the first week I had it, so it's hard for me to compare to stock.
@@DrivingLine thanks so much..!
Great video.
I have a 21 Gladiator Mojave wit a 1” space lift on 35x11.5x17s on the factory wheels. Current factory 4.10s which runs ok. Just got a 3500# camper and only great into 5th gear on the level but power ok with the RpMs up. Looking to regear and questioning 456 or 488. This is my daily driver as well. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Note I like in PA with hills. Thanks
I would go 4.88. The difference between 4.56 and 4.10 isn't enough to justify the gear change.
Thanks for the information!! What size wheels and what is your offset looks awesome!!! Bam
It’s the AEV Borah with +25mm offset.
Good video,
i wonder what would be good for the diesel, i get a solid 22mpg doing 80mph with medium+ load for camping.
Nitro is making a 4.30 gear just for the diesel. I'm thinking that's going to be the popular choice for those with 37s looking to keep those great fuel economy numbers.
@@DrivingLine Awesome, appreciate the response. keep the content coming!
Great Video I'm getting ready to buy some ProRock XD60's and trying to decide on the gears for the diesel & 40's?
Awesome! Based off feedback from a friend with 42s on his diesel Gladiator, I would go 5.38.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor Rebel Off-Road Wrote me a quote for 5.38 as well but I’m watching people using stock 3.73 with the diesel and 40’s and holding 8th gear so it’s getting a bit mind boggling.
@@geo5162 people seem to get away with it, but they sacrificing performance. I would go 5.38 all day long.
5:38s for sure.
I have a 2018 JL 2.0 LT 4-Cyl turbo. I bought 37s and haven’t re geared them yet. You think I should go to 4.88s? I noticed my acceleration has took a hit based on the 37s I recently added.
Btw great video
If you want the most acceleration back, go 5.13. If you are trying to balance out fuel economy and power, I would go 4.88.
Right on I appreciate it! My buddy was highly recommending me to re gear it lol my current gear ratio was set at 3.7s.
Great info sir! 👍
Thank you!
Really enjoy your videos, loved the one on 37s and 392. Planning on ordering a 24 Rubicon with 35s, 3.6L, will put on roof top tent and maybe tow a couple of times a year. Should I go with the 4.56 or get 4.88 option from factory?
I would go ahead and run the 4.88. The difference between the two gearsets is so minimal, you'll be better off with the 4.88 in the long run.
Any comment about 37" tires and 5:38 gearing for elevations above 6,000 feet in a 1995 Wrangler?
I had a built YJ years ago. The inline six had great low end torque, but struggled at higher RPMs. If you have the manual, 5.13 will be fine. That ratio will still work with the automatic, but you are going to rev pretty high on the highway.
What are your rpm's @ 70mph?
Excellent vid, thanks!
Just nuts to hear you mention Wilmington. 28409 here
Small world!
Nice I went 488 as well
Great video !
Thank you.
Okay tks to start off. We live at sea lvl, but go up mountains, rough off road, will have 37s with 3 inch lift about. big bumper, winch and will go on road trips overlanding. With that said will 4.88 cut it or better to just go 5.13 ? next wil they be compatible with the existing lockers. ?
I would go 5.13. Yes. You will be able to keep your stock lockers.
Great video...jeep engineers were being lazy putting a high revving, poor low end torque 3.6 motor in the jlu wrangler and gladiator. It absolutely deserves a 5.3 or 5.7 liter v8 with alot more low end power.
A V8 would be awesome. The gears really do help though.
I agree if jeep had the 5.7 hemi as option it would save all the re gearing headaches. Problem solved.
@Phillip Connolly The 392 in a wrangler is overkill IMHO and $80k+ for it deters the vast majority of buyers. The 5.7 hemi would still be a huge upgrade over the 3.6...make it a $5k motor upgrade option.
The diesel would be great if it weren't for the restrictions. With the restrictions, the motor lifespan has likely been reduced from a potential million mile powerplant down to 200k miles.
@@Strizzle81what restrictions?
Wilmington nice place to be use to live in Hampstead and Ogden in early 2000 but crazy how population has in 20 year has increase when I'm down I travel from cb and TI mostly hang out on the coast
It has grown wildly for sure. I grew up here.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor when I lived there a 35 minute drive from cb to TI now takes over an hour that's taking back roads to avoid traffic now you really can't avoid it
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor keep up the good content I enjoy the videos I've been in and out of jeeps, owned em for 14yrs it isn't the whole wheeling part I enjoy it's having a vehicle that I can drop the top or take off the doors and if I need 4 wheel drive I can use it.
@@todhollandsworth4371 It's really amazing how much the town has changed. Equally impressive how much better the new Jeeps are than the old in regards to comfort and practicality. Thanks for the note!
I'm usually driving 70-80 on the highway regardless of the speed limit LOL. 99% of the time it's coz that's what everyone else is doing. If I just relax and cruise at 60-65 I start getting passed like crazy.
I still haven't figured out whether I will get a Gladiator or Wrangler. I wanna get a Gladiator but in terms of being able to camp / overland I can sleep in the Wrangler stock where as with the Gladiator I have to get some aftermarket stuff in order to do it, unless I sleep in the back seat but that doesn't seem very comfortable at all. lol.
The other thing is how you can get the Wrangler with 35s and 4.56 or 4.88 gears from the factory. Gladiator isn't like that.
Somehow I feel like a truck is the more practical vehicle, even though the Wrangler pretty much has the same storage capacity with the seats folded down. It's not quite "a truck"
I’ll say this. The Gladiator does almost everything better than a Wrangler in a practical sense (for me and my family at least). However, the Wrangler is definitely the more nimble off-road vehicle. Since this video, I’ve moved up to 60 series axles and 40 inch tall tires. I’ve driven this Jeep cross country twice and wheel it at all the time. It’s a lot of fun, but it’s a big rig to take on the trail compared to a Wrangler for sure.
Ok big question I’ve got a 22 JT rubicon. So will the tazer void my factory warranty? I’m looking to do 35s and regear. Btw great vid lots of info your nailed it. thanks Randall.
The Tazer isn't going to void your entire vehicle warranty. But, you don't want to keep it plugged in if you have to take the Jeep into the dealer for warranty work. I've had my Jeeps in a few times for some small defect issues (leaking hard top) and told them I had a tazer. My service writer didn't care. It might be a dealership by dealership basis.
You don't need to regear for 35's.
I. was going with 4:88 but i live in a super windy place so i'm fighting a 15-25 mph wind everyday. So i think 5:13 will be a better choice for me How many RPM's did you gain with the 4:88 say at 70MPH
The Jeep is now on 40's with 1-ton axles and 5.38s. I don't remember the RPM at 70 unfortunately. I do think 5.13 is the better choice when wind is involved. These things struggle in a headwind.
Great information for gas engine. What about the Ecodiesel? I’m looking at going with 37’s but I am going to be towing a trailer. My stock gearing is 3.73. I have a ton of torque, even towing, in the stock set up. Any Ecodiesel’s with Mopar lift and 37’s?
Nitro gear offers a 4.30 and 4.63 now that work great with the diesel. I have a friend with a 4.30 and 37s on his diesel Gladiator and he’s very happy with it.
Hi , thanks for the video and all the information, just 1 question about how much you pay for it ?
It was right around 2k for everything I needed and installation.
Stock diff covers don’t allow you to add enough oil. You need more oil for larger tires and gears. You will burn up your gears.
That’s simply not true. Most aftermarket covers actually create more aeration in the oil, which is way worse than a stock cover. There are some very informative videos on this topic. While a stock cover is not as durable for off-roading, they actually do a very good job at lubricating. If the aftermarket cover is well engineered and can hold more oil, that’s absolutely an improvement over stock. However, just adding more oil capacity isn’t enough to justify a new cover. The axles in this video have still have the stock covers and have been perfect.
You’re right, what was I thinking.
The easiest way to figure out the new gear ratio is to first figure out your tire % increase. Then increase your gear ratio by the same %.
Thoughts on how you would approach regearing if you lived on the front range of CO (mtn pass driving) and had a manual transmission? Cheers
I would go 5.13 or 5.29. (Assuming you are running a 37). The 5.29 will be great on the highway to keep you in power, but the 5.13 will be a better overall ratio for in town and trail riding. If you think you’ll be cruising at speeds over 65 consistently, I would lean towards the taller gear ratio.
What trails did you hit in Moab with it? Trying to plan some without getting into the bed with departure angle.
I've been twice with it. I'm blanking on all of the names, but I know I've done Steel Bender, Hells Revenge, Behind the Rocks, Top of the World, Metal Masher, and Mashed Potato in it.
There's a real easy mathematical formula you can use to get the gearing you should use it's new desired tire size Multiplied by ORIGINAL gear ration Divided by ORIGINAL TIRE SIZE. Then, round up or down to the closest available gearing. Like my rig's formula was 37 x 4.56 /33 and came out 5.11. That was a no brainer to go to 5.13. Now, if I were going to 38s, or 40s, I would go 5.38. You could go 5.29, but who wants that? :) But with a bigger engine like a v8, or more powerful v6 4.88 would be just fine for 37s. But that is totally the owner's call.
I'm running km3 39x13.5 with some pretty heavy wheels so I'm thinking about going to 5:38s. Might get a travel trailer in the future.
@@TheHitSquadOffroad 5.38 would give your rig the fighting edge it's been asking for :)
You talk about the wrong thing like almost every gear guy talks about and it’s transmission gear numbers. That’s a minimal thing engine rpm is everything that’s where your horsepower is. 4:56 is the correct gear for 37s from stock on a gladiator. 4:88 ok go a size up. Anything bigger you don’t understand what you are doing
They put 4.56 gears in from the factory for 35’s on the Wrangler when you option the Xtreme Recon package. These engines do not make power low in the RPM scale. Going with a 4.56 gear with a 37 is a terrible idea. If anything, I would do 5.13 if I had to do it again.
This is seemingly forgetting that only the "Max Tow" optioned, and the "Rubicon" trim, have 4.10s from factory... Everyone else gets 3.7s or 3.8s, can't remember the exact number...
With that said, quite a few guys in our jeep group rock 35's using the stock 3.7/3.8 gearing, and they've had zero issues, and zero complaints about power/mileage. But no one has higher than 35s atm with the exception of one guy who has 40s and 1 ton swapped axles.. so he's not really a fair comparison lol.
I need this same video by someone with manual trans. I really can't figure out which one to get....I go back and forth.
Jeep now includes 4.88 gears with manual transmission Wranglers on those that opt for the new Xtreme Recon package. On the automatic, they only go 4.56. Since this gear ratio is optimized for a 35, it would lead me to believe that you'll want to go with a 5.13 for your Gladiator if you are running a 37.
I have the eco diesel and run 37's with the stock 373 that came with it, my JT is a sport, I use it for work so always loaded up with tools, everyone says 456 gears...because diesel like low rpm's...but i feel like 488 would be better suited because i'm always loaded up, including bumpers,sliders smart cap canopy...ect is there any sites that explain the diesel configuration? Great video for gas version btw! Thx
I don’t know of any other sites building diesel Gladiators. Not off of the top of my head at least. It seems like anytime you load these things down, they really appreciate more gearing, that’s for sure.
@@DrivingLine ya i couldn't agree more with you
I’m looking at buying a Gladiator’s that already has a Mopar lift and 37” KM3s, on Fuel Block 17x9” +1mm offset wheels. I’ve watched all you videos, and I’m real concerned if I’ll have rubbing issues offroad. I don’t know how to translate the different wheel size to your experience. If you could help shed some light. Thanks 🙏
That wheel should have 5 inches of backspacing. So, if it has the Mopar 2 inch lift and it’s a Rubicon, you should be fine.
Great video. I have a gladiator with 392 hemi swap with 37s. Would you recommend 5.13 or 5.38 when mostly doing hwy driving.about 75?
If you are on the highway mostly, I would look at 4.88 or 5.13. The 392 has so much power, that it can pull fine at lower rpms. The new 392 Wrangler with the extreme recon package comes with 35s and 4.56 gears. From most accounts, it revs too high on the interstate and would be better suited with a 37/38. A 5.13 is going to give you great power-on-demand no matter the speed, but your highway RPMs will be a bit higher.
@@DrivingLine thanks, what RPMs would hwy driving be with 5.13? Should I stick with 4.88?
I’m torn between the two. I live in Phoenix Arizona and have a 2021 Overland with a 4.5inch lift with 37s. My current gears are 3.73. I commute about 50 miles round trip daily for work all highway at about 80 mph. Would you recommend 4.88s or 5.13s for this. I do hit some trails on flagstaff and Sedona but it is my daily. Much appreciated!
At those highway speeds, you will be best served with a 5.13. This will help it stay in eighth gear more effectively, which will ultimately give you better feel economy.
When you changed your diff oil after the regear break in, did you get metal shavings? Specifically in the rear?
I wouldn't call them shavings, but I had little metal specs after the break-in. Normal amount for a re-gear.
Ali, what would you choose for the same wheel and tire on a 3.6 auto JKR? Lots of highway use as well. Thank you Sir!
If you are primarily doing highway, I would probably look at a Ridge Grappler. The wheels are great either way.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor Sorry, I should have rephrased my question. Would you choose 4.88's or 5.13's with the 37" TG and Borah wheel on a JK w/ 3.6 and auto, w/lots of highway as well? Thanks again!
@@ZephyrRandD I'm very happy with my 4.88s. For what I do with the Jeep, I think they are a great balance of fuel economy and power. Like I mention in the video, if you tow, live at a high elevation, or have a really loaded down Gladiator, 5.13s will be better.
@@ZephyrRandD I just realized I misread JK. I thought it was JT. If you are asking for the JK, I would go 5.13 all day long. It will rev a little higher, but the transmission will never hunt and you'll keep overdrive on the highway all the time. I had 5.13s and 37s in my 2013 JK for years and I loved it. Drove it to Moab and back (North Carolina) multiple times.
Have you towed with the set-up? I have a 4,000 lb camper trailer that I pull and wondering how it would do on the highway
I’ve towed very little with this. I have a friend that tows his side-by-side pretty frequently and he’s on 37s as well. Based off of his experience and mine, I would recommend going with 5.13 or even higher if you are going to be towing frequently. These engines just don’t make a lot of power down low.
What would you recommend with a rubicon manual on 37s setup? I live in in md but try to get out to pa Rausch creek and Aoaa when I can.
I would go 5.13.
Install cost? Front an back. I’m on 40s with 6.5 life. Recommendation I live in South Florida
Price varies, but plan on around 2k. If you’re in South Florida, I recommend Roco 4x4 in Miami.
I have the JT Rubicon with the 3.6 as well. I am also moving to 37s, the only difference between your truck and mine is I have the 6 speed manual. Would that factor into your gear choice and if so how? Thanks
I would go 5.13. That will make 6th gear more useful on the highway and give you more control on the trail.
Did you have to change out anything with your steering gear box
I ended up doing a hydraulic assist steering system on this from PSC Motorsports.
What gear do you recommend for 38s? I stay in Raleigh, NC. Daily drive and usually hit the highways at about 70-75mph on average
I believe Nitro Gear offers a 5.29. That’s what I would go with. I have family in Wendell and Wake Forest. I know what that beltway is like. These trucks have a hard time keeping overdrive above 70. The more gear the better for sure.
What lockers do you use? Factory? Ppl keep telling me gladiators are difficult to set up..
Stock Rubicon lockers. The shop I used didn’t seem to have an issue.
@@DrivingLine thanks. In Europe, apparently, there two main issues when setting up. Gears/lockers and suspension. I can see you got 3.0's but those are very pricey here. Trying to figure out the best way to go when I get mine.
My 5.38s are awesome😁
It wasn't clear to me what the downside(s) of over-gearing are--is it just fuel efficiency?
Primarily fuel efficiency since the rpm’s will be a bit higher on the interstate.
I've been struggling with this decision. I do live at 5000 ft in the Sierra Nevada and I do tow. However the 3.6 needs to be able to shift into 4th for passing. It does
Its best work at higher rpm. So I guess I still haven't made up my mind.
I would go 5.13. It’s a bummer to lose fourth gear for passing, but the other benefits will make it worth it.
I too live in the Sierras, going straight for the 5.13 . I tow a 4K gross trailer .
@@toddv364 where are you in the sierra? I would love to see you truck and maybe have you take me for a drive in it to help me decide. I'm in the Fish Camp /Oakhurst area.
What about someone who buys a Gladiator to daily drive and hunt out of with 37s?
If I had to do it again, I would go 5.13. The extra gearing helps with stop and go and keeps overdrive on the highway more easily.
Is the axles on the Gladiator different vs the regular Wrangler?
There are a lot of similarities in that they are both Dana 44s. However, the rear axle suspension brackets are completely different on the Gladiator and depending on the model there are flange, thickness, and steering knuckle differences between the Wrangler and JT.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor So the Gladiator axles are somewhat stronger in certain areas.
Would you say that the axles on the JL Wrangler and Gladiator are (much) better then the JK Wrangler?
@@dan.h210 that is correct. Technically, they’re supposed to be superior to the JK axles. My biggest combat to that would be the front axle disconnect. I’ve seen a few housings break in that area.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor Alright, thank's for answering!
Do the front and rear axles have the same gear ratio? When I change the rear gears do I have to change front too for the same ratio?
Correct. You need to gear both differentials at the same time.
What about the manual trans? Which gear set do you think would be better with 37s? This is for a JLUR 4 door.
I would go 5.13.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor Excellent, thanks!
5.38 and done.
I have a 2021 Diesel 4dr Rubicon. Building it also with 37's. Looking at regearing from the stock 373's to 456's. RPM stock at 70 is around 1700 to 1800 RPM and I believe the 456's will put me around 1900 RPM at 70 MPH.
What are your thoughts on this?
The diesel is a tough one as my experience with it in the JL and Gladiator is limited. I know for those running 40s and 42s, 5.38 gears with 1-ton axles has been the go-to. Nitro Gear is working on a 4.30 gear set aimed specifically at Diesel JL and Gladiator owners running 37s. That could be the perfect solution if you are shooting mostly for fuel economy. Going with a 4.56 or even a 4.88 will give you more power, but it will rev higher on the interstate of course. Nitro is making the effort of creating a new gear set just for the diesel, so the 4.30 is worth looking into. Hope that helps.
- Ali
Closer to 2100 rpm actually.
So what would be a good gear in a standard shift ? I live in the mountains 🏔
5.13 seem to be the go-to for most of my friends with manual JL Wranglers. That's likely the direction I would go as well.
I want more towing power for my 2020 JT Sport for pulling a small RV (about 3500 lbs) It has 3.73’s now. What would you recommend
If you are sticking with the stock tire size, a 4.10 would be a big help. A 4.56 would be better for power, but your RPM's will be high on the interstate.
@@DrivingLine no I’m running 35’s on 20 in rims. Planning on 37’s on 17’s in the near future though.
Question I’m new to the gladiator group. I have a 2020 Mojave came with 37’ tires and has 4.10 gears, with the tow package, so do I really need to re gear my Jeep? I don’t tow anything and it runs good on the highway and I’m in 8 gear stock lift and daily driver
If you are happy with power and it’s keeping 8th gear on the highway, then it’s perfectly fine to keep the stock gearing.
Ari now experiencing how 4.88 feels on the highway, if you could do it all over again would you of gone with 5.13’s?
If I lived out west, 5.13 would have been better. For the coastal plains where I live, the 4.88 gears are plenty.
I have a JT with 35 and 3.5” lift, with bed rack, rubicon bumper and winch and RTT. I’m getting Max 13 MPG at most. Number one: is this normal? Second: Can regearing give me more fuel economy?
Thanks and appreciate your answers
I’m assuming you don’t have the factory 4.10 gears. If you did, you would probably be averaging closer to 16 miles per gallon. Changing differential gears will definitely help. For your set up, I would probably go with a 4.88 if you want power and 4.56 if you want better fuel economy.
@@DrivingLine first of all thanks for answering, secondly, I rely on Jeep to put 4.10 gear on Rubicon (I forgot to mention mine is Rubicon trim)
So basically with 35”, 4.10 with Rubicon and some heavy overloading gears (bed rack, winch, steel bumper, RTT…) I get 12-13 as best
One more think, when I drive the car to do all mods, I got 20 mpg from SF to LA.
After mods, on the way back, I got dropped to 14,
Beside re gear, do you think recalibrate the speedometer helps?
Many thanks
I would definitely recalibrate if you haven’t. I use a Tazer JL Mini, but there are other modules that can do just tire calibration for less. I’ve spent years running 4.10s and 35s and never felt like I needed to regear, but I also live in the coastal plains. If I was still living in SoCal, I would go with 4.88 gears to have the passing power and to hold overdrive gears more easily.
@@DrivingLine many thanks Ali, I’ll give a try to either use tazer or probably take it to dealer to do it (if they do it)
Great video! Have a question you might can help answer. Running a Sport S Gladiator with 37x12.50R17’s with a 3.5in lift. Mileage went from 22mog on Hwy to 18mpg. This is my daily driver and the car we take road trips on. So a good mix of highway and around town. Would you recommend the 5.13 over 4.88 in that regard? Very similar setup to you, aftermarket front bumper and lift wheels and tires are the only thing done, don’t plan on overland racks or anything like that.
Going with the 4.88 should net you the best fuel economy if that is what you are after. With the 5.13, it will help a little more in town with MPG, but it will rev slightly higher on the highway. I live in the coastal plains and the 4.88s are a great fit for me. Also, I've never come close to 22 MPG! Even 18 MPG is way more that I average. I'm usually around 16.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor jeez, we are in North East GA going back and forth to TN I still have the 3.73s in it from the factory but just want my 8th gear back haha.
@@jacobgerrells8540 Putting gears in will definitely get that eight gear back. I feel like it makes it drive so much better.
How about 4.88 and 35's? Will that Rev to high on the highway?
I think 35's and 4.88's would be fine. You're going to rev a little high on the highway, but not enough that it's going to make a significant difference compared to 4.56 gears.
4 inch lift gladiator with 37s and a good amount gear and overland setup. Should I got 5.13 or 5.29
If you really have it loaded down and you see a lot of highway speed over 65, I would not be scared to go 5.29. When I drove cross-country, mine had a tough time keeping overdrive at speeds over 70. For where I live and how light my Gladiator is, the 4.88s are great. However, every time I go to the mountains, you can tell that a higher gear would help. These engines make more power higher in the RPM. Your fuel economy will take a hit with a 5.29 over a 5.13, but you will always have good power.
What are you getting as far as fuel economy goes? My gladiator on 37x12.5 K02's is only getting.. 13-15. I feel like I may need to regear at this point.
On average, I get around 16mpg. My best tank with this setup has been 17.5 mpg. I do a fair amount of stop-and-go, which brings down my mileage a good bit.
@@DrivingLine Dang.. I wonder what's going on. I wouldn't consider myself a led foot by any means and I'm not in stop-and-go traffic that often. So I'm not sure what is happening. I've also got a Tazer in my rig, it's not 100% accurate I don't think. What setting did you set your tire size to? Mine wont let me do 37" on the dot, so I'm thinking my rig might be wrong at this point. I appreciate your response, you rock.
@@crixusjt Mine is set to just over 36 inches as that was the closest to what I measured it under the Jeep. Don't go by sidewall size. Measure it and and input that number.
Does that all translate the same for a 2018 JKUR on 37’s in regards of upgrading to 4.88’s or 5.13’s?
For the 2018 and newer JL, yes.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor I’m talking about for a 2018 JK?
@@adventuresbyknight9348 I would go with 5.13. I ran 5.13's and 37s for years on my 2013 JK and loved it. You will rev a little higher on the interstate with the 5.13, but it will keep overdrive in the mountains, which is great. It also feels amazing around town.
@@Ali_Mansour_Editor okay awesome, thanks a million for the Insight. Can’t wait to Re-Gear. The 4.10’s have been doing just fine thus far cuz its a Weekend/2nd Vehicle for me, but getting back some of the power especially on hills will be awesome
And this is why Jeep needs to stop putting high-winding gas V6's into their "off road" vehicles. If they must, due to packaging or assembly-line constraints, at least take a page out of Ford's book and turbo the V6 to spool up quickly down low. Bring the legendary Straight-6 4.0L back with modern updates; aluminum block and head, composite intake, direct injection, intelligent DOHC with VVT, and revised accessories (water pump, charging, power steering, ect). Offer this with a stout manual 6 speed or this Gladiator's 8 speed and you'd have a truck I'd finally look at buying brand new. Otherwise, I'm sticking with the XJ.